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Instructor: Christina Denekas Office 1043D LeBaron Hall Office Phone: 515.294.7821 Email: [email protected] Office Hours: by appointment Prerequisites: AMD 301 - Enforced Meeting Times: MWF 8:00pm to 9:50am Location: LeBaron 2063 & 2061 Course Description: Apparel design through basic draping techniques on industry standard dress forms. Analysis of fit and design, problem solving and interaction of fabric characteristics with style features. Overview Statement: AMD 325 is a course which emphasizes development of technical patternmaking skills at an intermediate level. Students continue to evolve principles of design with draping methods and flat patternmaking to develop original design ideas. Emphasis is on relationships between two and three-dimensional design processes. These include interpretation of sketches into draped and finished garments, along with the use of draping techniques for both technical and creative design and organize research findings to formulate market strategies and trends to convey concepts and designs for a specified market. Teaching Methods: Learning will occur in an interactive classroom environment, in which the instructor will present course information through lectures and demonstrations. Often times the instructor will assist a student in seeking out answers rather than simply giving it. This is in effort to focus on student learning, engagement, problem solving, and information retention. Students will complete a variety of assignments designed to integrate information from the lectures and demonstrations to evaluate each student’s understanding of the material. Material needs to be read and prepped ahead of class to ensure optimal learning. Course Objectives:
1. Develop three-dimensional design ideas through draping of muslin on a body form. 2. Evaluation of existing garments and/or sketches to determine appropriate draping techniques needed to
develop design. 3. Develop sensitivity for fabric characteristics in order to recognize the possibilities and limitations of
different textures for garment design. 4. Develop a means for creative expression through the acquisition of skills needed to drape and produce
original garment designs. 5. Construct and use proper techniques to construct apparel first and production sample garments from
draped muslin patterns. 6. Use suitable hand construction and sewing techniques in assembling representative samples. 7. Practice fit alteration and fitting techniques. 8. Create presentations using Microsoft PowerPoint and effective visual and oral communication to present
garment designs, spec sheets, cost sheet, and other tech pack info. 9. Critique their own work and that of peers to evaluate correct methods and identify ways to strengthen
future work. Designs & Illustrations by Colin Behr
Fall 2014
Apparel, Educational Studies & Hospitality Management
AMD 325 Patternmaking II
SPRING 2016
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Table of Contents Syllabus Pg. # AMD 325 Syllabus 1 Course Objectives 1 Expectations 3 Course Policies 3 Course Assignments & Requirements 7 Course Points 8 Grading Scale 8 Supplies 8 Schedule 9 Dress Form Contract 12 & 143 Patternmaking Checklist 14 Required Texts:
Kiisel, Karolyn. (2013). Draping The Complete Course. Lawerence King Publishing: London, United Kingdom.
Reference Texts:
Joseph-Armstrong, H. Draping for Apparel Design. New York: Fairchild Publications Joseph-Armstrong, H. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. New Jersey: Pretince Hall Shaeffer, C. (1993). Couture Sewing Techniques. New Jersey: Pretince Hall. Shaeffer, C. (2001). Sewing for the apparel industry. New Jersey: Pretince-Hall. Research Site: Research fashion trends and designers for projects on the fashion forecasting site, Stylesight. Access the website from http://www.stylesight.com/edu/, on computers in 106, 108, 113, and 307 MacKay. Your username is your ISU email address and the system will generate a password (which you can change at any time). From there you may go to www.stylesight.com from anywhere and enter your login credentials.
Every 90 days you will need to reactivate your account within the IP address (106, 108, 113, 307 MacKay). You will receive instructions and pop-up messages when that time comes. Students are expected to conduct research and keep up-to-date with current styles and trends through fashion publications and on-line reporting services including Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, W, WWD & websites such as www.style.com, & www.firstview.com. There are also numerous individual designer sites. Method of Evaluation: Students will be graded on practice draping problems, one design challenge, and completion of three draped garments. Expectations of Myself as Instructor:
1. Start class on time 2. Be a resource for my students
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3. Challenge my students 4. Provide projects that are useful tools for developing a professional portfolio 5. Be supportive of your ideas and provide constructive feedback
Expectations of You as Students:
1. Prepare yourself PRIOR to class including but not limited to preparing muslin, reading assigned book pages, and DVD included in the text.
