American Notes - Charles Dickens

7/31/2019 American Notes - Charles Dickens

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AmericanNotesforGeneralCirculationbyCharlesDickens

PrefacetotheFirstCheapEditionofAmericanNotes

ITisnearlyeightyearssincethisbookwasfirstpublished.Ipresentit,unaltered,intheCheapEdition;andsuchofmyopinionsasitexpresses,arequiteunalteredtoo.

MyreadershaveopportunitiesofjudgingforthemselveswhethertheinfluencesandtendencieswhichIdistrustinAmerica,haveanyexistencenotinmyimagination.Theycanexamineforthemselveswhethertherehasbeenanythinginthepubliccareerofthatcountryduringthesepasteightyears,orwhetherthereisanythinginitspresentposition,athomeorabroad,whichsuggeststhatthoseinfluencesandtendenciesreallydoexist.Astheyfindthefact,theywilljudgeme.Iftheydiscernanyevidencesofwrong-goinginanydirectionthatIhaveindicated,theywillacknowledgethatIhadreasoninwhatIwrote.Iftheydiscernnosuchthing,theywillconsidermealtogethermistaken.

Prejudiced,IneverhavebeenotherwisethaninfavouroftheUnitedStates.Novisitorcaneverhavesetfootonthoseshores,withastrongerfaithintheRepublicthanIhad,whenIlandedinAmerica.

Ipurposelyabstainfromextendingtheseobservationstoanylength.Ihavenothingtodefend,ortoexplainaway.Thetruthisthetruth;andneitherchildishabsurdities,norunscrupulouscontradictions,canmakeitotherwise.Theearthwouldstillmoveroundthesun,thoughthewholeCatholicChurchsaidNo.

IhavemanyfriendsinAmerica,andfeelagratefulinterestinthecountry.Torepresentmeasviewingitwithill-nature,animosity,orpartisanship,ismerelytodoaveryfoolishthing,whichisalwaysaveryeasyone;andwhichIhavedisregardedforeightyears,andcoulddisregardforeightymore.

LONDON,JUNE22,1850.

PrefacetotheCharlesDickensEditionofAmericanNotes

MYreadershaveopportunitiesofjudgingforthemselveswhethertheinfluencesandtendencieswhichIdistrustedinAmerica,had,atthattime,anyexistencebutinmyimagination.Theycanexamineforthemselveswhethertherehasbeenanythinginthepubliccareerofthatcountrysince,athomeorabroad,whichsuggeststhatthoseinfluencesandtendenciesreallydidexist.Astheyfindthefact,theywilljudgeme.Iftheydiscernanyevidencesofwrong-going,inanydirectionthatIhaveindicated,theywillacknowledgethatIhadreasoninwhatIwrote.Iftheydiscernnosuchindications,theywillconsidermealtogethermistakenbutnotwilfully.

Prejudiced,Iamnot,andneverhavebeen,otherwisethaninfavouroftheUnite

dStates.IhavemanyfriendsinAmerica,Ifeelagratefulinterestinthecountry,Ihopeandbelieveitwillsuccessfullyworkoutaproblemofthehighestimportancetothewholehumanrace.TorepresentmeasviewingAMERICAwithill-nature,coldness,oranimosity,ismerelytodoaveryfoolishthing:whichisalwaysaveryeasyone.

ChapterIGoingAway

ISHALLneverforgettheone-fourthseriousandthree-fourthscomicalastonishme



nt,withwhich,onthemorningofthethirdofJanuaryeighteen-hundred-and-forty-two,Iopenedthedoorof,andputmyheadinto,astate-roomonboardtheBritanniasteam-packet,twelvehundredtonsburthenperregister,boundforHalifaxandBoston,andcarryingHerMajestysmails.

Thatthisstate-roomhadbeenspeciallyengagedforCharlesDickens,Esquire,andLady,wasrenderedsufficientlycleareventomyscaredintellectbyaverysmallmanuscript,announcingthefact,whichwaspinnedonaveryflatquilt,coveringaverythinmattress,spreadlikeasurgicalplasteronamostinaccessibleshelf.Butthatthiswasthestate-roomconcerningwhichCharlesDickens,Esquire,andLady,hadhelddailyandnightlyconferencesforatleastfourmonthspreceding:thatthiscouldbyanypossibilitybethatsmallsnugchamberoftheimagination,whichCharlesDickens,Esquire,withthespiritofprophecystronguponhim,hadalwaysforetoldwouldcontainatleastonelittlesofa,andwhichhislady,withamodestyetmostmagnificentsenseofitslimiteddimensions,hadfromthefirstopinedwouldnotholdmorethantwoenormousportmanteausinsomeoddcorneroutofsight(portmanteauswhichcouldnownomorebegotinatthedoor,nottosaystowedaway,thanagiraffecouldbepersuadedorforcedintoaflower-pot):thatthisutterlyimpracticable,thoroughlyhopeless,andprofoundlypreposterousbox,hadtheremotestreferenceto,orconnectionwith,thosechasteandpretty,nottosaygorgeouslittlebowers,sketchedbyamasterlyhand,inthehighlyvarnishedlithographicplanhangingupintheagentscounting-houseinthecityofLondon:thatthisroomofstate,inshort,couldbeanythingbutapleasantfictionandcheerfuljestofthecaptains,inventedandputinpractic

eforthebetterrelishandenjoymentoftherealstate-roompresentlytobedisclosed:theseweretruthswhichIreallycouldnot,forthemoment,bringmymindatalltobearuponorcomprehend.AndIsatdownuponakindofhorsehairslab,orperch,ofwhichthereweretwowithin;andlooked,withoutanyexpressionofcountenancewhatever,atsomefriendswhohadcomeonboardwithus,andwhowerecrushingtheirfacesintoallmannerofshapesbyendeavouringtosqueezethemthroughthesmalldoorway.

Wehadexperiencedaprettysmartshockbeforecomingbelow,which,butthatwewerethemostsanguinepeopleliving,mighthavepreparedusfortheworst.TheimaginativeartisttowhomIhavealreadymadeallusion,hasdepictedinthesamegreatwork,achamberofalmostinterminableperspective,furnished,asMr.Robinswouldsay,inastyleofmorethanEasternsplendour,andfilled(butnoti

nconvenientlyso)withgroupsofladiesandgentlemen,intheveryhigheststateofenjoymentandvivacity.Beforedescendingintothebowelsoftheship,wehadpassedfromthedeckintoalongnarrowapartment,notunlikeagigantichearsewithwindowsinthesides;havingattheupperendamelancholystove,atwhichthreeorfourchillystewardswerewarmingtheirhands;whileoneitherside,extendingdownitswholedrearylength,wasalong,longtable,overeachofwhicharack,fixedtothelowroof,andstuckfullofdrinking-glassesandcruet-stands,hinteddismallyatrollingseasandheavyweather.Ihadnotatthattimeseentheidealpresentmentofthischamberwhichhassincegratifiedmesomuch,butIobservedthatoneofourfriendswhohadmadethearrangementsforourvoyage,turnedpaleonentering,retreatedonthefriendbehindhim.,smotehisforeheadinvoluntarily,andsaidbelowhisbreath,Impossible!itcannotbe!orwordstothateffect.Herecoveredhimselfhoweverbyagreateffort,andafterap

reparatorycoughortwo,cried,withaghastlysmilewhichisstillbeforeme,lookingatthesametimeroundthewalls,Ha!thebreakfast-room,stewardeh?Weallforesawwhattheanswermustbe:weknewtheagonyhesuffered.HehadoftenspokenofTHESALOON;hadtakeninandliveduponthepictorialidea;hadusuallygivenustounderstand,athome,thattoformajustconceptionofit,itwouldbenecessarytomultiplythesizeandfurnitureofanordinarydrawing-roombyseven,andthenfallshortofthereality.Whenthemaninreplyavowedthetruth;theblunt,remorseless,nakedtruth;Thisisthesaloon,sirheactuallyreeledbeneaththeblow.



Inpersonswhoweresosoontopart,andinterposebetweentheirelsedailycommunicationtheformidablebarrierofmanythousandmilesofstormyspace,andwhowereforthatreasonanxioustocastnoothercloud,noteventhepassingshadowofamomentsdisappointmentordiscomfiture,upontheshortintervalofhappycompanionshipthatyetremainedtotheminpersonssosituated,thenaturaltransitionfromthesefirstsurpriseswasobviouslyintopealsofheartylaughter,andIcanreportthatI,forone,beingstillseatedupontheslaborperchbeforementioned,roaredoutrightuntilthevesselrangagain.Thus,inlessthantwominutesaftercominguponitforthefirsttime,weallbycommonconsentagreedthatthisstate-roomwasthepleasantestandmostfacetiousandcapitalcontrivancepossible;andthattohavehaditoneinchlarger,wouldhavebeenquiteadisagreeableanddeplorablestateofthings.Andwiththis;andwithshowinghow,byverynearlyclosingthedoor,andtwininginandoutlikeserpents,andbycountingthelittlewashingslabasstanding-room,wecouldmanagetoinsinuatefourpeopleintoit,allatonetime;andentreatingeachothertoobservehowveryairyitwas(indock),andhowtherewasabeautifulport-holewhichcouldbekeptopenallday(weatherpermitting),andhowtherewasquitealargebulls-eyejustoverthelooking-glasswhichwouldrendershavingaperfectlyeasyanddelightfulprocess(whentheshipdidntrolltoomuch);wearrived,atlast,attheunanimousconclusionthatitwasratherspaciousthanotherwise:thoughIdoverilybelievethat,deductingthetwoberths,oneabovetheother,thanwhichnothingsmallerforsleepinginwasevermadeexceptcoffins,itwasnobiggerthanoneofthosehackneycabrioletswhichhavethedoorbehind,andshoottheirfaresout,likesacksofcoals,uponthepavement.

Havingsettledthispointtotheperfectsatisfactionofallparties,concernedandunconcerned,wesatdownroundthefireintheladiescabinjusttotrytheeffect.Itwasratherdark,certainly;butsomebodysaid,ofcourseitwouldbelight,atsea,apropositiontowhichweallassented;echoingofcourse,ofcourse;thoughitwouldbeexceedinglydifficulttosaywhywethoughtso.Iremember,too,whenwehaddiscoveredandexhaustedanothertopicofconsolationinthecircumstanceofthisladiescabinadjoiningourstate-room,andtheconsequentlyimmensefeasibilityofsittingthereatalltimesandseasons,andhadfallenintoamomentarysilence,leaningourfacesonourhandsandlookingatthefire,oneofourpartysaid,withthesolemnairofamanwhohadmadeadiscovery,Whatarelishmulledclaretwillhavedownhere!whichappearedtostrikeusallmostforcibly;asthoughthereweresomethingspicyandhigh-flavouredincabins,whic

hessentiallyimprovedthatcomposition,andrendereditquiteincapableofperfectionanywhereelse.

Therewasastewardess,too,activelyengagedinproducingcleansheetsandtable-clothsfromtheveryentrailsofthesofas,andfromunexpectedlockers,ofsuchartfulmechanism,thatitmadeonesheadachetoseethemopenedoneafteranother,andrendereditquiteadistractingcircumstancetofollowherproceedings,andtofindthateverynookandcornerandindividualpieceoffurniturewassomethingelsebesideswhatitpretendedtobe,andwasameretrapanddeceptionandplaceofsecretstowage,whoseostensiblepurposewasitsleastusefulone.

GodblessthatstewardessforherpiouslyfraudulentaccountofJanuaryvoyages!Godblessherforherclearrecollectionofthecompanionpassageoflastyear,

whennobodywasill,andeverybodydancingfrommorningtonight,anditwasarunoftwelvedays,andapieceofthepurestfrolic,anddelight,andjollity!AllhappinessbewithherforherbrightfaceandherpleasantScotchtongue,whichhadsoundsofoldHomeinitformyfellow-traveller;andforherpredictionsoffairwindsandfineweather(allwrong,orIshouldntbehalfsofondofher);andforthetenthousandsmallfragmentsofgenuinewomanlytact,bywhich,withoutpiecingthemelaboratelytogether,andpatchingthemupintoshapeandformandcaseandpointedapplication,sheneverthelessdidplainlyshowthatallyoungmothersononesideoftheAtlanticwerenearandcloseathandtotheirlittlechildrenleftupontheother;andthatwhatseemedtotheuninitiatedaseri



ousjourney,was,tothosewhowereinthesecret,amerefrolic,tobesungaboutandwhistledat!Lightbeherheart,andgayhermerryeyes,foryears!

Thestate-roomhadgrownprettyfast;butbythistimeithadexpandedintosomethingquitebulky,andalmostboastedabay-windowtoviewtheseafrom.Sowewentupondeckagaininhighspirits;andthere,everythingwasinsuchastateofbustleandactivepreparation,thatthebloodquickeneditspace,andwhirledthroughonesveinsonthatclearfrostymorningwithinvoluntarymirthfulness.Foreverygallantshipwasridingslowlyupanddown,andeverylittleboatwassplashingnoisilyinthewater;andknotsofpeoplestooduponthewharf,gazingwithakindofdreaddelightonthefar-famedfastAmericansteamer;andonepartyofmenweretakinginthemilk,or,inotherwords,gettingthecowonboard;andanotherwerefillingtheicehousestotheverythroatwithfreshprovisions;withbutchers-meatandgarden-stuff,palesucking-pigs,calvesheadsinscores,beef,veal,andpork,andpoultryoutofallproportion;andotherswerecoilingropesandbusywithoakumyarns;andotherswereloweringheavypackagesintothehold;andthepursersheadwasbarelyvisibleasitloomedinastate,ofexquisiteperplexityfromthemidstofavastpileofpassengersluggage;andthereseemedtobenothinggoingonanywhere,oruppermostinthemindofanybody,butpreparationsforthismightyvoyage.This,withthebrightcoldsun,thebracingair,thecrisply-curlingwater,thethinwhitecrustofmorningiceuponthedeckswhichcrackledwithasharpandcheerfulsoundbeneaththelightesttread,wasirresistible.Andwhen,againupontheshore,weturnedandsawfromthevesselsmasthernamesignalledinflagsofjoyouscolours,andflutteringbytheirsidet

hebeautifulAmericanbannerwithitsstarsandstripes,thelongthreethousandmilesandmore,and,longerstill,thesixwholemonthsofabsence,sodwindledandfaded,thattheshiphadgoneoutandcomehomeagain,anditwasbroadspringalreadyintheCoburgDockatLiverpool.

Ihavenotinquiredamongmymedicalacquaintance,whetherTurtle,andcoldPunch,withHock,Champagne,andClaret,andalltheslightetceterausuallyincludedinanunlimitedorderforagooddinnerespeciallywhenitislefttotheliberalconstructionofmyfaultlessfriend,Mr.Radley,oftheAdelphiHotelarepeculiarlycalculatedtosufferasea-change;orwhetheraplainmutton-chop,andaglassortwoofsherry,wouldbelesslikelyofconversionintoforeignanddisconcertingmaterial.Myownopinionis,thatwhetheroneisdiscreetorindiscreetintheseparticulars,ontheeveofasea-voyage,isamatteroflittlecon

sequence;andthat,touseacommonphrase,itcomestoverymuchthesamethingintheend.Bethisasitmay,Iknowthatthedinnerofthatdaywasundeniablyperfect;thatitcomprehendedalltheseitems,andagreatmanymore;andthatwealldidamplejusticetoit.AndIknowtoo,that,batingacertaintacitavoidanceofanyallusiontoto-morrow;suchasmaybesupposedtoprevailbetweendelicate-mindedturnkeys,andasensitiveprisonerwhoistobehangednextmorning;wegotonverywell,and,allthingsconsidered,weremerryenough.

WhenthemorningTHEmorningcame,andwemetatbreakfast,itwascurioustoseehoweagerweallweretopreventamomentspauseintheconversation,andhowastoundinglygayeverybodywas:theforcedspiritsofeachmemberofthelittlepartyhavingasmuchlikenesstohisnaturalmirth,ashot-housepeasatfiveguineasthequart,resembleinflavourthegrowthofthedews,andair,andrainof

Heaven.Butasoneoclock,thehourforgoingaboard,drewnear,thisvolubilitydwindledawaybylittleandlittle,despitethemostperseveringeffortstothecontrary,untilatlast,thematterbeingnowquitedesperate,wethrewoffalldisguise;openlyspeculateduponwhereweshouldbethistimeto-morrow,thistimenextday,andsoforth;andentrustedavastnumberofmessagestothosewhointendedreturningtotownthatnight,whichweretobedeliveredathomeandelsewherewithoutfail,withintheveryshortestpossiblespaceoftimeafterthearrivaloftherailwaytrainatEustonSquare.Andcommissionsandremembrancesdosocrowdupononeatsuchatime,thatwewerestillbusiedwiththisemploymentwhenwefoundourselvesfused,asitwere,intoadenseconglomerationofp



assengersandpassengersfriendsandpassengersluggage,alljumbledtogetheronthedeckofasmallsteamboat,andpantingandsnortingofftothepacket,whichhadworkedoutofdockyesterdayafternoonandwasnowlyingathermooringsintheriver.

Andtheresheis!alleyesareturnedtowhereshelies,dimlydiscerniblethroughthegatheringfogoftheearlywinterafternoon;everyfingerispointedinthesamedirection;andmurmursofinterestandadmirationasHowbeautifulshelooks!Howtrimsheis!areheardoneveryside.Eventhelazygentlemanwithhishononesideandhishandsinhispockets,whohasdispensedsomuchconsolationbyinquiringwithayawnofanothergentlemanwhetherheisgoingacrossasifitwereaferryevenhecondescendstolookthatway,andnodhishead,aswhoshouldsay,NomistakeaboutTHAT:andnoteventhesageLordBurleighinhisnod,includedhalfsomuchasthislazygentlemanofmightwhohasmadethepassage(aseverybodyonboardhasfoundoutalready;itsimpossibletosayhow)thirteentimeswithoutasingleaccident!Thereisanotherpassengerverymuchwrapped-up,whohasbeenfrowneddownbytherest,andmorallytrampleduponandcrushed,forpresumingtoinquirewithatimidinteresthowlongitissincethepoorPresidentwentdown.Heisstandingclosetothelazygentleman,andsayswithafaintsmilethathebelievesSheisaverystrongShip;towhichthelazygentleman,lookingfirstinhisquestionerseyeandthenveryhardinthewinds,answersunexpectedlyandominously,thatSheneedbe.Uponthisthelazygentlemaninstantlyfallsverylowinthepopularestimation,andthepassengers,withlooksofdefiance,whispertoeachotherthatheisanass,andanimpostor,andclearlydo

ntknowanythingatallaboutit.

Butwearemadefastalongsidethepacket,whosehugeredfunnelissmokingbravely,givingrichpromiseofseriousintentions.Packing-cases,portmanteaus,carpet-bags,andboxes,arealreadypassedfromhandtohand,andhauledonboardwithbreathlessrapidity.Theofficers,smartlydressed,areatthegangwayhandingthepassengersuptheside,andhurryingthemen.Infiveminutestime,thelittlesteamerisutterlydeserted,andthepacketisbesetandover-runbyitslatefreight,whoinstantlypervadethewholeship,andaretobemetwithbythedozenineverynookandcorner:swarmingdownbelowwiththeirownbaggage,andstumblingoverotherpeoples;disposingthemselvescomfortablyinwrongcabins,andcreatingamosthorribleconfusionbyhavingtoturnoutagain;madlybentuponopeninglockeddoors,andonforcingapassageintoallkindsofout-of-the-w

ayplaceswherethereisnothoroughfare;sendingwildstewards,withelfinhair,toandfrouponthebreezydecksonunintelligibleerrands,impossibleofexecution:andinshort,creatingthemostextraordinaryandbewilderingtumult.Inthemidstofallthis,thelazygentleman,whoseemstohavenoluggageofanykindnotsomuchasafriend,evenloungesupanddownthehurricanedeck,coollypuffingacigar;and,asthisunconcerneddemeanouragainexaltshimintheopinionofthosewhohaveleisuretoobservehisproceedings,everytimehelooksupatthemasts,ordownatthedecks,orovertheside,theylooktheretoo,aswonderingwhetherheseesanythingwronganywhere,andhopingthat,incaseheshould,hewillhavethegoodnesstomentionit.

Whathavewehere?Thecaptainsboat!andyonderthecaptainhimself.Now,byallourhopesandwishes,theverymanheoughttobe!Awell-made,tight-built,da

pperlittlefellow;witharuddyface,whichisaletterofinvitationtoshakehimbybothhandsatonce;andwithaclear,bluehonesteye,thatitdoesonegoodtoseeonessparklingimagein.Ringthebell!Ding,ding,ding!theverybellinahurry.Nowfortheshorewhosfortheshore?Thesegentlemen,Iamsorryy.Theyareaway,andneversaid,Goodbye.Ahnowtheywaveitfromthelittleboat.Goodbye!Goodbye!Threecheersfromthem;threemorefromus;threemorefromthem:andtheyaregone.

Toandfro,toandfro,toandfroagainahundredtimes!Thiswaitingforthelatestmail-bagsisworsethanall.Ifwecouldhavegoneoffinthemidstoftha



tlastburst,weshouldhavestartedtriumphantly:buttoliehere,twohoursandmoreinthedampfog,neitherstayingathomenorgoingabroad,islettingonegraduallydownintotheverydepthsofdulnessandlowspirits.Aspeckinthemist,atlast!Thatssomething.Itistheboatwewaitfor!Thatsmoretothepurpose.Thecaptainappearsonthepaddle-boxwithhisspeakingtrumpet;theofficerstaketheirstations;allhandsareonthealert;theflagginghopesofthepassengersrevive;thecookspauseintheirsavourywork,andlookoutwithfacesfullofinterest.Theboatcomesalongside;thebagsaredraggedinanyhow,andflungdownforthemomentanywhere.Threecheersmore:andasthefirstoneringsuponourears,thevesselthrobslikeastronggiantthathasjustreceivedthebreathoflife;thetwogreatwheelsturnfiercelyroundforthefirsttime;andthenobleship,withwindandtideastern,breaksproudlythroughthelashedandroamingwater.

ChapterIIThePassageOut

WEalldinedtogetherthatday;andaratherformidablepartywewere:nofewerthaneighty-sixstrong.Thevesselbeingprettydeepinthewater,withallhercoalsonboardandsomanypassengers,andtheweatherbeingcalmandquiet,therewasbutlittlemotion;sothatbeforethedinnerwashalfover,eventhosepassengerswhoweremostdistrustfulofthemselvespluckedupamazingly;andthosewhointhemorninghadreturnedtotheuniversalquestion,Areyouagoodsailor?averydecidednegative,noweitherparriedtheinquirywiththeevasivereply,

Oh!IsupposeImnoworsethananybodyelse;or,recklessofallmoralobligations,answeredboldlyYes:andwithsomeirritationtoo,asthoughtheywouldadd,IshouldliketoknowwhatyouseeinME,sir,particularly,tojustifysuspicion!

Notwithstandingthishightoneofcourageandconfidence,Icouldnotbutobservethatveryfewremainedlongovertheirwine;andthateverybodyhadanunusualloveoftheopenair;andthatthefavouriteandmostcovetedseatswereinvariablythosenearesttothedoor.Thetea-table,too,wasbynomeansaswellattendedasthedinner-table;andtherewaslesswhist-playingthanmighthavebeenexpected.Still,withtheexceptionofonelady,whohadretiredwithsomeprecipitationatdinner-time,immediatelyafterbeingassistedtothefinestcutofaveryyellowboiledlegofmuttonwithverygreencapers,therewerenoinvalidsasyet;andwalking,andsmoking,anddrinkingofbrandy-and-water(butalways

intheopenair),wentonwithunabatedspirit,untilelevenoclockorthereabouts,whenturninginnosailorofsevenhoursexperiencetalksofgoingtobedbectheorderofthenight.Theperpetualtrampofboot-heelsonthedecksgaveplacetoaheavysilence,andthewholehumanfreightwasstowedawaybelow,exceptingaveryfewstragglers,likemyself,whowereprobably,likeme,afraidtogothere.

Tooneunaccustomedtosuchscenes,thisisaverystrikingtimeonshipboard.Afterwards,andwhenitsnoveltyhadlongwornoff,itneverceasedtohaveapeculiarinterestandcharmforme.Thegloomthroughwhichthegreatblackmassholdsitsdirectandcertaincourse;therushingwater,plainlyheard,butdimlyseen;thebroad,white,glisteningtrack,thatfollowsinthevesselswake;themenonthelook-outforward,whowouldbescarcelyvisibleagainstthedarksky,b

utfortheirblottingoutsomescoreofglisteningstars;thehelmsmanatthewheel,withtheilluminatedcardbeforehim,shining,aspeckoflightamidstthedarkness,likesomethingsentientandofDivineintelligence;themelancholysighingofthewindthroughblock,andrope,andchain;thegleamingforthoflightfromeverycrevice,nook,andtinypieceofglassaboutthedecks,asthoughtheshipwerefilledwithfireinhiding,readytoburstthroughanyoutlet,wildwithitsresistlesspowerofdeathandruin.Atfirst,too,andevenwhenthehour,andalltheobjectsitexalts,havecometobefamiliar,itisdifficult,aloneandthoughtful,toholdthemtotheirpropershapesandforms.Theychangewiththewanderingfancy;assumethesemblanceofthingsleftfaraway;putonth



ewell-rememberedaspectoffavouriteplacesdearlyloved;andevenpeoplethemwithshadows.Streets,houses,rooms;figuressoliketheirusualoccupants,thattheyhavestartledmebytheirreality,whichfarexceeded,asitseemedtome,allpowerofminetoconjureuptheabsent;have,manyandmanyatime,atsuchanhour,grownsuddenlyoutofobjectswithwhosereallook,anduse,andpurpose,Iwasaswellacquaintedaswithmyowntwohands.

Myowntwohands,andfeetlikewise,beingverycold,however,onthisparticularoccasion,Icreptbelowatmidnight.Itwasnotexactlycomfortablebelow.Itwasdecidedlyclose;anditwasimpossibletobeunconsciousofthepresenceofthatextraordinarycompoundofstrangesmells,whichistobefoundnowherebutonboardship,andwhichissuchasubtleperfumethatitseemstoenterateveryporeoftheskin,andwhisperofthehold.Twopassengerswives(oneofthemmyown)layalreadyinsilentagoniesonthesofa;andoneladysmaid(MYladys)wasamerebundleonthefloor,execratingherdestiny,andpoundinghercurl-papersamongthestrayboxes.Everythingslopedthewrongway:whichinitselfwasanaggravationscarcelytobeborne.Ihadleftthedooropen,amomentbefore,inthebosomofagentledeclivity,and,whenIturnedtoshutit,itwasonthesummitofaloftyeminence.Noweveryplankandtimbercreaked,asiftheshipweremadeofwicker-work;andnowcrackled,likeanenormousfireofthedriestpossibletwigs.Therewasnothingforitbutbed;soIwenttobed.

Itwasprettymuchthesameforthenexttwodays,withatolerablyfairwindanddryweather.Ireadinbed(buttothishourIdontknowwhat)agooddeal;and

reeledondeckalittle;drankcoldbrandy-and-waterwithanunspeakabledisgust,andatehardbiscuitperseveringly:notill,butgoingtobe.

Itisthethirdmorning.Iamawakenedoutofmysleepbyadismalshriekfrommywife,whodemandstoknowwhethertheresanydanger.Irousemyself,andlookoutofbed.Thewater-jugisplungingandleapinglikealivelydolphin;allthesmallerarticlesareafloat,exceptmyshoes,whicharestrandedonacarpet-bag,highanddry,likeacoupleofcoal-barges.SuddenlyIseethemspringintotheair,andbeholdthelooking-glass,whichisnailedtothewall,stickingfastupontheceiling.Atthesametimethedoorentirelydisappears,andanewoneisopenedinthefloor.ThenIbegintocomprehendthatthestate-roomisstandingonitshead.

Beforeitispossibletomakeanyarrangementatallcompatiblewiththisnovelstateofthings,theshiprights.BeforeonecansayThankHeaven!shewrongsagain.BeforeonecancrysheISwrong,sheseemstohavestartedforward,andtobeacreatureactuallyrunningofitsownaccord,withbrokenkneesandfailinglegs,througheveryvarietyofholeandpitfall,andstumblingconstantly.Beforeonecansomuchaswonder,shetakesahighleapintotheair.Beforeshehaswelldonethat,shetakesadeepdiveintothewater.Beforeshehasgainedthesurface,shethrowsasummerset.Theinstantsheisonherlegs,sherushesbackward.Andsoshegoesonstaggering,heaving,wrestling,leaping,diving,jumping,pitching,throbbing,rolling,androcking:andgoingthroughallthesemovements,sometimesbyturns,andsometimesaltogether:untilonefeelsdisposedtoroarformercy.

Astewardpasses.Steward!Sir?WhatISthematter?whatDOyoucallthis?Rathevyseaon,sir,andahead-wind.

Ahead-wind!Imagineahumanfaceuponthevesselsprow,withfifteenthousandSamsonsinonebentupondrivingherback,andhittingherexactlybetweentheeyeswheneversheattemptstoadvanceaninch.Imaginetheshipherself,witheverypulseandarteryofherhugebodyswollenandburstingunderthismaltreatment,sworntogoonordie.Imaginethewindhowling,thesearoaring,therainbeating:allinfuriousarrayagainsther.Picturetheskybothdarkandwild,andtheclouds,infearfulsympathywiththewaves,makinganotheroceanintheair.



Addtoallthis,theclatteringondeckanddownbelow;thetreadofhurriedfeet;theloudhoarseshoutsofseamen;thegurglinginandoutofwaterthroughthescuppers;with,everynowandthen,thestrikingofaheavyseaupontheplanksabove,withthedeep,dead,heavysoundofthunderheardwithinavault;andthereisthehead-windofthatJanuarymorning.

Isaynothingofwhatmaybecalledthedomesticnoisesoftheship:suchasthebreakingofglassandcrockery,thetumblingdownofstewards,thegambols,overhead,ofloosecasksandtruantdozensofbottledporter,andtheveryremarkableandfarfromexhilaratingsoundsraisedintheirvariousstate-roomsbytheseventypassengerswhoweretooilltogetuptobreakfast.Isaynothingofthem:foralthoughIlaylisteningtothisconcertforthreeorfourdays,IdontthinkIhearditformorethanaquarterofaminute,attheexpirationofwhichterm,Ilaydownagain,excessivelysea-sick.

Notsea-sick,beitunderstood,intheordinaryacceptationoftheterm:IwishIhadbeen:butinaformwhichIhaveneverseenorhearddescribed,thoughIhavenodoubtitisverycommon.Ilaythere,allthedaylong,quitecoollyandcontentedly;withnosenseofweariness,withnodesiretogetup,orgetbetter,ortaketheair;withnocuriosity,orcare,orregret,ofanysortordegree,savingthatIthinkIcanremember,inthisuniversalindifference,havingakindoflazyjoyoffiendishdelight,ifanythingsolethargiccanbedignifiedwiththetitleinthefactofmywifebeingtooilltotalktome.IfImaybeallowedtoillustratemystateofmindbysuchanexample,IshouldsaythatIwas

exactlyintheconditionoftheelderMr.Willet,aftertheincursionoftheriotersintohisbaratChigwell.Nothingwouldhavesurprisedme.If,inthemomentaryilluminationofanyrayofintelligencethatmayhavecomeuponmeinthewayofthoughtsofHome,agoblinpostman,withascarletcoatandbell,hadcomeintothatlittlekennelbeforeme,broadawakeinbroadday,and,apologisingforbeingdampthroughwalkinginthesea,hadhandedmealetterdirectedtomyself,infamiliarcharacters,IamcertainIshouldnothavefeltoneatomofastonishment:Ishouldhavebeenperfectlysatisfied.IfNeptunehimselfhadwalkedin,withatoastedsharkonhistrident,Ishouldhavelookedupontheeventasoneoftheverycommonesteverydayoccurrences.

OnceonceIfoundmyselfondeck.IdontknowhowIgotthere,orwhatpossessedmetogothere,butthereIwas;andcompletelydressedtoo,withahugepea-coa

ton,andapairofbootssuchasnoweakmaninhissensescouldeverhavegotinto.Ifoundmyselfstanding,whenagleamofconsciousnesscameuponme,holdingontosomething.Idontknowwhat.Ithinkitwastheboatswain:oritmayhavebeenthepump:orpossiblythecow.IcantsayhowlongIhadbeenthere;whetheradayoraminute.Irecollecttryingtothinkaboutsomething(aboutanythinginthewholewideworld,Iwasnotparticular)withoutthesmallesteffect.Icouldnotevenmakeoutwhichwasthesea,andwhichthesky,forthehorizonseemeddrunk,andwasflyingwildlyaboutinalldirections.Eveninthatincapablestate,however,Irecognisedthelazygentlemanstandingbeforeme:nauticallycladinasuitofshaggyblue,withanoilskinhat.ButIwastooimbecile,althoughIknewittobehe,toseparatehimfromhisdress;andtriedtocallhim,Iremember,PILOT.Afteranotherintervaloftotalunconsciousness,Ifoundhehadgone,andrecognisedanotherfigureinitsplace.Itseemedtowaveandfluc

tuatebeforemeasthoughIsawitreflectedinanunsteadylooking-glass;butIknewitforthecaptain;andsuchwasthecheerfulinfluenceofhisface,thatItriedtosmile:yes,eventhenItriedtosmile.Isawbyhisgesturesthatheaddressedme;butitwasalongtimebeforeIcouldmakeoutthatheremonstratedagainstmystandinguptomykneesinwaterasIwas;ofcourseIdontknowwhy.Itriedtothankhim,butcouldnt.IcouldonlypointtomybootsorwhereverIsupposedmybootstobeandsayinaplaintivevoice,Corksoles:atthesametimeendeavouring,Iamtold,tositdowninthepool.FindingthatIwasquiteinsensible,andforthetimeamaniac,hehumanelyconductedmebelow.



ThereIremaineduntilIgotbetter:suffering,wheneverIwasrecommendedtoeatanything,anamountofanguishonlysecondtothatwhichissaidtobeenduredbytheapparentlydrowned,intheprocessofrestorationtolife.OnegentlemanonboardhadaletterofintroductiontomefromamutualfriendinLondon.Hesentitbelowwithhiscard,onthemorningofthehead-wind;andIwaslongtroubledwiththeideathathemightbeup,andwell,andahundredtimesadayexpectingmetocalluponhiminthesaloon.Iimaginedhimoneofthosecast-ironimagesIwillnotcallthemmenwhoask,withredfaces,andlustyvoices,whatsea-sicknessmeans,andwhetheritreallyisasbadasitisrepresentedtobe.Thiswasverytorturingindeed;andIdontthinkIeverfeltsuchperfectgratificationandgratitudeofheart,asIdidwhenIheardfromtheshipsdoctorthathehadbeenobligedtoputalargemustardpoulticeonthisverygentlemansstomach.Idatemyrecoveryfromthereceiptofthatintelligence.

Itwasmateriallyassistedthough,Ihavenodoubt,byaheavygaleofwind,whichcameslowlyupatsunset,whenwewereabouttendaysout,andragedwithgraduallyincreasingfuryuntilmorning,savingthatitlulledforanhouralittlebeforemidnight.Therewassomethingintheunnaturalreposeofthathour,andintheaftergatheringofthestorm,soinconceivablyawfulandtremendous,thatitsburstingintofullviolencewasalmostarelief.

ThelabouringoftheshipinthetroubledseaonthisnightIshallneverforget.Williteverbeworsethanthis?wasaquestionIhadoftenheardasked,wheneverythingwasslidingandbumpingabout,andwhenitcertainlydidseemdifficult

tocomprehendthepossibilityofanythingafloatbeingmoredisturbed,withouttopplingoverandgoingdown.Butwhattheagitationofasteam-vesselis,onabadwintersnightinthewildAtlantic,itisimpossibleforthemostvividimaginationtoconceive.Tosaythatsheisflungdownonhersideinthewaves,withhermastsdippingintothem,andthat,springingupagain,sherollsoverontheotherside,untilaheavyseastrikesherwiththenoiseofahundredgreatguns,andhurlsherbackthatshestops,andstaggers,andshivers,asthoughstunned,andthen,withaviolentthrobbingatherheart,dartsonwardlikeamonstergoadedintomadness,tobebeatendown,andbattered,andcrushed,andleapedonbytheangryseathatthunder,lightning,hail,andrain,andwind,areallinfiercecontentionforthemasterythateveryplankhasitsgroan,everynailitsshriek,andeverydropofwaterinthegreatoceanitshowlingvoiceisnothing.Tosaythatallisgrand,andallappallingandhorribleinthelastdegree,

isnothing.Wordscannotexpressit.Thoughtscannotconveyit.Onlyadreamcancallitupagain,inallitsfury,rage,andpassion.

Andyet,intheverymidstoftheseterrors,Iwasplacedinasituationsoexquisitelyridiculous,thateventhenIhadasstrongasenseofitsabsurdityasIhavenow,andcouldnomorehelplaughingthanIcanatanyothercomicalincident,happeningundercircumstancesthemostfavourabletoitsenjoyment.Aboutmidnightweshippedasea,whichforceditswaythroughtheskylights,burstopenthedoorsabove,andcameragingandroaringdownintotheladiescabin,totheunspeakableconsternationofmywifeandalittleScotchladywho,bytheway,hadpreviouslysentamessagetothecaptainbythestewardess,requestinghim,withhercompliments,tohaveasteelconductorimmediatelyattachedtothetopofeverymast,andtothechimney,inorderthattheshipmightnotbestruckby

lightning.Theyandthehandmaidbeforementioned,beinginsuchecstasiesoffearthatIscarcelyknewwhattodowiththem,Inaturallybethoughtmyselfofsomerestorativeorcomfortablecordial;andnothingbetteroccurringtome,atthemoment,thanhotbrandy-and-water,Iprocuredatumblerfullwithoutdelay.Itbeingimpossibletostandorsitwithoutholdingon,theywereallheapedtogetherinonecornerofalongsofaafixtureextendingentirelyacrossthecabinwheretheyclungtoeachotherinmomentaryexpectationofbeingdrowned.WhenIapproachedthisplacewithmyspecific,andwasabouttoadministeritwithmanyconsolatoryexpressionstothenearestsufferer,whatwasmydismaytoseethemallrollslowlydowntotheotherend!AndwhenIstaggeredtothatend,andhe



ldouttheglassoncemore,howimmenselybaffledweremygoodintentionsbytheshipgivinganotherlurch,andtheirallrollingbackagain!IsupposeIdodgedthemupanddownthissofaforatleastaquarterofanhour,withoutreachingthemonce;andbythetimeIdidcatchthem,thebrandy-and-waterwasdiminished,byconstantspilling,toateaspoonful.Tocompletethegroup,itisnecessarytorecogniseinthisdisconcerteddodger,anindividualverypalefromsea-sickness,whohadshavedhisbeardandbrushedhishair,last,atLiverpool:andwhoseonlyarticleofdress(linennotincluded)wereapairofdreadnoughttrousers;abluejacket,formerlyadmiredupontheThamesatRichmond;nostockings;andoneslipper.

Oftheoutrageousanticsperformedbythatshipnextmorning;whichmadebedapracticaljoke,andgettingup,byanyprocessshortoffallingout,animpossibility;Isaynothing.ButanythingliketheutterdrearinessanddesolationthatmetmyeyeswhenIliterallytumbledupondeckatnoon,Ineversaw.Oceanandskywereallofonedull,heavy,uniform,leadcolour.Therewasnoextentofprospectevenoverthedrearywastethatlayaroundus,forthesearanhigh,andthehorizonencompasseduslikealargeblackhoop.Viewedfromtheair,orsometallbluffonshore,itwouldhavebeenimposingandstupendous,nodoubt;butseenfromthewetandrollingdecks,itonlyimpressedonegiddilyandpainfully.Inthegaleoflastnightthelife-boathadbeencrushedbyoneblowofthesealikeawalnut-shell;andthereithungdanglingintheair:amerefaggotofcrazyboards.Theplankingofthepaddle-boxeshadbeentornsheeraway.Thewheelswereexposedandbare;andtheywhirledanddashedtheirsprayaboutthedecks

atrandom.Chimney,whitewithcrustedsalt;topmastsstruck;storm-sailsset;riggingallknotted,tangled,wet,anddrooping:agloomierpictureitwouldbehardtolookupon.

Iwasnowcomfortablyestablishedbycourtesyintheladiescabin,where,besidesourselves,therewereonlyfourotherpassengers.First,thelittleScotchladybeforementioned,onherwaytojoinherhusbandatNewYork,whohadsettledtherethreeyearsbefore.Secondlyandthirdly,anhonestyoungYorkshireman,connectedwithsomeAmericanhouse;domiciledinthatsamecity,andcarryingthitherhisbeautifulyoungwifetowhomhehadbeenmarriedbutafortnight,andwhowasthefairestspecimenofacomelyEnglishcountrygirlIhaveeverseen.Fourthy,fifthly,andlastly,anothercouple:newlymarriedtoo,ifonemightjudgefromtheendearmentstheyfrequentlyinterchanged:ofwhomIknownomorethan

thattheywereratheramysterious,run-awaykindofcouple;thattheladyhadgreatpersonalattractionsalso;andthatthegentlemancarriedmoregunswithhimthanRobinsonCrusoe,woreashooting-coat,andhadtwogreatdogsonboard.Onfurtherconsideration,Irememberthathetriedhotroastpigandbottledaleasacureforsea-sickness;andthathetooktheseremedies(usuallyinbed)dayafterday,withastonishingperseverance.Imayadd,fortheinformationofthecurious,thattheydecidedlyfailed.

Theweathercontinuingobstinatelyandalmostunprecedentedlybad,weusuallystraggledintothiscabin,moreorlessfaintandmiserable,aboutanhourbeforenoon,andlaydownonthesofastorecover;duringwhichinterval,thecaptainwouldlookintocommunicatethestateofthewind,themoralcertaintyofitschangingto-morrow(theweatherisalwaysgoingtoimproveto-morrow,atsea),the

vesselsrateofsailing,andsoforth.Observationstherewerenonetotellusof,fortherewasnosuntotakethemby.Butadescriptionofonedaywillserveforalltherest.Hereitis.

Thecaptainbeinggone,wecomposeourselvestoread,iftheplacebelightenough;andifnot,wedozeandtalkalternately.Atone,abellrings,andthestewardesscomesdownwithasteamingdishofbakedpotatoes,andanotherofroastedapples;andplatesofpigsface,coldham,saltbeef;orperhapsasmokingmessofrarehotcollops.Wefalltouponthesedainties;eatasmuchaswecan(wehavegreatappetitesnow);andareaslongaspossibleaboutit.Ifthefirewill



burn(itWILLsometimes)weareprettycheerful.Ifitwont,weallremarktoeachotherthatitsverycold,rubourhands,coverourselveswithcoatsandcloaks,andliedownagaintodoze,talk,andread(providedasaforesaid),untildinner-time.Atfive,anotherbellrings,andthestewardessreappearswithanotherdishofpotatoesboiledthistimeandstoreofhotmeatofvariouskinds:notforgettingtheroastpig,tobetakenmedicinally.Wesitdownattableagain(rathermorecheerfullythanbefore);prolongthemealwitharathermouldydessertofapples,grapes,andoranges;anddrinkourwineandbrandy-and-water.Thebottlesandglassesarestilluponthetable,andtheorangesandsofortharerollingaboutaccordingtotheirfancyandtheshipsway,whenthedoctorcomesdown,byspecialnightlyinvitation,tojoinoureveningrubber:immediatelyonwhosearrivalwemakeapartyatwhist,andasitisaroughnightandthecardswillnotlieonthecloth,weputthetricksinourpocketsaswetakethem.Atwhistweremainwithexemplarygravity(deductingashorttimeforteaandtoast)untilelevenoclock,orthereabouts;whenthecaptaincomesdownagain,inasou-westerhattiedunderhischin,andapilot-coat:makingthegroundwetwherehestands.Bythistimethecard-playingisover,andthebottlesandglassesareagainuponthetable;andafteranhourspleasantconversationabouttheship,thepassengers,andthingsingeneral,thecaptain(whonevergoestobed,andisneveroutofhumour)turnsuphiscoatcollarforthedeckagain;shakeshandsallround;andgoeslaughingoutintotheweatherasmerrilyastoabirthdayparty.

Astodailynews,thereisnodearthofthatcommodity.ThispassengerisreportedtohavelostfourteenpoundsatVingt-et-uninthesaloonyesterday;andthat

passengerdrinkshisbottleofchampagneeveryday,andhowhedoesit(beingonlyaclerk),nobodyknows.Theheadengineerhasdistinctlysaidthatthereneverwassuchtimesmeaningweatherandfourgoodhandsareill,andhavegivenin,deadbeat.Severalberthsarefullofwater,andallthecabinsareleaky.Theshipscook,secretlyswiggingdamagedwhiskey,hasbeenfounddrunk;andhasbeenplayeduponbythefire-engineuntilquitesober.Allthestewardshavefallendown-stairsatvariousdinner-times,andgoaboutwithplastersinvariousplaces.Thebakerisill,andsoisthepastry-cook.Anewman,horriblyindisposed,hasbeenrequiredtofilltheplaceofthelatterofficer;andhasbeenproppedandjammedupwithemptycasksinalittlehouseupondeck,andcommandedtorolloutpie-crust,whichheprotests(beinghighlybilious)itisdeathtohimtolookat.News!Adozenmurdersonshorewouldlacktheinterestoftheseslightincidentsatsea.

Dividedbetweenourrubberandsuchtopicsasthese,wewererunning(aswethought)intoHalifaxHarbour,onthefifteenthnight,withlittlewindandabrightmoonindeed,wehadmadetheLightatitsouterentrance,andputthepilotinchargewhensuddenlytheshipstruckuponabankofmud.Animmediaterushondecktookplaceofcourse;thesideswerecrowdedinaninstant;andforafewminuteswewereinaslivelyastateofconfusionasthegreatestloverofdisorderwoulddesiretosee.Thepassengers,andguns,andwater-casks,andotherheavymatters,beingallhuddledtogetheraft,however,tolightenherinthehead,shewassoongotoff;andaftersomedrivingontowardsanuncomfortablelineofobjects(whosevicinityhadbeenannouncedveryearlyinthedisasterbyaloudcryofBreakersa-head!)andmuchbackingofpaddles,andheavingoftheleadintoaconstantlydecreasingdepthofwater,wedroppedanchorinastrangeoutlandi

sh-lookingnookwhichnobodyonboardcouldrecognise,althoughtherewaslandallaboutus,andsoclosethatwecouldplainlyseethewavingbranchesofthetrees.

Itwasstrangeenough,inthesilenceofmidnight,andthedeadstillnessthatseemedtobecreatedbythesuddenandunexpectedstoppageoftheenginewhichhadbeenclankingandblastinginourearsincessantlyforsomanydays,towatchthelookofblankastonishmentexpressedineveryface:beginningwiththeofficers,tracingitthroughallthepassengers,anddescendingtotheverystokersandfurnacemen,whoemergedfrombelow,onebyone,andclusteredtogetherinas



mokygroupaboutthehatchwayoftheengine-room,comparingnotesinwhispers.Afterthrowingupafewrocketsandfiringsignalgunsinthehopeofbeinghailedfromtheland,oratleastofseeingalightbutwithoutanyothersightorsoundpresentingitselfitwasdeterminedtosendaboatonshore.Itwasamusingtoobservehowverykindsomeofthepassengerswere,involunteeringtogoashoreinthissameboat:forthegeneralgood,ofcourse:notbyanymeansbecausetheythoughttheshipinanunsafeposition,orcontemplatedthepossibilityofherheelingoverincasethetidewererunningout.Norwasitlessamusingtoremarkhowdesperatelyunpopularthepoorpilotbecameinoneshortminute.HehadhadhispassageoutfromLiverpool,andduringthewholevoyagehadbeenquiteanotoriouscharacter,asatellerofanecdotesandcrackerofjokes.Yethereweretheverymenwhohadlaughedtheloudestathisjests,nowflourishingtheirfistsinhisface,loadinghimwithimprecations,anddefyinghimtohisteethasavillain!

Theboatsoonshovedoff,withalanternandsundrybluelightsonboard;andinlessthananhourreturned;theofficerincommandbringingwithhimatolerablytallyoungtree,whichhehadpluckedupbytheroots,tosatisfycertaindistrustfulpassengerswhosemindsmisgavethemthattheyweretobeimposeduponandshipwrecked,andwhowouldonnoothertermsbelievethathehadbeenashore,orhaddoneanythingbutfraudulentlyrowalittlewayintothemist,speciallytodeceivethemandcompasstheirdeaths.OurcaptainhadforeseenfromthefirstthatwemustbeinaplacecalledtheEasternpassage;andsowewere.Itwasaboutthelastplaceintheworldinwhichwehadanybusinessorreasontobe,

butasuddenfog,andsomeerroronthepilotspart,werethecause.Weweresurroundedbybanks,androcks,andshoalsofallkinds,buthadhappilydrifted,itseemed,upontheonlysafespeckthatwastobefoundthereabouts.Easedbythisreport,andbytheassurancethatthetidewaspasttheebb,weturnedinatthreeoclockinthemorning.

Iwasdressingabouthalf-pastninenextday,whenthenoiseabovehurriedmeondeck.WhenIhadleftitovernight,itwasdark,foggy,anddamp,andtherewerebleakhillsallroundus.Now,wewereglidingdownasmooth,broadstream,attherateofelevenmilesanhour:ourcoloursflyinggaily;ourcrewriggedoutintheirsmartestclothes;ourofficersinuniformagain;thesunshiningasonabrilliantAprildayinEngland;thelandstretchedoutoneitherside,streakedwithlightpatchesofsnow;whitewoodenhouses;peopleattheirdoors;teleg

raphsworking;flagshoisted;wharfsappearing;ships;quayscrowdedwithpeople;distantnoises;shouts;menandboysrunningdownsteepplacestowardsthepier:allmorebrightandgayandfreshtoourunusedeyesthanwordscanpaintthem.Wecametoawharf,pavedwithupliftedfaces;gotalongside,andweremadefast,aftersomeshoutingandstrainingofcables;darted,ascoreofusalongthegangway,almostassoonasitwasthrustouttomeetus,andbeforeithadreachedtheshipandleapeduponthefirmgladearthagain!

IsupposethisHalifaxwouldhaveappearedanElysium,thoughithadbeenacuriosityofuglydulness.ButIcarriedawaywithmeamostpleasantimpressionofthetownanditsinhabitants,andhavepreservedittothishour.NorwasitwithoutregretthatIcamehome,withouthavingfoundanopportunityofreturningthither,andoncemoreshakinghandswiththefriendsImadethatday.

IthappenedtobetheopeningoftheLegislativeCouncilandGeneralAssembly,atwhichceremonialtheformsobservedonthecommencementofanewSessionofParliamentinEnglandweresocloselycopied,andsogravelypresentedonasmallscale,thatitwaslikelookingatWestminsterthroughthewrongendofatelescope.Thegovernor,asherMajestysrepresentative,deliveredwhatmaybecalledtheSpeechfromtheThrone.Hesaidwhathehadtosaymanfullyandwell.ThemilitarybandoutsidethebuildingstruckupGodsavetheQueenwithgreatvigourbeforehisExcellencyhadquitefinished;thepeopleshouted;theinsrubbedtheirhands;theoutsshooktheirheads;theGovernmentpartysaidthereneverwassuch



agoodspeech;theOppositiondeclaredthereneverwassuchabadone;theSpeakerandmembersoftheHouseofAssemblywithdrewfromthebartosayagreatdealamongthemselvesanddoalittle:and,inshort,everythingwenton,andpromisedtogoon,justasitdoesathomeuponthelikeoccasions.

Thetownisbuiltonthesideofahill,thehighestpointbeingcommandedbyastrongfortress,notyetquitefinished.Severalstreetsofgoodbreadthandappearanceextendfromitssummittothewater-side,andareintersectedbycrossstreetsrunningparallelwiththeriver.Thehousesarechieflyofwood.Themarketisabundantlysupplied;andprovisionsareexceedinglycheap.Theweatherbeingunusuallymildatthattimefortheseasonoftheyear,therewasnosleighing:buttherewereplentyofthosevehiclesinyardsandby-places,andsomeofthem,fromthegorgeousqualityoftheirdecorations,mighthavegoneonwithoutalterationastriumphalcarsinamelodramaatAstleys.Thedaywasuncommonlyfine;theairbracingandhealthful;thewholeaspectofthetowncheerful,thriving,andindustrious.

Welaytheresevenhours,todeliverandexchangethemails.Atlength,havingcollectedallourbagsandallourpassengers(includingtwoorthreechoicespirits,who,havingindulgedtoofreelyinoystersandchampagne,werefoundlyinginsensibleontheirbacksinunfrequentedstreets),theengineswereagainputinmotion,andwestoodoffforBoston.

EncounteringsquallyweatheragainintheBayofFundy,wetumbledandrolledab

outasusualallthatnightandallnextday.Onthenextafternoon,thatistosay,onSaturday,thetwenty-secondofJanuary,anAmericanpilot-boatcamealongside,andsoonafterwardstheBritanniasteam-packet,fromLiverpool,eighteendaysout,wastelegraphedatBoston.

TheindescribableinterestwithwhichIstrainedmyeyes,asthefirstpatchesofAmericansoilpeepedlikemolehillsfromthegreensea,andfollowedthem,astheyswelled,byslowandalmostimperceptibledegrees,intoacontinuouslineofcoast,canhardlybeexaggerated.Asharpkeenwindblewdeadagainstus;ahardfrostprevailedonshore;andthecoldwasmostsevere.Yettheairwassointenselyclear,anddry,andbright,thatthetemperaturewasnotonlyendurable,butdelicious.

HowIremainedondeck,staringaboutme,untilwecamealongsidethedock,andhow,thoughIhadhadasmanyeyesasArgus,Ishouldhavehadthemallwideopen,andallemployedonnewobjectsaretopicswhichIwillnotprolongthischaptertodiscuss.NeitherwillImorethanhintatmyforeigner-likemistakeinsupposingthatapartyofmostactivepersons,whoscrambledonboardattheperiloftheirlivesasweapproachedthewharf,werenewsmen,answeringtothatindustriousclassathome;whereas,despitetheleathernwalletsofnewsslungaboutthenecksofsome,andthebroadsheetsinthehandsofall,theywereEditors,whoboardedshipsinperson(asonegentlemaninaworstedcomforterinformedme),becausetheylikedtheexcitementofit.Sufficeitinthisplacetosay,thatoneoftheseinvaders,withareadycourtesyforwhichIthankhimheremostgratefully,wentonbeforetoorderroomsatthehotel;andthatwhenIfollowed,asIsoondid,Ifoundmyselfrollingthroughthelongpassageswithaninvolunt

aryimitationofthegaitofMr.T.P.Cooke,inanewnauticalmelodrama.

Dinner,ifyouplease,saidItothewaiter.

When?saidthewaiter.

Asquickaspossible,saidI.

Rightaway?saidthewaiter.



Afteramomentshesitation,IansweredNo,athazard.

NOTrightaway?criedthewaiter,withanamountofsurprisethatmademestart.

Ilookedathimdoubtfully,andreturned,No;Iwouldratherhaveitinthisprivateroom.Ilikeitverymuch.

Atthis,Ireallythoughtthewaitermusthavegoneoutofhismind:asIbelievehewouldhavedone,butfortheinterpositionofanotherman,whowhisperedinhisear,Directly.

Well!andthatsafact!saidthewaiter,lookinghelplesslyatme:Rightaway.

IsawnowthatRightawayandDirectlywereoneandthesamething.SoIreversedmpreviousanswer,andsatdowntodinnerintenminutesafterwards;andacapitaldinneritwas.

Thehotel(averyexcellentone)iscalledtheTremontHouse.Ithasmoregalleries,colonnades,piazzas,andpassagesthanIcanremember,orthereaderwouldbelieve.

ChapterIIIBoston

INallthepublicestablishmentsofAmerica,theutmostcourtesyprevails.MostofourDepartmentsaresusceptibleofconsiderableimprovementinthisrespect,buttheCustom-houseaboveallotherswoulddowelltotakeexamplefromtheUnitedStatesandrenderitselfsomewhatlessodiousandoffensivetoforeigners.TheservilerapacityoftheFrenchofficialsissufficientlycontemptible;butthereisasurlyboorishincivilityaboutourmen,alikedisgustingtoallpersonswhofallintotheirhands,anddiscreditabletothenationthatkeepssuchill-conditionedcurssnarlingaboutitsgates.

WhenIlandedinAmerica,IcouldnothelpbeingstronglyimpressedwiththecontrasttheirCustom-housepresented,andtheattention,politenessandgoodhumourwithwhichitsofficersdischargedtheirduty.

AswedidnotlandatBoston,inconsequenceofsomedetentionatthewharf,untilafterdark,IreceivedmyfirstimpressionsofthecityinwalkingdowntotheCustom-houseonthemorningafterourarrival,whichwasSunday.Iamafraidtosay,bytheway,howmanyoffersofpewsandseatsinchurchforthatmorningweremadetous,byformalnoteofinvitation,beforewehadhalffinishedourfirstdinnerinAmerica,butifImaybeallowedtomakeamoderateguess,withoutgoingintonicercalculation,Ishouldsaythatatleastasmanysittingswereprofferedus,aswouldhaveaccommodatedascoreortwoofgrown-upfamilies.Thenumberofcreedsandformsofreligiontowhichthepleasureofourcompanywasrequested,wasinveryfairproportion.

Notbeingable,intheabsenceofanychangeofclothes,togotochurchthatday,wewerecompelledtodeclinethesekindnesses,oneandall;andIwasrelucta

ntlyobligedtoforegothedelightofhearingDr.Channing,whohappenedtopreachthatmorningforthefirsttimeinaverylonginterval.Imentionthenameofthisdistinguishedandaccomplishedman(withwhomIsoonafterwardshadthepleasureofbecomingpersonallyacquainted),thatImayhavethegratificationofrecordingmyhumbletributeofadmirationandrespectforhishighabilitiesandcharacter;andfortheboldphilanthropywithwhichhehaseveropposedhimselftothatmosthideousblotandfouldisgraceSlavery.

ToreturntoBoston.WhenIgotintothestreetsuponthisSundaymorning,theairwassoclear,thehousesweresobrightandgay:thesignboardswerepainted



insuchgaudycolours;thegildedlettersweresoverygolden;thebricksweresoveryred,thestonewassoverywhite,theblindsandarearailingsweresoverygreen,theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorssomarvellouslybrightandtwinkling;andallsoslightandunsubstantialinappearancethateverythoroughfareinthecitylookedexactlylikeasceneinapantomime.Itrarelyhappensinthebusinessstreetsthatatradesman,ifImayventuretocallanybodyatradesman,whereeverybodyisamerchant,residesabovehisstore;sothatmanyoccupationsareoftencarriedoninonehouse,andthewholefrontiscoveredwithboardsandinscriptions.AsIwalkedalong,Ikeptglancingupattheseboards,confidentlyexpectingtoseeafewofthemchangeintosomething;andIneverturnedacornersuddenlywithoutlookingoutfortheclownandpantaloon,who,Ihadnodoubt,werehidinginadoorwayorbehindsomepillarcloseathand.AstoHarlequinandColumbine,Idiscoveredimmediatelythattheylodged(theyarealwayslookingafterlodgingsinapantomime)ataverysmallclockmakersonestoryhigh,nearthehotel;which,inadditiontovarioussymbolsanddevices,almostcoveringthewholefront,hadagreatdialhangingouttobejumpedthrough,ofcourse.

Thesuburbsare,ifpossible,evenmoreunsubstantial-lookingthanthecity.Thewhitewoodenhouses(sowhitethatitmakesonewinktolookatthem),withtheirgreenjalousieblinds,aresosprinkledanddroppedaboutinalldirections,withoutseemingtohaveanyrootatallintheground;andthesmallchurchesandchapelsaresoprim,andbright,andhighlyvarnished;thatIalmostbelievedthewholeaffaircouldbetakenuppiecemeallikeachildstoy,andcrammedinto

alittlebox.

Thecityisabeautifulone,andcannotfail,Ishouldimagine,toimpressallstrangersveryfavourably.Theprivatedwelling-housesare,forthemostpart,largeandelegant;theshopsextremelygood;andthepublicbuildingshandsome.TheStateHouseisbuiltuponthesummitofahill,whichrisesgraduallyatfirst,andafterwardsbyasteepascent,almostfromthewatersedge.Infrontisagreenenclosure,calledtheCommon.Thesiteisbeautiful:andfromthetopthereisacharmingpanoramicviewofthewholetownandneighbourhood.Inadditiontoavarietyofcommodiousoffices,itcontainstwohandsomechambers;inonetheHouseofRepresentativesoftheStateholdtheirmeetings:intheother,theSenate.SuchproceedingsasIsawhere,wereconductedwithperfectgravityanddecorum;andwerecertainlycalculatedtoinspireattentionandrespect.

ThereisnodoubtthatmuchoftheintellectualrefinementandsuperiorityofBoston,isreferabletothequietinfluenceoftheUniversityofCambridge,whichiswithinthreeorfourmilesofthecity.Theresidentprofessorsatthatuniversityaregentlemenoflearningandvariedattainments;andare,withoutoneexceptionthatIcancalltomind,menwhowouldshedagraceupon,anddohonourto,anysocietyinthecivilisedworld.ManyoftheresidentgentryinBostonanditsneighbourhood,andIthinkIamnotmistakeninadding,alargemajorityofthosewhoareattachedtotheliberalprofessionsthere,havebeeneducatedatthissameschool.WhateverthedefectsofAmericanuniversitiesmaybe,theydisseminatenoprejudices;rearnobigots;diguptheburiedashesofnooldsuperstitions;neverinterposebetweenthepeopleandtheirimprovement;excludenomanbecauseofhisreligiousopinions;aboveall,intheirwholecourseofstudya

ndinstruction,recogniseaworld,andabroadonetoo,lyingbeyondthecollegewalls.

Itwasasourceofinexpressiblepleasuretometoobservethealmostimperceptible,butnotlesscertaineffect,wroughtbythisinstitutionamongthesmallcommunityofBoston;andtonoteateveryturnthehumanisingtastesanddesiresithasengendered;theaffectionatefriendshipstowhichithasgivenrise;theamountofvanityandprejudiceithasdispelled.ThegoldencalftheyworshipatBostonisapigmycomparedwiththegianteffigiessetupinotherpartsofthatvastcounting-housewhichliesbeyondtheAtlantic;andthealmightydollarsin



ksintosomethingcomparativelyinsignificant,amidstawholePantheonofbettergods.

Aboveall,IsincerelybelievethatthepublicinstitutionsandcharitiesofthiscapitalofMassachusettsareasnearlyperfect,asthemostconsideratewisdom,benevolence,andhumanity,canmakethem.Ineverinmylifewasmoreaffectedbythecontemplationofhappiness,undercircumstancesofprivationandbereavement,thaninmyvisitstotheseestablishments.

ItisagreatandpleasantfeatureofallsuchinstitutionsinAmerica,thattheyareeithersupportedbytheStateorassistedbytheState;or(intheeventoftheirnotneedingitshelpinghand)thattheyactinconcertwithit,andareemphaticallythepeoples.Icannotbutthink,withaviewtotheprincipleanditstendencytoelevateordepressthecharacteroftheindustriousclasses,thataPublicCharityisimmeasurablybetterthanaPrivateFoundation,nomatterhowmunificentlythelattermaybeendowed.Inourowncountry,whereithasnot,untilwithintheselaterdays,beenaverypopularfashionwithgovernmentstodisplayanyextraordinaryregardforthegreatmassofthepeopleortorecognisetheirexistenceasimprovablecreatures,privatecharities,unexampledinthehistoryoftheearth,havearisen,todoanincalculableamountofgoodamongthedestituteandafflicted.Butthegovernmentofthecountry,havingneitheractnorpartinthem,isnotinthereceiptofanyportionofthegratitudetheyinspire;and,offeringverylittleshelterorreliefbeyondthatwhichistobefoundintheworkhouseandthejail,hascome,notunnaturally,tobelookeduponby

thepoorratherasasternmaster,quicktocorrectandpunish,thanakindprotector,mercifulandvigilantintheirhourofneed.

Themaximthatoutofevilcomethgood,isstronglyillustratedbytheseestablishmentsathome;astherecordsofthePrerogativeOfficeinDoctorsCommonscanabundantlyprove.Someimmenselyricholdgentlemanorlady,surroundedbyneedyrelatives,makes,uponalowaverage,awilla-week.Theoldgentlemanorlady,neververyremarkableinthebestoftimesforgoodtemper,isfullofachesandpainsfromheadtofoot;fulloffanciesandcaprices;fullofspleen,distrust,suspicion,anddislike.Tocanceloldwills,andinventnewones,isatlastthesolebusinessofsuchatestatorsexistence;andrelationsandfriends(someofwhomhavebeenbredupdistinctlytoinheritalargeshareoftheproperty,andhavebeen,fromtheircradles,speciallydisqualifiedfromdevotingthemselve

stoanyusefulpursuit,onthataccount)aresooftenandsounexpectedlyandsummarilycutoff,andreinstated,andcutoffagain,thatthewholefamily,downtotheremotestcousin,iskeptinaperpetualfever.Atlengthitbecomesplainthattheoldladyorgentlemanhasnotlongtolive;andtheplainerthisbecomes,themoreclearlytheoldladyorgentlemanperceivesthateverybodyisinaconspiracyagainsttheirpoorolddyingrelative;whereforetheoldladyorgentlemanmakesanotherlastwillpositivelythelastthistimeconcealsthesameinachinateapot,andexpiresnextday.Thenitturnsout,thatthewholeoftherealandpersonalestateisdividedbetweenhalf-a-dozencharities;andthatthedeadandgonetestatorhasinpurespitehelpedtodoagreatdealofgood,atthecostofanimmenseamountofevilpassionandmisery.

ThePerkinsInstitutionandMassachusettsAsylumfortheBlind,atBoston,issu

perintendedbyabodyoftrusteeswhomakeanannualreporttothecorporation.Theindigentblindofthatstateareadmittedgratuitously.ThosefromtheadjoiningstateofConnecticut,orfromthestatesofMaine,Vermont,orNewHampshire,areadmittedbyawarrantfromthestatetowhichtheyrespectivelybelong;or,failingthat,mustfindsecurityamongtheirfriends,forthepaymentofabouttwentypoundsEnglishfortheirfirstyearsboardandinstruction,andtenforthesecond.Afterthefirstyear,saythetrustees,anaccountcurrentwillbeopenedwitheachpupil;hewillbechargedwiththeactualcostofhisboard,whichwillnotexceedtwodollarsperweek;atriflemorethaneightshillingsEnglish;andhewillbecreditedwiththeamountpaidforhimbythestate,orbyhisfri



ends;alsowithhisearningsoverandabovethecostofthestockwhichheuses;sothatallhisearningsoveronedollarperweekwillbehisown.Bythethirdyearitwillbeknownwhetherhisearningswillmorethanpaytheactualcostofhisboard;iftheyshould,hewillhaveitathisoptiontoremainandreceivehisearnings,ornot.Thosewhoproveunabletoearntheirownlivelihoodwillnotberetained;asitisnotdesirabletoconverttheestablishmentintoanalms-house,ortoretainanybutworkingbeesinthehive.Thosewhobyphysicalormentalimbecilityaredisqualifiedfromwork,aretherebydisqualifiedfrombeingmembersofanindustriouscommunity;andtheycanbebetterprovidedforinestablishmentsfittedfortheinfirm.

Iwenttoseethisplaceoneveryfinewintermorning:anItalianskyabove,andtheairsoclearandbrightoneveryside,thatevenmyeyes,whicharenoneofthebest,couldfollowtheminutelinesandscrapsoftraceryindistantbuildings.LikemostotherpublicinstitutionsinAmerica,ofthesameclass,itstandsamileortwowithoutthetown,inacheerfulhealthyspot;andisanairy,spacious,handsomeedifice.Itisbuiltuponaheight,commandingtheharbour.WhenIpausedforamomentatthedoor,andmarkedhowfreshandfreethewholescenewaswhatsparklingbubblesglanceduponthewaves,andwelledupeverymomenttothesurface,asthoughtheworldbelow,likethatabove,wereradiantwiththebrightday,andgushingoverinitsfulnessoflight:whenIgazedfromsailtosailawayuponashipatsea,atinyspeckofshiningwhite,theonlyclouduponthestill,deep,distantblueand,turning,sawablindboywithhissightlessfaceaddressedthatway,asthoughhetoohadsomesensewithinhimofthegl

oriousdistance:Ifeltakindofsorrowthattheplaceshouldbesoverylight,andastrangewishthatforhissakeitweredarker.Itwasbutmomentary,ofcourse,andamerefancy,butIfeltitkeenlyforallthat.

Thechildrenwereattheirdailytasksindifferentrooms,exceptafewwhowerealreadydismissed,andwereatplay.Here,asinmanyinstitutions,nouniformisworn;andIwasverygladofit,fortworeasons.Firstly,becauseIamsurethatnothingbutsenselesscustomandwantofthoughtwouldreconcileustotheliveriesandbadgeswearesofondofathome.Secondly,becausetheabsenceofthesethingspresentseachchildtothevisitorinhisorherownpropercharacter,withitsindividualityunimpaired;notlostinadull,ugly,monotonousrepetitionofthesameunmeaninggarb:whichisreallyanimportantconsideration.Thewisdomofencouragingalittleharmlessprideinpersonalappearanceevenamo

ngtheblind,orthewhimsicalabsurdityofconsideringcharityandleatherbreechesinseparablecompanions,aswedo,requiresnocomment.

Goodorder,cleanliness,andcomfort,pervadedeverycornerofthebuilding.Thevariousclasses,whoweregatheredroundtheirteachers,answeredthequestionsputtothemwithreadinessandintelligence,andinaspiritofcheerfulcontestforprecedencewhichpleasedmeverymuch.Thosewhowereatplay,weregleesomeandnoisyasotherchildren.Morespiritualandaffectionatefriendshipsappearedtoexistamongthem,thanwouldbefoundamongotheryoungpersonssufferingundernodeprivation;butthisIexpectedandwaspreparedtofind.ItisapartofthegreatschemeofHeavensmercifulconsiderationfortheafflicted.

Inaportionofthebuilding,setapartforthatpurpose,arework-shopsforbli

ndpersonswhoseeducationisfinished,andwhohaveacquiredatrade,butwhocannotpursueitinanordinarymanufactorybecauseoftheirdeprivation.Severalpeoplewereatworkhere;makingbrushes,mattresses,andsoforth;andthecheerfulness,industry,andgoodorderdiscernibleineveryotherpartofthebuilding,extendedtothisdepartmentalso.

Ontheringingofabell,thepupilsallrepaired,withoutanyguideorleader,toaspaciousmusic-hall,wheretheytooktheirseatsinanorchestraerectedforthatpurpose,andlistenedwithmanifestdelighttoavoluntaryontheorgan,playedbyoneofthemselves.Atitsconclusion,theperformer,aboyofnineteen



ortwenty,gaveplacetoagirl;andtoheraccompanimenttheyallsangahymn,andafterwardsasortofchorus.Itwasverysadtolookuponandhearthem,happythoughtheirconditionunquestionablywas;andIsawthatoneblindgirl,who(beingforthetimedeprivedoftheuseofherlimbs,byillness)satclosebesidemewithherfacetowardsthem,weptsilentlythewhileshelistened.

Itisstrangetowatchthefacesoftheblind,andseehowfreetheyarefromallconcealmentofwhatispassingintheirthoughts;observingwhich,amanwitheyesmayblushtocontemplatethemaskhewears.Allowingforoneshadeofanxiousexpressionwhichisneverabsentfromtheircountenances,andthelikeofwhichwemayreadilydetectinourownfacesifwetrytofeelourwayinthedark,everyidea,asitriseswithinthem,isexpressedwiththelightningsspeedandnaturestruth.Ifthecompanyatarout,ordrawing-roomatcourt,couldonlyforonetimebeasunconsciousoftheeyesuponthemasblindmenandwomenare,whatsecretswouldcomeout,andwhataworkerofhypocrisythissight,thelossofwhichwesomuchpity,wouldappeartobe!

ThethoughtoccurredtomeasIsatdowninanotherroom,beforeagirl,blind,deaf,anddumb;destituteofsmell;andnearlysooftaste:beforeafairyoungcreaturewitheveryhumanfaculty,andhope,andpowerofgoodnessandaffection,inclosedwithinherdelicateframe,andbutoneoutwardsensethesenseoftouch.Thereshewas,beforeme;builtup,asitwere,inamarblecell,impervioustoanyrayoflight,orparticleofsound;withherpoorwhitehandpeepingthroughachinkinthewall,beckoningtosomegoodmanforhelp,thatanImmortal

soulmightbeawakened.

