Animal Outreach of Cape May County, Inc.

Foster Care Manual

for Cats and Dogs

Animal Outreach of Cape May County, Inc.

P.O. Box 1225

Cape May, NJ 08204

609-898-1738

Table of Contents

How the Program Works

Forms

Questions to ask Potential Adopters

Guidelines for Seeking Veterinary Care

List of Local Veterinarians

Guidelines for Fostering Cats and Kittens

Feline Upper Respiratory Infection

Taming Feral Kittens

Guidelines for Fostering Dogs and Puppies

Introducing a New Dog

Crate Training

Poisonous Household Items

Welcome to the Animal Outreach Foster Care Program

Thank you for opening your home to a shelter companion animal. Our fos-ter care program is designed to enable us to expand the numbers of animals that we can save and place in forever homes. Animal Outreach is not cur-rently able to house dogs, so the foster network is essential for the pooches. Your participation is key and we are very grateful to have you on board!

Who needs foster care?

1. Puppies and Kittens too young to be adopted

2. An abused animal that needs a quiet spot and TLC

3. An injured pet4. A dog or cat with a cough or cold

5. Any animal at all when the shelters get full

What if the animals need vet care?Animal Outreach volunteers raise money to cover any veterinary bills and medicines. Foster families are expected to provide time, love and food.

How do pets in foster care get adopted?Animal Outreach posts all pets that are available for adoption on Petfinder.com. The public can view the animals on the web, just as they do our in-house cats. Foster parents may also opt to showcase the animal at events in which Animal Outreach regularly participates, such as the Straw-berry Festival, the Lima Bean Festival, Adoptathon, etc. Foster Parents will be kept up-to-date on our activities. Foster parents always have the oppor-tunity to meet and screen the adopters with our adoption coordinator, Bitzy Jones. Bitzy will take care of the vet reference check and the foster parent can join in the process from there. After a family has been chosen, we will make the spay/neuter appointment (in the event that the animal is not al-ready fixed), collect the fee and process the application. Animal Outreach never adopts out an animal that has not been neutered, so fosters should be aware that they will in many cases see the animal through the surgery and recovery, which is very easy in nearly all cases.

Can Foster Parents Adopt their Foster Companion Animals?You betcha! All of us have fosters that have just fit in so well that they never left. Sometimes the best home is the one that the pet already has. The adoption paperwork gets done so that our records are complete, and you get yourself a wonderful addition to the family!

How long do Animals stay in Foster Homes?It completely depends on the animal and the situation. It can range from a couple of days to several months. We can never predict the length of stay, so a foster family has to be prepared to care for the animal as long as they can. In the event that a foster is not working out well, Animal Outreach will intervene and take the animal to another situation.

Are foster pets contagious? Can my pet catch something?It is always a health risk to expose your animal to other animals--at the dog park, vet’s waiting room, or any other place. But if the foster family’s pets are current on their vaccinations, maintain a healthy diet and life-style, and are not elderly or very young (and therefore their immune systems are not compromised), then the health risk is minimal. Proper hygiene and preventative measures are essential to minimiz-ing the chances of contagion. Animal Outreach makes certain that any foster pet is fully vacci-nated and examined by a veteri-narian. Any foster family should consult with their veterinarian be-fore taking a new pet home.

Are foster pets ever euthanized?Animal Outreach is a no-kill organization. That means that no animal is ever euthanized unless it is determined to be suffering or dangerous. Some animals are in foster care because they are seriously ill or injured. If, after medical attention and TLC have been exhausted, the animals is seen to be suffering, he or she shall be humanely euthanized by a veterinarian. Fortu-nately, most animals in foster care heal beautifully.

Getting Started: Foster Care Applica-tionsAll foster families fill out a foster care application which asks questions that help our foster care coordinator match applicants up with the appropriate pet for their lifestyles. Our foster care coordinator will then contact foster families to describe the animal in need, and then a time is set for the family to meet the animal. Pets already in residence at the foster home are con-sidered and included at the meeting whenever possible.