2. Challenge yourselves 3. Have a good attitude 4. Support your classmates 5. Take pride in your work 6. Attend class and fully participate 7. Call and leave a message or email on the rare occasion you will not attend class 8. Stay for the entire class period 9. Clean up after yourself at the end of class 10. Turn off your cell phones/computers/tablets during lectures, presentations, and demonstrations.
Lecture & Laboratory Procedures:
1. Students are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each meeting. The instructor will NOT provide them.
2. Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of class. 3. Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted. 4. Students are expected to make their own patterns and complete their own work. 5. Students are encouraged to watch process on projects of other class members and to share learning
experience with others. 6. Projects are due on the designated date. Late projects will NOT BE ACCEPTED. The only
consideration will be given to situations with written physician’s notes or family deaths. Course Policies: Class begins promptly at the designated time. Work times in the lab are just as important as lecture, discussion and demonstrations. Along with your own efforts, you are expected to learn by observing the problems encountered by your classmates and their solutions. You are expected to have all assignments completed on time and participate in classroom critiques and discussion. You are also expected to take an active role in your education, take initiative, and ask questions for assistance. Academic Honesty - The class will follow Iowa State University’s policy on academic dishonesty. Anyone suspected of academic dishonesty will be reported to the Dean of Students Office. http://www.dso.iastate.edu/ja/academic/misconduct.html It is expected that all work you submit will be original and solely the result of your own efforts. Submitting work from a previous semester is not allowed. Resubmission of work will result in a 0 for the project. “The academic work of all students must comply with all University policies on academic honesty. Examples of academic misconduct are:
Attempting to use unauthorized information in the taking of an exam;
Submitting as one’s own work, themes, reports, drawings, laboratory notes, computer programs or other products prepared by another person;
Knowingly assisting another student in obtaining or using unauthorized materials; or
Plagiarism.” (Student Conduct Code, Section 4.2.1, p. 27) All instances of cheating will be handled individually and disciplinary actions to be administered may include any or all of the following: a grade of “0” on the assignment or exam, automatic failure in the course. Accommodation of Special Needs - Iowa State University complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act and Sect 504 of the Rehabilitation Act. If you have a disability and anticipate needing accommodations in this course, please contact the instructor to set up a meeting within the first two weeks of the semester or as soon as you become aware of your need. Before meeting with the instructor, you will need to obtain a SAAR form with recommendations for accommodations from the Disability Resources Office http://www.dso.iastate.edu/dr/ ,
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located in Room 1076 on the main floor of the Student Services Building. Their telephone number is 515.294.7220 or email [email protected]. Retroactive requests for accommodations will not be honored. Special accommodation exam - All students who need special accommodations for exams as indicated in their SARS agreement must arrange taking the exams at the Exam Accommodation Center (see below). To make sure that the exam is scheduled at the time of midterm/final, students should make reservations in advance. When students who do not need special accommodation miss an exam and are eligible for a make-up exam (e.g., illness), faculty or student with approval from the faculty should contact AESHM department office to check availability and then schedule the exam date/time. Or, consider giving the exam in his/her office. Alcohol & Controlled Substance Abuse - Abuse of alcohol or other controlled substances, during sponsored university events, during field studies, or in class settings, or when it creates a hazard for the student and others in the room provides justification for receiving a failing grade for the course or removal from the event. (See the ISU policies at http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/alcohol/ and http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/drugs ) Attendance – Success in this group study requires attendance. Formal attendance will not be taken; however, as an emerging professional into the apparel industry it is expected you will attend class and fully participate in each class meeting. Attendance is required for every class session except for extenuating circumstances. You are allowed up to a total of three absences, excused or unexcused. At the fourth absence, your final grade will be lowered by 5 percent. Each additional absence beyond the fourth lowers your final grade by another 5 percent. Coming to class late (5 minutes or more) three times equals one unexcused absence. Leaving early will also affect your final grade. If a class is missed it is your