LongbeforeIlookeduponher,thehelphadcome.Herfacewasradiantwithintelligenceandpleasure.Herhair,braidedbyherownhands,wasboundaboutahead,whoseintellectualcapacityanddevelopmentwerebeautifullyexpressedinitsgracefuloutline,anditsbroadopenbrow;herdress,arrangedbyherself,wasapatternofneatnessandsimplicity;theworkshehadknitted,laybesideher;herwriting-bookwasonthedesksheleanedupon.Fromthemournfulruinofsuchbereavement,therehadslowlyrisenupthisgentle,tender,guileless,grateful-heartedbeing.

Likeotherinmatesofthathouse,shehadagreenribbonboundroundhereyelids.Adollshehaddressedlaynearupontheground.Itookitup,andsawthatsh

ehadmadeagreenfilletsuchassheworeherself,andfasteneditaboutitsmimiceyes.

Shewasseatedinalittleenclosure,madebyschool-desksandforms,writingherdailyjournal.Butsoonfinishingthispursuit,sheengagedinananimatedconversationwithateacherwhosatbesideher.Thiswasafavouritemistresswiththepoorpupil.Ifshecouldseethefaceofherfairinstructress,shewouldnotloveherless,Iamsure.

Ihaveextractedafewdisjointedfragmentsofherhistory,fromanaccount,writtenbythatonemanwhohasmadeherwhatsheis.Itisaverybeautifulandtouchingnarrative;andIwishIcouldpresentitentire.

HernameisLauraBridgman.ShewasborninHanover,NewHampshire,onthetwenty-firstofDecember,1829.Sheisdescribedashavingbeenaverysprightlyandprettyinfant,withbrightblueeyes.Shewas,however,sopunyandfeebleuntilshewasayearandahalfold,thatherparentshardlyhopedtorearher.Shewassubjecttoseverefits,whichseemedtorackherframealmostbeyondherpowerofendurance:andlifewasheldbythefeeblesttenure:butwhenayearandahalfold,sheseemedtorally;thedangeroussymptomssubsided;andattwentymonthsold,shewasperfectlywell.

Thenhermentalpowers,hithertostintedintheirgrowth,rapidlydevelopedthems



elves;andduringthefourmonthsofhealthwhichsheenjoyed,sheappears(makingdueallowanceforafondmothersaccount)tohavedisplayedaconsiderabledegreeofintelligence.

Butsuddenlyshesickenedagain;herdiseaseragedwithgreatviolenceduringfiveweeks,whenhereyesandearswereinflamed,suppurated,andtheircontentsweredischarged.Butthoughsightandhearingweregoneforever,thepoorchildssufferingswerenotended.Thefeverragedduringsevenweeks;forfivemonthsshewaskeptinbedinadarkenedroom;itwasayearbeforeshecouldwalkunsupported,andtwoyearsbeforeshecouldsitupallday.Itwasnowobservedthathersenseofsmellwasalmostentirelydestroyed;and,consequently,thathertastewasmuchblunted.

Itwasnotuntilfouryearsofagethatthepoorchildsbodilyhealthseemedrestored,andshewasabletoenteruponherapprenticeshipoflifeandtheworld.

Butwhatasituationwashers!Thedarknessandthesilenceofthetombwerearoundher:nomotherssmilecalledforthheransweringsmile,nofathersvoicetaughthertoimitatehissounds:they,brothersandsisters,werebutformsofmatterwhichresistedhertouch,butwhichdifferednotfromthefurnitureofthehouse,saveinwarmth,andinthepoweroflocomotion;andnotevenintheserespectsfromthedogandthecat.

Buttheimmortalspiritwhichhadbeenimplantedwithinhercouldnotdie,norbe

maimednormutilated;andthoughmostofitsavenuesofcommunicationwiththeworldwerecutoff,itbegantomanifestitselfthroughtheothers.Assoonasshecouldwalk,shebegantoexploretheroom,andthenthehouse;shebecamefamiliarwiththeform,density,weight,andheat,ofeveryarticleshecouldlayherhandsupon.Shefollowedhermother,andfeltherhandsandarms,asshewasoccupiedaboutthehouse;andherdispositiontoimitate,ledhertorepeateverythingherself.Sheevenlearnedtosewalittle,andtoknit.

Thereaderwillscarcelyneedtobetold,however,thattheopportunitiesofcommunicatingwithher,werevery,verylimited;andthatthemoraleffectsofherwretchedstatesoonbegantoappear.Thosewhocannotbeenlightenedbyreason,canonlybecontrolledbyforce;andthis,coupledwithhergreatprivations,mustsoonhavereducedhertoaworseconditionthanthatofthebeaststhatperis

h,butfortimelyandunhoped-foraid.

Atthistime,Iwassofortunateastohearofthechild,andimmediatelyhastenedtoHanovertoseeher.Ifoundherwithawell-formedfigure;astrongly-marked,nervous-sanguinetemperament;alargeandbeautifully-shapedhead;andthewholesysteminhealthyaction.TheparentswereeasilyinducedtoconsenttohercomingtoBoston,andonthe4thofOctober,1837,theybroughthertotheInstitution.

Forawhile,shewasmuchbewildered;andafterwaitingabouttwoweeks,untilshebecameacquaintedwithhernewlocality,andsomewhatfamiliarwiththeinmates,theattemptwasmadetogiveherknowledgeofarbitrarysigns,bywhichshecouldinterchangethoughtswithothers.

Therewasoneoftwowaystobeadopted:eithertogoontobuildupalanguageofsignsonthebasisofthenaturallanguagewhichshehadalreadycommencedherself,ortoteachherthepurelyarbitrarylanguageincommonuse:thatis,togiveherasignforeveryindividualthing,ortogiveheraknowledgeoflettersbycombinationofwhichshemightexpressherideaoftheexistence,andthemodeandconditionofexistence,ofanything.Theformerwouldhavebeeneasy,butveryineffectual;thelatterseemedverydifficult,but,ifaccomplished,veryeffectual.Ideterminedthereforetotrythelatter.



Thefirstexperimentsweremadebytakingarticlesincommonuse,suchasknives,forks,spoons,keys,&c.,andpastinguponthemlabelswiththeirnamesprintedinraisedletters.Theseshefeltverycarefully,andsoon,ofcourse,distinguishedthatthecrookedlinesSPOON,differedasmuchfromthecrookedlinesKEY,asthespoondifferedfromthekeyinform.

Thensmalldetachedlabels,withthesamewordsprinteduponthem,wereputintoherhands;andshesoonobservedthattheyweresimilartotheonespastedonthearticles.SheshowedherperceptionofthissimilaritybylayingthelabelKEYuponthekey,andthelabelSPOONuponthespoon.Shewasencouragedherebythenaturalsignofapprobation,pattingonthehead.

Thesameprocesswasthenrepeatedwithallthearticleswhichshecouldhandle;andsheveryeasilylearnedtoplacetheproperlabelsuponthem.Itwasevident,however,thattheonlyintellectualexercisewasthatofimitationandmemory.SherecollectedthatthelabelBOOKwasplaceduponabook,andsherepeatedtheprocessfirstfromimitation,nextfrommemory,withonlythemotiveofloveofapprobation,butapparentlywithouttheintellectualperceptionofanyrelationbetweenthethings.

Afterawhile,insteadoflabels,theindividuallettersweregiventoherondetachedbitsofpaper:theywerearrangedsidebysidesoastospellBOOK,KEY,&c.;thentheyweremixedupinaheapandasignwasmadeforhertoarrangethemherselfsoastoexpressthewordsBOOK,KEY,&c.;andshedidso.

Hitherto,theprocesshadbeenmechanical,andthesuccessaboutasgreatasteachingaveryknowingdogavarietyoftricks.Thepoorchildhadsatinmuteamazement,andpatientlyimitatedeverythingherteacherdid;butnowthetruthbegantoflashuponher:herintellectbegantowork:sheperceivedthatherewasawaybywhichshecouldherselfmakeupasignofanythingthatwasinherownmind,andshowittoanothermind;andatoncehercountenancelightedupwithahumanexpression:itwasnolongeradog,orparrot:itwasanimmortalspirit,eagerlyseizinguponanewlinkofunionwithotherspirits!Icouldalmostfixuponthemomentwhenthistruthdawneduponhermind,andspreaditslighttohercountenance;Isawthatthegreatobstaclewasovercome;andthathenceforwardnothingbutpatientandpersevering,butplainandstraightforward,effortsweretobeused.

Theresultthusfar,isquicklyrelated,andeasilyconceived;butnotsowastheprocess;formanyweeksofapparentlyunprofitablelabourwerepassedbeforeitwaseffected.

Whenitwassaidabovethatasignwasmade,itwasintendedtosay,thattheactionwasperformedbyherteacher,shefeelinghishands,andthenimitatingthemotion.

Thenextstepwastoprocureasetofmetaltypes,withthedifferentlettersofthealphabetcastupontheirends;alsoaboard,inwhichweresquareholes,intowhichholesshecouldsetthetypes;sothatthelettersontheirendscouldalonebefeltabovethesurface.

Then,onanyarticlebeinghandedtoher,forinstance,apencil,orawatch,shewouldselectthecomponentletters,andarrangethemonherboard,andreadthemwithapparentpleasure.

Shewasexercisedforseveralweeksinthisway,untilhervocabularybecameextensive;andthentheimportantstepwastakenofteachingherhowtorepresentthedifferentlettersbythepositionofherfingers,insteadofthecumbrousapparatusoftheboardandtypes.Sheaccomplishedthisspeedilyandeasily,forherintellecthadbeguntoworkinaidofherteacher,andherprogresswasrapid.



Thiswastheperiod,aboutthreemonthsaftershehadcommenced,thatthefirstreportofhercasewasmade,inwhichitwasstatedthatshehasjustlearnedthemanualalphabet,asusedbythedeafmutes,anditisasubjectofdelightandwondertoseehowrapidly,correctly,andeagerly,shegoesonwithherlabours.Herteachergivesheranewobject,forinstance,apencil,firstletsherexamineit,andgetanideaofitsuse,thenteachesherhowtospellitbymakingthesignsfortheletterswithherownfingers:thechildgraspsherhand,andfeelsherfingers,asthedifferentlettersareformed;sheturnsherheadalittleononesidelikeapersonlisteningclosely;herlipsareapart;sheseemsscarcelytobreathe;andhercountenance,atfirstanxious,graduallychangestoasmile,asshecomprehendsthelesson.Shethenholdsuphertinyfingers,andspellsthewordinthemanualalphabet;next,shetakeshertypesandarrangesherletters;andlast,tomakesurethatsheisright,shetakesthewholeofthetypescomposingtheword,andplacesthemuponorincontactwiththepencil,orwhatevertheobjectmaybe.

Thewholeofthesucceedingyearwaspassedingratifyinghereagerinquiriesforthenamesofeveryobjectwhichshecouldpossiblyhandle;inexercisingherintheuseofthemanualalphabet;inextendingineverypossiblewayherknowledgeofthephysicalrelationsofthings;andinpropercareofherhealth.

Attheendoftheyearareportofhercasewasmade,fromwhichthefollowingisanextract.

Ithasbeenascertainedbeyondthepossibilityofdoubt,thatshecannotseearayoflight,cannotheartheleastsound,andneverexerciseshersenseofsmell,ifshehaveany.Thusherminddwellsindarknessandstillness,asprofoundasthatofaclosedtombatmidnight.Ofbeautifulsights,andsweetsounds,andpleasantodours,shehasnoconception;nevertheless,sheseemsashappyandplayfulasabirdoralamb;andtheemploymentofherintellectualfaculties,ortheacquirementofanewidea,givesheravividpleasure,whichisplainlymarkedinherexpressivefeatures.Sheneverseemstorepine,buthasallthebuoyancyandgaietyofchildhood.Sheisfondoffunandfrolic,andwhenplayingwiththerestofthechildren,hershrilllaughsoundsloudestofthegroup.

Whenleftalone,sheseemsveryhappyifshehaveherknittingorsewing,andwill

busyherselfforhours;ifshehavenooccupation,sheevidentlyamusesherselfbyimaginarydialogues,orbyrecallingpastimpressions;shecountswithherfingers,orspellsoutnamesofthingswhichshehasrecentlylearned,inthemanualalphabetofthedeafmutes.Inthislonelyself-communionsheseemstoreason,reflect,andargue;ifshespellawordwrongwiththefingersofherrighthand,sheinstantlystrikesitwithherleft,asherteacherdoes,insignofdisapprobation;ifright,thenshepatsherselfuponthehead,andlookspleased.Shesometimespurposelyspellsawordwrongwiththelefthand,looksroguishforamomentandlaughs,andthenwiththerighthandstrikestheleft,asiftocorrectit.

Duringtheyearshehasattainedgreatdexterityintheuseofthemanualalphabetofthedeafmutes;andshespellsoutthewordsandsentenceswhichsheknows,

sofastandsodeftly,thatonlythoseaccustomedtothislanguagecanfollowwiththeeyetherapidmotionsofherfingers.

Butwonderfulasistherapiditywithwhichshewritesherthoughtsupontheair,stillmoresoistheeaseandaccuracywithwhichshereadsthewordsthuswrittenbyanother;graspingtheirhandsinhers,andfollowingeverymovementoftheirfingers,asletterafterletterconveystheirmeaningtohermind.Itisinthiswaythatsheconverseswithherblindplaymates,andnothingcanmoreforciblyshowthepowerofmindinforcingmattertoitspurposethanameetingbetweenthem.Forifgreattalentandskillarenecessaryfortwopantomimestopaint



theirthoughtsandfeelingsbythemovementsofthebody,andtheexpressionofthecountenance,howmuchgreaterthedifficultywhendarknessshroudsthemboth,andtheonecanhearnosound.

WhenLauraiswalkingthroughapassage-way,withherhandsspreadbeforeher,sheknowsinstantlyeveryoneshemeets,andpassesthemwithasignofrecognition:butifitbeagirlofherownage,andespeciallyifitbeoneofherfavourites,thereisinstantlyabrightsmileofrecognition,atwiningofarms,agraspingofhands,andaswifttelegraphinguponthetinyfingers;whoserapidevolutionsconveythethoughtsandfeelingsfromtheoutpostsofonemindtothoseoftheother.Therearequestionsandanswers,exchangesofjoyorsorrow,therearekissingsandpartings,justasbetweenlittlechildrenwithalltheirsenses.

Duringthisyear,andsixmonthsaftershehadlefthome,hermothercametovisither,andthesceneoftheirmeetingwasaninterestingone.

Themotherstoodsometime,gazingwithoverflowingeyesuponherunfortunatechild,who,allunconsciousofherpresence,wasplayingabouttheroom.PresentlyLauraranagainsther,andatoncebeganfeelingherhands,examiningherdress,andtryingtofindoutifsheknewher;butnotsucceedinginthis,sheturnedawayasfromastranger,andthepoorwomancouldnotconcealthepangshefelt,atfindingthatherbelovedchilddidnotknowher.

ShethengaveLauraastringofbeadswhichsheusedtowearathome,whichwere

recognisedbythechildatonce,who,withmuchjoy,putthemaroundherneck,andsoughtmeeagerlytosaysheunderstoodthestringwasfromherhome.

Themothernowsoughttocaressher,butpoorLaurarepelledher,preferringtobewithheracquaintances.

Anotherarticlefromhomewasnowgivenher,andshebegantolookmuchinterested;sheexaminedthestrangermuchcloser,andgavemetounderstandthatsheknewshecamefromHanover;sheevenenduredhercaresses,butwouldleaveherwithindifferenceattheslightestsignal.Thedistressofthemotherwasnowpainfultobehold;for,althoughshehadfearedthatsheshouldnotberecognised,thepainfulrealityofbeingtreatedwithcoldindifferencebyadarlingchild,wastoomuchforwomansnaturetobear.

Afterawhile,onthemothertakingholdofheragain,avagueideaseemedtoflitacrossLaurasmind,thatthiscouldnotbeastranger;shethereforefeltherhandsveryeagerly,whilehercountenanceassumedanexpressionofintenseinterest;shebecameverypale;andthensuddenlyred;hopeseemedstrugglingwithdoubtandanxiety,andneverwerecontendingemotionsmorestronglypainteduponthehumanface:atthismomentofpainfuluncertainty,themotherdrewherclosetoherside,andkissedherfondly,whenatoncethetruthflasheduponthechild,andallmistrustandanxietydisappearedfromherface,aswithanexpressionofexceedingjoysheeagerlynestledtothebosomofherparent,andyieldedherselftoherfondembraces.

Afterthis,thebeadswereallunheeded;theplaythingswhichwereofferedtoher

wereutterlydisregarded;herplaymates,forwhombutamomentbeforeshegladlyleftthestranger,nowvainlystrovetopullherfromhermother;andthoughsheyieldedherusualinstantaneousobediencetomysignaltofollowme,itwasevidentlywithpainfulreluctance.Sheclungclosetome,asifbewilderedandfearful;andwhen,afteramoment,Itookhertohermother,shesprangtoherarms,andclungtoherwitheagerjoy.

Thesubsequentpartingbetweenthem,showedaliketheaffection,theintelligence,andtheresolutionofthechild.



Lauraaccompaniedhermothertothedoor,clingingclosetoheralltheway,untiltheyarrivedatthethreshold,whereshepaused,andfeltaround,toascertainwhowasnearher.Perceivingthematron,ofwhomsheisveryfond,shegraspedherwithonehand,holdingonconvulsivelytohermotherwiththeother;andthusshestoodforamoment:thenshedroppedhermothershand;putherhandkerchieftohereyes;andturninground,clungsobbingtothematron;whilehermotherdeparted,withemotionsasdeepasthoseofherchild.

Ithasbeenremarkedinformerreports,thatshecandistinguishdifferentdegreesofintellectinothers,andthatshesoonregarded,almostwithcontempt,anew-comer,when,afterafewdays,shediscoveredherweaknessofmind.Thisunamiablepartofhercharacterhasbeenmorestronglydevelopedduringthepastyear.

Shechoosesforherfriendsandcompanions,thosechildrenwhoareintelligent,andcantalkbestwithher;andsheevidentlydislikestobewiththosewhoaredeficientinintellect,unless,indeed,shecanmakethemserveherpurposes,whichsheisevidentlyinclinedtodo.Shetakesadvantageofthem,andmakesthemwaituponher,inamannerthatsheknowsshecouldnotexactofothers;andinvariouswaysshowsherSaxonblood.

Sheisfondofhavingotherchildrennoticedandcaressedbytheteachers,andthosewhomsherespects;butthismustnotbecarriedtoofar,orshebecomesjealous.Shewantstohavehershare,which,ifnotthelions,isthegreaterpart;a

ndifshedoesnotgetit,shesays,MYMOTHERWILLLOVEME.

Hertendencytoimitationissostrong,thatitleadshertoactionswhichmustbeentirelyincomprehensibletoher,andwhichcangivehernootherpleasurethanthegratificationofaninternalfaculty.Shehasbeenknowntositforhalfanhour,holdingabookbeforehersightlesseyes,andmovingherlips,asshehasobservedseeingpeopledowhenreading.

Sheonedaypretendedthatherdollwassick;andwentthroughallthemotionsoftendingit,andgivingitmedicine;shethenputitcarefullytobed,andplacedabottleofhotwatertoitsfeet,laughingallthetimemostheartily.WhenIcamehome,sheinsisteduponmygoingtoseeit,andfeelitspulse;andwhenItoldhertoputablisteronitsback,sheseemedtoenjoyitamazingly,andal

mostscreamedwithdelight.

Hersocialfeelings,andheraffections,areverystrong;andwhensheissittingatwork,oratherstudies,bythesideofoneofherlittlefriends,shewillbreakofffromhertaskeveryfewmoments,tohugandkissthemwithanearnestnessandwarmththatistouchingtobehold.

Whenleftalone,sheoccupiesandapparentlyamusesherself,andseemsquitecontented;andsostrongseemstobethenaturaltendencyofthoughttoputonthegarboflanguage,thatsheoftensoliloquizesintheFINGERLANGUAGE,slowandtediousasitis.Butitisonlywhenalone,thatsheisquiet:forifshebecomessensibleofthepresenceofanyonenearher,sheisrestlessuntilshecansitclosebesidethem,holdtheirhand,andconversewiththembysigns.

Inherintellectualcharacteritispleasingtoobserveaninsatiablethirstforknowledge,andaquickperceptionoftherelationsofthings.Inhermoralcharacter,itisbeautifultobeholdhercontinualgladness,herkeenenjoymentofexistence,herexpansivelove,herunhesitatingconfidence,hersympathywithsuffering,herconscientiousness,truthfulness,andhopefulness.

SuchareafewfragmentsfromthesimplebutmostinterestingandinstructivehistoryofLauraBridgman.Thenameofhergreatbenefactorandfriend,whowritesit,isDr.Howe.Therearenotmanypersons,Ihopeandbelieve,who,afterrea



dingthesepassages,caneverhearthatnamewithindifference.

AfurtheraccounthasbeenpublishedbyDr.Howe,sincethereportfromwhichIhavejustquoted.Itdescribesherrapidmentalgrowthandimprovementduringtwelvemonthsmore,andbringsherlittlehistorydowntotheendoflastyear.Itisveryremarkable,thataswedreaminwords,andcarryonimaginaryconversations,inwhichwespeakbothforourselvesandfortheshadowswhoappeartousinthosevisionsofthenight,soshe,havingnowords,usesherfingeralphabetinhersleep.Andithasbeenascertainedthatwhenherslumberisbroken,andismuchdisturbedbydreams,sheexpressesherthoughtsinanirregularandconfusedmanneronherfingers:justasweshouldmurmurandmutterthemindistinctly,inthelikecircumstances.

IturnedovertheleavesofherDiary,andfounditwritteninafairlegiblesquarehand,andexpressedintermswhichwerequiteintelligiblewithoutanyexplanation.OnmysayingthatIshouldliketoseeherwriteagain,theteacherwhosatbesideher,badeher,intheirlanguage,signhernameuponaslipofpaper,twiceorthrice.Indoingso,Iobservedthatshekeptherlefthandalwaystouching,andfollowingup,herright,inwhich,ofcourse,sheheldthepen.Nolinewasindicatedbyanycontrivance,butshewrotestraightandfreely.

Shehad,untilnow,beenquiteunconsciousofthepresenceofvisitors;but,havingherhandplacedinthatofthegentlemanwhoaccompaniedme,sheimmediatelyexpressedhisnameuponherteacherspalm.Indeedhersenseoftouchisnowsoe

xquisite,thathavingbeenacquaintedwithapersononce,shecanrecognisehimorherafteralmostanyinterval.Thisgentlemanhadbeeninhercompany,Ibelieve,butveryseldom,andcertainlyhadnotseenherformanymonths.Myhandsherejectedatonce,asshedoesthatofanymanwhoisastrangertoher.Butsheretainedmywifeswithevidentpleasure,kissedher,andexamedherdresswithagirlscuriosityandinterest.

Shewasmerryandcheerful,andshowedmuchinnocentplayfulnessinherintercoursewithherteacher.Herdelightonrecognisingafavouriteplayfellowandcompanionherselfablindgirlwhosilently,andwithanequalenjoymentofthecomingsurprise,tookaseatbesideher,wasbeautifultowitness.Itelicitedfromheratfirst,asotherslightcircumstancesdidtwiceorthriceduringmyvisit,anuncouthnoisewhichwasratherpainfultohear.Butofherteachertouching

herlips,sheimmediatelydesisted,andembracedherlaughinglyandaffectionately.

Ihadpreviouslybeenintoanotherchamber,whereanumberofblindboyswereswinging,andclimbing,andengagedinvarioussports.Theyallclamoured,asweentered,totheassistant-master,whoaccompaniedus,Lookatme,Mr.Hart!Please,Mr.Hart,lookatme!evincing,Ithought,eveninthis,ananxietypeculiartotheircondition,thattheirlittlefeatsofagilityshouldbeSEEN.Amongthemwasasmalllaughingfellow,whostoodaloof,entertaininghimselfwithagymnasticexerciseforbringingthearmsandchestintoplay;whichheenjoyedmightily;especiallywhen,inthrustingouthisrightarm,hebroughtitintocontactwithanotherboy.LikeLauraBridgman,thisyoungchildwasdeaf,anddumb,andblind.

Dr.Howesaccountofthispupilsfirstinstructionissoverystriking,andsointimatelyconnectedwithLauraherself,thatIcannotrefrainfromashortextract.ImaypremisethatthepoorboysnameisOliverCaswell;thatheisthirteenyearsofage;andthathewasinfullpossessionofallhisfaculties,untilthreeyearsandfourmonthsold.Hewasthenattackedbyscarletfever;infourweeksbecamedeaf;inafewweeksmore,blind;insixmonths,dumb.Heshowedhisanxioussenseofthislastdeprivation,byoftenfeelingthelipsofotherpersonswhentheyweretalking,andthenputtinghishanduponhisown,asiftoassurehimselfthathehadthemintherightposition.



Histhirstforknowledge,saysDr.Howe,proclaimeditselfassoonasheenteredthehouse,byhiseagerexaminationofeverythinghecouldfeelorsmellinhisnewlocation.Forinstance,treadingupontheregisterofafurnace,heinstantlystoopeddown,andbegantofeelit,andsoondiscoveredthewayinwhichtheupperplatemoveduponthelowerone;butthiswasnotenoughforhim,solyingdownuponhisface,heappliedhistonguefirsttoone,thentotheother,andseemedtodiscoverthattheywereofdifferentkindsofmetal.

Hissignswereexpressive:andthestrictlynaturallanguage,laughing,crying,sighing,kissing,embracing,&c.,wasperfect.

Someoftheanalogicalsignswhich(guidedbyhisfacultyofimitation)hehadcontrived,werecomprehensible;suchasthewavingmotionofhishandforthemotionofaboat,thecircularoneforawheel,&c.

Thefirstobjectwastobreakuptheuseofthesesignsandtosubstituteforthemtheuseofpurelyarbitraryones.

ProfitingbytheexperienceIhadgainedintheothercases,Iomittedseveralstepsoftheprocessbeforeemployed,andcommencedatoncewiththefingerlanguage.Taking,therefore,severalarticleshavingshortnames,suchaskey,cup,mug,&c.,andwithLauraforanauxiliary,Isatdown,andtakinghishand,placeditupononeofthem,andthenwithmyown,madethelettersKEY.Hefeltmyhan

dseagerlywithbothofhis,andonmyrepeatingtheprocess,heevidentlytriedtoimitatethemotionsofmyfingers.Inafewminuteshecontrivedtofeelthemotionsofmyfingerswithonehand,andholdingouttheotherhetriedtoimitatethem,laughingmostheartilywhenhesucceeded.Laurawasby,interestedeventoagitation;andthetwopresentedasingularsight:herfacewasflushedandanxious,andherfingerstwininginamongourssocloselyastofolloweverymotion,butsoslightlyasnottoembarrassthem;whileOliverstoodattentive,hisheadalittleaside,hisfaceturnedup,hislefthandgraspingmine,andhisrightheldout:ateverymotionofmyfingershiscountenancebetokenedkeenattention;therewasanexpressionofanxietyashetriedtoimitatethemotions;thenasmilecamestealingoutashethoughthecoulddoso,andspreadintoajoyouslaughthemomenthesucceeded,andfeltmepathishead,andLauraclaphimheartilyupontheback,andjumpupanddowninherjoy.

Helearnedmorethanahalf-dozenlettersinhalfanhour,andseemeddelightedwithhissuccess,atleastingainingapprobation.Hisattentionthenbegantoflag,andIcommencedplayingwithhim.Itwasevidentthatinallthishehadmerelybeenimitatingthemotionsofmyfingers,andplacinghishanduponthekey,cup,&c.,aspartoftheprocess,withoutanyperceptionoftherelationbetweenthesignandtheobject.

WhenhewastiredwithplayItookhimbacktothetable,andhewasquitereadytobeginagainhisprocessofimitation.HesoonlearnedtomakethelettersforKEY,PEN,PIN;andbyhavingtheobjectrepeatedlyplacedinhishand,heatlastperceivedtherelationIwishedtoestablishbetweenthem.Thiswasevident,because,whenImadethelettersPIN,orPEN,orCUP,hewouldselectthearticl

e.

Theperceptionofthisrelationwasnotaccompaniedbythatradiantflashofintelligence,andthatglowofjoy,whichmarkedthedelightfulmomentwhenLaurafirstperceivedit.Ithenplacedallthearticlesonthetable,andgoingawayalittledistancewiththechildren,placedOliversfingersinthepositionstospellKEY,onwhichLaurawentandbroughtthearticle:thelittlefellowseemedmuchamusedbythis,andlookedveryattentiveandsmiling.IthencausedhimtomakethelettersBREAD,andinaninstantLaurawentandbroughthimapiece:hesmelledatit;putittohislips;cockeduphisheadwithamostknowinglook;



seemedtoreflectamoment;andthenlaughedoutright,asmuchastosay,Aha!Iunderstandnowhowsomethingmaybemadeoutofthis.

Itwasnowclearthathehadthecapacityandinclinationtolearn,thathewasapropersubjectforinstruction,andneededonlyperseveringattention.Ithereforeputhiminthehandsofanintelligentteacher,nothingdoubtingofhisrapidprogress.

Wellmaythisgentlemancallthatadelightfulmoment,inwhichsomedistantpromiseofherpresentstatefirstgleameduponthedarkenedmindofLauraBridgman.Throughouthislife,therecollectionofthatmomentwillbetohimasourceofpure,unfadinghappiness;norwillitshinelessbrightlyontheeveningofhisdaysofNobleUsefulness.

Theaffectionwhichexistsbetweenthesetwothemasterandthepupilisasfarremovedfromallordinarycareandregard,asthecircumstancesinwhichithashaditsgrowth,areapartfromthecommonoccurrencesoflife.Heisoccupiednow,indevisingmeansofimpartingtoher,higherknowledge;andofconveyingtohersomeadequateideaoftheGreatCreatorofthatuniverseinwhich,darkandsilentandscentlessthoughitbetoher,shehassuchdeepdelightandgladenjoyment.

Yewhohaveeyesandseenot,andhaveearsandhearnot;yewhoareasthehypocritesofsadcountenances,anddisfigureyourfacesthatyemayseemuntoment

ofast;learnhealthycheerfulness,andmildcontentment,fromthedeaf,anddumb,andblind!Self-electedsaintswithgloomybrows,thissightless,earless,voicelesschildmayteachyoulessonsyouwilldowelltofollow.Letthatpoorhandofhersliegentlyonyourhearts;fortheremaybesomethinginitshealingtouchakintothatoftheGreatMasterwhosepreceptsyoumisconstrue,whoselessonsyoupervert,ofwhosecharityandsympathywithalltheworld,notoneamongyouinhisdailypracticeknowsasmuchasmanyoftheworstamongthosefallensinners,towhomyouareliberalinnothingbutthepreachmentofperdition!

AsIrosetoquittheroom,aprettylittlechildofoneoftheattendantscamerunningintogreetitsfather.Forthemoment,achildwitheyes,amongthesightlesscrowd,impressedmealmostaspainfullyastheblindboyintheporchhaddone,twohoursago.Ah!howmuchbrighterandmoredeeplyblue,glowingandri

chthoughithadbeenbefore,wasthescenewithout,contrastingwiththedarknessofsomanyyouthfulliveswithin!

AtSOUTHBOSTON,asitiscalled,inasituationexcellentlyadaptedforthepurpose,severalcharitableinstitutionsareclusteredtogether.Oneofthese,istheStateHospitalfortheinsane;admirablyconductedonthoseenlightenedprinciplesofconciliationandkindness,whichtwentyyearsagowouldhavebeenworsethanheretical,andwhichhavebeenacteduponwithsomuchsuccessinourownpauperAsylumatHanwell.Evinceadesiretoshowsomeconfidence,andreposesometrust,eveninmadpeople,saidtheresidentphysician,aswewalkedalongthegalleries,hispatientsflockingroundusunrestrained.Ofthosewhodenyordoubtthewisdomofthismaximafterwitnessingitseffects,iftherebesuchpeoplestillalive,IcanonlysaythatIhopeImayneverbesummonedasaJurymano

naCommissionofLunacywhereoftheyarethesubjects;forIshouldcertainlyfindthemoutoftheirsenses,onsuchevidencealone.

Eachwardinthisinstitutionisshapedlikealonggalleryorhall,withthedormitoriesofthepatientsopeningfromitoneitherhand.Heretheywork,read,playatskittles,andothergames;andwhentheweatherdoesnotadmitoftheirtakingexerciseoutofdoors,passthedaytogether.Inoneoftheserooms,seated,calmly,andquiteasamatterofcourse,amongathrongofmad-women,blackandwhite,werethephysicianswifeandanotherlady,withacoupleofchildren.Theseladiesweregracefulandhandsome;anditwasnotdifficulttoperceiveat



aglancethateventheirpresencethere,hadahighlybeneficialinfluenceonthepatientswhoweregroupedaboutthem.

Leaningherheadagainstthechimney-piece,withagreatassumptionofdignityandrefinementofmanner,satanelderlyfemale,inasmanyscrapsoffineryasMadgeWildfireherself.Herheadinparticularwassostrewnwithscrapsofgauzeandcottonandbitsofpaper,andhadsomanyqueeroddsandendsstuckallaboutit,thatitlookedlikeabirds-nest.Shewasradiantwithimaginaryjewels;worearichpairofundoubtedgoldspectacles;andgracefullydroppeduponherlap,asweapproached,averyoldgreasynewspaper,inwhichIdaresayshehadbeenreadinganaccountofherownpresentationatsomeForeignCourt.

Ihavebeenthusparticularindescribingher,becauseshewillservetoexemplifythephysiciansmannerofacquiringandretainingtheconfidenceofhispatients.

This,hesaidaloud,takingmebythehand,andadvancingtothefantasticfigurewithgreatpolitenessnotraisinghersuspicionsbytheslightestlookorwhisper,oranykindofaside,tome:Thisladyisthehostessofthismansion,sir.Itbelongstoher.Nobodyelsehasanythingwhatevertodowithit.Itisalargeestablishment,asyousee,andrequiresagreatnumberofattendants.Shelives,youobserve,intheveryfirststyle.Sheiskindenoughtoreceivemyvisits,andtopermitmywifeandfamilytoresidehere;forwhichitishardlynecessarytosay,wearemuchindebtedtoher.Sheisexceedinglycourteous,youperceiv

e,onthishintshebowedcondescendingly,andwillpermitmetohavethepleasureofintroducingyou:agentlemanfromEngland,Maam:newlyarrivedfromEngland,afteraverytempestuouspassage:Mr.Dickens,theladyofthehouse!

Weexchangedthemostdignifiedsalutationswithprofoundgravityandrespect,andsowenton.Therestofthemadwomenseemedtounderstandthejokeperfectly(notonlyinthiscase,butinalltheothers,excepttheirown),andbehighlyamusedbyit.Thenatureoftheirseveralkindsofinsanitywasmadeknowntomeinthesameway,andwelefteachoftheminhighgoodhumour.Notonlyisathoroughconfidenceestablished,bythosemeans,betweenthephysicianandpatient,inrespectofthenatureandextentoftheirhallucinations,butitiseasytounderstandthatopportunitiesareaffordedforseizinganymomentofreason,tostartlethembyplacingtheirowndelusionbeforetheminitsmostincongruous

andridiculouslight.

Everypatientinthisasylumsitsdowntodinnereverydaywithaknifeandfork;andinthemidstofthemsitsthegentleman,whosemannerofdealingwithhischarges,Ihavejustdescribed.Ateverymeal,moralinfluencealonerestrainsthemoreviolentamongthemfromcuttingthethroatsoftherest;buttheeffectofthatinfluenceisreducedtoanabsolutecertainty,andisfound,evenasameansofrestraint,tosaynothingofitasameansofcure,ahundredtimesmoreefficaciousthanallthestrait-waistcoats,fetters,andhandcuffs,thatignorance,prejudice,andcrueltyhavemanufacturedsincethecreationoftheworld.

Inthelabourdepartment,everypatientisasfreelytrustedwiththetoolsofhistradeasifhewereasaneman.Inthegarden,andonthefarm,theyworkwit

hspades,rakes,andhoes.Foramusement,theywalk,run,fish,paint,read,andrideouttotaketheairincarriagesprovidedforthepurpose.Theyhaveamongthemselvesasewingsocietytomakeclothesforthepoor,whichholdsmeetings,passesresolutions,nevercomestofisty-cuffsorbowie-knivesassaneassemblieshavebeenknowntodoelsewhere;andconductsallitsproceedingswiththegreatestdecorum.Theirritability,whichwouldotherwisebeexpendedontheirownflesh,clothes,andfurniture,isdissipatedinthesepursuits.Theyarecheerful,tranquil,andhealthy.

Onceaweektheyhaveaball,inwhichtheDoctorandhisfamily,withallthen



ursesandattendants,takeanactivepart.Dancesandmarchesareperformedalternately,totheenliveningstrainsofapiano;andnowandthensomegentlemanorlady(whoseproficiencyhasbeenpreviouslyascertained)obligesthecompanywithasong:nordoesiteverdegenerate,atatendercrisis,intoascreechorhowl;wherein,Imustconfess,Ishouldhavethoughtthedangerlay.Atanearlyhourtheyallmeettogetherforthesefestivepurposes;ateightoclockrefreshmentsareserved;andatninetheyseparate.

Immensepolitenessandgoodbreedingareobservedthroughout.TheyalltaketheirtonefromtheDoctor;andhemovesaveryChesterfieldamongthecompany.Likeotherassemblies,theseentertainmentsaffordafruitfultopicofconversationamongtheladiesforsomedays;andthegentlemenaresoanxioustoshineontheseoccasions,thattheyhavebeensometimesfoundpractisingtheirstepsinprivate,tocutamoredistinguishedfigureinthedance.

Itisobviousthatonegreatfeatureofthissystem,istheinculcationandencouragement,evenamongsuchunhappypersons,ofadecentself-respect.SomethingofthesamespiritpervadesalltheInstitutionsatSouthBoston.

ThereistheHouseofIndustry.Inthatbranchofit,whichisdevotedtothereceptionofoldorotherwisehelplesspaupers,thesewordsarepaintedonthewalls:WORTHYOFNOTICE.SELF-GOVERNMENT,QUIETUDE,ANDPEACE,AREBLESSINGS.Itisnotassumedandtakenforgrantedthatbeingtheretheymustbeevil-disposedandwickedpeople,beforewhoseviciouseyesitisnecessarytoflourishthreatsan

dharshrestraints.Theyaremetattheverythresholdwiththismildappeal.Allwithin-doorsisveryplainandsimple,asitoughttobe,butarrangedwithaviewtopeaceandcomfort.Itcostsnomorethananyotherplanofarrangement,butitspeaksanamountofconsiderationforthosewhoarereducedtoseekashelterthere,whichputsthematonceupontheirgratitudeandgoodbehaviour.Insteadofbeingparcelledoutingreat,long,ramblingwards,whereacertainamountofweazenlifemaymope,andpine,andshiver,alldaylong,thebuildingisdividedintoseparaterooms,eachwithitsshareoflightandair.Inthese,thebetterkindofpauperslive.Theyhaveamotiveforexertionandbecomingpride,inthedesiretomaketheselittlechamberscomfortableanddecent.

Idonotrememberonebutitwascleanandneat,andhaditsplantortwouponthewindow-sill,orrowofcrockeryupontheshelf,orsmalldisplayofcoloured

printsuponthewhitewashedwall,or,perhaps,itswoodenclockbehindthedoor.

Theorphansandyoungchildrenareinanadjoiningbuildingseparatefromthis,butapartofthesameInstitution.Somearesuchlittlecreatures,thatthestairsareofLilliputianmeasurement,fittedtotheirtinystrides.Thesameconsiderationfortheiryearsandweaknessisexpressedintheirveryseats,whichareperfectcuriosities,andlooklikearticlesoffurnitureforapauperdolls-house.IcanimaginethegleeofourPoorLawCommissionersatthenotionoftheseseatshavingarmsandbacks;butsmallspinesbeingofolderdatethantheiroccupationoftheBoard-roomatSomersetHouse,Ithoughteventhisprovisionverymercifulandkind.

Hereagain,Iwasgreatlypleasedwiththeinscriptionsonthewall,whichwere

scrapsofplainmorality,easilyrememberedandunderstood:suchasLoveoneanotherGodremembersthesmallestcreatureinhiscreation:andstraightforwardadvicofthatnature.Thebooksandtasksofthesesmallestofscholars,wereadapted,inthesamejudiciousmanner,totheirchildishpowers.Whenwehadexaminedtheselessons,fourmorselsofgirls(ofwhomonewasblind)sangalittlesong,aboutthemerrymonthofMay,whichIthought(beingextremelydismal)wouldhavesuitedanEnglishNovemberbetter.Thatdone,wewenttoseetheirsleeping-roomsonthefloorabove,inwhichthearrangementswerenolessexcellentandgentlethanthosewehadseenbelow.Andafterobservingthattheteacherswereofaclassandcharacterwellsuitedtothespiritoftheplace,Itookleaveofth



einfantswithalighterheartthaneverIhavetakenleaveofpauperinfantsyet.

ConnectedwiththeHouseofIndustry,thereisalsoanHospital,whichwasinthebestorder,andhad,Iamgladtosay,manybedsunoccupied.Ithadonefault,however,whichiscommontoallAmericaninteriors:thepresenceoftheeternal,accursed,suffocating,red-hotdemonofastove,whosebreathwouldblightthepurestairunderHeaven.

Therearetwoestablishmentsforboysinthissameneighbourhood.OneiscalledtheBoylstonschool,andisanasylumforneglectedandindigentboyswhohavecommittednocrime,butwhointheordinarycourseofthingswouldverysoonbepurgedofthatdistinctioniftheywerenottakenfromthehungrystreetsandsenthere.TheotherisaHouseofReformationforJuvenileOffenders.Theyarebothunderthesameroof,butthetwoclassesofboysnevercomeincontact.

TheBoylstonboys,asmaybereadilysupposed,haveverymuchtheadvantageoftheothersinpointofpersonalappearance.Theywereintheirschool-roomwhenIcameuponthem,andansweredcorrectly,withoutbook,suchquestionsaswherewasEngland;howfarwasit;whatwasitspopulation;itscapitalcity;itsformofgovernment;andsoforth.Theysangasongtoo,aboutafarmersowinghisseed:withcorrespondingactionatsuchpartsastisthushesows,heturnshimround,clapshishands;whichgaveitgreaterinterestforthem,andaccustomedthemtoacttogether,inanorderlymanner.Theyappearedexceedinglywell-taught,and

notbettertaughtthanfed;foramorechubby-lookingfull-waistcoatedsetofboys,Ineversaw.

Thejuvenileoffendershadnotsuchpleasantfacesbyagreatdeal,andinthisestablishmentthereweremanyboysofcolour.Isawthemfirstattheirwork(basket-making,andthemanufactureofpalm-leafhats),afterwardsintheirschool,wheretheysangachorusinpraiseofLiberty:anodd,and,onewouldthink,ratheraggravating,themeforprisoners.Theseboysaredividedintofourclasses,eachdenotedbyanumeral,wornonabadgeuponthearm.Onthearrivalofanew-comer,heisputintothefourthorlowestclass,andleft,bygoodbehaviour,toworkhiswayupintothefirst.ThedesignandobjectofthisInstitutionistoreclaimtheyouthfulcriminalbyfirmbutkindandjudicioustreatment;tomakehisprisonaplaceofpurificationandimprovement,notofdemoralisationan

dcorruption;toimpressuponhimthatthereisbutonepath,andthatonesoberindustry,whichcaneverleadhimtohappiness;toteachhimhowitmaybetrodden,ifhisfootstepshaveneveryetbeenledthatway;andtolurehimbacktoitiftheyhavestrayed:inaword,tosnatchhimfromdestruction,andrestorehimtosocietyapenitentandusefulmember.Theimportanceofsuchanestablishment,ineverypointofview,andwithreferencetoeveryconsiderationofhumanityandsocialpolicy,requiresnocomment.

Oneotherestablishmentclosesthecatalogue.ItistheHouseofCorrectionfortheState,inwhichsilenceisstrictlymaintained,butwheretheprisonershavethecomfortandmentalreliefofseeingeachother,andofworkingtogether.ThisistheimprovedsystemofPrisonDisciplinewhichwehaveimportedintoEngland,andwhichhasbeeninsuccessfuloperationamongusforsomeyearspast.

America,asanewandnotover-populatedcountry,hasinallherprisons,theonegreatadvantage,ofbeingenabledtofindusefulandprofitableworkfortheinmates;whereas,withus,theprejudiceagainstprisonlabourisnaturallyverystrong,andalmostinsurmountable,whenhonestmenwhohavenotoffendedagainstthelawsarefrequentlydoomedtoseekemploymentinvain.EvenintheUnitedStates,theprincipleofbringingconvictlabourandfreelabourintoacompetitionwhichmustobviouslybetothedisadvantageofthelatter,hasalreadyfoundmanyopponents,whosenumberisnotlikelytodiminishwithaccessofyears.



Forthisveryreasonthough,ourbestprisonswouldseematthefirstglancetobebetterconductedthanthoseofAmerica.Thetreadmillisconductedwithlittleornonoise;fivehundredmenmaypickoakuminthesameroom,withoutasound;andbothkindsoflabouradmitofsuchkeenandvigilantsuperintendence,aswillrenderevenawordofpersonalcommunicationamongsttheprisonersalmostimpossible.Ontheotherhand,thenoiseoftheloom,theforge,thecarpentershammer,orthestonemasonssaw,greatlyfavourthoseopportunitiesofintercoursehurriedandbriefnodoubt,butopportunitiesstillwhichtheseseveralkindsofwork,byrenderingitnecessaryformentobeemployedveryneartoeachother,andoftensidebyside,withoutanybarrierorpartitionbetweenthem,intheirverynaturepresent.Avisitor,too,requirestoreasonandreflectalittle,beforethesightofanumberofmenengagedinordinarylabour,suchasheisaccustomedtooutofdoors,willimpresshimhalfasstronglyasthecontemplationofthesamepersonsinthesameplaceandgarbwould,iftheywereoccupiedinsometask,markedanddegradedeverywhereasbelongingonlytofelonsinjails.InanAmericanstateprisonorhouseofcorrection,IfounditdifficultatfirsttopersuademyselfthatIwasreallyinajail:aplaceofignominiouspunishmentandendurance.AndtothishourIverymuchquestionwhetherthehumaneboastthatitisnotlikeone,hasitsrootinthetruewisdomorphilosophyofthematter.

IhopeImaynotbemisunderstoodonthissubject,foritisoneinwhichItakeastronganddeepinterest.Iinclineaslittletothesicklyfeelingwhichmakeseverycantinglieormaudlinspeechofanotoriouscriminalasubjectofnews

paperreportandgeneralsympathy,asIdotothosegoodoldcustomsofthegoodoldtimeswhichmadeEngland,evensorecentlyasinthereignoftheThirdKingGeorge,inrespectofhercriminalcodeandherprisonregulations,oneofthemostbloody-mindedandbarbarouscountriesontheearth.IfIthoughtitwoulddoanygoodtotherisinggeneration,Iwouldcheerfullygivemyconsenttothedisintermentofthebonesofanygenteelhighwayman(themoregenteel,themorecheerfully),andtotheirexposure,piecemeal,onanysign-post,gate,orgibbet,thatmightbedeemedagoodelevationforthepurpose.Myreasonisaswellconvincedthatthesegentrywereasutterlyworthlessanddebauchedvillains,asitisthatthelawsandjailshardenedthemintheirevilcourses,orthattheirwonderfulescapeswereeffectedbytheprison-turnkeyswho,inthoseadmirabledays,hadalwaysbeenfelonsthemselves,andwere,tothelast,theirbosom-friendsandpot-companions.AtthesametimeIknow,asallmendoorshould,thatth

esubjectofPrisonDisciplineisoneofthehighestimportancetoanycommunity;andthatinhersweepingreformandbrightexampletoothercountriesonthishead,Americahasshowngreatwisdom,greatbenevolence,andexaltedpolicy.Incontrastinghersystemwiththatwhichwehavemodelleduponit,Imerelyseektoshowthatwithallitsdrawbacks,ourshassomeadvantagesofitsown.

TheHouseofCorrectionwhichhasledtotheseremarks,isnotwalled,likeotherprisons,butispalisadedroundaboutwithtallroughstakes,somethingafterthemannerofanenclosureforkeepingelephantsin,asweseeitrepresentedinEasternprintsandpictures.Theprisonerswearaparti-coloureddress;andthosewhoaresentencedtohardlabour,workatnail-making,orstone-cutting.WhenIwasthere,thelatterclassoflabourerswereemployeduponthestoneforanewcustom-houseincourseoferectionatBoston.Theyappearedtoshapeitskilf

ullyandwithexpedition,thoughtherewereveryfewamongthem(ifany)whohadnotacquiredtheartwithintheprisongates.

Thewomen,allinonelargeroom,wereemployedinmakinglightclothing,forNewOrleansandtheSouthernStates.Theydidtheirworkinsilencelikethemen;andlikethemwereover-lookedbythepersoncontractingfortheirlabour,orbysomeagentofhisappointment.Inadditiontothis,theyareeverymomentliabletobevisitedbytheprisonofficersappointedforthatpurpose.

Thearrangementsforcooking,washingofclothes,andsoforth,aremuchuponth



eplanofthoseIhaveseenathome.Theirmodeofbestowingtheprisonersatnight(whichisofgeneraladoption)differsfromours,andisbothsimpleandeffective.Inthecentreofaloftyarea,lightedbywindowsinthefourwalls,arefivetiersofcells,oneabovetheother;eachtierhavingbeforeitalightirongallery,attainablebystairsofthesameconstructionandmaterial:exceptingthelowerone,whichisontheground.Behindthese,backtobackwiththemandfacingtheoppositewall,arefivecorrespondingrowsofcells,accessiblebysimilarmeans:sothatsupposingtheprisonerslockedupintheircells,anofficerstationedontheground,withhisbacktothewall,hashalftheirnumberunderhiseyeatonce;theremaininghalfbeingequallyundertheobservationofanotherofficerontheoppositeside;andallinonegreatapartment.Unlessthiswatchbecorruptedorsleepingonhispost,itisimpossibleforamantoescape;forevenintheeventofhisforcingtheirondoorofhiscellwithoutnoise(whichisexceedinglyimprobable),themomentheappearsoutside,andstepsintothatoneofthefivegalleriesonwhichitissituated,hemustbeplainlyandfullyvisibletotheofficerbelow.Eachofthesecellsholdsasmalltrucklebed,inwhichoneprisonersleeps;nevermore.Itissmall,ofcourse;andthedoorbeingnotsolid,butgrated,andwithoutblindorcurtain,theprisonerwithinisatalltimesexposedtotheobservationandinspectionofanyguardwhomaypassalongthattieratanyhourorminuteofthenight.Everyday,theprisonersreceivetheirdinner,singly,throughatrapinthekitchenwall;andeachmancarrieshistohissleepingcelltoeatit,whereheislockedup,alone,forthatpurpose,onehour.Thewholeofthisarrangementstruckmeasbeingadmirable;andIhopethatthenextnewprisonweerectinEnglandmaybebuiltonthis

plan.

Iwasgiventounderstandthatinthisprisonnoswordsorfire-arms,orevencudgels,arekept;norisitprobablethat,solongasitspresentexcellentmanagementcontinues,anyweapon,offensiveordefensive,willeverberequiredwithinitsbounds.

SucharetheInstitutionsatSouthBoston!Inallofthem,theunfortunateordegeneratecitizensoftheStatearecarefullyinstructedintheirdutiesbothtoGodandman;aresurroundedbyallreasonablemeansofcomfortandhappinessthattheirconditionwilladmitof;areappealedto,asmembersofthegreathumanfamily,howeverafflicted,indigent,orfallen;areruledbythestrongHeart,andnotbythestrong(thoughimmeasurablyweaker)Hand.Ihavedescribedthemat

somelength;firstly,becausetheirworthdemandedit;andsecondly,becauseImeantotakethemforamodel,andtocontentmyselfwithsayingofotherswemaycometo,whosedesignandpurposearethesame,thatinthisorthatrespecttheypracticallyfail,ordiffer.

Iwishbythisaccountofthem,imperfectinitsexecution,butinitsjustintention,honest,Icouldhopetoconveytomyreadersone-hundredthpartofthegratification,thesightsIhavedescribed,affordedme.

ToanEnglishman,accustomedtotheparaphernaliaofWestminsterHall,anAmericanCourtofLawisasoddasightas,Isuppose,anEnglishCourtofLawwouldbetoanAmerican.ExceptintheSupremeCourtatWashington(wherethejudgeswearaplainblackrobe),thereisnosuchthingasawigorgownconnectedwitht

headministrationofjustice.Thegentlemenofthebarbeingbarristersandattorneystoo(forthereisnodivisionofthosefunctionsasinEngland)arenomoreremovedfromtheirclientsthanattorneysinourCourtfortheReliefofInsolventDebtorsare,fromtheirs.Thejuryarequiteathome,andmakethemselvesascomfortableascircumstanceswillpermit.Thewitnessissolittleelevatedabove,orputalooffrom,thecrowdinthecourt,thatastrangerenteringduringapauseintheproceedingswouldfinditdifficulttopickhimoutfromtherest.Andifitchancedtobeacriminaltrial,hiseyes,inninecasesoutoften,wouldwandertothedockinsearchoftheprisoner,invain;forthatgentlemanwouldmostlikelybeloungingamongthemostdistinguishedornamentsofthelega



lprofession,whisperingsuggestionsinhiscounselsear,ormakingatoothpickoutofanoldquillwithhispenknife.

Icouldnotbutnoticethesedifferences,whenIvisitedthecourtsatBoston.Iwasmuchsurprisedatfirst,too,toobservethatthecounselwhointerrogatedthewitnessunderexaminationatthetime,didsoSITTING.Butseeingthathewasalsooccupiedinwritingdowntheanswers,andrememberingthathewasaloneandhadnojunior,Iquicklyconsoledmyselfwiththereflectionthatlawwasnotquitesoexpensiveanarticlehere,asathome;andthattheabsenceofsundryformalitieswhichweregardasindispensable,haddoubtlessaveryfavourableinfluenceuponthebillofcosts.

IneveryCourt,ampleandcommodiousprovisionismadefortheaccommodationofthecitizens.ThisisthecaseallthroughAmerica.IneveryPublicInstitution,therightofthepeopletoattend,andtohaveaninterestintheproceedings,ismostfullyanddistinctlyrecognised.Therearenogrimdoor-keeperstodoleouttheirtardycivilitybythesixpenny-worth;noristhere,Isincerelybelieve,anyinsolenceofofficeofanykind.Nothingnationalisexhibitedformoney;andnopublicofficerisashowman.Wehavebegunoflateyearstoimitatethisgoodexample.Ihopeweshallcontinuetodoso;andthatinthefulnessoftime,evendeansandchaptersmaybeconverted.

Inthecivilcourtanactionwastrying,fordamagessustainedinsomeaccidentuponarailway.Thewitnesseshadbeenexamined,andcounselwasaddressingthe

jury.Thelearnedgentleman(likeafewofhisEnglishbrethren)wasdesperatelylong-winded,andhadaremarkablecapacityofsayingthesamethingoverandoveragain.HisgreatthemewasWarrentheENGINEdriver,whomhepressedintotheserviceofeverysentenceheuttered.Ilistenedtohimforaboutaquarterofanhour;and,comingoutofcourtattheexpirationofthattime,withoutthefaintestrayofenlightenmentastothemeritsofthecase,feltasifIwereathomeagain.

Intheprisonerscell,waitingtobeexaminedbythemagistrateonachargeoftheft,wasaboy.Thislad,insteadofbeingcommittedtoacommonjail,wouldbesenttotheasylumatSouthBoston,andtheretaughtatrade;andinthecourseoftimehewouldbeboundapprenticetosomerespectablemaster.Thus,hisdetectioninthisoffence,insteadofbeingthepreludetoalifeofinfamyandamis

erabledeath,wouldlead,therewasareasonablehope,tohisbeingreclaimedfromvice,andbecomingaworthymemberofsociety.

Iambynomeansawholesaleadmirerofourlegalsolemnities,manyofwhichimpressmeasbeingexceedinglyludicrous.Strangeasitmayseemtoo,thereisundoubtedlyadegreeofprotectioninthewigandgownadismissalofindividualresponsibilityindressingforthepartwhichencouragesthatinsolentbearingandlanguage,andthatgrossperversionoftheofficeofapleaderforTheTruth,sofrequentinourcourtsoflaw.Still,IcannothelpdoubtingwhetherAmerica,inherdesiretoshakeofftheabsurditiesandabusesoftheoldsystem,maynothavegonetoofarintotheoppositeextreme;andwhetheritisnotdesirable,especiallyinthesmallcommunityofacitylikethis,whereeachmanknowstheother,tosurroundtheadministrationofjusticewithsomeartificialbarriersag

ainsttheHailfellow,wellmetdeportmentofeverydaylife.AlltheaiditcanhaveintheveryhighcharacterandabilityoftheBench,notonlyherebutelsewhere,ithas,andwelldeservestohave;butitmayneedsomethingmore:nottoimpressthethoughtfulandthewell-informed,buttheignorantandheedless;aclasswhichincludessomeprisonersandmanywitnesses.Theseinstitutionswereestablished,nodoubt,upontheprinciplethatthosewhohadsolargeashareinmakingthelaws,wouldcertainlyrespectthem.Butexperiencehasprovedthishopetobefallacious;fornomenknowbetterthanthejudgesofAmerica,thatontheoccasionofanygreatpopularexcitementthelawispowerless,andcannot,forthetime,assertitsownsupremacy.



ThetoneofsocietyinBostonisoneofperfectpoliteness,courtesy,andgoodbreeding.Theladiesareunquestionablyverybeautifulinface:butthereIamcompelledtostop.Theireducationismuchaswithus;neitherbetternorworse.Ihadheardsomeverymarvellousstoriesinthisrespect;butnotbelievingthem,wasnotdisappointed.Blueladiesthereare,inBoston;butlikephilosophersofthatcolourandsexinmostotherlatitudes,theyratherdesiretobethoughtsuperiorthantobeso.Evangelicalladiesthereare,likewise,whoseattachmenttotheformsofreligion,andhorroroftheatricalentertainments,aremostexemplary.Ladieswhohaveapassionforattendinglecturesaretobefoundamongallclassesandallconditions.Inthekindofprovinciallifewhichprevailsincitiessuchasthis,thePulpithasgreatinfluence.ThepeculiarprovinceofthePulpitinNewEngland(alwaysexceptingtheUnitarianMinistry)wouldappeartobethedenouncementofallinnocentandrationalamusements.Thechurch,thechapel,andthelecture-room,aretheonlymeansofexcitementexcepted;andtothechurch,thechapel,andthelecture-room,theladiesresortincrowds.

Whereverreligionisresortedto,asastrongdrink,andasanescapefromthedullmonotonousroundofhome,thoseofitsministerswhopepperthehighestwillbethesuresttoplease.TheywhostrewtheEternalPathwiththegreatestamountofbrimstone,andwhomostruthlesslytreaddowntheflowersandleavesthatgrowbythewayside,willbevotedthemostrighteous;andtheywhoenlargewiththegreatestpertinacityonthedifficultyofgettingintoheaven,willbeconsideredbyalltruebelieverscertainofgoingthere:thoughitwouldbehardto

saybywhatprocessofreasoningthisconclusionisarrivedat.Itissoathome,anditissoabroad.Withregardtotheothermeansofexcitement,theLecture,ithasatleastthemeritofbeingalwaysnew.Onelecturetreadssoquicklyontheheelsofanother,thatnoneareremembered;andthecourseofthismonthmaybesafelyrepeatednext,withitscharmofnoveltyunbroken,anditsinterestunabated.

Thefruitsoftheearthhavetheirgrowthincorruption.Outoftherottennessofthesethings,therehassprungupinBostonasectofphilosophersknownasTranscendentalists.Oninquiringwhatthisappellationmightbesupposedtosignify,Iwasgiventounderstandthatwhateverwasunintelligiblewouldbecertainlytranscendental.Notderivingmuchcomfortfromthiselucidation,Ipursuedtheinquirystillfurther,andfoundthattheTranscendentalistsarefollowersofmy

friendMr.Carlyle,orIshouldrathersay,ofafollowerofhis,Mr.RalphWaldoEmerson.ThisgentlemanhaswrittenavolumeofEssays,inwhich,amongmuchthatisdreamyandfanciful(ifhewillpardonmeforsayingso),thereismuchmorethatistrueandmanly,honestandbold.Transcendentalismhasitsoccasionalvagaries(whatschoolhasnot?),butithasgoodhealthfulqualitiesinspiteofthem;notleastamongthenumberaheartydisgustofCant,andanaptitudetodetectherinallthemillionvarietiesofhereverlastingwardrobe.AndthereforeifIwereaBostonian,IthinkIwouldbeaTranscendentalist.

TheonlypreacherIheardinBostonwasMr.Taylor,whoaddresseshimselfpeculiarlytoseamen,andwhowasonceamarinerhimself.Ifoundhischapeldownamongtheshipping,inoneofthenarrow,old,water-sidestreets,withagayblueflagwavingfreelyfromitsroof.Inthegalleryoppositetothepulpitwereali

ttlechoirofmaleandfemalesingers,avioloncello,andaviolin.Thepreacheralreadysatinthepulpit,whichwasraisedonpillars,andornamentedbehindhimwithpainteddraperyofalivelyandsomewhattheatricalappearance.Helookedaweather-beatenhard-featuredman,ofaboutsixoreightandfifty;withdeeplinesgravenasitwereintohisface,darkhair,andastern,keeneye.Yetthegeneralcharacterofhiscountenancewaspleasantandagreeable.Theservicecommencedwithahymn,towhichsucceededanextemporaryprayer.Ithadthefaultoffrequentrepetition,incidentaltoallsuchprayers;butitwasplainandcomprehensiveinitsdoctrines,andbreathedatoneofgeneralsympathyandcharity,whichisnotsocommonlyacharacteristicofthisformofaddresstotheDeit



yasitmightbe.Thatdoneheopenedhisdiscourse,takingforhistextapassagefromtheSongofSolomon,laiduponthedeskbeforethecommencementoftheservicebysomeunknownmemberofthecongregation:Whoisthiscomingupfromthewilderness,leaningonthearmofherbeloved!

Hehandledhistextinallkindsofways,andtwisteditintoallmannerofshapes;butalwaysingeniously,andwitharudeeloquence,welladaptedtothecomprehensionofhishearers.IndeedifIbenotmistaken,hestudiedtheirsympathiesandunderstandingsmuchmorethanthedisplayofhisownpowers.Hisimagerywasalldrawnfromthesea,andfromtheincidentsofaseamanslife;andwasoftenremarkablygood.Hespoketothemofthatgloriousman,LordNelson,andofCollingwood;anddrewnothingin,asthesayingis,bytheheadandshoulders,butbroughtittobearuponhispurpose,naturally,andwithasharpmindtoitseffect.Sometimes,whenmuchexcitedwithhissubject,hehadanoddwaycompoundedofJohnBunyan,andBalfourofBurleyoftakinghisgreatquartoBibleunderhisarmandpacingupanddownthepulpitwithit;lookingsteadilydown,meantime,intothemidstofthecongregation.Thus,whenheappliedhistexttothefirstassemblageofhishearers,andpicturedthewonderofthechurchattheirpresumptioninformingacongregationamongthemselves,hestoppedshortwithhisBibleunderhisarminthemannerIhavedescribed,andpursuedhisdiscourseafterthismanner:

Whoarethesewhoaretheywhoarethesefellows?wheredotheycomefrom?Wherearetheygoingto?Comefrom!Whatstheanswer?leaningoutofthepulpit,andpo

ntingdownwardwithhisrighthand:Frombelow!startingbackagain,andlookingatthesailorsbeforehim:Frombelow,mybrethren.Fromunderthehatchesofsin,batteneddownaboveyoubytheevilone.Thatswhereyoucamefrom!awalkupanddownthepulpit:andwhereareyougoingstoppingabruptly:whereareyougoing?loft!verysoftly,andpointingupward:Aloft!louder:aloft!louderstill:youaregoingwithafairwind,alltautandtrim,steeringdirectforHeaveninitsglory,wheretherearenostormsorfoulweather,andwherethewickedceasefromtroubling,andthewearyareatrest.Anotherwalk:Thatswhereyouregoito,myfriends.Thatsit.Thatstheplace.Thatstheport.Thatsthehaven.Itsassedharbourstillwaterthere,inallchangesofthewindsandtides;nodrivingashoreupontherocks,orslippingyourcablesandrunningouttosea,there:PeacePeacePeaceallpeace!Anotherwalk,andpattingtheBibleunderhislerm:What!Thesefellowsarecomingfromthewilderness,arethey?Yes.Fromthed

reary,blightedwildernessofIniquity,whoseonlycropisDeath.Butdotheyleanuponanythingdotheyleanuponnothing,thesepoorseamen?ThreerapsupontheBible:Ohyes.Yes.TheyleanuponthearmoftheirBelovedthreemoreraps:thearmoftheirBelovedthreemore,andawalk:Pilot,guiding-star,andcompass,allinone,toallhandshereitisthreemore:Hereitis.Theycandotheirsamansdutymanfully,andbeeasyintheirmindsintheutmostperilanddanger,withthistwomore:Theycancome,eventhesepoorfellowscancome,fromthewildernessleaningonthearmoftheirBeloved,andgoupupup!raisinghishandhiger,andhigher,ateveryrepetitionoftheword,sothathestoodwithitatlaststretchedabovehishead,regardingtheminastrange,raptmanner,andpressingthebooktriumphantlytohisbreast,untilhegraduallysubsidedintosomeotherportionofhisdiscourse.

Ihavecitedthis,ratherasaninstanceofthepreacherseccentricitiesthanhismerits,thoughtakeninconnectionwithhislookandmanner,andthecharacterofhisaudience,eventhiswasstriking.Itispossible,however,thatmyfavourableimpressionofhimmayhavebeengreatlyinfluencedandstrengthened,firstly,byhisimpressinguponhishearersthatthetrueobservanceofreligionwasnotinconsistentwithacheerfuldeportmentandanexactdischargeofthedutiesoftheirstation,which,indeed,itscrupulouslyrequiredofthem;andsecondly,byhiscautioningthemnottosetupanymonopolyinParadiseanditsmercies.Ineverheardthesetwopointssowiselytouched(ifindeedIhaveeverheardthemtouchedatall),byanypreacherofthatkindbefore.



HavingpassedthetimeIspentinBoston,inmakingmyselfacquaintedwiththesethings,insettlingthecourseIshouldtakeinmyfuturetravels,andinmixingconstantlywithitssociety,IamnotawarethatIhaveanyoccasiontoprolongthischapter.SuchofitssocialcustomsasIhavenotmentioned,however,maybetoldinaveryfewwords.

Theusualdinner-houristwooclock.Adinnerpartytakesplaceatfive;andataneveningparty,theyseldomsuplaterthaneleven;sothatitgoeshardbutonegetshome,evenfromarout,bymidnight.InevercouldfindoutanydifferencebetweenapartyatBostonandapartyinLondon,savingthatattheformerplaceallassembliesareheldatmorerationalhours;thattheconversationmaypossiblybealittlelouderandmorecheerful;andaguestisusuallyexpectedtoascendtotheverytopofthehousetotakehiscloakoff;thatheiscertaintosee,ateverydinner,anunusualamountofpoultryonthetable;andateverysupper,atleasttwomightybowlsofhotstewedoysters,inanyoneofwhichahalf-grownDukeofClarencemightbesmotheredeasily.

TherearetwotheatresinBoston,ofgoodsizeandconstruction,butsadlyinwantofpatronage.Thefewladieswhoresorttothem,sit,asofright,inthefrontrowsoftheboxes.

Thebarisalargeroomwithastonefloor,andtherepeoplestandandsmoke,andloungeabout,alltheevening:droppinginandoutasthehumourtakesthem.T

heretoothestrangerisinitiatedintothemysteriesofGin-sling,Cock-tail,Sangaree,MintJulep,Sherry-cobbler,TimberDoodle,andotherraredrinks.Thehouseisfullofboarders,bothmarriedandsingle,manyofwhomsleepuponthepremises,andcontractbytheweekfortheirboardandlodging:thechargeforwhichdiminishesastheygonearertheskytoroost.Apublictableislaidinaveryhandsomehallforbreakfast,andfordinner,andforsupper.Thepartysittingdowntogethertothesemealswillvaryinnumberfromonetotwohundred:sometimesmore.Theadventofeachoftheseepochsinthedayisproclaimedbyanawfulgong,whichshakestheverywindow-framesasitreverberatesthroughthehouse,andhorriblydisturbsnervousforeigners.Thereisanordinaryforladies,andanordinaryforgentlemen.

Inourprivateroomtheclothcouldnot,foranyearthlyconsideration,havebee

nlaidfordinnerwithoutahugeglassdishofcranberriesinthemiddleofthetable;andbreakfastwouldhavebeennobreakfastunlesstheprincipaldishwereadeformedbeef-steakwithagreatflatboneinthecentre,swimminginhotbutter,andsprinkledwiththeveryblackestofallpossiblepepper.Ourbedroomwasspaciousandairy,but(likeeverybedroomonthissideoftheAtlantic)verybareoffurniture,havingnocurtainstotheFrenchbedsteadortothewindow.Ithadoneunusualluxury,however,intheshapeofawardrobeofpaintedwood,somethingsmallerthananEnglishwatch-box;orifthiscomparisonshouldbeinsufficienttoconveyajustideaofitsdimensions,theymaybeestimatedfromthefactofmyhavinglivedforfourteendaysandnightsinthefirmbeliefthatitwasashower-bath.

ChapterIVAnAmericanRailroad.LowellanditsFactorySystem

BEFOREleavingBoston,IdevotedonedaytoanexcursiontoLowell.Iassignaseparatechaptertothisvisit;notbecauseIamabouttodescribeitatanygreatlength,butbecauseIrememberitasathingbyitself,andamdesirousthatmyreadersshoulddothesame.

ImadeacquaintancewithanAmericanrailroad,onthisoccasion,forthefirsttime.AstheseworksareprettymuchalikeallthroughtheStates,theirgeneralcharacteristicsareeasilydescribed.



Therearenofirstandsecondclasscarriagesaswithus;butthereisagentlemanscarandaladiescar:themaindistinctionbetweenwhichisthatinthefirst,everybodysmokes;andinthesecond,nobodydoes.Asablackmannevertravelswithawhiteone,thereisalsoanegrocar;whichisagreat,blundering,clumsychest,suchasGulliverputtoseain,fromthekingdomofBrobdingnag.Thereisagreatdealofjolting,agreatdealofnoise,agreatdealofwall,notmuchwindow,alocomotiveengine,ashriek,andabell.

Thecarsarelikeshabbyomnibuses,butlarger:holdingthirty,forty,fifty,people.Theseats,insteadofstretchingfromendtoend,areplacedcrosswise.Eachseatholdstwopersons.Thereisalongrowofthemoneachsideofthecaravan,anarrowpassageupthemiddle,andadooratbothends.Inthecentreofthecarriagethereisusuallyastove,fedwithcharcoaloranthracitecoal;whichisforthemostpartred-hot.Itisinsufferablyclose;andyouseethehotairflutteringbetweenyourselfandanyotherobjectyoumayhappentolookat,liketheghostofsmoke.

Intheladiescar,thereareagreatmanygentlemenwhohaveladieswiththem.Therearealsoagreatmanyladieswhohavenobodywiththem:foranyladymaytravelalone,fromoneendoftheUnitedStatestotheother,andbecertainofthemostcourteousandconsideratetreatmenteverywhere.Theconductororcheck-taker,orguard,orwhateverhemaybe,wearsnouniform.Hewalksupanddownthecar,andinandoutofit,ashisfancydictates;leansagainstthedoorwithhi

shandsinhispocketsandstaresatyou,ifyouchancetobeastranger;orentersintoconversationwiththepassengersabouthim.Agreatmanynewspapersarepulledout,andafewofthemareread.Everybodytalkstoyou,ortoanybodyelsewhohitshisfancy.IfyouareanEnglishman,heexpectsthatthatrailroadisprettymuchlikeanEnglishrailroad.IfyousayNo,hesaysYes?(interrogativey),andasksinwhatrespecttheydiffer.Youenumeratetheheadsofdifference,onebyone,andhesaysYes?(stillinterrogatively)toeach.ThenheguessesthatyoudonttravelfasterinEngland;andonyourreplyingthatyoudo,saysYes?again(stillinterrogatively),anditisquiteevident,dontbelieveit.Afteralongpauseheremarks,partlytoyou,andpartlytotheknobonthetopofhisstick,thatYankeesarereckonedtobeconsiderableofago-aheadpeopletoo;uponwhichYOUsayYes,andthenHEsaysYesagain(affirmativelythistime);anduponyoulookingoutofwindow,tellsyouthatbehindthathill,andsomethreemilesfr

omthenextstation,thereisaclevertowninasmartlo-ca-tion,whereheexpectsyouhaveconcludedtostop.Youranswerinthenegativenaturallyleadstomorequestionsinreferencetoyourintendedroute(alwayspronouncedrout);andwhereveryouaregoing,youinvariablylearnthatyoucantgettherewithoutimmensedifficultyanddanger,andthatallthegreatsightsaresomewhereelse.