Time Commitment and Responsibili-tiesTime commitment and responsibilities depend on the situation and the animal. Animals going into foster care have often been stressed, and the move from the shelter to the foster home can also be very stressful and emotional for the pet. These animals will depend on the foster family for support and guidance through the adjustment period. Foster families must be patient and commit to providing a stable, consistent envi-ronment so that when it comes time for them to meet their adopters they will shine!

This spot will do nicely, thanks!

Where should your foster pet stay while at your home?

Cats and Kittens

Indoors only. Box, crate, separate room, bathroom, laundry room, or large closet, or temperate, dry garage

Dogs

Indoors--crate, warm and dry garage. When outdoors, dogs should be leashed at all times, unless you go to a securely fenced off-leash area. Please note tht you should not take a contagious dog to an off-leash area. Also, you are responsible for the safety and well-being of your foster dog. Do not let your foster dog off leash unless you are sure that he/she will come when called and will not fight with other dogs. We are often unsure of the pasts of homeless animals, and need to keep them out of situations that could be problematic.

Puppies

Indoors--kitchen (baby gates are invaluable!) bathroom, laun-dry room, dry, temperate garage. Puppies should be around humans as much as possible to maximize their social skills. Puppies should be outdoors only with close supervision and should never socialize with other dogs because they are not fully

vaccinated.

When all else fails, there’s always the couch!

Preparing your home for your foster cat

Cats/Kittens

When fostering cats or kittens with an upper respiratory infec-tion (URI), the shelter recommends separating them from resi-dent cats until they no longer have symptoms. Foster cats or kit-tens can be kept in a separate room like a laundry room or bath-room or walk-in closet. Introducing a cat into a new home is ex-tremely stressful for most cats--a cat’s typical reaction is to run and hide. You can help ease the cat’s stress by setting up a safe haven for the cat before he/she arrives.

What you will need:

Litterbox: Cats will use a litterbox instinctively. A deep litterbox is best for cats that really like to dig. An uncovered box is more readily used by all cats.

Litter: Don’t use clumping litter for cats under six months, as it can cause serious health risks for kittens if eaten, and kittens can be very silly! A kitten could even die if the clumping litter forms a blockage in the intestines. It can also cause blockages in the respiratory systems of very young kittens that breathe in the fine grains of litter. Inexpensive clay litter provides a gratifying dig-ging sensation and is readily accepted by most cats and kittens. There are alternative natural products on the market that work

well for some cats and kittens, such as recycled newspaper and pine pellets.

Cardboard Box or Crate: You can check a crate out at the shelter, which will provide a familiar smelling, dark, quiet retreat for your adapting foster cat.

Food: the food you feed your foster cat is important. We feed Nutro Max Cat at the shelter, but also recommend : Eukanuba and Hill’s Science Diet

We sometimes recommend feeding human baby food to very young kittens to jump start their appetites.

We recommend that you feed kittens a mix of dry and wet food that is especially formulated for kittens. They can gradually be weaned onto dry food alone.

Don’t feed cow’s milk to your kitten(s), as it can be difficult to di-gest and can cause diarrhea.

Water: food and water sould be placed far away from the litter-box

Toys: Mice, ping-pong balls, empty toilet paper tubes, and paper bags can all make good toys. Catnip is great for adult cats, but not kittens. Disinfect all toys before giving them to another fos-ter cat or kitten. Kittens should not play with string unsuper-vised, as it can cause an intestinal blockage, which can be fatal.

Scratching post: sisal or corrugated cardboard are both great.

Bed: Can be as simple as a cardboard box lined with a towel to make it cozy.

Two food bowls: One for eat-at-will dry food and one for for canned food. It is best to avoid plastic bowls and use metal or ceramic, as some pets have allergies to plastic.

Water bowl: hydration is very important to sick cats. Also, cats can be very particular about the freshness of their water, so change it often. Very young kittens can drown in deep water bowls, so it is best to use very shallow ones with kittens.

Introducing a Cat into a New homeOpen up the cat carrier and let the cat decide whether he/she wants to explore or to remain inside the carrier. Many cats will remain inside the carrier for hours.

