American World traveler 45 fall 2014 issue

W O R L D

Featuring

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C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d !

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Traveler

A M E R I C A N

Fall 2014

Published by

American World

Traveler

Tel.: (514) 667-2293www.americanworldtraveler.com

Email: [email protected]

Publisher Michael MorcosEditor-in-chief Greg JamesGraphic Artist Al CheongAdvertising Leo SantiniMarketing Tania TassoneDistribution Royce DillonContributors:Adam Scott Kennedy, Ruth Atherley, Margaret Deefholts, Susan Campbell A. M. Macloughlin, Habeeb Salloum, and Dave Cox.

Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos:Phoenix, Hunan, China

Disclaimer: American World Traveler has madeevery effort to verify that the information provided inthis publication is as accurate as possible. However,we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, orinconvenience sustained by anyone resulting fromthe information contained herein nor for any infor-mation provided by our advertisers.

Welcome to

American World Traveller

In this issue we start our worldwide jour-ney with a visit to the authentic ancientcities in the province of Hunan, China.

We continue to explore several diverseand fascinating destinations in this‘Beautiful China’. While in Asia we visitUluwatu temple for a amazing Kecak playin Wonderful Bali, Indonesia and in Indiawe cruise the backwaters of Kerala.

Down-under we travel ‘New Zealand on aBudget’ and watch the unique wildlife ofMadagascar.

In the Americas we participate in thecountry-style of Door County WI, relaxand refresh in the seaside ‘Secrets’ resortin Huatulco, Mexico and take the off-roadto Ecuador’s award-winning eco lodges.

In Europe we find ourselves in the middleof the Atlantic Ocean as we visit the oftenover-looked islands of The Azores,Portugal. Happy travels!

NO-JET-LAGTM

Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : [email protected]

Why spend days recovering when you can take thishomeopathic remedy during the flight and feelfresher upon arrival at your destination. 32 tablets

in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time.

www.nojetlag.com

A W T

C o n t e n t s

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I n d i a

Cruising The Backwaters Of Kerala

M e x i c o

W e l l - P l a n n e d H u at u l c o

M o r o c c o

T h e S p l e n d o u r O f M a r r a k e s h

T h e r e i s n o p l a c e l i k e

B a l i

China

Hunan Provence’s Ancient Towns

E c u a d o r ’ s

The Azores

I n t h e m i d d l e o f t h e At l a n t i c O c e a n

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New Zealand

On A Budget

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18W a t c h i n g W i l d l i f e i n

M a d a g a s c a r

E x p l o r e 21

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A W A R D - W I N N I N G E C O L O D G E S

Door County, Wisconsin

S u n , s e a a n d s a n d - M i d w e s t - s t y l e

Beautiful China

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Hunan Provence’s Ancient Towns

C h i n a

by Michael Morcos

People residing in the HunanProvince often consider them-selves lucky, as many claim it’s

one of the most beautiful areas of main-land China. With surrounding mountains,gorgeous waterways and bountifulacreage for vibrant agriculture, the rich-ness of the land is hard to not fall in lovewith.

Ancient people of Miao, Dong, Yao andTujia lived among the primeval forestsbefore it became ruled by kings duringthe Zhou Dynasty. Several centuries later,many Han Chinese from the northbecame drawn to the potential of theland and cleared these forests for rice.This continued for many years before itgained brief independence as Ma Chu.However, at the end of the 18th century

the Miao people had an uprising due toovercrowding from the Han and others,mostly because of the central location ofthe Yangzi River and the ImperialHighway. This was also a birthplace ofmore current Chinese rule and politics,as Chairman Mao Zedong was born inthis province and later moved ontobecome one of the most famous individ-uals in modern history.

American World Traveler Fall 2014

Nowadays, after several other skirmishesand a few battles, the people of theHunan Province live very peacefully, liv-ing off the land and creating beautifulhandicrafts for guests who visit. Cuisine,entertainment, music and traditionalgarb are all embraced, especially withinthe smaller towns that have ancient his-tory.

The welcome Miao meal

Heart and soul of many places in theworld comes down to what they eat.Being welcomed into the home of localscan be an incredible way to savor tradi-tion and authenticity in a place like theHunan Province of China. Not to men-

tion, the Miao people have abeautifully simple and hearty styleor dining that can easily be adapt-ed by those who love fresh ingredientsand slow cooked delicacies. Althoughthey represent a small percentage of thepopulation, the pride and color shinesthrough though it’s cuisine and rituals.Many dishes can be served as soup,ranging from sour flavors mixed withvegetables to concoctions including riceand spicy peppers complemented by oilsand ginger.

Hongjiang ancient city

Heading west brings those visiting theHunan Province to the Hongjiang ancientcity. Roughly 80,000 people call thishome, living among traditional greyhoses that twist around ancient alley-ways. Temple life is also ingrained in theeveryday lifestyle.

Unsavory beginnings

Although the town has always boastscharm, there are some other things afootin its past. For instance, many peopleused to visit to partake in opiates orother acts of rebellion back in the day.Presently, locals focus more on offeringtheir traditional wares and highlightingbetter aspects of culture. However, guestsinterested can still see these types ofdens on informational tours.

Rising above reputation

To begin conversations about such pastsand traditions, the old homes now usedas museums and points of interest hostperformances for people who want toknow more about the ancient city. Localswill don period costumes and depict lifefrom centuries ago. Many have this astheir full-time job and can be found inhouses, along public squares, nearpagodas and in front of temples. Theseintimate shows make for a memorableafternoon.

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Off the beaten path

Less commercialization in the city ofHongjiang help preserve its authentic flairand allows for true exploration. Tours arereadily available, but it’s safe to wanderas well on the cobblestone streets. Artworkcarved in stone is plentiful, depictingscene of ancestors in battle or even play-ing music. Some honor the Tao philosophyand other Chinese faiths. Doors alsoseems to be elaborate, covered in sheetmetal and geometric designs made withlarge nails. Be wary though, as some ofthe spaces look public, such as the oldmansions converted into smaller residen-tial dwellings, but are really people’s cur-rent homes.

Qianyang ancient city

Imagine having a hometown that cantrace its roots back to 202 B.C. Manyolder minority populations have felt drawnto stay here due to the area’s strong tiesto ancient history, making for an interest-ing melting pot of culture.

A beautiful past

The streets mimic the nearby flowing riverin design and layout. For two thousandyears people have celebrated life alongthese walkways though their faith andfamilies. This has been protected in vari-ous ways throughout history, but some ofthe ancient walls still stand left over fromancestors a millennia ago.

Chinese antiquing

Superb craftsmanship is still highly valuedin Qianyang ancient city. With backgroundof forestry and bountiful lumber, wood-

working is often the star of the show.Although some residents have store fronts,many choose to hawk their wares andeven create pieces right out on the streetso patrons can have a glimpse at theirhandiwork.

A stroll through the gar-

dens

Much of life is lived outdoors in theseancient towns, as homes tend to be smalland house many family members at once.Also, these houses are built close to eachother so any open space is highly valuedand maintained. This is especially preva-lent in the beautiful gardens found inQianyang ancient city.

A Phoenix rises

Small city life is a marvel to embrace, butHunan province offers a diverse array ofdestinations and things to see outsideancient history. While Phoenix is also con-sidered a city with a rich past, this spot isa little livelier and full of color.

Also known as Fenghuang, it’s well knownthe Miao people have thrived in the areafor more than 5,000 years of recordedhistory. In more modern past, literallymasters and artists have chosen to residethere due to its natural beauty and moun-tainside views. Today, cultural minoritiesstill make up the majority of the popula-tion for a truly unique China travel experi-ence.

Scenic views night and day

Life revolves around a curvy river, as thisdestination is known of the only ancientcity in China with a waterway like this.

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Boats lazily glide through the water fromshop to shop, bringing both workers andtourists packed into the wooden vessels.They are manned by skilled boaters thatuse a long wooden pole to navigatethrough nautical traffic. Homes, stores andtemples are seemingly stacked along theshore, all boasting ancient Chinese archi-tecture and phrases of well-wishing alongtheir roofs.

Colorful and tasty wares

It can be difficult to go hungry in a placelike Phoenix, as there are plenty of tastyopportunities to sample local cuisine.Many meals and snacks are enjoyed onthe streets by sampling small bites fromfood carts. For a sweet ending, guests canpick up the specialty of the city – gingercandy. For something a little slower paced,the tea houses can be the perfect sanctu-ary from bustling city streets. Here tea isrevered and done in a ceremonious way,often using loose leaves to create tradi-tional hot brews that can help relax andeven heal ailments.

River adventures

Transportation along the river is the easi-est way to go. Take a ride for lunch or totry out some souvenir shopping in a funway. Sometimes the river can be crowded,but the excitement of this option overwalking can be a thrill. If a route is chosenwith pit stops along the way, some localscan be seen offering photographs withtraditional, color garb. Tourists can pay asmall fee for these photos and try on theoutfits themselves. Many include beautifulsilver jewelry and intricate headdressesused for celebrations and festivals.

Towering tradition

Boating, strolling and simply admiring theviews are all favorite pastimes in Phoenix,but travellers also tend to flock to the city’smysterious and elaborate places of wor-ship. Some are so old and surrounded inlegend that a true history cannot be decid-ed on – or is completely even lost in time.Most of the architecture dates to the Mingand Qing Dynasties, spanning between1644 and 1911. All of it is very differentand unique, from expanses like theWengchen Pavilion to the spooky tomb ofShen Congwen. Taking not of the sturdyfortresses used to protect Phoenix is also athrill, including both the North Gate andSouth Great Wall.