Ifaladytakeafancytoanymalepassengersseat,thegentlemanwhoaccompanieshergiveshimnoticeofthefact,andheimmediatelyvacatesitwithgreatpoliteness.Politicsaremuchdiscussed,soarebanks,soiscotton.QuietpeopleavoidthequestionofthePresidency,fortherewillbeanewelectioninthreeyearsandahalf,andpartyfeelingrunsveryhigh:thegreatconstitutionalfeatureofthisinstitutionbeing,thatdirectlytheacrimonyofthelastelectionisover,theacrimonyofthenextonebegins;whichisanunspeakablecomforttoa

llstrongpoliticiansandtrueloversoftheircountry:thatistosay,toninety-ninemenandboysoutofeveryninety-nineandaquarter.

Exceptwhenabranchroadjoinsthemainone,thereisseldommorethanonetrackofrails;sothattheroadisverynarrow,andtheview,wherethereisadeepcutting,bynomeansextensive.Whenthereisnot,thecharacterofthesceneryisalwaysthesame.Mileaftermileofstuntedtrees:somehewndownbytheaxe,someblowndownbythewind,somehalffallenandrestingontheirneighbours,manymerelogshalfhiddenintheswamp,othersmoulderedawaytospongychips.Theverysoiloftheearthismadeupofminutefragmentssuchasthese;eachp



oolofstagnantwaterhasitscrustofvegetablerottenness;oneverysidetherearetheboughs,andtrunks,andstumpsoftrees,ineverypossiblestageofdecay,decomposition,andneglect.Nowyouemergeforafewbriefminutesonanopencountry,glitteringwithsomebrightlakeorpool,broadasmanyanEnglishriver,butsosmallherethatitscarcelyhasaname;nowcatchhastyglimpsesofadistanttown,withitscleanwhitehousesandtheircoolpiazzas,itsprimNewEnglandchurchandschool-house;whenwhir-r-r-r!almostbeforeyouhaveseenthem,comesthesamedarkscreen:thestuntedtrees,thestumps,thelogs,thestagnantwaterallsolikethelastthatyouseemtohavebeentransportedbackagainbymagic.

Thetraincallsatstationsinthewoods,wherethewildimpossibilityofanybodyhavingthesmallestreasontogetout,isonlytobeequalledbytheapparentlydesperatehopelessnessoftherebeinganybodytogetin.Itrushesacrosstheturnpikeroad,wherethereisnogate,nopoliceman,nosignal:nothingbutaroughwoodenarch,onwhichispaintedWHENTHEBELLRINGS,LOOKOUTFORTHELOCOMOTIVE.Onitwhirlsheadlong,divesthroughthewoodsagain,emergesinthelight,clattersoverfrailarches,rumblesupontheheavyground,shootsbeneathawoodenbridgewhichinterceptsthelightforasecondlikeawink,suddenlyawakensalltheslumberingechoesinthemainstreetofalargetown,anddashesonhaphazard,pell-mell,neck-or-nothing,downthemiddleoftheroad.Therewithmechanicsworkingattheirtrades,andpeopleleaningfromtheirdoorsandwindows,andboysflyingkitesandplayingmarbles,andmensmoking,andwomentalking,andchildrencrawling,andpigsburrowing,andunaccustomedhorsesplungingandr

earing,closetotheveryrailsthereon,on,ontearsthemaddragonofanenginewithitstrainofcars;scatteringinalldirectionsashowerofburningsparksfromitswoodfire;screeching,hissing,yelling,panting;untilatlastthethirstymonsterstopsbeneathacoveredwaytodrink,thepeopleclusterround,andyouhavetimetobreatheagain.

IwasmetatthestationatLowellbyagentlemanintimatelyconnectedwiththemanagementofthefactoriesthere;andgladlyputtingmyselfunderhisguidance,droveoffatoncetothatquarterofthetowninwhichtheworks,theobjectofmyvisit,weresituated.Althoughonlyjustofageforifmyrecollectionserveme,ithasbeenamanufacturingtownbarelyone-and-twentyyearsLowellisalarge,populous,thrivingplace.Thoseindicationsofitsyouthwhichfirstattracttheeye,giveitaquaintnessandoddityofcharacterwhich,toavisitorfrom

theoldcountry,isamusingenough.Itwasaverydirtywintersday,andnothinginthewholetownlookedoldtome,exceptthemud,whichinsomepartswasalmostknee-deep,andmighthavebeendepositedthere,onthesubsidingofthewatersaftertheDeluge.Inoneplace,therewasanewwoodenchurch,which,havingnosteeple,andbeingyetunpainted,lookedlikeanenormouspacking-casewithoutanydirectionuponit.Inanothertherewasalargehotel,whosewallsandcolonnadesweresocrisp,andthin,andslight,thatithadexactlytheappearanceofbeingbuiltwithcards.Iwascarefulnottodrawmybreathaswepassed,andtrembledwhenIsawaworkmancomeoutupontheroof,lestwithonethoughtlessstampofhisfootheshouldcrushthestructurebeneathhim,andbringitrattlingdown.Theveryriverthatmovesthemachineryinthemills(fortheyareallworkedbywaterpower),seemstoacquireanewcharacterfromthefreshbuildingsofbrightredbrickandpaintedwoodamongwhichittakesitscourse;andto

beaslight-headed,thoughtless,andbriskayoungriver,initsmurmuringsandtumblings,asonewoulddesiretosee.OnewouldswearthateveryBakery,Grocery,ndBookbindery,andotherkindofstore,tookitsshuttersdownforthefirsttime,andstartedinbusinessyesterday.Thegoldenpestlesandmortarsfixedassignsuponthesun-blindframesoutsidetheDruggists,appeartohavebeenjustturnedoutoftheUnitedStatesMint;andwhenIsawababyofsomeweekortendaysoldinawomansarmsatastreetcorner,Ifoundmyselfunconsciouslywonderingwhereitcamefrom:neversupposingforaninstantthatitcouldhavebeenborninsuchayoungtownasthat.



ThereareseveralfactoriesinLowell,eachofwhichbelongstowhatweshouldtermaCompanyofProprietors,butwhattheycallinAmericaaCorporation.Iwentoverseveralofthese;suchasawoollenfactory,acarpetfactory,andacottonfactory:examinedthemineverypart;andsawthemintheirordinaryworkingaspect,withnopreparationofanykind,ordeparturefromtheirordinaryeverydayproceedings.ImayaddthatIamwellacquaintedwithourmanufacturingtownsinEngland,andhavevisitedmanymillsinManchesterandelsewhereinthesamemanner.

Ihappenedtoarriveatthefirstfactoryjustasthedinnerhourwasover,andthegirlswerereturningtotheirwork;indeedthestairsofthemillwerethrongedwiththemasIascended.Theywereallwelldressed,butnottomythinkingabovetheircondition;forIliketoseethehumblerclassesofsocietycarefuloftheirdressandappearance,andeven,iftheyplease,decoratedwithsuchlittletrinketsascomewithinthecompassoftheirmeans.Supposingitconfinedwithinreasonablelimits,Iwouldalwaysencouragethiskindofpride,asaworthyelementofself-respect,inanypersonIemployed;andshouldnomorebedeterredfromdoingso,becausesomewretchedfemalereferredherfalltoaloveofdress,thanIwouldallowmyconstructionoftherealintentandmeaningoftheSabbathtobeinfluencedbyanywarningtothewell-disposed,foundedonhisbackslidingsonthatparticularday,whichmightemanatefromtheratherdoubtfulauthorityofamurdererinNewgate.

Thesegirls,asIhavesaid,wereallwelldressed:andthatphrasenecessarily

includesextremecleanliness.Theyhadserviceablebonnets,goodwarmcloaks,andshawls;andwerenotaboveclogsandpattens.Moreover,therewereplacesinthemillinwhichtheycoulddepositthesethingswithoutinjury;andtherewereconveniencesforwashing.Theywerehealthyinappearance,manyofthemremarkablyso,andhadthemannersanddeportmentofyoungwomen:notofdegradedbrutesofburden.IfIhadseeninoneofthosemills(butIdidnot,thoughIlookedforsomethingofthiskindwithasharpeye),themostlisping,mincing,affected,andridiculousyoungcreaturethatmyimaginationcouldsuggest,Ishouldhavethoughtofthecareless,moping,slatternly,degraded,dullreverse(IHAVEseenthat),andshouldhavebeenstillwellpleasedtolookuponher.

Theroomsinwhichtheyworked,wereaswellorderedasthemselves.Inthewindowsofsome,thereweregreenplants,whichweretrainedtoshadetheglass;ina

ll,therewasasmuchfreshair,cleanliness,andcomfort,asthenatureoftheoccupationwouldpossiblyadmitof.Outofsolargeanumberoffemales,manyofwhomwereonlythenjustverginguponwomanhood,itmaybereasonablysupposedthatsomeweredelicateandfragileinappearance:nodoubttherewere.ButIsolemnlydeclare,thatfromallthecrowdIsawinthedifferentfactoriesthatday,Icannotrecallorseparateoneyoungfacethatgavemeapainfulimpression;notoneyounggirlwhom,assumingittobeamatterofnecessitythatsheshouldgainherdailybreadbythelabourofherhands,IwouldhaveremovedfromthoseworksifIhadhadthepower.

Theyresideinvariousboarding-housesnearathand.Theownersofthemillsareparticularlycarefultoallownopersonstoenteruponthepossessionofthesehouses,whosecharactershavenotundergonethemostsearchingandthoroughinqu

iry.Anycomplaintthatismadeagainstthem,bytheboarders,orbyanyoneelse,isfullyinvestigated;andifgoodgroundofcomplaintbeshowntoexistagainstthem,theyareremoved,andtheiroccupationishandedovertosomemoredeservingperson.Thereareafewchildrenemployedinthesefactories,butnotmany.ThelawsoftheStateforbidtheirworkingmorethanninemonthsintheyear,andrequirethattheybeeducatedduringtheotherthree.ForthispurposethereareschoolsinLowell;andtherearechurchesandchapelsofvariouspersuasions,inwhichtheyoungwomenmayobservethatformofworshipinwhichtheyhavebeeneducated.



Atsomedistancefromthefactories,andonthehighestandpleasantestgroundintheneighbourhood,standstheirhospital,orboarding-houseforthesick:itisthebesthouseinthoseparts,andwasbuiltbyaneminentmerchantforhisownresidence.LikethatinstitutionatBoston,whichIhavebeforedescribed,itisnotparcelledoutintowards,butisdividedintoconvenientchambers,eachofwhichhasallthecomfortsofaverycomfortablehome.Theprincipalmedicalattendantresidesunderthesameroof;andwerethepatientsmembersofhisownfamily,theycouldnotbebettercaredfor,orattendedwithgreatergentlenessandconsideration.Theweeklychargeinthisestablishmentforeachfemalepatientisthreedollars,ortwelveshillingsEnglish;butnogirlemployedbyanyofthecorporationsiseverexcludedforwantofthemeansofpayment.Thattheydonotveryoftenwantthemeans,maybegatheredfromthefact,thatinJuly,1841,nofewerthanninehundredandseventy-eightofthesegirlsweredepositorsintheLowellSavingsBank:theamountofwhosejointsavingswasestimatedatonehundredthousanddollars,ortwentythousandEnglishpounds.

Iamnowgoingtostatethreefacts,whichwillstartlealargeclassofreadersonthissideoftheAtlantic,verymuch.

Firstly,thereisajoint-stockpianoinagreatmanyoftheboarding-houses.Secondly,nearlyalltheseyoungladiessubscribetocirculatinglibraries.Thirdly,theyhavegotupamongthemselvesaperiodicalcalledTHELOWELLOFFERING,Arepositoryoforiginalarticles,writtenexclusivelybyfemalesactivelyemployedinthemills,whichisdulyprinted,published,andsold;andwhereofIbrought

awayfromLowellfourhundredgoodsolidpages,whichIhavereadfrombeginningtoend.

Thelargeclassofreaders,startledbythesefacts,willexclaim,withonevoice,Howverypreposterous!Onmydeferentiallyinquiringwhy,theywillanswer,Thesethingsareabovetheirstation.Inreplytothatobjection,Iwouldbegtoaskwhattheirstationis.

Itistheirstationtowork.AndtheyDOwork.Theylabourinthesemills,uponanaverage,twelvehoursaday,whichisunquestionablywork,andprettytightworktoo.Perhapsitisabovetheirstationtoindulgeinsuchamusements,onanyterms.ArewequitesurethatweinEnglandhavenotformedourideasofthestationofworkingpeople,fromaccustomingourselvestothecontemplationofthatc

lassastheyare,andnotastheymightbe?Ithinkthatifweexamineourownfeelings,weshallfindthatthepianos,andthecirculatinglibraries,andeventheLowellOffering,startleusbytheirnovelty,andnotbytheirbearinguponanyabstractquestionofrightorwrong.

Formyself,Iknownostationinwhich,theoccupationofto-daycheerfullydoneandtheoccupationofto-morrowcheerfullylookedto,anyoneofthesepursuitsisnotmosthumanisingandlaudable.Iknownostationwhichisrenderedmoreendurabletothepersoninit,ormoresafetothepersonoutofit,byhavingignoranceforitsassociate.Iknownostationwhichhasarighttomonopolisethemeansofmutualinstruction,improvement,andrationalentertainment;orwhichhasevercontinuedtobeastationverylong,afterseekingtodoso.

OfthemeritsoftheLowellOfferingasaliteraryproduction,Iwillonlyobserve,puttingentirelyoutofsightthefactofthearticleshavingbeenwrittenbythesegirlsafterthearduouslaboursoftheday,thatitwillcompareadvantageouslywithagreatmanyEnglishAnnuals.ItispleasanttofindthatmanyofitsTalesareoftheMillsandofthosewhoworkinthem;thattheyinculcatehabitsofself-denialandcontentment,andteachgooddoctrinesofenlargedbenevolence.Astrongfeelingforthebeautiesofnature,asdisplayedinthesolitudesthewritershaveleftathome,breathesthroughitspageslikewholesomevillageair;andthoughacirculatinglibraryisafavourableschoolforthestudyofsuchtopics,ithasveryscantallusiontofineclothes,finemarriages,fineho



uses,orfinelife.Somepersonsmightobjecttothepapersbeingsignedoccasionallywithratherfinenames,butthisisanAmericanfashion.OneoftheprovincesofthestatelegislatureofMassachusettsistoalteruglynamesintoprettyones,asthechildrenimproveuponthetastesoftheirparents.Thesechangescostinglittleornothing,scoresofMaryAnnesaresolemnlyconvertedintoBevelinaseverysession.

ItissaidthatontheoccasionofavisitfromGeneralJacksonorGeneralHarrisontothistown(Iforgetwhich,butitisnottothepurpose),hewalkedthroughthreemilesandahalfoftheseyoungladiesalldressedoutwithparasolsandsilkstockings.ButasIamnotawarethatanyworseconsequenceensued,thanasuddenlooking-upofalltheparasolsandsilkstockingsinthemarket;andperhapsthebankruptcyofsomespeculativeNewEnglanderwhoboughtthemallupatanyprice,inexpectationofademandthatnevercame;Isetnogreatstorebythecircumstance.

InthisbriefaccountofLowell,andinadequateexpressionofthegratificationityieldedme,andcannotfailtoaffordtoanyforeignertowhomtheconditionofsuchpeopleathomeisasubjectofinterestandanxiousspeculation,Ihavecarefullyabstainedfromdrawingacomparisonbetweenthesefactoriesandthoseofourownland.Manyofthecircumstanceswhosestronginfluencehasbeenatworkforyearsinourmanufacturingtownshavenotarisenhere;andthereisnomanufacturingpopulationinLowell,sotospeak:forthesegirls(oftenthedaughtersofsmallfarmers)comefromotherStates,remainafewyearsinthemills,a

ndthengohomeforgood.

Thecontrastwouldbeastrongone,foritwouldbebetweentheGoodandEvil,thelivinglightanddeepestshadow.Iabstainfromit,becauseIdeemitjusttodoso.ButIonlythemoreearnestlyadjureallthosewhoseeyesmayrestonthesepages,topauseandreflectuponthedifferencebetweenthistownandthosegreathauntsofdesperatemisery:tocalltomind,iftheycaninthemidstofpartystrifeandsquabble,theeffortsthatmustbemadetopurgethemoftheirsufferinganddanger:andlast,andforemost,torememberhowthepreciousTimeisrushingby.

Ireturnedatnightbythesamerailroadandinthesamekindofcar.Oneofthepassengersbeingexceedinglyanxioustoexpoundatgreatlengthtomycompanion

(nottome,ofcourse)thetrueprinciplesonwhichbooksoftravelinAmericashouldbewrittenbyEnglishmen,Ifeignedtofallasleep.Butglancingallthewayoutatwindowfromthecornersofmyeyes,Ifoundabundanceofentertainmentfortherestoftherideinwatchingtheeffectsofthewoodfire,whichhadbeeninvisibleinthemorningbutwerenowbroughtoutinfullreliefbythedarkness:forweweretravellinginawhirlwindofbrightsparks,whichshoweredaboutuslikeastormoffierysnow.

ChapterVWorcester.TheConnecticutRiver.Hartford.NewHaven.ToNewYork

LEAVINGBostonontheafternoonofSaturdaythefifthofFebruary,weproceededbyanotherrailroadtoWorcester:aprettyNewEnglandtown,wherewehadarrang

edtoremainunderthehospitableroofoftheGovernoroftheState,untilMondaymorning.

ThesetownsandcitiesofNewEngland(manyofwhichwouldbevillagesinOldEngland),areasfavourablespecimensofruralAmerica,astheirpeopleareofruralAmericans.Thewell-trimmedlawnsandgreenmeadowsofhomearenotthere;andthegrass,comparedwithourornamentalplotsandpastures,isrank,andrough,andwild:butdelicateslopesofland,gently-swellinghills,woodedvalleys,andslenderstreams,abound.Everylittlecolonyofhouseshasitschurchandschool-housepeepingfromamongthewhiteroofsandshadytrees;everyhouseisth



ewhitestofthewhite;everyVenetianblindthegreenestofthegreen;everyfinedaysskythebluestoftheblue.AsharpdrywindandaslightfrosthadsohardenedtheroadswhenwealightedatWorcester,thattheirfurrowedtrackswerelikeridgesofgranite.Therewastheusualaspectofnewnessoneveryobject,ofcourse.Allthebuildingslookedasiftheyhadbeenbuiltandpaintedthatmorning,andcouldbetakendownonMondaywithverylittletrouble.Inthekeeneveningair,everysharpoutlinelookedahundredtimessharperthanever.ThecleancardboardcolonnadeshadnomoreperspectivethanaChinesebridgeonatea-cup,andappearedequallywellcalculatedforuse.Therazor-likeedgesofthedetachedcottagesseemedtocuttheverywindasitwhistledagainstthem,andtosenditsmartingonitswaywithashrillercrythanbefore.Thoseslightly-builtwoodendwellingsbehindwhichthesunwassettingwithabrilliantlustre,couldbesolookedthroughandthrough,thattheideaofanyinhabitantbeingabletohidehimselffromthepublicgaze,ortohaveanysecretsfromthepubliceye,wasnotentertainableforamoment.Evenwhereablazingfireshonethroughtheuncurtainedwindowsofsomedistanthouse,ithadtheairofbeingnewlylighted,andoflackingwarmth;andinsteadofawakeningthoughtsofasnugchamber,brightwithfacesthatfirstsawthelightroundthatsamehearth,andruddywithwarmhangings,itcameupononesuggestiveofthesmellofnewmortaranddampwalls.

SoIthought,atleast,thatevening.Nextmorningwhenthesunwasshiningbrightly,andtheclearchurchbellswereringing,andsedatepeopleintheirbestclothesenlivenedthepathwaynearathandanddottedthedistantthreadofroad,

therewasapleasantSabbathpeacefulnessoneverything,whichitwasgoodtofeel.Itwouldhavebeenthebetterforanoldchurch;betterstillforsomeoldgraves;butasitwas,awholesomereposeandtranquillitypervadedthescene,whichaftertherestlessoceanandthehurriedcity,hadadoublygratefulinfluenceonthespirits.

Wewentonnextmorning,stillbyrailroad,toSpringfield.FromthatplacetoHartford,whitherwewerebound,isadistanceofonlyfive-and-twentymiles,butatthattimeoftheyeartheroadsweresobadthatthejourneywouldprobablyhaveoccupiedtenortwelvehours.Fortunately,however,thewinterhavingbeenunusuallymild,theConnecticutRiverwasopen,or,inotherwords,notfrozen.Thecaptainofasmallsteamboatwasgoingtomakehisfirsttripfortheseasonthatday(thesecondFebruarytrip,Ibelieve,withinthememoryofman),andonl

ywaitedforustogoonboard.Accordingly,wewentonboard,withaslittledelayasmightbe.Hewasasgoodashisword,andstarteddirectly.

Itcertainlywasnotcalledasmallsteamboatwithoutreason.Iomittedtoaskthequestion,butIshouldthinkitmusthavebeenofabouthalfaponypower.Mr.Paap,thecelebratedDwarf,mighthavelivedanddiedhappilyinthecabin,whichwasfittedwithcommonsash-windowslikeanordinarydwelling-house.Thesewindowshadbright-redcurtains,too,hungonslackstringsacrossthelowerpanes;sothatitlookedliketheparlourofaLilliputianpublic-house,whichhadgotafloatinafloodorsomeotherwateraccident,andwasdriftingnobodyknewwhere.Buteveninthischambertherewasarocking-chair.Itwouldbeimpossibletogetonanywhere,inAmerica,withoutarocking-chair.Iamafraidtotellhowmanyfeetshortthisvesselwas,orhowmanyfeetnarrow:toapplythewords

lengthandwidthtosuchmeasurementwouldbeacontradictioninterms.ButImaystatethatweallkeptthemiddleofthedeck,lesttheboatshouldunexpectedlytipover;andthatthemachinery,bysomesurprisingprocessofcondensation,workedbetweenitandthekeel:thewholeformingawarmsandwich,aboutthreefeetthick.

ItrainedalldayasIoncethoughtitneverdidrainanywhere,butintheHighlandsofScotland.Theriverwasfulloffloatingblocksofice,whichwereconstantlycrunchingandcrackingunderus;andthedepthofwater,inthecoursewetooktoavoidthelargermasses,carrieddownthemiddleoftheriverbythecur



rent,didnotexceedafewinches.Nevertheless,wemovedonward,dexterously;andbeingwellwrappedup,badedefiancetotheweather,andenjoyedthejourney.TheConnecticutRiverisafinestream;andthebanksinsummer-timeare,Ihavenodoubt,beautiful;atallevents,Iwastoldsobyayoungladyinthecabin;andsheshouldbeajudgeofbeauty,ifthepossessionofaqualityincludetheappreciationofit,foramorebeautifulcreatureIneverlookedupon.

Aftertwohoursandahalfofthisoddtravelling(includingastoppageatasmalltown,whereweweresalutedbyagunconsiderablybiggerthanourownchimney),wereachedHartford,andstraightwayrepairedtoanextremelycomfortablehotel:except,asusual,inthearticleofbedrooms,which,inalmosteveryplacewevisited,wereveryconducivetoearlyrising.

Wetarriedhere,fourdays.Thetownisbeautifullysituatedinabasinofgreenhills;thesoilisrich,well-wooded,andcarefullyimproved.ItistheseatofthelocallegislatureofConnecticut,whichsagebodyenacted,inbygonetimes,therenownedcodeofBlueLaws,invirtuewhereof,amongotherenlightenedprovisions,anycitizenwhocouldbeprovedtohavekissedhiswifeonSunday,waspunishable,Ibelieve,withthestocks.ToomuchoftheoldPuritanspiritexistsinthesepartstothepresenthour;butitsinfluencehasnottended,thatIknow,tomakethepeoplelesshardintheirbargains,ormoreequalintheirdealings.AsIneverheardofitsworkingthateffectanywhereelse,Iinferthatitneverwill,here.Indeed,Iamaccustomed,withreferencetogreatprofessionsandseverefaces,tojudgeofthegoodsoftheotherworldprettymuchasIjudgeo

fthegoodsofthis;andwheneverIseeadealerinsuchcommoditieswithtoogreatadisplayoftheminhiswindow,Idoubtthequalityofthearticlewithin.

InHartfordstandsthefamousoakinwhichthecharterofKingCharleswashidden.Itisnowinclosedinagentlemansgarden.IntheStateHouseisthecharteritself.Ifoundthecourtsoflawhere,justthesameasatBoston;thepublicinstitutionsalmostasgood.TheInsaneAsylumisadmirablyconducted,andsoistheInstitutionfortheDeafandDumb.

Iverymuchquestionedwithinmyself,asIwalkedthroughtheInsaneAsylum,whetherIshouldhaveknowntheattendantsfromthepatients,butforthefewwordswhichpassedbetweentheformer,andtheDoctor,inreferencetothepersonsundertheircharge.OfcourseIlimitthisremarkmerelytotheirlooks;forthec

onversationofthemadpeoplewasmadenough.

Therewasonelittle,primoldlady,ofverysmilingandgood-humouredappearance,whocamesidlinguptomefromtheendofalongpassage,andwithacurtseyofinexpressiblecondescension,propoundedthisunaccountableinquiry:

DoesPontefractstillflourish,sir,uponthesoilofEngland?

Hedoes,maam,Irejoined.

Whenyoulastsawhim,sir,hewas

Well,maam,saidI,extremelywell.Hebeggedmetopresenthiscompliments.Ineve

sawhimlookingbetter.

Atthis,theoldladywasverymuchdelighted.Afterglancingatmeforamoment,asiftobequitesurethatIwasseriousinmyrespectfulair,shesidledbacksomepaces;sidledforwardagain;madeasuddenskip(atwhichIprecipitatelyretreatedasteportwo);andsaid:

Iamanantediluvian,sir.

Ithoughtthebestthingtosaywas,thatIhadsuspectedasmuchfromthefirst



.ThereforeIsaidso.

Itisanextremelyproudandpleasantthing,sir,tobeanantediluvian,saidtheoldlady.

Ishouldthinkitwas,maam,Irejoined.

Theoldladykissedherhand,gaveanotherskip,smirkedandsidleddownthegalleryinamostextraordinarymanner,andambledgracefullyintoherownbed-chamber.

Inanotherpartofthebuilding,therewasamalepatientinbed;verymuchflushedandheated.

Well,saidhe,startingup,andpullingoffhisnight-cap:ItsallsettledatlastIhavearrangeditwithQueenVictoria.

Arrangedwhat?askedtheDoctor.

Why,thatbusiness,passinghishandwearilyacrosshisforehead,aboutthesiegeofNewYork.

Oh!saidI,likeamansuddenlyenlightened.Forhelookedatmeforananswer.

Yes.EveryhousewithoutasignalwillbefireduponbytheBritishtroops.Noharmwillbedonetotheothers.Noharmatall.Thosethatwanttobesafe,musthoistflags.Thatsalltheyllhavetodo.Theymusthoistflags.

Evenwhilehewasspeakingheseemed,Ithought,tohavesomefaintideathathistalkwasincoherent.Directlyhehadsaidthesewords,helaydownagain;gaveakindofagroan;andcoveredhishotheadwiththeblankets.

Therewasanother:ayoungman,whosemadnesswasloveandmusic.Afterplayingontheaccordionamarchhehadcomposed,hewasveryanxiousthatIshouldwalkintohischamber,whichIimmediatelydid.

Bywayofbeingveryknowing,andhumouringhimtothetopofhisbent,Iwentt

othewindow,whichcommandedabeautifulprospect,andremarked,withanaddressuponwhichIgreatlyplumedmyself:

Whatadeliciouscountryyouhaveabouttheselodgingsofyours!

Poh!saidhe,movinghisfingerscarelesslyoverthenotesofhisinstrument:WELLENOUGHFORSUCHANINSTITUTIONASTHIS!

IdontthinkIwaseversotakenabackinallmylife.

Icomeherejustforawhim,hesaidcoolly.Thatsall.

Oh!Thatsall!saidI.

Yes.Thatsall.TheDoctorsasmartman.Hequiteentersintoit.Itsajokeofmin.Ilikeitforatime.Youneedntmentionit,butIthinkIshallgooutnextTuesday!

IassuredhimthatIwouldconsiderourinterviewperfectlyconfidential;andrejoinedtheDoctor.Aswewerepassingthroughagalleryonourwayout,awell-dressedlady,ofquietandcomposedmanners,cameup,andprofferingaslipofpaperandapen,beggedthatIwouldobligeherwithanautograph,Icomplied,andweparted.



IthinkIrememberhavinghadafewinterviewslikethat,withladiesoutofdoors.IhopeSHEisnotmad?

Yes.

Onwhatsubject?Autographs?

No.Shehearsvoicesintheair.

Well!thoughtI,itwouldbewellifwecouldshutupafewfalseprophetsoftheselatertimes,whohaveprofessedtodothesame;andIshouldliketotrytheexperimentonaMormonistortwotobeginwith.

Inthisplace,thereisthebestjailforuntriedoffendersintheworld.Thereisalsoaverywell-orderedStateprison,arrangeduponthesameplanasthatatBoston,exceptthathere,thereisalwaysasentryonthewallwithaloadedgun.Itcontainedatthattimeabouttwohundredprisoners.Aspotwasshownmeinthesleepingward,whereawatchmanwasmurderedsomeyearssinceinthedeadofnight,inadesperateattempttoescape,madebyaprisonerwhohadbrokenfromhiscell.Awoman,too,waspointedouttome,who,forthemurderofherhusband,hadbeenacloseprisonerforsixteenyears.

Doyouthink,Iaskedofmyconductor,thataftersoverylonganimprisonment,she

hasanythoughtorhopeofeverregainingherliberty?

Ohdearyes,heanswered.Tobesureshehas.

Shehasnochanceofobtainingit,Isuppose?

Well,Idontknow:which,by-the-bye,isanationalanswer.Herfriendsmistrusthe.

WhathaveTHEYtodowithit?Inaturallyinquired.

Well,theywontpetition.

Butiftheydid,theycouldntgetherout,Isuppose?

Well,notthefirsttime,perhaps,noryetthesecond,buttiringandwearyingforafewyearsmightdoit.

Doesthateverdoit?

Whyyes,thatlldoitsometimes.Politicalfriendslldoitsometimes.Itsprettyofendone,onewayoranother.

IshallalwaysentertainaverypleasantandgratefulrecollectionofHartford.Itisalovelyplace,andIhadmanyfriendsthere,whomIcanneverrememberwithindifference.WeleftitwithnolittleregretontheeveningofFridaythe1

1th,andtravelledthatnightbyrailroadtoNewHaven.Upontheway,theguardandIwereformallyintroducedtoeachother(asweusuallywereonsuchoccasions),andexchangedavarietyofsmall-talk.WereachedNewHavenatabouteightoclock,afterajourneyofthreehours,andputupforthenightatthebestinn.

NewHaven,knownalsoastheCityofElms,isafinetown.Manyofitsstreets(asitsALIASsufficientlyimports)areplantedwithrowsofgrandoldelm-trees;andthesamenaturalornamentssurroundYaleCollege,anestablishmentofconsiderableeminenceandreputation.ThevariousdepartmentsofthisInstitutionareerectedinakindofparkorcommoninthemiddleofthetown,wheretheyared



imlyvisibleamongtheshadowingtrees.TheeffectisverylikethatofanoldcathedralyardinEngland;andwhentheirbranchesareinfullleaf,mustbeextremelypicturesque.Eveninthewintertime,thesegroupsofwell-growntrees,clusteringamongthebusystreetsandhousesofathrivingcity,haveaveryquaintappearance:seemingtobringaboutakindofcompromisebetweentownandcountry;asifeachhadmettheotherhalf-way,andshakenhandsuponit;whichisatoncenovelandpleasant.

Afteranightsrest,weroseearly,andingoodtimewentdowntothewharf,andonboardthepacketNewYorkFORNewYork.ThiswasthefirstAmericansteamboatofanysizethatIhadseen;andcertainlytoanEnglisheyeitwasinfinitelylesslikeasteamboatthanahugefloatingbath.Icouldhardlypersuademyself,indeed,butthatthebathingestablishmentoffWestminsterBridge,whichIleftababy,hadsuddenlygrowntoanenormoussize;runawayfromhome;andsetupinforeignpartsasasteamer.BeinginAmerica,too,whichourvagabondsdosoparticularlyfavour,itseemedthemoreprobable.

Thegreatdifferenceinappearancebetweenthesepacketsandours,is,thatthereissomuchofthemoutofthewater:themain-deckbeingenclosedonallsides,andfilledwithcasksandgoods,likeanysecondorthirdfloorinastackofwarehouses;andthepromenadeorhurricane-deckbeinga-topofthatagain.Apartofthemachineryisalwaysabovethisdeck;wheretheconnecting-rod,inastrongandloftyframe,isseenworkingawaylikeanirontop-sawyer.Thereisseldomanymastortackle:nothingaloftbuttwotallblackchimneys.Themanatthe

helmisshutupinalittlehouseintheforepartoftheboat(thewheelbeingconnectedwiththerudderbyironchains,workingthewholelengthofthedeck);andthepassengers,unlesstheweatherbeveryfineindeed,usuallycongregatebelow.Directlyyouhaveleftthewharf,allthelife,andstir,andbustleofapacketcease.Youwonderforalongtimehowshegoeson,forthereseemstobenobodyinchargeofher;andwhenanotherofthesedullmachinescomessplashingby,youfeelquiteindignantwithit,asasullencumbrous,ungraceful,unshiplikeleviathan:quiteforgettingthatthevesselyouareonboardof,isitsverycounterpart.

Thereisalwaysaclerksofficeonthelowerdeck,whereyoupayyourfare;aladiescabin;baggageandstowagerooms;engineersroom;andinshortagreatvarietyofperplexitieswhichrenderthediscoveryofthegentlemenscabin,amatterof

somedifficulty.Itoftenoccupiesthewholelengthoftheboat(asitdidinthiscase),andhasthreeorfourtiersofberthsoneachside.WhenIfirstdescendedintothecabinoftheNewYork,itlooked,inmyunaccustomedeyes,aboutaslongastheBurlingtonArcade.

TheSoundwhichhastobecrossedonthispassage,isnotalwaysaverysafeorpleasantnavigation,andhasbeenthesceneofsomeunfortunateaccidents.Itwasawetmorning,andverymisty,andwesoonlostsightofland.Thedaywascalm,however,andbrightenedtowardsnoon.Afterexhausting(withgoodhelpfromafriend)thelarder,andthestockofbottledbeer,Ilaydowntosleep;beingverymuchtiredwiththefatiguesofyesterday.ButIwokefrommynapintimetohurryup,andseeHellGate,theHogsBack,theFryingPan,andothernotoriouslocalities,attractivetoallreadersoffamousDiedrichKnickerbockersHistory.

Wewerenowinanarrowchannel,withslopingbanksoneitherside,besprinkledwithpleasantvillas,andmaderefreshingtothesightbyturfandtrees.Soonweshotinquicksuccession,pastalight-house;amadhouse(howthelunaticsflunguptheircapsandroaredinsympathywiththeheadlongengineandthedrivingtide!);ajail;andotherbuildings:andsoemergedintoanoblebay,whosewaterssparkledinthenowcloudlesssunshinelikeNatureseyesturneduptoHeaven.

Thentherelaystretchedoutbeforeus,totheright,confusedheapsofbuildings,withhereandthereaspireorsteeple,lookingdownupontheherdbelow;andhereandthere,again,acloudoflazysmoke;andintheforegroundaforestof



shipsmasts,cheerywithflappingsailsandwavingflags.Crossingfromamongthemtotheoppositeshore,weresteamferry-boatsladenwithpeople,coaches,horses,waggons,baskets,boxes:crossedandrecrossedbyotherferry-boats:alltravellingtoandfro:andneveridle.StatelyamongtheserestlessInsects,weretwoorthreelargeships,movingwithslowmajesticpace,ascreaturesofaprouderkind,disdainfuloftheirpunyjourneys,andmakingforthebroadsea.Beyond,wereshiningheights,andislandsintheglancingriver,andadistancescarcelylessblueandbrightthantheskyitseemedtomeet.Thecityshumandbuzz,theclinkingofcapstans,theringingofbells,thebarkingofdogs,theclatteringofwheels,tingledinthelisteningear.Allofwhichlifeandstir,comingacrossthestirringwater,caughtnewlifeandanimationfromitsfreecompanionship;and,sympathisingwithitsbuoyantspirits,glistenedasitseemedinsportuponitssurface,andhemmedthevesselround,andplashedthewaterhighabouthersides,and,floatinghergallantlyintothedock,flewoffagaintowelcomeothercomers,andspeedbeforethemtothebusyport.

ChapterVINewYork

THEbeautifulmetropolisofAmericaisbynomeanssocleanacityasBoston,butmanyofitsstreetshavethesamecharacteristics;exceptthatthehousesarenotquitesofresh-coloured,thesign-boardsarenotquitesogaudy,thegildedlettersnotquitesogolden,thebricksnotquitesored,thestonenotquitesowhite,theblindsandarearailingsnotquitesogreen,theknobsandplatesup

onthestreetdoorsnotquitesobrightandtwinkling.Therearemanyby-streets,almostasneutralincleancolours,andpositiveindirtyones,asby-streetsinLondon;andthereisonequarter,commonlycalledtheFivePoints,which,inrespectoffilthandwretchedness,maybesafelybackedagainstSevenDials,oranyotherpartoffamedSt.Giless.

Thegreatpromenadeandthoroughfare,asmostpeopleknow,isBroadway;awideandbustlingstreet,which,fromtheBatteryGardenstoitsoppositeterminationinacountryroad,maybefourmileslong.ShallwesitdowninanupperflooroftheCarltonHouseHotel(situatedinthebestpartofthismainarteryofNewYork),andwhenwearetiredoflookingdownuponthelifebelow,sallyfortharm-in-arm,andminglewiththestream?

Warmweather!Thesunstrikesuponourheadsatthisopenwindow,asthoughitsrayswereconcentratedthroughaburning-glass;butthedayisinitszenith,andtheseasonanunusualone.WasthereeversuchasunnystreetasthisBroadway!Thepavementstonesarepolishedwiththetreadoffeetuntiltheyshineagain;theredbricksofthehousesmightbeyetinthedry,hotkilns;andtheroofsofthoseomnibuseslookasthough,ifwaterwerepouredonthem,theywouldhissandsmoke,andsmelllikehalf-quenchedfires.Nostintofomnibuseshere!Half-a-dozenhavegonebywithinasmanyminutes.Plentyofhackneycabsandcoachestoo;gigs,phaetons,large-wheeledtilburies,andprivatecarriagesratherofaclumsymake,andnotverydifferentfromthepublicvehicles,butbuiltfortheheavyroadsbeyondthecitypavement.Negrocoachmenandwhite;instrawhats,blackhats,whitehats,glazedcaps,furcaps;incoatsofdrab,black,brown,green,blue,nankeen,stripedjeanandlinen;andthere,inthatoneinstance(l

ookwhileitpasses,oritwillbetoolate),insuitsoflivery.Somesouthernrepublicanthat,whoputshisblacksinuniform,andswellswithSultanpompandpower.Yonder,wherethatphaetonwiththewell-clippedpairofgrayshasstoppedstandingattheirheadsnowisaYorkshiregroom,whohasnotbeenverylongintheseparts,andlookssorrowfullyroundforacompanionpairoftop-boots,whichhemaytraversethecityhalfayearwithoutmeeting.Heavensavetheladies,howtheydress!Wehaveseenmorecoloursinthesetenminutes,thanweshouldhaveseenelsewhere,inasmanydays.Whatvariousparasols!whatrainbowsilksandsatins!whatpinkingofthinstockings,andpinchingofthinshoes,andflutteringofribbonsandsilktassels,anddisplayofrichcloakswithgaudyhood



sandlinings!Theyounggentlemenarefond,yousee,ofturningdowntheirshirt-collarsandcultivatingtheirwhiskers,especiallyunderthechin;buttheycannotapproachtheladiesintheirdressorbearing,being,tosaythetruth,humanityofquiteanothersort.Byronsofthedeskandcounter,passon,andletusseewhatkindofmenthosearebehindye:thosetwolabourersinholidayclothes,ofwhomonecarriesinhishandacrumpledscrapofpaperfromwhichhetriestospelloutahardname,whiletheotherlooksaboutforitonallthedoorsandwindows.

Irishmenboth!Youmightknowthem,iftheyweremasked,bytheirlong-tailedbluecoatsandbrightbuttons,andtheirdrabtrousers,whichtheywearlikemenwellusedtoworkingdresses,whoareeasyinnoothers.Itwouldbehardtokeepyourmodelrepublicsgoing,withoutthecountrymenandcountrywomenofthosetwolabourers.Forwhoelsewoulddig,anddelve,anddrudge,anddodomesticwork,andmakecanalsandroads,andexecutegreatlinesofInternalImprovement!Irishmenboth,andsorelypuzzledtoo,tofindoutwhattheyseek.Letusgodown,andhelpthem,fortheloveofhome,andthatspiritoflibertywhichadmitsofhonestservicetohonestmen,andhonestworkforhonestbread,nomatterwhatitbe.

Thatswell!Wehavegotattherightaddressatlast,thoughitiswritteninstrangecharacterstruly,andmighthavebeenscrawledwiththeblunthandleofthespadethewriterbetterknowstheuseof,thanapen.Theirwayliesyonder,butwhatbusinesstakesthemthere?Theycarrysavings:tohoardup?No.Theyare

brothers,thosemen.Onecrossedtheseaalone,andworkingveryhardforonehalfyear,andlivingharder,savedfundsenoughtobringtheotherout.Thatdone,theyworkedtogethersidebyside,contentedlysharinghardlabourandhardlivingforanotherterm,andthentheirsisterscame,andthenanotherbrother,andlastly,theiroldmother.Andwhatnow?Why,thepooroldcroneisrestlessinastrangeland,andyearnstolayherbones,shesays,amongherpeopleintheoldgraveyardathome:andsotheygotopayherpassageback:andGodhelpherandthem,andeverysimpleheart,andallwhoturntotheJerusalemoftheiryoungerdays,andhaveanaltar-fireuponthecoldhearthoftheirfathers.

Thisnarrowthoroughfare,bakingandblisteringinthesun,isWallStreet:theStockExchangeandLombardStreetofNewYork.Manyarapidfortunehasbeenmadeinthisstreet,andmanyanolessrapidruin.Someoftheseverymerchantswh

omyouseehangingaboutherenow,havelockedupmoneyintheirstrong-boxes,likethemanintheArabianNights,andopeningthemagain,havefoundbutwitheredleaves.Below,herebythewater-side,wherethebowspritsofshipsstretchacrossthefootway,andalmostthrustthemselvesintothewindows,liethenobleAmericanvesselswhichhavingmadetheirPacketServicethefinestintheworld.Theyhavebroughthithertheforeignerswhoaboundinallthestreets:not,perhaps,thattherearemorehere,thaninothercommercialcities;butelsewhere,theyhaveparticularhaunts,andyoumustfindthemout;here,theypervadethetown.

WemustcrossBroadwayagain;gainingsomerefreshmentfromtheheat,inthesightofthegreatblocksofcleanicewhicharebeingcarriedintoshopsandbar-rooms;andthepine-applesandwater-melonsprofuselydisplayedforsale.Finest

reetsofspacioushouseshere,yousee!WallStreethasfurnishedanddismantledmanyofthemveryoftenandhereadeepgreenleafysquare.Besurethatisahospitablehousewithinmatestobeaffectionatelyrememberedalways,wheretheyhavetheopendoorandprettyshowofplantswithin,andwherethechildwithlaughingeyesispeepingoutofwindowatthelittledogbelow.Youwonderwhatmaybetheuseofthistallflagstaffintheby-street,withsomethinglikeLibertyshead-dressonitstop:sodoI.Butthereisapassionfortallflagstaffshereabout,andyoumayseeitstwinbrotherinfiveminutes,ifyouhaveamind.

AgainacrossBroadway,andsopassingfromthemany-colouredcrowdandglitterin



gshopsintoanotherlongmainstreet,theBowery.Arailroadyonder,see,wheretwostouthorsestrotalong,drawingascoreortwoofpeopleandagreatwoodenark,withease.Thestoresarepoorerhere;thepassengerslessgay.Clothesready-made,andmeatready-cooked,aretobeboughtintheseparts;andthelivelywhirlofcarriagesisexchangedforthedeeprumbleofcartsandwaggons.Thesesignswhicharesoplentiful,inshapelikeriverbuoys,orsmallballoons,hoistedbycordstopoles,anddanglingthere,announce,asyoumayseebylookingup,OYSTERSINEVERYSTYLE.Theytemptthehungrymostatnight,forthendullcandlesglimmeringinside,illuminatethesedaintywords,andmakethemouthsofidlerswater,astheyreadandlinger.

Whatisthisdismal-frontedpileofbastardEgyptian,likeanenchanterspalaceinamelodrama!afamousprison,calledTheTombs.Shallwegoin?

So.Along,narrow,loftybuilding,stove-heatedasusual,withfourgalleries,oneabovetheother,goingroundit,andcommunicatingbystairs.Betweenthetwosidesofeachgallery,andinitscentre,abridge,forthegreaterconvenienceofcrossing.Oneachofthesebridgessitsaman:dozingorreading,ortalkingtoanidlecompanion.Oneachtier,aretwooppositerowsofsmallirondoors.Theylooklikefurnace-doors,butarecoldandblack,asthoughthefireswithinhadallgoneout.Sometwoorthreeareopen,andwomen,withdroopingheadsbentdown,aretalkingtotheinmates.Thewholeislightedbyaskylight,butitisfastclosed;andfromtherooftheredangle,limpanddrooping,twouselesswindsails.

Amanwithkeysappears,toshowusround.Agood-lookingfellow,and,inhisway,civilandobliging.

Arethoseblackdoorsthecells?

Yes.

Aretheyallfull?

Well,theyreprettynighfull,andthatsafact,andnotwowaysaboutit.

Thoseatthebottomareunwholesome,surely?

Why,weDOonlyputcolouredpeopleinem.Thatsthetruth.

Whendotheprisonerstakeexercise?

Well,theydowithoutitprettymuch.

Dotheyneverwalkintheyard?

Considerableseldom.

Sometimes,Isuppose?

Well,itsraretheydo.Theykeepprettybrightwithoutit.

Butsupposeamanwerehereforatwelvemonth.Iknowthisisonlyaprisonforcriminalswhoarechargedwithgraveoffences,whiletheyareawaitingtheirtrial,orunderremand,butthelawhereaffordscriminalsmanymeansofdelay.Whatwithmotionsfornewtrials,andinarrestofjudgment,andwhatnot,aprisonermightbeherefortwelvemonths,Itakeit,mighthenot?

Well,Iguesshemight.



Doyoumeantosaythatinallthattimehewouldnevercomeoutatthatlittleirondoor,forexercise?

Hemightwalksome,perhapsnotmuch.

Willyouopenoneofthedoors?

All,ifyoulike.

Thefasteningsjarandrattle,andoneofthedoorsturnsslowlyonitshinges.Letuslookin.Asmallbarecell,intowhichthelightentersthroughahighchinkinthewall.Thereisarudemeansofwashing,atable,andabedstead.Uponthelatter,sitsamanofsixty;reading.Helooksupforamoment;givesanimpatientdoggedshake;andfixeshiseyesuponhisbookagain.Aswewithdrawourheads,thedoorclosesonhim,andisfastenedasbefore.Thismanhasmurderedhiswife,andwillprobablybehanged.

Howlonghashebeenhere?

Amonth.

Whenwillhebetried?

Nextterm.

Whenisthat?

Nextmonth.

InEngland,ifamanbeundersentenceofdeath,evenhehasairandexerciseatcertainperiodsoftheday.

Possible?

Withwhatstupendousanduntranslatablecoolnesshesaysthis,andhowlounginglyheleadsontothewomensside:making,ashegoes,akindofironcastanetofthekeyandthestair-rail!

Eachcelldooronthissidehasasquareapertureinit.Someofthewomenpeepanxiouslythroughitatthesoundoffootsteps;othersshrinkawayinshame.Forwhatoffencecanthatlonelychild,oftenortwelveyearsold,beshutuphere?Oh!thatboy?Heisthesonoftheprisonerwesawjustnow;isawitnessagainsthisfather;andisdetainedhereforsafekeeping,untilthetrial;thatsall.

Butitisadreadfulplaceforthechildtopassthelongdaysandnightsin.Thisisratherhardtreatmentforayoungwitness,isitnot?Whatsaysourconductor?

Well,itantaveryrowdylife,andTHATSafact!

Againheclinkshismetalcastanet,andleadsusleisurelyaway.Ihaveaquestiontoaskhimaswego.

Pray,whydotheycallthisplaceTheTombs?

Well,itsthecantname.

Iknowitis.Why?



Somesuicideshappenedhere,whenitwasfirstbuilt.Iexpectitcomeaboutfromthat.

Isawjustnow,thatthatmansclotheswerescatteredaboutthefloorofhiscell.Dontyouobligetheprisonerstobeorderly,andputsuchthingsaway?

Whereshouldtheyputem?

Notonthegroundsurely.Whatdoyousaytohangingthemup?

Hestopsandlooksroundtoemphasisehisanswer:

Why,Isaythatsjustit.WhentheyhadhookstheyWOULDhangthemselves,sotheyretakenoutofeverycell,andtheresonlythemarksleftwheretheyusedtobe!

Theprison-yardinwhichhepausesnow,hasbeenthesceneofterribleperformances.Intothisnarrow,grave-likeplace,menarebroughtouttodie.Thewretchedcreaturestandsbeneaththegibbetontheground;theropeabouthisneck;andwhenthesignisgiven,aweightatitsotherendcomesrunningdown,andswingshimupintotheairacorpse.

Thelawrequiresthattherebepresentatthisdismalspectacle,thejudge,thejury,andcitizenstotheamountoftwenty-five.Fromthecommunityitishidden.Tothedissoluteandbad,thethingremainsafrightfulmystery.Betweenthec

riminalandthem,theprison-wallisinterposedasathickgloomyveil.Itisthecurtaintohisbedofdeath,hiswinding-sheet,andgrave.Fromhimitshutsoutlife,andallthemotivestounrepentinghardihoodinthatlasthour,whichitsmeresightandpresenceisoftenall-sufficienttosustain.Therearenoboldeyestomakehimbold;noruffianstoupholdaruffiansnamebefore.Allbeyondthepitilessstonewall,isunknownspace.

Letusgoforthagainintothecheerfulstreets.

OncemoreinBroadway!Herearethesameladiesinbrightcolours,walkingtoandfro,inpairsandsingly;yondertheverysamelightblueparasolwhichpassedandrepassedthehotel-windowtwentytimeswhileweweresittingthere.Wearegoingtocrosshere.Takecareofthepigs.Twoportlysowsaretrottingupbehi

ndthiscarriage,andaselectpartyofhalf-a-dozengentlemenhogshavejustnowturnedthecorner.

Hereisasolitaryswinelounginghomewardbyhimself.Hehasonlyoneear;havingpartedwiththeothertovagrant-dogsinthecourseofhiscityrambles.Buthegetsonverywellwithoutit;andleadsaroving,gentlemanly,vagabondkindoflife,somewhatansweringtothatofourclub-menathome.Heleaveshislodgingseverymorningatacertainhour,throwshimselfuponthetown,getsthroughhisdayinsomemannerquitesatisfactorytohimself,andregularlyappearsatthedoorofhisownhouseagainatnight,likethemysteriousmasterofGilBlas.Heisafree-and-easy,careless,indifferentkindofpig,havingaverylargeacquaintanceamongotherpigsofthesamecharacter,whomheratherknowsbysightthanconversation,asheseldomtroubleshimselftostopandexchangeciviliti

es,butgoesgruntingdownthekennel,turningupthenewsandsmall-talkofthecityintheshapeofcabbage-stalksandoffal,andbearingnotailsbuthisown:whichisaveryshortone,forhisoldenemies,thedogs,havebeenatthattoo,andhavelefthimhardlyenoughtoswearby.Heisineveryrespectarepublicanpig,goingwhereverhepleases,andminglingwiththebestsociety,onanequal,ifnotsuperiorfooting,foreveryonemakeswaywhenheappears,andthehaughtiestgivehimthewall,ifhepreferit.Heisagreatphilosopher,andseldommoved,unlessbythedogsbeforementioned.Sometimes,indeed,youmayseehissmalleyetwinklingonaslaughteredfriend,whosecarcasegarnishesabutchersdoor-post,buthegruntsoutSuchislife:allfleshispork!burieshisnosein



themireagain,andwaddlesdownthegutter:comfortinghimselfwiththereflectionthatthereisonesnoutthelesstoanticipatestraycabbage-stalks,atanyrate.

Theyarethecityscavengers,thesepigs.Uglybrutestheyare;having,forthemostpart,scantybrownbacks,likethelidsofoldhorsehairtrunks:spottedwithunwholesomeblackblotches.Theyhavelong,gauntlegs,too,andsuchpeakedsnouts,thatifoneofthemcouldbepersuadedtositforhisprofile,nobodywouldrecogniseitforapigslikeness.Theyareneverattendedupon,orfed,ordriven,orcaught,butarethrownupontheirownresourcesinearlylife,andbecomepreternaturallyknowinginconsequence.Everypigknowswherehelives,muchbetterthananybodycouldtellhim.Atthishour,justaseveningisclosingin,youwillseethemroamingtowardsbedbyscores,eatingtheirwaytothelast.Occasionally,someyouthamongthemwhohasover-eatenhimself,orhasbeenworriedbydogs,trotsshrinkinglyhomeward,likeaprodigalson:butthisisararecase:perfectself-possessionandself-reliance,andimmovablecomposure,beingtheirforemostattributes.

Thestreetsandshopsarelightednow;andastheeyetravelsdownthelongthoroughfare,dottedwithbrightjetsofgas,itisremindedofOxfordStreet,orPiccadilly.Hereandthereaflightofbroadstonecellar-stepsappears,andapaintedlampdirectsyoutotheBowlingSaloon,orTen-Pinalley;Ten-Pinsbeingagameofmingledchanceandskill,inventedwhenthelegislaturepassedanactforbiddingNine-Pins.Atotherdownwardflightsofsteps,areotherlamps,marking

thewhereaboutsofoyster-cellarspleasantretreats,sayI:notonlybyreasonoftheirwonderfulcookeryofoysters,prettynighaslargeascheese-plates(orforthydearsake,heartiestofGreekProfessors!),butbecauseofallkindsofcatersoffish,orflesh,orfowl,intheselatitudes,theswallowersofoystersalonearenotgregarious;butsubduingthemselves,asitwere,tothenatureofwhattheyworkin,andcopyingthecoynessofthethingtheyeat,dositapartincurtainedboxes,andconsortbytwos,notbytwohundreds.

Buthowquietthestreetsare!Aretherenoitinerantbands;nowindorstringedinstruments?No,notone.Byday,aretherenoPunches,Fantoccini,Dancing-dogs,Jugglers,Conjurers,Orchestrinas,orevenBarrel-organs?No,notone.Yes,Irememberone.Onebarrel-organandadancing-monkeysportivebynature,butfastfadingintoadull,lumpishmonkey,oftheUtilitarianschool.Beyondthat,no

thinglively;no,notsomuchasawhitemouseinatwirlingcage.

Aretherenoamusements?Yes.Thereisalecture-roomacrosstheway,fromwhichthatglareoflightproceeds,andtheremaybeeveningservicefortheladiesthriceaweek,oroftener.Fortheyounggentlemen,thereisthecounting-house,thestore,thebar-room:thelatter,asyoumayseethroughthesewindows,prettyfull.Hark!totheclinkingsoundofhammersbreakinglumpsofice,andtothecoolgurglingofthepoundedbits,as,intheprocessofmixing,theyarepouredfromglasstoglass!Noamusements?Whatarethesesuckersofcigarsandswallowersofstrongdrinks,whosehatsandlegsweseeineverypossiblevarietyoftwist,doing,butamusingthemselves?Whatarethefiftynewspapers,whichthoseprecociousurchinsarebawlingdownthestreet,andwhicharekeptfiledwithin,whataretheybutamusements?Notvapid,waterishamusements,butgoodstrong

stuff;dealinginroundabuseandblackguardnames;pullingofftheroofsofprivatehouses,astheHaltingDevildidinSpain;pimpingandpanderingforalldegreesofvicioustaste,andgorgingwithcoinedliesthemostvoraciousmaw;imputingtoeverymaninpubliclifethecoarsestandthevilestmotives;scaringawayfromthestabbedandprostratebody-politic,everySamaritanofclearconscienceandgooddeeds;andsettingon,withyellandwhistleandtheclappingoffoulhands,thevilestverminandworstbirdsofprey.Noamusements!

Letusgoonagain;andpassingthiswildernessofanhotelwithstoresaboutitsbase,likesomeContinentaltheatre,ortheLondonOperaHouseshornofitsco



lonnade,plungeintotheFivePoints.Butitisneedful,first,thatwetakeasourescortthesetwoheadsofthepolice,whomyouwouldknowforsharpandwell-trainedofficersifyoumetthemintheGreatDesert.Sotrueitis,thatcertainpursuits,wherevercarriedon,willstampmenwiththesamecharacter.Thesetwomighthavebeenbegotten,born,andbred,inBowStreet.

Wehaveseennobeggarsinthestreetsbynightorday;butofotherkindsofstrollers,plenty.Poverty,wretchedness,andvice,arerifeenoughwherewearegoingnow.

Thisistheplace:thesenarrowways,divergingtotherightandleft,andreekingeverywherewithdirtandfilth.Suchlivesasareledhere,bearthesamefruitshereaselsewhere.Thecoarseandbloatedfacesatthedoors,havecounterpartsathome,andallthewideworldover.Debaucheryhasmadetheveryhousesprematurelyold.Seehowtherottenbeamsaretumblingdown,andhowthepatchedandbrokenwindowsseemtoscowldimly,likeeyesthathavebeenhurtindrunkenfrays.Manyofthosepigslivehere.Dotheyeverwonderwhytheirmasterswalkuprightinlieuofgoingonall-fours?andwhytheytalkinsteadofgrunting?

Sofar,nearlyeveryhouseisalowtavern;andonthebar-roomwalls,arecolouredprintsofWashington,andQueenVictoriaofEngland,andtheAmericanEagle.Amongthepigeon-holesthatholdthebottles,arepiecesofplate-glassandcolouredpaper,forthereis,insomesort,atastefordecoration,evenhere.Andasseamenfrequentthesehaunts,therearemaritimepicturesbythedozen:ofpa

rtingsbetweensailorsandtheirlady-loves,portraitsofWilliam,oftheballad,andhisBlack-EyedSusan;ofWillWatch,theBoldSmuggler;ofPaulJonesthePirate,andthelike:onwhichthepaintedeyesofQueenVictoria,andofWashingtontoboot,restinasstrangecompanionship,asonmostofthescenesthatareenactedintheirwonderingpresence.

Whatplaceisthis,towhichthesqualidstreetconductsus?Akindofsquareofleproushouses,someofwhichareattainableonlybycrazywoodenstairswithout.Whatliesbeyondthistotteringflightofsteps,thatcreakbeneathourtread?amiserableroom,lightedbyonedimcandle,anddestituteofallcomfort,savethatwhichmaybehiddeninawretchedbed.Besideit,sitsaman:hiselbowsonhisknees:hisforeheadhiddeninhishands.Whatailsthatman?askstheforemostofficer.Fever,hesullenlyreplies,withoutlookingup.Conceivethefancies

ofafeverishbrain,insuchaplaceasthis!

Ascendthesepitch-darkstairs,heedfulofafalsefootingonthetremblingboards,andgropeyourwaywithmeintothiswolfishden,whereneitherrayoflightnorbreathofair,appearstocome.Anegrolad,startledfromhissleepbytheofficersvoiceheknowsitwellbutcomfortedbyhisassurancethathehasnotcomeonbusiness,officiouslybestirshimselftolightacandle.Thematchflickersforamoment,andshowsgreatmoundsofdustyragsupontheground;thendiesawayandleavesadenserdarknessthanbefore,iftherecanbedegreesinsuchextremes.Hestumblesdownthestairsandpresentlycomesback,shadingaflaringtaperwithhishand.Thenthemoundsofragsareseentobeastir,andriseslowlyup,andtheflooriscoveredwithheapsofnegrowomen,wakingfromtheirsleep:theirwhiteteethchattering,andtheirbrighteyesglisteningandwinking

onallsideswithsurpriseandfear,likethecountlessrepetitionofoneastonishedAfricanfaceinsomestrangemirror.

Mountuptheseotherstairswithnolesscaution(therearetrapsandpitfallshere,forthosewhoarenotsowellescortedasourselves)intothehousetop;wherethebarebeamsandraftersmeetoverhead,andcalmnightlooksdownthroughthecrevicesintheroof.Openthedoorofoneofthesecrampedhutchesfullofsleepingnegroes.Pah!Theyhaveacharcoalfirewithin;thereisasmellofsingeingclothes,orflesh,soclosetheygatherroundthebrazier;andvapoursissueforththatblindandsuffocate.Fromeverycorner,asyouglanceaboutyouin



thesedarkretreats,somefigurecrawlshalf-awakened,asifthejudgment-hourwerenearathand,andeveryobscenegraveweregivingupitsdead.Wheredogswouldhowltolie,women,andmen,andboysslinkofftosleep,forcingthedislodgedratstomoveawayinquestofbetterlodgings.

Heretooarelanesandalleys,pavedwithmudknee-deep,undergroundchambers,wheretheydanceandgame;thewallsbedeckedwithroughdesignsofships,andforts,andflags,andAmericaneaglesoutofnumber:ruinedhouses,opentothestreet,whence,throughwidegapsinthewalls,otherruinsloomupontheeye,asthoughtheworldofviceandmiseryhadnothingelsetoshow:hideoustenementswhichtaketheirnamefromrobberyandmurder:allthatisloathsome,drooping,anddecayedishere.

OurleaderhashishanduponthelatchofAlmacks,andcallstousfromthebottomofthesteps;fortheassembly-roomoftheFivePointfashionablesisapproachedbyadescent.Shallwegoin?Itisbutamoment.

Heyday!thelandladyofAlmacksthrives!Abuxomfatmulattowoman,withsparklingeyes,whoseheadisdaintilyornamentedwithahandkerchiefofmanycolours.Noristhelandlordmuchbehindherinhisfinery,beingattiredinasmartbluejacket,likeashipssteward,withathickgoldringuponhislittlefinger,androundhisneckagleaminggoldenwatch-guard.Howgladheistoseeus!Whatwillwepleasetocallfor?Adance?Itshallbedonedirectly,sir:aregularbreak-down.

Thecorpulentblackfiddler,andhisfriendwhoplaysthetambourine,stampupontheboardingofthesmallraisedorchestrainwhichtheysit,andplayalivelymeasure.Fiveorsixcouplecomeuponthefloor,marshalledbyalivelyyoungnegro,whoisthewitoftheassembly,andthegreatestdancerknown.Heneverleavesoffmakingqueerfaces,andisthedelightofalltherest,whogrinfromeartoearincessantly.Amongthedancersaretwoyoungmulattogirls,withlarge,black,droopingeyes,andhead-gearafterthefashionofthehostess,whoareasshy,orfeigntobe,asthoughtheyneverdancedbefore,andsolookdownbeforethevisitors,thattheirpartnerscanseenothingbutthelongfringedlashes.

Butthedancecommences.Everygentlemansetsaslongashelikestotheopposit

elady,andtheoppositeladytohim,andallaresolongaboutitthatthesportbeginstolanguish,whensuddenlythelivelyherodashesintotherescue.Instantlythefiddlergrins,andgoesatittoothandnail;thereisnewenergyinthetambourine;newlaughterinthedancers;newsmilesinthelandlady;newconfidenceinthelandlord;newbrightnessintheverycandles.

Singleshuffle,doubleshuffle,cutandcross-cut;snappinghisfingers,rollinghiseyes,turninginhisknees,presentingthebacksofhislegsinfront,spinningaboutonhistoesandheelslikenothingbutthemansfingersonthetambourine;dancingwithtwoleftlegs,tworightlegs,twowoodenlegs,twowirelegs,twospringlegsallsortsoflegsandnolegswhatisthistohim?Andinwhatwalkoflife,ordanceoflife,doesmanevergetsuchstimulatingapplauseasthundersabouthim,when,havingdancedhispartneroffherfeet,andhimselftoo

,hefinishesbyleapinggloriouslyonthebar-counter,andcallingforsomethingtodrink,withthechuckleofamillionofcounterfeitJimCrows,inoneinimitablesound!

Theair,eveninthesedistemperedparts,isfreshafterthestiflingatmosphereofthehouses;andnow,asweemergeintoabroaderstreet,itblowsuponuswithapurerbreath,andthestarslookbrightagain.HereareTheTombsoncemore.Thecitywatch-houseisapartofthebuilding.Itfollowsnaturallyonthesightswehavejustleft.Letusseethat,andthentobed.



What!doyouthrustyourcommonoffendersagainstthepolicedisciplineofthetown,intosuchholesasthese?Domenandwomen,againstwhomnocrimeisproved,liehereallnightinperfectdarkness,surroundedbythenoisomevapourswhichencirclethatflagginglampyoulightuswith,andbreathingthisfilthyandoffensivestench!Why,suchindecentanddisgustingdungeonsasthesecells,wouldbringdisgraceuponthemostdespoticempireintheworld!Lookatthem,manyou,whoseethemeverynight,andkeepthekeys.Doyouseewhattheyare?Doyouknowhowdrainsaremadebelowthestreets,andwhereinthesehumansewersdiffer,exceptinbeingalwaysstagnant?

Well,hedontknow.Hehashadfive-and-twentyyoungwomenlockedupinthisverycellatonetime,andyoudhardlyrealisewhathandsomefacestherewereamongem.

InGodsname!shutthedooruponthewretchedcreaturewhoisinitnow,andputitsscreenbeforeaplace,quiteunsurpassedinallthevice,neglect,anddevilry,oftheworstoldtowninEurope.

Arepeoplereallyleftallnight,untried,inthoseblacksties?Everynight.Thewatchissetatsevenintheevening.Themagistrateopenshiscourtatfiveinthemorning.Thatistheearliesthouratwhichthefirstprisonercanbereleased;andifanofficerappearagainsthim,heisnottakenouttillnineoclockorten.Butifanyoneamongthemdieintheinterval,asonemandid,notlongago?Thenheishalf-eatenbytheratsinanhourstime;asthatmanwas;andthe

reanend.

Whatisthisintolerabletollingofgreatbells,andcrashingofwheels,andshoutinginthedistance?Afire.Andwhatthatdeepredlightintheoppositedirection?Anotherfire.Andwhatthesecharredandblackenedwallswestandbefore?Adwellingwhereafirehasbeen.Itwasmorethanhinted,inanofficialreport,notlongago,thatsomeoftheseconflagrationswerenotwhollyaccidental,andthatspeculationandenterprisefoundafieldofexertion,eveninflames:butbethisasitmay,therewasafirelastnight,therearetwoto-night,andyoumaylayanevenwagertherewillbeatleastone,to-morrow.So,carryingthatwithusforourcomfort,letussay,Goodnight,andclimbup-stairstobed.

Oneday,duringmystayinNewYork,Ipaidavisittothedifferentpublicinst

itutionsonLongIsland,orRhodeIsland:Iforgetwhich.OneofthemisaLunaticAsylum.Thebuildingishandsome;andisremarkableforaspaciousandelegantstaircase.Thewholestructureisnotyetfinished,butitisalreadyoneofconsiderablesizeandextent,andiscapableofaccommodatingaverylargenumberofpatients.

IcannotsaythatIderivedmuchcomfortfromtheinspectionofthischarity.Thedifferentwardsmighthavebeencleanerandbetterordered;Isawnothingofthatsalutarysystemwhichhadimpressedmesofavourablyelsewhere;andeverythinghadalounging,listless,madhouseair,whichwasverypainful.Themopingidiot,coweringdownwithlongdishevelledhair;thegibberingmaniac,withhishideouslaughandpointedfinger;thevacanteye,thefiercewildface,thegloomypickingofthehandsandlips,andmunchingofthenails:theretheywereall,

withoutdisguise,innakeduglinessandhorror.Inthedining-room,abare,dull,drearyplace,withnothingfortheeyetorestonbuttheemptywalls,awomanwaslockedupalone.Shewasbent,theytoldme,oncommittingsuicide.Ifanythingcouldhavestrengthenedherinherresolution,itwouldcertainlyhavebeentheinsupportablemonotonyofsuchanexistence.

Theterriblecrowdwithwhichthesehallsandgallerieswerefilled,soshockedme,thatIabridgedmystaywithintheshortestlimits,anddeclinedtoseethatportionofthebuildinginwhichtherefractoryandviolentwereundercloserrestraint.Ihavenodoubtthatthegentlemanwhopresidedoverthisestablishmen



tatthetimeIwriteof,wascompetenttomanageit,andhaddoneallinhispowertopromoteitsusefulness:butwillitbebelievedthatthemiserablestrifeofPartyfeelingiscarriedevenintothissadrefugeofafflictedanddegradedhumanity?Willitbebelievedthattheeyeswhicharetowatchoverandcontrolthewanderingsofmindsonwhichthemostdreadfulvisitationtowhichournatureisexposedhasfallen,mustweartheglassesofsomewretchedsideinPolitics?Willitbebelievedthatthegovernorofsuchahouseasthis,isappointed,anddeposed,andchangedperpetually,asPartiesfluctuateandvary,andastheirdespicableweathercocksareblownthiswayorthat?Ahundredtimesineveryweek,somenewmostpaltryexhibitionofthatnarrow-mindedandinjuriousPartySpirit,whichistheSimoomofAmerica,sickeningandblightingeverythingofwholesomelifewithinitsreach,wasforceduponmynotice;butIneverturnedmybackuponitwithfeelingsofsuchdeepdisgustandmeasurelesscontempt,aswhenIcrossedthethresholdofthismadhouse.

AtashortdistancefromthisbuildingisanothercalledtheAlmsHouse,thatistosay,theworkhouseofNewYork.ThisisalargeInstitutionalso:lodging,Ibelieve,whenIwasthere,nearlyathousandpoor.Itwasbadlyventilated,andbadlylighted;wasnottooclean;andimpressedme,onthewhole,veryuncomfortably.ButitmustberememberedthatNewYork,asagreatemporiumofcommerce,andasaplaceofgeneralresort,notonlyfromallpartsoftheStates,butfrommostpartsoftheworld,hasalwaysalargepauperpopulationtoprovidefor;andlabours,therefore,underpeculiardifficultiesinthisrespect.NormustitbeforgottenthatNewYorkisalargetown,andthatinalllargetownsavast

amountofgoodandevilisintermixedandjumbleduptogether.

InthesameneighbourhoodistheFarm,whereyoungorphansarenursedandbred.Ididnotseeit,butIbelieveitiswellconducted;andIcanthemoreeasilycreditit,fromknowinghowmindfultheyusuallyare,inAmerica,ofthatbeautifulpassageintheLitanywhichremembersallsickpersonsandyoungchildren.

IwastakentotheseInstitutionsbywater,inaboatbelongingtotheIslandjail,androwedbyacrewofprisoners,whoweredressedinastripeduniformofblackandbuff,inwhichtheylookedlikefadedtigers.Theytookme,bythesameconveyance,tothejailitself.

Itisanoldprison,andquiteapioneerestablishment,ontheplanIhavealrea

dydescribed.Iwasgladtohearthis,foritisunquestionablyaveryindifferentone.Themostismade,however,ofthemeansitpossesses,anditisaswellregulatedassuchaplacecanbe.

Thewomenworkincoveredsheds,erectedforthatpurpose.IfIrememberright,therearenoshopsforthemen,butbethatasitmay,thegreaterpartofthemlabourincertainstone-quarriesnearathand.Thedaybeingverywetindeed,thislabourwassuspended,andtheprisonerswereintheircells.Imaginethesecells,sometwoorthreehundredinnumber,andineveryoneamanlockedup;thisoneathisdoorforair,withhishandsthrustthroughthegrate;thisoneinbed(inthemiddleoftheday,remember);andthisoneflungdowninaheapupontheground,withhisheadagainstthebars,likeawildbeast.Maketherainpourdown,outside,intorrents.Puttheeverlastingstoveinthemidst;hot,ands

uffocating,andvaporous,asawitchscauldron.Addacollectionofgentleodours,suchaswouldarisefromathousandmildewedumbrellas,wetthrough,andathousandbuck-baskets,fullofhalf-washedlinenandthereistheprison,asitwasthatday.

TheprisonfortheStateatSingSingis,ontheotherhand,amodeljail.That,andAuburn,are,Ibelieve,thelargestandbestexamplesofthesilentsystem.