Give the cat(s) time to adjust to their new territory. Come back to the room to visit often, but let the cat set the pace of the visits. Don’t force your attention on the cats--cats will ask for attention when they are ready. When the cat is more comfortable in the room, open the door and let then explore the rest of the house at his own pace. Cats usually begin investigating at night, alternat-ing between short explorations and rapid retreats to the safe ha-ven. It is rare for a cat to explore new territory without hesita-tion.

Cats who are per-mitted to adapt to their new envi-ronments adjust best. The length of time it will take will vary from cat to cat, depending on previous expe-riences and whether there are other pets in the new home.

Multi-Cat Household

Before introducing your new foster cat or kitten to your resident cats and dogs, consult with foster care coordinator. Most Animal Outreach cats are used to living in harmony with other kitties in a cageless environment, but not all will be at ease right away. If you have any concerns about contagion that are not covered adequately in this handbook, please call your foster care coordi-nator for advice.

When new cats are being in-troduced to resident cats, a safe haven for the new-comer is especially impor-tant. Provide the new cat with his won room in which to adjust and grow accus-tomed to the smells of the resident. Each cat can get used to the other’s scent be-fore they meet face-to-face.

The best way for that meeting to take place is through a crack in the door. Just open the door a few inches and allow the cats to see one another. You will be able to gauge from there how slowly or quickly you can introduce the cats. If there is hissing or growling, it will take more time than if there is mere curiosity from both parties. Repeat the process until you feel that the cats are ready to be together without the door in between them. Never scold a cat for aggression toward another cat--it merely raises the cat’s stress level and prolongs the adjustment period.

Introducing a Cat to a Resident Dog

It is best to enter into this situation with a dog that knows basic obedience and has been around cats before. Kittens are some-times more adaptable to dogs, so evaluate all the critters before bringing in your foster. Please note that kittens should never be left unsupervised with dogs until they are at least four months old.

Again, the newcomer kitty needs a safe haven. This is the most important factor in acclimating a cat into a new situation. The newcomer will start to adjust to the dog’s smells before they ac-tually meet. Once the cat is calm, you can let him explore the house when the dog is not at home. Once the cat appears to be comfortable in the house, let the dog and cat meet. It works best when the cat is up on a high surface. It is important that the the dog be on a leash.

It is a natural instinct for a dog to chase a cat, and you should as-sume that the dog will do so and be prepared to to intervene. Keep the dog on a leash until these meetings proceed to a point where the cat is not fleeing and the dog seems disinclined to chase. it is important that you remain calm and encouraging during these meetings. The animals will be more at ease if you are relaxed. Correct the dog with a leash tug if he behaves with aggression. However, if the cat bops the dog on the nose, don’t show any reaction. It is good for the cat to set a boundary that way and it will help the pair establish a mutual respect that will lead to a harmonious home.

Feline Upper Respiratory Infection (URI)It is a fact of life that homeless pets often suffer the effects of their poor di-ets and stressful environments--be we are here to change all that! Cats of-ten come to shelters with URI, which is very similar to the common cold (but we cannot catch it from cats) in humans. It is not a life-threatening condition, but it does make the sufferer feel downright lousy!

In general, URI symptoms consist of just sneezing with some discharge from the eyes and nose. Occasionally, the cat’s condition may progress to heavy discharge, fever and lack of appetite. In rare circumstances, the cat may also develop ulcerations of the mouth, nose and eyes. The symptoms of URI may last a few day to several weeks. As in humans, stress is a major factor in the body’s ability to fight infection.

Treatment

In addition to sneezing, runny nose and eyes, the cat may become a bit le-thargic and have a decreased appetite. Complete lack of appetite and fever can lead to dehydration, which requires veterinary attention. As with colds in humans, the infection is usually mild and often no treatment is neces-sary. Keep the nose and eyes clear of discharge by wiping with warm wet cloth. Humid air from a vaporizer or hot shower helps clear congested pas-sages. Keeping your foster cat eating and drinking water is important. Coax him or her to eat with highly palatable foods, Hill’s brand AD cat food, hu-man baby food (turkey or chicken) or chicken broth. Spend some time each day gently petting your foster cat to make him or her more comfortable. Watch for signs of dehydration. If your foster cat appears dehydrated, or if the discharge is very thick and yellow-green in color, then antibiotics may be needed to treat a secondary bacterial infection. Eye medication and nose drops may also be prescribed to control the local infection to these areas.

