Beauty | Skin camoufl age

Unlike cosmetic make-up, skin camoufl age does not involve

current trends or the ‘in look’, but the skilful application of camoufl age products to blend a particular area into surrounding skin and careful communication with the client to ensure the result is achievable, realistic and natural.

Building on the foundationsA keen eye for colour to detect the undertone of the skin and establish subtle changes in base shades is imperative in a skin camoufl age technician, as the main objective is to blend a specifi c area into the skin, balance out the skin tone and restore a natural vista to obtain an effective camoufl age and seal.

It is a common misperception that skin camoufl age requires similar skills to those used to apply foundation. Typically, skin camoufl age rarely involves an entire area; it is designed to cover a specifi c area and merge this to conceal the underlying patch. On occasions where the area is extensive it may be more prudent to apply the camoufl age over the entire area. Foundation does not have the same desirable qualities required of a camoufl age preparation, namely density of pigment, ability to resist water and remain waterproof, and durability to resist fading throughout the day. Nor will it necessarily provide the appropriate sunscreen protection necessary when covering an area of hypo-pigmentation for example.

However, the client’s usual make-up may be applied over and around the camoufl age area as required; in fact, as part of the aftercare advice, clients are often encouraged to emphasise and draw attention to another area or feature with cosmetic make-up to increase the overall effectiveness of the skin camoufl age.

Cover all the bases Skin camoufl age can be applied for a number of reasons – from temporarily covering an undesirable feature, such as a bruise or a tattoo when wearing a gown to a ball, to concealing a more specifi c disorder, such as a couperose area on the cheek. Other reasons can be more complex and may involve teaching the client to apply skin camoufl age techniques themselves, for instance to disguise healed scar tissue or pigment disorders, such as vitiligo. However, all instances demand a detailed and thorough

consultation, to take into account such considerations as:l whether the area is stable and free from

signs of infection, open wounds or infl ammation;

l any risk of bleeding from erythematose conditions;

l if you need to refer the client to a doctor/dermatologist; and

l whether you are qualifi ed to the correct level, experienced enough and confi dent to proceed.

These are only a few of the many considerations – there are too many to be fully explored in this one article.

Creating an illusion It is important that the client knows

that a physical change is not possible with skin camoufl age and there are limits on what can be achieved, but a reasonable illusion is often attainable.

Communication is key to fi nd out your client’s expectations and how realistic these are, and whether the skin camoufl age is being performed as a one-off application or one that

needs to be replicated by your client on a daily basis. Some clients will need empathy and understanding, others

will require patience as you teach them the techniques, and your body

language, tone of voice and approach are all important in this potentially life changing experience for your client.

When applied well, the area will be concealed and merge with the surrounding skin. The success of the end result depends upon factors including the size of the area affected, the degree of variation from the natural tone and the contours of the area to be covered. Sunken or raised areas pose more of a challenge, and lights and darks

may need reversing to create the illusion of fl atness. This may be too

complicated for your client to achieve every day and will depend upon their own skill at mastering the techniques.

The size of the area may also dictate if further enhancement techniques need to be incorporated. Fake moles, freckles or veins achieved through the application of make-up over the skin camoufl age may more successfully break up the area enabling it to blend into the surrounding limb. Male clients may also need to be taught how to stipple the growth of beard stubble in during the day using make-up over the skin camoufl age.

18 Issue 100 april 2012 InternatIonal therapIst www.fht.org.uk

The client had dilated capillaries (telangiectases) distributed over the cheeks and nose, resulting in a permanent couperose condition, which has been exacerbated by sunbathing and an outdoor lifestyle. The area is stable.

Reason for skin camoufl agethe client could not fi nd an appropriate foundation to conceal the capillaries and when she found a reasonable match, the make-up did not last. she does not wear make-up every day, but would like to be able to conceal the area to achieve a bare-faced look.