Inanotherpartofthecity,istheRefugefortheDestitute:anInstitutionwhoseobjectistoreclaimyouthfuloffenders,maleandfemale,blackandwhite,wi



thoutdistinction;toteachthemusefultrades,apprenticethemtorespectablemasters,andmakethemworthymembersofsociety.Itsdesign,itwillbeseen,issimilartothatatBoston;anditisanolessmeritoriousandadmirableestablishment.Asuspicioncrossedmymindduringmyinspectionofthisnoblecharity,whetherthesuperintendenthadquitesufficientknowledgeoftheworldandworldlycharacters;andwhetherhedidnotcommitagreatmistakeintreatingsomeyounggirls,whoweretoallintentsandpurposes,bytheiryearsandtheirpastlives,women,asthoughtheywerelittlechildren;whichcertainlyhadaludicrouseffectinmyeyes,and,orIammuchmistaken,intheirsalso.AstheInstitution,however,isalwaysunderavigilantexaminationofabodyofgentlemenofgreatintelligenceandexperience,itcannotfailtobewellconducted;andwhetherIamrightorwronginthisslightparticular,isunimportanttoitsdesertsandcharacter,whichitwouldbedifficulttoestimatetoohighly.

Inadditiontotheseestablishments,thereareinNewYork,excellenthospitalsandschools,literaryinstitutionsandlibraries;anadmirablefiredepartment(asindeeditshouldbe,havingconstantpractice),andcharitiesofeverysortandkind.Inthesuburbsthereisaspaciouscemetery:unfinishedyet,buteverydayimproving.ThesaddesttombIsawtherewasTheStrangersGrave.Dedicatedtothedifferenthotelsinthiscity.

Therearethreeprincipaltheatres.Twoofthem,theParkandtheBowery,arelarge,elegant,andhandsomebuildings,andare,Igrievetowriteit,generallydeserted.Thethird,theOlympic,isatinyshow-boxforvaudevillesandburlesqu

es.ItissingularlywellconductedbyMr.Mitchell,acomicactorofgreatquiethumourandoriginality,whoiswellrememberedandesteemedbyLondonplaygoers.Iamhappytoreportofthisdeservinggentleman,thathisbenchesareusuallywellfilled,andthathistheatreringswithmerrimenteverynight.Ihadalmostforgottenasmallsummertheatre,calledNiblos,withgardensandopenairamusementsattached;butIbelieveitisnotexemptfromthegeneraldepressionunderwhichTheatricalProperty,orwhatishumorouslycalledbythatname,unfortunatelylabours.

ThecountryroundNewYorkissurpassinglyandexquisitelypicturesque.Theclimate,asIhavealreadyintimated,issomewhatofthewarmest.Whatitwouldbe,withouttheseabreezeswhichcomefromitsbeautifulBayintheeveningtime,Iwillnotthrowmyselformyreadersintoafeverbyinquiring.

Thetoneofthebestsocietyinthiscity,islikethatofBoston;hereandthere,itmaybe,withagreaterinfusionofthemercantilespirit,butgenerallypolishedandrefined,andalwaysmosthospitable.Thehousesandtablesareelegant;thehourslaterandmorerakish;andthereis,perhaps,agreaterspiritofcontentioninreferencetoappearances,andthedisplayofwealthandcostlyliving.Theladiesaresingularlybeautiful.

BeforeIleftNewYorkImadearrangementsforsecuringapassagehomeintheGeorgeWashingtonpacketship,whichwasadvertisedtosailinJune:thatbeingthemonthinwhichIhaddetermined,ifpreventedbynoaccidentinthecourseofmyramblings,toleaveAmerica.

IneverthoughtthatgoingbacktoEngland,returningtoallwhoaredeartome,andtopursuitsthathaveinsensiblygrowntobeapartofmynature,IcouldhavefeltsomuchsorrowasIendured,whenIpartedatlast,onboardthisship,withthefriendswhohadaccompaniedmefromthiscity.Ineverthoughtthenameofanyplace,sofarawayandsolatelyknown,couldeverassociateitselfinmymindwiththecrowdofaffectionateremembrancesthatnowclusteraboutit.Therearethoseinthiscitywhowouldbrighten,tome,thedarkestwinter-daythateverglimmeredandwentoutinLapland;andbeforewhosepresenceevenHomegrewdim,whentheyandIexchangedthatpainfulwordwhichmingleswithoureverythoughtanddeed;whichhauntsourcradle-headsininfancy,andclosesupthe



vistaofourlivesinage.

ChapterVIIPhiladelphia,anditsSolitaryPrison

THEjourneyfromNewYorktoPhiladelphia,ismadebyrailroad,andtwoferries;andusuallyoccupiesbetweenfiveandsixhours.Itwasafineeveningwhenwewerepassengersinthetrain:andwatchingthebrightsunsetfromalittlewindownearthedoorbywhichwesat,myattentionwasattractedtoaremarkableappearanceissuingfromthewindowsofthegentlemanscarimmediatelyinfrontofus,whichIsupposedforsometimewasoccasionedbyanumberofindustriouspersonsinside,rippingopenfeather-beds,andgivingthefeatherstothewind.Atlengthitoccurredtomethattheywereonlyspitting,whichwasindeedthecase;thoughhowanynumberofpassengerswhichitwaspossibleforthatcartocontain,couldhavemaintainedsuchaplayfulandincessantshowerofexpectoration,Iamstillatalosstounderstand:notwithstandingtheexperienceinallsalivatoryphenomenawhichIafterwardsacquired.

Imadeacquaintance,onthisjourney,withamildandmodestyoungquaker,whoopenedthediscoursebyinformingme,inagravewhisper,thathisgrandfatherwastheinventorofcold-drawncastoroil.Imentionthecircumstancehere,thinkingitprobablethatthisisthefirstoccasiononwhichthevaluablemedicineinquestionwaseverusedasaconversationalaperient.

Wereachedthecity,latethatnight.Lookingoutofmychamber-window,beforegoingtobed,Isaw,ontheoppositesideoftheway,ahandsomebuildingofwhitemarble,whichhadamournfulghost-likeaspect,drearytobehold.Iattributedthistothesombreinfluenceofthenight,andonrisinginthemorninglookedoutagain,expectingtoseeitsstepsandporticothrongedwithgroupsofpeoplepassinginandout.Thedoorwasstilltightshut,however;thesamecoldcheerlessairprevailed:andthebuildinglookedasifthemarblestatueofDonGuzmancouldalonehaveanybusinesstotransactwithinitsgloomywalls.Ihastenedtoinquireitsnameandpurpose,andthenmysurprisevanished.ItwastheTombofmanyfortunes;theGreatCatacombofinvestment;thememorableUnitedStatesBank.

Thestoppageofthisbank,withallitsruinousconsequences,hadcast(asIwas

toldoneveryside)agloomonPhiladelphia,underthedepressingeffectofwhichityetlaboured.Itcertainlydidseemratherdullandoutofspirits.

Itisahandsomecity,butdistractinglyregular.Afterwalkingaboutitforanhourortwo,IfeltthatIwouldhavegiventheworldforacrookedstreet.Thecollarofmycoatappearedtostiffen,andthebrimofmybattoexpand,beneathitsquakeryinfluence.Myhairshrunkintoasleekshortcrop,myhandsfoldedthemselvesuponmybreastoftheirowncalmaccord,andthoughtsoftakinglodgingsinMarkLaneoveragainsttheMarketPlace,andofmakingalargefortunebyspeculationsincorn,cameovermeinvoluntarily.

Philadelphiaismostbountifullyprovidedwithfreshwater,whichisshoweredandjerkedabout,andturnedon,andpouredoff,everywhere.TheWaterworks,which

areonaheightnearthecity,arenolessornamentalthanuseful,beingtastefullylaidoutasapublicgarden,andkeptinthebestandneatestorder.Theriverisdammedatthispoint,andforcedbyitsownpowerintocertainhightanksorreservoirs,whencethewholecity,tothetopstoriesofthehouses,issuppliedataverytriflingexpense.

Therearevariouspublicinstitutions.AmongthemamostexcellentHospitalaquakerestablishment,butnotsectarianinthegreatbenefitsitconfers;aquiet,quaintoldLibrary,namedafterFranklin;ahandsomeExchangeandPostOffice;andsoforth.InconnectionwiththequakerHospital,thereisapicturebyWest



,whichisexhibitedforthebenefitofthefundsoftheinstitution.Thesubjectis,ourSaviourhealingthesick,anditis,perhaps,asfavourableaspecimenofthemasterascanbeseenanywhere.Whetherthisbehighorlowpraise,dependsuponthereaderstaste.

Inthesameroom,thereisaverycharacteristicandlife-likeportraitbyMr.Sully,adistinguishedAmericanartist.

MystayinPhiladelphiawasveryshort,butwhatIsawofitssociety,Igreatlyliked.Treatingofitsgeneralcharacteristics,IshouldbedisposedtosaythatitismoreprovincialthanBostonorNewYork,andthatthereisafloatinthefaircity,anassumptionoftasteandcriticism,savouringratherofthosegenteeldiscussionsuponthesamethemes,inconnectionwithShakspeareandtheMusicalGlasses,ofwhichwereadintheVicarofWakefield.Nearthecity,isamostsplendidunfinishedmarblestructurefortheGirardCollege,foundedbyadeceasedgentlemanofthatnameandofenormouswealth,which,ifcompletedaccordingtotheoriginaldesign,willbeperhapstherichestedificeofmoderntimes.Butthebequestisinvolvedinlegaldisputes,andpendingthemtheworkhasstopped;sothatlikemanyothergreatundertakingsinAmerica,eventhisisrathergoingtobedoneoneofthesedays,thandoingnow.

Intheoutskirts,standsagreatprison,calledtheEasternPenitentiary:conductedonaplanpeculiartothestateofPennsylvania.Thesystemhere,isrigid,strict,andhopelesssolitaryconfinement.Ibelieveit,initseffects,tobec

ruelandwrong.

Initsintention,Iamwellconvincedthatitiskind,humane,andmeantforreformation;butIampersuadedthatthosewhodevisedthissystemofPrisonDiscipline,andthosebenevolentgentlemenwhocarryitintoexecution,donotknowwhatitisthattheyaredoing.Ibelievethatveryfewmenarecapableofestimatingtheimmenseamountoftortureandagonywhichthisdreadfulpunishment,prolongedforyears,inflictsuponthesufferers;andinguessingatitmyself,andinreasoningfromwhatIhaveseenwrittenupontheirfaces,andwhattomycertainknowledgetheyfeelwithin,Iamonlythemoreconvincedthatthereisadepthofterribleenduranceinitwhichnonebutthesufferersthemselvescanfathom,andwhichnomanhasarighttoinflictuponhisfellow-creature.Iholdthisslowanddailytamperingwiththemysteriesofthebrain,tobeimmeasurablywo

rsethananytortureofthebody:andbecauseitsghastlysignsandtokensarenotsopalpabletotheeyeandsenseoftouchasscarsupontheflesh;becauseitswoundsarenotuponthesurface,anditextortsfewcriesthathumanearscanhear;thereforeIthemoredenounceit,asasecretpunishmentwhichslumberinghumanityisnotrouseduptostay.Ihesitatedonce,debatingwithmyself,whether,ifIhadthepowerofsayingYesorNo,Iwouldallowittobetriedincertaincases,wherethetermsofimprisonmentwereshort;butnow,Isolemnlydeclare,thatwithnorewardsorhonourscouldIwalkahappymanbeneaththeopenskybyday,orliemedownuponmybedatnight,withtheconsciousnessthatonehumancreature,foranylengthoftime,nomatterwhat,laysufferingthisunknownpunishmentinhissilentcell,andIthecause,orIconsentingtoitintheleastdegree.

Iwasaccompaniedtothisprisonbytwogentlemenofficiallyconnectedwithitsmanagement,andpassedthedayingoingfromcelltocell,andtalkingwiththeinmates.Everyfacilitywasaffordedme,thattheutmostcourtesycouldsuggest.Nothingwasconcealedorhiddenfrommyview,andeverypieceofinformationthatIsought,wasopenlyandfranklygiven.Theperfectorderofthebuildingcannotbepraisedtoohighly,andoftheexcellentmotivesofallwhoareimmediatelyconcernedintheadministrationofthesystem,therecanbenokindofquestion.

Betweenthebodyoftheprisonandtheouterwall,thereisaspaciousgarden.E



nteringit,byawicketinthemassivegate,wepursuedthepathbeforeustoitsothertermination,andpassedintoalargechamber,fromwhichsevenlongpassagesradiate.Oneithersideofeach,isalong,longrowoflowcelldoors,withacertainnumberovereveryone.Above,agalleryofcellslikethosebelow,exceptthattheyhavenonarrowyardattached(asthoseinthegroundtierhave),andaresomewhatsmaller.Thepossessionoftwoofthese,issupposedtocompensatefortheabsenceofsomuchairandexerciseascanbehadinthedullstripattachedtoeachoftheothers,inanhourstimeeveryday;andthereforeeveryprisonerinthisupperstoryhastwocells,adjoiningandcommunicatingwith,eachother.

Standingatthecentralpoint,andlookingdownthesedrearypassages,thedullreposeandquietthatprevails,isawful.Occasionally,thereisadrowsysoundfromsomeloneweaversshuttle,orshoemakerslast,butitisstifledbythethickwallsandheavydungeon-door,andonlyservestomakethegeneralstillnessmoreprofound.Overtheheadandfaceofeveryprisonerwhocomesintothismelancholyhouse,ablackhoodisdrawn;andinthisdarkshroud,anemblemofthecurtaindroppedbetweenhimandthelivingworld,heisledtothecellfromwhichheneveragaincomesforth,untilhiswholetermofimprisonmenthasexpired.Heneverhearsofwifeandchildren;homeorfriends;thelifeordeathofanysinglecreature.Heseestheprison-officers,butwiththatexceptionheneverlooksuponahumancountenance,orhearsahumanvoice.Heisamanburiedalive;tobedugoutintheslowroundofyears;andinthemeantimedeadtoeverythingbuttorturinganxietiesandhorribledespair.

Hisname,andcrime,andtermofsuffering,areunknown,eventotheofficerwhodelivershimhisdailyfood.Thereisanumberoverhiscell-door,andinabookofwhichthegovernoroftheprisonhasonecopy,andthemoralinstructoranother:thisistheindexofhishistory.Beyondthesepagestheprisonhasnorecordofhisexistence:andthoughhelivetobeinthesamecelltenwearyyears,hehasnomeansofknowing,downtotheverylasthour,inwhichpartofthebuildingitissituated;whatkindofmenthereareabouthim;whetherinthelongwinternightstherearelivingpeoplenear,orheisinsomelonelycornerofthegreatjail,withwalls,andpassages,andirondoorsbetweenhimandthenearestsharerinitssolitaryhorrors.

Everycellhasdoubledoors:theouteroneofsturdyoak,theotherofgratedir

on,whereinthereisatrapthroughwhichhisfoodishanded.HehasaBible,andaslateandpencil,and,undercertainrestrictions,hassometimesotherbooks,providedforthepurpose,andpenandinkandpaper.Hisrazor,plate,andcan,andbasin,hanguponthewall,orshineuponthelittleshelf.Freshwaterislaidonineverycell,andhecandrawitathispleasure.Duringtheday,hisbedsteadturnsupagainstthewall,andleavesmorespaceforhimtoworkin.Hisloom,orbench,orwheel,isthere;andtherehelabours,sleepsandwakes,andcountstheseasonsastheychange,andgrowsold.

ThefirstmanIsaw,wasseatedathisloom,atwork.Hehadbeentheresixyears,andwastoremain,Ithink,threemore.Hehadbeenconvictedasareceiverofstolengoods,butevenafterhislongimprisonment,deniedhisguilt,andsaidhehadbeenhardlydealtby.Itwashissecondoffence.

Hestoppedhisworkwhenwewentin,tookoffhisspectacles,andansweredfreelytoeverythingthatwassaidtohim,butalwayswithastrangekindofpausefirst,andinalow,thoughtfulvoice.Heworeapaperhatofhisownmaking,andwaspleasedtohaveitnoticedandcommanded.HehadveryingeniouslymanufacturedasortofDutchclockfromsomedisregardedoddsandends;andhisvinegar-bottleservedforthependulum.Seeingmeinterestedinthiscontrivance,helookedupatitwithagreatdealofpride,andsaidthathehadbeenthinkingofimprovingit,andthathehopedthehammerandalittlepieceofbrokenglassbesideitwouldplaymusicbeforelong.Hehadextractedsomecoloursfromtheyarnwit



hwhichheworked,andpaintedafewpoorfiguresonthewall.One,ofafemale,overthedoor,hecalledTheLadyoftheLake.

HesmiledasIlookedatthesecontrivancestowhileawaythetime;butwhenIlookedfromthemtohim,Isawthathisliptrembled,andcouldhavecountedthebeatingofhisheart.Iforgethowitcameabout,butsomeallusionwasmadetohishavingawife.Heshookhisheadattheword,turnedaside,andcoveredhisfacewithhishands.

Butyouareresignednow!saidoneofthegentlemenafterashortpause,duringwhichhehadresumedhisformermanner.Heansweredwithasighthatseemedquiterecklessinitshopelessness,Ohyes,ohyes!Iamresignedtoit.Andareabetterman,youthink?Well,Ihopeso:ImsureIhopeImaybe.Andtimegoesprettyquly?Timeisverylonggentlemen,withinthesefourwalls!

HegazedabouthimHeavenonlyknowshowwearily!ashesaidthesewords;andintheactofdoingso,fellintoastrangestareasifhehadforgottensomething.Amomentafterwardshesighedheavily,putonhisspectacles,andwentabouthisworkagain.

Inanothercell,therewasaGerman,sentencedtofiveyearsimprisonmentforlarceny,twoofwhichhadjustexpired.Withcoloursprocuredinthesamemanner,hehadpaintedeveryinchofthewallsandceilingquitebeautifully.Hehadlaidoutthefewfeetofground,behind,withexquisiteneatness,andhadmadealit

tlebedinthecentre,thatlooked,by-the-bye,likeagrave.Thetasteandingenuityhehaddisplayedineverythingweremostextraordinary;andyetamoredejected,heart-broken,wretchedcreature,itwouldbedifficulttoimagine.Ineversawsuchapictureofforlornafflictionanddistressofmind.Myheartbledforhim;andwhenthetearsrandownhischeeks,andhetookoneofthevisitorsaside,toask,withhistremblinghandsnervouslyclutchingathiscoattodetainhim,whethertherewasnohopeofhisdismalsentencebeingcommuted,thespectaclewasreallytoopainfultowitness.Ineversaworheardofanykindofmiserythatimpressedmemorethanthewretchednessofthisman.

Inathirdcell,wasatall,strongblack,aburglar,workingathispropertradeofmakingscrewsandthelike.Histimewasnearlyout.Hewasnotonlyaverydexterousthief,butwasnotoriousforhisboldnessandhardihood,andforthe

numberofhispreviousconvictions.Heentertaineduswithalongaccountofhisachievements,whichhenarratedwithsuchinfiniterelish,thatheactuallyseemedtolickhislipsashetoldusracyanecdotesofstolenplate,andofoldladieswhomhehadwatchedastheysatatwindowsinsilverspectacles(hehadplainlyhadaneyetotheirmetalevenfromtheothersideofthestreet)andhadafterwardsrobbed.Thisfellow,upontheslightestencouragement,wouldhavemingledwithhisprofessionalrecollectionsthemostdetestablecant;butIamverymuchmistakenifhecouldhavesurpassedtheunmitigatedhypocrisywithwhichhedeclaredthatheblessedthedayonwhichhecameintothatprison,andthatheneverwouldcommitanotherrobberyaslongashelived.

Therewasonemanwhowasallowed,asanindulgence,tokeeprabbits.Hisroomhavingratheraclosesmellinconsequence,theycalledtohimatthedoortocom

eoutintothepassage.Hecompliedofcourse,andstoodshadinghishaggardfaceintheunwontedsunlightofthegreatwindow,lookingaswanandunearthlyasifhehadbeensummonedfromthegrave.Hehadawhiterabbitinhisbreast;andwhenthelittlecreature,gettingdownupontheground,stolebackintothecell,andhe,beingdismissed,crepttimidlyafterit,Ithoughtitwouldhavebeenveryhardtosayinwhatrespectthemanwasthenobleranimalofthetwo.

TherewasanEnglishthief,whohadbeentherebutafewdaysoutofsevenyears:avillainous,low-browed,thin-lippedfellow,withawhiteface;whohadasyetnorelishforvisitors,andwho,butfortheadditionalpenalty,wouldhavegl



adlystabbedmewithhisshoemakersknife.TherewasanotherGermanwhohadenteredthejailbutyesterday,andwhostartedfromhisbedwhenwelookedin,andpleaded,inhisbrokenEnglish,veryhardforwork.Therewasapoet,whoafterdoingtwodaysworkineveryfour-and-twentyhours,oneforhimselfandonefortheprison,wroteversesaboutships(hewasbytradeamariner),andthemaddeningwine-cup,andhisfriendsathome.Therewereverymanyofthem.Somereddenedatthesightofvisitors,andsometurnedverypale.Sometwoorthreehadprisonernurseswiththem,fortheywereverysick;andone,afatoldnegrowhoseleghadbeentakenoffwithinthejail,hadforhisattendantaclassicalscholarandanaccomplishedsurgeon,himselfaprisonerlikewise.Sittinguponthestairs,engagedinsomeslightwork,wasaprettycolouredboy.IstherenorefugeforyoungcriminalsinPhiladelphia,then?saidI.Yes,butonlyforwhitechildren.Noblearistocracyincrime

Therewasasailorwhohadbeenthereupwardsofelevenyears,andwhoinafewmonthstimewouldbefree.Elevenyearsofsolitaryconfinement!

Iamverygladtohearyourtimeisnearlyout.Whatdoeshesay?Nothing.Whydoeshestareathishands,andpickthefleshuponhisfingers,andraisehiseyesforaninstant,everynowandthen,tothosebarewallswhichhaveseenhisheadturngrey?Itisawayhehassometimes.

Doesheneverlookmenintheface,anddoeshealwayspluckatthosehandsofhis,asthoughhewerebentonpartingskinandbone?Itishishumour:nothingm

ore.

Itishishumourtoo,tosaythathedoesnotlookforwardtogoingout;thatheisnotgladthetimeisdrawingnear;thathedidlookforwardtoitonce,butthatwasverylongago;thathehaslostallcareforeverything.Itishishumourtobeahelpless,crushed,andbrokenman.And,Heavenbehiswitnessthathehashishumourthoroughlygratified!

Therewerethreeyoungwomeninadjoiningcells,allconvictedatthesametimeofaconspiracytorobtheirprosecutor.Inthesilenceandsolitudeoftheirlivestheyhadgrowntobequitebeautiful.Theirlookswereverysad,andmighthavemovedthesternestvisitortotears,butnottothatkindofsorrowwhichthecontemplationofthemenawakens.Onewasayounggirl;nottwenty,asIrecol

lect;whosesnow-whiteroomwashungwiththeworkofsomeformerprisoner,anduponwhosedowncastfacethesuninallitssplendourshonedownthroughthehighchinkinthewall,whereonenarrowstripofbrightblueskywasvisible.Shewasverypenitentandquiet;hadcometoberesigned,shesaid(andIbelieveher);andhadamindatpeace.Inaword,youarehappyhere?saidoneofmycompanions.Shestruggledshedidstruggleveryhardtoanswer,Yes;butraisinghereyes,andmeetingthatglimpseoffreedomoverhead,sheburstintotears,andsaid,Shetriedtobe;sheutterednocomplaint;butitwasnaturalthatsheshouldsometimeslongtogooutofthatonecell:shecouldnothelpTHAT,shesobbed,poorthing!

Iwentfromcelltocellthatday;andeveryfaceIsaw,orwordIheard,orincidentInoted,ispresenttomymindinallitspainfulness.Butletmepassthe

mby,forone,morepleasant,glanceofaprisononthesameplanwhichIafterwardssawatPittsburg.

WhenIhadgoneoverthat,inthesamemanner,Iaskedthegovernorifhehadanypersoninhischargewhowasshortlygoingout.Hehadone,hesaid,whosetimewasupnextday;buthehadonlybeenaprisonertwoyears.

Twoyears!Ilookedbackthroughtwoyearsofmyownlifeoutofjail,prosperous,happy,surroundedbyblessings,comforts,goodfortuneandthoughthowwideagapitwas,andhowlongthosetwoyearspassedinsolitarycaptivitywouldhav



ebeen.Ihavethefaceofthisman,whowasgoingtobereleasednextday,beforemenow.Itisalmostmorememorableinitshappinessthantheotherfacesintheirmisery.Howeasyandhownaturalitwasforhimtosaythatthesystemwasagoodone;andthatthetimewentprettyquickconsidering;andthatwhenamanoncefeltthathehadoffendedthelaw,andmustsatisfyit,hegotalong,somehow:andsoforth!

Whatdidhecallyoubacktosaytoyou,inthatstrangeflutter?Iaskedofmyconductor,whenhehadlockedthedoorandjoinedmeinthepassage.

Oh!Thathewasafraidthesolesofhisbootswerenotfitforwalking,astheywereagooddealwornwhenhecamein;andthathewouldthankmeverymuchtohavethemmended,ready.

Thosebootshadbeentakenoffhisfeet,andputawaywiththerestofhisclothes,twoyearsbefore!

Itookthatopportunityofinquiringhowtheyconductedthemselvesimmediatelybeforegoingout;addingthatIpresumedtheytrembledverymuch.

Well,itsnotsomuchatrembling,wastheanswerthoughtheydoquiverasacoederangementofthenervoussystem.Theycantsigntheirnamestothebook;sometimescantevenholdthepen;lookaboutemwithoutappearingtoknowwhy,orwheretheyare;andsometimesgetupandsitdownagain,twentytimesinaminute.T

hisiswhentheyreintheoffice,wheretheyaretakenwiththehoodon,astheywerebroughtin.Whentheygetoutsidethegate,theystop,andlookfirstonewayandthentheother;notknowingwhichtotake.Sometimestheystaggerasiftheyweredrunk,andsometimesareforcedtoleanagainstthefence,theyresobad:buttheyclearoffincourseoftime.

AsIwalkedamongthesesolitarycells,andlookedatthefacesofthemenwithinthem,Itriedtopicturetomyselfthethoughtsandfeelingsnaturaltotheircondition.Iimaginedthehoodjusttakenoff,andthesceneoftheircaptivitydisclosedtotheminallitsdismalmonotony.

Atfirst,themanisstunned.Hisconfinementisahideousvision;andhisoldlifeareality.Hethrowshimselfuponhisbed,andliesthereabandonedtodespa

ir.Bydegreestheinsupportablesolitudeandbarrennessoftheplacerouseshimfromthisstupor,andwhenthetrapinhisgrateddoorisopened,hehumblybegsandpraysforwork.Givemesomeworktodo,orIshallgoravingmad!

Hehasit;andbyfitsandstartsapplieshimselftolabour;buteverynowandthentherecomesuponhimaburningsenseoftheyearsthatmustbewastedinthatstonecoffin,andanagonysopiercingintherecollectionofthosewhoarehiddenfromhisviewandknowledge,thathestartsfromhisseat,andstridingupanddownthenarrowroomwithbothhandsclaspedonhisupliftedhead,hearsspiritstemptinghimtobeathisbrainsoutonthewall.

Againhefallsuponhisbed,andliesthere,moaning.Suddenlyhestartsup,wonderingwhetheranyothermanisnear;whetherthereisanothercelllikethaton

eithersideofhim:andlistenskeenly.

Thereisnosound,butotherprisonersmaybenearforallthat.Herememberstohaveheardonce,whenhelittlethoughtofcomingherehimself,thatthecellsweresoconstructedthattheprisonerscouldnotheareachother,thoughtheofficerscouldhearthem.

Whereisthenearestmanupontheright,orontheleft?oristhereoneinbothdirections?Whereishesittingnowwithhisfacetothelight?orishewalkingtoandfro?Howishedressed?Hashebeenherelong?Ishemuchwornaway?Is



heverywhiteandspectre-like?DoesHEthinkofhisneighbourtoo?

Scarcelyventuringtobreathe,andlisteningwhilehethinks,heconjuresupafigurewithhisbacktowardshim,andimaginesitmovingaboutinthisnextcell.Hehasnoideaoftheface,butheiscertainofthedarkformofastoopingman.Inthecellupontheotherside,heputsanotherfigure,whosefaceishiddenfromhimalso.Dayafterday,andoftenwhenhewakesupinthemiddleofthenight,hethinksofthesetwomenuntilheisalmostdistracted.Heneverchangesthem.Theretheyarealwaysashefirstimaginedthemanoldmanontheright;ayoungermanupontheleftwhosehiddenfeaturestorturehimtodeath,andhaveamysterythatmakeshimtremble.

Thewearydayspassonwithsolemnpace,likemournersatafuneral;andslowlyhebeginstofeelthatthewhitewallsofthecellhavesomethingdreadfulinthem:thattheircolourishorrible:thattheirsmoothsurfacechillshisblood:thatthereisonehatefulcornerwhichtormentshim.Everymorningwhenhewakes,hehideshisheadbeneaththecoverlet,andshudderstoseetheghastlyceilinglookingdownuponhim.Theblessedlightofdayitselfpeepsin,anuglyphantomface,throughtheunchangeablecrevicewhichishisprisonwindow.

Byslowbutsuredegrees,theterrorsofthathatefulcornerswelluntiltheybesethimatalltimes;invadehisrest,makehisdreamshideous,andhisnightsdreadful.Atfirst,hetookastrangedisliketoit;feelingasthoughitgavebirthinhisbraintosomethingofcorrespondingshape,whichoughtnottobether

e,andrackedhisheadwithpains.Thenhebegantofearit,thentodreamofit,andofmenwhisperingitsnameandpointingtoit.Thenhecouldnotbeartolookatit,noryettoturnhisbackuponit.Now,itiseverynightthelurking-placeofaghost:ashadow:asilentsomething,horribletosee,butwhetherbird,orbeast,ormuffledhumanshape,hecannottell.

Whenheisinhiscellbyday,hefearsthelittleyardwithout.Whenheisintheyard,hedreadstore-enterthecell.Whennightcomes,therestandsthephantominthecorner.Ifhehavethecouragetostandinitsplace,anddriveitout(hehadonce:beingdesperate),itbroodsuponhisbed.Inthetwilight,andalwaysatthesamehour,avoicecallstohimbyname;asthedarknessthickens,hisLoombeginstolive;andeventhat,hiscomfort,isahideousfigure,watchinghimtilldaybreak.

Again,byslowdegrees,thesehorriblefanciesdepartfromhimonebyone:returningsometimes,unexpectedly,butatlongerintervals,andinlessalarmingshapes.Hehastalkeduponreligiousmatterswiththegentlemanwhovisitshim,andhasreadhisBible,andhaswrittenaprayeruponhisslate,andhungitupasakindofprotection,andanassuranceofHeavenlycompanionship.Hedreamsnow,sometimes,ofhischildrenorhiswife,butissurethattheyaredead,orhavedesertedhim.Heiseasilymovedtotears;isgentle,submissive,andbroken-spirited.Occasionally,theoldagonycomesback:averylittlethingwillreviveit;evenafamiliarsound,orthescentofsummerflowersintheair;butitdoesnotlastlong,now:fortheworldwithout,hascometobethevision,andthissolitarylife,thesadreality.

IfhistermofimprisonmentbeshortImeancomparatively,forshortitcannotbethelasthalfyearisalmostworsethanall;forthenhethinkstheprisonwilltakefireandhebeburntintheruins,orthatheisdoomedtodiewithinthewalls,orthathewillbedetainedonsomefalsechargeandsentencedforanotherterm:orthatsomething,nomatterwhat,musthappentopreventhisgoingatlarge.Andthisisnatural,andimpossibletobereasonedagainst,because,afterhislongseparationfromhumanlife,andhisgreatsuffering,anyeventwillappeartohimmoreprobableinthecontemplation,thanthebeingrestoredtolibertyandhisfellow-creatures.



Ifhisperiodofconfinementhavebeenverylong,theprospectofreleasebewildersandconfuseshim.Hisbrokenheartmayflutterforamoment,whenhethinksoftheworldoutside,andwhatitmighthavebeentohiminallthoselonelyyears,butthatisall.Thecell-doorhasbeenclosedtoolongonallitshopesandcares.Bettertohavehangedhiminthebeginningthanbringhimtothispass,andsendhimforthtominglewithhiskind,whoarehiskindnomore.

Onthehaggardfaceofeverymanamongtheseprisoners,thesameexpressionsat.Iknownotwhattolikenitto.Ithadsomethingofthatstrainedattentionwhichweseeuponthefacesoftheblindanddeaf,mingledwithakindofhorror,asthoughtheyhadallbeensecretlyterrified.IneverylittlechamberthatIentered,andateverygratethroughwhichIlooked,Iseemedtoseethesameappallingcountenance.Itlivesinmymemory,withthefascinationofaremarkablepicture.Paradebeforemyeyes,ahundredmen,withoneamongthemnewlyreleasedfromthissolitarysuffering,andIwouldpointhimout.

Thefacesofthewomen,asIhavesaid,ithumanisesandrefines.Whetherthisbebecauseoftheirbetternature,whichiselicitedinsolitude,orbecauseoftheirbeinggentlercreatures,ofgreaterpatienceandlongersuffering,Idonotknow;butsoitis.Thatthepunishmentisnevertheless,tomythinking,fullyascruelandaswrongintheircase,asinthatofthemen,Ineedscarcelyadd.

Myfirmconvictionisthat,independentofthementalanguishitoccasionsananguishsoacuteandsotremendous,thatallimaginationofitmustfallfarshort

oftherealityitwearsthemindintoamorbidstate,whichrendersitunfitfortheroughcontactandbusyactionoftheworld.Itismyfixedopinionthatthosewhohaveundergonethispunishment,MUSTpassintosocietyagainmorallyunhealthyanddiseased.Therearemanyinstancesonrecord,ofmenwhohavechosen,orhavebeencondemned,tolivesofperfectsolitude,butIscarcelyrememberone,evenamongsagesofstrongandvigorousintellect,whereitseffecthasnotbecomeapparent,insomedisorderedtrainofthought,orsomegloomyhallucination.Whatmonstrousphantoms,bredofdespondencyanddoubt,andbornandrearedinsolitude,havestalkedupontheearth,makingcreationugly,anddarkeningthefaceofHeaven!

Suicidesarerareamongtheseprisoners:arealmost,indeed,unknown.Butnoargumentinfavourofthesystem,canreasonablybededucedfromthiscircumstance,

althoughitisveryoftenurged.Allmenwhohavemadediseasesofthemindtheirstudy,knowperfectlywellthatsuchextremedepressionanddespairaswillchangethewholecharacter,andbeatdownallitspowersofelasticityandself-resistance,maybeatworkwithinaman,andyetstopshortofself-destruction.Thisisacommoncase.

Thatitmakesthesensesdull,andbydegreesimpairsthebodilyfaculties,Iamquitesure.IremarkedtothosewhowerewithmeinthisveryestablishmentatPhiladelphia,thatthecriminalswhohadbeentherelong,weredeaf.They,whowereinthehabitofseeingthesemenconstantly,wereperfectlyamazedattheidea,whichtheyregardedasgroundlessandfanciful.Andyettheveryfirstprisonertowhomtheyappealedoneoftheirownselectionconfirmedmyimpression(whichwasunknowntohim)instantly,andsaid,withagenuineairitwasimpossibl

etodoubt,thathecouldntthinkhowithappened,butheWASgrowingverydullofhearing.

Thatitisasingularlyunequalpunishment,andaffectstheworstmanleast,thereisnodoubt.Initssuperiorefficiencyasameansofreformation,comparedwiththatothercodeofregulationswhichallowstheprisonerstoworkincompanywithoutcommunicatingtogether,Ihavenotthesmallestfaith.Alltheinstancesofreformationthatwerementionedtome,wereofakindthatmighthavebeenandIhavenodoubtwhatever,inmyownmind,wouldhavebeenequallywellbroughtaboutbytheSilentSystem.Withregardtosuchmenasthenegroburglarand



theEnglishthief,eventhemostenthusiastichavescarcelyanyhopeoftheirconversion.

Itseemstomethattheobjectionthatnothingwholesomeorgoodhaseverhaditsgrowthinsuchunnaturalsolitude,andthatevenadogoranyofthemoreintelligentamongbeasts,wouldpine,andmope,andrustaway,beneathitsinfluence,wouldbeinitselfasufficientargumentagainstthissystem.Butwhenwerecollect,inaddition,howverycruelandsevereitis,andthatasolitarylifeisalwaysliabletopeculiaranddistinctobjectionsofamostdeplorablenature,whichhavearisenhere,andcalltomind,moreover,thatthechoiceisnotbetweenthissystem,andabadorill-consideredone,butbetweenitandanotherwhichhasworkedwell,andis,initswholedesignandpractice,excellent;thereissurelymorethansufficientreasonforabandoningamodeofpunishmentattendedbysolittlehopeorpromise,andfraught,beyonddispute,withsuchahostofevils.

Asarelieftoitscontemplation,Iwillclosethischapterwithacuriousstoryarisingoutofthesametheme,whichwasrelatedtome,ontheoccasionofthisvisit,bysomeofthegentlemenconcerned.

Atoneoftheperiodicalmeetingsoftheinspectorsofthisprison,aworkingmanofPhiladelphiapresentedhimselfbeforetheBoard,andearnestlyrequestedtobeplacedinsolitaryconfinement.Onbeingaskedwhatmotivecouldpossiblyprompthimtomakethisstrangedemand,heansweredthathehadanirresistiblepr

opensitytogetdrunk;thathewasconstantlyindulgingit,tohisgreatmiseryandruin;thathehadnopowerofresistance;thathewishedtobeputbeyondthereachoftemptation;andthathecouldthinkofnobetterwaythanthis.Itwaspointedouttohim,inreply,thattheprisonwasforcriminalswhohadbeentriedandsentencedbythelaw,andcouldnotbemadeavailableforanysuchfancifulpurposes;hewasexhortedtoabstainfromintoxicatingdrinks,ashesurelymightifhewould;andreceivedotherverygoodadvice,withwhichheretired,exceedinglydissatisfiedwiththeresultofhisapplication.

Hecameagain,andagain,andagain,andwassoveryearnestandimportunate,thatatlasttheytookcounseltogether,andsaid,Hewillcertainlyqualifyhimselfforadmission,ifwerejecthimanymore.Letusshuthimup.Hewillsoonbegladtogoaway,andthenweshallgetridofhim.Sotheymadehimsignastatem

entwhichwouldpreventhiseversustaininganactionforfalseimprisonment,totheeffectthathisincarcerationwasvoluntary,andofhisownseeking;theyrequestedhimtotakenoticethattheofficerinattendancehadorderstoreleasehimatanyhourofthedayornight,whenhemightknockuponhisdoorforthatpurpose;butdesiredhimtounderstand,thatoncegoingout,hewouldnotbeadmittedanymore.Theseconditionsagreedupon,andhestillremaininginthesamemind,hewasconductedtotheprison,andshutupinoneofthecells.

Inthiscell,theman,whohadnotthefirmnesstoleaveaglassofliquorstandinguntastedonatablebeforehiminthiscell,insolitaryconfinement,andworkingeverydayathistradeofshoemaking,thismanremainednearlytwoyears.Hishealthbeginningtofailattheexpirationofthattime,thesurgeonrecommendedthatheshouldworkoccasionallyinthegarden;andashelikedthenotion

verymuch,hewentaboutthisnewoccupationwithgreatcheerfulness.

Hewasdigginghere,onesummerday,veryindustriously,whenthewicketintheoutergatechancedtobeleftopen:showing,beyond,thewell-remembereddustyroadandsunburntfields.Thewaywasasfreetohimastoanymanliving,buthenosoonerraisedhisheadandcaughtsightofit,allshininginthelight,than,withtheinvoluntaryinstinctofaprisoner,hecastawayhisspade,scamperedoffasfastashislegswouldcarryhim,andneveroncelookedback.



ChapterVIIIWashington.TheLegislature.AndthePresidentsHouse

WEleftPhiladelphiabysteamboat,atsixoclockoneverycoldmorning,andturnedourfacestowardsWashington.

Inthecourseofthisdaysjourney,asonsubsequentoccasions,weencounteredsomeEnglishmen(smallfarmers,perhaps,orcountrypublicansathome)whoweresettledinAmerica,andweretravellingontheirownaffairs.OfallgradesandkindsofmenthatjostleoneinthepublicconveyancesoftheStates,theseareoftenthemostintolerableandthemostinsufferablecompanions.UnitedtoeverydisagreeablecharacteristicthattheworstkindofAmericantravellerspossess,thesecountrymenofoursdisplayanamountofinsolentconceitandcoolassumptionofsuperiority,quitemonstroustobehold.Inthecoarsefamiliarityoftheirapproach,andtheeffronteryoftheirinquisitiveness(whichtheyareingreathastetoassert,asiftheypantedtorevengethemselvesuponthedecentoldrestraintsofhome),theysurpassanynativespecimensthatcamewithinmyrangeofobservation:andIoftengrewsopatrioticwhenIsawandheardthem,thatIwouldcheerfullyhavesubmittedtoareasonablefine,ifIcouldhavegivenanyothercountryinthewholeworld,thehonourofclaimingthemforitschildren.

AsWashingtonmaybecalledthehead-quartersoftobacco-tincturedsaliva,thetimeiscomewhenImustconfess,withoutanydisguise,thattheprevalenceofthosetwoodiouspracticesofchewingandexpectoratingbeganaboutthistimetobeanythingbutagreeable,andsoonbecamemostoffensiveandsickening.Inallt

hepublicplacesofAmerica,thisfilthycustomisrecognised.Inthecourtsoflaw,thejudgehashisspittoon,thecrierhis,thewitnesshis,andtheprisonerhis;whilethejurymenandspectatorsareprovidedfor,assomanymenwhointhecourseofnaturemustdesiretospitincessantly.Inthehospitals,thestudentsofmedicinearerequested,bynoticesuponthewall,toejecttheirtobaccojuiceintotheboxesprovidedforthatpurpose,andnottodiscolourthestairs.Inpublicbuildings,visitorsareimplored,throughthesameagency,tosquirttheessenceoftheirquids,orplugs,asIhaveheardthemcalledbygentlemenlearnedinthiskindofsweetmeat,intothenationalspittoons,andnotaboutthebasesofthemarblecolumns.Butinsomeparts,thiscustomisinseparablymixedupwitheverymealandmorningcall,andwithallthetransactionsofsociallife.Thestranger,whofollowsinthetrackItookmyself,willfinditinitsfullbloomandglory,luxuriantinallitsalarmingrecklessness,atWashington.A

ndlethimnotpersuadehimself(asIoncedid,tomyshame)thatprevioustouristshaveexaggerateditsextent.Thethingitselfisanexaggerationofnastiness,whichcannotbeoutdone.

Onboardthissteamboat,thereweretwoyounggentlemen,withshirt-collarsreversedasusual,andarmedwithverybigwalking-sticks;whoplantedtwoseatsinthemiddleofthedeck,atadistanceofsomefourpacesapart;tookouttheirtobacco-boxes;andsatdownoppositeeachother,tochew.Inlessthanaquarterofanhourstime,thesehopefulyouthshadshedaboutthemonthecleanboards,acopiousshowerofyellowrain;clearing,bythatmeans,akindofmagiccircle,withinwhoselimitsnointrudersdaredtocome,andwhichtheyneverfailedtorefreshandre-refreshbeforeaspotwasdry.Thisbeingbeforebreakfast,ratherdisposedme,Iconfess,tonausea;butlookingattentivelyatoneoftheexpec

torators,Iplainlysawthathewasyounginchewing,andfeltinwardlyuneasy,himself.Aglowofdelightcameovermeatthisdiscovery;andasImarkedhisfaceturnpalerandpaler,andsawtheballoftobaccoinhisleftcheek,quiverwithhissuppressedagony,whileyethespat,andchewed,andspatagain,inemulationofhisolderfriend,Icouldhavefallenonhisneckandimploredhimtogoonforhours.

Weallsatdowntoacomfortablebreakfastinthecabinbelow,wheretherewasnomorehurryorconfusionthanatsuchamealinEngland,andwheretherewascertainlygreaterpolitenessexhibitedthanatmostofourstage-coachbanquets.A



taboutnineoclockwearrivedattherailroadstation,andwentonbythecars.Atnoonweturnedoutagain,tocrossawideriverinanothersteamboat;landedatacontinuationoftherailroadontheoppositeshore;andwentonbyothercars;inwhich,inthecourseofthenexthourorso,wecrossedbywoodenbridges,eachamileinlength,twocreeks,calledrespectivelyGreatandLittleGunpowder.Thewaterinbothwasblackenedwithflightsofcanvas-backedducks,whicharemostdeliciouseating,andaboundhereaboutsatthatseasonoftheyear.

Thesebridgesareofwood,havenoparapet,andareonlyjustwideenoughforthepassageofthetrains;which,intheeventofthesmallestaccident,woundinevitablybeplungedintotheriver.Theyarestartlingcontrivances,andaremostagreeablewhenpassed.

WestoppedtodineatBaltimore,andbeingnowinMaryland,werewaitedon,forthefirsttime,byslaves.Thesensationofexactinganyservicefromhumancreatureswhoareboughtandsold,andbeing,forthetime,apartyasitweretotheircondition,isnotanenviableone.Theinstitutionexists,perhaps,initsleastrepulsiveandmostmitigatedforminsuchatownasthis;butitISslavery;andthoughIwas,withrespecttoit,aninnocentman,itspresencefilledmewithasenseofshameandself-reproach.

Afterdinner,wewentdowntotherailroadagain,andtookourseatsinthecarsforWashington.Beingratherearly,thosemenandboyswhohappenedtohavenothingparticulartodo,andwerecuriousinforeigners,came(accordingtocustom

)roundthecarriageinwhichIsat;letdownallthewindows;thrustintheirheadsandshoulders;hookedthemselvesonconveniently,bytheirelbows;andfelltocomparingnotesonthesubjectofmypersonalappearance,withasmuchindifferenceasifIwereastuffedfigure.Inevergainedsomuchuncompromisinginformationwithreferencetomyownnoseandeyes,andvariousimpressionswroughtbymymouthandchinondifferentminds,andhowmyheadlookswhenitisviewedfrombehind,asontheseoccasions.Somegentlemenwereonlysatisfiedbyexercisingtheirsenseoftouch;andtheboys(whoaresurprisinglyprecociousinAmerica)wereseldomsatisfied,evenbythat,butwouldreturntothechargeoverandoveragain.Manyabuddingpresidenthaswalkedintomyroomwithhiscaponhisheadandhishandsinhispockets,andstaredatmefortwowholehours:occasionallyrefreshinghimselfwithatweakofhisnose,oradraughtfromthewater-jug;orbywalkingtothewindowsandinvitingotherboysinthestreetbelo

w,tocomeupanddolikewise:crying,Hereheis!Comeon!Bringallyourbrotherithotherhospitableentreatiesofthatnature.

WereachedWashingtonatabouthalf-pastsixthatevening,andhaduponthewayabeautifulviewoftheCapitol,whichisafinebuildingoftheCorinthianorder,placeduponanobleandcommandingeminence.Arrivedatthehotel;Isawnomoreoftheplacethatnight;beingverytired,andgladtogettobed.

Breakfastovernextmorning,Iwalkaboutthestreetsforanhourortwo,and,cominghome,throwupthewindowinthefrontandback,andlookout.HereisWashington,freshinmymindandundermyeye.

TaketheworstpartsoftheCityRoadandPentonville,orthestragglingoutskir

tsofParis,wherethehousesaresmallest,preservingalltheiroddities,butespeciallythesmallshopsanddwellings,occupiedinPentonville(butnotinWashington)byfurniture-brokers,keepersofpooreating-houses,andfanciersofbirds.Burnthewholedown;builditupagaininwoodandplaster;widenitalittle;throwinpartofSt.JohnsWood;putgreenblindsoutsidealltheprivatehouses,witharedcurtainandawhiteoneineverywindow;ploughupalltheroads;plantagreatdealofcoarseturfineveryplacewhereitoughtNOTtobe;erectthreehandsomebuildingsinstoneandmarble,anywhere,butthemoreentirelyoutofeverybodyswaythebetter;callonethePostOffice;onethePatentOffice,andonetheTreasury;makeitscorchinghotinthemorning,andfreezingcold



intheafternoon,withanoccasionaltornadoofwindanddust;leaveabrick-fieldwithoutthebricks,inallcentralplaceswhereastreetmaynaturallybeexpected:andthatsWashington.

Thehotelinwhichwelive,isalongrowofsmallhousesfrontingonthestreet,andopeningatthebackuponacommonyard,inwhichhangsagreattriangle.Wheneveraservantiswanted,somebodybeatsonthistrianglefromonestrokeuptoseven,accordingtothenumberofthehouseinwhichhispresenceisrequired;andasalltheservantsarealwaysbeingwanted,andnoneofthemevercome,thisenliveningengineisinfullperformancethewholedaythrough.Clothesaredryinginthesameyard;femaleslaves,withcottonhandkerchiefstwistedroundtheirheadsarerunningtoandfroonthehotelbusiness;blackwaiterscrossandrecrosswithdishesintheirhands;twogreatdogsareplayinguponamoundofloosebricksinthecentreofthelittlesquare;apigisturninguphisstomachtothesun,andgruntingthatscomfortable!;andneitherthemen,northewomen,northedogs,northepig,noranycreatedcreature,takesthesmallestnoticeofthetriangle,whichistinglingmadlyallthetime.

Iwalktothefrontwindow,andlookacrosstheroaduponalong,stragglingrowofhouses,onestoryhigh,terminating,nearlyopposite,butalittletotheleft,inamelancholypieceofwastegroundwithfrowzygrass,whichlookslikeasmallpieceofcountrythathastakentodrinking,andhasquitelostitself.Standinganyhowandallwrong,uponthisopenspace,likesomethingmeteoricthathasfallendownfromthemoon,isanodd,lop-sided,one-eyedkindofwoodenbui

lding,thatlookslikeachurch,withaflag-staffaslongasitselfstickingoutofasteeplesomethinglargerthanatea-chest.Underthewindowisasmallstandofcoaches,whoseslave-driversaresunningthemselvesonthestepsofourdoor,andtalkingidlytogether.Thethreemostobtrusivehousesnearathandarethethreemeanest.Ononeashop,whichneverhasanythinginthewindow,andneverhasthedooropenispaintedinlargecharacters,THECITYLUNCH.Atanother,whichlookslikeabackwaytosomewhereelse,butisanindependentbuildinginitself,oystersareprocurableineverystyle.Atthethird,whichisavery,verylittletailorsshop,pantsarefixedtoorder;orinotherwords,pantaloonsaremadetomeasure.AndthatisourstreetinWashington.

ItissometimescalledtheCityofMagnificentDistances,butitmightwithgreaterproprietybetermedtheCityofMagnificentIntentions;foritisonlyonta

kingabirds-eyeviewofitfromthetopoftheCapitol,thatonecanatallcomprehendthevastdesignsofitsprojector,anaspiringFrenchman.Spaciousavenues,thatbegininnothing,andleadnowhere;streets,mile-long,thatonlywanthouses,roadsandinhabitants;publicbuildingsthatneedbutapublictobecomplete;andornamentsofgreatthoroughfares,whichonlylackgreatthoroughfarestoornamentareitsleadingfeatures.Onemightfancytheseasonover,andmostofthehousesgoneoutoftownforeverwiththeirmasters.TotheadmirersofcitiesitisaBarmecideFeast:apleasantfieldfortheimaginationtorovein;amonumentraisedtoadeceasedproject,withnotevenalegibleinscriptiontorecorditsdepartedgreatness.

Suchasitis,itislikelytoremain.ItwasoriginallychosenfortheseatofGovernment,asameansofavertingtheconflictingjealousiesandinterestsoft

hedifferentStates;andveryprobably,too,asbeingremotefrommobs:aconsiderationnottobeslighted,eveninAmerica.Ithasnotradeorcommerceofitsown:havinglittleornopopulationbeyondthePresidentandhisestablishment;themembersofthelegislaturewhoresidethereduringthesession;theGovernmentclerksandofficersemployedinthevariousdepartments;thekeepersofthehotelsandboarding-houses;andthetradesmenwhosupplytheirtables.Itisveryunhealthy.FewpeoplewouldliveinWashington,Itakeit,whowerenotobligedtoresidethere;andthetidesofemigrationandspeculation,thoserapidandregardlesscurrents,arelittlelikelytoflowatanytimetowardssuchdullandsluggishwater.



TheprincipalfeaturesoftheCapitol,are,ofcourse,thetwohousesofAssembly.Butthereis,besides,inthecentreofthebuilding,afinerotunda,ninety-sixfeetindiameter,andninety-sixhigh,whosecircularwallisdividedintocompartments,ornamentedbyhistoricalpictures.Fourofthesehavefortheirsubjectsprominenteventsintherevolutionarystruggle.TheywerepaintedbyColonelTrumbull,himselfamemberofWashingtonsstaffatthetimeoftheiroccurrence;fromwhichcircumstancetheyderiveapeculiarinterestoftheirown.InthissamehallMr.GreenoughslargestatueofWashingtonhasbeenlatelyplaced.Ithasgreatmeritsofcourse,butitstruckmeasbeingratherstrainedandviolentforitssubject.Icouldwish,however,tohaveseenitinabetterlightthanitcaneverbeviewedin,whereitstands.

ThereisaverypleasantandcommodiouslibraryintheCapitol;andfromabalconyinfront,thebirds-eyeview,ofwhichIhavejustspoken,maybehad,togetherwithabeautifulprospectoftheadjacentcountry.Inoneoftheornamentedportionsofthebuilding,thereisafigureofJustice;whereuntotheGuideBooksays,theartistatfirstcontemplatedgivingmoreofnudity,buthewaswarnedthatthepublicsentimentinthiscountrywouldnotadmitofit,andinhiscautionhehasgone,perhaps,intotheoppositeextreme.PoorJustice!shehasbeenmadetowearmuchstrangergarmentsinAmericathanthoseshepinesin,intheCapitol.Letushopethatshehaschangedherdress-makersincetheywerefashioned,andthatthepublicsentimentofthecountrydidnotcutouttheclothesshehidesherlovelyfigurein,justnow.

TheHouseofRepresentativesisabeautifulandspacioushall,ofsemicircularshape,supportedbyhandsomepillars.Onepartofthegalleryisappropriatedtotheladies,andtheretheysitinfrontrows,andcomein,andgoout,asataplayorconcert.Thechairiscanopied,andraisedconsiderablyabovetheflooroftheHouse;andeverymemberhasaneasychairandawritingdesktohimself:whichisdenouncedbysomepeopleoutofdoorsasamostunfortunateandinjudiciousarrangement,tendingtolongsittingsandprosaicspeeches.Itisanelegantchambertolookat,butasingularlybadoneforallpurposesofhearing.TheSenate,whichissmaller,isfreefromthisobjection,andisexceedinglywelladaptedtotheusesforwhichitisdesigned.Thesittings,Ineedhardlyadd,takeplaceintheday;andtheparliamentaryformsaremodelledonthoseoftheoldcountry.

Iwassometimesasked,inmyprogressthroughotherplaces,whetherIhadnotbeenverymuchimpressedbytheHEADSofthelawmakersatWashington;meaningnottheirchiefsandleaders,butliterallytheirindividualandpersonalheads,whereontheirhairgrew,andwherebythephrenologicalcharacterofeachlegislatorwasexpressed:andIalmostasoftenstruckmyquestionerdumbwithindignantconsternationbyansweringNo,thatIdidntrememberbeingatallovercome.AsImust,atwhateverhazard,repeattheavowalhere,Iwillfollowitupbyrelatingmyimpressionsonthissubjectinasfewwordsaspossible.

InthefirstplaceitmaybefromsomeimperfectdevelopmentofmyorganofvenerationIdonotrememberhavingeverfaintedaway,orhavingevenbeenmovedtotearsofjoyfulpride,atsightofanylegislativebody.IhavebornetheHouse

ofCommonslikeaman,andhaveyieldedtonoweakness,butslumber,intheHouseofLords.Ihaveseenelectionsforboroughandcounty,andhaveneverbeenimpelled(nomatterwhichpartywon)todamagemyhatbythrowingitupintotheairintriumph,ortocrackmyvoicebyshoutingforthanyreferencetoourGloriousConstitution,tothenoblepurityofourindependentvoters,or,theunimpeachableintegrityofourindependentmembers.Havingwithstoodsuchstrongattacksuponmyfortitude,itispossiblethatImaybeofacoldandinsensibletemperament,amountingtoiciness,insuchmatters;andthereforemyimpressionsofthelivepillarsoftheCapitolatWashingtonmustbereceivedwithsuchgrainsofallowanceasthisfreeconfessionmayseemtodemand.



DidIseeinthispublicbodyanassemblageofmen,boundtogetherinthesacrednamesofLibertyandFreedom,andsoassertingthechastedignityofthosetwingoddesses,inalltheirdiscussions,astoexaltatoncetheEternalPrinciplestowhichtheirnamesaregiven,andtheirowncharacterandthecharacteroftheircountrymen,intheadmiringeyesofthewholeworld?

Itwasbutaweek,sinceanaged,grey-hairedman,alastinghonourtothelandthatgavehimbirth,whohasdonegoodservicetohiscountry,ashisforefathersdid,andwhowillberememberedscoresuponscoresofyearsafterthewormsbredinitscorruption,arebutsomanygrainsofdustitwasbutaweek,sincethisoldmanhadstoodfordaysuponhistrialbeforethisverybody,chargedwithhavingdaredtoasserttheinfamyofthattraffic,whichhasforitsaccursedmerchandisemenandwomen,andtheirunbornchildren.Yes.Andpubliclyexhibitedinthesamecityallthewhile;gilded,framedandglazedhungupforgeneraladmiration;showntostrangersnotwithshame,butpride;itsfacenotturnedtowardsthewall,itselfnottakendownandburned;istheUnanimousDeclarationoftheThirteenUnitedStatesofAmerica,whichsolemnlydeclaresthatAllMenarecreatedEqual;andareendowedbytheirCreatorwiththeInalienableRightsofLife,Liberty,andthePursuitofHappiness!

Itwasnotamonth,sincethissamebodyhadsatcalmlyby,andheardaman,oneofthemselves,withoathswhichbeggarsintheirdrinkreject,threatentocutanothersthroatfromeartoear.Therehesat,amongthem;notcrushedbythegen

eralfeelingoftheassembly,butasgoodamanasany.

Therewasbutaweektocome,andanotherofthatbody,fordoinghisdutytothosewhosenthimthere;forclaiminginaRepublictheLibertyandFreedomofexpressingtheirsentiments,andmakingknowntheirprayer;wouldbetried,foundguilty,andhavestrongcensurepasseduponhimbytherest.Hiswasagraveoffenceindeed;foryearsbefore,hehadrisenupandsaid,Agangofmaleandfemaleslavesforsale,warrantedtobreedlikecattle,linkedtoeachotherbyironfetters,arepassingnowalongtheopenstreetbeneaththewindowsofyourTempleofEquality!Look!ButtherearemanykindsofhuntersengagedinthePursuitofHappiness,andtheygovariouslyarmed.ItistheInalienableRightofsomeamongthem,totakethefieldafterTHEIRHappinessequippedwithcatandcartwhip,stocks,andironcollar,andtoshouttheirviewhalloa!(alwaysinpraiseof

Liberty)tothemusicofclankingchainsandbloodystripes.

Wheresatthemanylegislatorsofcoarsethreats;ofwordsandblowssuchascoalheaversdealuponeachother,whentheyforgettheirbreeding?Oneveryside.Everysessionhaditsanecdotesofthatkind,andtheactorswereallthere.

DidIrecogniseinthisassembly,abodyofmen,who,applyingthemselvesinanewworldtocorrectsomeofthefalsehoodsandvicesoftheold,purifiedtheavenuestoPublicLife,pavedthedirtywaystoPlaceandPower,debatedandmadelawsfortheCommonGood,andhadnopartybuttheirCountry?

Isawinthem,thewheelsthatmovethemeanestperversionofvirtuousPoliticalMachinerythattheworsttoolseverwrought.Despicabletrickeryatelections;

under-handedtamperingswithpublicofficers;cowardlyattacksuponopponents,withscurrilousnewspapersforshields,andhiredpensfordaggers;shamefultrucklingstomercenaryknaves,whoseclaimtobeconsidered,is,thateverydayandweektheysownewcropsofruinwiththeirvenaltypes,whicharethedragonsteethofyore,ineverythingbutsharpness;aidingsandabettingsofeverybadinclinationinthepopularmind,andartfulsuppressionsofallitsgoodinfluences:suchthingsasthese,andinaword,DishonestFactioninitsmostdepravedandmostunblushingform,staredoutfromeverycornerofthecrowdedhall.

DidIseeamongthem,theintelligenceandrefinement:thetrue,honest,patriot



icheartofAmerica?Hereandthere,weredropsofitsbloodandlife,buttheyscarcelycolouredthestreamofdesperateadventurerswhichsetsthatwayforprofitandforpay.Itisthegameofthesemen,andoftheirprofligateorgans,tomakethestrifeofpoliticssofierceandbrutal,andsodestructiveofallself-respectinworthymen,thatsensitiveanddelicate-mindedpersonsshallbekeptaloof,andthey,andsuchasthey,belefttobattleouttheirselfishviewsunchecked.Andthusthislowestofallscramblingfightsgoeson,andtheywhoinothercountrieswould,fromtheirintelligenceandstation,mostaspiretomakethelaws,dohererecoilthefarthestfromthatdegradation.

Thatthereare,amongtherepresentativesofthepeopleinbothHouses,andamongallparties,somemenofhighcharacterandgreatabilities,Ineednotsay.TheforemostamongthosepoliticianswhoareknowninEurope,havebeenalreadydescribed,andIseenoreasontodepartfromtheruleIhavelaiddownformyguidance,ofabstainingfromallmentionofindividuals.Itwillbesufficienttoadd,thattothemostfavourableaccountsthathavebeenwrittenofthem,Imorethanfullyandmostheartilysubscribe;andthatpersonalintercourseandfreecommunicationhavebredwithinme,nottheresultpredictedintheverydoubtfulproverb,butincreasedadmirationandrespect.Theyarestrikingmentolookat,hardtodeceive,prompttoact,lionsinenergy,Crichtonsinvariedaccomplishments,Indiansinfireofeyeandgesture,Americansinstrongandgenerousimpulse;andtheyaswellrepresentthehonourandwisdomoftheircountryathome,asthedistinguishedgentlemanwhoisnowitsMinisterattheBritishCourtsustainsitshighestcharacterabroad.

Ivisitedbothhousesnearlyeveryday,duringmystayinWashington.OnmyinitiatoryvisittotheHouseofRepresentatives,theydividedagainstadecisionofthechair;butthechairwon.ThesecondtimeIwent,thememberwhowasspeaking,beinginterruptedbyalaugh,mimickedit,asonechildwouldinquarrellingwithanother,andadded,thathewouldmakehonourablegentlemenopposite,singoutalittlemoreontheothersideoftheirmouthspresently.Butinterruptionsarerare;thespeakerbeingusuallyheardinsilence.Therearemorequarrelsthanwithus,andmorethreateningsthangentlemenareaccustomedtoexchangeinanycivilisedsocietyofwhichwehaverecord:butfarm-yardimitationshavenotasyetbeenimportedfromtheParliamentoftheUnitedKingdom.Thefeatureinoratorywhichappearstobethemostpractised,andmostrelished,istheconstantrepetitionofthesameideaorshadowofanideainfreshwords;andtheinqui

ryoutofdoorsisnot,Whatdidhesay?but,Howlongdidhespeak?These,howeverarebutenlargementsofaprinciplewhichprevailselsewhere.

TheSenateisadignifiedanddecorousbody,anditsproceedingsareconductedwithmuchgravityandorder.Bothhousesarehandsomelycarpeted;butthestatetowhichthesecarpetsarereducedbytheuniversaldisregardofthespittoonwithwhicheveryhonourablememberisaccommodated,andtheextraordinaryimprovementsonthepatternwhicharesquirtedanddabbleduponitineverydirection,donotadmitofbeingdescribed.Iwillmerelyobserve,thatIstronglyrecommendallstrangersnottolookatthefloor;andiftheyhappentodropanything,thoughitbetheirpurse,nottopickitupwithanunglovedhandonanyaccount.

Itissomewhatremarkabletoo,atfirst,tosaytheleast,toseesomanyhonour

ablememberswithswelledfaces;anditisscarcelylessremarkabletodiscoverthatthisappearanceiscausedbythequantityoftobaccotheycontrivetostowwithinthehollowofthecheek.Itisstrangeenoughtoo,toseeanhonourablegentlemanleaningbackinhistiltedchairwithhislegsonthedeskbeforehim,shapingaconvenientplugwithhispenknife,andwhenitisquitereadyforuse,shootingtheoldonefromhismouth,asfromapop-gun,andclappingthenewoneinitsplace.

Iwassurprisedtoobservethatevensteadyoldchewersofgreatexperience,arenotalwaysgoodmarksmen,whichhasratherinclinedmetodoubtthatgeneralpr



oficiencywiththerifle,ofwhichwehaveheardsomuchinEngland.Severalgentlemencalleduponmewho,inthecourseofconversation,frequentlymissedthespittoonatfivepaces;andone(buthewascertainlyshort-sighted)mistooktheclosedsashfortheopenwindow,atthree.Onanotheroccasion,whenIdinedout,andwassittingwithtwoladiesandsomegentlemenroundafirebeforedinner,oneofthecompanyfellshortofthefireplace,sixdistincttimes.Iamdisposedtothink,however,thatthiswasoccasionedbyhisnotaimingatthatobject;astherewasawhitemarblehearthbeforethefender,whichwasmoreconvenient,andmayhavesuitedhispurposebetter.

ThePatentOfficeatWashington,furnishesanextraordinaryexampleofAmericanenterpriseandingenuity;fortheimmensenumberofmodelsitcontainsaretheaccumulatedinventionsofonlyfiveyears;thewholeofthepreviouscollectionhavingbeendestroyedbyfire.Theelegantstructureinwhichtheyarearrangedisoneofdesignratherthanexecution,forthereisbutonesideerectedoutoffour,thoughtheworksarestopped.ThePostOfficeisaverycompactandverybeautifulbuilding.Inoneofthedepartments,amongacollectionofrareandcuriousarticles,aredepositedthepresentswhichhavebeenmadefromtimetotimetotheAmericanambassadorsatforeigncourtsbythevariouspotentatestowhomtheyweretheaccreditedagentsoftheRepublic;giftswhichbythelawtheyarenotpermittedtoretain.IconfessthatIlookeduponthisasaverypainfulexhibition,andonebynomeansflatteringtothenationalstandardofhonestyandhonour.Thatcanscarcelybeahighstateofmoralfeelingwhichimaginesagentlemanofreputeandstation,likelytobecorrupted,inthedischargeofhisd

uty,bythepresentofasnuff-box,orarichly-mountedsword,oranEasternshawl;andsurelytheNationwhoreposesconfidenceinherappointedservants,islikelytobebetterserved,thanshewhomakesthemthesubjectofsuchverymeanandpaltrysuspicions.

AtGeorgeTown,inthesuburbs,thereisaJesuitCollege;delightfullysituated,and,sofarasIhadanopportunityofseeing,wellmanaged.ManypersonswhoarenotmembersoftheRomishChurch,availthemselves,Ibelieve,oftheseinstitutions,andoftheadvantageousopportunitiestheyaffordfortheeducationoftheirchildren.Theheightsofthisneighbourhood,abovethePotomacRiver,areverypicturesque:andarefree,Ishouldconceive,fromsomeoftheinsalubritiesofWashington.Theair,atthatelevation,wasquitecoolandrefreshing,wheninthecityitwasburninghot.

ThePresidentsmansionismorelikeanEnglishclub-house,bothwithinandwithout,thananyotherkindofestablishmentwithwhichIcancompareit.Theornamentalgroundaboutithasbeenlaidoutingardenwalks;theyarepretty,andagreeabletotheeye;thoughtheyhavethatuncomfortableairofhavingbeenmadeyesterday,whichisfarfromfavourabletothedisplayofsuchbeauties.

Myfirstvisittothishousewasonthemorningaftermyarrival,whenIwascarriedthitherbyanofficialgentleman,whowassokindastochargehimselfwithmypresentationtothePresident.

Weenteredalargehall,andhavingtwiceorthricerungabellwhichnobodyanswered,walkedwithoutfurtherceremonythroughtheroomsonthegroundfloor,as

diversothergentlemen(mostlywiththeirhatson,andtheirhandsintheirpockets)weredoingveryleisurely.Someofthesehadladieswiththem,towhomtheywereshowingthepremises;otherswereloungingonthechairsandsofas;others,inaperfectstateofexhaustionfromlistlessness,wereyawningdrearily.Thegreaterportionofthisassemblagewereratherassertingtheirsupremacythandoinganythingelse,astheyhadnoparticularbusinessthere,thatanybodyknewof.Afewwerecloselyeyeingthemovables,asiftomakequitesurethatthePresident(whowasfarfrompopular)hadnotmadeawaywithanyofthefurniture,orsoldthefixturesforhisprivatebenefit.



Afterglancingattheseloungers;whowerescatteredoveraprettydrawing-room,openinguponaterracewhichcommandedabeautifulprospectoftheriverandtheadjacentcountry;andwhoweresauntering,too,aboutalargerstate-roomcalledtheEasternDrawing-room;wewentup-stairsintoanotherchamber,wherewerecertainvisitors,waitingforaudiences.Atsightofmyconductor,ablackinplainclothesandyellowslipperswhowasglidingnoiselesslyabout,andwhisperingmessagesintheearsofthemoreimpatient,madeasignofrecognition,andglidedofftoannouncehim.

Wehadpreviouslylookedintoanotherchamberfittedallroundwithagreat,bare,woodendeskorcounter,whereonlayfilesofnewspapers,towhichsundrygentlemenwerereferring.Buttherewerenosuchmeansofbeguilingthetimeinthisapartment,whichwasasunpromisingandtiresomeasanywaiting-roominoneofourpublicestablishments,oranyphysiciansdining-roomduringhishoursofconsultationathome.

Thereweresomefifteenortwentypersonsintheroom.One,atall,wiry,muscularoldman,fromthewest;sunburntandswarthy;withabrownwhitehatonhisknees,andagiantumbrellarestingbetweenhislegs;whosatboltuprightinhischair,frowningsteadilyatthecarpet,andtwitchingthehardlinesabouthismouth,asifhehadmadeuphismindtofixthePresidentonwhathehadtosay,andwouldntbatehimagrain.Another,aKentuckyfarmer,six-feet-sixinheight,withhishaton,andhishandsunderhiscoat-tails,wholeanedagainstthewallandkickedthefloorwithhisheel,asthoughhehadTimesheadunderhisshoe,

andwereliterallykillinghim.Athird,anoval-faced,bilious-lookingman,withsleekblackhaircroppedclose,andwhiskersandbeardshaveddowntobluedots,whosuckedtheheadofathickstick,andfromtimetotimetookitoutofhismouth,toseehowitwasgettingon.Afourthdidnothingbutwhistle.Afifthdidnothingbutspit.Andindeedallthesegentlemenweresoveryperseveringandenergeticinthislatterparticular,andbestowedtheirfavourssoabundantlyuponthecarpet,thatItakeitforgrantedthePresidentialhousemaidshavehighwages,or,tospeakmoregenteelly,anampleamountofcompensation:whichistheAmericanwordforsalary,inthecaseofallpublicservants.

Wehadnotwaitedinthisroommanyminutes,beforetheblackmessengerreturned,andconductedusintoanotherofsmallerdimensions,where,atabusiness-liketablecoveredwithpapers,satthePresidenthimself.Helookedsomewhatworna

ndanxious,andwellhemight;beingatwarwitheverybodybuttheexpressionofhisfacewasmildandpleasant,andhismannerwasremarkablyunaffected,gentlemanly,andagreeable.Ithoughtthatinhiswholecarriageanddemeanour,hebecamehisstationsingularlywell.

Beingadvisedthatthesensibleetiquetteoftherepublicancourtadmittedofatraveller,likemyself,declining,withoutanyimpropriety,aninvitationtodinner,whichdidnotreachmeuntilIhadconcludedmyarrangementsforleavingWashingtonsomedaysbeforethattowhichitreferred,Ionlyreturnedtothishouseonce.Itwasontheoccasionofoneofthosegeneralassemblieswhichareheldoncertainnights,betweenthehoursofnineandtwelveoclock,andarecalled,ratheroddly,Levees.

Iwent,withmywife,ataboutten.Therewasaprettydensecrowdofcarriagesandpeopleinthecourt-yard,andsofarasIcouldmakeout,therewerenoveryclearregulationsforthetakinguporsettingdownofcompany.Therewerecertainlynopolicementosoothestartledhorses,eitherbysawingattheirbridlesorflourishingtruncheonsintheireyes;andIamreadytomakeoaththatnoinoffensivepersonswereknockedviolentlyonthehead,orpokedacutelyintheirbacksorstomachs;orbroughttoastandstillbyanysuchgentlemeans,andthentakenintocustodyfornotmovingon.Buttherewasnoconfusionordisorder.Ourcarriagereachedtheporchinitsturn,withoutanyblustering,swearing,shouting,backing,orotherdisturbance:andwedismountedwithasmucheaseandcom



fortasthoughwehadbeenescortedbythewholeMetropolitanForcefromAtoZinclusive.