Contagion to other cats

The risk of a healthy, vaccinated cat contracting URI is minimal if the healthy cat has been separated from the infected cat for 7-10 days. contact your vet to be sure that your cat’s vaccinations are up to date before foster-ing a cat with URI.

Taming Feral Kittens

Foster Care Guidelines for Dogs

When your foster dog or puppy first arrives at your home., he/she will need to be kept in a room by himself, especially when you leave the house. So find a room where you can confine your foster dog. Ideally, it will be a room where you spend a lot of your day since dogs are pack animals and will want to be with you. A kitchen or family room is perfect. Use a baby gate to block off entrances to the room. Keeping the dog in room will help to pre-vent accidents--you can

much better monitor the dog’s habits in one room. Animal Outreach also recommends crate training. Because dogs are den animals, they feel secure and calm in a crate. (See section on crate training.)

Dog Proofing

1. Make sure there is room for the crate.

2. It’s best to have easy, quick access to outside for bathroom emergencies.

3. Remove items that the dog might be tempted to chew-drapes, couches, rugs, etc.

4. Make certain that there are no electrical wires that can be chewed.

5. Try to eliminate any places that the dog might be able to hide from you and make sure that you can get access to retrieve him.

6. Remove any items from low furniture (coffee tables, etc.) that might get knocked off by a wagging tail.

7. Make sure that there are no plants in the room that are toxic to dogs--list at the back of this manual.

Once you have removed hazards from the room, set up the crate. It’s best to choose a quiet spot that is removed from traffic flow. Put a blanket in the crate--this is where your foster dog will sleep. (You may want to move the crate at night to your bedroom, so that the dog will feel more secure and be less likely to cry.)

What you’ll Need

• food bowl

• water bowl

• food

• crate (Animal Outreach may be able to lend one)

• washable bedding--blanket or towel(s)

• odor neutralizer (we recommend Clean Flow or Nature’s Miracle)

• flea comb/brush

• toys (rubber balls, kong toys, rope toys, nylabones. We do not recommend rawhide, pig ears or hooves, as they can cause diarrhea, and in some cases, choking.)

• flat buckle collar with ID tags --stays on dog at all times

• Leash

• training collar--sometimes called choker

• treats

• baby gate

Food

Because many homeless dogs have weakened immune systems, we recom-mend high quality foods, including:

Nutro

Eukanuba

Hill’s Science Diet

According to Whole Dog Journal, what you should look for on a food label:

The label should be very specific: chicken is better than poultry, chicken meal is better than chicken by-products, which is better than chicken digest, which is better than animal digest, which is the worst!

• good sources of protein (whole meats or single source meat meal, like chicken meal rather than poultry meal

• a whole meat source as one of the first two ingredients

• whole, unprocessed grains, vegetables and other foods (unprocessed food has a much greater likelihood of having its nutrients and enzymes intact)

Foods should not contain:

• meat by-products

• fats or proteins named generically (like animal fat, poultry fat, meat meal, etc.)

• food fragments (brewer’s rice, corn, gluten, etc.)

• artificial colors

• sweeteners

• propylene glycol

Food Supplements

If your foster dog is needing extra nutrition (very thin, ill, or poor coat), we recommend giving him a supplement. Call your foster care coordinator for a brand recommendation.

Feeding

Dogs are creatures of habit and routine makes them feel comfortable. Feeding your dog at the same time every day is the best way to regulate his blood sugar and elimination. If you have other dogs at home, feed your fos-ter ina separate room and close the door--this will help prevent any argu-ments over food. It’s best not to feed people food to your foster dog. It’s a practice that can encourage begging, a habit that may not be welcome later in an adoptive home.

Amount of Food

The quantity of food that you feed will depend on the size, age and condi-tion of your dog.