responsibility to obtain the information missed. Use your absences carefully! Class absences because of study tours, course-related field trips, professional conferences, practicum, and other educational activities that requires students to be absent from class will be handled as follows. Faculty supervising the educational activity should provide a memo or letter identifying specific dates and educational activity (study tour, field trip, etc.) to students sufficiently in advance so that faculty teaching other classes can be notified of absences. Students should allow no less than 5 days (excluding weekends) before the absence. Prior to the missed class, students need to discuss with the instructor make-up exams, announced quizzes, projects or labs that will be missed. Assignments – Late assignments will not be accepted. If you encounter extenuating circumstances please contact me within 6 hours of the projects due time. Classroom Courtesy – Respect and care for the classroom and studio spaces are expected of each student. You are to leave the studio in better condition than you found it, so that all students have a positive experience using our studio and classroom spaces. You are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each meeting. Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of class. Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted. You are encouraged to watch progress on projects of other class members and to share learning experience with others. Class Prep - You will be expected AND required to prepare all muslin PRIOR to the start of class at 12pm. This means you must read the assigned text, cut, press, and prepare fabric according to measurements listed in text. In class draping exercises will be due at the end of each class meeting. To ensure time for completion, preparation must be done or students risk losing points.
Classroom or Grade Problems - If a student has a course related problem, she or he should discuss it with the course instructor first. If the student is not satisfied, she or he should contact his/her advisor to address the situation. The advisor will suggest possible course of actions. For more information refer to http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#appealofacademicgrievances.
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Course Fees - A course fee of $90 is assigned to this class. A general fee of $45 is assessed to all students in the class that covers lab equipment maintenance and repairs, pattern paper, thread, etc. The rest of the funds are used to purchase tag board, pattern hooks, and fabric for draping exercises.
Students are responsible for purchasing all muslin, materials for design projects including but not limited to, fashion fabric, linings, closures, etc. Students can utilize the digital textile printer if so desired and will be responsible for the costs associated with that. Dead Week - This class follows the Iowa State University Dead Week policy as noted in section 10.6.4 of the Faculty Handbook http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook. Electronic Devices - All usage of laptops or other similar devices must be approved by the instructor. All cell phones should be turned off and put away, or the instructor can ask the student to leave the classroom for the rest of the class period, in which case it will be counted as an absence. It is understood the use of computers will occur frequently in this class. It’s asked that you refrain from using it while the instructor is teaching a lesson, and left for work time. Emergency Response - In an emergency situation, follow emergency response guide athttp://www.ehs.iastate.edu/sites/default/files/uploads/publications/posters/EmergencyPoster.pdf. For more information, refer tohttp://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/emergencynotification General - Use correct terminology; list citations for all references (use appropriate style such as APA, MLA, or the Chicago Style Manual), including Internet sources, and quotations (class materials will identify specific citation format to be used); apply appropriate mathematical and industry/business concepts, and use standard English grammar and punctuation. Global Citizenship - Global citizenship involves positive interaction with and respect for other cultures and the diversity of individuals in and out of the classroom. A good global citizen will make an effort to appreciate differences in language, culture, customs, behaviors and means of doing business, accept diversity and seek to build new relationships. Global citizens treat everyone with respect and courtesy in and out of the classroom. International faculty and teaching assistants are to be accorded the same attention and courtesy as given to other faculty and TAs. Harassment and Discrimination - Iowa State University strives to maintain our campus as a place of work and study for faculty, staff, and students that is free of all forms of prohibited discrimination and harassment based upon race, ethnicity, sex (including sexual assault), pregnancy, color, religion, national origin, physical or mental disability, age, marital status, sexual orientation, gender identity, genetic information, or status as a U.S. veteran. Any student who has concerns about such behavior should contact his/her instructor, Student Assistance at 515-294-1020 