The grand finale

One of the newest additions to the ancientcity of Phoenix is a large outdooramphitheater. It has a roofed seatingarea so shows can be enjoyed year-round.A popular choice for visitors to town is aperformance called “Phoenix’s TimelessLove”, which is a grand display of thebeauty and culture of this area of China.Not only are there dozens of talented per-formers that take part in the spectacle, theset itself depicts surroundings in a com-plex, symbolic way. Artists and set design-ers have managed to re-create waterfalls,the river and other natural wonders righton stage.

Although landlocked, a trip to the HunanProvince of China can easily be an incred-ible look into the ancient livelihood stillringing true and alive within city walls.

Visit:

www.hnt.gov.cn/english/main.htm

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The Azores -

I n t h e m i d d l e o f t

About midway between the eastcoast of the United States andmainland Portugal sits the Azores,

a collection of nine islands scattered overseveral hundred nautical miles. The closestpoint to Europe from the United States, theAzores were once the one-and-only stop-ping-off point for ocean voyagers travelingbetween the two continents. Today, theAzores are an autonomous region ofPortugal, even though they are more than800 miles west of Portugal’s mainland. Adirect flight from Boston to the Azores takesabout four hours – shorter than a flight toLas Vegas or Aruba.

Because these once uninhabited, remoteislands were settled sporadically over aspan of two centuries, their culture,dialect, cuisine and traditions vary consid-erably from island to island. Farming andfishing are key industries that support theAzorean economy. These traditional tradesgive the Azores an unspoiled, historic andauthentically European feel that is becom-ing harder to find in other nearby loca-

tions. Visitors find plenty to see and dohere, with upscale lodging and restaurantsintegrating with both the tiny, rural townsand the sometimes wild and lush land-scapes that make up the islands.

The Azores are, without question, some ofthe most beautiful islands in the world…and yet they remain a closely-guardedsecret by tourists in the know. Visitors arestill discovering the Azores, and only240,000 Azoreans live within the archipel-ago’s 868 square miles.

Although the Azoreans speak Portuguese,travelers can always find someone whospeaks English and residents are alwayshappy to help.

The Azores have recently earned severalaccolades for their exceptional travel andtourism experiences:

•The National Geographic Center forSustainable Destinations named theAzores as the world’s second mostappealing islands destination

•One of 10 Best Values, USA Today

•Top 10 Places for Whale Watching,Sherman’s Travel

•Top 10 Islands You Never Heard Of,Budget Travel

•Two World Heritage Sites, designated bythe United Nations Educational, Scientificand Cultural Organization (UNESCO)

The Azores’ year-round mild climate givesthe islands a fresh, springlike quality nomatter when you visit. No matter what theweather back home, it’s always between57 and 71 degrees F in the Azores.Summer arrives in July and often staysuntil December. The lava-rich soils, fed byvolcano eruptions of the past, nurturemore than 1,200 species of plants, flowersand trees. The landscape varies fromopen fields lined with country roads to tinytowns perched on oceanfront cliffs.The Azores are home to Portugal’s tallestmountain peak, the only tea plantations in

Portugal


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h e A t l a n t i c O c e a n

Europe, dozens of crater lakes, miles ofrocky coastlines, popular – and politicallycorrect – bullfights, and some 6,000pineapple plantations.

The islands were created by volcanic activ-ity millions of years ago, giving them alandscape that is varied and often dra-matic. Rocky cliffs, crater lakes, geysers,waterfalls and lava caves are all remnantsof Mother Nature’s historical touch, andall make for excellent exploring opportuni-ties for today’s visitor.

In the harbor towns, visitors can watch theday’s catch hauled in from the fishingboats, count the yachts that have sailedinto port for the evening and stay in themanor homes and inns that may haveonce been the luxurious residences ofwealthy sea-faring traders. The cities tellstories about the Azores’ prosperous histo-ry during the time of Portugal’s greatexplorations. Churches and town hallsare built in varied styles including Gothic,Baroque, Manueline and classical archi-

tecture, evoking an old-world charm withnew world functionality.

Visitors have the opportunity to learnabout the 19th century history of whalingin the Azores, when expeditions from theAmericas would stop to recruit crew-mem-bers and teach the locals the art ofscrimshaw and whalebone-carving. Whilewhaling is no longer an industry, whalewatching opportunities are abundant. Anadventurous visitor can see these marinegiants up close and personal with the helpof trained guides piloting fast, inflatableboats.

The Azores sit at the very spot where thetectonic plates for Europe, Africa andNorth America meet. The nine islands ofthe archipelago are divided into threegroups:

Eastern: São Miguel and Santa Maria

Central: Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge,Pico and Faial

Western: Corvo and Flores.

The Azores offer visitors a number ofinnovative lodging options, with the optionto choose from a number of inns andhotels that were once the palaces, manorhomes and monasteries that made up therich history of the region.

The Azores are also the perfect spot forthe adventurer in you. Water sports, yacht-ing, fishing and whale watching are widelyavailable. Equally popular are horsebackriding, cycling and hiking.

Getting to The Azores

Direct flights to the Azores from Boston,Oakland and Toronot are available onlythrough Azores Express, a U.S.-based touroperator and member of the SATA Group.For information and reservations, callAzores Express at 800-762-9995, or visit:www.sata.pt

I n d i a

Cruising The Backwaters Of Kerala

by Margaret Deefholts

My son Glenn looks incredulous.He whispers: “Rs.300 for aneight hour cruise? That’s less

than CA$8.00. Is the boat safe?” I nod andwhisper back. “It’s not a luxury boat – butyes, it’s perfectly safe.”

Riyas Ahammed, who heads up SouthernBackwaters company, is writing up ourtickets. He hands them to me with asmile. “Hurry,” he urges. “The boat isleaving soon.”

We are in the small town of Kollam on thewest coast of India, and are all set to sailthrough the fabled Kerala backwaters—anintricate network of waterways extendingfrom Kollam all the way to the port city ofKochi (Cochin). This day trip will take ushalf-way up the coast as far as Alleppey.Scrambling our way past souvenir stalls

and locals waiting at a bus stop, we boardour motor boat. “Not bad,” says Glennas we settle into our seats on the coveredupper deck. He fans himself withSouthern Backwaters’ publicity pamphlet.“Sticky morning though.”

The upper deck rapidly fills up. The dou-ble-decker vessel seats 80 people, andmost of them are foreigners: young back-packers, German, Italian andScandinavian tourists, several Brits andAussies. We seem to be the onlyCanadians.

The engine roars into life and as we pullaway to midstream, it settles into a steadygrowl. A light, breeze ruffles my hair, andGlenn exchanges his “fan” for binoculars.The waterway, bordered by dense tropicalvegetation, is broad at first but, as I recall

from an earlier trip on a similar boat, wesoon veer off into narrow winding inlets.The view is soothing: waves stippled bysunlight, palm-fringed shores, and fishingnets slung from cantilevered masts whichrear like pterodactyl skeletons against asteel-blue sky.

Sheltered within coconut palm groves, littlevillage settlements are alive with activity:women slap their laundry on stones at thewater’s edge and men cycle along narrowwinding roads with baskets of bananasperched on their back-carriers. Nakedurchins splash in the shallows, bobbing upand down, waving and shouting, “Hullo!Do you have pens? Chocolate?” Fishingnets are spread out to dry along the fore-shore, and small whitewashed churchesgleam in the sun. We chug past elaboraterattan houseboats, where passengers

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palm fronds and creepers tremble thewaters. Water hyacinths lie like thick car-pets on the canal’s surface—denseenough to choke the channels in somespots. We slow down to a wary putter. At avillage jetty, bright yellow boats unloadshimmering loads of fish, and around abend, a festive procession, accompaniedby a drum and flute, heads along anembankment.

By late afternoon, the scenery changes tobroad paddy fields stretching to the hori-zon. Along a beaten-earth track edgingthe water school kids cycle homewards,and farmers carrying sheaves of hayreturn to their villages. Cooking fires beginto flicker like fireflies between the trees.The evening sunlight lays a mellow glowover everything and dusk falls gently onthe tranquil waters. Alleppey’s jetty loomsand we disembark. Reluctantly.

fish, still wriggling, its fins flashing silver inthe sunlight. We clap and give him athumbs up.

The boat pulls up to a jetty and we dis-mount for lunch. The restaurant is a largeairy room with checked purple tableclothsand a simple buffet: fat-grained boiledwhite rice, three types of curried vegeta-bles and a tray of bananas for dessert. Allyou can eat for just a little more than adollar. Later we stop alongside the bank,for a tea break. Fifty cents buys sweetmilky Indian chai and a selection ofsnacks: aloo bondas (deep-fried spicypotatoes wrapped in chick-pea flour),cones of roasted peanuts or coconutbased sweetmeats.

As the warm, lazy hours slip by, we cruisealong channels where green reflections of

snootily deign to acknowledge us as theyloll on their decks sipping shandies or icedcoconut shakes.