Adult dogs: dry adult dog food once or twice a day

Nursing Mothers: dry puppy food three to four times a day. A supplemen-tal vitamin may be indicated--check with our foster care coordinator for recommendations

Adolescent dogs: (4 mos. to 1 year) dry puppy food twice a day

Weaned puppies: (6-8 weeks to 4 months) dry puppy food 3-4 times a day Moisten the food with water or puppy formula.

Unweaned puppies: (4-8 weeks) canned food at 4 weeks, introduce dry puppy food at 5 weeks and gradually change toward mostly dry food week by week. At 8 weeks, the puppies should eat straight dry kibble. Puppies of this age need to be fed four times a day.

Diet Change

Some animals react to a change in diet with diarrhea. If this happens, feed your foster dog cooked rice mixed with cottage cheese for a day or two. Then reintroduce the dry kibble. Provide plenty of fresh water.

Introducing the Foster Dog to Resident Dogs

It is best to introduce your newcomer to your old friend in a neutral setting.

It’s best to take along a human friend who can walk the foster on a leash while you walk your dog on a leash. Let the dogs sniff one another while they are both leashed, so that if they need to be pulled apart you will have control. Talk normally and calmly to the dogs to put them at ease. Walk together for a bit, until it appears that the dogs have become friendly. Once it appears that they have accepted each other, you can return to your home with both dogs, making sure to pay lots of extra attention to your resident dog so that he doesn’t feel insecure about the newcomer.

It’s best to take things very slowly with your foster dog. Many homeless dogs have had a lot of recent changes already. The dog needs to settle into a routine and establish a level of comfort now. Consistency is key. Give your foster a chance to to adjust and build his confidence. Make your home a sanctuary for him to begin to heal and prepare for his forever family!

Introducing the Foster Dog to a Resident Cat

It’s best to wait until the dog has been with you for a couple of days before make the introductions to the family feline(s). Let the dog settle in and get accustomed to his surroundings. Take your time and minimize stress for everybody. The dog may explore the house a couple of times while the cat in a safe place. Eventually, the time will come for the two to meet. Keep the dog on a leash for the first meeting--that way you’ll have control if the dogs wants to give chase. It is normal for a dog to chase, so don’t be sur-prised if it happens. Make sure that the cat has a high perch to escape to. The cat will feel less stressed if he can go high, even if the dog in under con-trol because of the leash. While chasing is a natural urge, a dog that shows overt aggression, such as snarling, growling, baring teeth, etc. will likely

never accept a cat and should be kept sepa-rated from cats at all times.

Behavior

Allow time for your foster dog to adjust to his new surroundings. It usually takes about 24 hours for a dog to settle in, but a stressed dog can take longer. It is your mission to teach your foster dog that people can be trusted, and to prepare the dog for a permanent home. You should handle and work with him every day so that he becomes comfortable and well-adjusted.

Children

As a general rule, no children under 12 should be left unsupervised with a dog. Children should be taught to leave the dog alone when he is eating, sleeping or chewing.

Crate Training

Crates provide safe havens and dens for dogs. A crate calms the dog and can help prevent destructive behavior--chewing, barking, house training mistakes. As a rule, puppies should not be crated for more hours than they are months old, plus one. (Thus, a three month old puppy shouldn’t be crated for more than four hours.) Adults can be crated for longer periods, but it can be stressful for the dog, both physically and mentally. Rigorous exercise should be given before and after crating--a good dog is a tired dog!

Crates are not to be used as punishment--the crate should instead be a play and sleep space for your dog. Stock the crate with chew toys and a cozy blanket. Dogs are unlikely to soil their dens, so the cozier the crate the less likely the foster dog will mess in his crate. The crate should never be kept in direct sun.