or email [email protected], or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance at 515-294-7612. Picking Up Student Work Following Grading - The pickup of all student projects and papers must be monitored for security and confidentiality. Individual professors/instructors may make arrangements to return assignments during class periods or from their offices. Items must be monitored by the professor/instructor to insure that they are not lost or stolen. Professors and instructors, who are not able to sufficiently monitor this activity, must arrange for pick-up in 31 MacKay by providing the office staff with a class list. Students must show their student ID and sign for all items before they will be allowed to retrieve them. Presentations, projects, assignments, and papers - These graded dimensions of a course must be presented in the format identified in the syllabus or project/assignment description handout. Professional Behavior - Professional behavior and a professional work attitude are expected of all students/staff/faculty at all times while on campus, in class, or while representing ISU away from campus (including field trips, field study, internships, and study tours). This includes respect and consideration of fellow
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students, faculty, and TAs; maintaining classroom spaces; meeting or adhering to dress codes, where applicable; and active participation in group and individual critiques and classroom discussions. Demonstration of respect includes paying attention to speakers, arriving on time for class or appointments, staying in class for the entire time and not walking out of class before it is over or returning after a few minutes, appropriate demeanor during class (no whispering, listening to music, no cell phones ringing or being answered, no use of electronic communication such as texting or visiting websites), etc. Religious Accommodation - If an academic or work requirement conflicts with your religious practices and/or observances, you may request reasonable accommodations. Your request must be in writing, and your instructor or supervisor will review the request. You or your instructor may also seek assistance from the Dean of Students Office or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance.
Standards for student work - All student work must adhere to the minimum standards listed below and in the course syllabus.
Student Work in Repeat Classes - This policy applies to the work handed in by students who are repeating a course offered by the AESHM Department. All coursework for the repeat attempt must be original work and cannot have been worked on or submitted for a grade in the original or subsequent attempt(s). This coursework includes but is not limited to papers, presentations, notebooks, portfolios, projects, and labs. Any work submitted for a second time that had been submitted in a previous semester by that or any other student will receive an F for that project/assignment and a new project/assignment cannot be submitted later in the semester to remedy the F. See the ISU policy at http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#academicdishonesty Contact Information - If you are experiencing, or have experienced, a problem with any of the above issues, email [email protected]. Teamwork - Communicate effectively with team members (attend group meetings, exchange critical contact information (email address and phone number(s)), share written communication – including email), work cooperatively with members, and contribute equally to project development and written/visual materials. Students failing minimum teamwork expectations may be removed from the team. See the syllabus for individual course policies.
Violence Free University - At ISU, violence, threats or implied threats of violence, and intimidation (verbal or physical acts intended to frighten or coerce) impede the goal of providing a safe environment and will not be tolerated. For more information, refer to http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/violence .
Work Areas - You are responsible for keeping the classroom neat and clean. Each student needs to clean up their work areas before she or he leaves. Pick up scraps on tables and the floor and put away pattern blocks and equipment. Absolutely no food or drink is allowed in the classroom at any time. It is the responsibility of the last person leaving the workroom to be sure the irons, lights, and all machines are turned off. Course Assignments & Requirements: *For more detailed information on grading please refer to individual grade sheets on Bb. Black Board Quizes – Quizzes over required reading material and information presented in class will be given through Blackboard. Quizzes are listed on the class schedule and when listed as open will open at 8am on the date indicated and close at 8pm on date indicated on class schedule. Draping Problem Assignments - Each assignment will be evaluated on the form in multiple stages, during the 1st drape of the right half of the garment and the fully sewn garment with closures. Muslin needs to be completed and on the form per grading rubric. Each draping problem assignment will be turned in during the class time indicated with the fully sewn muslin hung on a hanger and paper patterns, and additional papers on a pattern hook.