Although the scenery along the backwatersis breathtaking, this part of Kerala’s coastis more than just a tourist tropical para-dise. The canals, play an intrinsic part inthe lives of those who live along its banksserving as transport for both people andgoods. We pass a prim sari-clad matronsitting on a wooden bench in a dug-outcanoe, looking for all the world like astately maharani. Crowded municipal fer-ries putter self-importantly past us. Otherbarges, rusty old derelicts, carry cattle,bulging jute gunny sacks and baskets ofcoconuts. Fishermen, bare-bodied exceptfor lungis (cotton loin-cloths) knottedaround their waists, beam and wave. Oneof them hoists his prize catch—a large

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Photo: Camilla Stoddart

N e w Z e a l a n d

On A Budget

by Ruth Atherley

With incredible natural beauty,unique wildlife, fabulous foodand wine, and fascinating

Maori culture, visiting New Zealand is oftenconsidered a bucket list trip. However, adream vacation doesn’t have to cost anarm and a leg – there are many ways tosee the country on a budget.

New Zealand’s seasons are the reverse ofCanada’s. That means that their busysummer season (December to February) issmack-dab in the middle of our winterand that’s when the cost of flights is high-er. By booking your flight outside of thattime frame – even by a few weeks or amonth – you can significantly reduce thecost of your airfare and still enjoy someexcellent weather.

While New Zealand has exceptional fivestar lodges, you can also find good, basicaccommodation that fits a smaller budget.Along many of the major tourist routes,there are reasonably priced motels andmotor lodges – and most include break-fast in the price. Hostels are always anoption – and are a great place to meetfellow travellers. For those inclined to hik-ing (Kiwis call it “tramping”), there arecampsites and a network of huts that areoperated by the Department ofConservation, and passes to stay in themare available for a reasonable cost pernight. For those looking for somethingunique, Maui rents campervans and offersthe opportunity to stay in one of five vine-yards throughout the country. As a part ofthe package, you get a gourmet hamper(a picnic basket) with a bottle of wine andthe chance to meet the vintner. NewZealand also has “freedom camping”where you can park your motorhome orset up your tent and stay at no charge.There are a few rules you must abide by,like staying on public property, using apublic toilet, and picking up your rubbish,but they are straightforward and easy tofollow.

New Zealand has an internationalreputation for gourmet food andexcellent wine, but you don’t need to runup a large bill in an upscale restaurant toeat and drink well. Throughout the coun-try, there are small, family-run bakeriesand cafés that serve some iconic NewZealand dishes like meat pies, lamingtons,caramel slices and sausage rolls. At manyof the cafés, you can also purchase a rea-sonably priced, excellent glass of locallymade wine. In Queenstown, on the SouthIsland, budget-minded travellers who arereally hungry can head to the popularFergburger for one of their delicious andhuge burgers.

New Zealand offers many free attrac-tions. Most national parks are free to visit,as well as many museums, including NewZealand’s national museum Te Papa. Ifyou are into history, the entire city ofNapier is basically a museum in whichyou can walk around. It was hit by anearthquake in 1931 and then subsequentfires destroyed most of the town. Today,walking around the downtown core is likea time machine to the 1930s. Napier hasthe largest collection of Art Deco buildingsin the Southern Hemisphere.

If you take the time to speak with some ofthe locals in the places you visit, you canfind out about all of the amazing, budget-friendly activities and places that NewZealand has to offer. And don’t be sur-prised if the Kiwi you speak with offers tobuy you a local beer or a glass of NewZealand wine; it’s just their way of makingyour trip extra special – at no charge.

Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.ca)has direct non-stop flights from Vancouverto Auckland and offers flights from manyother North American cities. For moreinformation about New Zealand, pleasevisit: www.NewZealand.com.

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We were there for the wildlife and we didindeed encounter some truly spectacularcreatures in some amazing places. Wheregood habitat remains, the experience isakin to walking within a very large zooenclosure as you know the target speciesis ‘in there somewhere’ and that you justhave to look. The experienced localguides know their stuff and rarely fail todeliver on your expectations. On the topof most naturalists’ lists are the lemursand in some places these are easy to find,watch and enjoy. Over 100 species ofthese primates are now recognised and

African island, the landmass is absolutelyhuge and many, academics and laymenalike, argue that it should in fact beclassed as a continent, certainly fromgeological and ecological perspectives atthe very least. During her university stud-ies, Vicki had spent an entire year on theisland, working as a volunteer on variousenvironmental projects and, until my ownvisit, I had always been surprised at howlittle of the island she had seen during hertwelve months there but now I know why.It takes forever to get anywhere, not leastto the island/ continent itself!

W a t c h i n g W i l d l i f e i n

M a d a g a s c a r

by Adam Scott Kennedy

In 2013, my wife Vicki and I were fortu-nate to lead a dedicated wildlife holidayto the Indian Ocean ‘island’ of

Madagascar. A year later, I am still unsurehow I feel about the country that I haddreamed of visiting since reading GeraldDurrell’s “The Aye-Aye and I” as a child. Itis a place of enormous contrasts, the grav-ity of which I’ll endeavour to encapsulatehere.

Perhaps I should first explain the use ofparentheses over the word ‘island’?Although it is typically referred to as an

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they vary in size from the tiny MouseLemurs (30g of cuteness fitting perfectly inthe palm of your hand) to the solid-look-ing Indri which weighs in at a hefty 9kg.The diversity is a reflection of the differenthabitats that exist on Madagascar, fromlush tropical rainforests to dry spinyforests and Baobab-dotted deserts. Weencountered 23 species on our visit andour favourite was the Verreaux’s Sifaka,seen jump-dancing at Berenty.

The birdlife is equally remarkable.Although we encountered 190 speciesover the course of 25 days (I’m moreused to seeing that total in a single day inKenya!), the proportion of endemicspecies is very high and entire bird fami-lies occur that are found nowhere else onEarth, such as Vanga, Coua, Asity, Mesite,Ground-Roller and Tetraka.

The reptiles present a really interestingchallenge because many are so difficult toobserve without help from a local expert.Madagascar is the hub of chameleondiversity and home to the largest andsmallest species known to exist, from15mm Brookesia species (yes that is fullygrown!) to the 70cm Parson’s Chameleon,but not even the big ones are easy tofind. We observed 24 reptile species,including 9 chameleons, and the highlightwas when our guide pointed out a SatanicLeaf-tailed Gecko to the group; it was soamazingly camouflaged that even whenthe guide put his laser pen on the animalat a range of less than 1m, half of ourgroup could still not make out what theywere looking at! Although numeroussnakes exist, there are no venomousspecies on the island.

The following four sites are essential to avisitors’ itinerary and it would be a greatshame to omit even one from anywildlife-based tour of Madagascar.

•Perinet-Mantadia

•Ranomafana

•Ankarafantsika

•Berenty


19All are home to a fantastic diversity ofbirds, lemurs and reptiles and offer greatopportunities for photography. Coupledwith the warmth and friendliness of theMalagasy people, it might be difficult tocomprehend at this point how there couldpossibly be a downside.

Having travelled to over 35 countries insearch of wildlife, I was genuinelyshocked and saddened at how little nativehabitat remains in Madagascar.Commuting from one destination toanother, we travelled across the countryfor many hours, sometimes entire dayswithout seeing so much as lush lake or acommunity forest where birds could bewatched. Vast quantities of the islandhave been clear-felled of native trees and,typically, all that remains is parchedgrassland that cannot even support live-stock. Poverty, high population growthand unsustainable demand for land andnatural resources are not uncommonacross the developing world but inMadagascar, the scale is truly staggering.Less visible is the lack of wildlife protec-tion in the few remaining areas wherehabitat exists and the decimation of lemurpopulations for the bushmeat trade con-tinues.

Experienced eco-tourists may also be sur-prised at how wildlife guiding is carriedout here. It is far more aggressive thanwhat I have experienced anywhere andon several occasions I was obliged to stopthe local guides from ‘chasing down’ veryrare birds and lemurs as the experiencewas troubling most of our party, such wasthe intensity to deliver the species and toget the tip. The concept of being consid-erate towards the animal was lost onquite a few of our guides, despite ourattempts to educate along the way.

In summary, the truth is that amazingwildlife of Madagascar is amongst themost threatened anywhere in the worldand if you’re dreaming of such an adven-ture, I would strongly advise that you doso sooner rather than later … while flockslast!

Beautiful

China

Join us as we Explore The Worldly Cities of

Beijing & Dalian

The Magnificent Provinces of

Shanxi, Guangdong, Henan, Qinghai

and the Legendary Silk Road

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Shanxi province is one of the birthplaces of the Chinese peo-ple with a long history, ancient civilization and a largeamount of historical and cultural heritage. Chinese creation

myths began here, and there is evidence of Stone Age tools and relics.Today, the province is more renowned for its food and carving, andour visit was filled with both!

We were first introduced to the ‘King of Noodles’, Datong SlicedNoodles are known throughout China as the best ever – for noodlelovers, these sliced noodles resemble willow tree leaves and aresmooth and delicious!

The area also produces a couple of wonderful wines, Xinghuacun FenWine, also called the old Fen wine, and Zhuyeqing wine. Xinghuacunwine is clear, sweet and scented and famous for its color, flavor andtaste. Fen wine is a model of a light, scented wine, and its history canbe traced back to as early as 1400 years ago when the name“Fenqing” wine first appeared. Zhuyeqing is golden and transparentwith a hint of green and offers a unique scent with a sweet taste anda little bitterness which lingers on your tongue for a long time.

We then were introduced to Gaoping “Ten Big Bowls”. This filling mealconsists of ten rather unique dishes: walnut meat, meat ball soup,Chuan meat soup, egg soup, swan eggs, tender rice and bean soupand a couple more. Each dish has a very special taste and consists ofboth vegetables and meat, including the distinctive and delicious veg-etarian dish of swan eggs. At the end of the meal, we enjoyed a deli-cious sweet dessert. The Ten Big Bowls are often found in banquets forweddings, funerals, baby showers, housewarmings and more.