Thesuiteofroomsontheground-floorwerelightedup,andamilitarybandwasplayinginthehall.Inthesmallerdrawing-room,thecentreofacircleofcompany,werethePresidentandhisdaughter-in-law,whoactedastheladyofthemansion;andaveryinteresting,graceful,andaccomplishedladytoo.Onegentlemanwhostoodamongthisgroup,appearedtotakeuponhimselfthefunctionsofamasteroftheceremonies.Isawnootherofficersorattendants,andnonewereneeded.

Thegreatdrawing-room,whichIhavealreadymentioned,andtheotherchambersontheground-floor,werecrowdedtoexcess.Thecompanywasnot,inoursenseoftheterm,select,foritcomprehendedpersonsofverymanygradesandclasses;norwasthereanygreatdisplayofcostlyattire:indeed,someofthecostumesmayhavebeen,foraughtIknow,grotesqueenough.Butthedecorumandproprietyofbehaviourwhichprevailed,wereunbrokenbyanyrudeordisagreeableincident;andeveryman,evenamongthemiscellaneouscrowdinthehallwhowereadmittedwithoutanyordersorticketstolookon,appearedtofeelthathewasapartoftheInstitution,andwasresponsibleforitspreservingabecomingcharacter,andappearingtothebestadvantage.

Thatthesevisitors,too,whatevertheirstation,werenotwithoutsomerefinementoftasteandappreciationofintellectualgifts,andgratitudetothosemenw

ho,bythepeacefulexerciseofgreatabilities,shednewcharmsandassociationsuponthehomesoftheircountrymen,andelevatetheircharacterinotherlands,wasmostearnestlytestifiedbytheirreceptionofWashingtonIrving,mydearfriend,whohadrecentlybeenappointedMinisteratthecourtofSpain,andwhowasamongthemthatnight,inhisnewcharacter,forthefirstandlasttimebeforegoingabroad.IsincerelybelievethatinallthemadnessofAmericanpolitics,fewpublicmenwouldhavebeensoearnestly,devotedly,andaffectionatelycaressed,asthismostcharmingwriter:andIhaveseldomrespectedapublicassemblymore,thanIdidthiseagerthrong,whenIsawthemturningwithonemindfromnoisyoratorsandofficersofstate,andflockingwithagenerousandhonestimpulseroundthemanofquietpursuits:proudinhispromotionasreflectingbackupontheircountry:andgratefultohimwiththeirwholeheartsforthestoreofgracefulfancieshehadpouredoutamongthem.Longmayhedispensesuchtr

easureswithunsparinghand;andlongmaytheyrememberhimasworthily!

ThetermwehadassignedforthedurationofourstayinWashingtonwasnowatanend,andweweretobegintotravel;fortherailroaddistanceswehadtraversedyet,injourneyingamongtheseoldertowns,areonthatgreatcontinentlookeduponasnothing.

IhadatfirstintendedgoingSouthtoCharleston.ButwhenIcametoconsiderthelengthoftimewhichthisjourneywouldoccupy,andtheprematureheatoftheseason,whichevenatWashingtonhadbeenoftenverytrying;andweighedmoreover,inmyownmind,thepainoflivingintheconstantcontemplationofslavery,againstthemorethandoubtfulchancesofmyeverseeingit,inthetimeIhadtospare,strippedofthedisguisesinwhichitwouldcertainlybedressed,and

soaddinganyitemtothehostoffactsalreadyheapedtogetheronthesubject;IbegantolistentooldwhisperingswhichhadoftenbeenpresenttomeathomeinEngland,whenIlittlethoughtofeverbeinghere;andtodreamagainofcitiesgrowingup,likepalacesinfairytales,amongthewildsandforestsofthewest.

TheadviceIreceivedinmostquarterswhenIbegantoyieldtomydesireoftravellingtowardsthatpointofthecompasswas,accordingtocustom,sufficientlycheerless:mycompanionbeingthreatenedwithmoreperils,dangers,anddiscomforts,thanIcanrememberorwouldcatalogueifIcould;butofwhichitwillbe



sufficienttoremarkthatblowings-upinsteamboatsandbreakings-downincoacheswereamongtheleast.But,havingawesternroutesketchedoutformebythebestandkindestauthoritytowhichIcouldhaveresorted,andputtingnogreatfaithinthesediscouragements,Isoondeterminedonmyplanofaction.

Thiswastotravelsouth,onlytoRichmondinVirginia;andthentoturn,andshapeourcoursefortheFarWest;whitherIbeseechthereaderscompany,inanewchapter.

ChapterIXANightSteameronthePotomacRiver.VirginiaRoad,andaBlackDriver.Richmond.Baltimore.TheHarrisburgMail,andaGlimpseoftheCity.ACanalBoat

WEweretoproceedinthefirstinstancebysteamboat;andasitisusualtosleeponboard,inconsequenceofthestarting-hourbeingfouroclockinthemorning,wewentdowntowhereshelay,atthatveryuncomfortabletimeforsuchexpeditionswhenslippersaremostvaluable,andafamiliarbed,intheperspectiveofanhourortwo,looksuncommonlypleasant.

Itistenoclockatnight:sayhalf-pastten:moonlight,warm,anddullenough.Thesteamer(notunlikeachildsNoahsarkinform,withthemachineryonthetopoftheroof)isridinglazilyupanddown,andbumpingclumsilyagainstthewoodenpier,astherippleoftherivertrifleswithitsunwieldycarcase.Thewharf

issomedistancefromthecity.Thereisnobodydownhere;andoneortwodulllampsuponthesteamersdecksaretheonlysignsofliferemaining,whenourcoachhasdrivenaway.Assoonasourfootstepsareheardupontheplanks,afatnegress,particularlyfavouredbynatureinrespectofbustle,emergesfromsomedarkstairs,andmarshalsmywifetowardstheladiescabin,towhichretreatshegoes,followedbyamightybaleofcloaksandgreat-coats.Ivaliantlyresolvenottogotobedatall,buttowalkupanddownthepiertillmorning.

Ibeginmypromenadethinkingofallkindsofdistantthingsandpersons,andofnothingnearandpaceupanddownforhalf-an-hour.ThenIgoonboardagain;andgettingintothelightofoneofthelamps,lookatmywatchandthinkitmusthavestopped;andwonderwhathasbecomeofthefaithfulsecretarywhomIbroughtalongwithmefromBoston.Heissuppingwithourlatelandlord(aFieldMar

shal,atleast,nodoubt)inhonourofourdeparture,andmaybetwohourslonger.Iwalkagain,butitgetsdullerandduller:themoongoesdown:nextJuneseemsfartheroffinthedark,andtheechoesofmyfootstepsmakemenervous.Ithasturnedcoldtoo;andwalkingupanddownwithoutmycompanioninsuchlonelycircumstances,isbutpooramusement.SoIbreakmystaunchresolution,andthinkitmaybe,perhaps,aswelltogotobed.

Igoonboardagain;openthedoorofthegentlemenscabinandwalkin.Somehoworotherfromitsbeingsoquiet,IsupposeIhavetakenitintomyheadthatthereisnobodythere.Tomyhorrorandamazementitisfullofsleepersineverystage,shape,attitude,andvarietyofslumber:intheberths,onthechairs,onthefloors,onthetables,andparticularlyroundthestove,mydetestedenemy.Itakeanotherstepforward,andslipontheshiningfaceofablacksteward,wh

oliesrolledinablanketonthefloor.Hejumpsup,grins,halfinpainandhalfinhospitality;whispersmyownnameinmyear;andgropingamongthesleepers,leadsmetomyberth.Standingbesideit,Icounttheseslumberingpassengers,andgetpastforty.Thereisnouseingoingfurther,soIbegintoundress.Asthechairsarealloccupied,andthereisnothingelsetoputmyclotheson,Idepositthemupontheground:notwithoutsoilingmyhands,foritisinthesameconditionasthecarpetsintheCapitol,andfromthesamecause.Havingbutpartiallyundressed,Iclamberonmyshelf,andholdthecurtainopenforafewminuteswhileIlookroundonallmyfellow-travellersagain.Thatdone,Iletitfallonthem,andontheworld:turnround:andgotosleep.



Iwake,ofcourse,whenwegetunderweigh,forthereisagooddealofnoise.Thedayisthenjustbreaking.Everybodywakesatthesametime.Someareself-possesseddirectly,andsomearemuchperplexedtomakeoutwheretheyareuntiltheyhaverubbedtheireyes,andleaningononeelbow,lookedaboutthem.Someyawn,somegroan,nearlyallspit,andafewgetup.Iamamongtherisers:foritiseasytofeel,withoutgoingintothefreshair,thattheatmosphereofthecabinisvileinthelastdegree.Ihuddleonmyclothes,godownintothefore-cabin,getshavedbythebarber,andwashmyself.Thewashinganddressingapparatusforthepassengersgenerally,consistsoftwojack-towels,threesmallwoodenbasins,akegofwaterandaladletoserveitoutwith,sixsquareinchesoflooking-glass,twodittodittoofyellowsoap,acombandbrushforthehead,andnothingfortheteeth.Everybodyusesthecombandbrush,exceptmyself.Everybodystarestoseemeusingmyown;andtwoorthreegentlemenarestronglydisposedtobantermeonmyprejudices,butdont.WhenIhavemademytoilet,Igouponthehurricane-deck,andsetinfortwohoursofhardwalkingupanddown.Thesunisrisingbrilliantly;wearepassingMountVernon,whereWashingtonliesburied;theriveriswideandrapid;anditsbanksarebeautiful.Allthegloryandsplendourofthedayarecomingon,andgrowingbrightereveryminute.

Ateightoclock,webreakfastinthecabinwhereIpassedthenight,butthewindowsanddoorsareallthrownopen,andnowitisfreshenough.Thereisnohurryorgreedinessapparentinthedespatchofthemeal.Itislongerthanatravellingbreakfastwithus;moreorderly,andmorepolite.

SoonafternineoclockwecometoPotomacCreek,wherewearetoland;andthencomestheoddestpartofthejourney.Sevenstage-coachesarepreparingtocarryuson.Someofthemareready,someofthemarenotready.Someofthedriversareblacks,somewhites.Therearefourhorsestoeachcoach,andallthehorses,harnessedorunharnessed,arethere.Thepassengersaregettingoutofthesteamboat,andintothecoaches;theluggageisbeingtransferredinnoisywheelbarrows;thehorsesarefrightened,andimpatienttostart;theblackdriversarechatteringtothemlikesomanymonkeys;andthewhiteoneswhoopinglikesomanydrovers:forthemainthingtobedoneinallkindsofhostleringhere,istomakeasmuchnoiseaspossible.ThecoachesaresomethingliketheFrenchcoaches,butnotnearlysogood.Inlieuofsprings,theyarehungonbandsofthestrongestleather.Thereisverylittlechoiceordifferencebetweenthem;andtheym

aybelikenedtothecarportionoftheswingsatanEnglishfair,roofed,putuponaxle-treesandwheels,andcurtainedwithpaintedcanvas.Theyarecoveredwithmudfromtherooftothewheel-tire,andhaveneverbeencleanedsincetheywerefirstbuilt.

TheticketswehavereceivedonboardthesteamboataremarkedNo.1,sowebelongtocoachNo.1.Ithrowmycoatonthebox,andhoistmywifeandhermaidintotheinside.Ithasonlyonestep,andthatbeingaboutayardfromtheground,isusuallyapproachedbyachair:whenthereisnochair,ladiestrustinProvidence.Thecoachholdsnineinside,havingaseatacrossfromdoortodoor,whereweinEnglandputourlegs:sothatthereisonlyonefeatmoredifficultintheperformancethangettingin,andthatis,gettingoutagain.Thereisonlyoneoutsidepassenger,andhesitsuponthebox.AsIamthatone,Iclimbup;an

dwhiletheyarestrappingtheluggageontheroof,andheapingitintoakindoftraybehind,haveagoodopportunityoflookingatthedriver.

Heisanegroveryblackindeed.Heisdressedinacoarsepepper-and-saltsuitexcessivelypatchedanddarned(particularlyattheknees),greystockings,enormousunblackedhigh-lowshoes,andveryshorttrousers.Hehastwooddgloves:oneofparti-colouredworsted,andoneofleather.Hehasaveryshortwhip,brokeninthemiddleandbandagedupwithstring.Andyethewearsalow-crowned,broad-brimmed,blackhat:faintlyshadowingforthakindofinsaneimitationofanEnglishcoachman!ButsomebodyinauthoritycriesGoahead!asIammakingthese



observations.Themailtakestheleadinafour-horsewaggon,andallthecoachesfollowinprocession:headedbyNo.1.

Bytheway,wheneveranEnglishmanwouldcryAllright!anAmericancriesGoahead!whichissomewhatexpressiveofthenationalcharacterofthetwocountries.

Thefirsthalf-mileoftheroadisoverbridgesmadeoflooseplankslaidacrosstwoparallelpoles,whichtiltupasthewheelsrolloverthem;andINtheriver.Theriverhasaclayeybottomandisfullofholes,sothathalfahorseisconstantlydisappearingunexpectedly,andcantbefoundagainforsometime.

Butwegetpasteventhis,andcometotheroaditself,whichisaseriesofalternateswampsandgravel-pits.Atremendousplaceisclosebeforeus,theblackdriverrollshiseyes,screwshismouthupveryround,andlooksstraightbetweenthetwoleaders,asifheweresayingtohimself,Wehavedonethisoftenbefore,butNOWIthinkweshallhaveacrash.Hetakesareinineachhand;jerksandpullsatboth;anddancesonthesplashboardwithbothfeet(keepinghisseat,ofcourse)likethelatelamentedDucrowontwoofhisfierycoursers.Wecometothespot,sinkdowninthemirenearlytothecoachwindows,tiltononesideatanangleofforty-fivedegrees,andstickthere.Theinsidesscreamdismally;thecoachstops;thehorsesflounder;alltheothersixcoachesstop;andtheirfour-and-twentyhorsesflounderlikewise:butmerelyforcompany,andinsympathywithours.Thenthefollowingcircumstancesoccur.

BLACKDRIVER(tothehorses).Hi!

Nothinghappens.Insidesscreamagain.

BLACKDRIVER(tothehorses).Ho!

Horsesplunge,andsplashtheblackdriver.

GENTLEMANINSIDE(lookingout).Why,whatonairth

Gentlemanreceivesavarietyofsplashesanddrawshisheadinagain,withoutfinishinghisquestionorwaitingforananswer.

BLACKDRIVER(stilltothehorses).Jiddy!Jiddy!

Horsespullviolently,dragthecoachoutofthehole,anddrawitupabank;sosteep,thattheblackdriverslegsflyupintotheair,andhegoesbackamongtheluggageontheroof.Butheimmediatelyrecovershimself,andcries(stilltothehorses),

Pill!

Noeffect.Onthecontrary,thecoachbeginstorollbackuponNo.2,whichrollsbackuponNo.3,whichrollsbackuponNo.4,andsoon,untilNo.7isheardtocurseandswear,nearlyaquarterofamilebehind.

BLACKDRIVER(louderthanbefore).Pill!

Horsesmakeanotherstruggletogetupthebank,andagainthecoachrollsbackward.

BLACKDRIVER(louderthanbefore).Pe-e-e-ill!

Horsesmakeadesperatestruggle.

BLACKDRIVER(recoveringspirits).Hi,Jiddy,Jiddy,Pill!



Horsesmakeanothereffort.

BLACKDRIVER(withgreatvigour).AllyLoo!Hi.Jiddy,Jiddy.Pill.AllyLoo!

Horsesalmostdoit.

BLACKDRIVER(withhiseyesstartingoutofhishead).Lee,den.Lee,dere.Hi.Jiddy,Jiddy.Pill.AllyLoo.Lee-e-e-e-e!

Theyrunupthebank,andgodownagainontheothersideatafearfulpace.Itisimpossibletostopthem,andatthebottomthereisadeephollow,fullofwater.Thecoachrollsfrightfully.Theinsidesscream.Themudandwaterflyaboutus.Theblackdriverdanceslikeamadman.Suddenlyweareallrightbysomeextraordinarymeans,andstoptobreathe.

Ablackfriendoftheblackdriverissittingonafence.Theblackdriverrecogniseshimbytwirlinghisheadroundandroundlikeaharlequin,rollinghiseyes,shrugginghisshoulders,andgrinningfromeartoear.Hestopsshort,turnstome,andsays:

Weshallgetyouthroughsa,likeafiddle,andhopeapleaseyouwhenwegetyouthroughsa.Oldoomanathomesa:chucklingverymuch.Outsidegentlemansa,heoftenrememberoldoomanathomesa,grinningagain.

Ayay,welltakecareoftheoldwoman.Dontbeafraid.

Theblackdrivergrinsagain,butthereisanotherhole,andbeyondthat,anotherbank,closebeforeus.Sohestopsshort:cries(tothehorsesagain)Easy.Easyden.Ease.Steady.Hi.Jiddy.Pill.Ally.Loo,butneverLee!untilwearereducedtotheverylastextremity,andareinthemidstofdifficulties,extricationfromwhichappearstobeallbutimpossible.

Andsowedothetenmilesorthereaboutsintwohoursandahalf;breakingnobones,thoughbruisingagreatmany;andinshortgettingthroughthedistance,likeafiddle.

ThissingularkindofcoachingterminatesatFredericksburgh,whencethereisarailwaytoRichmond.Thetractofcountrythroughwhichittakesitscoursewasonceproductive;butthesoilhasbeenexhaustedbythesystemofemployingagreatamountofslavelabourinforcingcrops,withoutstrengtheningtheland:anditisnowlittlebetterthanasandydesertovergrownwithtrees.Drearyanduninterestingasitsaspectis,Iwasgladtothehearttofindanythingonwhichoneofthecursesofthishorribleinstitutionhasfallen;andhadgreaterpleasureincontemplatingthewitheredground,thantherichestandmostthrivingcultivationinthesameplacecouldpossiblyhaveaffordedme.

Inthisdistrict,asinallotherswhereslaverysitsbrooding,(Ihavefrequentlyheardthisadmitted,evenbythosewhoareitswarmestadvocates:)thereisanairofruinanddecayabroad,whichisinseparablefromthesystem.Thebarns

andouthousesaremoulderingaway;theshedsarepatchedandhalfroofless;thelogcabins(builtinVirginiawithexternalchimneysmadeofclayorwood)aresqualidinthelastdegree.Thereisnolookofdecentcomfortanywhere.Themiserablestationsbytherailwayside,thegreatwildwood-yards,whencetheengineissuppliedwithfuel;thenegrochildrenrollingonthegroundbeforethecabindoors,withdogsandpigs;thebipedbeastsofburdenslinkingpast:gloomanddejectionareuponthemall.

Inthenegrocarbelongingtothetraininwhichwemadethisjourney,wereamotherandherchildrenwhohadjustbeenpurchased;thehusbandandfatherbeing



leftbehindwiththeiroldowner.Thechildrencriedthewholeway,andthemotherwasmiseryspicture.ThechampionofLife,Liberty,andthePursuitofHappiness,whohadboughtthem,rodeinthesametrain;and,everytimewestopped,gotdowntoseethattheyweresafe.TheblackinSinbadsTravelswithoneeyeinthemiddleofhisforeheadwhichshonelikeaburningcoal,wasnaturesaristocratcomparedwiththiswhitegentleman.

Itwasbetweensixandsevenoclockintheevening,whenwedrovetothehotel:infrontofwhich,andonthetopofthebroadflightofstepsleadingtothedoor,twoorthreecitizenswerebalancingthemselvesonrocking-chairs,andsmokingcigars.Wefounditaverylargeandelegantestablishment,andwereaswellentertainedastravellersneeddesiretobe.Theclimatebeingathirstyone,therewasnever,atanyhouroftheday,ascarcityofloungersinthespaciousbar,oracessationofthemixingofcoolliquors:buttheywereamerrierpeoplehere,andhadmusicalinstrumentsplayingtothemonights,whichitwasatreattohearagain.

Thenextday,andthenext,werodeandwalkedaboutthetown,whichisdelightfullysituatedoneighthills,overhangingJamesRiver;asparklingstream,studdedhereandtherewithbrightislands,orbrawlingoverbrokenrocks.AlthoughitwasyetbutthemiddleofMarch,theweatherinthissoutherntemperaturewasextremelywarm;thepeech-treesandmagnoliaswereinfullbloom;andthetreesweregreen.Inalowgroundamongthehills,isavalleyknownasBloodyRun,fromaterribleconflictwiththeIndianswhichonceoccurredthere.Itisagoodpl

aceforsuchastruggle,and,likeeveryotherspotIsawassociatedwithanylegendofthatwildpeoplenowsorapidlyfadingfromtheearth,interestedmeverymuch.

ThecityistheseatofthelocalparliamentofVirginia;andinitsshadylegislativehalls,someoratorsweredrowsilyholdingforthtothehotnoonday.Bydintofconstantrepetition,however,theseconstitutionalsightshadverylittlemoreinterestformethansomanyparochialvestries;andIwasgladtoexchangethisoneforaloungeinawell-arrangedpubliclibraryofsometenthousandvolumes,andavisittoatobaccomanufactory,wheretheworkmenareallslaves.

Isawinthisplacethewholeprocessofpicking,rolling,pressing,drying,packingincasks,andbranding.Allthetobaccothusdealtwith,wasincourseofm

anufactureforchewing;andonewouldhavesupposedtherewasenoughinthatonestorehousetohavefilledeventhecomprehensivejawsofAmerica.Inthisform,theweedlooksliketheoil-cakeonwhichwefattencattle;andevenwithoutreferencetoitsconsequences,issufficientlyuninviting.

Manyoftheworkmenappearedtobestrongmen,anditishardlynecessarytoaddthattheywerealllabouringquietly,then.Aftertwooclockintheday,theyareallowedtosing,acertainnumberatatime.ThehourstrikingwhileIwasthere,sometwentysangahymninparts,andsangitbynomeansill;pursuingtheirworkmeanwhile.AbellrangasIwasabouttoleave,andtheyallpouredforthintoabuildingontheoppositesideofthestreettodinner.IsaidseveraltimesthatIshouldliketoseethemattheirmeal;butasthegentlemantowhomImentionedthisdesireappearedtobesuddenlytakenratherdeaf,Ididnotpurs

uetherequest.OftheirappearanceIshallhavesomethingtosay,presently.

Onthefollowingday,Ivisitedaplantationorfarm,ofabouttwelvehundredacres,ontheoppositebankoftheriver.Hereagain,althoughIwentdownwiththeowneroftheestate,tothequarter,asthatpartofitinwhichtheslavesliveiscalled,Iwasnotinvitedtoenterintoanyoftheirhuts.AllIsawofthem,was,thattheywereverycrazy,wretchedcabins,neartowhichgroupsofhalf-nakedchildrenbaskedinthesun,orwallowedonthedustyground.ButIbelievethatthisgentlemanisaconsiderateandexcellentmaster,whoinheritedhisfiftyslaves,andisneitherabuyernorasellerofhumanstock;andIamsure,f



rommyownobservationandconviction,thatheisakind-hearted,worthyman.

Theplantershousewasanairy,rusticdwelling,thatbroughtDefoesdescriptionofsuchplacesstronglytomyrecollection.Thedaywasverywarm,buttheblindsbeingallclosed,andthewindowsanddoorssetwideopen,ashadycoolnessrustledthroughtherooms,whichwasexquisitelyrefreshingaftertheglareandheatwithout.Beforethewindowswasanopenpiazza,where,inwhattheycallthehotweatherwhateverthatmaybetheyslinghammocks,anddrinkanddozeluxuriously.Idonotknowhowtheircoolrejectionsmaytastewithinthehammocks,but,havingexperience,Icanreportthat,outofthem,themoundsoficesandthebowlsofmint-julepandsherry-cobblertheymakeintheselatitudes,arerefreshmentsnevertobethoughtofafterwards,insummer,bythosewhowouldpreservecontentedminds.

Therearetwobridgesacrosstheriver:onebelongstotherailroad,andtheother,whichisaverycrazyaffair,istheprivatepropertyofsomeoldladyintheneighbourhood,wholeviestollsuponthetownspeople.Crossingthisbridge,onmywayback,Isawanoticepaintedonthegate,cautioningallpersonstodriveslowly:underapenalty,iftheoffenderwereawhiteman,offivedollars;ifanegro,fifteenstripes.

Thesamedecayandgloomthatoverhangthewaybywhichitisapproached,hoverabovethetownofRichmond.Thereareprettyvillasandcheerfulhousesinitsstreets,andNaturesmilesuponthecountryround;butjostlingitshandsomeresi

dences,likeslaveryitselfgoinghandinhandwithmanyloftyvirtues,aredeplorabletenements,fencesunrepaired,wallscrumblingintoruinousheaps.Hintinggloomilyatthingsbelowthesurface,these,andmanyothertokensofthesamedescription,forcethemselvesuponthenotice,andarerememberedwithdepressinginfluence,whenlivelierfeaturesareforgotten.

Tothosewhoarehappilyunaccustomedtothem,thecountenancesinthestreetsandlabouring-places,too,areshocking.Allmenwhoknowthattherearelawsagainstinstructingslaves,ofwhichthepainsandpenaltiesgreatlyexceedintheiramountthefinesimposedonthosewhomaimandtorturethem,mustbepreparedtofindtheirfacesverylowinthescaleofintellectualexpression.Butthedarknessnotofskin,butmindwhichmeetsthestrangerseyeateveryturn;thebrutalizingandblottingoutofallfairercharacterstracedbyNatureshand;immeas

urablyoutdohisworstbelief.Thattravelledcreationofthegreatsatiristsbrain,whofreshfromlivingamonghorses,peeredfromahighcasementdownuponhisownkindwithtremblinghorror,wasscarcelymorerepelledanddauntedbythesight,thanthosewholookuponsomeofthesefacesforthefirsttimemustsurelybe.

Ileftthelastofthembehindmeinthepersonofawretcheddrudge,who,afterrunningtoandfroalldaytillmidnight,andmopinginhisstealthywinksofsleepuponthestairsbetweenwhiles,waswashingthedarkpassagesatfouroclockinthemorning;andwentuponmywaywithagratefulheartthatIwasnotdoomedtolivewhereslaverywas,andhadneverhadmysensesbluntedtoitswrongsandhorrorsinaslave-rockedcradle.

IthadbeenmyintentiontoproceedbyJamesRiverandChesapeakeBaytoBaltimore;butoneofthesteamboatsbeingabsentfromherstationthroughsomeaccident,andthemeansofconveyancebeingconsequentlyrendereduncertain,wereturnedtoWashingtonbythewaywehadcome(thereweretwoconstablesonboardthesteamboat,inpursuitofrunawayslaves),andhaltingthereagainforonenight,wentontoBaltimorenextafternoon.

ThemostcomfortableofallthehotelsofwhichIhadanyexperienceintheUnitedStates,andtheywerenotafew,isBarnums,inthatcity:wheretheEnglishtravellerwillfindcurtainstohisbed,forthefirstandprobablythelasttime



inAmerica(thisisadisinterestedremark,forIneverusethem);andwherehewillbelikelytohaveenoughwaterforwashinghimself,whichisnotatallacommoncase.

ThiscapitalofthestateofMarylandisabustling,busytown,withagreatdealoftrafficofvariouskinds,andinparticularofwatercommerce.Thatportionofthetownwhichitmostfavoursisnoneofthecleanest,itistrue;buttheupperpartisofaverydifferentcharacter,andhasmanyagreeablestreetsandpublicbuildings.TheWashingtonMonument,whichisahandsomepillarwithastatueonitssummit;theMedicalCollege;andtheBattleMonumentinmemoryofanengagementwiththeBritishatNorthPoint;arethemostconspicuousamongthem.

Thereisaverygoodprisoninthiscity,andtheStatePenitentiaryisalsoamongitsinstitutions.Inthislatterestablishmentthereweretwocuriouscases.

Onewasthatofayoungman,whohadbeentriedforthemurderofhisfather.Theevidencewasentirelycircumstantial,andwasveryconflictinganddoubtful;norwasitpossibletoassignanymotivewhichcouldhavetemptedhimtothecommissionofsotremendousacrime.Hehadbeentriedtwice;andonthesecondoccasionthejuryfeltsomuchhesitationinconvictinghim,thattheyfoundaverdictofmanslaughter,ormurderintheseconddegree;whichitcouldnotpossiblybe,astherehad,beyondalldoubt,beennoquarrelorprovocation,andifhewereguiltyatall,hewasunquestionablyguiltyofmurderinitsbroadestandworstsignification.

Theremarkablefeatureinthecasewas,thatiftheunfortunatedeceasedwerenotreallymurderedbythisownsonofhis,hemusthavebeenmurderedbyhisownbrother.Theevidencelayinamostremarkablemanner,betweenthosetwo.Onallthesuspiciouspoints,thedeadmansbrotherwasthewitness:alltheexplanationsfortheprisoner(someofthemextremelyplausible)went,byconstructionandinference,toinculcatehimasplottingtofixtheguiltuponhisnephew.Itmusthavebeenoneofthem:andthejuryhadtodecidebetweentwosetsofsuspicions,almostequallyunnatural,unaccountable,andstrange.

Theothercase,wasthatofamanwhooncewenttoacertaindistillersandstoleacoppermeasurecontainingaquantityofliquor.Hewaspursuedandtakenwiththepropertyinhispossession,andwassentencedtotwoyearsimprisonment.On

comingoutofthejail,attheexpirationofthatterm,hewentbacktothesamedistillers,andstolethesamecoppermeasurecontainingthesamequantityofliquor.Therewasnottheslightestreasontosupposethatthemanwishedtoreturntoprison:indeedeverything,butthecommissionoftheoffence,madedirectlyagainstthatassumption.Thereareonlytwowaysofaccountingforthisextraordinaryproceeding.Oneis,thatafterundergoingsomuchforthiscoppermeasureheconceivedhehadestablishedasortofclaimandrighttoit.Theotherthat,bydintoflongthinkingabout,ithadbecomeamonomaniawithhim,andhadacquiredafascinationwhichhefounditimpossibletoresist;swellingfromanEarthlyCopperGallonintoanEtherealGoldenVat.

AfterremaininghereacoupleofdaysIboundmyselftoarigidadherencetotheplanIhadlaiddownsorecently,andresolvedtosetforwardonourwesternjo

urneywithoutanymoredelay.Accordingly,havingreducedtheluggagewithinthesmallestpossiblecompass(bysendingbacktoNewYork,tobeafterwardsforwardedtousinCanada,somuchofitaswasnotabsolutelywanted);andhavingprocuredthenecessarycredentialstobanking-housesontheway;andhavingmoreoverlookedfortwoeveningsatthesettingsun,withaswell-definedanideaofthecountrybeforeusasifwehadbeengoingtotravelintotheverycentreofthatplanet;weleftBaltimorebyanotherrailwayathalf-pasteightinthemorning,andreachedthetownofYork,somesixtymilesoff,bytheearlydinner-timeoftheHotelwhichwasthestarting-placeofthefour-horsecoach,whereinweweretoproceedtoHarrisburg.



Thisconveyance,theboxofwhichIwasfortunateenoughtosecure,hadcomedowntomeetusattherailroadstation,andwasasmuddyandcumbersomeasusual.Asmorepassengerswerewaitingforusattheinn-door,thecoachmanobservedunderhisbreath,intheusualself-communicativevoice,lookingthewhileathismouldyharnessasifitweretothathewasaddressinghimself,

IexpectweshallwantTHEBIGcoach.

Icouldnothelpwonderingwithinmyselfwhatthesizeofthisbigcoachmightbe,andhowmanypersonsitmightbedesignedtohold;forthevehiclewhichwastoosmallforourpurposewassomethinglargerthantwoEnglishheavynightcoaches,andmighthavebeenthetwin-brotherofaFrenchDiligence.Myspeculationswerespeedilysetatrest,however,forassoonaswehaddined,therecamerumblingupthestreet,shakingitssideslikeacorpulentgiant,akindofbargeonwheels.Aftermuchblunderingandbacking,itstoppedatthedoor:rollingheavilyfromsidetosidewhenitsothermotionhadceased,asifithadtakencoldinitsdampstable,andbetweenthat,andthehavingbeenrequiredinitsdropsicaloldagetomoveatanyfasterpacethanawalk,weredistressedbyshortnessofwind.

IfhereainttheHarrisburgmailatlast,anddreadfulbrightandsmarttolookattoo,criedanelderlygentlemaninsomeexcitement,darnmymother!

Idontknowwhatthesensationofbeingdarnedmaybe,orwhetheramansmotherhasakeenerrelishordisrelishoftheprocessthananybodyelse;butiftheenduranceofthismysteriousceremonybytheoldladyinquestionhaddependedontheaccuracyofhersonsvisioninrespecttotheabstractbrightnessandsmartnessoftheHarrisburgmail,shewouldcertainlyhaveundergoneitsinfliction.However,theybookedtwelvepeopleinside;andtheluggage(includingsuchtriflesasalargerocking-chair,andagood-sizeddining-table)beingatlengthmadefastupontheroof,westartedoffingreatstate.

Atthedoorofanotherhotel,therewasanotherpassengertobetakenup.

Anyroom,sir?criesthenewpassengertothecoachman.

Well,theresroomenough,repliesthecoachman,withoutgettingdown,orevenlookingathim.

Thereantnoroomatall,sir,bawlsagentlemaninside.Whichanothergentleman(alsoinside)confirms,bypredictingthattheattempttointroduceanymorepassengerswontfitnohow.

Thenewpassenger,withoutanyexpressionofanxiety,looksintothecoach,andthenlooksupatthecoachman:Now,howdoyoumeantofixit?sayshe,afterapause:forIMUSTgo.

Thecoachmanemployshimselfintwistingthelashofhiswhipintoaknot,andtakesnomorenoticeofthequestion:clearlysignifyingthatitisanybodysbusin

essbuthis,andthatthepassengerswoulddowelltofixit,amongthemselves.Inthisstateofthings,mattersseemtobeapproximatingtoafixofanotherkind,whenanotherinsidepassengerinacorner,whoisnearlysuffocated,criesfaintly,Illgetout.

Thisisnomatterofrelieforself-congratulationtothedriver,forhisimmovablephilosophyisperfectlyundisturbedbyanythingthathappensinthecoach.Ofallthingsintheworld,thecoachwouldseemtobetheverylastuponhismind.Theexchangeismade,however,andthenthepassengerwhohasgivenuphisseatmakesathirduponthebox,seatinghimselfinwhathecallsthemiddle;that



is,withhalfhispersononmylegs,andtheotherhalfonthedrivers.

Goa-head,capen,criesthecolonel,whodirects.

Go-lang!criesthecapentohiscompany,thehorses,andawaywego.

Wetookupataruralbar-room,afterwehadgoneafewmiles,anintoxicatedgentlemanwhoclimbedupontheroofamongtheluggage,andsubsequentlyslippingoffwithouthurtinghimself,wasseeninthedistantperspectivereelingbacktothegrog-shopwherewehadfoundhim.Wealsopartedwithmoreofourfreightatdifferenttimes,sothatwhenwecametochangehorses,Iwasagainaloneoutside.

Thecoachmenalwayschangewiththehorses,andareusuallyasdirtyasthecoach.ThefirstwasdressedlikeaveryshabbyEnglishbaker;thesecondlikeaRussianpeasant:forheworealoosepurplecamletrobe,withafurcollar,tiedroundhiswaistwithaparti-colouredworstedsash;greytrousers;lightbluegloves:andacapofbearskin.Ithadbythistimecomeontorainveryheavily,andtherewasacolddampmistbesides,whichpenetratedtotheskin.Iwasgladtotakeadvantageofastoppageandgetdowntostretchmylegs,shakethewateroffmygreat-coat,andswallowtheusualanti-temperancerecipeforkeepingoutthecold.

WhenImountedtomyseatagain,Iobservedanewparcellyingonthecoachroof

,whichItooktobearatherlargefiddleinabrownbag.Inthecourseofafewmiles,however,Idiscoveredthatithadaglazedcapatoneendandapairofmuddyshoesattheotherandfurtherobservationdemonstratedittobeasmallboyinasnuff-colouredcoat,withhisarmsquitepinionedtohissides,bydeepforcingintohispockets.Hewas,Ipresume,arelativeorfriendofthecoachmans,ashelaya-topoftheluggagewithhisfacetowardstherain;andexceptwhenachangeofpositionbroughthisshoesincontactwithmyhat,heappearedtobeasleep.Atlast,onsomeoccasionofourstopping,thisthingslowlyupreareditselftotheheightofthreefeetsix,andfixingitseyesonme,observedinpipingaccents,withacomplaisantyawn,halfquenchedinanobligingairoffriendlypatronage,Wellnow,stranger,IguessyoufindthisamostlikeanEnglisharternoon,hey?

Thescenery,whichhadbeentameenoughatfirst,was,forthelasttenortwelvemiles,beautiful.OurroadwoundthroughthepleasantvalleyoftheSusquehanna;theriver,dottedwithinnumerablegreenislands,layuponourright;andontheleft,asteepascent,craggywithbrokenrock,anddarkwithpinetrees.Themist,wreathingitselfintoahundredfantasticshapes,movedsolemnlyuponthewater;andthegloomofeveninggavetoallanairofmysteryandsilencewhichgreatlyenhanceditsnaturalinterest.

Wecrossedthisriverbyawoodenbridge,roofedandcoveredinonallsides,andnearlyamileinlength.Itwasprofoundlydark;perplexed,withgreatbeams,crossingandrecrossingitateverypossibleangle;andthroughthebroadchinksandcrevicesinthefloor,therapidrivergleamed,fardownbelow,likealegionofeyes.Wehadnolamps;andasthehorsesstumbledandflounderedthrought

hisplace,towardsthedistantspeckofdyinglight,itseemedinterminable.Ireallycouldnotatfirstpersuademyselfaswerumbledheavilyon,fillingthebridgewithhollownoises,andIhelddownmyheadtosaveitfromtheraftersabove,butthatIwasinapainfuldream;forIhaveoftendreamedoftoilingthroughsuchplaces,andasoftenargued,evenatthetime,thiscannotbereality.

Atlength,however,weemergeduponthestreetsofHarrisburg,whosefeeblelights,reflecteddismallyfromthewetground,didnotshineoutuponaverycheerfulcity.Weweresoonestablishedinasnughotel,whichthoughsmallerandfarlesssplendidthanmanyweputupat,itraisedabovethemallinmyremembrance



,byhavingforitslandlordthemostobliging,considerate,andgentlemanlypersonIeverhadtodealwith.

Aswewerenottoproceeduponourjourneyuntiltheafternoon,Iwalkedout,afterbreakfastthenextmorning,tolookaboutme;andwasdulyshownamodelprisononthesolitarysystem,justerected,andasyetwithoutaninmate;thetrunkofanoldtreetowhichHarris,thefirstsettlerhere(afterwardsburiedunderit),wastiedbyhostileIndians,withhisfuneralpileabouthim,whenhewassavedbythetimelyappearanceofafriendlypartyontheoppositeshoreoftheriver;thelocallegislature(fortherewasanotherofthosebodieshereagain,infulldebate);andtheothercuriositiesofthetown.

IwasverymuchinterestedinlookingoveranumberoftreatiesmadefromtimetotimewiththepoorIndians,signedbythedifferentchiefsattheperiodoftheirratification,andpreservedintheofficeoftheSecretarytotheCommonwealth.Thesesignatures,tracedofcoursebytheirownhands,areroughdrawingsofthecreaturesorweaponstheywerecalledafter.Thus,theGreatTurtlemakesacrookedpen-and-inkoutlineofagreatturtle;theBuffalosketchesabuffalo;theWarHatchetsetsaroughimageofthatweaponforhismark.SowiththeArrow,theFish,theScalp,theBigCanoe,andallofthem.

IcouldnotbutthinkasIlookedatthesefeebleandtremulousproductionsofhandswhichcoulddrawthelongestarrowtotheheadinastoutelk-hornbow,orsplitabeadorfeatherwitharifle-ballofCrabbesmusingsovertheParishRegi

ster,andtheirregularscratchesmadewithapen,bymenwhowouldploughalengthyfurrowstraightfromendtoend.NorcouldIhelpbestowingmanysorrowfulthoughtsuponthesimplewarriorswhosehandsandheartsweresetthere,inalltruthandhonesty;andwhoonlylearnedincourseoftimefromwhitemenhowtobreaktheirfaith,andquibbleoutofformsandbonds.Iwonder,too,howmanytimesthecredulousBigTurtle,ortrustingLittleHatchet,hadputhismarktotreatieswhichwerefalselyreadtohim;andhadsignedaway,heknewnotwhat,untilitwentandcasthimlooseuponthenewpossessorsoftheland,asavageindeed.

Ourhostannounced,beforeourearlydinner,thatsomemembersofthelegislativebodyproposedtodousthehonourofcalling.Hehadkindlyyieldeduptoushiswifesownlittleparlour,andwhenIbeggedthathewouldshowthemin,Isaw

himlookwithpainfulapprehensionatitsprettycarpet;though,beingotherwiseoccupiedatthetime,thecauseofhisuneasinessdidnotoccurtome.

Itcertainlywouldhavebeenmorepleasanttoallpartiesconcerned,andwouldnot,Ithink,havecompromisedtheirindependenceinanymaterialdegree,ifsomeofthesegentlemenhadnotonlyyieldedtotheprejudiceinfavourofspittoons,buthadabandonedthemselves,forthemoment,eventotheconventionalabsurdityofpocket-handkerchiefs.

Itstillcontinuedtorainheavily,andwhenwewentdowntotheCanalBoat(forthatwasthemodeofconveyancebywhichweweretoproceed)afterdinner,theweatherwasasunpromisingandobstinatelywetasonewoulddesiretosee.Norwasthesightofthiscanalboat,inwhichweweretospendthreeorfourdays,b

yanymeansacheerfulone;asitinvolvedsomeuneasyspeculationsconcerningthedisposalofthepassengersatnight,andopenedawidefieldofinquirytouchingtheotherdomesticarrangementsoftheestablishment,whichwassufficientlydisconcerting.

However,thereitwasabargewithalittlehouseinit,viewedfromtheoutside;andacaravanatafair,viewedfromwithin:thegentlemenbeingaccommodated,asthespectatorsusuallyare,inoneofthoselocomotivemuseumsofpennywonders;andtheladiesbeingpartitionedoffbyaredcurtain,afterthemannerofthedwarfsandgiantsinthesameestablishments,whoseprivatelivesarepassed



inrathercloseexclusiveness.

Wesathere,lookingsilentlyattherowoflittletables,whichextendeddownbothsidesofthecabin,andlisteningtotherainasitdrippedandpatteredontheboat,andplashedwithadismalmerrimentinthewater,untilthearrivaloftherailwaytrain,forwhosefinalcontributiontoourstockofpassengers,ourdeparturewasalonedeferred.Itbroughtagreatmanyboxes,whichwerebumpedandtossedupontheroof,almostaspainfullyasiftheyhadbeendepositedononesownhead,withouttheinterventionofaportersknot;andseveraldampgentlemen,whoseclothes,ontheirdrawingroundthestove,begantosteamagain.Nodoubtitwouldhavebeenathoughtmorecomfortableifthedrivingrain,whichnowpoureddownmoresoakinglythanever,hadadmittedofawindowbeingopened,orifournumberhadbeensomethinglessthanthirty;buttherewasscarcelytimetothinkasmuch,whenatrainofthreehorseswasattachedtothetow-rope,theboyupontheleadersmackedhiswhip,theruddercreakedandgroanedcomplainingly,andwehadbegunourjourney.

ChapterXSomeFurtherAccountoftheCanalBoat,itsDomesticEconomy,anditsPassengers.JourneytoPittsburgAcrosstheAlleghanyMountains.Pittsburg

ASitcontinuedtorainmostperseveringly,weallremainedbelow:thedampgentlemenroundthestove,graduallybecomingmildewedbytheactionofthefire;andthedrygentlemenlyingatfulllengthupontheseats,orslumberinguneasily

withtheirfacesonthetables,orwalkingupanddownthecabin,whichitwasbarelypossibleforamanofthemiddleheighttodo,withoutmakingbaldplacesonhisheadbyscrapingitagainsttheroof.Ataboutsixoclock,allthesmalltableswereputtogethertoformonelongtable,andeverybodysatdowntotea,coffee,bread,butter,salmon,shad,liver,steaks,potatoes,pickles,ham,chops,black-puddings,andsausages.

Willyoutry,saidmyoppositeneighbour,handingmeadishofpotatoes,brokenupinmilkandbutter,willyoutrysomeofthesefixings?

Therearefewwordswhichperformsuchvariousdutiesasthiswordfix.ItistheCalebQuotemoftheAmericanvocabulary.Youcalluponagentlemaninacountrytown,andhishelpinformsyouthatheisfixinghimselfjustnow,butwillbedow

ndirectly:bywhichyouaretounderstandthatheisdressing.Youinquire,onboardasteamboat,ofafellow-passenger,whetherbreakfastwillbereadysoon,andhetellsyouheshouldthinkso,forwhenhewaslastbelow,theywerefixingthetables:inotherwords,layingthecloth.Youbegaportertocollectyourluggage,andheentreatsyounottobeuneasy,forhellfixitpresently:andifyoucomplainofindisposition,youareadvisedtohaverecoursetoDoctorSo-and-so,whowillfixyouinnotime.

Onenight,IorderedabottleofmulledwineatanhotelwhereIwasstaying,andwaitedalongtimeforit;atlengthitwasputuponthetablewithanapologyfromthelandlordthathefeareditwasntfixedproperly.AndIrecollectonce,atastage-coachdinner,overhearingaverysterngentlemandemandofawaiterwhopresentedhimwithaplateofunderdoneroast-beef,whetherhecalledTHAT,fixi

ngGodAmightysvittles?

Thereisnodoubtthatthemeal,atwhichtheinvitationwastenderedtomewhichhasoccasionedthisdigression,wasdisposedofsomewhatravenously;andthatthegentlementhrustthebroad-bladedknivesandthetwo-prongedforksfurtherdowntheirthroatsthanIeversawthesameweaponsgobefore,exceptinthehandsofaskilfuljuggler:butnomansatdownuntiltheladieswereseated;oromittedanylittleactofpolitenesswhichcouldcontributetotheircomfort.NordidIeveronce,onanyoccasion,anywhere,duringmyramblesinAmerica,seeawomanexposedtotheslightestactofrudeness,incivility,oreveninattention.



Bythetimethemealwasover,therain,whichseemedtohavewornitselfoutbycomingdownsofast,wasnearlyovertoo;anditbecamefeasibletogoondeck:whichwasagreatrelief,notwithstandingitsbeingaverysmalldeck,andbeingrenderedstillsmallerbytheluggage,whichwasheapedtogetherinthemiddleunderatarpaulincovering;leaving,oneitherside,apathsonarrow,thatitbecameasciencetowalktoandfrowithouttumblingoverboardintothecanal.Itwassomewhatembarrassingatfirst,too,tohavetoducknimblyeveryfiveminuteswheneverthemanatthehelmcriedBridge!andsometimes,whenthecrywasLowBridge,toliedownnearlyflat.Butcustomfamiliarisesonetoanything,andthereweresomanybridgesthatittookaveryshorttimetogetusedtothis.

Asnightcameon,andwedrewinsightofthefirstrangeofhills,whicharetheoutpostsoftheAlleghanyMountains,thescenery,whichhadbeenuninterestinghitherto,becamemoreboldandstriking.Thewetgroundreekedandsmoked,aftertheheavyfallofrain,andthecroakingofthefrogs(whosenoiseinthesepartsisalmostincredible)soundedasthoughamillionoffairyteamswithbellsweretravellingthroughtheair,andkeepingpacewithus.Thenightwascloudyyet,butmoonlighttoo:andwhenwecrossedtheSusquehannariveroverwhichthereisanextraordinarywoodenbridgewithtwogalleries,oneabovetheother,sothateventhere,twoboatteamsmeeting,maypasswithoutconfusionitwaswildandgrand.

Ihavementionedmyhavingbeeninsomeuncertaintyanddoubt,atfirst,relativ

etothesleepingarrangementsonboardthisboat.Iremainedinthesamevaguestateofminduntiltenoclockorthereabouts,whengoingbelow,Ifoundsuspendedoneithersideofthecabin,threelongtiersofhangingbookshelves,designedapparentlyforvolumesofthesmalloctavosize.Lookingwithgreaterattentionatthesecontrivances(wonderingtofindsuchliterarypreparationsinsuchaplace),Idescriedoneachshelfasortofmicroscopicsheetandblanket;thenIbegandimlytocomprehendthatthepassengerswerethelibrary,andthattheyweretobearranged,edge-wise,ontheseshelves,tillmorning.

Iwasassistedtothisconclusionbyseeingsomeofthemgatheredroundthemasteroftheboat,atoneofthetables,drawinglotswithalltheanxietiesandpassionsofgamestersdepictedintheircountenances;whileothers,withsmallpiecesofcardboardintheirhands,weregropingamongtheshelvesinsearchofnum

berscorrespondingwiththosetheyhaddrawn.Assoonasanygentlemanfoundhisnumber,hetookpossessionofitbyimmediatelyundressinghimselfandcrawlingintobed.Therapiditywithwhichanagitatedgamblersubsidedintoasnoringslumberer,wasoneofthemostsingulareffectsIhaveeverwitnessed.Astotheladies,theywerealreadyabed,behindtheredcurtain,whichwascarefullydrawnandpinnedupthecentre;thoughaseverycough,orsneeze,orwhisper,behindthiscurtain,wasperfectlyaudiblebeforeit,wehadstillalivelyconsciousnessoftheirsociety.

Thepolitenessofthepersoninauthorityhadsecuredtomeashelfinanooknearthisredcurtain,insomedegreeremovedfromthegreatbodyofsleepers:towhichplaceIretired,withmanyacknowledgmentstohimforhisattention.Ifoundit,onafter-measurement,justthewidthofanordinarysheetofBathpostle

tter-paper;andIwasatfirstinsomeuncertaintyastothebestmeansofgettingintoit.Buttheshelfbeingabottomone,Ifinallydeterminedonlyinguponthefloor,rollinggentlyin,stoppingimmediatelyItouchedthemattress,andremainingforthenightwiththatsideuppermost,whateveritmightbe.Luckily,Icameuponmybackatexactlytherightmoment.Iwasmuchalarmedonlookingupward,tosee,bytheshapeofhishalf-yardofsacking(whichhisweighthadbentintoanexceedinglytightbag),thattherewasaveryheavygentlemanaboveme,whomtheslendercordsseemedquiteincapableofholding;andIcouldnothelpreflectinguponthegriefofmywifeandfamilyintheeventofhiscomingdowninthenight.ButasIcouldnothavegotupagainwithoutaseverebodilyst



ruggle,whichmighthavealarmedtheladies;andasIhadnowheretogoto,evenifIhad;Ishutmyeyesuponthedanger,andremainedthere.

Oneoftworemarkablecircumstancesisindisputablyafact,withreferencetothatclassofsocietywhotravelintheseboats.Eithertheycarrytheirrestlessnesstosuchapitchthattheyneversleepatall;ortheyexpectorateindreams,whichwouldbearemarkableminglingoftherealandideal.Allnightlong,andeverynight,onthiscanal,therewasaperfectstormandtempestofspitting;andoncemycoat,beingintheverycentreofthehurricanesustainedbyfivegentlemen(whichmovedvertically,strictlycarryingoutReidsTheoryoftheLawofStorms),Iwasfainthenextmorningtolayitonthedeck,andrubitdownwithfairwaterbeforeitwasinaconditiontobewornagain.

Betweenfiveandsixoclockinthemorningwegotup,andsomeofuswentondeck,togivethemanopportunityoftakingtheshelvesdown;whileothers,themorningbeingverycold,crowdedroundtherustystove,cherishingthenewlykindledfire,andfillingthegratewiththosevoluntarycontributionsofwhichtheyhadbeensoliberalallnight.Thewashingaccommodationswereprimitive.Therewasatinladlechainedtothedeck,withwhicheverygentlemanwhothoughtitnecessarytocleansehimself(manyweresuperiortothisweakness),fishedthedirtywateroutofthecanal,andpoureditintoatinbasin,securedinlikemanner.Therewasalsoajack-towel.And,hangingupbeforealittlelooking-glassinthebar,intheimmediatevicinityofthebreadandcheeseandbiscuits,wereapubliccombandhair-brush.

Ateightoclock,theshelvesbeingtakendownandputawayandthetablesjoinedtogether,everybodysatdowntothetea,coffee,bread,butter,salmon,shad,liver,steak,potatoes,pickles,ham,chops,black-puddings,andsausages,alloveragain.Somewerefondofcompoundingthisvariety,andhavingitallontheirplatesatonce.Aseachgentlemangotthroughhisownpersonalamountoftea,coffee,bread,butter,salmon,shad,liver,steak,potatoes,pickles,ham,chops,black-puddings,andsausages,heroseupandwalkedoff.Wheneverybodyhaddonewitheverything,thefragmentswereclearedaway:andoneofthewaitersappearinganewinthecharacterofabarber,shavedsuchofthecompanyasdesiredtobeshaved;whiletheremainderlookedon,oryawnedovertheirnewspapers.Dinnerwasbreakfastagain,withouttheteaandcoffee;andsupperandbreakfastwereidentical.

Therewasamanonboardthisboat,withalightfresh-colouredface,andapepper-and-saltsuitofclothes,whowasthemostinquisitivefellowthatcanpossiblybeimagined.Heneverspokeotherwisethaninterrogatively.Hewasanembodiedinquiry.Sittingdownorstandingup,stillormoving,walkingthedeckortakinghismeals,therehewas,withagreatnoteofinterrogationineacheye,twoinhiscockedears,twomoreinhisturned-upnoseandchin,atleasthalfadozenmoreaboutthecornersofhismouth,andthelargestoneofallinhishair,whichwasbrushedpertlyoffhisforeheadinaflaxenclump.Everybuttoninhisclothessaid,Eh?Whatsthat?Didyouspeak?Saythatagain,willyou?Hewasalwayswideawake,liketheenchantedbridewhodroveherhusbandfrantic;alwaysrestless;alwaysthirstingforanswers;perpetuallyseekingandneverfinding.Thereneverwassuchacuriousman.

Iworeafurgreat-coatatthattime,andbeforewewerewellclearofthewharf,hequestionedmeconcerningit,anditsprice,andwhereIboughtit,andwhen,andwhatfuritwas,andwhatitweighed,andwhatitcost.Thenhetooknoticeofmywatch,andaskedmewhatTHATcost,andwhetheritwasaFrenchwatch,andwhereIgotit,andhowIgotit,andwhetherIboughtitorhaditgivenme,andhowitwent,andwherethekey-holewas,andwhenIwoundit,everynightoreverymorning,andwhetherIeverforgottowinditatall,andifIdid,whatthen?WherehadIbeentolast,andwherewasIgoingnext,andwherewasIgoingafterthat,andhadIseenthePresident,andwhatdidhesay,andwhatdidI



say,andwhatdidhesaywhenIhadsaidthat?Eh?Lornow!dotell!

Findingthatnothingwouldsatisfyhim,Ievadedhisquestionsafterthefirstscoreortwo,andinparticularpleadedignorancerespectingthenameofthefurwhereofthecoatwasmade.Iamunabletosaywhetherthiswasthereason,butthatcoatfascinatedhimafterwards;heusuallykeptclosebehindmeasIwalked,andmovedasImoved,thathemightlookatitthebetter;andhefrequentlydivedintonarrowplacesaftermeattheriskofhislife,thathemighthavethesatisfactionofpassinghishanduptheback,andrubbingitthewrongway.

Wehadanotheroddspecimenonboard,ofadifferentkind.Thiswasathin-faced,spare-figuredmanofmiddleageandstature,dressedinadustydrabbish-colouredsuit,suchasIneversawbefore.Hewasperfectlyquietduringthefirstpartofthejourney:indeedIdontrememberhavingsomuchasseenhimuntilhewasbroughtoutbycircumstances,asgreatmenoftenare.Theconjunctionofeventswhichmadehimfamous,happened,briefly,thus.

Thecanalextendstothefootofthemountain,andthere,ofcourse,itstops;thepassengersbeingconveyedacrossitbylandcarriage,andtakenonafterwardsbyanothercanalboat,thecounterpartofthefirst,whichawaitsthemontheotherside.Therearetwocanallinesofpassage-boats;oneiscalledTheExpress,andone(acheaperone)ThePioneer.ThePioneergetsfirsttothemountain,andwaitsfortheExpresspeopletocomeup;bothsetsofpassengersbeingconveyedacrossitatthesametime.WeweretheExpresscompany;butwhenwehadcros

sedthemountain,andhadcometothesecondboat,theproprietorstookitintotheirbeadstodraftallthePioneersintoitlikewise,sothatwewerefive-and-fortyatleast,andtheaccessionofpassengerswasnotatallofthatkindwhichimprovedtheprospectofsleepingatnight.Ourpeoplegrumbledatthis,aspeopledoinsuchcases;butsufferedtheboattobetowedoffwiththewholefreightaboardnevertheless;andawaywewentdownthecanal.Athome,Ishouldhaveprotestedlustily,butbeingaforeignerhere,Iheldmypeace.Notsothispassenger.Hecleftapathamongthepeopleondeck(wewerenearlyallondeck),andwithoutaddressinganybodywhomsoever,soliloquisedasfollows:

ThismaysuitYOU,thismay,butitdontsuitME.ThismaybeallverywellwithDownEasters,andmenofBostonraising,butitwontsuitmyfigurenohow;andnotwowaysaboutTHAT;andsoItellyou.Now!ImfromthebrownforestsofMississ

ippi,Iam,andwhenthesunshinesonme,itdoesshinealittle.ItdontglimmerwhereIlive,thesundont.No.Imabrownforester,Iam.IantaJohnnyCake.TherearenosmoothskinswhereIlive.Wereroughmenthere.Rather.IfDownEastersandmenofBostonraisinglikethis,Imgladofit,butImnoneofthatraisingnorofthatbreed.No.Thiscompanywantsalittlefixing,ITdoes.Imthewrongsortofmanforem,Iam.Theywontlikeme,THEYwont.Thisispilingofitup,alittletoomountainous,thisis.Attheendofeveryoneoftheseshortsentencesheturneduponhisheel,andwalkedtheotherway;checkinghimselfabruptlywhenhehadfinishedanothershortsentence,andturningbackagain.

Itisimpossibleformetosaywhatterrificmeaningwashiddeninthewordsofthisbrownforester,butIknowthattheotherpassengerslookedoninasortofadmiringhorror,andthatpresentlytheboatwasputbacktothewharf,andas

manyofthePioneersascouldbecoaxedorbulliedintogoingaway,weregotridof.

Whenwestartedagain,someoftheboldestspiritsonboard,madeboldtosaytotheobviousoccasionofthisimprovementinourprospects,Muchobligedtoyou,sir;whereuntothebrownforester(wavinghishand,andstillwalkingupanddownasbefore),replied,Noyouant.Yourenoneomyraising.Youmayactforyourselvs,YOUmay.Ihavepintedouttheway.DownEastersandJohnnyCakescanfollowiftheyplease.IantaJohnnyCake,Iant.IamfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi,Iamandsoon,asbefore.Hewasunanimouslyvotedoneofthetablesf



orhisbedatnightthereisagreatcontestforthetablesinconsiderationforhispublicservices:andhehadthewarmestcornerbythestovethroughouttherestofthejourney.ButInevercouldfindoutthathedidanythingexceptsitthere;nordidIhearhimspeakagainuntil,inthemidstofthebustleandturmoilofgettingtheluggageashoreinthedarkatPittsburg,Istumbledoverhimashesatsmokingacigaronthecabinsteps,andheardhimmutteringtohimself,withashortlaughofdefiance,IantaJohnnyCake,Iant.ImfromthebrownfstsoftheMississippi,Iam,damme!Iaminclinedtoarguefromthis,thathehadneverleftoffsayingso;butIcouldnotmakeanaffidavitofthatpartofthestory,ifrequiredtodosobymyQueenandCountry.

AswehavenotreachedPittsburgyet,however,intheorderofournarrative,Imaygoontoremarkthatbreakfastwasperhapstheleastdesirablemealoftheday,asinadditiontothemanysavouryodoursarisingfromtheeatablesalreadymentioned,therewerewhiffsofgin,whiskey,brandy,andrum,fromthelittlebarhardby,andadecidedseasoningofstaletobacco.Manyofthegentlemenpassengerswerefarfromparticularinrespectoftheirlinen,whichwasinsomecasesasyellowasthelittlerivuletsthathadtrickledfromthecornersoftheirmouthsinchewing,anddriedthere.Norwastheatmospherequitefreefromzephyrwhisperingsofthethirtybedswhichhadjustbeenclearedaway,andofwhichwewerefurtherandmorepressinglyremindedbytheoccasionalappearanceonthetable-clothofakindofGame,notmentionedintheBillofFare.

Andyetdespitetheseodditiesandeventheyhad,formeatleast,ahumouroft

heirowntherewasmuchinthismodeoftravellingwhichIheartilyenjoyedatthetime,andlookbackuponwithgreatpleasure.Eventherunningup,bare-necked,atfiveoclockinthemorning,fromthetaintedcabintothedirtydeck;scoopinguptheicywater,plungingonesheadintoit,anddrawingitout,allfreshandglowingwiththecold;wasagoodthing.Thefast,briskwalkuponthetowing-path,betweenthattimeandbreakfast,wheneveryveinandarteryseemedtotinglewithhealth;theexquisitebeautyoftheopeningday,whenlightcamegleamingofffromeverything;thelazymotionoftheboat,whenonelayidlyonthedeck,lookingthrough,ratherthanat,thedeepbluesky;theglidingonatnight,sonoiselessly,pastfrowninghills,sullenwithdarktrees,andsometimesangryinonered,burningspothighup,whereunseenmenlaycrouchingroundafire;theshiningoutofthebrightstarsundisturbedbynoiseofwheelsorsteam,oranyothersoundthanthelimpidripplingofthewaterastheboatwenton:all

thesewerepuredelights.

Thentherewerenewsettlementsanddetachedlog-cabinsandframe-houses,fullofinterestforstrangersfromanoldcountry:cabinswithsimpleovens,outside,madeofclay;andlodgingsforthepigsnearlyasgoodasmanyofthehumanquarters;brokenwindows,patchedwithworn-outhats,oldclothes,oldboards,fragmentsofblanketsandpaper;andhome-madedressersstandingintheopenairwithoutthedoor,whereonwasrangedthehouseholdstore,nothardtocount,ofearthenjarsandpots.Theeyewaspainedtoseethestumpsofgreattreesthicklystrewnineveryfieldofwheat,andseldomtolosetheeternalswampanddullmorass,withhundredsofrottentrunksandtwistedbranchessteepedinitsunwholesomewater.Itwasquitesadandoppressive,tocomeupongreattractswheresettlershadbeenburningdownthetrees,andwheretheirwoundedbodieslayabout,

likethoseofmurderedcreatures,whilehereandtheresomecharredandblackenedgiantrearedalofttwowitheredarms,andseemedtocalldowncursesonhisfoes.Sometimes,atnight,thewaywoundthroughsomelonelygorge,likeamountainpassinScotland,shiningandcoldlyglitteringinthelightofthemoon,andsoclosedinbyhighsteephillsallround,thatthereseemedtobenoegresssavethroughthenarrowerpathbywhichwehadcome,untiloneruggedhill-sideseemedtoopen,andshuttingoutthemoonlightaswepassedintoitsgloomythroat,wrappedournewcourseinshadeanddarkness.

WehadleftHarrisburgonFriday.OnSundaymorningwearrivedatthefootofth



emountain,whichiscrossedbyrailroad.Thereareteninclinedplanes;fiveascending,andfivedescending;thecarriagesaredraggeduptheformer,andletslowlydownthelatter,bymeansofstationaryengines;thecomparativelylevelspacesbetween,beingtraversed,sometimesbyhorse,andsometimesbyenginepower,asthecasedemands.Occasionallytherailsarelaidupontheextremevergeofagiddyprecipice;andlookingfromthecarriagewindow,thetravellergazessheerdown,withoutastoneorscrapoffencebetween,intothemountaindepthsbelow.Thejourneyisverycarefullymade,however;onlytwocarriagestravellingtogether;andwhileproperprecautionsaretaken,isnottobedreadedforitsdangers.

Itwasveryprettytravellingthus,atarapidpacealongtheheightsofthemountaininakeenwind,tolookdownintoavalleyfulloflightandsoftness;catchingglimpses,throughthetree-tops,ofscatteredcabins;childrenrunningtothedoors;dogsburstingouttobark,whomwecouldseewithouthearing:terrifiedpigsscamperinghomewards;familiessittingoutintheirrudegardens;cowsgazingupwardwithastupidindifference;menintheirshirt-sleeveslookingonattheirunfinishedhouses,planningoutto-morrowswork;andweridingonward,highabovethem,likeawhirlwind.Itwasamusing,too,whenwehaddined,andrattleddownasteeppass,havingnoothermovingpowerthantheweightofthecarriagesthemselves,toseetheenginereleased,longafterus,comebuzzingdownalone,likeagreatinsect,itsbackofgreenandgoldsoshininginthesun,thatifithadspreadapairofwingsandsoaredaway,noonewouldhavehadoccasion,asIfancied,fortheleastsurprise.Butitstoppedshortofusinaveryb

usiness-likemannerwhenwereachedthecanal:and,beforeweleftthewharf,wentpantingupthishillagain,withthepassengerswhohadwaitedourarrivalforthemeansoftraversingtheroadbywhichwehadcome.

OntheMondayevening,furnacefiresandclankinghammersonthebanksofthecanal,warnedusthatweapproachedtheterminationofthispartofourjourney.AftergoingthroughanotherdreamyplacealongaqueductacrosstheAlleghanyRiver,whichwasstrangerthanthebridgeatHarrisburg,beingavast,low,woodenchamberfullofwaterweemergeduponthatuglyconfusionofbacksofbuildingsandcrazygalleriesandstairs,whichalwaysabutsonwater,whetheritberiver,sea,canal,orditch:andwereatPittsburg.

PittsburgislikeBirminghaminEngland;atleastitstownspeoplesayso.Settin

gasidethestreets,theshops,thehouses,waggons,factories,publicbuildings,andpopulation,perhapsitmaybe.Itcertainlyhasagreatquantityofsmokehangingaboutit,andisfamousforitsiron-works.BesidestheprisontowhichIhavealreadyreferred,thistowncontainsaprettyarsenalandotherinstitutions.ItisverybeautifullysituatedontheAlleghanyRiver,overwhichtherearetwobridges;andthevillasofthewealthiercitizenssprinkledaboutthehighgroundsintheneighbourhood,areprettyenough.Welodgedatamostexcellenthotel,andwereadmirablyserved.Asusualitwasfullofboarders,wasverylarge,andhadabroadcolonnadetoeverystoryofthehouse.

Wetarriedherethreedays.OurnextpointwasCincinnati:andasthiswasasteamboatjourney,andwesternsteamboatsusuallyblowuponeortwoaweekintheseason,itwasadvisabletocollectopinionsinreferencetothecomparativesaf

etyofthevesselsboundthatway,thenlyingintheriver.OnecalledtheMessengerwasthebestrecommended.Shehadbeenadvertisedtostartpositively,everydayforafortnightorso,andhadnotgoneyet,nordidhercaptainseemtohaveanyveryfixedintentiononthesubject.Butthisisthecustom:forifthelawweretobinddownafreeandindependentcitizentokeephiswordwiththepublic,whatwouldbecomeofthelibertyofthesubject?Besides,itisinthewayoftrade.Andifpassengersbedecoyedinthewayoftrade,andpeoplebeinconveniencedinthewayoftrade,whatman,whoisasharptradesmanhimself,shallsay,Wemustputastoptothis?



Impressedbythedeepsolemnityofthepublicannouncement,I(beingthenignorantoftheseusages)wasforhurryingonboardinabreathlessstate,immediately;butreceivingprivateandconfidentialinformationthattheboatwouldcertainlynotstartuntilFriday,ApriltheFirst,wemadeourselvesverycomfortableinthemeanwhile,andwentonboardatnoonthatday.

ChapterXIFromPittsburgtoCincinnatiinaWesternSteamboat.Cincinnati

THEMessengerwasoneamongacrowdofhigh-pressuresteamboats,clusteredtogetherbyawharf-side,which,lookeddownuponfromtherisinggroundthatformsthelanding-place,andbackedbytheloftybankontheoppositesideoftheriver,appearednolargerthansomanyfloatingmodels.Shehadsomefortypassengersonboard,exclusiveofthepoorerpersonsonthelowerdeck;andinhalfanhour,orless,proceededonherway.

Wehad,forourselves,atinystate-roomwithtwoberthsinit,openingoutoftheladiescabin.Therewas,undoubtedly,somethingsatisfactoryinthislocation,inasmuchasitwasinthestern,andwehadbeenagreatmanytimesverygravelyrecommendedtokeepasfaraftaspossible,becausethesteamboatsgenerallyblewupforward.Norwasthisanunnecessarycaution,astheoccurrenceandcircumstancesofmorethanonesuchfatalityduringourstaysufficientlytestified.Apartfromthissourceofself-congratulation,itwasanunspeakablerelieftohaveanyplace,nomatterhowconfined,whereonecouldbealone:andastherowofl

ittlechambersofwhichthiswasone,hadeachasecondglass-doorbesidesthatintheladiescabin,whichopenedonanarrowgalleryoutsidethevessel,wheretheotherpassengersseldomcame,andwhereonecouldsitinpeaceandgazeupontheshiftingprospect,wetookpossessionofournewquarterswithmuchpleasure.

IfthenativepacketsIhavealreadydescribedbeunlikeanythingweareinthehabitofseeingonwater,thesewesternvesselsarestillmoreforeigntoalltheideasweareaccustomedtoentertainofboats.Ihardlyknowwhattolikenthemto,orhowtodescribethem.

Inthefirstplace,theyhavenomast,cordage,tackle,rigging,orothersuchboat-likegear;norhavetheyanythingintheirshapeatallcalculatedtoremind

oneofaboatshead,stem,sides,orkeel.Exceptthattheyareinthewater,anddisplayacoupleofpaddle-boxes,theymightbeintended,foranythingthatappearstothecontrary,toperformsomeunknownservice,highanddry,uponamountaintop.Thereisnovisibledeck,even:nothingbutalong,black,uglyroofcoveredwithburnt-outfeatherysparks;abovewhichtowertwoironchimneys,andahoarseescapevalve,andaglasssteerage-house.Then,inorderastheeyedescendstowardsthewater,arethesides,anddoors,andwindowsofthestate-rooms,jumbledasoddlytogetherasthoughtheyformedasmallstreet,builtbythevaryingtastesofadozenmen:thewholeissupportedonbeamsandpillarsrestingonadirtybarge,butafewinchesabovethewatersedge:andinthenarrowspacebetweenthisupperstructureandthisbargesdeck,arethefurnacefiresandmachinery,openatthesidestoeverywindthatblows,andeverystormofrainitdrivesalongitspath.

Passingoneoftheseboatsatnight,andseeingthegreatbodyoffire,exposedasIhavejustdescribed,thatragesandroarsbeneaththefrailpileofpaintedwood:themachinery,notwardedofforguardedinanyway,butdoingitsworkinthemidstofthecrowdofidlersandemigrantsandchildren,whothrongthelowerdeck:underthemanagement,too,ofrecklessmenwhoseacquaintancewithitsmysteriesmayhavebeenofsixmonthsstanding:onefeelsdirectlythatthewonderis,notthatthereshouldbesomanyfatalaccidents,butthatanyjourneyshouldbesafelymade.



Within,thereisonelongnarrowcabin,thewholelengthoftheboat;fromwhichthestate-roomsopen,onbothsides.Asmallportionofitatthesternispartitionedofffortheladies;andthebarisattheoppositeextreme.Thereisalongtabledownthecentre,andateitherendastove.Thewashingapparatusisforward,onthedeck.Itisalittlebetterthanonboardthecanalboat,butnotmuch.Inallmodesoftravelling,theAmericancustoms,withreferencetothemeansofpersonalcleanlinessandwholesomeablution,areextremelynegligentandfilthy;andIstronglyinclinetothebeliefthataconsiderableamountofillnessisreferabletothiscause.

WearetobeonboardtheMessengerthreedays:arrivingatCincinnati(barringaccidents)onMondaymorning.Therearethreemealsaday.Breakfastatseven,dinnerathalf-pasttwelve,supperaboutsix.Ateach,thereareagreatmanysmalldishesandplatesuponthetable,withverylittleinthem;sothatalthoughthereiseveryappearanceofamightyspread,thereisseldomreallymorethanajoint:exceptforthosewhofancyslicesofbeet-root,shredsofdriedbeef,complicatedentanglementsofyellowpickle;maize,Indiancorn,apple-sauce,andpumpkin.