1. Half drape of assigned project, labeled correctly fit appropriate, ease, proper pinning, etc 2. Finished ½ sewn muslin (on form for evaluation prior to turning in)
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a. trued lines and labeled properly ie name, pattern name, size, form number, any identifying markings (bust point, seam allowances, grainline, CF/CB, closure location, etc). Appropriate seam finishes, order of operation with sewing, special treatments per grade sheet, etc
3. Paper pattern a. pattern muslin transferred to properly labeled as above and accurately transferred
4. Fully sewn muslin with required sewing techniques and finishing pre grade sheet. 5. rabbit punch and attach to pattern hook 6. Pattern card typed
a. Tech flat – computer generated, accurate representation of finished garment draped b. Patterns listed – all listed and correct cut number c. Fashion Fabric swatch d. All notions necessary – zipper(s), buttons, etc.
7. Grading sheet from syllabus with students name Draping Notebook – Each draping problem assignment needs to be organized and placed in a 3 ring binder in a manner which the student can use it as a reference guide, (similar to AMD 221 notebook). Keep graded draping assignments (sewn muslin and paper pattern), pattern card, and grade sheets in clear sleeves so that you can access them easily. Develop an organization system containing enough detail to allow the user to find information easily. Easy-to-find divider tabs should be used along with plastic sleeves to protect pages
1. Table of Contents 2. Each of the draped projects in order draped and
organized as follows: a. Pattern Cards b. Grade Sheets c. Paper Patterns d. Fully Sewn Muslin
3. Sewing & Hand stitching techniques Original Designs 1, 2, & 3 – Each original design project will be turned in on a proper garment hanger and needs to include the following attached to hanger via rabbit punch on paper items:
1. Powerpoint a. Inspiration b. Target Market c. Pricing Guide d. Photos each on separate page
i. Technical Sketches Front & Back ii. Fully colored illustrations Front & Back
2. Muslin Drape with proper labeling on muslin 3. Production Pattern (paper pattern) 4. Production Sample (fashion fabric) 5. Printed papers
a. Pattern Card b. Pricing Sheet
6. PowerPoint Presentation uploaded to CyBox
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Course Points: Black Board Quizzes 35 points Draping Problem Assignments 420 points Draping Notebook 145 points Design Challenge 100 points Original Design 1 100 points Original Design 2 100 points Original Design 3 100 points Total Points 1000 points Grading Scale: 925 - 1000 = A 900- 924 = A- 875 - 899 = B+ 825 - 874 = B 800 - 824 = B- 775 – 799 = C+ 725 – 774 = C 700 – 724 = C- 675 – 699 = D+ 525 – 674 = D 600 – 624 = D- 0 – 599 = F Late Policy: Late assignments will not be accepted. Supplies: #2 Pencil – ALWAYS SHARP Mechanical Pencil Red Ball Point Pen Colored Pencils: Red, Green, White 4 Pattern Hooks (from AMD 225) Awl French Curve Vary Form Curve B85 plastic ruler Measuring Tape Push Pins & Pincushion Twill tape Scotch Tape Disappearing Ink Marking Pen Sharpie Pen NOT Marker Tailor’s Chalk Pencil Long dressmaker steel pins with glass heads Fabric Shears Paper Scissors Tracing Wheel Seam Ripper Juki Bobbin Case & Bobbins Juki Zipper Feet Thimble Needles for hand stitching Muslin Tracing Paper Tracing Wheel Draping Muslin: 60” wide, 10-20yds Available at JoAnns, Hobby Lobby, Hancock Fabrics
Cotton Knit Fabric 45”/60”, 2yds 3” binder for notebook Plastic sleeves to organize notebook Fashion fabric (there is some available for student use in the pattern room closet, please ask instructor) Findings for original designs *This list is an estimate, more supplies could be required.