Date: ___________________

Foster Care Application

Name:___________________________________________ Date of Birth:____________________________

Address:_________________________________________________________________________________

Daytime Phone:___________________________Evening Phone:____________________________________

E-mail address: ___________________________________

*****************************************************************************************

I am willing to foster the following: (please circle)

Cat with kittens Dog with Puppies

Kittens Puppies

Sick Cat/Kitten Sick Dog/Puppy

Adult Cat Adult Dog

*****************************************************************************************

Do you or have you ever owned a pet? Yes No

What type and how many animals do you currently have in your home? _______________________________

Are the animals currently in your home spayed or neutered? Yes No

Who is your local vet?___________________________________ May we call for a reference? Yes No

Do you own or rent your home? Own Rent

If you rent, who is your landlord? ______________________________________________________________

Landlord’s phone number?____________________________________________________________________

Please describe the general area where the animal(s) you are fostering will be kept:_______________________

Do you have children and what are their ages? ____________________________________________________

Have you ever fostered animals before (this applies to any organization)? Yes No

May Animal Outreach volunteers or representatives visit the animal in your home? Yes No

Frequently, we try to have animals adopted directly from a foster home:

Can a prospective adopter call you regarding your foster animal? Yes No

Can they visit your home to see the animal? Yes No

References:

1. Name/Phone Number:_____________________________________________________________________

2. Name/Phone Number:_____________________________________________________________________

3. Name/Phone Number:_____________________________________________________________________

As a foster parent, you will be required to keep your foster dog(s) on a leash or enclosed (within a fence adequate for the animal or in a home) at all times. Foster cats must be kept indoors at all times. By initialing below, you acknowledge that you will abide by these provisions. Initial: __________

As a foster parent, you may have an animal in your care for a short period of time (1 week) or an extended period of time (as many as 3 months or more). This will frequently be determined when you receive an animal to be fostered. However, this amount of time is subject to change depending on circumstances at the shelter. If you know that you will be on vacation during the period of time you are being asked to foster, you are obliged to inform Animal Outreach of such. This will allow us to find the most suitable temporary accommodations for your animal.

All new foster parents must read and acknowledge written materials and follow up with an in-person interview/orientation. You will be sent the reading materials and appointment will be set up for the interview. While the animal is staying with you, we will call to make periodic check-ups on the animals’ progress and to discuss any concerns and/or needs you may have.

As a foster parent, we want you to know that by fostering an animal, you are personally helping to save animals from being euthanized. If not for our foster homes, animals would be sent di-rectly to facilities that may possibly have to put animals down because there is no room for them. Usually, this is an option of last resort, but it does happen on a regular basis in some facilities.

By signing this form, you agree to the above statements and certify that the answers given above are true:

_____________________________________ ______________________________________ (Signature) (Print Name)

I HAVE BEEN IN A FOSTER HOME...AND HERE’S WHAT MY FOSTER FAMILY SAYS ABOUT WONDERFUL ME!

Animal’s Name_________________

Foster Family name and contact info (optional)_____________________________________

Type of food used__________________________Feeding Schedule_________________________

Amount of food___________________________

Housetrained/Litterbox trained_________________

Neutered/Spayed (date of surgery) _____________

Known Medical history (vaccinations, etc.)

___________________________________________

Exercise regimen (Dogs) ______________________

Known commands (Dogs)______________________

Personality traits _____________________________

Behavior with small children and other animals ____________________________________________

Favorite toys ________________________________

General Guidelines for Seeking Veterinary Care

Cats or dogs Younger than 9 months should see a

vet for:

-Diarrhea that lasts for more than a day

-Vomiting and diarrhea for more than 6 hours

-Vomiting more than once in an hour

-Not eating for more than 12-24 hours

-Lethargy without fever for more than 12 hours

-Lethargy with fever

Dogs older than 9 months must see a vet for:

Diarrhea that lasts for more than 1 or 2 days

Diarrhea and occasional vomiting for more than one day

Vomiting more than 2-3 times in an hour

Not eating for more than 24 hours

Lethargy without fever for more than a day

Lethargy with fever

Cats older than 9 months must see a vet for:

Not drinking for more than 24 hours

Diarrhea that lasts for more than 1 or 2 days

Diarrhea and occasional vomiting that lasts for more than a day

Vomiting more than 2-3 times in an hour

Not eating for more than 2-3 days

Lethargy without fever for more than 2-3 days

Lethargy with fever

Local Veterinarians

Cape Veterinary HospitalSwainton-Goshen RdCMCH 465-9326

Parkway 1173 Rt 9 S

CMCH 465-5590

Southpaw 312 S Main

CMCH 465-9006

Shore VeterinariansSeaville

390-9113

Baysea1127 Rt 9 SLe Ric PlazeRio Grande886-2292

South Jersey Veterinary Emergency Services535 Maple Ave.