Datong is well known for coal carving, as the material is found inabundance. The irony is not lost, as coal can be both a harsh pollu-tant and a beautiful and impressive form of art----coal carving. Coalcarving from Datong is unique with clear lines and delicate features.Exquisite works of coal have been created in the forms of famousChinese personalities, and carvings as vivid as black and white pho-tos.Lancheng Town of Lan County in Shanxi is the homeland of flour

sculpture. Yes – FLOUR sculpture! Well-known throughout the country,the local artisans are notorious for their perfection. Flour sculptingrequires hours of digilence and patience; materials have to be chosenvery cautiously and the many steps in production - squeezing, cutting,twisting, pressing, spreading, folding, embedding, arranging, com-pressing, painting and color matching needs a great deal of attention!The final pieces are bought as symbols of prosperity, longevity, fortuneand happiness.

But what most impressed me were the intricate and magnificentTaiyuan Jade Carvings. This art form has a long history and the tech-nique is both delicate and elegant while working these high-qualitystones.

Not to be missed is the ancient City of Pingyao which is located cen-tral Shanxi. Known for its history and culture, it was added to the worldheritage list by the UNESCO in 1997. The world heritage committeerecognises it as the most intact and best-preserved ancient county inChina and an outstanding example of the cities of Han ethnic groupduring the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The precious historical sites andcultural relics to be found here are mostly well preserved, including thecity walls, the Chenghuang Temple and Rishengchang moneyexchange.

This area of China is a gourmets dream and an Artists paradise!

Visit: sxta.com.cn/en/

sxta.com.cn/fr

P r o v i n c e o f S h a n x i


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P r o v i n c e o f H e n a n

History buffs rejoice! The name of the province Henan comesfrom its geographic location - Henan means 'the south ofthe river', as the province lies south of China's Yellow River.

It covers an area of over 160,000 square kilometers. Henan is thebirthplace of the Chinese nation, the cradle of China's 5000-year-longcivilization and the place of origin of many Chinese family names aswell.

Of all areas in China, Henan is one of the few provinces that haveactively collected and protected more historical relics than in any otherpart of the country.

Our first stop was in Kaifeng, one of the ancient capitals, where we vis-ited the Iron Pagoda (Tie Ta) of the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127).Tie Ta offers a pleasant stroll through gardens with statues, a templeand along a small river. The pagoda itself is an 1000 year old struc-ture that was built around 900 AD. Visitors can climb to the top and geta great view across Henan University campus and the city of Kaifeng.

In the city of Anyang we found the Shang Dynasty ruins, which were animportant part of human cultural and historic heritage. The ShangDynasty Ruins, also known as the 'Yin Ruins', are famous because of theunique style of the large palace and its grand mausoleums, in whichemperors of the Shang Dynasty are buried. Visiting these ruins a visi-tor can feel the true weight of the History of China, amazing and inspir-ing!

Travelling through the province, we visited the Songshan Mountain thatlie to the southwest of Zhengzhou. It is one of the most famous moun-

tains in China because of the rugged beauty of its peaks and theBonsai-like appearance of the beautiful old trees that are found there.

Songshan Mountain also proved to be the favorite part of my trip, avisit to the Shaolin Temple, the most famous Buddhist temple in China.It is reputed to be 'the Number One Temple under Heaven' and wasadded to UNESCO's World Cultural & Natural Heritage List in 2010. Itis the cradle of Chinese Zen Buddhism and Shaolin Martial Arts likeShaolin Cudgel. The Shaolin Temple embraces many exciting attrac-tions, including the Hall of Heavenly Kings (Tianwangdian), theMahavira Hall (Daxiongbaodian), the Pagoda Forest, the DharmaCave and the Martial Art Training Center as well as a virtual guide forvisitors. The scenery is also spectacular as there are vivacious wild flow-ers and pine forests filled with birds singing - a beautiful scene full oflife and vitality is offered to visitors.

No trip to Henan would be complete without a visit to the LongmenGrottos.

As one of the three most famous treasures houses of stone sculpturesin China, Longmen Grottos in Luoyang was listed as the world cultur-al heritage by the UNESCO in 2000. The grottos were started around495 A.D., when Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty movedthe capital to Luoyang, and were continuously built throughout theperiods of the Eastern Wei Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. The scenerymeasures 1,000 meters from north to south, where there are over2,000 niches, 40 pagodas, 3,600 steles and over 100,000 statues.

The entire grottos are divided into stree sections, and niches of varioussized are carved on the mountainsides. Housed in the niches are fig-urines varying in expressions and gestures, the largest surpassing tenmeters in height while the smallest only several centimeters.

History, culture and ceremony come together perfectly in this lovelyChinese province.

Visit: en.hnta.cn/

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In the province of Guangdong, food is a centerpiece of life, anddespite its vibrant sight-seeing, travelers usually come toGuangdong to shop and eat, but there is some sight-seeing to

be done as well!

Guangdong is considered the birthplace of what westerners call'Chinese food' (Cantonese food). Here you can grab the authentictaste of sweet & sour pork, wonton soup and dim-sum. The food isplentiful, delicious and inexpensive, and few travelers can leave thiscity hungry!

Food isn’t the only inexpensive item found in Guangzhou. There arecountless huge markets specializing in almost any made-in-Chinaproducts, including Chinese tea, herbs, clothes, watches, electron-ics and toys.

The province does have cultural areas that reflect the modern andthe past. In 2007, UNESCO named the Kaiping Diaolou andVillages in China as a World Heritage Site, due to its fusion ofChinese and Western structures and decorations. Many uniquelocales await us.

A Xiguan Residence is an example of the traditional Cantonesearchitecture from the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic Era.These houses can be found in throughout the city, including one ofthe most famous located at 18 Baoyuan North Street. The luxurywithin these homes makes it obvious to see how these lovely homeswere occupied by the upper class in the olden days.

We later visited the Chen Clan Academy, which is a magnificentlypreserved example of 19th century architecture. It was the ancestralshrine of a wealthy family and now is a museum with many itemsand articles including ivory sculptures and artistic statues.

We continued this unique adventure by visiting Canton Tower. Thetallest structure in China, it has an impressive observation deck fea-

P r o v i n c e o f

G u a n g d o n g

turing various restaurants, a 4-D theater and other entertainmentvenues within. A really exceptional and entertaining adventure, buta little dizzying as well!

Our next stop was the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall which is dedicat-ed to the founder of the Republic of China and local hero Dr. SunYat-Sen. It was constructed in 1931 and built on the original site ofSun Yat-sen's presidential office on Yuexiu Hill. The historical touraround the Hall and grounds was informative and enlightening.

A visit to Shamian Island introduces outlanders to the influence thatthe British and French have had on China. The buildings andstreets of this former British and French concession have been beau-tifully renovated, and the uniqueness of the blend has created anoasis of tranquility in an otherwise bustling and hectic city!Walking through the streets is a trip down history, and one of themost fascinating buildings we ran across was Our Lady of LourdesChapel. The architecture reflects the colonial era of 19th Century,and it has a unique atmosphere.

As our trip drew to a close, we enjoyed a couple of great meals andreflected on this wonderful province!

Visit: foreign.visitgd.com/Eng/index.html


Due to its elevation, this province of China is well knownfor its natural beauty and alpine attractions. There aremany lakes, mountains and grasslands here, and the

area is sparsely populated. Known for its hospitality, many touristsfrom the hotter climes of Southern and Eastern China travel here,as July and August are quite mild and comfortable, making theprovince an ideal summer retreat.

Our visit centered on the natural wonders of Qinghai, and theprovince boasts one of China’s largest animal reserves. We weresurrounded by snow-covered mountains, icy peaks, the Gobidesert, vast pastures and over 500 species of wild animals. On thisday we were lucky enough to see wild camels, chiru, white-lippeddeer, black storks and many yaks.

We then moved on to Ox-Heart Mountain (dubbed "the Chinesemini-Alps") for some serious hiking. The views were outstanding andtrails varied from easy to extreme – a climber’s dream!

Qinghai Lake is another tourist attraction we visited. It is the largestsaltwater lake in China located on the Tibetan Plateau, "Roof of theWorld" and lies 3,600m above sea level. The surrounding area ismade up of rolling grasslands and populated by ethnic Tibetans.

Winding our way to lower altitudes and heading towards theQinghai Lakes, we passed through the massive – and I mean MAS-SIVE - Qinghai grasslands. The scenery is filled with Tibetan yak

and sheep herders and the grasslands stretch as far as the eye cansee. At Qinghai Lake, the sunrise is a treat, as it rises directly outof the lake. The area has numerous bike trails and we took fulladvantage, enjoying the wonderful views and having a picnic by theshore.

Situated in the central southern part of the Qaidam Basion, theQarhan Salt Lake occupies 5,856 square kilometers, the largest saltlake in China and the second largest in the world only after theUyuni Salt Lake. Winds and sunlight in the desert have created athick and hard crystalized salt crust on the lake. The Qinghai-TibetHighway and Railway run above the salt crust，forming a magnifi-cent scene of motor vehicles running beside blue water in the saltlake. The world-renowned Wanzhang Salt Bridge spanning the lakewas built with salt without any piers or rails. It is broad and smoothlike a silk belt that divides the lake into two parts.

After a few more hours of driving, we got to Gui De, which is at theorigin of the Yellow River. A boat trip down the turquoise-greenhued river was relaxing and exhilarating at the same time, and Iwas reminded of the US's Colorado River!