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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due Week 1
January 11th
Introduction - Syllabus
Draping Intro PPT
Laser cutting file project intro
pp. 6-13
Quiz 1 Monday &
Wednesdays readings
opens
January 13th Assign dress forms
Demos:
- Form Prep: pg. 9 prep form with bust tape,
waist tape, hip tape
- Dart Variations – practice and prepare
muslin per page 42. Will work through as a
group
- Transfer pattern to paper
Improvisation draping with 1 large piece of
fabric. 302 – 314 306-307
pp. 18-25
pp. 42-43 Dart Variation
Prepare fabric approx. 36” wide
x 50” long at minimum.
Prep form – twill tape
bust, waist, HBL, pins
at armholes.
Bring 2 yards muslin to
practice draping
January 15th Draping & Fitting
- Straight Skirt p. 96
pp. 88-91
pp. 96-97
Quiz 1 closes
Laser Cut hanger file
due on Cybox
Week 2
January 18th HOLIDAY – NO SCHOOL
January 20th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern
transfer
- Straight Skirt p. 96
½ muslin drape on form
at start of class
January 22nd Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit
check (if fit off, do correction, drape, & sew
up again prior to turning in)
- Straight Skirt p. 96
Week 3
January 25th
Draping & Fitting
- Bias Circle Skirt p. 100
pp. 100-101
Video: 24
Straight Skirt Fully
sewn Muslin Sample &
Paper pattern due (half
body)
January 27th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern
transfer
- Bias Circle Skirt p. 100
½ muslin drape on form
at start of class
January 29th
Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit
check (if fit off, do correction, drape, & sew
up again prior to turning in)
- Bias Circle Skirt p. 100
Week 4
February 1st
Draping & Fitting
- Yoke skirt w/ gathers & flare
pp. 110 - 111 Bias Skirt Fully sewn
Muslin Sample & Paper
pattern due (half body)
February 3rd Fit group evaluation & paper pattern
transfer
- Yoke skirt w/ gathers & flare
½ muslin drape on form
at start of class
February 5th Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit
check (if fit off, do correction, drape, & sew
up again prior to turning in)
- Yoke skirt w/ gathers & flare
Week 5
February 8th
Draping & Fitting
- Classic bodice w/ bust dart
pp. 44-45
Video: 11, 12, 13
(drape with dart on back at
princess line NOT to neckline)
114-117
Yoke Skirt Fully sewn
Muslin Sample & Paper
pattern due (half body)
February 10th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern ½ muslin drape on form
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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due transfer
- Classic bodice w/ bust dart at start of class
February 12th Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit
check (if fit off, do correction, drape, & sew
up again prior to turning in)
- Classic bodice w/ bust dart
Week 6
February 15th
Draping & Fitting
- Bodice w/ French Dart
pp. 46-47
Video: 14
Classic Bodice Fully
sewn Muslin Sample &
Paper pattern due (half
body)
February 17th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern
transfer
- Bodice w/ French Dart
½ muslin drape on form
at start of class
February 19th Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit
check (if fit off, do correction, drape, & sew
up again prior to turning in)
- Bodice w/ French Dart
Week 7
February 22nd
Draping & Fitting
- Bodice w/ armhole princess line
pp. 64-65 French Dart Fully sewn
Muslin Sample & Paper
pattern due (half body)
Quiz 2 opens
February 24th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern
transfer
- Bodice w/ armhole princess line
½ muslin drape on form
at start of class
February 26th Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit
check (if fit off, do correction, drape, & sew
up again prior to turning in)
- Bodice w/ armhole princess line
Quiz 2 closes
Week 8
February 29th
Draping & Fitting
- Basic Dress Foundation
pp. 50-56
Video: 15, 16, 17, 18, 20
40-41
Armhole Princess Fully
sewn Muslin Sample &
Paper pattern due (half
body)
March 2nd Fit group evaluation & paper pattern
transfer
- Basic Dress Foundation
pp. 112-150
Review: Pattern Card
Information & Pattern Procedure
List
½ muslin drape on form
at start of class
March 4th Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit
check (if fit off, do correction, drape, & sew
up again prior to turning in)
- Basic Dress Foundation
Cost Sheet Overview – bring
print out for notes
AI file for laser cut
hanger submitted to
CyBox by 10pm Friday
Oct. 16th.