Somepeoplefancyalltheselittledaintiestogether(andsweetpreservesbeside),bywayofrelishtotheirroastpig.Theyaregenerallythosedyspepticladiesandgentlemenwhoeatunheard-ofquantitiesofhotcornbread(almostasgoodforthedigestionasakneadedpin-cushion),forbreakfast,andforsupper.Thosewhodonotobservethiscustom,andwhohelpthemselvesseveraltimesinstead,

usuallysucktheirknivesandforksmeditatively,untiltheyhavedecidedwhattotakenext:thenpullthemoutoftheirmouths:puttheminthedish;helpthemselves;andfalltoworkagain.Atdinner,thereisnothingtodrinkuponthetable,butgreatjugsfullofcoldwater.Nobodysaysanything,atanymeal,toanybody.Allthepassengersareverydismal,andseemtohavetremendoussecretsweighingontheirminds.Thereisnoconversation,nolaughter,nocheerfulness,nosociality,exceptinspitting;andthatisdoneinsilentfellowshiproundthestove,whenthemealisover.Everymansitsdown,dullandlanguid;swallowshisfareasifbreakfasts,dinners,andsuppers,werenecessitiesofnaturenevertobecoupledwithrecreationorenjoyment;andhavingboltedhisfoodinagloomysilence,boltshimself,inthesamestate.Butfortheseanimalobservances,youmightsupposethewholemaleportionofthecompanytobethemelancholyghostsofdepartedbook-keepers,whohadfallendeadatthedesk:suchistheir

wearyairofbusinessandcalculation.Undertakersondutywouldbesprightlybesidethem;andacollationoffuneral-bakedmeats,incomparisonwiththesemeals,wouldbeasparklingfestivity.

Thepeopleareallalike,too.Thereisnodiversityofcharacter.Theytravelaboutonthesameerrands,sayanddothesamethingsinexactlythesamemanner,andfollowinthesamedullcheerlessround.Alldownthelongtable,thereisscarcelyamanwhoisinanythingdifferentfromhisneighbour.Itisquitearelieftohave,sittingopposite,thatlittlegirloffifteenwiththeloquaciouschin:who,todoherjustice,actsuptoit,andfullyidentifiesnatureshandwriting,forofallthesmallchatterboxesthateverinvadedthereposeofdrowsyladiescabin,sheisthefirstandforemost.Thebeautifulgirl,whositsalittlebeyondherfartherdownthetabletheremarriedtheyoungmanwiththedarkwhi

skers,whositsbeyondHER,onlylastmonth.TheyaregoingtosettleintheveryFarWest,wherehehaslivedfouryears,butwhereshehasneverbeen.Theywerebothoverturnedinastage-coachtheotherday(abadomenanywhereelse,whereoverturnsarenotsocommon),andhishead,whichbearsthemarksofarecentwound,isboundupstill.Shewashurttoo,atthesametime,andlayinsensibleforsomedays;brightashereyesare,now.

Furtherdownstill,sitsamanwhoisgoingsomemilesbeyondtheirplaceofdestination,toimproveanewly-discoveredcoppermine.Hecarriesthevillagethatistobewithhim:afewframecottages,andanapparatusforsmeltingthecopper



.Hecarriesitspeopletoo.TheyarepartlyAmericanandpartlyIrish,andherdtogetheronthelowerdeck;wheretheyamusedthemselveslasteveningtillthenightwasprettyfaradvanced,byalternatelyfiringoffpistolsandsinginghymns.

They,andtheveryfewwhohavebeenleftattabletwentyminutes,rise,andgoaway.Wedosotoo;andpassingthroughourlittlestate-room,resumeourseatsinthequietgallerywithout.

Afinebroadriveralways,butinsomepartsmuchwiderthaninothers:andthenthereisusuallyagreenisland,coveredwithtrees,dividingitintotwostreams.Occasionally,westopforafewminutes,maybetotakeinwood,maybeforpassengers,atsomesmalltownorvillage(Ioughttosaycity,everyplaceisacityhere);butthebanksareforthemostpartdeepsolitudes,overgrownwithtrees,which,hereabouts,arealreadyinleafandverygreen.Formiles,andmiles,andmiles,thesesolitudesareunbrokenbyanysignofhumanlifeortraceofhumanfootstep;norisanythingseentomoveaboutthembutthebluejay,whosecolourissobright,andyetsodelicate,thatitlookslikeaflyingflower.Atlengthenedintervalsalogcabin,withitslittlespaceofclearedlandaboutit,nestlesunderarisingground,andsendsitsthreadofbluesmokecurlingupintothesky.Itstandsinthecornerofthepoorfieldofwheat,whichisfullofgreatunsightlystumps,likeearthybutchers-blocks.Sometimesthegroundisonlyjustnowcleared:thefelledtreeslyingyetuponthesoil:andthelog-houseonlythismorningbegun.Aswepassthisclearing,thesettlerleansuponhis

axeorhammer,andlookswistfullyatthepeoplefromtheworld.Thechildrencreepoutofthetemporaryhut,whichislikeagipsytentupontheground,andclaptheirhandsandshout.Thedogonlyglancesroundatus,andthenlooksupintohismastersfaceagain,asifhewererendereduneasybyanysuspensionofthecommonbusiness,andhadnothingmoretodowithpleasurers.Andstillthereisthesame,eternalforeground.Theriverhaswashedawayitsbanks,andstatelytreeshavefallendownintothestream.Somehavebeentheresolong,thattheyaremeredry,grizzlyskeletons.Somehavejusttoppledover,andhavingearthyetabouttheirroots,arebathingtheirgreenheadsintheriver,andputtingforthnewshootsandbranches.Somearealmostslidingdown,asyoulookatthem.Andsomeweredrownedsolongago,thattheirbleachedarmsstartoutfromthemiddleofthecurrent,andseemtotrytograsptheboat,anddragitunderwater.

Throughsuchasceneasthis,theunwieldymachinetakesitshoarse,sullenway:venting,ateveryrevolutionofthepaddles,aloudhigh-pressureblast;enough,onewouldthink,towakenupthehostofIndianswholieburiedinagreatmoundyonder:soold,thatmightyoaksandotherforesttreeshavestrucktheirrootsintoitsearth;andsohigh,thatitisahill,evenamongthehillsthatNatureplantedroundit.Theveryriver,asthoughitsharedonesfeelingsofcompassionfortheextincttribeswholivedsopleasantlyhere,intheirblessedignoranceofwhiteexistence,hundredsofyearsago,stealsoutofitswaytoripplenearthismound:andtherearefewplaceswheretheOhiosparklesmorebrightlythanintheBigGraveCreek.

AllthisIseeasIsitinthelittlestern-gallerymentionedjustnow.Evening

slowlystealsuponthelandscapeandchangesitbeforeme,whenwestoptosetsomeemigrantsashore.

Fivemen,asmanywomen,andalittlegirl.Alltheirworldlygoodsareabag,alargechestandanoldchair:one,old,high-backed,rush-bottomedchair:asolitarysettlerinitself.Theyarerowedashoreintheboat,whilethevesselstandsalittleoffawaitingitsreturn,thewaterbeingshallow.Theyarelandedatthefootofahighbank,onthesummitofwhichareafewlogcabins,attainableonlybyalongwindingpath.Itisgrowingdusk;butthesunisveryred,andshinesinthewaterandonsomeofthetree-tops,likefire.



Themengetoutoftheboatfirst;helpoutthewomen;takeoutthebag,thechest,thechair;bidtherowersgood-bye;andshovetheboatoffforthem.Atthefirstplashoftheoarsinthewater,theoldestwomanofthepartysitsdownintheoldchair,closetothewatersedge,withoutspeakingaword.Noneoftheotherssitdown,thoughthechestislargeenoughformanyseats.Theyallstandwheretheylanded,asifstrickenintostone;andlookaftertheboat.Sotheyremain,quitestillandsilent:theoldwomanandheroldchair,inthecentrethebagandchestupontheshore,withoutanybodyheedingthemalleyesfixedupontheboat.Itcomesalongside,ismadefast,themenjumponboard,theengineisputinmotion,andwegohoarselyonagain.Theretheystandyet,withoutthemotionofahand.Icanseethemthroughmyglass,when,inthedistanceandincreasingdarkness,theyaremerespeckstotheeye:lingeringtherestill:theoldwomanintheoldchair,andalltherestabouther:notstirringintheleastdegree.AndthusIslowlylosethem.

Thenightisdark,andweproceedwithintheshadowofthewoodedbank,whichmakesitdarker.Afterglidingpastthesombremazeofboughsforalongtime,wecomeuponanopenspacewherethetalltreesareburning.Theshapeofeverybranchandtwigisexpressedinadeepredglow,andasthelightwindstirsandrufflesit,theyseemtovegetateinfire.Itissuchasightaswereadofinlegendsofenchantedforests:savingthatitissadtoseethesenobleworkswastingawaysoawfully,alone;andtothinkhowmanyyearsmustcomeandgobeforethemagicthatcreatedthemwillreartheirlikeuponthisgroundagain.Butthet

imewillcome;andwhen,intheirchangedashes,thegrowthofcenturiesunbornhasstruckitsroots,therestlessmenofdistantageswillrepairtotheseagainunpeopledsolitudes;andtheirfellows,incitiesfaraway,thatslumbernow,perhaps,beneaththerollingsea,willreadinlanguagestrangetoanyearsinbeingnow,butveryoldtothem,ofprimevalforestswheretheaxewasneverheard,andwherethejungledgroundwasnevertroddenbyahumanfoot.

Midnightandsleepblotoutthesescenesandthoughts:andwhenthemorningshinesagain,itgildsthehouse-topsofalivelycity,beforewhosebroadpavedwharftheboatismoored;withotherboats,andflags,andmovingwheels,andhumofmenaroundit;asthoughtherewerenotasolitaryorsilentroodofgroundwithinthecompassofathousandmiles.

Cincinnatiisabeautifulcity;cheerful,thriving,andanimated.Ihavenotoftenseenaplacethatcommendsitselfsofavourablyandpleasantlytoastrangeratthefirstglanceasthisdoes:withitscleanhousesofredandwhite,itswell-pavedroads,andfoot-waysofbrighttile.Nordoesitbecomelessprepossessingonacloseracquaintance.Thestreetsarebroadandairy,theshopsextremelygood,theprivateresidencesremarkablefortheireleganceandneatness.Thereissomethingofinventionandfancyinthevaryingstylesoftheselattererections,which,afterthedullcompanyofthesteamboat,isperfectlydelightful,asconveyinganassurancethattherearesuchqualitiesstillinexistence.Thedispositiontoornamenttheseprettyvillasandrenderthemattractive,leadstothecultureoftreesandflowers,andthelayingoutofwell-keptgardens,thesightofwhich,tothosewhowalkalongthestreets,isinexpressiblyrefreshingandagreeable.Iwasquitecharmedwiththeappearanceofthetown,anditsadjo

iningsuburbofMountAuburn:fromwhichthecity,lyinginanamphitheatreofhills,formsapictureofremarkablebeauty,andisseentogreatadvantage.

TherehappenedtobeagreatTemperanceConventionheldhereonthedayafterourarrival;andastheorderofmarchbroughttheprocessionunderthewindowsofthehotelinwhichwelodged,whentheystartedinthemorning,Ihadagoodopportunityofseeingit.Itcomprisedseveralthousandmen;themembersofvariousWashingtonAuxiliaryTemperanceSocieties;andwasmarshalledbyofficersonhorseback,whocanteredbrisklyupanddowntheline,withscarvesandribbonsofbrightcoloursflutteringoutbehindthemgaily.Therewerebandsofmusictoo,a



ndbannersoutofnumber:anditwasafresh,holiday-lookingconcoursealtogether.

IwasparticularlypleasedtoseetheIrishmen,whoformedadistinctsocietyamongthemselves,andmusteredverystrongwiththeirgreenscarves;carryingtheirnationalHarpandtheirPortraitofFatherMathew,highabovethepeoplesheads.Theylookedasjollyandgood-humouredasever;and,working(here)thehardestfortheirlivinganddoinganykindofsturdylabourthatcameintheirway,werethemostindependentfellowsthere,Ithought.

Thebannerswereverywellpainted,andflaunteddownthestreetfamously.Therewasthesmitingoftherock,andthegushingforthofthewaters;andtherewasatemperatemanwithconsiderableofahatchet(asthestandard-bearerwouldprobablyhavesaid),aimingadeadlyblowataserpentwhichwasapparentlyabouttospringuponhimfromthetopofabarrelofspirits.Butthechieffeatureofthispartoftheshowwasahugeallegoricaldevice,borneamongtheship-carpenters,ononesidewhereofthesteamboatAlcoholwasrepresentedburstingherboilerandexplodingwithagreatcrash,whileupontheother,thegoodshipTemperancesailedawaywithafairwind,totheheartscontentofthecaptain,crew,andpassengers.

Aftergoingroundthetown,theprocessionrepairedtoacertainappointedplace,where,astheprintedprogrammesetforth,itwouldbereceivedbythechildrenofthedifferentfreeschools,singingTemperanceSongs.Iwaspreventedfromge

ttingthere,intimetoheartheseLittleWarblers,ortoreportuponthisnovelkindofvocalentertainment:novel,atleast,tome:butIfoundinalargeopenspace,eachsocietygatheredrounditsownbanners,andlisteninginsilentattentiontoitsownorator.Thespeeches,judgingfromthelittleIcouldhearofthem,werecertainlyadaptedtotheoccasion,ashavingthatdegreeofrelationshiptocoldwaterwhichwetblanketsmayclaim:butthemainthingwastheconductandappearanceoftheaudiencethroughouttheday;andthatwasadmirableandfullofpromise.

Cincinnatiishonourablyfamousforitsfreeschools,ofwhichithassomanythatnopersonschildamongitspopulationcan,bypossibility,wantthemeansofeducation,whichareextended,uponanaverage,tofourthousandpupils,annually.Iwasonlypresentinoneoftheseestablishmentsduringthehoursofinstruct

ion.Intheboysdepartment,whichwasfulloflittleurchins(varyingintheirages,Ishouldsay,fromsixyearsoldtotenortwelve),themasterofferedtoinstituteanextemporaryexaminationofthepupilsinalgebra;aproposal,which,asIwasbynomeansconfidentofmyabilitytodetectmistakesinthatscience,Ideclinedwithsomealarm.Inthegirlsschool,readingwasproposed;andasIfelttolerablyequaltothatart,Iexpressedmywillingnesstohearaclass.Booksweredistributedaccordingly,andsomehalf-dozengirlsrelievedeachotherinreadingparagraphsfromEnglishHistory.Butitseemedtobeadrycompilation,infinitelyabovetheirpowers;andwhentheyhadblunderedthroughthreeorfourdrearypassagesconcerningtheTreatyofAmiens,andotherthrillingtopicsofthesamenature(obviouslywithoutcomprehendingtenwords),Iexpressedmyselfquitesatisfied.ItisverypossiblethattheyonlymountedtothisexaltedstaveintheLadderofLearningfortheastonishmentofavisitor;andthatato

thertimestheykeepuponitslowerrounds;butIshouldhavebeenmuchbetterpleasedandsatisfiedifIhadheardthemexercisedinsimplerlessons,whichtheyunderstood.

AsineveryotherplaceIvisited,thejudgeshereweregentlemenofhighcharacterandattainments.Iwasinoneofthecourtsforafewminutes,andfounditlikethosetowhichIhavealreadyreferred.Anuisancecausewastrying;therewerenotmanyspectators;andthewitnesses,counsel,andjury,formedasortoffamilycircle,sufficientlyjocoseandsnug.



ThesocietywithwhichImingled,wasintelligent,courteous,andagreeable.TheinhabitantsofCincinnatiareproudoftheircityasoneofthemostinterestinginAmerica:andwithgoodreason:forbeautifulandthrivingasitisnow,andcontaining,asitdoes,apopulationoffiftythousandsouls,buttwo-and-fiftyyearshavepassedawaysincethegroundonwhichitstands(boughtatthattimeforafewdollars)wasawildwood,anditscitizenswerebutahandfulofdwellersinscatteredloghutsupontheriversshore.

ChapterXIIFromCincinnatitoLouisvilleinAnotherWesternSteamboat;andfromLouisvilletoSt.LouisinAnother.St.Louis

LEAVINGCincinnatiatelevenoclockintheforenoon,weembarkedforLouisvilleinthePikesteamboat,which,carryingthemails,wasapacketofamuchbetterclassthanthatinwhichwehadcomefromPittsburg.Asthispassagedoesnotoccupymorethantwelveorthirteenhours,wearrangedtogoashorethatnight:notcovetingthedistinctionofsleepinginastate-room,whenitwaspossibletosleepanywhereelse.

Therechancedtobeonboardthisboat,inadditiontotheusualdrearycrowdofpassengers,onePitchlynn,achiefoftheChoctawtribeofIndians,whoSENTINHISCARDtome,andwithwhomIhadthepleasureofalongconversation.

HespokeEnglishperfectlywell,thoughhehadnotbeguntolearnthelanguage,

hetoldme,untilhewasayoungmangrown.Hehadreadmanybooks;andScottspoetryappearedtohaveleftastrongimpressiononhismind:especiallytheopeningofTheLadyoftheLake,andthegreatbattlesceneinMarmion,inwhich,nodoubtfromthecongenialityofthesubjectstohisownpursuitsandtastes,hehadgreatinterestanddelight.Heappearedtounderstandcorrectlyallhehadread;andwhateverfictionhadenlistedhissympathyinitsbelief,haddonesokeenlyandearnestly.Imightalmostsayfiercely.Hewasdressedinourordinaryeverydaycostume,whichhungabouthisfinefigureloosely,andwithindifferentgrace.OnmytellinghimthatIregrettednottoseehiminhisownattire,hethrewuphisrightarm,foramoment,asthoughhewerebrandishingsomeheavyweapon,andanswered,asheletitfallagain,thathisracewerelosingmanythingsbesidestheirdress,andwouldsoonbeseenupontheearthnomore:butheworeitathome,headdedproudly.

Hetoldmethathehadbeenawayfromhishome,westoftheMississippi,seventeenmonths:andwasnowreturning.HehadbeenchieflyatWashingtononsomenegotiationspendingbetweenhisTribeandtheGovernment:whichwerenotsettledyet(hesaidinamelancholyway),andhefearedneverwouldbe:forwhatcouldafewpoorIndiansdo,againstsuchwell-skilledmenofbusinessasthewhites?HehadnoloveforWashington;tiredoftownsandcitiesverysoon;andlongedfortheForestandthePrairie.

IaskedhimwhathethoughtofCongress?Heanswered,withasmile,thatitwanteddignity,inanIndianseyes.

Hewouldverymuchlike,hesaid,toseeEnglandbeforehedied;andspokewith

muchinterestaboutthegreatthingstobeseenthere.WhenItoldhimofthatchamberintheBritishMuseumwhereinarepreservedhouseholdmemorialsofaracethatceasedtobe,thousandsofyearsago,hewasveryattentive,anditwasnothardtoseethathehadareferenceinhismindtothegradualfadingawayofhisownpeople.

ThisledustospeakofMr.Catlinsgallery,whichhepraisedhighly:observingthathisownportraitwasamongthecollection,andthatallthelikenesseswereelegant.Mr.Cooper,hesaid,hadpaintedtheRedManwell;andsowouldI,heknew,ifIwouldgohomewithhimandhuntbuffaloes,whichhewasquiteanxiousI



shoulddo.WhenItoldhimthatsupposingIwent,Ishouldnotbeverylikelytodamagethebuffaloesmuch,hetookitasagreatjokeandlaughedheartily.

Hewasaremarkablyhandsomeman;someyearspastforty,Ishouldjudge;withlongblackhair,anaquilinenose,broadcheek-bones,asunburntcomplexion,andaverybright,keen,dark,andpiercingeye.TherewerebuttwentythousandoftheChoctawsleft,hesaid,andtheirnumberwasdecreasingeveryday.Afewofhisbrotherchiefshadbeenobligedtobecomecivilised,andtomakethemselvesacquaintedwithwhatthewhitesknew,foritwastheironlychanceofexistence.Buttheywerenotmany;andtherestwereastheyalwayshadbeen.Hedweltonthis:andsaidseveraltimesthatunlesstheytriedtoassimilatethemselvestotheirconquerors,theymustbesweptawaybeforethestridesofcivilisedsociety.

Whenweshookhandsatparting,ItoldhimhemustcometoEngland,ashelongedtoseethelandsomuch:thatIshouldhopetoseehimthere,oneday:andthatIcouldpromisehimhewouldbewellreceivedandkindlytreated.Hewasevidentlypleasedbythisassurance,thoughherejoinedwithagood-humouredsmileandanarchshakeofhishead,thattheEnglishusedtobeveryfondoftheRedMenwhentheywantedtheirhelp,buthadnotcaredmuchforthem,since.

Hetookhisleave;asstatelyandcompleteagentlemanofNaturesmaking,aseverIbeheld;andmovedamongthepeopleintheboat,anotherkindofbeing.Hesentmealithographedportraitofhimselfsoonafterwards;verylike,thoughscarcelyhandsomeenough;whichIhavecarefullypreservedinmemoryofourbriefacq

uaintance.

Therewasnothingveryinterestinginthesceneryofthisdaysjourney,whichbroughtusatmidnighttoLouisville.WesleptattheGaltHouse;asplendidhotel;andwereashandsomelylodgedasthoughwehadbeeninParis,ratherthanhundredsofmilesbeyondtheAlleghanies.

Thecitypresentingnoobjectsofsufficientinteresttodetainusonourway,weresolvedtoproceednextdaybyanothersteamboat,theFulton,andtojoinit,aboutnoon,atasuburbcalledPortland,whereitwouldbedelayedsometimeinpassingthroughacanal.

Theinterval,afterbreakfast,wedevotedtoridingthroughthetown,whichisr

egularandcheerful:thestreetsbeinglaidoutatrightangles,andplantedwithyoungtrees.Thebuildingsaresmokyandblackened,fromtheuseofbituminouscoal,butanEnglishmaniswellusedtothatappearance,andindisposedtoquarrelwithit.Theredidnotappeartobemuchbusinessstirring;andsomeunfinishedbuildingsandimprovementsseemedtointimatethatthecityhadbeenoverbuiltintheardourofgoing-a-head,andwassufferingunderthere-actionconsequentuponsuchfeverishforcingofitspowers.

OnourwaytoPortland,wepassedaMagistratesoffice,whichamusedme,aslookingfarmorelikeadameschoolthananypoliceestablishment:forthisawfulInstitutionwasnothingbutalittlelazy,good-for-nothingfrontparlour,opentothestreet;whereintwoorthreefigures(Ipresumethemagistrateandhismyrmidons)werebaskinginthesunshine,theveryeffigiesoflanguorandrepose.Itwa

saperfectpictureofjusticeretiredfrombusinessforwantofcustomers;herswordandscalessoldoff;nappingcomfortablywithherlegsuponthetable.

Here,aselsewhereintheseparts,theroadwasperfectlyalivewithpigsofallages;lyingaboutineverydirection,fastasleep.;orgruntingalonginquestofhiddendainties.Ihadalwaysasneakingkindnessfortheseoddanimals,andfoundaconstantsourceofamusement,whenallothersfailed,inwatchingtheirproceedings.Aswewereridingalongthismorning,Iobservedalittleincidentbetweentwoyouthfulpigs,whichwassoveryhumanastobeinexpressiblycomicalandgrotesqueatthetime,thoughIdaresay,intelling,itistameenough.



Oneyounggentleman(averydelicateporkerwithseveralstrawsstickingabouthisnose,betokeningrecentinvestigationsinadung-hill)waswalkingdeliberatelyon,profoundlythinking,whensuddenlyhisbrother,whowaslyinginamiryholeunseenbyhim,roseupimmediatelybeforehisstartledeyes,ghostlywithdampmud.Neverwaspigswholemassofbloodsoturned.Hestartedbackatleastthreefeet,gazedforamoment,andthenshotoffashardashecouldgo:hisexcessivelylittletailvibratingwithspeedandterrorlikeadistractedpendulum.Butbeforehehadgoneveryfar,hebegantoreasonwithhimselfastothenatureofthisfrightfulappearance;andashereasoned,herelaxedhisspeedbygradualdegrees;untilatlasthestopped,andfacedabout.Therewashisbrother,withthemuduponhimglazinginthesun,yetstaringoutoftheverysamehole,perfectlyamazedathisproceedings!Hewasnosoonerassuredofthis;andheassuredhimselfsocarefullythatonemayalmostsayheshadedhiseyeswithhishandtoseethebetter;thanhecamebackataroundtrot,pounceduponhim,andsummarilytookoffapieceofhistail;asacautiontohimtobecarefulwhathewasaboutforthefuture,andnevertoplaytrickswithhisfamilyanymore.

Wefoundthesteamboatinthecanal,waitingfortheslowprocessofgettingthroughthelock,andwentonboard,whereweshortlyafterwardshadanewkindofvisitorinthepersonofacertainKentuckyGiantwhosenameisPorter,andwhoisofthemoderateheightofsevenfeeteightinches,inhisstockings.

Thereneverwasaraceofpeoplewhosocompletelygavethelietohistoryasth

esegiants,orwhomallthechroniclershavesocruellylibelled.Insteadofroaringandravagingabouttheworld,constantlycateringfortheircanniballarders,andperpetuallygoingtomarketinanunlawfulmanner,theyarethemeekestpeopleinanymansacquaintance:ratherincliningtomilkandvegetablediet,andbearinganythingforaquietlife.Sodecidedlyareamiabilityandmildnesstheircharacteristics,thatIconfessIlookuponthatyouthwhodistinguishedhimselfbytheslaughteroftheseinoffensivepersons,asafalse-heartedbrigand,who,pretendingtophilanthropicmotives,wassecretlyinfluencedonlybythewealthstoredupwithintheircastles,andthehopeofplunder.AndIleanthemoretothisopinionfromfindingthateventhehistorianofthoseexploits,withallhispartialityforhishero,isfaintoadmitthattheslaughteredmonstersinquestionwereofaveryinnocentandsimpleturn;extremelyguilelessandreadyofbelief;lendingacredulouseartothemostimprobabletales;sufferingthems

elvestobeeasilyentrappedintopits;andeven(asinthecaseoftheWelshGiant)withanexcessofthehospitablepolitenessofalandlord,rippingthemselvesopen,ratherthanhintatthepossibilityoftheirguestsbeingversedinthevagabondartsofsleight-of-handandhocus-pocus.

TheKentuckyGiantwasbutanotherillustrationofthetruthofthisposition.Hehadaweaknessintheregionoftheknees,andatrustfulnessinhislongface,whichappealedeventofive-feetnineforencouragementandsupport.Hewasonlytwenty-fiveyearsold,hesaid,andhadgrownrecently,forithadbeenfoundnecessarytomakeanadditiontothelegsofhisinexpressibles.Atfifteenhewasashortboy,andinthosedayshisEnglishfatherandhisIrishmotherhadrathersnubbedhim,asbeingtoosmallofstaturetosustainthecreditofthefamily.Headdedthathishealthhadnotbeengood,thoughitwasbetternow;but

shortpeoplearenotwantingwhowhisperthathedrinkstoohard.

Iunderstandhedrivesahackney-coach,thoughhowhedoesit,unlesshestandsonthefootboardbehind,andliesalongtheroofuponhischest,withhischininthebox,itwouldbedifficulttocomprehend.Hebroughthisgunwithhim,asacuriosity.

ChristenedTheLittleRifle,anddisplayedoutsideashop-window,itwouldmakethefortuneofanyretailbusinessinHolborn.Whenhehadshownhimselfandtalkedalittlewhile,hewithdrewwithhispocket-instrument,andwentbobbingdown



thecabin,amongmenofsixfeethighandupwards,likealight-housewalkingamonglamp-posts.

Withinafewminutesafterwards,wewereoutofthecanal,andintheOhioriveragain.

ThearrangementsoftheboatwerelikethoseoftheMessenger,andthepassengerswereofthesameorderofpeople.Wefedatthesametimes,onthesamekindofviands,inthesamedullmanner,andwiththesameobservances.Thecompanyappearedtobeoppressedbythesametremendousconcealments,andhadaslittlecapacityofenjoymentorlight-heartedness.Ineverinmylifedidseesuchlistless,heavydulnessasbroodedoverthesemeals:theveryrecollectionofitweighsmedown,andmakesme,forthemoment,wretched.Readingandwritingonmyknee,inourlittlecabin,Ireallydreadedthecomingofthehourthatsummonedustotable;andwasasgladtoescapefromitagain,asifithadbeenapenanceorapunishment.Healthycheerfulnessandgoodspiritsformingapartofthebanquet,IcouldsoakmycrustsinthefountainwithLeSagesstrollingplayer,andrevelintheirgladenjoyment:butsittingdownwithsomanyfellow-animalstowardoffthirstandhungerasabusiness;toempty,eachcreature,hisYahoostroughasquicklyashecan,andthenslinksullenlyaway;tohavethesesocialsacramentsstrippedofeverythingbutthemeregreedysatisfactionofthenaturalcravings;goessoagainstthegrainwithme,thatIseriouslybelievetherecollectionofthesefuneralfeastswillbeawakingnightmaretomeallmylife.

Therewassomereliefinthisboat,too,whichtherehadnotbeenintheother,forthecaptain(ablunt,good-naturedfellow)hadhishandsomewifewithhim,whowasdisposedtobelivelyandagreeable,aswereafewotherlady-passengerswhohadtheirseatsaboutusatthesameendofthetable.Butnothingcouldhavemadeheadagainstthedepressinginfluenceofthegeneralbody.Therewasamagnetismofdulnessinthemwhichwouldhavebeatendownthemostfacetiouscompanionthattheeartheverknew.Ajestwouldhavebeenacrime,andasmilewouldhavefadedintoagrinninghorror.Suchdeadly,leadenpeople;suchsystematicplodding,weary,insupportableheaviness;suchamassofanimatedindigestioninrespectofallthatwasgenial,jovial,frank,social,orhearty;never,sure,wasbroughttogetherelsewheresincetheworldbegan.

Norwasthescenery,asweapproachedthejunctionoftheOhioandMississippir

ivers,atallinspiritinginitsinfluence.Thetreeswerestuntedintheirgrowth;thebankswerelowandflat;thesettlementsandlogcabinsfewerinnumber:theirinhabitantsmorewanandwretchedthananywehadencounteredyet.Nosongsofbirdswereintheair,nopleasantscents,nomovinglightsandshadowsfromswiftpassingclouds.Hourafterhour,thechangelessglareofthehot,unwinkingsky,shoneuponthesamemonotonousobjects.Hourafterhour,theriverrolledalong,aswearilyandslowlyasthetimeitself.

Atlength,uponthemorningofthethirdday,wearrivedataspotsomuchmoredesolatethananywehadyetbeheld,thattheforlornestplaceswehadpassed,were,incomparisonwithit,fullofinterest.Atthejunctionofthetworivers,ongroundsoflatandlowandmarshy,thatatcertainseasonsoftheyearitisinundatedtothehouse-tops,liesabreeding-placeoffever,ague,anddeath;v

auntedinEnglandasamineofGoldenHope,andspeculatedin,onthefaithofmonstrousrepresentations,tomanypeoplesruin.Adismalswamp,onwhichthehalf-builthousesrotaway:clearedhereandthereforthespaceofafewyards;andteeming,then,withrankunwholesomevegetation,inwhosebalefulshadethewretchedwandererswhoaretemptedhither,droop,anddie,andlaytheirbones;thehatefulMississippicirclingandeddyingbeforeit,andturningoffuponitssoutherncourseaslimymonsterhideoustobehold;ahotbedofdisease,anuglysepulchre,agraveuncheeredbyanygleamofpromise:aplacewithoutonesinglequality,inearthorairorwater,tocommendit:suchisthisdismalCairo.



ButwhatwordsshalldescribetheMississippi,greatfatherofrivers,who(praisebetoHeaven)hasnoyoungchildrenlikehim!Anenormousditch,sometimestwoorthreemileswide,runningliquidmud,sixmilesanhour:itsstrongandfrothycurrentchokedandobstructedeverywherebyhugelogsandwholeforesttrees:nowtwiningthemselvestogetheringreatrafts,fromtheintersticesofwhichasedgy,lazyfoamworksup,tofloatuponthewaterstop;nowrollingpastlikemonstrousbodies,theirtangledrootsshowinglikemattedhair;nowglancingsinglybylikegiantleeches;andnowwrithingroundandroundinthevortexofsomesmallwhirlpool,likewoundedsnakes.Thebankslow,thetreesdwarfish,themarshesswarmingwithfrogs,thewretchedcabinsfewandfarapart,theirinmateshollow-cheekedandpale,theweatherveryhot,mosquitoespenetratingintoeverycrackandcreviceoftheboat,mudandslimeoneverything:nothingpleasantinitsaspect,buttheharmlesslightningwhichflickerseverynightuponthedarkhorizon.

Fortwodayswetoiledupthisfoulstream,strikingconstantlyagainstthefloatingtimber,orstoppingtoavoidthosemoredangerousobstacles,thesnags,orsawyers,whicharethehiddentrunksoftreesthathavetheirrootsbelowthetide.Whenthenightsareverydark,thelook-outstationedintheheadoftheboat,knowsbytherippleofthewaterifanygreatimpedimentbenearathand,andringsabellbesidehim,whichisthesignalfortheenginetobestopped:butalwaysinthenightthisbellhasworktodo,andaftereveryring,therecomesablowwhichrendersitnoeasymattertoremaininbed.

Thedeclineofdayherewasverygorgeous;tingeingthefirmamentdeeplywithredandgold,uptotheverykeystoneofthearchaboveus.Asthesunwentdownbehindthebank,theslightestbladesofgrassuponitseemedtobecomeasdistinctlyvisibleasthearteriesintheskeletonofaleaf;andwhen,asitslowlysank,theredandgoldenbarsuponthewatergrewdimmer,anddimmeryet,asiftheyweresinkingtoo;andalltheglowingcoloursofdepartingdaypaled,inchbyinch,beforethesombrenight;thescenebecameathousandtimesmorelonesomeandmoredrearythanbefore,andallitsinfluencesdarkenedwiththesky.

Wedrankthemuddywaterofthisriverwhilewewereuponit.Itisconsideredwholesomebythenatives,andissomethingmoreopaquethangruel.IhaveseenwaterlikeitattheFilter-shops,butnowhereelse.

OnthefourthnightafterleavingLouisville,wereachedSt.Louis,andhereIwitnessedtheconclusionofanincident,triflingenoughinitself,butverypleasanttosee,whichhadinterestedmeduringthewholejourney.

Therewasalittlewomanonboard,withalittlebaby;andbothlittlewomanandlittlechildwerecheerful,good-looking,bright-eyed,andfairtosee.ThelittlewomanhadbeenpassingalongtimewithhersickmotherinNewYork,andhadleftherhomeinSt.Louis,inthatconditioninwhichladieswhotrulylovetheirlordsdesiretobe.Thebabywasborninhermothershouse;andshehadnotseenherhusband(towhomshewasnowreturning),fortwelvemonths:havinglefthimamonthortwoaftertheirmarriage.

Well,tobesure,thereneverwasalittlewomansofullofhope,andtenderness

,andlove,andanxiety,asthislittlewomanwas:andalldaylongshewonderedwhetherHewouldbeatthewharf;andwhetherHehadgotherletter;andwhether,fshesentthebabyashorebysomebodyelse,Hewouldknowit,meetingitinthestreet:which,seeingthathehadneverseteyesuponitinhislife,wasnotverylikelyintheabstract,butwasprobableenough,totheyoungmother.Shewassuchanartlesslittlecreature;andwasinsuchasunny,beaming,hopefulstate;andletoutallthismatterclingingcloseaboutherheart,sofreely;thatalltheotherladypassengersenteredintothespiritofitasmuchasshe;andthecaptain(whoheardallaboutitfromhiswife)waswondroussly,Ipromiseyou:inquiring,everytimewemetattable,asinforgetfulness,whethersheexpect



edanybodytomeetheratSt.Louis,andwhethershewouldwanttogoashorethenightwereachedit(buthesupposedshewouldnt),andcuttingmanyotherdryjokesofthatnature.Therewasonelittleweazen,dried-apple-facedoldwoman,whotookoccasiontodoubttheconstancyofhusbandsinsuchcircumstancesofbereavement;andtherewasanotherlady(withalap-dog)oldenoughtomoralizeonthelightnessofhumanaffections,andyetnotsooldthatshecouldhelpnursingthebaby,nowandthen,orlaughingwiththerest,whenthelittlewomancalleditbyitsfathersname,andaskeditallmanneroffantasticquestionsconcerninghiminthejoyofherheart.

Itwassomethingofablowtothelittlewoman,thatwhenwewerewithintwentymilesofourdestination,itbecameclearlynecessarytoputthisbabytobed.Butshegotoveritwiththesamegoodhumour;tiedahandkerchiefroundherhead;andcameoutintothelittlegallerywiththerest.Then,suchanoracleasshebecameinreferencetothelocalities!andsuchfacetiousnessaswasdisplayedbythemarriedladies!andsuchsympathyaswasshownbythesingleones!andsuchpealsoflaughterasthelittlewomanherself(whowouldjustassoonhavecried)greetedeveryjestwith!

Atlast,therewerethelightsofSt.Louis,andherewasthewharf,andthosewerethesteps:andthelittlewomancoveringherfacewithherhands,andlaughing(orseemingtolaugh)morethanever,ranintoherowncabin,andshutherselfup.Ihavenodoubtthatinthecharminginconsistencyofsuchexcitement,shestoppedherears,lestsheshouldhearHimaskingforher:butIdidnotseeher

doit.

Then,agreatcrowdofpeoplerushedonboard,thoughtheboatwasnotyetmadefast,butwaswanderingabout,amongtheotherboats,tofindalanding-place:andeverybodylookedforthehusband:andnobodysawhim:when,inthemidstofusallHeavenknowshowsheevergottheretherewasthelittlewomanclingingwithbotharmstightroundtheneckofafine,good-looking,sturdyyoungfellow!andinamomentafterwards,thereshewasagain,actuallyclappingherlittlehandsforjoy,asshedraggedhimthroughthesmalldoorofhersmallcabin,tolookatthebabyashelayasleep!

Wewenttoalargehotel,calledthePlantersHouse:builtlikeanEnglishhospital,withlongpassagesandbarewalls,andsky-lightsabovetheroom-doorsfort

hefreecirculationofair.Therewereagreatmanyboardersinit;andasmanylightssparkledandglistenedfromthewindowsdownintothestreetbelow,whenwedroveup,asifithadbeenilluminatedonsomeoccasionofrejoicing.Itisanexcellenthouse,andtheproprietorshavemostbountifulnotionsofprovidingthecreaturecomforts.Diningalonewithmywifeinourownroom,oneday,Icountedfourteendishesonthetableatonce.

IntheoldFrenchportionofthetown,thethoroughfaresarenarrowandcrooked,andsomeofthehousesareveryquaintandpicturesque:beingbuiltofwood,withtumble-downgalleriesbeforethewindows,approachablebystairsorratherladdersfromthestreet.Therearequeerlittlebarbersshopsanddrinking-housestoo,inthisquarter;andabundanceofcrazyoldtenementswithblinkingcasements,suchasmaybeseeninFlanders.Someoftheseancienthabitations,withhigh

garretgable-windowsperkingintotheroofs,haveakindofFrenchshrugaboutthem;andbeinglop-sidedwithage,appeartoholdtheirheadsaskew,besides,asiftheyweregrimacinginastonishmentattheAmericanImprovements.

Itishardlynecessarytosay,thattheseconsistofwharfsandwarehouses,andnewbuildingsinalldirections;andofagreatmanyvastplanswhicharestillprogressing.Already,however,someverygoodhouses,broadstreets,andmarble-frontedshops,havegonesofaraheadastobeinastateofcompletion;andthetownbidsfairinafewyearstoimproveconsiderably:thoughitisnotlikelyevertovie,inpointofeleganceorbeauty,withCincinnati.



TheRomanCatholicreligion,introducedherebytheearlyFrenchsettlers,prevailsextensively.AmongthepublicinstitutionsareaJesuitcollege;aconventfortheLadiesoftheSacredHeart;andalargechapelattachedtothecollege,whichwasincourseoferectionatthetimeofmyvisit,andwasintendedtobeconsecratedonthesecondofDecemberinthenextyear.Thearchitectofthisbuilding,isoneofthereverendfathersoftheschool,andtheworksproceedunderhissoledirection.TheorganwillbesentfromBelgium.

Inadditiontotheseestablishments,thereisaRomanCatholiccathedral,dedicatedtoSaintFrancisXavier;andahospital,foundedbythemunificenceofadeceasedresident,whowasamemberofthatchurch.ItalsosendsmissionariesfromhenceamongtheIndiantribes.

TheUnitarianchurchisrepresented,inthisremoteplace,asinmostotherpartsofAmerica,byagentlemanofgreatworthandexcellence.Thepoorhavegoodreasontorememberandblessit;foritbefriendsthem,andaidsthecauseofrationaleducation,withoutanysectarianorselfishviews.Itisliberalinallitsactions;ofkindconstruction;andofwidebenevolence.

Therearethreefree-schoolsalreadyerected,andinfulloperationinthiscity.Afourthisbuilding,andwillsoonbeopened.

Nomaneveradmitstheunhealthinessoftheplacehedwellsin(unlessheisgoi

ngawayfromit),andIshalltherefore,Ihavenodoubt,beatissuewiththeinhabitantsofSt.Louis,inquestioningtheperfectsalubrityofitsclimate,andinhintingthatIthinkitmustratherdisposetofever,inthesummerandautumnalseasons.Justadding,thatitisveryhot,liesamonggreatrivers,andhasvasttractsofundrainedswampylandaroundit,Ileavethereadertoformhisownopinion.

AsIhadagreatdesiretoseeaPrairiebeforeturningbackfromthefurthestpointofmywanderings;andassomegentlemenofthetownhad,intheirhospitableconsideration,anequaldesiretogratifyme;adaywasfixed,beforemydeparture,foranexpeditiontotheLooking-GlassPrairie,whichiswithinthirtymilesofthetown.Deemingitpossiblethatmyreadersmaynotobjecttoknowwhatkindofthingsuchagipsypartymaybeatthatdistancefromhome,andamongwh

atsortofobjectsitmoves,Iwilldescribethejauntinanotherchapter.

ChapterXIIIAJaunttotheLooking-GlassPrairieandBack

IMAYpremisethatthewordPrairieisvariouslypronouncedPARAAER,PAREARER,PAROARER.Thelattermodeofpronunciationisperhapsthemostinfavour.

Wewerefourteeninall,andallyoungmen:indeeditisasingularthoughverynaturalfeatureinthesocietyofthesedistantsettlements,thatitismainlycomposedofadventurouspersonsintheprimeoflife,andhasveryfewgreyheadsamongit.Therewerenoladies:thetripbeingafatiguingone:andweweretostartatfiveoclockinthemorningpunctually.

Iwascalledatfour,thatImightbecertainofkeepingnobodywaiting;andhavinggotsomebreadandmilkforbreakfast,threwupthewindowandlookeddownintothestreet,expectingtoseethewholepartybusilyastir,andgreatpreparationsgoingonbelow.Butaseverythingwasveryquiet,andthestreetpresentedthathopelessaspectwithwhichfiveoclockinthemorningisfamiliarelsewhere,Ideemeditaswelltogotobedagain,andwentaccordingly.

Iwokeagainatsevenoclock,andbythattimethepartyhadassembled,andweregatheredround,onelightcarriage,withaverystoutaxletree;onesomethingon



wheelslikeanamateurcarrierscart;onedoublephaetonofgreatantiquityandunearthlyconstruction;onegigwithagreatholeinitsbackandabrokenhead;andonerideronhorsebackwhowastogoonbefore.Igotintothefirstcoachwiththreecompanions;therestbestowedthemselvesintheothervehicles;twolargebasketsweremadefasttothelightest;twolargestonejarsinwickercases,technicallyknownasdemi-johns,wereconsignedtotheleastrowdyofthepartyforsafe-keeping;andtheprocessionmovedofftotheferryboat,inwhichitwastocrosstheriverbodily,men,horses,carriages,andall,asthemannerinthesepartsis.

Wegotovertheriverinduecourse,andmusteredagainbeforealittlewoodenboxonwheels,hovedownallaslantinamorass,withMERCHANTTAILORpaintedinverylargelettersoverthedoor.Havingsettledtheorderofproceeding,andtheroadtobetaken,westartedoffoncemoreandbegantomakeourwaythroughanill-favouredBlackHollow,called,lessexpressively,theAmericanBottom.

Thepreviousdayhadbeennottosayhot,forthetermisweakandlukewarminitspowerofconveyinganideaofthetemperature.Thetownhadbeenonfire;inablaze.Butatnightithadcomeontorainintorrents,andallnightlongithadrainedwithoutcessation.Wehadapairofverystronghorses,buttravelledattherateoflittlemorethanacoupleofmilesanhour,throughoneunbrokensloughofblackmudandwater.Ithadnovarietybutindepth.Nowitwasonlyhalfoverthewheels,nowithidtheaxletree,andnowthecoachsankdowninitalmosttothewindows.Theairresoundedinalldirectionswiththeloudchirpi

ngofthefrogs,who,withthepigs(acoarse,uglybreed,asunwholesome-lookingasthoughtheywerethespontaneousgrowthofthecountry),hadthewholescenetothemselves.Hereandtherewepassedaloghut:butthewretchedcabinswerewideapartandthinlyscattered,forthoughthesoilisveryrichinthisplace,fewpeoplecanexistinsuchadeadlyatmosphere.Oneithersideofthetrack,ifitdeservethename,wasthethickbush;andeverywherewasstagnant,slimy,rotten,filthywater.

Asitisthecustominthesepartstogiveahorseagallonorsoofcoldwaterwheneverheisinafoamwithheat,wehaltedforthatpurpose,ataloginninthewood,farremovedfromanyotherresidence.Itconsistedofoneroom,bare-roofedandbare-walledofcourse,withaloftabove.Theministeringpriestwasaswarthyyoungsavage,inashirtofcottonprintlikebed-furniture,andapair

ofraggedtrousers.Therewereacoupleofyoungboys,too,nearlynaked,lyingidlebythewell;andthey,andhe,andTHEtravellerattheinn,turnedouttolookatus.

Thetravellerwasanoldmanwithagreygristlybeardtwoincheslong,ashaggymoustacheofthesamehue,andenormouseyebrows;whichalmostobscuredhislazy,semi-drunkenglance,ashestoodregardinguswithfoldedarms:poisinghimselfalternatelyuponhistoesandheels.Onbeingaddressedbyoneoftheparty,hedrewnearer,andsaid,rubbinghischin(whichscrapedunderhishornyhandlikefreshgravelbeneathanailedshoe),thathewasfromDelaware,andhadlatelyboughtafarmdownthere,pointingintooneofthemarsheswherethestuntedtreeswerethickest.Hewasgoing,headded,toSt.Louis,tofetchhisfamily,whomhehadleftbehind;butheseemedinnogreathurrytobringontheseincumbran

ces,forwhenwemovedaway,heloiteredbackintothecabin,andwasplainlybentonstoppingtheresolongashismoneylasted.Hewasagreatpoliticianofcourse,andexplainedhisopinionsatsomelengthtooneofourcompany;butIonlyrememberthatheconcludedwithtwosentiments,oneofwhichwas,Somebodyforever;andtheother,Blasteverybodyelse!whichisbynomeansabadabstractofthegeneralcreedinthesematters.

Whenthehorseswereswollenouttoabouttwicetheirnaturaldimensions(thereseemstobeanideahere,thatthiskindofinflationimprovestheirgoing),wewentforwardagain,throughmudandmire,anddamp,andfesteringheat,andbrak



eandbush,attendedalwaysbythemusicofthefrogsandpigs,untilnearlynoon,whenwehaltedataplacecalledBelleville.

Bellevillewasasmallcollectionofwoodenhouses,huddledtogetherintheveryheartofthebushandswamp.Manyofthemhadsingularlybrightdoorsofredandyellow;fortheplacehadbeenlatelyvisitedbyatravellingpainter,whogotalong,asIwastold,byeatinghisway.Thecriminalcourtwassitting,andwasatthatmomenttryingsomecriminalsforhorse-stealing:withwhomitwouldmostlikelygohard:forlivestockofallkindsbeingnecessarilyverymuchexposedinthewoods,isheldbythecommunityinratherhighervaluethanhumanlife;andforthisreason,juriesgenerallymakeapointoffindingallmenindictedforcattle-stealing,guilty,whetherorno.

Thehorsesbelongingtothebar,thejudge,andwitnesses,weretiedtotemporaryrackssetuproughlyintheroad;bywhichistobeunderstood,aforestpath,nearlyknee-deepinmudandslime.

Therewasanhotelinthisplace,which,likeallhotelsinAmerica,haditslargedining-roomforthepublictable.Itwasanodd,shambling,low-roofedout-house,half-cowshedandhalf-kitchen,withacoarsebrowncanvastable-cloth,andtinsconcesstuckagainstthewalls,toholdcandlesatsupper-time.Thehorsemanhadgoneforwardtohavecoffeeandsomeeatablesprepared,andtheywerebythistimenearlyready.Hehadorderedwheat-breadandchickenfixings,inpreferencetocorn-breadandcommondoings.Thelatterkindofrejectionincludesonlypor

kandbacon.Theformercomprehendsbroiledham,sausages,vealcutlets,steaks,andsuchotherviandsofthatnatureasmaybesupposed,byatolerablywidepoeticalconstruction,tofixachickencomfortablyinthedigestiveorgansofanyladyorgentleman.

Ononeofthedoor-postsatthisinn,wasatinplate,whereonwasinscribedincharactersofgold,DoctorCrocus;andonasheetofpaper,pastedupbythesideofthisplate,wasawrittenannouncementthatDr.CrocuswouldthateveningdeliveralectureonPhrenologyforthebenefitoftheBellevillepublic;atacharge,foradmission,ofsomuchahead.

Strayingup-stairs,duringthepreparationofthechickenfixings,Ihappenedtopassthedoctorschamber;andasthedoorstoodwideopen,andtheroomwasempt

y,Imadeboldtopeepin.

Itwasabare,unfurnished,comfortlessroom,withanunframedportraithangingupattheheadofthebed;alikeness,Itakeit,oftheDoctor,fortheforeheadwasfullydisplayed,andgreatstresswaslaidbytheartistuponitsphrenologicaldevelopments.Thebeditselfwascoveredwithanoldpatch-workcounterpane.Theroomwasdestituteofcarpetorofcurtain.Therewasadampfireplacewithoutanystove,fullofwoodashes;achair,andaverysmalltable;andonthelast-namedpieceoffurniturewasdisplayed,ingrandarray,thedoctorslibrary,consistingofsomehalf-dozengreasyoldbooks.

Now,itcertainlylookedaboutthelastapartmentonthewholeearthoutofwhichanymanwouldbelikelytogetanythingtodohimgood.Butthedoor,asIhav

esaid,stoodcoaxinglyopen,andplainlysaidinconjunctionwiththechair,theportrait,thetable,andthebooks,Walkin,gentlemen,walkin!Dontbeill,gentlemen,whenyoumaybewellinnotime.DoctorCrocusishere,gentlemen,thecelebratedDr.Crocus!Dr.Crocushascomeallthiswaytocureyou,gentlemen.IfyouhaventheardofDr.Crocus,itsyourfault,gentlemen,wholivealittlewayoutoftheworldhere:notDr.Crocuss.Walkin,gentlemen,walkin!

Inthepassagebelow,whenIwentdown-stairsagain,wasDr.Crocushimself.AcrowdhadflockedinfromtheCourtHouse,andavoicefromamongthemcalledouttothelandlord,Colonel!introduceDoctorCrocus.



Mr.Dickens,saysthecolonel,DoctorCrocus.

UponwhichDoctorCrocus,whoisatall,fine-lookingScotchman,butratherfierceandwarlikeinappearanceforaprofessorofthepeacefulartofhealing,burstsoutoftheconcoursewithhisrightarmextended,andhischestthrownoutasfarasitwillpossiblycome,andsays:

Yourcountryman,sir!

WhereuponDoctorCrocusandIshakehands;andDoctorCrocuslooksasifIdidntbyanymeansrealisehisexpectations,which,inalinenblouse,andagreatstrawhat,withagreenribbon,andnogloves,andmyfaceandnoseprofuselyornamentedwiththestingsofmosquitoesandthebitesofbugs,itisverylikelyIdidnot.

Longintheseparts,sir?saysI.

Threeorfourmonths,sir,saystheDoctor.

Doyouthinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry?saysI.

DoctorCrocusmakesnoverbalanswer,butgivesmeanimploringlook,whichsayssoplainlyWillyouaskmethatagain,alittlelouder,ifyouplease?thatIrep

eatthequestion.

Thinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry,sir!repeatstheDoctor.

Totheoldcountry,sir,Irejoin.

DoctorCrocuslooksrounduponthecrowdtoobservetheeffectheproduces,rubshishands,andsays,inaveryloudvoice:

Notyetawhile,sir,notyet.Youwontcatchmeatthatjustyet,sir.IamalittletoofondoffreedomforTHAT,sir.Ha,ha!Itsnotsoeasyforamantotearhimselffromafreecountrysuchasthisis,sir.Ha,ha!No,no!Ha,ha!Noneofthattillonesobligedtodoit,sir.No,no!

AsDoctorCrocussaystheselatterwords,heshakeshishead,knowingly,andlaughsagain.Manyofthebystandersshaketheirheadsinconcertwiththedoctor,andlaughtoo,andlookateachotherasmuchastosay,Aprettybrightandfirst-ratesortofchapisCrocus!andunlessIamverymuchmistaken,agoodmanypeoplewenttothelecturethatnight,whoneverthoughtaboutphrenology,oraboutDoctorCrocuseither,inalltheirlivesbefore.

FromBelleville,wewenton,throughthesamedesolatekindofwaste,andconstantlyattended,withouttheintervalofamoment,bythesamemusic;until,atthreeoclockintheafternoon,wehaltedoncemoreatavillagecalledLebanontoinflatethehorsesagain,andgivethemsomecornbesides:ofwhichtheystoodmuchinneed.Pendingthisceremony,Iwalkedintothevillage,whereImetafull

-sizeddwelling-housecomingdown-hillataroundtrot,drawnbyascoreormoreofoxen.

Thepublic-housewassoverycleanandgoodaone,thatthemanagersofthejauntresolvedtoreturntoitandputupthereforthenight,ifpossible.Thiscoursedecidedon,andthehorsesbeingwellrefreshed,weagainpushedforward,andcameuponthePrairieatsunset.

Itwouldbedifficulttosaywhy,orhowthoughitwaspossiblyfromhavingheardandreadsomuchaboutitbuttheeffectonmewasdisappointment.Lookingtow



ardsthesettingsun,therelay,stretchedoutbeforemyview,avastexpanseoflevelground;unbroken,savebyonethinlineoftrees,whichscarcelyamountedtoascratchuponthegreatblank;untilitmettheglowingsky,whereinitseemedtodip:minglingwithitsrichcolours,andmellowinginitsdistantblue.Thereitlay,atranquilseaorlakewithoutwater,ifsuchasimilebeadmissible,withthedaygoingdownuponit:afewbirdswheelinghereandthere:andsolitudeandsilencereigningparamountaround.Butthegrasswasnotyethigh;therewerebareblackpatchesontheground;andthefewwildflowersthattheeyecouldsee,werepoorandscanty.Greatasthepicturewas,itsveryflatnessandextent,whichleftnothingtotheimagination,tameditdownandcrampeditsinterest.IfeltlittleofthatsenseoffreedomandexhilarationwhichaScottishheathinspires,orevenourEnglishdownsawaken.Itwaslonelyandwild,butoppressiveinitsbarrenmonotony.IfeltthatintraversingthePrairies,Icouldneverabandonmyselftothescene,forgetfulofallelse;asIshoulddoinstinctively,weretheheatherunderneathmyfeet,oraniron-boundcoastbeyond;butshouldoftenglancetowardsthedistantandfrequently-recedinglineofthehorizon,andwishitgainedandpassed.Itisnotascenetobeforgotten,butitisscarcelyone,Ithink(atallevents,asIsawit),torememberwithmuchpleasure,ortocovetthelooking-onagain,inafter-life.

Weencampednearasolitarylog-house,forthesakeofitswater,anddinedupontheplain.Thebasketscontainedroastfowls,buffalostongue(anexquisitedainty,bytheway),ham,bread,cheese,andbutter;biscuits,champagne,sherry;lemonsandsugarforpunch;andabundanceofroughice.Themealwasdelicious,an

dtheentertainerswerethesoulofkindnessandgoodhumour.Ihaveoftenrecalledthatcheerfulpartytomypleasantrecollectionsince,andshallnoteasilyforget,injunketingsnearerhomewithfriendsofolderdate,mybooncompanionsonthePrairie.

ReturningtoLebanonthatnight,welayatthelittleinnatwhichwehadhaltedintheafternoon.InpointofcleanlinessandcomfortitwouldhavesufferedbynocomparisonwithanyEnglishalehouse,ofahomelykind,inEngland.

Risingatfiveoclocknextmorning,Itookawalkaboutthevillage:noneofthehouseswerestrollingaboutto-day,butitwasearlyforthemyet,perhaps:andthenamusedmyselfbylounginginakindoffarm-yardbehindthetavern,ofwhichtheleadingfeatureswere,astrangejumbleofroughshedsforstables;arude

colonnade,builtasacoolplaceofsummerresort;adeepwell;agreatearthenmoundforkeepingvegetablesin,inwintertime;andapigeon-house,whoselittleapertureslooked,astheydoinallpigeon-houses,verymuchtoosmallfortheadmissionoftheplumpandswelling-breastedbirdswhowerestruttingaboutit,thoughtheytriedtogetinneversohard.Thatinterestexhausted,Itookasurveyoftheinnstwoparlours,whichweredecoratedwithcolouredprintsofWashington,andPresidentMadison,andofawhite-facedyounglady(muchspeckledbytheflies),whohelduphergoldneck-chainfortheadmirationofthespectator,andinformedalladmiringcomersthatshewasJustSeventeen:althoughIshouldhavethoughtherolder.Inthebestroomweretwooilportraitsofthekit-catsize,representingthelandlordandhisinfantson;bothlookingasboldaslions,andstaringoutofthecanvaswithanintensitythatwouldhavebeencheapatanyprice.Theywerepainted,Ithink,bytheartistwhohadtoucheduptheBell

evilledoorswithredandgold;forIseemedtorecognisehisstyleimmediately.

Afterbreakfast,westartedtoreturnbyadifferentwayfromthatwhichwehadtakenyesterday,andcomingupattenoclockwithanencampmentofGermanemigrantscarryingtheirgoodsincarts,whohadmadearousingfirewhichtheywerejustquitting,stoppedtheretorefresh.Andverypleasantthefirewas;for,hotthoughithadbeenyesterday,itwasquitecoldto-day,andthewindblewkeenly.Loominginthedistance,aswerodealong,wasanotheroftheancientIndianburial-places,calledTheMonksMound;inmemoryofabodyoffanaticsoftheorderofLaTrappe,whofoundedadesolateconventthere,manyyearsago,whenthere



werenosettlerswithinathousandmiles,andwereallsweptoffbytheperniciousclimate:inwhichlamentablefatality,fewrationalpeoplewillsuppose,perhaps,thatsocietyexperiencedanyveryseveredeprivation.

Thetrackofto-dayhadthesamefeaturesasthetrackofyesterday.Therewastheswamp,thebush,andtheperpetualchorusoffrogs,therankunseemlygrowth,theunwholesomesteamingearth.Hereandthere,andfrequentlytoo,weencounteredasolitarybroken-downwaggon,fullofsomenewsettlersgoods.Itwasapitifulsighttoseeoneofthesevehiclesdeepinthemire;theaxle-treebroken;thewheellyingidlybyitsside;themangonemilesaway,tolookforassistance;thewomanseatedamongtheirwanderinghouseholdgodswithababyatherbreast,apictureofforlorn,dejectedpatience;theteamofoxencrouchingdownmournfullyinthemud,andbreathingforthsuchcloudsofvapourfromtheirmouthsandnostrils,thatallthedampmistandfogaroundseemedtohavecomedirectfromthem.

Induetimewemusteredonceagainbeforethemerchanttailors,andhavingdoneso,crossedovertothecityintheferry-boat:passing,ontheway,aspotcalledBloodyIsland,theduelling-groundofSt.Louis,andsodesignatedinhonourofthelastfatalcombatfoughtthere,whichwaswithpistols,breasttobreast.Bothcombatantsfelldeadupontheground;andpossiblysomerationalpeoplemaythinkofthem,asofthegloomymadmenontheMonksMound,thattheywerenogreatlosstothecommunity.

ChapterXIVReturntoCincinnati.AStage-CoachRidefromthatCitytoColumbus,andThencetoSandusky.So,byLakeErie,totheFallsofNiagara

ASIhadadesiretotravelthroughtheinteriorofthestateofOhio,andtostrikethelakes,asthephraseis,atasmalltowncalledSandusky,towhichthatroutewouldconductusonourwaytoNiagara,wehadtoreturnfromSt.Louisbythewaywehadcome,andtoretraceourformertrackasfarasCincinnati.

ThedayonwhichweweretotakeleaveofSt.Louisbeingveryfine;andthesteamboat,whichwastohavestartedIdontknowhowearlyinthemorning,postponing,forthethirdorfourthtime,herdepartureuntiltheafternoon;werodeforwardtoanoldFrenchvillageontheriver,calledproperlyCarondelet,andnickn

amedVidePoche,andarrangedthatthepacketshouldcallforusthere.

Theplaceconsistedofafewpoorcottages,andtwoorthreepublic-houses;thestateofwhoselarderscertainlyseemedtojustifytheseconddesignationofthevillage,fortherewasnothingtoeatinanyofthem.Atlength,however,bygoingbacksomehalfamileorso,wefoundasolitaryhousewherehamandcoffeewereprocurable;andtherewetarriedtowaittheadventoftheboat,whichwouldcomeinsightfromthegreenbeforethedoor,alongwayoff.

Itwasaneat,unpretendingvillagetavern,andwetookourrepastinaquaintlittleroomwithabedinit,decoratedwithsomeoldoilpaintings,whichintheirtimehadprobablydonedutyinaCatholicchapelormonastery.Thefarewasverygood,andservedwithgreatcleanliness.Thehousewaskeptbyacharacteris

ticoldcouple,withwhomwehadalongtalk,andwhowereperhapsaverygoodsampleofthatkindofpeopleintheWest.

Thelandlordwasadry,tough,hard-facedoldfellow(notsoveryoldeither,forhewasbutjustturnedsixty,Ishouldthink),whohadbeenoutwiththemilitiainthelastwarwithEngland,andhadseenallkindsofservice,exceptabattle;andhehadbeenverynearseeingthat,headded:verynear.Hehadallhislifebeenrestlessandlocomotive,withanirresistibledesireforchange;andwasstillthesonofhisoldself:forifhehadnothingtokeephimathome,hesaid(slightlyjerkinghishatandhisthumbtowardsthewindowoftheroominw



hichtheoldladysat,aswestoodtalkinginfrontofthehouse),hewouldcleanuphismusket,andbeofftoTexasto-morrowmorning.HewasoneoftheverymanydescendantsofCainpropertothiscontinent,whoseemdestinedfromtheirbirthtoserveaspioneersinthegreathumanarmy:whogladlygoonfromyeartoyearextendingitsoutposts,andleavinghomeafterhomebehindthem;anddieatlast,utterlyregardlessoftheirgravesbeingleftthousandsofmilesbehind,bythewanderinggenerationwhosucceed.

Hiswifewasadomesticated,kind-heartedoldsoul,whohadcomewithhim,fromthequeencityoftheworld,which,itseemed,wasPhiladelphia;buthadnoloveforthisWesterncountry,andindeedhadlittlereasontobearitany;havingseenherchildren,onebyone,diehereoffever,inthefullprimeandbeautyoftheiryouth.Herheartwassore,shesaid,tothinkofthem;andtotalkonthistheme,eventostrangers,inthatblightedplace,sofarfromheroldhome,easeditsomewhat,andbecameamelancholypleasure.

Theboatappearingtowardsevening,webadeadieutothepooroldladyandhervagrantspouse,andmakingforthenearestlanding-place,weresoononboardTheMessengeragain,inouroldcabin,andsteamingdowntheMississippi.

Ifthecomingupthisriver,slowlymakingheadagainstthestream,beanirksomejourney,theshootingdownitwiththeturbidcurrentisalmostworse;forthentheboat,proceedingattherateoftwelveorfifteenmilesanhour,hastoforceitspassagethroughalabyrinthoffloatinglogs,which,inthedark,itis

oftenimpossibletoseebeforehandoravoid.Allthatnight,thebellwasneversilentforfiveminutesatatime;andaftereveryringthevesselreeledagain,sometimesbeneathasingleblow,sometimesbeneathadozendealtinquicksuccession,thelightestofwhichseemedmorethanenoughtobeatinherfrailkeel,asthoughithadbeenpie-crust.Lookingdownuponthefilthyriverafterdark,itseemedtobealivewithmonsters,astheseblackmassesrolleduponthesurface,orcamestartingupagain,headfirst,whentheboat,inploughingherwayamongashoalofsuchobstructions,droveafewamongthemforthemomentunderwater.Sometimestheenginestoppedduringalonginterval,andthenbeforeherandbehind,andgatheringcloseaboutheronallsides,weresomanyoftheseill-favouredobstaclesthatshewasfairlyhemmedin;thecentreofafloatingisland;andwasconstrainedtopauseuntiltheyparted,somewhere,asdarkcloudswilldobeforethewind,andopenedbydegreesachannelout.

Ingoodtimenextmorning,however,wecameagaininsightofthedetestablemorasscalledCairo;andstoppingtheretotakeinwood,layalongsideabarge,whosestartingtimbersscarcelyheldtogether.Itwasmooredtothebank,andonitssidewaspaintedCoffeeHouse;thatbeing,Isuppose,thefloatingparadisetowhichthepeopleflyforshelterwhentheylosetheirhousesforamonthortwobeneaththehideouswatersoftheMississippi.Butlookingsouthwardfromthispoint,wehadthesatisfactionofseeingthatintolerableriverdraggingitsslimylengthanduglyfreightabruptlyofftowardsNewOrleans;andpassingayellowlinewhichstretchedacrossthecurrent,wereagainupontheclearOhio,never,Itrust,toseetheMississippimore,savingintroubleddreamsandnightmares.Leavingitforthecompanyofitssparklingneighbour,waslikethetransitionfrompaintoease,ortheawakeningfromahorriblevisiontocheerfulrealities.

WearrivedatLouisvilleonthefourthnight,andgladlyavailedourselvesofitsexcellenthotel.NextdaywewentonintheBenFranklin,abeautifulmailsteamboat,andreachedCincinnatishortlyaftermidnight.Beingbythistimenearlytiredofsleepinguponshelves,wehadremainedawaketogoashorestraightway;andgropingapassageacrossthedarkdecksofotherboats,andamonglabyrinthsofengine-machineryandleakingcasksofmolasses,wereachedthestreets,knockeduptheporteratthehotelwherewehadstayedbefore,andwere,toourgreatjoy,safelyhousedsoonafterwards.



WerestedbutonedayatCincinnati,andthenresumedourjourneytoSandusky.Asitcomprisedtwovarietiesofstage-coachtravelling,which,withthoseIhavealreadyglancedat,comprehendthemaincharacteristicsofthismodeoftransitinAmerica,Iwilltakethereaderasourfellow-passenger,andpledgemyselftoperformthedistancewithallpossibledespatch.

OurplaceofdestinationinthefirstinstanceisColumbus.ItisdistantaboutahundredandtwentymilesfromCincinnati,butthereisamacadamisedroad(rareblessing!)thewholeway,andtherateoftravellinguponitissixmilesanhour.

Westartateightoclockinthemorning,inagreatmail-coach,whosehugecheeksaresoveryruddyandplethoric,thatitappearstobetroubledwithatendencyofbloodtothehead.Dropsicalitcertainlyis,foritwillholdadozenpassengersinside.But,wonderfultoadd,itisverycleanandbright,beingnearlynew;andrattlesthroughthestreetsofCincinnatigaily.

Ourwayliesthroughabeautifulcountry,richlycultivated,andluxuriantinitspromiseofanabundantharvest.SometimeswepassafieldwherethestrongbristlingstalksofIndiancornlooklikeacropofwalking-sticks,andsometimesanenclosurewherethegreenwheatisspringingupamongalabyrinthofstumps;theprimitiveworm-fenceisuniversal,andanuglythingitis;butthefarmsareneatlykept,and,saveforthesedifferences,onemightbetravellingjustnowinKent.

Weoftenstoptowaterataroadsideinn,whichisalwaysdullandsilent.Thecoachmandismountsandfillshisbucket,andholdsittothehorsesheads.Thereisscarcelyeveranyonetohelphim;thereareseldomanyloungersstandinground;andneveranystable-companywithjokestocrack.Sometimes,whenwehavechangedourteam,thereisadifficultyinstartingagain,arisingoutoftheprevalentmodeofbreakingayounghorse:whichistocatchhim,harnesshimagainsthiswill,andputhiminastage-coachwithoutfurthernotice:butwegetonsomehoworother,afteragreatmanykicksandaviolentstruggle;andjogonasbeforeagain.

Occasionally,whenwestoptochange,sometwoorthreehalf-drunkenloaferswillcomeloiteringoutwiththeirhandsintheirpockets,orwillbeseenkicking

theirheelsinrocking-chairs,orloungingonthewindow-sill,orsittingonarailwithinthecolonnade:theyhavenotoftenanythingtosaythough,eithertousortoeachother,butsitthereidlystaringatthecoachandhorses.Thelandlordoftheinnisusuallyamongthem,andseems,ofalltheparty,tobetheleastconnectedwiththebusinessofthehouse.Indeedheiswithreferencetothetavern,whatthedriverisinrelationtothecoachandpassengers:whateverhappensinhissphereofaction,heisquiteindifferent,andperfectlyeasyinhismind.

Thefrequentchangeofcoachmenworksnochangeorvarietyinthecoachmanscharacter.Heisalwaysdirty,sullen,andtaciturn.Ifhebecapableofsmartnessofanykind,moralorphysical,hehasafacultyofconcealingitwhichistrulymarvellous.Heneverspeakstoyouasyousitbesidehimonthebox,andifyous

peaktohim,heanswers(ifatall)inmonosyllables.Hepointsoutnothingontheroad,andseldomlooksatanything:being,toallappearance,thoroughlywearyofitandofexistencegenerally.Astodoingthehonoursofhiscoach,hisbusiness,asIhavesaid,iswiththehorses.Thecoachfollowsbecauseitisattachedtothemandgoesonwheels:notbecauseyouareinit.Sometimes,towardstheendofalongstage,hesuddenlybreaksoutintoadiscordantfragmentofanelectionsong,buthisfaceneversingsalongwithhim:itisonlyhisvoice,andnotoftenthat.

Healwayschewsandalwaysspits,andneverencumbershimselfwithapocket-hand



kerchief.Theconsequencestotheboxpassenger,especiallywhenthewindblowstowardshim,arenotagreeable.

Wheneverthecoachstops,andyoucanhearthevoicesoftheinsidepassengers;orwheneveranybystanderaddressesthem,oranyoneamongthem;ortheyaddresseachother;youwillhearonephraserepeatedoverandoverandoveragaintothemostextraordinaryextent.Itisanordinaryandunpromisingphraseenough,beingneithermorenorlessthanYes,sir;butitisadaptedtoeveryvarietyofcircumstance,andfillsupeverypauseintheconversation.Thus:-

Thetimeisoneoclockatnoon.Thescene,aplacewherewearetostayanddine,onthisjourney.Thecoachdrivesuptothedoorofaninn.Thedayiswarm,andthereareseveralidlerslingeringaboutthetavern,andwaitingforthepublicdinner.Amongthem,isastoutgentlemaninabrownhat,swinginghimselftoandfroinarocking-chaironthepavement.

Asthecoachstops,agentlemaninastrawhatlooksoutofthewindow:

STRAWHAT.(Tothestoutgentlemanintherocking-chair.)IreckonthatsJudgeJefferson,antit?

BROWNHAT.(Stillswinging;speakingveryslowly;andwithoutanyemotionwhatever.)Yes,sir.

STRAWHAT.Warmweather,Judge.

BROWNHAT.Yes,sir.

STRAWHAT.Therewasasnapofcold,lastweek.

BROWNHAT.Yes,sir.

STRAWHAT.Yes,sir.

Apause.Theylookateachother,veryseriously.

STRAWHAT.Icalculateyoullhavegotthroughthatcaseofthecorporation,Judge

,bythistime,now?

BROWNHAT.Yes,sir.

STRAWHAT.Howdidtheverdictgo,sir?

BROWNHAT.Forthedefendant,sir.

STRAWHAT.(Interrogatively.)Yes,sir?

BROWNHAT.(Affirmatively.)Yes,sir.