As we were winding down our tour, we stopped at the KumbumMonastery (Ta’ersi). This Tibetan temple has been practicing forover 400 years, and the weight of time and prayer is almost palpa-ble.

Finally, we arrived back in Xining, and enjoyed a couple of bowls ofniangpi , a specialty of the area. A great set of activities among thenatural wonders of this magnificent Chinese Province!

Visit: www.qhly.gov.cn/en/

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P r o v i n c e o f Q i n g h a i

26

Sports, tourism, culture and trade all come together in this“bright northern pearl", a rapidly expanding city hailed asNortheast Asia’s International Shipping Centre and the

"Hong Kong of the North."

Travelling through this bustling city, its beauty is undeniable and it isrenowned for its ‘Square Culture’, as there are more than eightysquares in Dalian, the most well-known being Xinghai Square, thelargest square in Asia. The square covers a total area of 45,000square meters and the name of the square means "the Sea of Stars"in Chinese. It refers to the shape and design of the center of thesquare, which looks like a star, with two white marble pillars and 9large wings. The square was built to honor Hong Kong's return toChina in 1997 and represents the "New Spirit of Dalian". Quite strik-ing and unique!

We continued by driving on Dalian city’s south shore along BinhaiRoad. Pleasant and aimed at tourists, the road was built in 1970s,and in the 1980s it became a renowned scenic spot. Binhai Road is32 kilometers long, running through 12 tourist areas along the coast-line, including well-groomed golf clubs and sandy beaches.

We stopped at Xinghai Bay Beach, China's largest man-made beach(45,000 cubic meters of sand) formally opened in 1997. This beachand sports center has a Kilometer of beaches and aside fromdesswimming and sun tanning, tourists can also walk along its threewharves filled with shops and restaurants.

We then proceeded to visit the historical Japanese-Russian Prison Sitelocated in Jiguanshan (Cockscomb Mountain) in a relatively remotearea of Dalian. The prison was started when the Russians were occu-pying in 1902. The old prison site had also been a Russian cavalrygarrison and field hospital. After the Japanese-Russian War, theJapanese occupied Dalian and expanded the original Russian prisonarchitecture. There were about 700 people executed in the prisonbetween 1942 and 1945. Since the 1970s, the Japanese-RussianPrison Site Museum has collected about 200 items dated between the

years of 1894 and 1945, including images, photographs, stonetablets and items.

Further along, the history lesson continued at the East Crest MountainJiguanshan Russo-Japanese War sites located in the northeast ofDalian City. In 1904, this was an important battlefield of the easternline of defense in the Russo-Japanese War. The tour is quite in depth,with visits to the East Crest Mountain North fortress, Erlongshanfortress, and the Lookout Fort ruins.

Our final stop was at the Olympic Plaza, both impressive and osten-tatious. There is a Wal-Mart Super Center underneath the OlympicRings and you can find enough fried chicken, glazed donuts and bar-becue ribs for a Fourth of July Celebration! There are sporting good stores under the stadiums edge and theentire area is surrounded with lush grass, flowers, fountains andmusic. A visitor’s paradise, the Olympic Square, whose foundationwas laid by Mr. Samaranch, president of the International OlympicCommittee, in September 1998, is imposing and striking. TheOlympic Rings, symbolizing the Olympic spirit, stand in the north partof the 42,000-square-meter public square. For soccer fans, a giantscreen shows live football matches during football season, attractingnumerous local fans who crowd the square.

Of all our travels through China, I think that the clearest example oftourist friendly locations is Dalian!

Visit: en.visitdl.com/Web/

D a l i a n

B e i j i n g

In literature, poems and old-time films, it is known as Peking! Buttoday, it is Beijing, the capital of the People's Republic of China.It is one of the most populous cities in the world and a metropo-

lis located in northern China.

Culture, culture everywhere! There are so many choices to make, soplanning your trip is essential.

Ours began with a trip into antiquity and a visit to the Ming tombs.Out of 16 emperors who ruled China during the Ming dynasty(1368-1644), 13 are entombed at the southern foot of TianshouShan (the Chinese name Shisan Ling, the 13 Tombs). The groundsare charming and include the Sacred Way, also known as ChanglingSacred Way, which leads to the Changling Tomb (built in 1409) ofthe third Emperor of the Ming Dynasty, Emperor Zhu Di and hisEmpress Xu lie. It is the largest, most ornate and the best preservedof the thirteen tombs, and has three courtyards in the front and a“Treasure City” around the back. A fascinating trip through China’spast.

We moved on to another monument from Chinese history, theForbidden City. They say that any tour of Beijing would be incompletewithout a visit to the Forbidden City and upon seeing it you under-stand why. Starting with entering through Tian'anmen, the Gate ofHeavenly Peace, the opulence is astounding. After walking across alarge, brick-paved square, you will reach the main entrance to thePalace, Wumen (the Meridian Gate). Once within, the outer court ismade up of three main buildings, the Taihedian (Hall of Supreme

Harmony), Zhonghedian (Hall of Central Harmony) and theBaohedian (Hall of Preserving Harmony), all areas used by theemperors of old who would attended grand ceremonies, host ban-quets or conduct state affairs. There are several side gardens andinteresting halls to explore. The inner court holds another set of threehalls, the Palace of Heavenly Court , Hall of Union, and the Palaceof Earthly Tranquility. Smaller than the Outer Court halls, the threehalls of the Inner Court were the official residences of the Emperorand the Empress. The tapestries, furniture and decorations were evi-dence of the riches held by Chinese emperors. It was an immensefull day of discovery and a wonderful way to become immersed intoChina’s past.

And what visit would be complete without a stop to marvel at theWorld Wonder that is the Great Wall!

Listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO in 1987, the Great Wallstretches almost 9000 kilometers from east to west. Resembling agigantic dragon, the Great Wall twists up and down across deserts,grasslands, mountains and plateaus. Over 2000 years old, somesections have become ruins or have been reclaimed by nature, but itis still one of the most fascinating attractions in the world due to itsarchitectural grandeur and historical significance. Being so immense,most travelers must choose their section to discover, we picked theHuanghuacheng Section and were pleasantly surprised about howit was an ideal place to see the Great Wall.

A little off the beaten track, we were able to enjoy all of the beautyof the Wall with none of the crazy crowds that are found elsewherealong its remarkable length. It also happens to be only place whereyou can see the Wall cross a body of water. We went to one of therestaurants nearby after our hike on the wall and were impressed atboth the quality and price of the food. Going to see this magnificenthuman achievement took up almost a whole day, but it was worthevery minute.

Visit: english.visitbeijing.com.cn/

french.visitbeijing.com.cn/


27

between two large sand dunes. Although the area is very arid, thepool doesn't dry up.

From Dunhuang we entered Xinjiang, the biggest autonomous regionin China. Xinjiang has the second biggest desert in the world,Taklamakan, which sets the tone of the Silk Road. But Xinjiang is farbeyond desert. It has the Tianshan Mountain and the breathtakingnatural scenery along Kanas Lake. It also has the biggest wind powerplant in Asia, ruins of the ancient civilizations, and the Grand Canyonwhere locals call the “ghost town” (it sounds like ghost crying whenthe sound of wind echoes in the valley). Two of the most visited citiesin Xinjiang are Ürümqi and Turpan.

A good Silk Road tour can usually be experienced within two weeksbut can easily be extend to one month if central Asia and Europe por-tions are added. The itinerary may vary depending on the season andmethod of travel.

The few stops we could make along the Silk Road were just a samplingand our appetite for discovering more is growing – we will return!

Visit:

www.travelchina.gov.cn/tirms/front/en_US/routes.html

The Silk Road, or Silk Route, is a series of trade and culturalroutes that allowed interaction of the regions of the Asiancontinent connecting the West and East by linking traders,

merchants, pilgrims, monks, soldiers, nomads, and urban dwellersfrom China and India to the Mediterranean Sea !

The Silk Road extends 4,000 miles (6,437 kilometres) and derives itsname from the lucrative trade in Chinese silk beginning during theHan Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD). So lucrative in fact, that the Chineseextended the Great Wall of China to ensure the protection of the traderoute. Many cultures have used and influenced the Silk Road and itsfeatures, including the Persians, Romans, Armenians, Indians, andBactrians, and even Arab traders became prominent in latter cen-turies.

On our Silk Road tour we reach the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang,also known as 1000-Buddha cave. This World Cultural Heritage siteis famous for its countless beautiful Buddha sculptures and Frescos.The Sounding Sand Dunes & Crescent Moon Spring is another must-see in Dunhuang. This place is quite literally an oasis in the desert. TheSounding Sand Dunes are famous for the sounds that wind makeswhen blowing over the dunes. The spring’s name derives from thecrescent moon shape the small pool of spring water has taken

China Tourism Introduces New Brand Logo

China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made “Beautiful China” the tag line of its

tourism and introduced a new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the new

logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hiero-

glyph in the background means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guid-

ing a couple around. The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts -

vitality, harmony and green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has

been going on for thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China”

logo represents China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.

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T h e S i l k R o a d C h i n a


Today, their success in creating a tourismproject with minimum environmentalimpact resulted in the region receiving theprestigious Green Globe Award and alsobecoming the first destination in theAmericas to receive the covetedEarthCheck Gold Certification. “Welearned from making mistakes in othertourism regions- growing too fast withouttaking the environment into account.” saysChavez. “Here we endeavoured to buildaround and with nature to preserve thevery attractions that draw people here inthe first place.”