Linwood926-5300

Abri Animal Hospital38 St Highway 47S

Dias Creek 465-1368

Lupine Species

MARIJUANA OR HEMP

MILKWEED

MISTLETOE BER-RIES

MORNING GLORY

Mountain Laurel

Narcissus

OLEANDER

ONION

PEACH

PENCIL CACTUS

Philodendron

Poinsettia

Potato

Rhododendron

Rhubarb Leaves

Rosary Pea

Schefflera

Shamrock

Spurge

Tomatoes

YEW

Alco-hol

ALMONDS

Amaryllis Bulb

Anthurium

APRICOT

ASPIRIN

AUTUMN CROCUS

Avocado

Azalea

BEGONIA

Bird of Paradise

Bittersweet

BLEEDING HEART

Boxwood

Bracken fern

Buckeye

Buttercup

Caffeine

Caladium

CALLA LILY

Castor Bean

Cherry

CHINESE SACRED OR HEAVENLY BAMBOO

CHOCOLATE

CHOKE CHERRY

Chrysanthemum

Clematis

Crocus Bulb

Croton

Daffodil

Delphinium, Lark-spur

Dumb Cane

Elderberry

English Ivy

Fig

Four O’Clocks

FOXGLOVE

GARLIC

Hyacinth Bulbs

HYDRANGEA

Holly Berries

Iris Corms

JACK IN THE PULPIT

JIMSON WEED

Kalanchoe

LANTANA

Lily

LILY OF THE VAL-LEY

HOUSEHOLD ITEMS THAT ARE POISONOUS TO ANIMALS

*ITEMS IN CAPITAL LET-TERS CAN BE FATAL

It is also important to note that it is best to remove the following items from your home before fostering:

Antifreeze

Windshield wiper fluid

Rat/Mouse poison

Each of these items can cause grave danger to animals.

Acknowledgements

This manual was designed and written with a great deal of inspiration, modeling after, and outright borrowing from

materials published by the following organizations:

Seattle Animal Shelter

Best Friends

San Francisco SPCA

Tomkins County SPCA

Alley Cat Allies

The information made available by these organizations has made it possible for small groups like Animal Outreach to come about and flourish. This helps animals all over the world, and we are very grateful for the generosity of the people who generate the material from which we borrow so liberally in order to helps the cats and dogs of Cape May county.

Animal Outreach M!sion StatementThe mission of Animal Outreach is to provide shelter, care, and love for the un wanted, abused, and/or abandoned animals in Cape May County. We include in our mission rescuing animals from surrounding county and state shelters that are slated for euthanasia. Animal Outreach strongly endorses spay and neutering programs and is com-mited to helping to educate our community about responsible pet ownership. We are a no kill organization and shelter. Our adoption program has helped to greatly reduce the number of homeless in our county. We encourage cooperation between municipal and private shelters to coordinate efforts to eliminate the tragedy of animal homelessness.

Date: ___________________

Foster Care Application

Name:___________________________________________ Date of Birth:____________________________

Address:_________________________________________________________________________________

Daytime Phone:___________________________Evening Phone:____________________________________

E-mail address: ___________________________________

*****************************************************************************************I am willing to foster the following: (please circle)

Cat with kittens Dog with Puppies

Kittens Puppies

Sick Cat/Kitten Sick Dog/Puppy

Adult Cat Adult Dog

*****************************************************************************************

Do you or have you ever owned a pet? Yes No

What type and how many animals do you currently have in your home? _______________________________

Are the animals currently in your home spayed or neutered? Yes No

Who is your local vet?___________________________________ May we call for a reference? Yes No

Do you own or rent your home? Own Rent

If you rent, who is your landlord? ______________________________________________________________

Landlord’s phone number?____________________________________________________________________

Please describe the general area where the animal(s) you are fostering will be kept:_______________________

A UTREACHNIMAL

of Cape May County, Inc.P.O. Box 1225,Cape May, NJ 08204

(609) 898-1738