BOTH.(Musingly,aseachgazesdownthestreet.)Yes,sir.

Anotherpause.Theylookateachotheragain,stillmoreseriouslythanbefore.

BROWNHAT.Thiscoachisratherbehinditstimeto-day,Iguess.

STRAWHAT.(Doubtingly.)Yes,sir.

BROWNHAT.(Lookingathiswatch.)Yes,sir;nighupontwohours.

STRAWHAT.(Raisinghiseyebrowsinverygreatsurprise.)Yes,sir!



BROWNHAT.(Decisively,asheputsuphiswatch.)Yes,sir.

ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS.(Amongthemselves.)Yes,sir.

COACHMAN.(Inaverysurlytone.)Noitant.

STRAWHAT.(Tothecoachman.)Well,Idontknow,sir.Wewereaprettytalltimecomingthatlastfifteenmile.Thatsafact.

Thecoachmanmakingnoreply,andplainlydecliningtoenterintoanycontroversyonasubjectsofarremovedfromhissympathiesandfeelings,anotherpassengersays,Yes,sir;andthegentlemaninthestrawhatinacknowledgmentofhiscourtesy,saysYes,sir,tohim,inreturn.Thestrawhattheninquiresofthebrownhat,whetherthatcoachinwhichhe(thestrawhat)thensits,isnotanewone?Towhichthebrownhatagainmakesanswer,Yes,sir.

STRAWHAT.Ithoughtso.Prettyloudsmellofvarnish,sir?

BROWNHAT.Yes,sir.

ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS.Yes,sir.

BROWNHAT.(Tothecompanyingeneral.)Yes,sir.

Theconversationalpowersofthecompanyhavingbeenbythistimeprettyheavilytaxed,thestrawhatopensthedoorandgetsout;andalltherestalightalso.Wedinesoonafterwardswiththeboardersinthehouse,andhavenothingtodrinkbutteaandcoffee.Astheyarebothverybadandthewaterisworse,Iaskforbrandy;butitisaTemperanceHotel,andspiritsarenottobehadforloveormoney.ThispreposterousforcingofunpleasantdrinksdownthereluctantthroatsoftravellersisnotatalluncommoninAmerica,butIneverdiscoveredthatthescruplesofsuchwincinglandlordsinducedthemtopreserveanyunusuallynicebalancebetweenthequalityoftheirfare,andtheirscaleofcharges:onthecontrary,Irathersuspectedthemofdiminishingtheoneandexaltingtheother,bywayofrecompenseforthelossoftheirprofitonthesaleofspirituousliquors.Afterall,perhaps,theplainestcourseforpersonsofsuchtenderconsc

iences,wouldbe,atotalabstinencefromtavern-keeping.

Dinnerover,wegetintoanothervehiclewhichisreadyatthedoor(forthecoachhasbeenchangedintheinterval),andresumeourjourney;whichcontinuesthroughthesamekindofcountryuntilevening,whenwecometothetownwherewearetostopforteaandsupper;andhavingdeliveredthemailbagsatthePost-office,ridethroughtheusualwidestreet,linedwiththeusualstoresandhouses(thedrapersalwayshavinghungupattheirdoor,bywayofsign,apieceofbrightredcloth),tothehotelwherethismealisprepared.Therebeingmanyboardershere,wesitdown,alargeparty,andaverymelancholyoneasusual.Butthereisabuxomhostessattheheadofthetable,andopposite,asimpleWelshschoolmasterwithhiswifeandchild;whocamehere,onaspeculationofgreaterpromisethanperformance,toteachtheclassics:andtheyaresufficientsubjec

tsofinterestuntilthemealisover,andanothercoachisready.Initwegoononcemore,lightedbyabrightmoon,untilmidnight;whenwestoptochangethecoachagain,andremainforhalfanhourorsoinamiserableroom,withablurredlithographofWashingtonoverthesmokyfire-place,andamightyjugofcoldwateronthetable:towhichrefreshmentthemoodypassengersdosoapplythemselvesthattheywouldseemtobe,oneandall,keenpatientsofDr.Sangrado.Amongthemisaverylittleboy,whochewstobaccolikeaverybigone;andadroninggentleman,whotalksarithmeticallyandstatisticallyonallsubjects,frompoetrydownwards;andwhoalwaysspeaksinthesamekey,withexactlythesameemphasis,andwithverygravedeliberation.Hecameoutsidejustnow,andtoldm



ehowthattheuncleofacertainyoungladywhohadbeenspiritedawayandmarriedbyacertaincaptain,livedintheseparts;andhowthisunclewassovaliantandferociousthatheshouldntwonderifheweretofollowthesaidcaptaintoEngland,andshoothimdowninthestreetwhereverhefoundhim;inthefeasibilityofwhichstrongmeasureI,beingforthemomentratherpronetocontradiction,fromfeelinghalfasleepandverytired,declinedtoacquiesce:assuringhimthatiftheuncledidresorttoit,orgratifiedanyotherlittlewhimofthelikenature,hewouldfindhimselfonemorningprematurelythrottledattheOldBailey:andthathewoulddowelltomakehiswillbeforehewent,ashewouldcertainlywantitbeforehehadbeeninBritainverylong.

Onwego,allnight,andby-and-bythedaybeginstobreak,andpresentlythefirstcheerfulraysofthewarmsuncomeslantingonusbrightly.Itshedsitslightuponamiserablewasteofsoddengrass,anddulltrees,andsqualidhuts,whoseaspectisforlornandgrievousinthelastdegree.Averydesertinthewood,whosegrowthofgreenisdankandnoxiouslikethatuponthetopofstandingwater:wherepoisonousfungusgrowsintherarefootprintontheoozyground,andsproutslikewitchescoral,fromthecrevicesinthecabinwallandfloor;itisahideousthingtolieupontheverythresholdofacity.Butitwaspurchasedyearsago,andastheownercannotbediscovered,theStatehasbeenunabletoreclaimit.Sothereitremains,inthemidstofcultivationandimprovement,likegroundaccursed,andmadeobsceneandrankbysomegreatcrime.

WereachedColumbusshortlybeforesevenoclock,andstayedthere,torefresh,th

atdayandnight:havingexcellentapartmentsinaverylargeunfinishedhotelcalledtheNeillHouse,whichwererichlyfittedwiththepolishedwoodoftheblackwalnut,andopenedonahandsomeporticoandstoneverandah,likeroomsinsomeItalianmansion.Thetowniscleanandpretty,andofcourseisgoingtobemuchlarger.ItistheseatoftheStatelegislatureofOhio,andlaysclaim,inconsequence,tosomeconsiderationandimportance.

Therebeingnostage-coachnextday,upontheroadwewishedtotake,Ihiredanextra,atareasonablechargetocarryustoTiffin;asmalltownfromwhencethereisarailroadtoSandusky.Thisextrawasanordinaryfour-horsestage-coach,suchasIhavedescribed,changinghorsesanddrivers,asthestage-coachwould,butwasexclusivelyourownforthejourney.Toensureourhavinghorsesattheproperstations,andbeingincommodedbynostrangers,theproprietorssentan

agentonthebox,whowastoaccompanyusthewholewaythrough;andthusattended,andbearingwithus,besides,ahamperfullofsavourycoldmeats,andfruit,andwine,westartedoffagaininhighspirits,athalf-pastsixoclocknextmorning,verymuchdelightedtobebyourselves,anddisposedtoenjoyeventheroughestjourney.

Itwaswellforus,thatwewereinthishumour,fortheroadwewentoverthatday,wascertainlyenoughtohaveshakentempersthatwerenotresolutelyatSetFair,downtosomeinchesbelowStormy.Atonetimewewereallflungtogetherinaheapatthebottomofthecoach,andatanotherwewerecrushingourheadsagainsttheroof.Now,onesidewasdowndeepinthemire,andwewereholdingontotheother.Now,thecoachwaslyingonthetailsofthetwowheelers;andnowitwasrearingupintheair,inafranticstate,withallfourhorsesstandi

ngonthetopofaninsurmountableeminence,lookingcoollybackatit,asthoughtheywouldsayUnharnessus.Itcantbedone.Thedriversontheseroads,whocertainlygetoverthegroundinamannerwhichisquitemiraculous,sotwistandturntheteamaboutinforcingapassage,corkscrewfashion,throughthebogsandswamps,thatitwasquiteacommoncircumstanceonlookingoutofthewindow,toseethecoachmanwiththeendsofapairofreinsinhishands,apparentlydrivingnothing,orplayingathorses,andtheleadersstaringatoneunexpectedlyfromthebackofthecoach,asiftheyhadsomeideaofgettingupbehind.Agreatportionofthewaywasoverwhatiscalledacorduroyroad,whichismadebythrowingtrunksoftreesintoamarsh,andleavingthemtosettlethere.Thever



yslightestofthejoltswithwhichtheponderouscarriagefellfromlogtolog,wasenough,itseemed,tohavedislocatedallthebonesinthehumanbody.Itwouldbeimpossibletoexperienceasimilarsetofsensations,inanyothercircumstances,unlessperhapsinattemptingtogouptothetopofSt.Paulsinanomnibus.Never,neveronce,thatday,wasthecoachinanyposition,attitude,orkindofmotiontowhichweareaccustomedincoaches.Neverdiditmakethesmallestapproachtoonesexperienceoftheproceedingsofanysortofvehiclethatgoesonwheels.

Still,itwasafineday,andthetemperaturewasdelicious,andthoughwehadleftSummerbehindusinthewest,andwerefastleavingSpring,weweremovingtowardsNiagaraandhome.Wealightedinapleasantwoodtowardsthemiddleoftheday,dinedonafallentree,andleavingourbestfragmentswithacottager,andourworstwiththepigs(whoswarminthispartofthecountrylikegrainsofsandonthesea-shore,tothegreatcomfortofourcommissariatinCanada),wewentforwardagain,gaily.

Asnightcameon,thetrackgrewnarrowerandnarrower,untilatlastitsolostitselfamongthetrees,thatthedriverseemedtofindhiswaybyinstinct.Wehadthecomfortofknowing,atleast,thattherewasnodangerofhisfallingasleep,foreverynowandthenawheelwouldstrikeagainstanunseenstumpwithsuchajerk,thathewasfaintoholdonprettytightandprettyquick,tokeephimselfuponthebox.Norwasthereanyreasontodreadtheleastdangerfromfuriousdriving,inasmuchasoverthatbrokengroundthehorseshadenoughtodoto

walk;astoshying,therewasnoroomforthat;andaherdofwildelephantscouldnothaverunawayinsuchawood,withsuchacoachattheirheels.Sowestumbledalong,quitesatisfied.

ThesestumpsoftreesareacuriousfeatureinAmericantravelling.Thevaryingillusionstheypresenttotheunaccustomedeyeasitgrowsdark,arequiteastonishingintheirnumberandreality.Now,thereisaGrecianurnerectedinthecentreofalonelyfield;nowthereisawomanweepingatatomb;nowaverycommonplaceoldgentlemaninawhitewaistcoat,withathumbthrustintoeacharm-holeofhiscoat;nowastudentporingonabook;nowacrouchingnegro;now,ahorse,adog,acannon,anarmedman;ahunch-backthrowingoffhiscloakandsteppingforthintothelight.Theywereoftenasentertainingtomeassomanyglassesinamagiclantern,andnevertooktheirshapesatmybidding,butseemedto

forcethemselvesuponme,whetherIwouldorno;andstrangetosay,Isometimesrecognisedinthemcounterpartsoffiguresoncefamiliartomeinpicturesattachedtochildishbooks,forgottenlongago.

Itsoonbecametoodark,however,evenforthisamusement,andthetreesweresoclosetogetherthattheirdrybranchesrattledagainstthecoachoneitherside,andobligedusalltokeepourheadswithin.Itlightenedtoo,forthreewholehours;eachflashbeingverybright,andblue,andlong;andasthevividstreakscamedartinginamongthecrowdedbranches,andthethunderrolledgloomilyabovethetreetops,onecouldscarcelyhelpthinkingthattherewerebetterneighbourhoodsatsuchatimethanthickwoodsafforded.

Atlength,betweentenandelevenoclockatnight,afewfeeblelightsappearedi

nthedistance,andUpperSandusky,anIndianvillage,whereweweretostaytillmorning,laybeforeus.

TheyweregonetobedatthelogInn,whichwastheonlyhouseofentertainmentintheplace,butsoonansweredtoourknocking,andgotsometeaforusinasortofkitchenorcommonroom,tapestriedwitholdnewspapers,pastedagainstthewall.Thebed-chambertowhichmywifeandIwereshown,wasalarge,low,ghostlyroom;withaquantityofwitheredbranchesonthehearth,andtwodoorswithoutanyfastening,oppositetoeachother,bothopeningontheblacknightandwildcountry,andsocontrived,thatoneofthemalwaysblewtheotheropen:ano



veltyindomesticarchitecture,whichIdonotremembertohaveseenbefore,andwhichIwassomewhatdisconcertedtohaveforcedonmyattentionaftergettingintobed,asIhadaconsiderablesumingoldforourtravellingexpenses,inmydressing-case.Someoftheluggage,however,piledagainstthepanels,soonsettledthisdifficulty,andmysleepwouldnothavebeenverymuchaffectedthatnight,Ibelieve,thoughithadfailedtodoso.

MyBostonfriendclimbeduptobed,somewhereintheroof,whereanotherguestwasalreadysnoringhugely.Butbeingbittenbeyondhispowerofendurance,heturnedoutagain,andfledforsheltertothecoach,whichwasairingitselfinfrontofthehouse.Thiswasnotaverypoliticstep,asitturnedout;forthepigsscentinghim,andlookinguponthecoachasakindofpiewithsomemannerofmeatinside,gruntedrounditsohideously,thathewasafraidtocomeoutagain,andlaythereshivering,tillmorning.Norwasitpossibletowarmhim,whenhedidcomeout,bymeansofaglassofbrandy:forinIndianvillages,thelegislature,withaverygoodandwiseintention,forbidsthesaleofspiritsbytavernkeepers.Theprecaution,however,isquiteinefficacious,fortheIndiansneverfailtoprocureliquorofaworsekind,atadearerprice,fromtravellingpedlars.

ItisasettlementoftheWyandotIndianswhoinhabitthisplace.Amongthecompanyatbreakfastwasamildoldgentleman,whohadbeenformanyyearsemployedbytheUnitedStatesGovernmentinconductingnegotiationswiththeIndians,andwhohadjustconcludedatreatywiththesepeoplebywhichtheyboundthemselve

s,inconsiderationofacertainannualsum,toremovenextyeartosomelandprovidedforthem,westoftheMississippi,andalittlewaybeyondSt.Louis.Hegavemeamovingaccountoftheirstrongattachmenttothefamiliarscenesoftheirinfancy,andinparticulartotheburial-placesoftheirkindred;andoftheirgreatreluctancetoleavethem.Hehadwitnessedmanysuchremovals,andalwayswithpain,thoughheknewthattheydepartedfortheirowngood.Thequestionwhetherthistribeshouldgoorstay,hadbeendiscussedamongthemadayortwobefore,inahuterectedforthepurpose,thelogsofwhichstilllayuponthegroundbeforetheinn.Whenthespeakingwasdone,theayesandnoeswererangedonoppositesides,andeverymaleadultvotedinhisturn.Themomenttheresultwasknown,theminority(alargeone)cheerfullyyieldedtotherest,andwithdrewallkindofopposition.

WemetsomeofthesepoorIndiansafterwards,ridingonshaggyponies.Theyweresolikethemeanersortofgipsies,thatifIcouldhaveseenanyoftheminEngland,Ishouldhaveconcluded,asamatterofcourse,thattheybelongedtothatwanderingandrestlesspeople.

Leavingthistowndirectlyafterbreakfast,wepushedforwardagain,overaratherworseroadthanyesterday,ifpossible,andarrivedaboutnoonatTiffin,wherewepartedwiththeextra.Attwooclockwetooktherailroad;thetravellingonwhichwasveryslow,itsconstructionbeingindifferent,andthegroundwetandmarshy;andarrivedatSanduskyintimetodinethatevening.WeputupatacomfortablelittlehotelonthebrinkofLakeErie,laytherethatnight,andhadnochoicebuttowaittherenextday,untilasteamboatboundforBuffaloappeared.Thetown,whichwassluggishanduninterestingenough,wassomethingliket

hebackofanEnglishwatering-place,outoftheseason.

Ourhost,whowasveryattentiveandanxioustomakeuscomfortable,wasahandsomemiddle-agedman,whohadcometothistownfromNewEngland,inwhichpartofthecountryhewasraised.WhenIsaythatheconstantlywalkedinandoutoftheroomwithhishaton;andstoppedtoconverseinthesamefree-and-easystate;andlaydownonoursofa,andpulledhisnewspaperoutofhispocket,andreaditathisease;Imerelymentionthesetraitsascharacteristicofthecountry:notatallasbeingmatterofcomplaint,orashavingbeendisagreeabletome.Ishouldundoubtedlybeoffendedbysuchproceedingsathome,becausetherethey



arenotthecustom,andwheretheyarenot,theywouldbeimpertinencies;butinAmerica,theonlydesireofagood-naturedfellowofthiskind,istotreathisguestshospitablyandwell;andIhadnomoreright,andIcantrulysaynomoredisposition,tomeasurehisconductbyourEnglishruleandstandard,thanIhadtoquarrelwithhimfornotbeingoftheexactstaturewhichwouldqualifyhimforadmissionintotheQueensgrenadierguards.AslittleinclinationhadItofindfaultwithafunnyoldladywhowasanupperdomesticinthisestablishment,andwho,whenshecametowaituponusatanymeal,satherselfdowncomfortablyinthemostconvenientchair,andproducingalargepintopickherteethwith,remainedperformingthatceremony,andsteadfastlyregardingusmeanwhilewithmuchgravityandcomposure(nowandthenpressingustoeatalittlemore),untilitwastimetoclearaway.Itwasenoughforus,thatwhateverwewisheddonewasdonewithgreatcivilityandreadiness,andadesiretooblige,notonlyhere,buteverywhereelse;andthatallourwantswere,ingeneral,zealouslyanticipated.

Weweretakinganearlydinneratthishouse,onthedayafterourarrival,whichwasSunday,whenasteamboatcameinsight,andpresentlytouchedatthewharf.AssheprovedtobeonherwaytoBuffalo,wehurriedonboardwithallspeed,andsoonleftSanduskyfarbehindus.

Shewasalargevesseloffivehundredtons,andhandsomelyfittedup,thoughwithhigh-pressureengines;whichalwaysconveyedthatkindoffeelingtome,whichIshouldbelikelytoexperience,Ithink,ifIhadlodgingsonthefirst-floo

rofapowder-mill.Shewasladenwithflour,somecasksofwhichcommoditywerestoreduponthedeck.Thecaptaincominguptohavealittleconversation,andtointroduceafriend,seatedhimselfastrideofoneofthesebarrels,likeaBacchusofprivatelife;andpullingagreatclasp-knifeoutofhispocket,begantowhittleitashetalked,byparingthinslicesofftheedges.Andhewhittledwithsuchindustryandheartygoodwill,thatbutforhisbeingcalledawayverysoon,itmusthavedisappearedbodily,andleftnothinginitsplacebutgristandshavings.

Aftercallingatoneortwoflatplaces,withlowdamsstretchingoutintothelake,whereonwerestumpylighthouses,likewindmillswithoutsails,thewholelookinglikeaDutchvignette,wecameatmidnighttoCleveland,wherewelayallnight,anduntilnineoclocknextmorning.

Ientertainedquiteacuriosityinreferencetothisplace,fromhavingseenatSanduskyaspecimenofitsliteratureintheshapeofanewspaper,whichwasverystrongindeeduponthesubjectofLordAshburtonsrecentarrivalatWashington,toadjustthepointsindisputebetweentheUnitedStatesGovernmentandGreatBritain:informingitsreadersthatasAmericahadwhippedEnglandinherinfancy,andwhippedheragaininheryouth,soitwasclearlynecessarythatshemustwhipheronceagaininhermaturity;andpledgingitscredittoallTrueAmericans,thatifMr.Websterdidhisdutyintheapproachingnegotiations,andsenttheEnglishLordhomeagainindoublequicktime,theyshould,withintwoyears,singYankeeDoodleinHydePark,andHailColumbiainthescarletcourtsofWestminster!Ifounditaprettytown,andhadthesatisfactionofbeholdingtheoutsideoftheofficeofthejournalfromwhichIhavejustquoted.Ididnotenjoyth

edelightofseeingthewitwhoinditedtheparagraphinquestion,butIhavenodoubtheisaprodigiousmaninhisway,andheldinhighreputebyaselectcircle.

Therewasagentlemanonboard,towhom,asIunintentionallylearnedthroughthethinpartitionwhichdividedourstate-roomfromthecabininwhichheandhiswifeconversedtogether,Iwasunwittinglytheoccasionofverygreatuneasiness.Idontknowwhyorwherefore,butIappearedtoruninhismindperpetually,andtodissatisfyhimverymuch.FirstofallIheardhimsay:andthemostludicrouspartofthebusinesswas,thathesaiditinmyveryear,andcouldnothav



ecommunicatedmoredirectlywithme,ifhehadleaneduponmyshoulder,andwhisperedme:Bozisonboardstill,mydear.Afteraconsiderablepause,headded,complainingly,Bozkeepshimselfveryclose;whichwastrueenough,forIwasnotverywell,andwaslyingdown,withabook.Ithoughthehaddonewithmeafterthis,butIwasdeceived;foralongintervalhavingelapsed,duringwhichIimaginehimtohavebeenturningrestlesslyfromsidetoside,andtryingtogotosleep;hebrokeoutagain,withIsupposeTHATBozwillbewritingabookby-and-by,andputtingallournamesinit!atwhichimaginaryconsequenceofbeingonboardaboatwithBoz,hegroaned,andbecamesilent.

WecalledatthetownofErie,ateightoclockthatnight,andlaythereanhour.Betweenfiveandsixnextmorning,wearrivedatBuffalo,wherewebreakfasted;andbeingtooneartheGreatFallstowaitpatientlyanywhereelse,wesetoffbythetrain,thesamemorningatnineoclock,toNiagara.

Itwasamiserableday;chillyandraw;adampmistfalling;andthetreesinthatnorthernregionquitebareandwintry.Wheneverthetrainhalted,Ilistenedfortheroar;andwasconstantlystrainingmyeyesinthedirectionwhereIknewtheFallsmustbe,fromseeingtheriverrollingontowardsthem;everymomentexpectingtobeholdthespray.Withinafewminutesofourstopping,notbefore,Isawtwogreatwhitecloudsrisingupslowlyandmajesticallyfromthedepthsoftheearth.Thatwasall.Atlengthwealighted:andthenforthefirsttime,Iheardthemightyrushofwater,andfeltthegroundtrembleunderneathmyfeet.

Thebankisverysteep,andwasslipperywithrain,andhalf-meltedice.IhardlyknowhowIgotdown,butIwassoonatthebottom,andclimbing,withtwoEnglishofficerswhowerecrossingandhadjoinedme,oversomebrokenrocks,deafenedbythenoise,half-blindedbythespray,andwettotheskin.WewereatthefootoftheAmericanFall.Icouldseeanimmensetorrentofwatertearingheadlongdownfromsomegreatheight,buthadnoideaofshape,orsituation,oranythingbutvagueimmensity.

Whenwewereseatedinthelittleferry-boat,andwerecrossingtheswollenriverimmediatelybeforebothcataracts,Ibegantofeelwhatitwas:butIwasinamannerstunned,andunabletocomprehendthevastnessofthescene.ItwasnotuntilIcameonTableRock,andlookedGreatHeaven,onwhatafallofbright-gr

eenwater!thatitcameuponmeinitsfullmightandmajesty.

Then,whenIfelthowneartomyCreatorIwasstanding,thefirsteffect,andtheenduringoneinstantandlastingofthetremendousspectacle,wasPeace.PeaceofMind,tranquillity,calmrecollectionsoftheDead,greatthoughtsofEternalRestandHappiness:nothingofgloomorterror.Niagarawasatoncestampeduponmyheart,anImageofBeauty;toremainthere,changelessandindelible,untilitspulsesceasetobeat,forever.

Oh,howthestrifeandtroubleofdailyliferecededfrommyview,andlessenedinthedistance,duringthetenmemorabledayswepassedonthatEnchantedGround!Whatvoicesspokefromoutthethunderingwater;whatfaces,fadedfromtheearth,lookedoutuponmefromitsgleamingdepths;whatHeavenlypromiseglisten

edinthoseangelstears,thedropsofmanyhues,thatshoweredaround,andtwinedthemselvesaboutthegorgeousarcheswhichthechangingrainbowsmade!

IneverstirredinallthattimefromtheCanadianside,whitherIhadgoneatfirst.Inevercrossedtheriveragain;forIknewtherewerepeopleontheothershore,andinsuchaplaceitisnaturaltoshunstrangecompany.Towandertoandfroallday,andseethecataractsfromallpointsofview;tostandupontheedgeofthegreatHorse-ShoeFall,markingthehurriedwatergatheringstrengthasitapproachedtheverge,yetseeming,too,topausebeforeitshotintothegulfbelow;togazefromtheriverslevelupatthetorrentasitcamestreaming



down;toclimbtheneighbouringheightsandwatchitthroughthetrees,andseethewreathingwaterintherapidshurryingontotakeitsfearfulplunge;tolingerintheshadowofthesolemnrocksthreemilesbelow;watchingtheriveras,stirredbynovisiblecause,itheavedandeddiedandawoketheechoes,beingtroubledyet,fardownbeneaththesurface,byitsgiantleap;tohaveNiagarabeforeme,lightedbythesunandbythemoon,redinthedaysdecline,andgreyaseveningslowlyfelluponit;tolookuponiteveryday,andwakeupinthenightandhearitsceaselessvoice:thiswasenough.

Ithinkineveryquietseasonnow,stilldothosewatersrollandleap,androarandtumble,alldaylong;stillaretherainbowsspanningthem,ahundredfeetbelow.Still,whenthesunisonthem,dotheyshineandglowlikemoltengold.Still,whenthedayisgloomy,dotheyfalllikesnow,orseemtocrumbleawaylikethefrontofagreatchalkcliff,orrolldowntherocklikedensewhitesmoke.Butalwaysdoesthemightystreamappeartodieasitcomesdown,andalwaysfromitsunfathomablegravearisesthattremendousghostofsprayandmistwhichisneverlaid:whichhashauntedthisplacewiththesamedreadsolemnitysinceDarknessbroodedonthedeep,andthatfirstfloodbeforetheDelugeLightcamerushingonCreationatthewordofGod.

ChapterXVInCanada;Toronto;Kingston;Montreal;Quebec;St.Johns.IntheUnitedStatesAgain;Lebanon;theShakerVillage;WestPoint

Iwishtoabstainfrominstitutinganycomparison,ordrawinganyparallelwhatever,betweenthesocialfeaturesoftheUnitedStatesandthoseoftheBritishPossessionsinCanada.Forthisreason,Ishallconfinemyselftoaverybriefaccountofourjourneyingsinthelatterterritory.

ButbeforeIleaveNiagara,ImustadverttoonedisgustingcircumstancewhichcanhardlyhaveescapedtheobservationofanydecenttravellerwhohasvisitedtheFalls.

OnTableRock,thereisacottagebelongingtoaGuide,wherelittlerelicsoftheplacearesold,andwherevisitorsregistertheirnamesinabookkeptforthepurpose.Onthewalloftheroominwhichagreatmanyofthesevolumesarepreserved,thefollowingrequestisposted:Visitorswillpleasenotcopynorextra

cttheremarksandpoeticaleffusionsfromtheregistersandalbumskepthere.

Butforthisintimation,Ishouldhaveletthemlieuponthetablesonwhichtheywerestrewnwithcarefulnegligence,likebooksinadrawing-room:beingquitesatisfiedwiththestupendoussillinessofcertainstanzaswithananti-climaxattheendofeach,whichwereframedandhunguponthewall.Curious,however,afterreadingthisannouncement,toseewhatkindofmorselsweresocarefullypreserved,Iturnedafewleaves,andfoundthemscrawledalloverwiththevilestandthefilthiestribaldrythateverhumanhogsdelightedin.

Itishumiliatingenoughtoknowthatthereareamongmenbrutessoobsceneandworthless,thattheycandelightinlayingtheirmiserableprofanationsupontheverystepsofNaturesgreatestaltar.Butthattheseshouldbehoardedupforth

edelightoftheirfellow-swine,andkeptinapublicplacewhereanyeyesmayseethem,isadisgracetotheEnglishlanguageinwhichtheyarewritten(thoughIhopefewoftheseentrieshavebeenmadebyEnglishmen),andareproachtotheEnglishside,onwhichtheyarepreserved.

ThequartersofoursoldiersatNiagara,arefinelyandairilysituated.SomeofthemarelargedetachedhousesontheplainabovetheFalls,whichwereoriginallydesignedforhotels;andintheeveningtime,whenthewomenandchildrenwereleaningoverthebalconieswatchingthemenastheyplayedatballandothergamesuponthegrassbeforethedoor,theyoftenpresentedalittlepictureofc



heerfulnessandanimationwhichmadeitquiteapleasuretopassthatway.

AtanygarrisonedpointwherethelineofdemarcationbetweenonecountryandanotherissoverynarrowasatNiagara,desertionfromtherankscanscarcelyfailtobeoffrequentoccurrence:anditmaybereasonablysupposedthatwhenthesoldiersentertainthewildestandmaddesthopesofthefortuneandindependencethatawaitthemontheotherside,theimpulsetoplaytraitor,whichsuchaplacesuggeststodishonestminds,isnotweakened.Butitveryrarelyhappensthatthemenwhododesert,arehappyorcontentedafterwards;andmanyinstanceshavebeenknowninwhichtheyhaveconfessedtheirgrievousdisappointment,andtheirearnestdesiretoreturntotheiroldserviceiftheycouldbutbeassuredofpardon,orlenienttreatment.Manyoftheircomrades,notwithstanding,dothelike,fromtimetotime;andinstancesoflossoflifeintheefforttocrosstheriverwiththisobject,arefarfrombeinguncommon.Severalmenweredrownedintheattempttoswimacross,notlongago;andone,whohadthemadnesstotrusthimselfuponatableasaraft,wassweptdowntothewhirlpool,wherehismangledbodyeddiedroundandroundsomedays.

IaminclinedtothinkthatthenoiseoftheFallsisverymuchexaggerated;andthiswillappearthemoreprobablewhenthedepthofthegreatbasininwhichthewaterisreceived,istakenintoaccount.Atnotimeduringourstaythere,wasthewindatallhighorboisterous,butweneverheardthem,threemilesoff,evenattheveryquiettimeofsunset,thoughweoftentried.

Queenston,atwhichplacethesteamboatsstartforToronto(orIshouldrathersayatwhichplacetheycall,fortheirwharfisatLewiston,ontheoppositeshore),issituatedinadeliciousvalley,throughwhichtheNiagarariver,incolouraverydeepgreen,pursuesitscourse.Itisapproachedbyaroadthattakesitswindingwayamongtheheightsbywhichthetownissheltered;andseenfromthispointisextremelybeautifulandpicturesque.OnthemostconspicuousoftheseheightsstoodamonumenterectedbytheProvincialLegislatureinmemoryofGeneralBrock,whowasslaininabattlewiththeAmericanforces,afterhavingwonthevictory.Somevagabond,supposedtobeafellowofthenameofLett,whoisnow,orwholatelywas,inprisonasafelon,blewupthismonumenttwoyearsago,anditisnowamelancholyruin,withalongfragmentofironrailinghangingdejectedlyfromitstop,andwavingtoandfrolikeawildivybranchorbrokenvinestem.Itisofmuchhigherimportancethanitmayseem,thatthisstat

ueshouldberepairedatthepubliccost,asitoughttohavebeenlongago.Firstly,becauseitisbeneaththedignityofEnglandtoallowamemorialraisedinhonourofoneofherdefenders,toremaininthiscondition,ontheveryspotwherehedied.Secondly,becausethesightofitinitspresentstate,andtherecollectionoftheunpunishedoutragewhichbroughtittothispass,isnotverylikelytosoothedownborderfeelingsamongEnglishsubjectshere,orcomposetheirborderquarrelsanddislikes.

Iwasstandingonthewharfatthisplace,watchingthepassengersembarkinginasteamboatwhichprecededthatwhosecomingweawaited,andparticipatingintheanxietywithwhichasergeantswifewascollectingherfewgoodstogetherkeepingonedistractedeyehardupontheporters,whowerehurryingthemonboard,andtheotheronahooplesswashing-tubforwhich,asbeingthemostutterlyworth

lessofallhermovables,sheseemedtoentertainparticularaffectionwhenthreeorfoursoldierswitharecruitcameupandwentonboard.

Therecruitwasalikelyyoungfellowenough,stronglybuiltandwellmade,butbynomeanssober:indeedhehadalltheairofamanwhohadbeenmoreorlessdrunkforsomedays.Hecarriedasmallbundleoverhisshoulder,slungattheendofawalking-stick,andhadashortpipeinhismouth.Hewasasdustyanddirtyasrecruitsusuallyare,andhisshoesbetokenedthathehadtravelledonfootsomedistance,buthewasinaveryjocosestate,andshookhandswiththissoldier,andclappedthatoneontheback,andtalkedandlaughedcontinually,li



kearoaringidledogashewas.

Thesoldiersratherlaughedatthisbladethanwithhim:seemingtosay,astheystoodstraighteningtheircanesintheirhands,andlookingcoollyathimovertheirglazedstocks,Goon,myboy,whileyoumay!youllknowbetterby-and-by:whensuddenlythenovice,whohadbeenbackingtowardsthegangwayinhisnoisymerriment,felloverboardbeforetheireyes,andsplashedheavilydownintotheriverbetweenthevesselandthedock.

Ineversawsuchagoodthingasthechangethatcameoverthesesoldiersinaninstant.Almostbeforethemanwasdown,theirprofessionalmanner,theirstiffnessandconstraint,weregone,andtheywerefilledwiththemostviolentenergy.Inlesstimethanisrequiredtotellit,theyhadhimoutagain,feetfirst,withthetailsofhiscoatflappingoverhiseyes,everythingabouthimhangingthewrongway,andthewaterstreamingoffateverythreadinhisthreadbaredress.Butthemomenttheysethimuprightandfoundthathewasnonetheworse,theyweresoldiersagain,lookingovertheirglazedstocksmorecomposedlythanever.

Thehalf-soberedrecruitglancedroundforamoment,asifhisfirstimpulseweretoexpresssomegratitudeforhispreservation,butseeingthemwiththisairoftotalunconcern,andhavinghiswetpipepresentedtohimwithanoathbythesoldierwhohadbeenbyfarthemostanxiousoftheparty,hestuckitinhismouth,thrusthishandsintohismoistpockets,andwithoutevenshakingthewate

roffhisclothes,walkedonboardwhistling;nottosayasifnothinghadhappened,butasifhehadmeanttodoit,andithadbeenaperfectsuccess.

Oursteamboatcameupdirectlythishadleftthewharf,andsoonboreustothemouthoftheNiagara;wherethestarsandstripesofAmericaflutterononesideandtheUnionJackofEnglandontheother:andsonarrowisthespacebetweenthemthatthesentinelsineitherfortcanoftenhearthewatchwordoftheothercountrygiven.ThenceweemergedonLakeOntario,aninlandsea;andbyhalf-pastsixoclockwereatToronto.

Thecountryroundthistownbeingveryflat,isbareofscenicinterest;butthetownitselfisfulloflifeandmotion,bustle,business,andimprovement.Thestreetsarewellpaved,andlightedwithgas;thehousesarelargeandgood;the

shopsexcellent.Manyofthemhaveadisplayofgoodsintheirwindows,suchasmaybeseeninthrivingcountytownsinEngland;andtherearesomewhichwoulddonodiscredittothemetropolisitself.Thereisagoodstoneprisonhere;andthereare,besides,ahandsomechurch,acourt-house,publicoffices,manycommodiousprivateresidences,andagovernmentobservatoryfornotingandrecordingthemagneticvariations.IntheCollegeofUpperCanada,whichisoneofthepublicestablishmentsofthecity,asoundeducationineverydepartmentofpolitelearningcanbehad,ataverymoderateexpense:theannualchargefortheinstructionofeachpupil,notexceedingninepoundssterling.Ithasprettygoodendowmentsinthewayofland,andisavaluableandusefulinstitution.

Thefirststoneofanewcollegehadbeenlaidbutafewdaysbefore,bytheGovernorGeneral.Itwillbeahandsome,spaciousedifice,approachedbyalongave

nue,whichisalreadyplantedandmadeavailableasapublicwalk.Thetowniswelladaptedforwholesomeexerciseatallseasons,forthefootwaysinthethoroughfareswhichliebeyondtheprincipalstreet,areplankedlikefloors,andkeptinverygoodandcleanrepair.

Itisamatterofdeepregretthatpoliticaldifferencesshouldhaverunhighinthisplace,andledtomostdiscreditableanddisgracefulresults.Itisnotlongsincegunsweredischargedfromawindowinthistownatthesuccessfulcandidatesinanelection,andthecoachmanofoneofthemwasactuallyshotinthebody,thoughnotdangerouslywounded.Butonemanwaskilledonthesameoccasion



;andfromtheverywindowwhencehereceivedhisdeath,theveryflagwhichshieldedhismurderer(notonlyinthecommissionofhiscrime,butfromitsconsequences),wasdisplayedagainontheoccasionofthepublicceremonyperformedbytheGovernorGeneral,towhichIhavejustadverted.Ofallthecoloursintherainbow,thereisbutonewhichcouldbesoemployed:Ineednotsaythatflagwasorange.

ThetimeofleavingTorontoforKingstonisnoon.Byeightoclocknextmorning,thetravellerisattheendofhisjourney,whichisperformedbysteamboatuponLakeOntario,callingatPortHopeandCoburg,thelatteracheerful,thrivinglittletown.Vastquantitiesofflourformthechiefiteminthefreightofthesevessels.Wehadnofewerthanonethousandandeightybarrelsonboard,betweenCoburgandKingston.

Thelatterplace,whichisnowtheseatofgovernmentinCanada,isaverypoortown,renderedstillpoorerintheappearanceofitsmarket-placebytheravagesofarecentfire.Indeed,itmaybesaidofKingston,thatonehalfofitappearstobeburntdown,andtheotherhalfnottobebuiltup.TheGovernmentHouseisneitherelegantnorcommodious,yetitisalmosttheonlyhouseofanyimportanceintheneighbourhood.

Thereisanadmirablejailhere,wellandwiselygoverned,andexcellentlyregulated,ineveryrespect.Themenwereemployedasshoemakers,ropemakers,blacksmiths,tailors,carpenters,andstonecutters;andinbuildinganewprison,which

wasprettyfaradvancedtowardscompletion.Thefemaleprisonerswereoccupiedinneedlework.Amongthemwasabeautifulgirloftwenty,whohadbeentherenearlythreeyears.Sheactedasbearerofsecretdespatchesfortheself-styledPatriotsonNavyIsland,duringtheCanadianInsurrection:sometimesdressingasagirl,andcarryingtheminherstays;sometimesattiringherselfasaboy,andsecretingthemintheliningofherhat.Inthelattercharactershealwaysrodeasaboywould,whichwasnothingtoher,forshecouldgovernanyhorsethatanymancouldride,andcoulddrivefour-in-handwiththebestwhipinthoseparts.Settingforthononeofherpatrioticmissions,sheappropriatedtoherselfthefirsthorseshecouldlayherhandson;andthisoffencehadbroughtherwhereIsawher.Shehadquitealovelyface,though,asthereadermaysupposefromthissketchofherhistory,therewasalurkingdevilinherbrighteye,whichlookedoutprettysharplyfrombetweenherprisonbars.

Thereisabomb-proofforthereofgreatstrength,whichoccupiesaboldposition,andiscapable,doubtless,ofdoinggoodservice;thoughthetownismuchtoocloseuponthefrontiertobelongheld,Ishouldimagine,foritspresentpurposeintroubledtimes.Thereisalsoasmallnavy-yard,whereacoupleofGovernmentsteamboatswerebuilding,andgettingonvigorously.

WeleftKingstonforMontrealonthetenthofMay,athalf-pastnineinthemorning,andproceededinasteamboatdowntheSt.Lawrenceriver.Thebeautyofthisnoblestreamatalmostanypoint,butespeciallyinthecommencementofthisjourneywhenitwindsitswayamongthethousandIslands,canhardlybeimagined.Thenumberandconstantsuccessionsoftheseislands,allgreenandrichlywooded;theirfluctuatingsizes,somesolargethatforhalfanhourtogetheroneam

ongthemwillappearastheoppositebankoftheriver,andsomesosmallthattheyaremeredimplesonitsbroadbosom;theirinfinitevarietyofshapes;andthenumberlesscombinationsofbeautifulformswhichthetreesgrowingonthempresent:allformapicturefraughtwithuncommoninterestandpleasure.

Intheafternoonweshotdownsomerapidswheretheriverboiledandbubbledstrangely,andwheretheforceandheadlongviolenceofthecurrentweretremendous.AtsevenoclockwereachedDickensonsLanding,whencetravellersproceedfortwoorthreehoursbystage-coach:thenavigationoftheriverbeingrenderedsodangerousanddifficultintheinterval,byrapids,thatsteamboatsdonotmaketh



epassage.ThenumberandlengthofthosePORTAGES,overwhichtheroadsarebad,andthetravellingslow,renderthewaybetweenthetownsofMontrealandKingston,somewhattedious.

Ourcourselayoverawide,uninclosedtractofcountryatalittledistancefromtheriver-side,whencethebrightwarninglightsonthedangerouspartsoftheSt.Lawrenceshonevividly.Thenightwasdarkandraw,andthewaydrearyenough.Itwasnearlytenoclockwhenwereachedthewharfwherethenextsteamboatlay;andwentonboard,andtobed.

Shelaythereallnight,andstartedassoonasitwasday.Themorningwasusheredinbyaviolentthunderstorm,andwasverywet,butgraduallyimprovedandbrightenedup.Goingondeckafterbreakfast,Iwasamazedtoseefloatingdownwiththestream,amostgiganticraft,withsomethirtyorfortywoodenhousesuponit,andatleastasmanyflag-masts,sothatitlookedlikeanauticalstreet.Isawmanyoftheseraftsafterwards,butneveronesolarge.Allthetimber,orlumber,asitiscalledinAmerica,whichisbroughtdowntheSt.Lawrence,isfloateddowninthismanner.Whentheraftreachesitsplaceofdestination,itisbrokenup;thematerialsaresold;andtheboatmenreturnformore.

Ateightwelandedagain,andtravelledbyastage-coachforfourhoursthroughapleasantandwell-cultivatedcountry,perfectlyFrenchineveryrespect:intheappearanceofthecottages;theair,language,anddressofthepeasantry;thesign-boardsontheshopsandtaverns:andtheVirginsshrines,andcrosses,byt

hewayside.Nearlyeverycommonlabourerandboy,thoughhehadnoshoestohisfeet,woreroundhiswaistasashofsomebrightcolour:generallyred:andthewomen,whowereworkinginthefieldsandgardens,anddoingallkindsofhusbandry,wore,oneandall,greatflatstrawhatswithmostcapaciousbrims.TherewereCatholicPriestsandSistersofCharityinthevillagestreets;andimagesoftheSaviouratthecornersofcross-roads,andinotherpublicplaces.

Atnoonwewentonboardanothersteamboat,andreachedthevillageofLachine,ninemilesfromMontreal,bythreeoclock.There,welefttheriver,andwentonbyland.

MontrealispleasantlysituatedonthemarginoftheSt.Lawrence,andisbackedbysomeboldheights,aboutwhichtherearecharmingridesanddrives.Thestre

etsaregenerallynarrowandirregular,asinmostFrenchtownsofanyage;butinthemoremodernpartsofthecity,theyarewideandairy.Theydisplayagreatvarietyofverygoodshops;andbothinthetownandsuburbstherearemanyexcellentprivatedwellings.Thegranitequaysareremarkablefortheirbeauty,solidity,andextent.

ThereisaverylargeCatholiccathedralhere,recentlyerectedwithtwotallspires,ofwhichoneisyetunfinished.Intheopenspaceinfrontofthisedifice,standsasolitary,grim-looking,squarebricktower,whichhasaquaintandremarkableappearance,andwhichthewiseacresoftheplacehaveconsequentlydeterminedtopulldownimmediately.TheGovernmentHouseisverysuperiortothatatKingston,andthetownisfulloflifeandbustle.Inoneofthesuburbsisaplankroadnotfootpathfiveorsixmileslong,andafamousroaditistoo.All

theridesinthevicinityweremadedoublyinterestingbytheburstingoutofspring,whichisheresorapid,thatitisbutadaysleapfrombarrenwinter,tothebloomingyouthofsummer.

ThesteamboatstoQuebecperformthejourneyinthenight;thatistosay,theyleaveMontrealatsixintheevening,andarriveatQuebecatsixnextmorning.WemadethisexcursionduringourstayinMontreal(whichexceededafortnight),andwerecharmedbyitsinterestandbeauty.

TheimpressionmadeuponthevisitorbythisGibraltarofAmerica:itsgiddyhei



ghts;itscitadelsuspended,asitwere,intheair;itspicturesquesteepstreetsandfrowninggateways;andthesplendidviewswhichburstupontheeyeateveryturn:isatonceuniqueandlasting.

Itisaplacenottobeforgottenormixedupinthemindwithotherplaces,oralteredforamomentinthecrowdofscenesatravellercanrecall.Apartfromtherealitiesofthismostpicturesquecity,thereareassociationsclusteringaboutitwhichwouldmakeadesertrichininterest.Thedangerousprecipicealongwhoserockyfront,Wolfeandhisbravecompanionsclimbedtoglory;thePlainsofAbraham,wherehereceivedhismortalwound;thefortresssochivalrouslydefendedbyMontcalm;andhissoldiersgrave,dugforhimwhileyetalive,bytheburstingofashell;arenottheleastamongthem,oramongthegallantincidentsofhistory.ThatisanobleMonumenttoo,andworthyoftwogreatnations,whichperpetuatesthememoryofbothbravegenerals,andonwhichtheirnamesarejointlywritten.

ThecityisrichinpublicinstitutionsandinCatholicchurchesandcharities,butitismainlyintheprospectfromthesiteoftheOldGovernmentHouse,andfromtheCitadel,thatitssurpassingbeautylies.Theexquisiteexpanseofcountry,richinfieldandforest,mountain-heightandwater,whichliesstretchedoutbeforetheview,withmilesofCanadianvillages,glancinginlongwhitestreaks,likeveinsalongthelandscape;themotleycrowdofgables,roofs,andchimneytopsintheoldhillytownimmediatelyathand;thebeautifulSt.Lawrencesparklingandflashinginthesunlight;andthetinyshipsbelowtherockfromwh

ichyougaze,whosedistantrigginglookslikespiderswebsagainstthelight,whilecasksandbarrelsontheirdecksdwindleintotoys,andbusymarinersbecomesomanypuppets;allthis,framedbyasunkenwindowinthefortressandlookedatfromtheshadowedroomwithin,formsoneofthebrightestandmostenchantingpicturesthattheeyecanrestupon.

Inthespringoftheyear,vastnumbersofemigrantswhohavenewlyarrivedfromEnglandorfromIreland,passbetweenQuebecandMontrealontheirwaytothebackwoodsandnewsettlementsofCanada.Ifitbeanentertaininglounge(asIveryoftenfoundit)totakeamorningstrolluponthequayatMontreal,andseethemgroupedinhundredsonthepublicwharfsabouttheirchestsandboxes,itismatterofdeepinteresttobetheirfellow-passengerononeofthesesteamboats,andminglingwiththeconcourse,seeandhearthemunobserved.

ThevesselinwhichwereturnedfromQuebectoMontrealwascrowdedwiththem,andatnighttheyspreadtheirbedsbetweendecks(thosewhohadbeds,atleast),andsleptsocloseandthickaboutourcabindoor,thatthepassagetoandfrowasquiteblockedup.TheywerenearlyallEnglish;fromGloucestershirethegreaterpart;andhadhadalongwinter-passageout;butitwaswonderfultoseehowcleanthechildrenhadbeenkept,andhowuntiringintheirloveandself-denialallthepoorparentswere.

Cantaswemay,andasweshalltotheendofallthings,itisverymuchharderforthepoortobevirtuousthanitisfortherich;andthegoodthatisinthem,shinesthebrighterforit.Inmanyanoblemansionlivesaman,thebestofhusbandsandoffathers,whoseprivateworthinbothcapacitiesisjustlylaude

dtotheskies.Butbringhimhere,uponthiscrowdeddeck.Stripfromhisfairyoungwifehersilkendressandjewels,unbindherbraidedhair,stampearlywrinklesonherbrow,pinchherpalecheekwithcareandmuchprivation,arrayherfadedformincoarselypatchedattire,lettherebenothingbuthislovetosetherforthordeckherout,andyoushallputittotheproofindeed.Sochangehisstationintheworld,thatheshallseeinthoseyoungthingswhoclimbabouthisknee:notrecordsofhiswealthandname:butlittlewrestlerswithhimforhisdailybread;somanypoachersonhisscantymeal;somanyunitstodividehiseverysumofcomfort,andfarthertoreduceitssmallamount.Inlieuoftheendearmentsofchildhoodinitssweetestaspect,heapuponhimallitspainsand



wants,itssicknessesandills,itsfretfulness,caprice,andquerulousendurance:letitsprattlebe,notofengaginginfantfancies,butofcold,andthirst,andhunger:andifhisfatherlyaffectionoutliveallthis,andhebepatient,watchful,tender;carefulofhischildrenslives,andmindfulalwaysoftheirjoysandsorrows;thensendhimbacktoParliament,andPulpit,andtoQuarterSessions,andwhenhehearsfinetalkofthedepravityofthosewholivefromhandtomouth,andlabourhardtodoit,lethimspeakup,asonewhoknows,andtellthoseholdersforththatthey,byparallelwithsuchaclass,shouldbeHighAngelsintheirdailylives,andlaybuthumblesiegetoHeavenatlast.

Whichofusshallsaywhathewouldbe,ifsuchrealities,withsmallrelieforchangeallthroughhisdays,werehis!Lookingrounduponthesepeople:farfromhome,houseless,indigent,wandering,wearywithtravelandhardliving:andseeinghowpatientlytheynursedandtendedtheiryoungchildren:howtheyconsultedevertheirwantsfirst,thenhalfsuppliedtheirown;whatgentleministersofhopeandfaiththewomenwere;howthemenprofitedbytheirexample;andhowvery,veryseldomevenamomentspetulanceorharshcomplaintbrokeoutamongthem:Ifeltastrongerloveandhonourofmykindcomeglowingonmyheart,andwishedtoGodtherehadbeenmanyAtheistsinthebetterpartofhumannaturethere,toreadthissimplelessoninthebookofLife.

WeleftMontrealforNewYorkagain,onthethirtiethofMay,crossingtoLaPrairie,ontheoppositeshoreoftheSt.Lawrence,inasteamboat;wethentooktherailroadtoSt.Johns,whichisonthebrinkofLakeChamplain.Ourlastgreeti

nginCanadawasfromtheEnglishofficersinthepleasantbarracksatthatplace(aclassofgentlemenwhohadmadeeveryhourofourvisitmemorablebytheirhospitalityandfriendship);andwithRuleBritanniasoundinginourears,soonleftitfarbehind.

ButCanadahasheld,andalwayswillretain,aforemostplaceinmyremembrance.FewEnglishmenarepreparedtofinditwhatitis.Advancingquietly;olddifferencessettlingdown,andbeingfastforgotten;publicfeelingandprivateenterprisealikeinasoundandwholesomestate;nothingofflushorfeverinitssystem,buthealthandvigourthrobbinginitssteadypulse:itisfullofhopeandpromise.Tomewhohadbeenaccustomedtothinkofitassomethingleftbehindinthestridesofadvancingsociety,assomethingneglectedandforgotten,slumberingandwastinginitssleepthedemandforlabourandtheratesofwages;the

busyquaysofMontreal;thevesselstakingintheircargoes,anddischargingthem;theamountofshippinginthedifferentports;thecommerce,roads,andpublicworks,allmadeTOLAST;therespectabilityandcharacterofthepublicjournals;andtheamountofrationalcomfortandhappinesswhichhonestindustrymayearn:wereverygreatsurprises.Thesteamboatsonthelakes,intheirconveniences,cleanliness,andsafety;inthegentlemanlycharacterandbearingoftheircaptains;andinthepolitenessandperfectcomfortoftheirsocialregulations;areunsurpassedevenbythefamousScotchvessels,deservedlysomuchesteemedathome.Theinnsareusuallybad;becausethecustomofboardingathotelsisnotsogeneralhereasintheStates,andtheBritishofficers,whoformalargeportionofthesocietyofeverytown,livechieflyattheregimentalmesses:butineveryotherrespect,thetravellerinCanadawillfindasgoodprovisionforhiscomfortasinanyplaceIknow.

ThereisoneAmericanboatthevesselwhichcarriedusonLakeChamplain,fromSt.JohnstoWhitehallwhichIpraiseveryhighly,butnomorethanitdeserves,whenIsaythatitissuperioreventothatinwhichwewentfromQueenstontoToronto,ortothatinwhichwetravelledfromthelatterplacetoKingston,orIhavenodoubtImayaddtoanyotherintheworld.Thissteamboat,whichiscalledtheBurlington,isaperfectlyexquisiteachievementofneatness,elegance,andorder.Thedecksaredrawing-rooms;thecabinsareboudoirs,choicelyfurnishedandadornedwithprints,pictures,andmusicalinstruments;everynookandcornerinthevesselisaperfectcuriosityofgracefulcomfortandbeautifulcont



rivance.CaptainSherman,hercommander,towhoseingenuityandexcellenttastetheseresultsaresolelyattributable,hasbravelyandworthilydistinguishedhimselfonmorethanonetryingoccasion:notleastamongthem,inhavingthemoralcouragetocarryBritishtroops,atatime(duringtheCanadianrebellion)whennootherconveyancewasopentothem.Heandhisvesselareheldinuniversalrespect,bothbyhisowncountrymenandours;andnomaneverenjoyedthepopularesteem,who,inhissphereofaction,wonandworeitbetterthanthisgentleman.

BymeansofthisfloatingpalaceweweresoonintheUnitedStatesagain,andcalledthateveningatBurlington;aprettytown,wherewelayanhourorso.WereachedWhitehall,whereweweretodisembark,atsixnextmorning;andmighthavedonesoearlier,butthatthesesteamboatsliebyforsomehoursinthenight,inconsequenceofthelakebecomingverynarrowatthatpartofthejourney,anddifficultofnavigationinthedark.Itswidthissocontractedatonepoint,indeed,thattheyareobligedtowarproundbymeansofarope.

AfterbreakfastingatWhitehall,wetookthestage-coachforAlbany:alargeandbusytown,wherewearrivedbetweenfiveandsixoclockthatafternoon;afteraveryhotdaysjourney,forwewerenowintheheightofsummeragain.AtsevenwestartedforNewYorkonboardagreatNorthRiversteamboat,whichwassocrowdedwithpassengersthattheupperdeckwasliketheboxlobbyofatheatrebetweenthepieces,andtheloweronelikeTottenhamCourtRoadonaSaturdaynight.Butwesleptsoundly,notwithstanding,andsoonafterfiveoclocknextmorningre

achedNewYork.

Tarryinghere,onlythatdayandnight,torecruitafterourlatefatigues,westartedoffoncemoreuponourlastjourneyinAmerica.WehadyetfivedaystosparebeforeembarkingforEngland,andIhadagreatdesiretoseetheShakerVillage,whichispeopledbyareligioussectfromwhomittakesitsname.

Tothisend,wewentuptheNorthRiveragain,asfarasthetownofHudson,andtherehiredanextratocarryustoLebanon,thirtymilesdistant:andofcourseanotherandadifferentLebanonfromthatvillagewhereIsleptonthenightofthePrairietrip.

Thecountrythroughwhichtheroadmeandered,wasrichandbeautiful;theweathe

rveryfine;andformanymilestheKaatskillmountains,whereRipVanWinkleandtheghostlyDutchmenplayedatninepinsonememorablegustyafternoon,toweredinthebluedistance,likestatelyclouds.Atonepoint,asweascendedasteephill,athwartwhosebasearailroad,yetconstructing,tookitscourse,wecameuponanIrishcolony.Withmeansathandofbuildingdecentcabins,itwaswonderfultoseehowclumsy,rough,andwretched,itshovelswere.Thebestwerepoorprotectionfromtheweathertheworstletinthewindandrainthroughwidebreachesintheroofsofsoddengrass,andinthewallsofmud;somehadneitherdoornorwindow;somehadnearlyfallendown,andwereimperfectlyproppedupbystakesandpoles;allwereruinousandfilthy.Hideouslyuglyoldwomenandverybuxomyoungones,pigs,dogs,men,children,babies,pots,kettles,dung-hills,vilerefuse,rankstraw,andstandingwater,allwallowingtogetherinaninseparableheap,composedthefurnitureofeverydarkanddirtyhut.

Betweennineandtenoclockatnight,wearrivedatLebanonwhichisrenownedforitswarmbaths,andforagreathotel,welladapted,Ihavenodoubt,tothegregarioustasteofthoseseekersafterhealthorpleasurewhorepairhere,butinexpressiblycomfortlesstome.Wewereshownintoanimmenseapartment,lightedbytwodimcandles,calledthedrawing-room:fromwhichtherewasadescentbyaflightofsteps,toanothervastdesert,calledthedining-room:ourbed-chamberswereamongcertainlongrowsoflittlewhite-washedcells,whichopenedfromeithersideofadrearypassage;andweresolikeroomsinaprisonthatIhalfexpectedtobelockedupwhenIwenttobed,andlistenedinvoluntarilyforthe



turningofthekeyontheoutside.Thereneedbebathssomewhereintheneighbourhood,fortheotherwashingarrangementswereonaslimitedascaleasIeversaw,eveninAmerica:indeed,thesebedroomsweresoverybareofevensuchcommonluxuriesaschairs,thatIshouldsaytheywerenotprovidedwithenoughofanything,butthatIbethinkmyselfofourhavingbeenmostbountifullybittenallnight.

Thehouseisverypleasantlysituated,however,andwehadagoodbreakfast.Thatdone,wewenttovisitourplaceofdestination,whichwassometwomilesoff,andthewaytowhichwassoonindicatedbyafinger-post,whereonwaspainted,TotheShakerVillage.

Aswerodealong,wepassedapartyofShakers,whowereatworkupontheroad;whoworethebroadestofallbroad-brimmedhats;andwereinallvisiblerespectssuchverywoodenmen,thatIfeltaboutasmuchsympathyforthem,andasmuchinterestinthem,asiftheyhadbeensomanyfigure-headsofships.Presentlywecametothebeginningofthevillage,andalightingatthedoorofahousewheretheShakermanufacturesaresold,andwhichistheheadquartersoftheelders,requestedpermissiontoseetheShakerworship.

Pendingtheconveyanceofthisrequesttosomepersoninauthority,wewalkedintoagrimroom,whereseveralgrimhatswerehangingongrimpegs,andthetimewasgrimlytoldbyagrimclockwhichutteredeverytickwithakindofstruggle,asifitbrokethegrimsilencereluctantly,andunderprotest.Rangedagainst

thewallweresixoreightstiff,high-backedchairs,andtheypartooksostronglyofthegeneralgrimnessthatonewouldmuchratherhavesatonthefloorthanincurredthesmallestobligationtoanyofthem.

Presently,therestalkedintothisapartment,agrimoldShaker,witheyesashard,anddull,andcold,asthegreatroundmetalbuttonsonhiscoatandwaistcoat;asortofcalmgoblin.Beinginformedofourdesire,heproducedanewspaperwhereinthebodyofelders,whereofhewasamember,hadadvertisedbutafewdaysbefore,thatinconsequenceofcertainunseemlyinterruptionswhichtheirworshiphadreceivedfromstrangers,theirchapelwasclosedtothepublicforthespaceofoneyear.

Asnothingwastobeurgedinoppositiontothisreasonablearrangement,werequ

estedleavetomakesometriflingpurchasesofShakergoods;whichwasgrimlyconceded.Weaccordinglyrepairedtoastoreinthesamehouseandontheoppositesideofthepassage,wherethestockwaspresidedoverbysomethingaliveinarussetcase,whichtheeldersaidwasawoman;andwhichIsupposeWASawoman,thoughIshouldnothavesuspectedit.

Ontheoppositesideoftheroadwastheirplaceofworship:acool,cleanedificeofwood,withlargewindowsandgreenblinds:likeaspacioussummer-house.Astherewasnogettingintothisplace,andnothingwastobedonebutwalkupanddown,andlookatitandtheotherbuildingsinthevillage(whichwerechieflyofwood,paintedadarkredlikeEnglishbarns,andcomposedofmanystorieslikeEnglishfactories),Ihavenothingtocommunicatetothereader,beyondthescantyresultsIgleanedthewhileourpurchasesweremaking,

ThesepeoplearecalledShakersfromtheirpeculiarformofadoration,whichconsistsofadance,performedbythemenandwomenofallages,whoarrangethemselvesforthatpurposeinoppositeparties:themenfirstdivestingthemselvesoftheirhatsandcoats,whichtheygravelyhangagainstthewallbeforetheybegin;andtyingaribbonroundtheirshirt-sleeves,asthoughtheyweregoingtobebled.Theyaccompanythemselveswithadroning,hummingnoise,anddanceuntiltheyarequiteexhausted,alternatelyadvancingandretiringinapreposteroussortoftrot.Theeffectissaidtobeunspeakablyabsurd:andifImayjudgefromaprintofthisceremonywhichIhaveinmypossession;andwhichIaminforme



dbythosewhohavevisitedthechapel,isperfectlyaccurate;itmustbeinfinitelygrotesque.

Theyaregovernedbyawoman,andherruleisunderstoodtobeabsolute,thoughshehastheassistanceofacouncilofelders.Shelives,itissaid,instrictseclusion,incertainroomsabovethechapel,andisnevershowntoprofaneeyes.Ifsheatallresembletheladywhopresidedoverthestore,itisagreatcharitytokeepherascloseaspossible,andIcannottoostronglyexpressmyperfectconcurrenceinthisbenevolentproceeding.

Allthepossessionsandrevenuesofthesettlementarethrownintoacommonstock,whichismanagedbytheelders.Astheyhavemadeconvertsamongpeoplewhowerewelltodointheworld,andarefrugalandthrifty,itisunderstoodthatthisfundprospers:themoreespeciallyastheyhavemadelargepurchasesofland.NoristhisatLebanontheonlyShakersettlement:thereare,Ithink,atleast,threeothers.

Theyaregoodfarmers,andalltheirproduceiseagerlypurchasedandhighlyesteemed.Shakerseeds,Shakerherbs,andShakerdistilledwaters,arecommonlyannoforsaleintheshopsoftownsandcities.Theyaregoodbreedersofcattle,andarekindandmercifultothebrutecreation.Consequently,Shakerbeastsseldomfailtofindareadymarket.

Theyeatanddrinktogether,aftertheSpartanmodel,atagreatpublictable.T

hereisnounionofthesexes,andeveryShaker,maleandfemale,isdevotedtoalifeofcelibacy.Rumourhasbeenbusyuponthistheme,buthereagainImustrefertotheladyofthestore,andsay,thatifmanyofthesisterShakersresembleher,Itreatallsuchslanderasbearingonitsfacethestrongestmarksofwildimprobability.Butthattheytakeasproselytes,personssoyoungthattheycannotknowtheirownminds,andcannotpossessmuchstrengthofresolutioninthisoranyotherrespect,IcanassertfrommyownobservationoftheextremejuvenilityofcertainyouthfulShakerswhomIsawatworkamongthepartyontheroad.

Theyaresaidtobegooddriversofbargains,buttobehonestandjustintheirtransactions,andeveninhorse-dealingtoresistthosethievishtendencieswhichwouldseem,forsomeundiscoveredreason,tobealmostinseparablefromthat

branchoftraffic.Inallmatterstheyholdtheirowncoursequietly,liveintheirgloomy,silentcommonwealth,andshowlittledesiretointerferewithotherpeople.

Thisiswellenough,butneverthelessIcannot,Iconfess,inclinetowardstheShakers;viewthemwithmuchfavour,orextendtowardsthemanyverylenientconstruction.Isoabhor,andfrommysouldetestthatbadspirit,nomatterbywhatclassorsectitmaybeentertained,whichwouldstriplifeofitshealthfulgraces,robyouthofitsinnocentpleasures,pluckfrommaturityandagetheirpleasantornaments,andmakeexistencebutanarrowpathtowardsthegrave:thatodiousspiritwhich,ifitcouldhavehadfullscopeandswayupontheearth,musthaveblastedandmadebarrentheimaginationsofthegreatestmen,andleftthem,intheirpowerofraisingupenduringimagesbeforetheirfellow-creaturesye

tunborn,nobetterthanthebeasts:that,intheseverybroad-brimmedhatsandverysombrecoatsinstiff-necked,solemn-visagedpiety,inshort,nomatterwhatitsgarb,whetherithavecroppedhairasinaShakervillage,orlongnailsasinaHindootempleIrecognisetheworstamongtheenemiesofHeavenandEarth,whoturnthewateratthemarriagefeastsofthispoorworld,notintowine,butgall.Andiftheremustbepeoplevowedtocrushtheharmlessfanciesandtheloveofinnocentdelightsandgaieties,whichareapartofhumannature:asmuchapartofitasanyotherloveorhopethatisourcommonportion:letthem,forme,standopenlyrevealedamongtheribaldandlicentious;theveryidiotsknowthatTHEYarenotontheImmortalroad,andwilldespisethem,andavoidthe



mreadily.

LeavingtheShakervillagewithaheartydislikeoftheoldShakers,andaheartypityfortheyoungones:temperedbythestrongprobabilityoftheirrunningawayastheygrowolderandwiser,whichtheynotuncommonlydo:wereturnedtoLebanon,andsotoHudson,bythewaywehadcomeuponthepreviousday.There,wetookthesteamboatdowntheNorthRivertowardsNewYork,butstopped,somefourhoursjourneyshortofit,atWestPoint,whereweremainedthatnight,andallnextday,andnextnighttoo.

Inthisbeautifulplace:thefairestamongthefairandlovelyHighlandsoftheNorthRiver:shutinbydeepgreenheightsandruinedforts,andlookingdownuponthedistanttownofNewburgh,alongaglitteringpathofsunlitwater,withhereandthereaskiff,whosewhitesailoftenbendsonsomenewtackassuddenflawsofwindcomedownuponherfromthegulliesinthehills:hemmedin,besides,allroundwithmemoriesofWashington,andeventsoftherevolutionarywar:istheMilitarySchoolofAmerica.

Itcouldnotstandonmoreappropriateground,andanygroundmorebeautifulcanhardlybe.Thecourseofeducationissevere,butwelldevised,andmanly.ThroughJune,July,andAugust,theyoungmenencampuponthespaciousplainwhereonthecollegestands;andalltheyeartheirmilitaryexercisesareperformedthere,daily.Thetermofstudyatthisinstitution,whichtheStaterequiresfromallcadets,isfouryears;but,whetheritbefromtherigidnatureofthedisci

pline,orthenationalimpatienceofrestraint,orbothcausescombined,notmorethanhalfthenumberwhobegintheirstudieshere,everremaintofinishthem.

ThenumberofcadetsbeingaboutequaltothatofthemembersofCongress,oneissentherefromeveryCongressionaldistrict:itsmemberinfluencingtheselection.Commissionsintheservicearedistributedonthesameprinciple.ThedwellingsofthevariousProfessorsarebeautifullysituated;andthereisamostexcellenthotelforstrangers,thoughithasthetwodrawbacksofbeingatotalabstinencehouse(winesandspiritsbeingforbiddentothestudents),andofservingthepublicmealsatratheruncomfortablehours:towit,breakfastatseven,dinneratone,andsupperatsunset.

Thebeautyandfreshnessofthiscalmretreat,intheverydawnandgreennessof

summeritwasthenthebeginningofJunewereexquisiteindeed.Leavingituponthesixth,andreturningtoNewYork,toembarkforEnglandonthesucceedingday,Iwasgladtothinkthatamongthelastmemorablebeautieswhichhadglidedpastus,andsoftenedinthebrightperspective,werethosewhosepictures,tracedbynocommonhand,arefreshinmostmensminds;noteasilytogrowold,orfadebeneaththedustofTime:theKaatskillMountains,SleepyHollow,andtheTappaanZee.

ChapterXVIThePassageHome

INEVERhadsomuchinterestbefore,andverylikelyIshallneverhavesomuchinterestagain,inthestateofthewind,asonthelong-looked-formorningofT

uesdaytheSeventhofJune.Somenauticalauthorityhadtoldmeadayortwoprevious,anythingwithwestinit,willdo;sowhenIdartedoutofbedatdaylight,andthrowingupthewindow,wassalutedbyalivelybreezefromthenorth-westwhichhadsprungupinthenight,itcameuponmesofreshly,rustlingwithsomanyhappyassociations,thatIconceiveduponthespotaspecialregardforallairsblowingfromthatquarterofthecompass,whichIshallcherish,Idaresay,untilmyownwindhasbreatheditslastfrailpuff,andwithdrawnitselfforeverfromthemortalcalendar.

Thepilothadnotbeenslowtotakeadvantageofthisfavourableweather,andth



eshipwhichyesterdayhadbeeninsuchacrowdeddockthatshemighthaveretiredfromtradeforgoodandall,foranychancesheseemedtohaveofgoingtosea,wasnowfullsixteenmilesaway.Agallantsightshewas,whenwe,fastgainingonherinasteamboat,sawherinthedistanceridingatanchor:hertallmastspointingupingracefullinesagainstthesky,andeveryropeandsparexpressedindelicateandthread-likeoutline:gallant,too,when,webeingallaboard,theanchorcameuptothesturdychorusCheerilymen,ohcheerily!andshefollowedproudlyinthetowingsteamboatswake:butbravestandmostgallantofall,whenthetow-ropebeingcastadrift,thecanvasflutteredfromhermasts,andspreadingherwhitewingsshesoaredawayuponherfreeandsolitarycourse.

Intheaftercabinwewereonlyfifteenpassengersinall,andthegreaterpartwerefromCanada,wheresomeofushadknowneachother.Thenightwasroughandsqually,sowerethenexttwodays,buttheyflewbyquickly,andweweresoonascheerfulandsnugaparty,withanhonest,manly-heartedcaptainatourhead,asevercametotheresolutionofbeingmutuallyagreeable,onlandorwater.

Webreakfastedateight,lunchedattwelve,dinedatthree,andtookourteaathalf-pastseven.Wehadabundanceofamusements,anddinnerwasnottheleastamongthem:firstly,foritsownsake;secondly,becauseofitsextraordinarylength:itsduration,inclusiveofallthelongpausesbetweenthecourses,beingseldomlessthantwohoursandahalf;whichwasasubjectofnever-failingentertainment.Bywayofbeguilingthetediousnessofthesebanquets,aselectassociationwasformedatthelowerendofthetable,belowthemast,towhosedistingu

ishedpresidentmodestyforbidsmetomakeanyfurtherallusion,which,beingaveryhilariousandjovialinstitution,was(prejudiceapart)inhighfavourwiththerestofthecommunity,andparticularlywithablacksteward,wholivedforthreeweeksinabroadgrinatthemarvelloushumouroftheseincorporatedworthies.

Then,wehadchessforthosewhoplayedit,whist,cribbage,books,backgammon,andshovelboard.Inallweathers,fairorfoul,calmorwindy,wewereeveryoneondeck,walkingupanddowninpairs,lyingintheboats,leaningovertheside,orchattinginalazygrouptogether.Wehadnolackofmusic,foroneplayedtheaccordion,anothertheviolin,andanother(whousuallybeganatsixoclockA.M.)thekey-bugle:thecombinedeffectofwhichinstruments,whentheyallplayeddifferenttunesindifferentspartsoftheship,atthesametime,andwithi

nhearingofeachother,astheysometimesdid(everybodybeingintenselysatisfiedwithhisownperformance),wassublimelyhideous.

Whenallthesemeansofentertainmentfailed,asailwouldheaveinsight:looming,perhaps,theveryspiritofaship,inthemistydistance,orpassingussoclosethatthroughourglasseswecouldseethepeopleonherdecks,andeasilymakeouthername,andwhithershewasbound.Forhourstogetherwecouldwatchthedolphinsandporpoisesastheyrolledandleapedanddivedaroundthevessel;orthosesmallcreatureseveronthewing,theMotherCareyschickens,whichhadborneuscompanyfromNewYorkbay,andforawholefortnightflutteredaboutthevesselsstern.Forsomedayswehadadeadcalm,orverylightwinds,duringwhichthecrewamusedthemselveswithfishing,andhookedanunluckydolphin,whoexpired,inallhisrainbowcolours,onthedeck:aneventofsuchimportance

inourbarrencalendar,thatafterwardswedatedfromthedolphin,andmadethedayonwhichhedied,anera.