An eye to careful planning was alsoapparent as we drove through the tinymain town of La Crucecita (little cross) en

Pristine, primal attrac-

tions coupled with world

class creature comforts

prove that nature and

luxury can coexist in har-

mony.

I am always up for new adventures, soI was delighted to explore Huatulco eventhough I had no idea where it was, noreven how to pronounce it properly. (It'spronounced “wah-tool-co” and it's on thePacific Ocean below the foothills of theSierra Madre Mountain range located inthe Mexican state of Oaxaca-pronounced“wah-ha-ka”.) But as we began our

descent into what looked like the land thattime forgot, I wondered for a momentwhat I'd gotten myself into. It certainly wasremote. Directly below there was nothingbut vast expanses of emerald green forestsflanking craggy cliffs whipped by wildcobalt seas. But just as I wondered wherein this wild tangle of nature we'd actuallybe able to land... a runaway appeared,and we touched down.

We were greeted by our guide AlbertoChavez of Amstar Tours from whom wereceived an entire encyclopedic learningabout the region over the next week. Hispassion for the unique biodiversity of thisarea was absolutely infectious, and as aformer biologist his knowledge was in-depth. But the foremost point he wantedto drive home was that the preservation ofnature there was no accident.

A Little Background...

In 1985, the Mexican governmentand FONATUR (Fondo Nacional deTurismo) decided to create their first sus-tainable tourism region. They choseHuatulco for its eclectic natural offerings.

M e x i c oW e l l - P l a n n e d H u at u l c o

by Susan Campbell

30

route to the resort. The roads were excel-lent, the sidewalks clean and the neigh-bourhoods well-laid out in tidy little gridswith beautifully landscaped proprieties. Nogarbage-lined alleyways, meanderingchickens, beat-up pick-up trucks or wan-dering stray dogs in sight. Though thisurban zone was built some 25 years ago,everything still looks brand new. And theirlovely little church- Parroquia de NuestraSeñora de Guadalupe boasts a 20-meter-tall image of the Virgin of Guadalupe,apparently the largest one in the world.

There is also a small touristic zone ofvendors there where you can purchaseunique souvenirs like “alebrijes”- brightlypainted wood carvings of mythical crea-tures that originated in the state's capitalcity of Oaxaca. There are no fast foodoutlets, though there are many diningspots where you can sample local cuisinelike tamales wrapped in banana leaves,tlayudas- flatbreads topped with blackbean puree and quesillo (soft whitecheese), and their signature moles madewith local chocolate. And if you're reallyadventurous, you can also try the localdelicacy “chapulines”-fried grasshopperstopped with salt and lemon. (I passed onthat one though.)

World Class Creature

Comforts

I can't say I was surprised by the opu-lence that greeted us in the lobby ofSecrets Huatulco Resort & Spa. That'sbecause I'm a huge fan of this upscaleadults-only all-inclusive resort brand. Ihave stayed at six others throughoutMexico and the Caribbean and they havenever disappointed. They truly do deliveron their promise of “Unlimited Luxury”.Top-shelf drinks at numerous bars and in-room mini-fridge refreshed daily, first-ratecuisine in numerous dining spots where noreservations are required, beachside serv-ice and 24/7 room service keeps yourthirst quenched and your hunger satedaround the clock. Then there are specialtynights with massive buffets and live enter-tainment as well. AND no tacky bracelets!

pineapple topped with melted cheese seri-ously blew me away.

On land, history buffs will enjoy thenew Copalita Archaeological Eco-Park-35hectares of well-preserved ruins of ancientcivilizations including a civil-ceremonialcentre, plazas, temples and a ball court.There's also a small modern museum withlots of artifacts. And a trip up to themountain town of Pluma Hidalgo to visitlocal artisan coffee plantations is also fun.But not to be missed is the natural mudbath.

Where the Copalita River meets thesea, there is a mineral-rich mud that theancients thought had healing powers.Even if it doesn't, it's still a fabulous natu-ral skin exfoliation treatment. For a fewdollars, you can be slathered in it, then letit dry in the sun, and later rinse off in thesea. The result is as good as any priceyspa treatment: baby-soft skin! And thescenery on that beach is also well worththe trip.

Safe, clean, modern, and yet primaland exhilarating, Huatulco is a wonderfulexample of the new kind of eco-tourismregion savvy travelers will be heading forthis year.

Airlines from Canada that go thereinclude Air Canada, AeroMexico, Unitedand Sunwing.

www.visitmexico.com/en/huatulcowww.secretsresorts.com

This Secrets is one of the newer resortsin Huatulco, built in 2011 on its ownstretch of golden sand in Conejos Bay, itreceived the AAA Four Diamond Award in2013. And though it is a BIG complexcascading down the mountain with 399oceanfront suites connected by an impres-sive sky tower overlooking a massivewinding water-circuit of pools, it's stilldwarfed by the grandeur of the dramaticnatural scenes surrounding it. And theircliffside spa is one of the most beautifuland luxurious retreats I have ever experi-enced.

As far as activities, you could keep busyfor days- snorkeling, hobie cat sailing,taking their fitness and yoga classes, andjoining their special events. Or you couldjust lounge around the beach and take inthe stunning scenery. The resort is largeenough that if you're not into the vibethat's happening around you, you cansimply move on to where it is. But thoughit was really difficult to tear myself awayfrom such ever-present pampering (evenmy swim-out suite had its own whirlpooltub) I did want to get a real sense of theregion. And the only way to do that is byboat.

Maritime Pleasures &

Terrestrial Treasures

With 36 stunning beaches spreadacross nine bays to explore, a guided boattour is a must. The scenic vistas from thewater include natural blowholes, rock artsculptures, secret virgin beaches and spec-tacular cliffs. But I'm an avid marine lifelover so what I really wanted to see washiding underneath the waves.

“Go find me some dolphins!” I jokinglyurged the captain. Then to my surprise, heabruptly changed course and headedstraight out to sea. Within minutes wewere surrounded by a curious pod of myfavourite ever-smiling marine mammals.Incredible! And snorkeling nearby, I spot-ted many species of colorful fish I'd neverseen before. Diving is also supposed to beexcellent in this region, and if you go atthe right time of year, you're also bound tosee lots of migrating whales.

Later, we stopped for lunch at MagueyBay- a full service beach with a carnival-like atmosphere. It was filled with familiesenjoying water sports of every ilk andpatronizing the many surf-side eateries.We ate at El Camaron Gigante (GiantShrimp) and their oven-fired jumboshrimp and cream sauce baked in a half-

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M o r o c c o

T h e S p l e n d o u r O f M a r r a k e s h

Article by Habeeb Salloum, Photos: Michael Morcos

34

Situated in the middle of a fertileplain and incorporating manyenclosed and open gardens,

Marrakesh is surrounded by huge olive,orange and palm orchards, and is over-shadowed by the snow-peaked 4,177 m(13,700 ft) high Djebel Toubkal, the highestmountain in Morocco. One of the mostfascinating and mysterious of cities, thisancient metropolis has a fairyland setting.Its splendid pinkish structures, colourfullydressed inhabitants, ageless craftsmen atwork, historic remains and its renownedJamaa el Fna Square complement its loca-tion and make it an enchanting town - oncevisited, never forgotten.

Marrakesh with its glorious past knownto many as: ‘Empress of the Sahara’ isone of the country's four Imperial Capitals.Labelled the ‘Pearl of Morocco's South’

It was founded in the 11th century, as thecapital of this newly established empire byYusuf ibn Tashfin, the first Almoravide sul-tan. In the ensuing years, it was enlargedand beautified with fine palaces andmosques by the subsequent Almoraviderulers and those of the Almohade, andSaadian Dynasties. Today, the city withover 1,500,000 inhabitants has expandeduntil it has become the third largest inMorocco. Yet, it is the vestiges from its

illustrious past that still give it a bewitchingcharm.

The town has spread beyond its ancientwalls into a section called Ville Nouvellewhere most modern homes, official build-ings, businesses and luxury hotels arelocated. Its wide fruit-laden lemon,orange and palm lined avenues, edged bypink-ochre attractive houses and spaciousgardens give it a picturesque and invitingaura. The traditional architectural design,evolved to fit into the modern world, andattractive colour of these structures imbuemodern Marrakesh with a breath-takingappeal.


manufacturing endless leather products,are like a medieval assembly line in fullproduction.

When visitors tire of Moroccan history,architecture and ancient streets, they can,if they wish, enjoy the activities of themodern world. The newer part of the city,called Gueliz, joined to the old city by theAvenue Muhammad V, has excellent gar-dens, golf courses, nightclubs, and discos.Most hotels have swimming pools andentertainment and, in the nearby toweringhills, one can hunt or mountain-climb.

The most affluent section of the new city isalong Muhammad VI Avenue – thelongest avenue in Morocco. As we walkedon the Avenue our guide quoted morethan once these words taken from anEnglish poem but altered somewhat “Letus see the handsome mansions where thewealthy love to stroll and dwell.”

On the other hand, if one wants to savourthe best of the rich Moroccan folklore, thetime to visit Marrakesh is in June/July.Every year at that time a National FolksArts Festival is held in the city. Organizedamid the ruins of El Badi Palace with its100 fountains, the festival encompassesthe African, Arab and Berber heritage ofMorocco.

Based on the traditions of Morocco's illus-trious past, the festival is a live homage tothis historic city. No one who attends thisfantastic celebration and, at the sametime, explores the town, will easily forgetthe splendour of Marrakesh that hasinspired writers and poets throughout thecenturies.