Case study B: Couperose area

All bases covered

Cheryl Cole provides an introduction to skin camoufl age and two case

studies to demonstrate some of its different applications

www.fht.org.uk InternatIonal therapIst Issue 100 april 2012 19

Skin camouflage | Beauty

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Cheryl Cole, vice-president of Fht, offers a VtCt level 3

Certificate in Camouflage make-up and nVQ Units (levels 2 and 3) at the Cheryl Cole academy t. 01487 830971www.cherylcoleacademy.co.uk

Cheryl will be giving a workshop on Colour theory at the Fht 50th training Congress and exhibition (saturday 7 July, 11.30am-12.45pm).

Skin camouflage is covered by the FHT for membership and insurance purposes with relevant prerequisites.

InternatIonal therapIst www.fht.org.uk

Case study B: Couperose area

The lower portion of the right leg was affected, with the vascular condition distributed over a wide area in a scattered formation. The area was stable and there had never been a report of – or concern for – complications, such as bleeding. The condition was diagnosed in childhood as a port wine stain.

Reason for skin camouflagethe client had always restricted herself to wearing trousers or long skirts due to being very conscious of the birthmark and she was interested in the freedom and possibilities that skin camouflage could provide, including choosing clothes without inhibition. a lesson was required to enable the client to apply the preparations herself.

Application constraints large area, scattered pattern, density of vascularity varied greatly, uneven texture.

Treatment requirementsl a simple plan that enabled the client to conceal the

area cost effectively.l skin tone selected to blend with the surrounding

area, preferably using one colour.l two layers would be required in some areas,

comprising a complementary shade to balance purple/blue colouration, overlaid by camouflage of matching skin tone.

Techniquesa complementary colour was applied to counterbalance the areas of prominent vascularity using a flat dense

brush to control the application and ensure the colour remained within the boundaries. Fine layers were stippled on until the underlying structures were concealed.

the client was shown how to apply the product using both a sponge and finger technique to see which was easiest for her to control, and she preferred to use her fingers. a skin tone was then applied to all areas using a gentle rolling or patting technique. although a single layer was applied to lesser affected areas, this was also extended to cover the complementary layers and provide continuous cover. due to the spread of the birthmark inevitably some areas of unaffected skin were covered, but this was kept to a minimum.

the edges of the skin tone were then blended into the surrounding skin, using an extremely light technique called feathering with a soft brush, which when applied correctly really makes the difference between the area standing out or successfully blending in.

to set the product, a generous layer of camouflage powder was applied, left for five minutes and then blotted with a damp cotton wool pad so as not to disturb the underlying camouflage product.

Resultthe client reported that the application lasted three to five days, even with regular showers. It took a couple of practices for her to become confident at achieving the desired effect within a sensible timescale. she does not apply the skin camouflage every day, but now has the option of wearing shorts, knee-length skirts or dresses with full confidence. the texture of the area has not changed, but the result is 80 per cent better, which the client is content with.

Case study A: Congenital erythmatose condition – port wine stain (naevus flammeus)

Application constraints small, healed scar on left cheek.

Treatment requirementsl a simple treatment plan that enabled the

client to conceal the area cost effectively.l one layer of camouflage to match skin tone.l skin tone selected to blend with the

surrounding area.

Techniquesthe client was shown how to apply the skin camouflage product using her fingers to apply

the skin tone with a gentle roll-patting technique that pressed the preparation into the skin in thin layers until the affected area was concealed. the product was set as in Case study a.

Resultthe client reported that the application lasted all day without the need for touching up and she has since bought the preparations to continue on a daily basis.

Right: Before

Far right: After

Above: Before Right: After

Further information and training National qualifications in skin camouflage are available at Level 2 and 3 within the beauty therapy sector.

If you are interested in working within this field as a specialism and the opportunities available, contact The British Red Cross (www.redcross.org.uk/What-we-do/Health-and-social-care/Social-support-in-the-UK/Skin-camouflage) or British Association of Skin Camouflage (www.skin-camouflage.net).