Week 9
March 7th
Original Design 1 (upper & lower torso
garment) Assigned & begin draping
Laser Cut Hangers
Basic Dress Fully sewn
Muslin Sample & Paper
pattern due (half body)
March 9th Original Design 1- Drape like fashion fabric
March 11th Original Design 1- Present 1st sample Present 1st sample (full
R&L w closures,
linings, facings, etc)
Week 10
March 14th
SPRING BREAK – NO SCHOOL March 16th
March 18th
Week 11
March 21st
Original Design 1- Sew Fashion Fabric
March 23rd Original Design 1- Sew Fashion Fabric
March 25th Original Design 1 - Present Original Woven Design
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Week 12 Original Design 2 - Knit Assigned pp. 186-201
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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due March 28th
March 30th Original Design 2 – Drape
April 1st Original Design 2 – Present 1st sample Present Muslin
Week 13
April 4th
Original Design 2 – Sew Fashion Fabric Notebook Due
April 6th Original Design 2 – Sew Fashion Fabric
April 8th Original Design 2 – Present Original Knit Design 2
Week 12
April 11th
Bias Lecture
Original Design 3 – Bias Assigned
pp. 282-298
April 13th Original Design 3 – Drape Pg 284 – 298 bias
April 15th NO CLASSES – Fashion Show Behind the Scenes Day
Week 15
April 18th
Original Design 3 – Present Muslin Present Muslin
April 20th Original Design 3 – Sew
April 22nd Original Design 3 – Sew
Week 16
April 25th
Original Design 3 – Present
Design Challenge assigned
Original Bias Design 3
April 27th Design Challenge preparation
April 29th Design Challenge work
FINALS
WEEK
Tuesday May
3rd
Design Challenge Presentation time 7:30am
– 9:30am FINALS WEEK Design Challenge
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Rules for Use – Body Forms
AMD 325 Spring 2016
Instructor Copy
I agree to use the forms in the industrial production lab with responsibility and consideration. I understand that the forms are essential to the success of all design students, and that my actions impact the success of everyone using the lab.
I agree not to remove the waistline tape or the essential guide pins from the form. If I notice that these are missing, I will notify an instructor so they can be replaced.
I agree that if I remove the bust bridge tape while I am using the form, that I will replace it when I am finished.
I know that the form is not a pincushion. I will not leave pins in the form when I am not actively using it.
I agree that when using the forms, I will not use any markers or other similar materials that may bleed through fabric and stain the forms.
When I am finished using the form, I agree to return the shoulders to their expanded position as well as drop the form to the lowest normal position. This puts significantly less stress on the form, ensuring the longest possible useful lifespan.
I agree that I will not leave my materials on a form when I am not actively using it. This includes, but is not limited to, pins, style tapes, muslin, and fashion fabric. If it is absolutely essential to my design that I leave materials on a form between work sessions, I understand that I must check with an instructor first. Only an instructor can grant permission to leave materials on the form, and any materials left on a form must be accompanied by a note from an instructor.
I agree that when I am done working with a form, I will roll it to an appropriate location – room 2063 against the north, east, and west walls.
I agree to record the form number I am using when I come in for open lab hours. I agree to inform instructors immediately if I noticed any damage on a form. I agree that if I am found responsible for damaging a form in a manner that necessitates its
replacement, I may be held responsible for that cost. Depending on the type of form, this cost may fall into the range of $800-$2500.
I agree not to move the forms to any rooms aside from 2051, 2061, or 2063 LeBaron Hall without instructor permission.
I have been informed of the above rules and agree to abide by them when using the bodyforms in 2051, 2061, and 2063 Le Baron Hall. __________ ___________________________ ______________________ Date Signature Printed Name
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Rules for Use – Body Forms
AMD 325 Spring 2016
Student Copy
I agree to use the forms in the industrial production lab with responsibility and consideration. I understand that the forms are essential to the success of all design students, and that my actions impact the success of everyone using the lab.