The Medina (the older part of town) withalmost 10 km (6mi) of ochre mud walls10 m (33 ft) high, encircling buildingsbuilt from this same mud and pinkishstone has through the ages been knownas the ‘Red City’. Within its ramparts,once entered by 12 gates of which 8remain, are countless historic remains andmore colour and excitement than in anyother city in the world.

Topping the historic structures inside theMedina is the Koutoubia, a ochre-stoneminaret 77 m (253 ft) high which over-shadows the city. Its attached 5,200 sq. m(55,568 sq ft) mosque contains 112

columns of brick covered with stucco. Theminbar is made from carved cedar woodinlaid with mosaic panels and wasbrought in the 12th century from Cordovato Marrakesh by the Almoravides whenthey occupied Muslim Spain. Visitors canonly view the mosque from the outside –non-Muslims are not allowed to enter.

Above all, what has made Marrakesh atrue tourist mecca is Jamaa el Fna, one ofthe most famous and liveliest entertain-ment spots in the world. The centralsquare of the old city, it can hold up to10,000 and gives Marrakesh its uniquecharacter. Once said to have been theplace where the sultan hung the heads ofhis enemies, whence its name ‘Assemblyof the Dead’, it is both a market andentertainment centre.

Every day from early morning to long afterdarkness, Jamaa el Fna is humming withactivity. Acrobats, dancers and musicians,fortune-tellers, jugglers, singers, snakecharmers and storytellers hold both nativeand tourist spellbound. Intermixed withthe entertainers are food stalls, all types ofvendors, and primitive dentists and herbdoctors plying their trade. Strolling backand forth between the crowds, gaudilydressed water sellers jingle their brasscups to indicate that they are selling watercarried in goatskins strapped to theirbacks.

From Jamaa el Fna, passages lead to thesouks in the old city. Every street andevery shop in this medieval part ofMarrakesh is filled with a riot of colour,noise and all types of activity. The exoticperfume and spice souks, diffusing heav-enly aromas and the colourful dyers andleather markets are worth exploring.

However, the skilled artisans plying theirtrades are what intrigue the visitors.Potters producing masterpieces from bitsof clay; woodworkers creating fine articleswith amazing speed; metal craftsmenturning out eye-catching engraved shiningplates; and leather workers with handswhich have inherited the skills of centuries,

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T h e r e i s n o

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B a l i - I nby Michael Morcos

p l a c e l i k e


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d o n e s i a

Known as “The Island of the Gods”, this paradise offersgreat beaches, perfect waves for surfing and wonderfulnatural locations to visit and explore. In addition to these

natural wonders, Bali is blessed with gifted artists and colorful cer-emonies that will take your breath away.

But Bali is much more than that, and there is something specialabout the island’s ambiance that is difficult to describe. It hasinspired visitors from all over the world and the Balinese them-selves have added to this mystique with their warm and welcom-ing character.

Bali is the most popular and most well-known travel location inIndonesia. It has a large new airport and many international air-lines arrive daily, making it a great starting point to explore therest of the country.

We were in the mood for a bit of luxury and decided to stay atone of the many fully serviced luxury villas in Bali. As usual,there were cooks, maids, and drivers who care for our everyneed and our hosts truly made sure that our stay was perfect.We were impressed at how surprisingly affordable it was.

There is an unbelievable range of restaurants, spas, activitiesand shopping to do and it is all nearby and available at very fairprices. In fact, the number of things to do in Bali will astonishvisitors and keep world travelers coming back, as Bali is thatrarer of places that are both deeply spiritual and filled with funthings to do.

Our trip started with the activities that anyone would associatewith Bali - Scuba Diving. Indonesia is world-famous for its div-ing, and Bali is the perfect place to start exploring in this fash-ion. Diving here comes in many styles, from ridges and drop-offs to relaxed bommies and shipwrecks, including the magnifi-cent Menjangan natural park and the famous wreck of the USSLiberty. Enjoy coral, tropical fish and even giant Manta rayswhile swimming in the crystal clear waters of this diver’s dream-land.

For Golfing enthusiasts, Bali is where Indonesia comes to play.There are several internationally designed and professionallymanaged golf courses, with State of the Art services which allowyou to come to the driving range at night. Carefully designedgreens, exciting courses with well-maintained putting surfaces,helpful caddies and stylish restaurants are there welcoming youto an unforgettable golf holiday.

For families and others interested in the natural world, Bali fea-tures world-class animal, parks. The Bali Zoo is filled with manylocal and exotic animals, and coupled with the Bali Bird Park &Reptile Park, any animal lover will be happy!

I was particularly impressed with the Ubud Monkey Forest, aunique nature reserve and temple complex whose full name isthe Padangtegal Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred MonkeyForest Sanctuary. The complex houses approximately 605 Crab-eating Macaque in four groups, each occupying different territo-ries in the park. The Sacred Monkey Forest is a popular touristattraction visited by over 10,000 tourists a month. The MonkeyForest contains the Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal temple aswell as a "Holy Spring" bathing temple and another temple usedfor cremation ceremonies. The Padangtegal Wenara Wana

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Foundation manages the Monkey Forest and maintains itssacred integrity to promote the sacred site as a destination forvisitors.

There are many more parks and locations where you can enjoyyourself, including the botanic gardens, hot spring baths etc,and all of them are well maintained and affordable.

All these are wonderful reasons to visit this exotic local, but ourtrip here was for a specific reason – to visit the Uluwatu templeand witness the Kecak dance.

Bali has hundreds of temples, and though Uluwatu is a smallone with not much significance, there was something specialabout it. Found on a magnificent cliff by the sea, we wereamazed with the view while walking around. The area offersacres of walking trails, but we were never tired since there wasso much to see. As a funny aside, we were warned to keep allhats and sunglasses in our bags as the monkeys in the templeroam freely and will snatch anything they can get their paws on!

Just before sunset, we walked through the monkey sanctuaryand up towards temple. The view out over the ocean was amaz-ing as the waves were more powerful than those of our resort.As we made our way to the auditorium, the sun was starting toset. After an afternoon of walking, with the red cliffs standing outagainst the blue sky, we witnessed the most astonishing sunsetI've ever seen. The temple on the cliff, the sunset, the ocean... Itwas definitely worth the effort of walking all day.

We sat down to enjoy the Kecak Fire Dance is performed in asemi-circular theater that holds almost 1000 people. When wepurchased our tickets for the show, we were given a leafletexplaining the dance and that the only music would be made bythe 70 person male choir. The performers chanted “ke-chak, ke-chak” rhythmically while they beat their chests, clapped theirhands, and stomped their feet. The women were exceptionallycolourful and exotic, dancing as counterpoint to the men.

The fire dance is a dramatic retelling of the story of Ramayana,featuring characters like Rama and Sita, the demon kingRhawana, the monkey king Hanoman, and evil giants, all wear-ing elaborate costumes and carrying out complicated choreog-raphy. The physical prowess and the dancer’s athleticism areremarkable.

We found that the artists were quite connected to the drama,and we could see how the repetitive Kecak chant could easilyinduce the trance like state for some of the men. The drama waswell performed with exquisite costuming and the background,the open air theatre, was enchanting. It felt like we were back inthe Stone Age! I felt more connected to the cultural life of theBalinese after this visit. It was quite hypnotic and I have neverseen a performance quite like it. But don’t leave too soon –you’ll miss the fire kicked around at the end.

The whole experience was quite magical. Spectacular mountainscenery and beaches with warm and friendly people there tohelp added to the vibrant culture and out of this world resortsappeal through its sheer natural beauty of looming volcanoesand lush terraced rice fields. The dramatic dances and colorfulceremonies, arts and crafts, just add to Bali’s exotic island mys-tique.


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In the Andes:

Papallacta Hot Springs

Tucked away in the Andes Mountains, hotwater naturally flows from the mountains andis channeled into pools of varying temperaturesat Termas Papallacta where guests can bask,day and night. At an altitude of around 10,500feet, the eco-lodge is located just an hour anda half east of Quito.

Termas Papallacta was recognized as the “BestSpa Resort in Ecuador” at the 2014 WorldTravel Awards due to its excellent service, spatreatments, facilities and an infrastructure aes-thetically appropriate to the environment. Itsunique spa treatments include individual hydromassage baths, body treatments with medicinalAndean mud, baths in the Thermal Cave,saunas, pressure massages, aromatherapy,face and body treatments and more.

www.termaspapallacta.com

In Galapagos: Finch Bay Eco Hotel

For the third consecutive year, the Finch Bay EcoHotel in the Galapagos was recognized as the“Best Ecological Hotel in South America,” at the2014 World Travel Awards. It’s no coincidence asFinch Bay is a pioneer in environmental manage-ment with its use of solar panels, biodegradabledetergents and soaps, and the classifying andrecycling of waste.

Located in the bay of Puerto Ayora on Santa CruzIsland, the hotel has actively worked to reforestthe surrounding mangrove. Finch Bay promotesthe use of refillable bottles, serves organic food,conducts daily beach cleanups, and the majorityof its staff ride to work by bicycle.

Guests can discover the enchanted islandsthrough its all-inclusive packages that vary fromthree to seven days and include excursions to themost important sites of the Galapagos NationalPark.

www.finchbayhotel.com

Stretching from the eastern flank of the Andes to the borders of Colombia and Peru, Ecuador’s Amazon is one of themost biologically diverse areas on earth. Complementing Ecuador’s natural surroundings are a variety of award-win-ning eco lodges and spas for travelers seeking an ideal blend between authenticity and sustainable comfort and luxury.