Besidesallthis,whenwewerefiveorsixdaysout,therebegantobemuchtalkoficebergs,ofwhichwanderingislandsanunusualnumberhadbeenseenbythevesselsthathadcomeintoNewYorkadayortwobeforeweleftthatport,andofwhosedangerousneighbourhoodwewerewarnedbythesuddencoldnessoftheweather,andthesinkingofthemercuryinthebarometer.Whilethesetokenslasted,adoublelook-outwaskept,andmanydismaltaleswerewhisperedafterdark,ofshipsthathadstruckupontheiceandgonedowninthenight;butthewindob



ligingustoholdasouthwardcourse,wesawnoneofthem,andtheweathersoongrewbrightandwarmagain.

Theobservationeverydayatnoon,andthesubsequentworkingofthevesselscourse,was,asmaybesupposed,afeatureinourlivesofparamountimportance;norweretherewanting(asthereneverare)sagaciousdoubtersofthecaptainscalculations,who,sosoonashisbackwasturned,would,intheabsenceofcompasses,measurethechartwithbitsofstring,andendsofpocket-handkerchiefs,andpointsofsnuffers,andclearlyprovehimtobewrongbyanoddthousandmilesorso.Itwasveryedifyingtoseetheseunbelieversshaketheirheadsandfrown,andhearthemholdforthstronglyuponnavigation:notthattheyknewanythingaboutit,butthattheyalwaysmistrustedthecaptainincalmweather,orwhenthewindwasadverse.Indeed,themercuryitselfisnotsovariableasthisclassofpassengers,whomyouwillsee,whentheshipisgoingnoblythroughthewater,quitepalewithadmiration,swearingthatthecaptainbeatsallcaptainseverknown,andevenhintingatsubscriptionsforapieceofplate;andwho,nextmorning,whenthebreezehaslulled,andallthesailshanguselessintheidleair,shaketheirdespondentheadsagain,andsay,withscrewed-uplips,theyhopethatcaptainisasailorbuttheyshrewdlydoubthim.

Itevenbecameanoccupationinthecalm,towonderwhenthewindWOULDspringupinthefavourablequarter,where,itwasclearlyshownbyalltherulesandprecedents,itoughttohavesprunguplongago.Thefirstmate,whowhistledforitzealously,wasmuchrespectedforhisperseverance,andwasregardedevenby

theunbelieversasafirst-ratesailor.Manygloomylookswouldbecastupwardthroughthecabinskylightsattheflappingsailswhiledinnerwasinprogress;andsome,growingboldinruefulness,predictedthatweshouldlandaboutthemiddleofJuly.Therearealwaysonboardship,aSanguineOne,andaDespondentOne.Thelattercharactercarriedithollowatthisperiodofthevoyage,andtriumphedovertheSanguineOneateverymeal,byinquiringwherehesupposedtheGreatWestern(whichleftNewYorkaweekafterus)wasNOW:andwherehesupposedtheCunardsteam-packetwasNOW:andwhathethoughtofsailingvessels,ascomparedwithsteamshipsNOW:andsobesethislifewithpestilentattacksofthatkind,thathetoowasobligedtoaffectdespondency,forverypeaceandquietude.

Thesewereadditionstothelistofentertainingincidents,buttherewasstillanothersourceofinterest.Wecarriedinthesteeragenearlyahundredpassenge

rs:alittleworldofpoverty:andaswecametoknowindividualsamongthembysight,fromlookingdownuponthedeckwheretheytooktheairinthedaytime,andcookedtheirfood,andveryoftenateittoo,webecamecurioustoknowtheirhistories,andwithwhatexpectationstheyhadgoneouttoAmerica,andonwhaterrandstheyweregoinghome,andwhattheircircumstanceswere.Theinformationwegotontheseheadsfromthecarpenter,whohadchargeofthesepeople,wasoftenofthestrangestkind.SomeofthemhadbeeninAmericabutthreedays,somebutthreemonths,andsomehadgoneoutinthelastvoyageofthatveryshipinwhichtheywerenowreturninghome.Othershadsoldtheirclothestoraisethepassage-money,andhadhardlyragstocoverthem;othershadnofood,andliveduponthecharityoftherest:andoneman,itwasdiscoverednearlyattheendofthevoyage,notbeforeforhekepthissecretclose,anddidnotcourtcompassionhadhadnosustenancewhateverbutthebonesandscrapsoffathetookfro

mtheplatesusedintheafter-cabindinner,whentheywereputouttobewashed.

Thewholesystemofshippingandconveyingtheseunfortunatepersons,isonethatstandsinneedofthoroughrevision.IfanyclassdeservetobeprotectedandassistedbytheGovernment,itisthatclasswhoarebanishedfromtheirnativelandinsearchofthebaremeansofsubsistence.Allthatcouldbedoneforthesepoorpeoplebythegreatcompassionandhumanityofthecaptainandofficerswasdone,buttheyrequiremuchmore.Thelawisbound,atleastupontheEnglishside,toseethattoomanyofthemarenotputonboardoneship:andthatthei



raccommodationsaredecent:notdemoralising,andprofligate.Itisbound,too,incommonhumanity,todeclarethatnomanshallbetakenonboardwithouthisstockofprovisionsbeingpreviouslyinspectedbysomeproperofficer,andpronouncedmoderatelysufficientforhissupportuponthevoyage.Itisboundtoprovide,ortorequirethattherebeprovided,amedicalattendant;whereasintheseshipstherearenone,thoughsicknessofadults,anddeathsofchildren,onthepassage,aremattersoftheverycommonestoccurrence.AboveallitisthedutyofanyGovernment,beitmonarchyorrepublic,tointerposeandputanendtothatsystembywhichafirmoftradersinemigrantspurchaseoftheownersthewholetween-decksofaship,andsendonboardasmanywretchedpeopleastheycanlayholdof,onanytermstheycanget,withoutthesmallestreferencetotheconveniencesofthesteerage,thenumberofberths,theslightestseparationofthesexes,oranythingbuttheirownimmediateprofit.Noriseventhistheworstofthevicioussystem:for,certaincrimpingagentsofthesehouses,whohaveapercentageonallthepassengerstheyinveigle,areconstantlytravellingaboutthosedistrictswherepovertyanddiscontentarerife,andtemptingthecredulousintomoremisery,byholdingoutmonstrousinducementstoemigrationwhichcanneverberealised.

Thehistoryofeveryfamilywehadonboardwasprettymuchthesame.Afterhoardingup,andborrowing,andbegging,andsellingeverythingtopaythepassage,theyhadgoneouttoNewYork,expectingtofinditsstreetspavedwithgold;andhadfoundthempavedwithveryhardandveryrealstones.Enterprisewasdull;labourerswerenotwanted;jobsofworkweretobegot,butthepaymentwasnot

.Theywerecomingback,evenpoorerthantheywent.OneofthemwascarryinganopenletterfromayoungEnglishartisan,whohadbeeninNewYorkafortnight,toafriendnearManchester,whomhestronglyurgedtofollowhim.Oneoftheofficersbroughtittomeasacuriosity.Thisisthecountry,Jem,saidthewriter.IlikeAmerica.Thereisnodespotismhere;thatsthegreatthing.Employmentofallsortsisgoinga-begging,andwagesarecapital.Youhaveonlytochooseatrade,Jem,andbeit.Ihaventmadechoiceofoneyet,butIshallsoon.ATPRESENTIHAVENTQUITEMADEUPMYMINDWHETHERTOBEACARPENTERORATAILOR.

Therewasyetanotherkindofpassenger,andbutonemore,who,inthecalmandthelightwinds,wasaconstantthemeofconversationandobservationamongus.ThiswasanEnglishsailor,asmart,thorough-built,Englishman-of-wars-manfromhishattohisshoes,whowasservingintheAmericannavy,andhavinggotleav

eofabsencewasonhiswayhometoseehisfriends.Whenhepresentedhimselftotakeandpayforhispassage,ithadbeensuggestedtohimthatbeinganableseamanhemightaswellworkitandsavethemoney,butthispieceofadviceheveryindignantlyrejected:saying,Hedbedamnedbutforoncehedgoaboardship,asagentleman.Accordingly,theytookhismoney,buthenosoonercameaboard,thanhestowedhiskitintheforecastle,arrangedtomesswiththecrew,andtheveryfirsttimethehandswereturnedup,wentaloftlikeacat,beforeanybody.Andallthroughthepassagetherehewas,firstatthebraces,outermostontheyards,perpetuallylendingahandeverywhere,butalwayswithasoberdignityinhismanner,andasobergrinonhisface,whichplainlysaid,Idoitasagentleman.Formyownpleasure,mindyou!

Atlengthandatlast,thepromisedwindcameupinrightgoodearnest,andaway

wewentbeforeit,witheverystitchofcanvasset,slashingthroughthewaternobly.Therewasagrandeurinthemotionofthesplendidship,asovershadowedbyhermassofsails,sherodeatafuriouspaceuponthewaves,whichfilledonewithanindescribablesenseofprideandexultation.Assheplungedintoafoamingvalley,howIlovedtoseethegreenwaves,bordereddeepwithwhite,comerushingonastern,tobuoyherupwardattheirpleasure,andcurlaboutherasshestoopedagain,butalwaysownherfortheirhaughtymistressstill!On,onweflew,withchanginglightsuponthewater,beingnowintheblessedregionoffleecyskies;abrightsunlightingusbyday,andabrightmoonbynight;thevanepointingdirectlyhomeward,alikethetruthfulindextothefavouringwindan



dtoourcheerfulhearts;untilatsunrise,onefairMondaymorningthetwenty-seventhofJune,Ishallnoteasilyforgetthedaytherelaybeforeus,oldCapeClear,Godblessit,showing,inthemistofearlymorning,likeacloud:thebrightestandmostwelcomecloud,tous,thateverhidthefaceofHeavensfallensisterHome.

Dimspeckasitwasinthewideprospect,itmadethesunriseamorecheerfulsight,andgavetoitthatsortofhumaninterestwhichitseemstowantatsea.There,aselsewhere,thereturnofdayisinseparablefromsomesenseofrenewedhopeandgladness;butthelightshiningonthedrearywasteofwater,andshowingitinallitsvastextentofloneliness,presentsasolemnspectacle,whichevennight,veilingitindarknessanduncertainty,doesnotsurpass.Therisingofthemoonismoreinkeepingwiththesolitaryocean;andhasanairofmelancholygrandeur,whichinitssoftandgentleinfluence,seemstocomfortwhileitsaddens.IrecollectwhenIwasaveryyoungchildhavingafancythatthereflectionofthemooninwaterwasapathtoHeaven,troddenbythespiritsofgoodpeopleontheirwaytoGod;andthisoldfeelingoftencameovermeagain,whenIwatcheditonatranquilnightatsea.

ThewindwasverylightonthissameMondaymorning,butitwasstillintherightquarter,andso,byslowdegrees,weleftCapeClearbehind,andsailedalongwithinsightofthecoastofIreland.Andhowmerryweallwere,andhowloyaltotheGeorgeWashington,andhowfullofmutualcongratulations,andhowventuresomeinpredictingtheexacthouratwhichweshouldarriveatLiverpool,mayb

eeasilyimaginedandreadilyunderstood.Also,howheartilywedrankthecaptainshealththatdayatdinner;andhowrestlesswebecameaboutpackingup:andhowtwoorthreeofthemostsanguinespiritsrejectedtheideaofgoingtobedatallthatnightassomethingitwasnotworthwhiletodo,soneartheshore,butwentnevertheless,andsleptsoundly;andhowtobesonearourjourneysend,waslikeapleasantdream,fromwhichonefearedtowake.

Thefriendlybreezefreshenedagainnextday,andonwewentoncemorebeforeitgallantly:descryingnowandthenanEnglishshipgoinghomewardundershortenedsail,whilewe,witheveryinchofcanvascrowdedon,dashedgailypast,andleftherfarbehind.Towardsevening,theweatherturnedhazy,withadrizzlingrain;andsoonbecamesothick,thatwesailed,asitwere,inacloud.Stillwesweptonwardlikeaphantomship,andmanyaneagereyeglanceduptowherethe

Look-outonthemastkeptwatchforHolyhead.

Atlengthhislong-expectedcrywasheard,andatthesamemomentthereshoneoutfromthehazeandmistahead,agleaminglight,whichpresentlywasgone,andsoonreturned,andsoonwasgoneagain.Wheneveritcameback,theeyesofallonboard,brightenedandsparkledlikeitself:andthereweallstood,watchingthisrevolvinglightupontherockatHolyhead,andpraisingitforitsbrightnessanditsfriendlywarning,andlaudingit,inshort,aboveallothersignallightsthateverweredisplayed,untilitoncemoreglimmeredfaintlyinthedistance,farbehindus.

Then,itwastimetofireagun,forapilot;andalmostbeforeitssmokehadclearedaway,alittleboatwithalightathermastheadcamebearingdownuponus

,throughthedarkness,swiftly.Andpresently,oursailsbeingbacked,sheranalongside;andthehoarsepilot,wrappedandmuffledinpea-coatsandshawlstotheverybridgeofhisweather-ploughed-upnose,stoodbodilyamongusonthedeck.AndIthinkifthatpilothadwantedtoborrowfiftypoundsforanindefiniteperiodonnosecurity,weshouldhaveengagedtolendittohim,amongus,beforehisboathaddroppedastern,or(whichisthesamething)beforeeveryscrapofnewsinthepaperhebroughtwithhimhadbecomethecommonpropertyofallonboard.

Weturnedinprettylatethatnight,andturnedoutprettyearlynextmorning.B



ysixoclockweclusteredonthedeck,preparedtogoashore;andlookeduponthespires,androofs,andsmoke,ofLiverpool.ByeightweallsatdowninoneofitsHotels,toeatanddrinktogetherforthelasttime.Andbyninewehadshakenhandsallround,andbrokenupoursocialcompanyforever.

Thecountry,bytherailroad,seemed,aswerattledthroughit,likealuxuriantgarden.Thebeautyofthefields(sosmalltheylooked!),thehedge-rows,andthetrees;theprettycottages,thebedsofflowers,theoldchurchyards,theantiquehouses,andeverywell-knownobject;theexquisitedelightsofthatonejourney,crowdingintheshortcompassofasummersday,thejoyofmanyyears,withthewindingupwithHomeandallthatmakesitdear;notonguecantell,orpenofminedescribe.

ChapterXVISlavery

THEupholdersofslaveryinAmericaoftheatrocitiesofwhichsystem,IshallnotwriteonewordforwhichIhavenothadampleproofandwarrantmaybedividedintothreegreatclasses.

Thefirst,arethosemoremoderateandrationalownersofhumancattle,whohavecomeintothepossessionofthemassomanycoinsintheirtradingcapital,butwhoadmitthefrightfulnatureoftheInstitutionintheabstract,andperceivethedangerstosocietywithwhichitisfraught:dangerswhichhoweverdistant

theymaybe,orhowsoevertardyintheircomingon,areascertaintofalluponitsguiltyhead,asistheDayofJudgment.

Thesecond,consistsofallthoseowners,breeders,users,buyersandsellersofslaves,whowill,untilthebloodychapterhasabloodyend,own,breed,use,buy,andsellthematallhazards:whodoggedlydenythehorrorsofthesystemintheteethofsuchamassofevidenceasneverwasbroughttobearonanyothersubject,andtowhichtheexperienceofeverydaycontributesitsimmenseamount;whowouldatthisoranyothermoment,gladlyinvolveAmericainawar,civilorforeign,providedthatithadforitssoleendandobjecttheassertionoftheirrighttoperpetuateslavery,andtowhipandworkandtortureslaves,unquestionedbyanyhumanauthority,andunassailedbyanyhumanpower;who,whentheyspeakofFreedom,meantheFreedomtooppresstheirkind,andtobesavage,mer

ciless,andcruel;andofwhomeverymanonhisownground,inrepublicanAmerica,isamoreexacting,andasterner,andalessresponsibledespotthantheCaliphHarounAlraschidinhisangryrobeofscarlet.

Thethird,andnottheleastnumerousorinfluential,iscomposedofallthatdelicategentilitywhichcannotbearasuperior,andcannotbrookanequal;ofthatclasswhoseRepublicanismmeans,Iwillnottolerateamanaboveme:andofthosebelow,nonemustapproachtoonear;whosepride,inalandwherevoluntaryservitudeisshunnedasadisgrace,mustbeministeredtobyslaves;andwhoseinalienablerightscanonlyhavetheirgrowthinnegrowrongs.

Ithasbeensometimesurgedthat,intheunavailingeffortswhichhavebeenmadetoadvancethecauseofHumanFreedomintherepublicofAmerica(strangecause

forhistorytotreatof!),sufficientregardhasnotbeenhadtotheexistenceofthefirstclassofpersons;andithasbeencontendedthattheyarehardlyused,inbeingconfoundedwiththesecond.Thisis,nodoubt,thecase;nobleinstancesofpecuniaryandpersonalsacrificehavealreadyhadtheirgrowthamongthem;anditismuchtoberegrettedthatthegulfbetweenthemandtheadvocatesofemancipationshouldhavebeenwidenedanddeepenedbyanymeans:therather,asthereare,beyonddispute,amongtheseslave-owners,manykindmasterswhoaretenderintheexerciseoftheirunnaturalpower.Still,itistobefearedthatthisinjusticeisinseparablefromthestateofthingswithwhichhumanityandtrutharecalledupontodeal.Slaveryisnotawhitthemoreendurablebecause



someheartsaretobefoundwhichcanpartiallyresistitshardeninginfluences;norcantheindignanttideofhonestwrathstandstill,becauseinitsonwardcourseitoverwhelmsafewwhoarecomparativelyinnocent,amongahostofguilty.

Thegroundmostcommonlytakenbythesebettermenamongtheadvocatesofslavery,isthis:Itisabadsystem;andformyselfIwouldwillinglygetridofit,ifIcould;mostwillingly.Butitisnotsobad,asyouinEnglandtakeittobe.Youaredeceivedbytherepresentationsoftheemancipationists.Thegreaterpartofmyslavesaremuchattachedtome.YouwillsaythatIdonotallowthemtobeseverelytreated;butIwillputittoyouwhetheryoubelievethatitcanbeageneralpracticetotreattheminhumanly,whenitwouldimpairtheirvalue,andwouldbeobviouslyagainsttheinterestsoftheirmasters.

Isittheinterestofanymantosteal,togame,towastehishealthandmentalfacultiesbydrunkenness,tolie,forswearhimself,indulgehatred,seekdesperaterevenge,ordomurder?No.Alltheseareroadstoruin.Andwhy,then,domentreadthem?Becausesuchinclinationsareamongtheviciousqualitiesofmankind.Blotout,yefriendsofslavery,fromthecatalogueofhumanpassions,brutallust,cruelty,andtheabuseofirresponsiblepower(ofallearthlytemptationsthemostdifficulttoberesisted),andwhenyehavedoneso,andnotbefore,wewillinquirewhetheritbetheinterestofamastertolashandmaimtheslaves,overwhoselivesandlimbshehasanabsolutecontrol!

Butagain:thisclass,togetherwiththatlastoneIhavenamed,themiserablearistocracyspawnedofafalserepublic,liftuptheirvoicesandexclaimPublicopinionisall-sufficienttopreventsuchcrueltyasyoudenounce.Publicopinion!Why,publicopinionintheslaveStatesISslavery,isitnot?Publicopinion,intheslaveStates,hasdeliveredtheslavesover,tothegentlemerciesoftheirmasters.Publicopinionhasmadethelaws,anddeniedtheslaveslegislativeprotection.Publicopinionhasknottedthelash,heatedthebranding-iron,loadedtherifle,andshieldedthemurderer.Publicopinionthreatenstheabolitionistwithdeath,ifheventuretotheSouth;anddragshimwitharopeabouthismiddle,inbroadunblushingnoon,throughthefirstcityintheEast.Publicopinionhas,withinafewyears,burnedaslavealiveataslowfireinthecityofSt.Louis;andpublicopinionhastothisdaymaintaineduponthebenchthatestimablejudgewhochargedthejury,impanelledtheretotryhismurderers,thatth

eirmosthorriddeedwasanactofpublicopinion,andbeingso,mustnotbepunishedbythelawsthepublicsentimenthadmade.Publicopinionhailedthisdoctrinewithahowlofwildapplause,andsettheprisonersfree,towalkthecity,menofmark,andinfluence,andstation,astheyhadbeenbefore.

Publicopinion!whatclassofmenhaveanimmensepreponderanceovertherestofthecommunity,intheirpowerofrepresentingpublicopinioninthelegislature?theslave-owners.TheysendfromtheirtwelveStatesonehundredmembers,whilethefourteenfreeStates,withafreepopulationnearlydouble,returnbutahundredandforty-two.Beforewhomdothepresidentialcandidatesbowdownthemosthumbly,onwhomdotheyfawnthemostfondly,andforwhosetastesdotheycaterthemostassiduouslyintheirservileprotestations?Theslave-ownersalways.

Publicopinion!hearthepublicopinionofthefreeSouth,asexpressedbyitsownmembersintheHouseofRepresentativesatWashington.Ihaveagreatrespectforthechair,quothNorthCarolina,Ihaveagreatrespectforthechairasanofficerofthehouse,andagreatrespectforhimpersonally;nothingbutthatrespectpreventsmefromrushingtothetableandtearingthatpetitionwhichhasjustbeenpresentedfortheabolitionofslaveryinthedistrictofColumbia,topieces.Iwarntheabolitionists,saysSouthCarolina,ignorant,infuriatedbarbansastheyare,thatifchanceshallthrowanyofthemintoourhands,hemayexpectafelonsdeath.LetanabolitionistcomewithinthebordersofSouthCarolin



criesathird;mildCarolinascolleague;andifwecancatchhim,wewilltryhim,andnotwithstandingtheinterferenceofallthegovernmentsonearth,includingtheFederalgovernment,wewillHANGhim.

Publicopinionhasmadethislaw.IthasdeclaredthatinWashington,inthatcitywhichtakesitsnamefromthefatherofAmericanliberty,anyjusticeofthepeacemaybindwithfettersanynegropassingdownthestreetandthrusthimintojail:nooffenceontheblackmanspartisnecessary.Thejusticesays,Ichoosetothinkthismanarunaway:andlockshimup.Publicopinionimpowersthemanoflawwhenthisisdone,toadvertisethenegrointhenewspapers,warninghisownertocomeandclaimhim,orhewillbesoldtopaythejailfees.Butsupposingheisafreeblack,andhasnoowner,itmaynaturallybepresumedthatheissetatliberty.No:HEISSOLDTORECOMPENSEHISJAILER.Thishasbeendoneagain,andagain,andagain.Hehasnomeansofprovinghisfreedom;hasnoadviser,messenger,orassistanceofanysortorkind;noinvestigationintohiscaseismade,orinquiryinstituted.He,afreeman,whomayhaveservedforyears,andboughthisliberty,isthrownintojailonnoprocess,fornocrime,andonnopretenceofcrime:andissoldtopaythejailfees.Thisseemsincredible,evenofAmerica,butitisthelaw.

Publicopinionisdeferredto,insuchcasesasthefollowing:whichisheadedinthenewspapers:-

INTERESTINGLAW-CASE.

AninterestingcaseisnowontrialintheSupremeCourt,arisingoutofthefollowingfacts.AgentlemanresidinginMarylandhadallowedanagedpairofhisslaves,substantialthoughnotlegalfreedomforseveralyears.Whilethusliving,adaughterwasborntothem,whogrewupinthesameliberty,untilshemarriedafreenegro,andwentwithhimtoresideinPennsylvania.Theyhadseveralchildren,andlivedunmolesteduntiltheoriginalownerdied,whenhisheirattemptedtoregainthem;butthemagistratebeforewhomtheywerebrought,decidedthathehadnojurisdictioninthecase.THEOWNERSEIZEDTHEWOMANANDHERCHILDRENITSTHENIGHT,ANDCARRIEDTHEMTOMARYLAND.

Cashfornegroes,cashfornegroes,cashfornegroes,istheheadingofadvertiseingreatcapitalsdownthelongcolumnsofthecrowdedjournals.Woodcutsofa

runawaynegrowithmanacledhands,crouchingbeneathabluffpursuerintopboots,who,havingcaughthim,graspshimbythethroat,agreeablydiversifythepleasanttext.Theleadingarticleprotestsagainstthatabominableandhellishdoctrineofabolition,whichisrepugnantaliketoeverylawofGodandnature.Thedelicatemamma,whosmilesheracquiescenceinthissprightlywritingasshereadsthepaperinhercoolpiazza,quietsheryoungestchildwhoclingsaboutherskirts,bypromisingtheboyawhiptobeatthelittleniggerswith.Butthenegroes,littleandbig,areprotectedbypublicopinion.

Letustrythispublicopinionbyanothertest,whichisimportantinthreepointsofview:first,asshowinghowdesperatelytimidofthepublicopinionslave-ownersare,intheirdelicatedescriptionsoffugitiveslavesinwidelycirculatednewspapers;secondly,asshowinghowperfectlycontentedtheslavesare,and

howveryseldomtheyrunaway;thirdly,asexhibitingtheirentirefreedomfromscar,orblemish,oranymarkofcruelinfliction,astheirpicturesaredrawn,notbylyingabolitionists,butbytheirowntruthfulmasters.

Thefollowingareafewspecimensoftheadvertisementsinthepublicpapers.Itisonlyfouryearssincetheoldestamongthemappeared;andothersofthesamenaturecontinuetobepublishedeveryday,inshoals.

Ranaway,NegressCaroline.Hadonacollarwithoneprongturneddown.



Ranaway,ablackwoman,Betsy.Hadanironbaronherrightleg.

Ranaway,thenegroManuel.Muchmarkedwithirons.

Ranaway,thenegressFanny.Hadonanironbandaboutherneck.

Ranaway,anegroboyabouttwelveyearsold.Hadroundhisneckachaindog-collarwithDeLampertengravedonit.

Ranaway,thenegroHown.Hasaringofirononhisleftfoot.Also,Grise,HISWIFE,havingaringandchainontheleftleg.

Ranaway,anegroboynamedJames.Saidboywasironedwhenheleftme.

Committedtojail,amanwhocallshisnameJohn.Hehasaclogofirononhisrightfootwhichwillweighfourorfivepounds.

Detainedatthepolicejail,thenegrowench,Myra.HasseveralmarksofLASHING,andhasironsonherfeet.

Ranaway,anegrowomanandtwochildren.Afewdaysbeforeshewentoff,Iburntherwithahotiron,ontheleftsideofherface.ItriedtomaketheletterM.

Ranaway,anegromannamedHenry;hislefteyeout,somescarsfromadirkonandunderhisleftarm,andmuchscarredwiththewhip.

Onehundreddollarsreward,foranegrofellow,Pompey,40yearsold.Heisbrandedontheleftjaw.

Committedtojail,anegroman.Hasnotoesontheleftfoot.

Ranaway,anegrowomannamedRachel.Haslostallhertoesexceptthelargeone.

Ranaway,Sam.Hewasshotashorttimesincethroughthehand,andhasseveralshotsinhisleftarmandside.

Ranaway,mynegromanDennis.Saidnegrohasbeenshotintheleftarmbetweentheshoulderandelbow,whichhasparalysedthelefthand.

Ranaway,mynegromannamedSimon.Hehasbeenshotbadly,inhisbackandrightarm.

Ranaway,anegronamedArthur.Hasaconsiderablescaracrosshisbreastandeacharm,madebyaknife;lovestotalkmuchofthegoodnessofGod.

Twenty-fivedollarsrewardformymanIsaac.Hehasascaronhisforehead,causedbyablow;andoneonhisback,madebyashotfromapistol.

Ranaway,anegrogirlcalledMary.Hasasmallscaroverhereye,agoodmanyte

ethmissing,theletterAisbrandedonhercheekandforehead.

Ranaway,negroBen.Hasascaronhisrighthand;histhumbandforefingerbeinginjuredbybeingshotlastfall.Apartofthebonecameout.Hehasalsooneortwolargescarsonhisbackandhips.

Detainedatthejail,amulatto,namedTom.Hasascarontherightcheek,andappearstohavebeenburnedwithpowderontheface.

Ranaway,anegromannamedNed.Threeofhisfingersaredrawnintothepalmof



hishandbyacut.Hasascaronthebackofhisneck,nearlyhalfround,donebyaknife.

Wascommittedtojail,anegroman.SayshisnameisJosiah.Hisbackverymuchscarredbythewhip;andbrandedonthethighandhipsinthreeorfourplaces,thus(JM).Therimofhisrightearhasbeenbitorcutoff.

Fiftydollarsreward,formyfellowEdward.Hehasascaronthecornerofhismouth,twocutsonandunderhisarm,andtheletterEonhisarm.

Ranaway,negroboyEllie.Hasascarononeofhisarmsfromthebiteofadog.

Ranaway,fromtheplantationofJamesSurgette,thefollowingnegroes:Randal,hasoneearcropped;Bob,haslostoneeye;KentuckyTom,hasonejawbroken.

Ranaway,Anthony.Oneofhisearscutoff,andhislefthandcutwithanaxe.

FiftydollarsrewardforthenegroJimBlake.Hasapiececutoutofeachear,andthemiddlefingerofthelefthandcutofftothesecondjoint.

Ranaway,anegrowomannamedMaria.Hasascarononesideofhercheek,byacut.Somescarsonherback.

Ranaway,theMulattowenchMary.Hasacutontheleftarm,ascaronthelefts

houlder,andtwoupperteethmissing.

Ishouldsay,perhaps,inexplanationofthislatterpieceofdescription,thatamongtheotherblessingswhichpublicopinionsecurestothenegroes,isthecommonpracticeofviolentlypunchingouttheirteeth.Tomakethemwearironcollarsbydayandnight,andtoworrythemwithdogs,arepracticesalmosttooordinarytodeservemention.

Ranaway,mymanFountain.Hasholesinhisears,ascarontherightsideofhisforehead,hasbeenshotinthehindpartofhislegs,andismarkedonthebackwiththewhip.

TwohundredandfiftydollarsrewardformynegromanJim.Heismuchmarkedwith

shotinhisrightthigh.Theshotenteredontheoutside,halfwaybetweenthehipandkneejoints.

Broughttojail,John.Leftearcropt.

Takenup,anegroman.Isverymuchscarredaboutthefaceandbody,andhastheleftearbitoff.

Ranaway,ablackgirl,namedMary.Hasascaronhercheek,andtheendofoneofhertoescutoff.

Ranaway,myMulattowoman,Judy.Shehashadherrightarmbroke.

Ranaway,mynegroman,Levi.Hislefthandhasbeenburnt,andIthinktheendofhisforefingerisoff.

Ranaway,anegroman,NAMEDWASHINGTON.Haslostapartofhismiddlefinger,andtheendofhislittlefinger.

Twenty-fivedollarsrewardformymanJohn.Thetipofhisnoseisbitoff.

Twenty-fivedollarsrewardforthenegroslave,Sally.WalksASTHOUGHcrippledintheback.



Ranaway,JoeDennis.Hasasmallnotchinoneofhisears.

Ranaway,negroboy,Jack.Hasasmallcropoutofhisleftear.

Ranaway,anegroman,namedIvory.Hasasmallpiececutoutofthetopofeachear.

Whileuponthesubjectofears,ImayobservethatadistinguishedabolitionistinNewYorkoncereceivedanegrosear,whichhadbeencutoffclosetothehead,inageneralpostletter.Itwasforwardedbythefreeandindependentgentlemanwhohadcausedittobeamputated,withapoliterequestthathewouldplacethespecimeninhiscollection.

Icouldenlargethiscataloguewithbrokenarms,andbrokenlegs,andgashedflesh,andmissingteeth,andlaceratedbacks,andbitesofdogs,andbrandsofred-hotironsinnumerable:butasmyreaderswillbesufficientlysickenedandrepelledalready,Iwillturntoanotherbranchofthesubject.

Theseadvertisements,ofwhichasimilarcollectionmightbemadeforeveryyear,andmonth,andweek,andday;andwhicharecoollyreadinfamiliesasthingsofcourse,andasapartofthecurrentnewsandsmall-talk;willservetoshowhowverymuchtheslavesprofitbypublicopinion,andhowtenderitisintheirbehalf.Butitmaybeworthwhiletoinquirehowtheslave-owners,andtheclas

sofsocietytowhichgreatnumbersofthembelong,defertopublicopinionintheirconduct,nottotheirslavesbuttoeachother;howtheyareaccustomedtorestraintheirpassions;whattheirbearingisamongthemselves;whethertheyarefierceorgentle;whethertheirsocialcustomsbebrutal,sanguinary,andviolent,orbeartheimpressofcivilisationandrefinement.

Thatwemayhavenopartialevidencefromabolitionistsinthisinquiry,either,Iwilloncemoreturntotheirownnewspapers,andIwillconfinemyself,thistime,toaselectionfromparagraphswhichappearedfromdaytoday,duringmyvisittoAmerica,andwhichrefertooccurrenceshappeningwhileIwasthere.Theitalicsintheseextracts,asintheforegoing,aremyown.

ThesecasesdidnotALLoccur,itwillbeseen,interritoryactuallybelonging

tolegalisedSlaveStates,thoughmost,andthosetheveryworstamongthemdid,astheircounterpartsconstantlydo;butthepositionofthescenesofactioninreferencetoplacesimmediatelyathand,whereslaveryisthelaw;andthestrongresemblancebetweenthatclassofoutragesandtherest;leadtothejustpresumptionthatthecharacterofthepartiesconcernedwasformedinslavedistricts,andbrutalisedbyslavecustoms.

HORRIBLETRAGEDY.

ByaslipfromTHESOUTHPORTTELEGRAPH,Wisconsin,welearnthattheHon.CharlesC.P.Arndt,MemberoftheCouncilforBrowncounty,wasshotdeadONTHEFLOOROFTHECOUNCILCHAMBER,byJamesR.Vinyard,MemberfromGrantcounty.THEAFFAIRgrewoutofanominationforSheriffofGrantcounty.Mr.E.S.Bakerwasnom

inatedandsupportedbyMr.Arndt.ThisnominationwasopposedbyVinyard,whowantedtheappointmenttovestinhisownbrother.Inthecourseofdebate,thedeceasedmadesomestatementswhichVinyardpronouncedfalse,andmadeuseofviolentandinsultinglanguage,dealinglargelyinpersonalities,towhichMr.A.madenoreply.Aftertheadjournment,Mr.A.steppeduptoVinyard,andrequestedhimtoretract,whichherefusedtodo,repeatingtheoffensivewords.Mr.ArndtthenmadeablowatVinyard,whosteppedbackapace,drewapistol,andshothimdead.

TheissueappearstohavebeenprovokedonthepartofVinyard,whowasdetermine



datallhazardstodefeattheappointmentofBaker,andwho,himselfdefeated,turnedhisireandrevengeupontheunfortunateArndt.

THEWISCONSINTRAGEDY.

PublicindignationrunshighintheterritoryofWisconsin,inrelationtothemurderofC.C.P.Arndt,intheLegislativeHalloftheTerritory.MeetingshavebeenheldindifferentcountiesofWisconsin,denouncingTHEPRACTICEOFSECRETLYBEARINGARMSINTHELEGISLATIVECHAMBERSOFTHECOUNTRY.WehaveseentheaccountoftheexpulsionofJamesR.Vinyard,theperpetratorofthebloodydeed,andareamazedtohear,that,afterthisexpulsionbythosewhosawVinyardkillMr.Arndtinthepresenceofhisagedfather,whowasonavisittoseehisson,littledreamingthathewastowitnesshismurder,JUDGEDUNNHASDISCHARGEDVINYARDONBAIL.TheMinersFreePressspeaksINTERMSOFMERITEDREBUKEattheoutrageuponthefeelingsofthepeopleofWisconsin.VinyardwaswithinarmslengthofMr.Arndt,whenhetooksuchdeadlyaimathim,thatheneverspoke.Vinyardmightatpleasure,beingsonear,haveonlywoundedhim,buthechosetokillhim.

MURDER.

ByaletterinaSt.Louispaperofthe4th,wenoticeaterribleoutrageatBurlington,Iowa.AMr.Bridgmanhavinghadadifficultywithacitizenoftheplace,Mr.Ross;abrother-in-lawofthelatterprovidedhimselfwithoneofColtsrev

olvingpistols,metMr.B.inthestreet,ANDDISCHARGEDTHECONTENTSOFFIVEOFTHEBARRELSATHIM:EACHSHOTTAKINGEFFECT.Mr.B.,thoughhorriblywounded,anddying,returnedthefire,andkilledRossonthespot.

TERRIBLEDEATHOFROBERTPOTTER.

FromtheCaddoGazette,ofthe12thinst.,welearnthefrightfuldeathofColonelRobertPotter....Hewasbesetinhishousebyanenemy,namedRose.Hesprangfromhiscouch,seizedhisgun,and,inhisnight-clothes,rushedfromthehouse.Forabouttwohundredyardshisspeedseemedtodefyhispursuers;but,gettingentangledinathicket,hewascaptured.RosetoldhimTHATHEINTENDEDTOACTAGENEROUSPART,andgivehimachanceforhislife.HethentoldPotterhemightrun,andheshouldnotbeinterruptedtillhereachedacertaindistance.P

otterstartedatthewordofcommand,andbeforeagunwasfiredhehadreachedthelake.Hisfirstimpulsewastojumpinthewateranddiveforit,whichhedid.Rosewasclosebehindhim,andformedhismenonthebankreadytoshoothimasherose.Inafewsecondshecameuptobreathe;andscarcehadhisheadreachedthesurfaceofthewaterwhenitwascompletelyriddledwiththeshotoftheirguns,andhesunk,torisenomore!

MURDERINARKANSAS.

WeunderstandTHATASEVERERENCONTRECAMEOFFafewdayssinceintheSenecaNation,betweenMr.Loose,thesub-agentofthemixedbandoftheSenecas,Quapaw,andShawnees,andMr.JamesGillespie,ofthemercantilefirmofThomasG.AllisonandCo.,ofMaysville,Benton,CountyArk,inwhichthelatterwasslainwith

abowie-knife.Somedifficultyhadforsometimeexistedbetweentheparties.ItissaidthatMajorGillespiebroughtontheattackwithacane.Asevereconflictensued,duringwhichtwopistolswerefiredbyGillespieandonebyLoose.LoosethenstabbedGillespiewithoneofthosenever-failingweapons,abowie-knife.ThedeathofMajorG.ismuchregretted,ashewasaliberal-mindedandenergeticman.Sincetheabovewasintype,wehavelearnedthatMajorAllisonhasstatedtosomeofourcitizensintownthatMr.Loosegavethefirstblow.Weforbeartogiveanyparticulars,asTHEMATTERWILLBETHESUBJECTOFJUDICIALINVESTIGATION.



FOULDEED.

ThesteamerThames,justfromMissouririver,broughtusahandbill,offeringarewardof500dollars,forthepersonwhoassassinatedLilburnW.Baggs,lateGovernorofthisState,atIndependence,onthenightofthe6thinst.GovernorBaggs,itisstatedinawrittenmemorandum,wasnotdead,butmortallywounded.

Sincetheabovewaswritten,wereceivedanotefromtheclerkoftheThames,givingthefollowingparticulars.Gov.BaggswasshotbysomevillainonFriday,6thinst.,intheevening,whilesittinginaroominhisownhouseinIndependence.Hisson,aboy,hearingareport,ranintotheroom,andfoundtheGovernorsittinginhischair,withhisjawfallendown,andhisheadleaningback;ondiscoveringtheinjurydonetohisfather,hegavethealarm.Foottrackswerefoundinthegardenbelowthewindow,andapistolpickedupsupposedtohavebeenoverloaded,andthrownfromthehandofthescoundrelwhofiredit.Threebuckshotsofaheavyload,tookeffect;onegoingthroughhismouth,oneintothebrain,andanotherprobablyinornearthebrain;allgoingintothebackpartoftheneckandhead.TheGovernorwasstillaliveonthemorningofthe7th;butnohopesforhisrecoverybyhisfriends,andbutslighthopesfromhisphysicians.

Amanwassuspected,andtheSheriffmostprobablyhaspossessionofhimbythistime.

ThepistolwasoneofapairstolensomedayspreviousfromabakerinIndependen

ce,andthelegalauthoritieshavethedescriptionoftheother.

RENCONTRE.

AnunfortunateAFFAIRtookplaceonFridayeveninginChatresStreet,inwhichoneofourmostrespectablecitizensreceivedadangerouswound,fromapoignard,intheabdomen.FromtheBee(NewOrleans)ofyesterday,welearnthefollowingparticulars.ItappearsthatanarticlewaspublishedintheFrenchsideofthepaperonMondaylast,containingsomestricturesontheArtilleryBattalionforfiringtheirgunsonSundaymorning,inanswertothosefromtheOntarioandWoodbury,andtherebymuchalarmwascausedtothefamiliesofthosepersonswhowereoutallnightpreservingthepeaceofthecity.MajorC.Gally,Commanderofthebattalion,resentingthis,calledattheofficeanddemandedtheauthorsname

;thatofMr.P.Arpinwasgiventohim,whowasabsentatthetime.Someangrywordsthenpassedwithoneoftheproprietors,andachallengefollowed;thefriendsofbothpartiestriedtoarrangetheaffair,butfailedtodoso.OnFridayevening,aboutsevenoclock,MajorGallymetMr.P.ArpininChatresStreet,andaccostedhim.AreyouMr.Arpin?

Yes,sir.

ThenIhavetotellyouthatyouarea(applyinganappropriateepithet).

Ishallremindyouofyourwords,sir.

ButIhavesaidIwouldbreakmycaneonyourshoulders.

Iknowit,butIhavenotyetreceivedtheblow.

Atthesewords,MajorGally,havingacaneinhishands,struckMr.Arpinacrosstheface,andthelatterdrewapoignardfromhispocketandstabbedMajorGallyintheabdomen.

Fearsareentertainedthatthewoundwillbemortal.WEUNDERSTANDTHATMR.ARPINHASGIVENSECURITYFORHISAPPEARANCEATTHECRIMINALCOURTTOANSWERTHECHARGE.



AFFRAYINMISSISSIPPI.

Onthe27thult.,inanaffraynearCarthage,Leakecounty,Mississippi,betweenJamesCottinghamandJohnWilburn,thelatterwasshotbytheformer,andsohorriblywounded,thattherewasnohopeofhisrecovery.Onthe2ndinstant,therewasanaffrayatCarthagebetweenA.C.SharkeyandGeorgeGoff,inwhichthelatterwasshot,andthoughtmortallywounded.Sharkeydeliveredhimselfuptotheauthorities,BUTCHANGEDHISMINDANDESCAPED!

PERSONALENCOUNTER.

AnencountertookplaceinSparta,afewdayssince,betweenthebarkeeperofanhotel,andamannamedBury.ItappearsthatBuryhadbecomesomewhatnoisy,ANDTHATTHEBARKEEPER,DETERMINEDTOPRESERVEORDER,HADTHREATENEDTOSHOOTBURY,whereuponBurydrewapistolandshotthebarkeeperdown.Hewasnotdeadatthelastaccounts,butslighthopeswereentertainedofhisrecovery.

DUEL.

TheclerkofthesteamboatTRIBUNEinformsusthatanotherduelwasfoughtonTuesdaylast,byMr.Robbins,abankofficerinVicksburg,andMr.Fall,theeditoroftheVicksburgSentinel.Accordingtothearrangement,thepartieshadsixpistolseach,which,afterthewordFire!THEYWERETODISCHARGEASFASTASTHEYPLE

ASED.Fallfiredtwopistolswithouteffect.Mr.RobbinsfirstshottookeffectinFallsthigh,whofell,andwasunabletocontinuethecombat.

AFFRAYINCLARKECOUNTY.

AnUNFORTUNATEAFFRAYoccurredinClarkecounty(MO.),nearWaterloo,onTuesdaythe19thult.,whichoriginatedinsettlingthepartnershipconcernsofMessrs.MKaneandMAllister,whohadbeenengagedinthebusinessofdistilling,andresultedinthedeathofthelatter,whowasshotdownbyMr.MKane,becauseofhisattemptingtotakepossessionofsevenbarrelsofwhiskey,thepropertyofMKane,whichhadbeenknockedofftoMAllisteratasheriffssaleatonedollarperbarrel.MKaneimmediatelyfledANDATTHELATESTDATESHADNOTBEENTAKEN.

THISUNFORTUNATEAFFRAYcausedconsiderableexcitementintheneighbourhood,asboththepartiesweremenwithlargefamiliesdependinguponthemandstoodwellinthecommunity.

Iwillquotebutonemoreparagraph,which,byreasonofitsmonstrousabsurdity,maybearelieftotheseatrociousdeeds.

AFFAIROFHONOUR.

WehavejustheardtheparticularsofameetingwhichtookplaceonSixMileIsland,onTuesday,betweentwoyoungbloodsofourcity:SamuelThurston,AGEDFIFTEEN,andWilliamHine,AGEDTHIRTEENyears.Theywereattendedbyyounggentlemenofthesameage.Theweaponsusedontheoccasion,wereacoupleofDicksonsbe

strifles;thedistance,thirtyyards.Theytookonefire,withoutanydamagebeingsustainedbyeitherparty,excepttheballofThurstonsgunpassingthroughthecrownofHineshat.THROUGHTHEINTERCESSIONOFTHEBOARDOFHONOUR,thechallengewaswithdrawn,andthedifferenceamicablyadjusted.

IfthereaderwillpicturetohimselfthekindofBoardofHonourwhichamicablyadjustedthedifferencebetweenthesetwolittleboys,whoinanyotherpartoftheworldwouldhavebeenamicablyadjustedontwoportersbacksandsoundlyfloggedwithbirchenrods,hewillbepossessed,nodoubt,withasstrongasenseofitsludicrouscharacter,asthatwhichsetsmelaughingwheneveritsimageris



esupbeforeme.

Now,Iappealtoeveryhumanmind,imbuedwiththecommonestofcommonsense,andthecommonestofcommonhumanity;toalldispassionate,reasoningcreatures,ofanyshadeofopinion;andask,withtheserevoltingevidencesofthestateofsocietywhichexistsinandabouttheslavedistrictsofAmericabeforethem,cantheyhaveadoubtoftherealconditionoftheslave,orcantheyforamomentmakeacompromisebetweentheinstitutionoranyofitsflagrant,fearfulfeatures,andtheirownjustconsciences?Willtheysayofanytaleofcrueltyandhorror,howeveraggravatedindegree,thatitisimprobable,whentheycanturntothepublicprints,and,running,readsuchsignsasthese,laidbeforethembythemenwhoruletheslaves:intheirownactsandundertheirownhands?

Dowenotknowthattheworstdeformityanduglinessofslaveryareatoncethecauseandtheeffectoftherecklesslicensetakenbythesefreebornoutlaws?Dowenotknowthatthemanwhohasbeenbornandbredamongitswrongs;whohasseeninhischildhoodhusbandsobligedatthewordofcommandtoflogtheirwives;women,indecentlycompelledtoholduptheirowngarmentsthatmenmightlaytheheavierstripesupontheirlegs,drivenandharriedbybrutaloverseersintheirtimeoftravail,andbecomingmothersonthefieldoftoil,undertheverylashitself;whohasreadinyouth,andseenhisvirginsistersread,descriptionsofrunawaymenandwomen,andtheirdisfiguredpersons,whichcouldnotbepublishedelsewhere,ofsomuchstockuponafarm,oratashowofbeasts:dowenotknowthatthatman,wheneverhiswrathiskindledup,willbeabrutalsavage?

Dowenotknowthatasheisacowardinhisdomesticlife,stalkingamonghisshrinkingmenandwomenslavesarmedwithhisheavywhip,sohewillbeacowardoutofdoors,andcarryingcowardsweaponshiddeninhisbreast,willshootmendownandstabthemwhenhequarrels?Andifourreasondidnotteachusthisandmuchbeyond;ifweweresuchidiotsastocloseoureyestothatfinemodeoftrainingwhichrearsupsuchmen;shouldwenotknowthattheywhoamongtheirequalsstabandpistolinthelegislativehalls,andinthecounting-house,andonthemarketplace,andinalltheelsewherepeacefulpursuitsoflife,mustbetotheirdependants,eventhoughtheywerefreeservants,somanymercilessandunrelentingtyrants?

What!shallwedeclaimagainsttheignorantpeasantryofIreland,andmincethematterwhentheseAmericantaskmastersareinquestion?Shallwecryshameonth

ebrutalityofthosewhohamstringcattle:andsparethelightsofFreedomuponearthwhonotchtheearsofmenandwomen,cutpleasantposiesintheshrinkingflesh,learntowritewithpensofred-hotirononthehumanface,racktheirpoeticfanciesforliveriesofmutilationwhichtheirslavesshallwearforlifeandcarrytothegrave,breakinglivinglimbsasdidthesoldierywhomockedandslewtheSaviouroftheworld,andsetdefencelesscreaturesupfortargets!ShallwewhimperoverlegendsofthetorturespractisedoneachotherbythePaganIndians,andsmileuponthecrueltiesofChristianmen!Shallwe,solongasthesethingslast,exultabovethescatteredremnantsofthatrace,andtriumphinthewhiteenjoymentoftheirpossessions?Rather,forme,restoretheforestandtheIndianvillage;inlieuofstarsandstripes,letsomepoorfeatherflutterinthebreeze;replacethestreetsandsquaresbywigwams;andthoughthedeath-songofahundredhaughtywarriorsfilltheair,itwillbemusictotheshriek

ofoneunhappyslave.

Ononetheme,whichiscommonlybeforeoureyes,andinrespectofwhichournationalcharacterischangingfast,lettheplainTruthbespoken,andletusnot,likedastards,beataboutthebushbyhintingattheSpaniardandthefierceItalian.WhenknivesaredrawnbyEnglishmeninconflictletitbesaidandknown:WeowethischangetoRepublicanSlavery.ThesearetheweaponsofFreedom.Withsharppointsandedgessuchasthese,LibertyinAmericahewsandhacksherslaves;or,failingthatpursuit,hersonsdevotethemtoabetteruse,andturnthemoneachother.



ChapterXVIIIConcludingRemarks

THEREaremanypassagesinthisbook,whereIhavebeenatsomepainstoresistthetemptationoftroublingmyreaderswithmyowndeductionsandconclusions:preferringthattheyshouldjudgeforthemselves,fromsuchpremisesasIhavelaidbeforethem.Myonlyobjectintheoutset,was,tocarrythemwithmefaithfullywheresoeverIwent:andthattaskIhavedischarged.

ButImaybepardoned,ifonsuchathemeasthegeneralcharacteroftheAmericanpeople,andthegeneralcharacteroftheirsocialsystem,aspresentedtoastrangerseyes,Idesiretoexpressmyownopinionsinafewwords,beforeIbringthesevolumestoaclose.

Theyare,bynature,frank,brave,cordial,hospitable,andaffectionate.Cultivationandrefinementseembuttoenhancetheirwarmthofheartandardententhusiasm;anditisthepossessionoftheselatterqualitiesinamostremarkabledegree,whichrendersaneducatedAmericanoneofthemostendearingandmostgenerousoffriends.Ineverwassowonupon,asbythisclass;neveryieldedupmyfullconfidenceandesteemsoreadilyandpleasurably,astothem;nevercanmakeagain,inhalfayear,somanyfriendsforwhomIseemtoentertaintheregardofhalfalife.

Thesequalitiesarenatural,Iimplicitlybelieve,tothewholepeople.Thattheyare,however,sadlysappedandblightedintheirgrowthamongthemass;andthatthereareinfluencesatworkwhichendangerthemstillmore,andgivebutlittlepresentpromiseoftheirhealthyrestoration;isatruththatoughttobetold.

Itisanessentialpartofeverynationalcharactertopiqueitselfmightilyuponitsfaults,andtodeducetokensofitsvirtueoritswisdomfromtheirveryexaggeration.OnegreatblemishinthepopularmindofAmerica,andtheprolificparentofaninnumerablebroodofevils,isUniversalDistrust.YettheAmericancitizenplumeshimselfuponthisspirit,evenwhenheissufficientlydispassionatetoperceivetheruinitworks;andwilloftenadduceit,inspiteofhisownreason,asaninstanceofthegreatsagacityandacutenessofthepeople,and

theirsuperiorshrewdnessandindependence.

Youcarry,saysthestranger,thisjealousyanddistrustintoeverytransactionofpubliclife.Byrepellingworthymenfromyourlegislativeassemblies,ithasbredupaclassofcandidatesforthesuffrage,who,intheirveryact,disgraceyourInstitutionsandyourpeopleschoice.Ithasrenderedyousofickle,andsogiventochange,thatyourinconstancyhaspassedintoaproverb;foryounosoonersetupanidolfirmly,thanyouaresuretopullitdownanddashitintofragments:andthis,becausedirectlyyourewardabenefactor,orapublicservant,youdistrusthim,merelybecauseheisrewarded;andimmediatelyapplyyourselvestofindout,eitherthatyouhavebeentoobountifulinyouracknowledgments,orheremissinhisdeserts.Anymanwhoattainsahighplaceamongyou,fromthePresidentdownwards,maydatehisdownfallfromthatmoment;foranyprinted

liethatanynotoriousvillainpens,althoughitmilitatedirectlyagainstthecharacterandconductofalife,appealsatoncetoyourdistrust,andisbelieved.Youwillstrainatagnatinthewayoftrustfulnessandconfidence,howeverfairlywonandwelldeserved;butyouwillswallowawholecaravanofcamels,iftheybeladenwithunworthydoubtsandmeansuspicions.Isthiswell,thinkyou,orlikelytoelevatethecharacterofthegovernorsorthegoverned,amongyou?

Theanswerisinvariablythesame:Theresfreedomofopinionhere,youknow.Everymanthinksforhimself,andwearenottobeeasilyoverreached.Thatshowourp



eoplecometobesuspicious.

Anotherprominentfeatureistheloveofsmartdealing:whichgildsovermanyaswindleandgrossbreachoftrust;manyadefalcation,publicandprivate;andenablesmanyaknavetoholdhisheadupwiththebest,whowelldeservesahalter;thoughithasnotbeenwithoutitsretributiveoperation,forthissmartnesshasdonemoreinafewyearstoimpairthepubliccredit,andtocripplethepublicresources,thandullhonesty,howeverrash,couldhaveeffectedinacentury.Themeritsofabrokenspeculation,orabankruptcy,orofasuccessfulscoundrel,arenotgaugedbyitsorhisobservanceofthegoldenrule,Doasyouwouldbedoneby,butareconsideredwithreferencetotheirsmartness.Irecollect,onbothoccasionsofourpassingthatill-fatedCairoontheMississippi,remarkingonthebadeffectssuchgrossdeceitsmusthavewhentheyexploded,ingeneratingawantofconfidenceabroad,anddiscouragingforeigninvestment:butIwasgiventounderstandthatthiswasaverysmartschemebywhichadealofmoneyhadbeenmade:andthatitssmartestfeaturewas,thattheyforgotthesethingsabroad,inaveryshorttime,andspeculatedagain,asfreelyasever.ThefollowingdialogueIhaveheldahundredtimes:IsitnotaverydisgracefulcircumstancethatsuchamanasSo-and-soshouldbeacquiringalargepropertybythemostinfamousandodiousmeans,andnotwithstandingallthecrimesofwhichhehasbeenguilty,shouldbetoleratedandabettedbyyourCitizens?Heisapublicnuisance,ishenot?Yes,sir.Aconvictedliar?Yes,sir.Hehasbeenkicked,andcdcaned?Yes,sir.Andheisutterlydishonourable,debased,andprofligate?Yes,nthenameofwonder,then,whatishismerit?Well,sir,heisasmartman.

Inlikemanner,allkindsofdeficientandimpoliticusagesarereferredtothenationalloveoftrade;though,oddlyenough,itwouldbeaweightychargeagainstaforeignerthatheregardedtheAmericansasatradingpeople.Theloveoftradeisassignedasareasonforthatcomfortlesscustom,soveryprevalentincountrytowns,ofmarriedpersonslivinginhotels,havingnofiresideoftheirown,andseldommeetingfromearlymorninguntillateatnight,butatthehastypublicmeals.TheloveoftradeisareasonwhytheliteratureofAmericaistoremainforeverunprotectedForweareatradingpeople,anddontcareforpoetry:thoughweDO,bytheway,professtobeveryproudofourpoets:whilehealthfulamusements,cheerfulmeansofrecreation,andwholesomefancies,mustfadebeforethesternutilitarianjoysoftrade.

Thesethreecharacteristicsarestronglypresentedateveryturn,fullinthestrangersview.But,thefoulgrowthofAmericahasamoretangledrootthanthis;anditstrikesitsfibres,deepinitslicentiousPress.

Schoolsmaybeerected,East,West,North,andSouth;pupilsbetaught,andmastersreared,byscoresuponscoresofthousands;collegesmaythrive,churchesmaybecrammed,temperancemaybediffused,andadvancingknowledgeinallotherformswalkthroughthelandwithgiantstrides:butwhilethenewspaperpressofAmericaisin,ornear,itspresentabjectstate,highmoralimprovementinthatcountryishopeless.Yearbyyear,itmustandwillgoback;yearbyyear,thetoneofpublicfeelingmustsinklowerdown;yearbyyear,theCongressandtheSenatemustbecomeoflessaccountbeforealldecentmen;andyearbyyear,thememoryoftheGreatFathersoftheRevolutionmustbeoutragedmoreandmore,in

thebadlifeoftheirdegeneratechild.

AmongtheherdofjournalswhicharepublishedintheStates,therearesome,thereaderscarcelyneedbetold,ofcharacterandcredit.Frompersonalintercoursewithaccomplishedgentlemenconnectedwithpublicationsofthisclass,Ihavederivedbothpleasureandprofit.ButthenameoftheseisFew,andoftheothersLegion;andtheinfluenceofthegood,ispowerlesstocounteractthemoralpoisonofthebad.

AmongthegentryofAmerica;amongthewell-informedandmoderate:inthelearne



dprofessions;atthebarandonthebench:thereis,astherecanbe,butoneopinion,inreferencetotheviciouscharacteroftheseinfamousjournals.ItissometimescontendedIwillnotsaystrangely,foritisnaturaltoseekexcusesforsuchadisgracethattheirinfluenceisnotsogreatasavisitorwouldsuppose.Imustbepardonedforsayingthatthereisnowarrantforthisplea,andthateveryfactandcircumstancetendsdirectlytotheoppositeconclusion.

Whenanyman,ofanygradeofdesertinintellectorcharacter,canclimbtoanypublicdistinction,nomatterwhat,inAmerica,withoutfirstgrovellingdownupontheearth,andbendingthekneebeforethismonsterofdepravity;whenanyprivateexcellenceissafefromitsattacks;whenanysocialconfidenceisleftunbrokenbyit,oranytieofsocialdecencyandhonourisheldintheleastregard;whenanymaninthatfreecountryhasfreedomofopinion,andpresumestothinkforhimself,andspeakforhimself,withouthumblereferencetoacensorshipwhich,foritsrampantignoranceandbasedishonesty,heutterlyloathesanddespisesinhisheart;whenthosewhomostacutelyfeelitsinfamyandthereproachitcastsuponthenation,andwhomostdenounceittoeachother,daretosettheirheelsupon,andcrushitopenly,inthesightofallmen:then,Iwillbelievethatitsinfluenceislessening,andmenarereturningtotheirmanlysenses.ButwhilethatPresshasitsevileyeineveryhouse,anditsblackhandineveryappointmentinthestate,fromapresidenttoapostman;while,withribaldslanderforitsonlystockintrade,itisthestandardliteratureofanenormousclass,whomustfindtheirreadinginanewspaper,ortheywillnotreadatall;solongmustitsodiumbeuponthecountryshead,andsolongmusttheevili

tworks,beplainlyvisibleintheRepublic.

TothosewhoareaccustomedtotheleadingEnglishjournals,ortotherespectablejournalsoftheContinentofEurope;tothosewhoareaccustomedtoanythingelseinprintandpaper;itwouldbeimpossible,withoutanamountofextractforwhichIhaveneitherspacenorinclination,toconveyanadequateideaofthisfrightfulengineinAmerica.Butifanymandesireconfirmationofmystatementonthishead,lethimrepairtoanyplaceinthiscityofLondon,wherescatterednumbersofthesepublicationsaretobefound;andthere,lethimformhisownopinion.*

*[NOTETOTHEORIGINALEDITION.]Orlethimrefertoanable,andperfectlytruthfularticle,inTHEFOREIGNQUARTERLYREVIEW,publishedinthepresentmontho

fOctober;towhichmyattentionhasbeenattracted,sincethesesheetshavebeenpassingthroughthepress.Hewillfindsomespecimensthere,bynomeansremarkabletoanymanwhohasbeeninAmerica,butsufficientlystrikingtoonewhohasnot.

Itwouldbewell,therecanbenodoubt,fortheAmericanpeopleasawhole,iftheylovedtheRealless,andtheIdealsomewhatmore.Itwouldbewell,ifthereweregreaterencouragementtolightnessofheartandgaiety,andawidercultivationofwhatisbeautiful,withoutbeingeminentlyanddirectlyuseful.Buthere,Ithinkthegeneralremonstrance,weareanewcountry,whichissooftenadvancedasanexcusefordefectswhicharequiteunjustifiable,asbeing,ofright,onlytheslowgrowthofanoldone,maybeveryreasonablyurged:andIyethopetohearoftherebeingsomeothernationalamusementintheUnitedStates,bes

idesnewspaperpolitics.

Theycertainlyarenotahumorouspeople,andtheirtemperamentalwaysimpressedmeisbeingofadullandgloomycharacter.Inshrewdnessofremark,andacertaincast-ironquaintness,theYankees,orpeopleofNewEngland,unquestionablytakethelead;astheydoinmostotherevidencesofintelligence.Butintravellingabout,outofthelargecitiesasIhaveremarkedinformerpartsofthesevolumesIwasquiteoppressedbytheprevailingseriousnessandmelancholyairofbusiness:whichwassogeneralandunvarying,thatateverynewtownIcameto,IseemedtomeettheverysamepeoplewhomIhadleftbehindme,atthelast.



Suchdefectsasareperceptibleinthenationalmanners,seem,tome,tobereferable,inagreatdegree,tothiscause:whichhasgeneratedadull,sullenpersistenceincoarseusages,andrejectedthegracesoflifeasundeservingofattention.ThereisnodoubtthatWashington,whowasalwaysmostscrupulousandexactonpointsofceremony,perceivedthetendencytowardsthismistake,eveninhistime,anddidhisutmosttocorrectit.

IcannotholdwithotherwritersonthesesubjectsthattheprevalenceofvariousformsofdissentinAmerica,isinanywayattributabletothenon-existencethereofanestablishedchurch:indeed,Ithinkthetemperofthepeople,ifitadmittedofsuchanInstitutionbeingfoundedamongstthem,wouldleadthemtodesertit,asamatterofcourse,merelybecauseitWASestablished.But,supposingittoexist,Idoubtitsprobableefficacyinsummoningthewanderingsheeptoonegreatfold,simplybecauseoftheimmenseamountofdissentwhichprevailsathome;andbecauseIdonotfindinAmericaanyoneformofreligionwithwhichweinEurope,oreveninEngland,areunacquainted.Dissentersresortthitheringreatnumbers,asotherpeopledo,simplybecauseitisalandofresort;andgreatsettlementsofthemarefounded,becausegroundcanbepurchased,andtownsandvillagesreared,wheretherewerenoneofthehumancreationbefore.ButeventheShakersemigratedfromEngland;ourcountryisnotunknowntoMr.JosephSmith,theapostleofMormonism,ortohisbenighteddisciples;IhavebeheldreligiousscenesmyselfinsomeofourpopuloustownswhichcanhardlybesurpassedbyanAmericancamp-meeting;andIamnotawarethatanyinstanceofsuperstitiousimpostureontheonehand,andsuperstitiouscredulityontheother,has

haditsoriginintheUnitedStates,whichwecannotmorethanparallelbytheprecedentsofMrs.Southcote,MaryToftstherabbit-breeder,orevenMr.ThornofCanterbury:whichlattercasearose,sometimeafterthedarkageshadpassedaway.

TheRepublicanInstitutionsofAmericaundoubtedlyleadthepeopletoasserttheirself-respectandtheirequality;butatravellerisboundtobearthoseInstitutionsinhismind,andnothastilytoresentthenearapproachofaclassofstrangers,who,athome,wouldkeepaloof.Thischaracteristic,whenitwastincturedwithnofoolishpride,andstoppedshortofnohonestservice,neveroffendedme;andIveryseldom,ifever,experienceditsrudeorunbecomingdisplay.Onceortwiceitwascomicallydeveloped,asinthefollowingcase;butthiswasanamusingincident,andnottherule,ornearit.

Iwantedapairofbootsatacertaintown,forIhadnonetotravelin,butthosewiththememorablecorksoles,whichweremuchtoohotforthefierydecksofasteamboat.Ithereforesentamessagetoanartistinboots,importing,withmycompliments,thatIshouldbehappytoseehim,ifhewoulddomethepolitefavourtocall.Heverykindlyreturnedforanswer,thathewouldlookroundatsixoclockthatevening.

Iwaslyingonthesofa,withabookandawine-glass,ataboutthattime,whenthedooropened,andagentlemaninastiffcravat,withinayearortwooneithersideofthirty,entered,inhishatandgloves;walkeduptothelooking-glass;arrangedhishair;tookoffhisgloves;slowlyproducedameasurefromtheuttermostdepthsofhiscoat-pocket;andrequestedme,inalanguidtone,tounfixm

ystraps.Icomplied,butlookedwithsomecuriosityathishat,whichwasstilluponhishead.Itmighthavebeenthat,oritmighthavebeentheheatbuthetookitoff.Then,hesathimselfdownonachairoppositetome;restedanarmoneachknee;and,leaningforwardverymuch,tookfromtheground,byagreateffort,thespecimenofmetropolitanworkmanshipwhichIhadjustpulledoff:whistling,pleasantly,ashedidso.Heturneditoverandover;surveyeditwithacontemptnolanguagecanexpress;andinquiredifIwishedhimtofixmeabootlikeTHAT?Icourteouslyreplied,thatprovidedthebootswerelargeenough,Iwouldleavetheresttohim;thatifconvenientandpracticable,Ishouldnotobjecttotheirbearingsomeresemblancetothemodelthenbeforehim;butthatIw



ouldbeentirelyguidedby,andwouldbegtoleavethewholesubjectto,hisjudgmentanddiscretion.Youantpartickler,aboutthisscoopintheheel,Isupposethen?sayshe:wedontfollerthat,here.Irepeatedmylastobservation.Helookedathimselfintheglassagain;wentclosertoittodashagrainortwoofdustoutofthecornerofhiseye;andsettledhiscravat.Allthistime,mylegandfootwereintheair.Nearlyready,sir?Iinquired.Well,prettynigh,hesaid;ksteady.IkeptassteadyasIcould,bothinfootandface;andhavingbythistimegotthedustout,andfoundhispencil-case,hemeasuredme,andmadethenecessarynotes.Whenhehadfinished,hefellintohisoldattitude,andtakingupthebootagain,musedforsometime.Andthis,hesaid,atlast,isanEnglishboot,isit?ThisisaLondonboot,eh?That,sir,Ireplied,isaLondonboot.Hemdoveritagain,afterthemannerofHamletwithYoricksskull;noddedhishead,aswhoshouldsay,IpitytheInstitutionsthatledtotheproductionofthisboot!;rose;putuphispencil,notes,andpaperglancingathimselfintheglass,allthetimeputonhishatdrewonhisglovesveryslowly;andfinallywalkedout.Whenhehadbeengoneaboutaminute,thedoorreopened,andhishatandhisheadreappeared.Helookedroundtheroom,andatthebootagain,whichwasstilllyingonthefloor;appearedthoughtfulforaminute;andthensaidWell,goodarternoon.Goodafternoon,sir,saidI:andthatwastheendoftheinterview.

ThereisbutoneotherheadonwhichIwishtoofferaremark;andthathasreferencetothepublichealth.Insovastacountry,wheretherearethousandsofmillionsofacresoflandyetunsettledanduncleared,andoneveryroodofwhich,vegetabledecompositionisannuallytakingplace;wheretherearesomanygrea

trivers,andsuchoppositevarietiesofclimate;therecannotfailtobeagreatamountofsicknessatcertainseasons.ButImayventuretosay,afterconversingwithmanymembersofthemedicalprofessioninAmerica,thatIamnotsingularintheopinionthatmuchofthediseasewhichdoesprevail,mightbeavoided,ifafewcommonprecautionswereobserved.Greatermeansofpersonalcleanliness,areindispensabletothisend;thecustomofhastilyswallowinglargequantitiesofanimalfood,threetimesa-day,andrushingbacktosedentarypursuitsaftereachmeal,mustbechanged;thegentlersexmustgomorewiselyclad,andtakemorehealthfulexercise;andinthelatterclause,themalesmustbeincludedalso.Aboveall,inpublicinstitutions,andthroughoutthewholeofeverytownandcity,thesystemofventilation,anddrainage,andremovalofimpuritiesrequirestobethoroughlyrevised.ThereisnolocalLegislatureinAmericawhichmaynotstudyMr.ChadwicksexcellentReportupontheSanitaryConditionofourL

abouringClasses,withimmenseadvantage.

IHAVEnowarrivedatthecloseofthisbook.Ihavelittlereasontobelieve,fromcertainwarningsIhavehadsinceIreturnedtoEngland,thatitwillbetenderlyorfavourablyreceivedbytheAmericanpeople;andasIhavewrittentheTruthinrelationtothemassofthosewhoformtheirjudgmentsandexpresstheiropinions,itwillbeseenthatIhavenodesiretocourt,byanyadventitiousmeans,thepopularapplause.

Itisenoughforme,toknow,thatwhatIhavesetdowninthesepages,cannotcostmeasinglefriendontheothersideoftheAtlantic,whois,inanything,deservingofthename.Fortherest,Iputmytrust,implicitly,inthespiritinwhichtheyhavebeenconceivedandpenned;andIcanbidemytime.

Ihavemadenoreferencetomyreception,norhaveIsufferedittoinfluencemeinwhatIhavewritten;for,ineithercase,Ishouldhaveofferedbutasorryacknowledgment,comparedwiththatIbearwithinmybreast,towardsthosepartialreadersofmyformerbooks,acrosstheWater,whometmewithanopenhand,andnotwithonethatcloseduponanironmuzzle.

Postscript



ATaPublicDinnergiventomeonSaturdaythe18thofApril,1868,intheCityofNewYork,bytwohundredrepresentativesofthePressoftheUnitedStatesofAmerica,Imadethefollowingobservationsamongothers:

Somuchofmyvoicehaslatelybeenheardintheland,thatImighthavebeencontentedwithtroublingyounofurtherfrommypresentstanding-point,wereitnotadutywithwhichIhenceforthchargemyself,notonlyherebutoneverysuitableoccasion,whatsoeverandwheresoever,toexpressmyhighandgratefulsenseofmysecondreceptioninAmerica,andtobearmyhonesttestimonytothenationalgenerosityandmagnanimity.Also,todeclarehowastoundedIhavebeenbytheamazingchangesIhaveseenaroundmeoneveryside,changesmoral,changesphysical,changesintheamountoflandsubduedandpeopled,changesintheriseofvastnewcities,changesinthegrowthofoldercitiesalmostoutofrecognition,changesinthegracesandamenitiesoflife,changesinthePress,withoutwhoseadvancementnoadvancementcantakeplaceanywhere.NoramI,believeme,soarrogantastosupposethatinfiveandtwentyyearstherehavebeennochangesinme,andthatIhadnothingtolearnandnoextremeimpressionstocorrectwhenIwasherefirst.AndthisbringsmetoapointonwhichIhave,eversinceIlandedintheUnitedStateslastNovember,observedastrictsilence,thoughsometimestemptedtobreakit,butinreferencetowhichIwill,withyourgoodleave,takeyouintomyconfidencenow.EventhePress,beinghuman,maybesometimesmistakenormisinformed,andIratherthinkthatIhaveinoneortworareinstancesobserveditsinformationtobenotstrictlyaccuratewithreferencetomyself.Indeed,Ihave,nowandagain,beenmoresurprisedbyprintednewsthatI

havereadofmyself,thanbyanyprintednewsthatIhaveeverreadinmypresentstateofexistence.Thus,thevigourandperseverancewithwhichIhaveforsomemonthspastbeencollectingmaterialsfor,andhammeringawayat,anewbookonAmericahasmuchastonishedme;seeingthatallthattimemydeclarationhasbeenperfectlywellknowntomypublishersonbothsidesoftheAtlantic,thatnoconsiderationonearthwouldinducemetowriteone.ButwhatIhaveintended,whatIhaveresolvedupon(andthisistheconfidenceIseektoplaceinyou)is,onmyreturntoEngland,inmyownperson,inmyownjournal,tobear,forthebehoofofmycountrymen,suchtestimonytothegiganticchangesinthiscountryasIhavehintedatto-night.Also,torecordthatwhereverIhavebeen,inthesmallestplacesequallywiththelargest,Ihavebeenreceivedwithunsurpassable politeness delicacy sweet temper hospitality consideration and with un

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