The following eco lodges are considered some of Ecuador’s best ecological destinations and have recently earned prestigiousawards at the World Travel Awards 2014.

E C U A D O R ’ S

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In the Andes: Cloud Forest

Arashá Tropical Forest Resort &

Spa

The Arashá Tropical Forest Resort & Spa was rec-ognized as the best resort in both South Americaand Ecuador at the 2014 World Travel Awards.Named after an exotic fruit, the eco lodge islocated two hours west of Quito, amid the biggest"hot spot" in the world, with more than 35,000plant species being 50 percent endemic to theregion. It also possesses 644 different species ofamphibians and 500 species of birds.

With its ecologically sensitive bungalows, Arasháoffers guests the possibility of being immersed inthe richness and tranquility of this most fragileregion combined with both luxury and comfort inthe middle of the rainforest. Guests can also enjoyits peculiar spa with scrubs made of fruits and“baños de cajon” (steam box bath).

www.arasharesortspa.com

In the Andes: Cloud Forest

Mashpi Lodge

Awarded as the “Best Ecological Hotel in Ecuador” at the 2014 WorldTravel Awards, the Mashpi Lodge was specially designed for the area inwhich it is located with sustainable construction techniques mimicking theenvironment. Lost high up in the Andes, a few hours west of Quito, theMashpi Lodge is located in a 1,300 hectare reserve, where the biodiversi-ty of the rain-forest is protected and the wildlife thrives.

With glass walls and contemporary, sustainable design, the Mashpi Lodgeoffers incredible views over the surrounding landscape. Venture into theforest to come into close contact with the wildlife, with countless species ofbirds, as well as monkeys, peccaries and pumas. After a day of exploringthe surroundings with your guide, the Mashpi Lodge offers comfortingamenities that range from a dip in the Jacuzzi to a relaxing read in theirlibrary.

Its environmental management is emphasized by the low impact on theregion during construction and the electric energy savings with the use oflow power devices. Their goal is to have biologically treated wastewater,treat residual waters, recycle its waste and have 80 percent of its person-nel come from the area.

www.mashpilodge.com

With so much to offer, it’s no wonder that Ecuador was also awarded South America'sLeading Green Destination at the World Travel Awards this year. For more information aboutEcuador, visit www.ecuador.travel.com

A W A R D - W I N N I N G E C O L O D G E S

Office National du Tourisme Tunisien1155, Rue University, Suite 1014 Montreal , QC H3B 3A7Tél. : (514) 397-1182Email : [email protected] Web : www.tourismtunisia.com

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D o o r C o u n t y , W i

S u n , s e a a n d s a n d - M i d

by Anne-Marie Macloughlin

s c o n s i n

If anyone had said that some of the prettiest seaside vis-tas, sand dunes and lighthouses – never mind watersports and sailing - were to be found in the cheese capi-

tal of America, I would have taken that with a grain of sand. Suchwas my surprise when happening on Door County, WI – a sliver ofnatural beauty that juts into Lake Michigan with a tremendousamount of indoor and outdoor options, year round. And cheese, ofcourse.

Geography, Location and Climate

With Door County just over an hour away from Green Bay (homeof the Packers, as I was reminded of more than once), this peace-ful slice of Wisconsin is easily accessible to visitors arriving byplane or car, and is approximately 7 hours drive from theWindsor-Detroit border. Door County sits at the top of LakeMichigan with Green Bay on its western side. With 300 miles ofshoreline, 53 beaches, 19 county and 5 state parks, there aremany opportunities for camping, sailing, kayaking, or just soakingup the sun in the peak season. On average, July and Augusthover around daytime highs of around 75 F, and winters are typi-cally mild, with temperatures rarely dipping below freezing mak-ing winter sports a big draw.

Door County has many pretty resorts scattered around the shore-line. I was staying in quietly picturesque Bailey’s Harbour on theedge of the Ridges Nature Sanctuary, a woody wilderness thatenhanced the area’s reputation as a quiet refuge. With erratic cellphone and WiFi service, it was a little disconcerting to be ‘off thegrid’, but the great outdoors soon made up for it.

Biking, Hiking and Beaches

Peninsula State park is a cyclist’s paradise, equipment rentalscourtesy of the Lent family and Edge of Park Rentals (edgeof-park.com). With a stunning amount of options available, includ-ing 24-speed road bikes, jogger strollers, special needs equip-ment and even pet carts, everyone can enjoy riding the SunsetTrail. An easy route, the fine gravel on the path is user-friendly, theleafy green silence a panacea for the stressed-out soul.

After an energetic two-hour ride, we were ready for a hearty lunchin Fish Creek. The Wild Tomato ([email protected]) is acozy establishment famous for the eponymous dish, made right infront of you in a traditional wood-fired oven. There are severaloptions for vegetarians and the lactose and gluten intolerant. TheCherry Walnut salad with local goat cheese and famous Wisconsincherries was almost too good to be true. The Tomato also has a‘Donation Creation’ on their menu, a specialty pizza with pro-ceeds going to local non-profit organizations.

Satisfied but not too stuffed, next port of call was hike ‘Old Baldy’– Wisconsin’s highest sand dune. Located in Whitefish Dunes StatePark, the view from the top is worth the hike. Our highly knowl-edgeable guide introduced us to one of nature’s edible treats, theraspberry-like thimbleberry, and gave tips on how to identify andavoid the dreaded poison ivy. The park was home to eight NativeAmerican Villages from 100BC to the late 1800s, illustrated byvery authentic reconstruction of teepees and artefacts.

As a bracing cooling-off option on this typically sunny, humid day,our hosts directed us to Cave Point County Park to see the lime-stone sea caves, formed as a result of Lake Michigan’s relentlesspounding. A favourite spot for bathers, we declined the optionand headed off to another of Door County’s dining experiences,

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w e s t - s t y l e

As much as the area is a haven for out-door activities and the wonders of nature,Door County plays host to America’s old-est professional resident summer theatre.The Peninsula Players Theatre (peninsu-laplayers.com) has been exciting audi-ences since 1935, and is currently locatedalong the shore of Green Bay in an idyllicwoodsy setting. Prior to the show, patronscan picnic and relax on the grounds whilewatching the dazzling Wisconsin sunsetfrom the shore, or enjoy a cold beer dur-ing intermission. With fairy lights strungthrough the trees and the last of the sun’srays on the lake, you would be hard put tofind another theatre company with such aphotogenic backdrop.

If the surroundings were not impressiveenough, you’ll be blown away with theonstage talent. We were treated to theMidwest premiere of Richard Strand’s civilwar drama “Butler”, starring ArtisticDirector Greg Vinkler as the titular charac-ter in a gripping dramatic performance. Iwas relieved that after intermission, how-ever, the sliding doors on either side of thehouse were lowered to keep out hungrybugs.

From energetic cycling tours, hiking trails,local delicacies and world-class theatre,Door County WI is the ideal destinationfor families, couples, and even the solotraveller, the Midwestern charm andfriendliness of the locals a joy to experi-ence. Some may find the lifestyle a tadslow when compared to the larger resortsor warmer climes. That said, after my ini-tial horror at losing cell phone service andunease at my hotel’s ‘isolated’ location, itwas oddly soothing not to be at the mercyof technology and the outside world. As Ireturned that evening, I paused for amoment to savour my surroundings. Nostreet lamps to dazzle, traffic to deafen, orcrowded streets to navigate. At 11pm on aWednesday night, all I heard was the gen-tle buzzing of crickets. Sometimes, silenceis golden.

www.doorcounty.com

Fred and Fuzzy’s Waterfront Bar and Grill(fredandfuzzys.com). Patrons have theoption of indoor or outdoor dining, thelatter a delightful experience on a warmWisconsin evening. This bay is known as apremier sunset and storm watching spot,the weather obliging and sending in darkclouds, gusty winds and a mini deluge, aswe ran for cover and a Door CountyCherry Juice Margarita.

Into the Wilderness

The next day, the hardcore cyclists (andme) decided to conquer the challengingtrails of Newport State Park, Wisconsin’sonly formally designated wilderness park.2,373 acres and 11 miles of LakeMichigan shoreline. Sweaty and invigorat-ed, we took a time out at Wilson’sRestaurant and Ice Cream Parlour inEphraim, slaking our thirst with home-brewed draft root beer and sweet tempta-tions.

Still on a sugar high from Wilson’s, wetook a leisurely cruise around the shore-line by water taxi, on the lookout for someof Door County’s famous lighthouses.Eleven in total, these photogenic beaconsare widely accessible during the annualDoor County Lighthouse Festival (formore information, contact the DoorCounty Maritime Museum at dcmm.org)

A quick trip back to the hotel, then ontoRowleys Bay Restaurant to taste yet moreof the local gastronomic offerings. A vin-tage-style resort, Rowleys Bay keeps tradi-tion alive by offering an authentic fish boildinner. As part of the experience, a story-teller enthusiastically brings the past to lifeon the lawn outside the restaurant, whilethe fish boiler and his crew fill a huge ironcauldron with whitefish, onion and pota-toes, cooked over a flaming pit. A uniquedining experience, especially when thecook literally throws fuel on the fire. Haveyour cameras ready, and if you value youreyebrows, stand well back!

The Roar of the Greasepaint, the Smell ofthe Crowd

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Documents

American World traveler 45 fall 2014 issue