I agree not to remove the waistline tape or the essential guide pins from the form. If I notice that these are missing, I will notify an instructor so they can be replaced.
I agree that if I remove the bust bridge tape while I am using the form, that I will replace it when I am finished.
I know that the form is not a pincushion. I will not leave pins in the form when I am not actively using it.
I agree that when using the forms, I will not use any markers or other similar materials that may bleed through fabric and stain the forms.
When I am finished using the form, I agree to return the shoulders to their expanded position as well as drop the form to the lowest normal position. This puts significantly less stress on the form, ensuring the longest possible useful lifespan.
I agree that I will not leave my materials on a form when I am not actively using it. This includes, but is not limited to, pins, style tapes, muslin, and fashion fabric. If it is absolutely essential to my design that I leave materials on a form between work sessions, I understand that I must check with an instructor first. Only an instructor can grant permission to leave materials on the form, and any materials left on a form must be accompanied by a note from an instructor.
I agree that when I am done working with a form, I will roll it to an appropriate location – room 2063 against the north, east, and west walls.
I agree to record the form number I am using when I come in for open lab hours. I agree to inform instructors immediately if I noticed any damage on a form. I agree that if I am found responsible for damaging a form in a manner that necessitates its
replacement, I may be held responsible for that cost. Depending on the type of form, this cost may fall into the range of $800-$2500.
I agree not to move the forms to any rooms aside from 2051, 2061, or 2063 LeBaron Hall without instructor permission.
I have been informed of the above rules and agree to abide by them when using the bodyforms in 2051, 2061, and 2063 Le Baron Hall. __________ ___________________________ ______________________ Date Signature Printed Name
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Patternmaking Checklist Patternmaking symbols, such as notches, burn holes (punch holes), and circles are a means of
communicating the work of the patternmaker, the designer, the marker maker, and production personnel. Missing or incorrect pattern markings and labels cost a company time and money. Therefore, it is important to go through this checklist on each pattern piece you complete.
For future on-the-job use: If the suggested pattern information differs from that of the company’s standards, defer to the company’s standard.
General Guidelines: ______ Neat workmanship is essential.
______ Always draft 1st patterns for the right side of the body
______ Always draft without seam allowances.
______ Patterns are on pattern paper
______ Slopers are on tag board and include left & right sides
______ Trueing: Establishing correct seam lengths—for example, trueing a side seam having a side dart.
______ Blending: The smoothing and straightening of pencil lines, cross marks, and dot marks
______ Walking: Making seam lines that sew together equal lengths
______ Balancing: Making seam lines that sew together matching shapes (side seams only)
Grainline ______ Must be drawn on each pattern piece.
______ Must be 2” away from the CF or CB line.
______ Must indicate how the pattern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric.
______ Grain line should extend from edge to edge
______ Grain line arrows (1 OR 2 below):
1. Arrows placed at both ends the pattern may be placed in either direction along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric (for fabrics without a nap).
2. An arrow placed at the top or the bottom the pattern must be placed in one direction only (for fabrics with a nap).
Labeling ______ Write or print pattern information clearly.
______ Mark all pattern pieces in a consistent location.
______ Pattern information should be on the right-side-up of each pattern piece.
______ Pattern number - size - number to cut : along grain line
273 - 8 - 2
______ Name of pattern piece
______ Your name
______ Each pattern piece should be labeled with CF (Center Front) and CB (Center Back) as appropriate.
______ Fold lines: dotted line . . . . . . . . . .
______ Gathers: dashed line ------------
______ Buttonhole [--------] and button x
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______ Each pattern should be labeled with a thumbnail sketch of the finished design on the main pattern piece.
______ Fabrication - woven or knit
______ “Right-side-up”: Indicates to the marker maker that the pattern is to be placed face up on the marker (for asymmetrical designs).
______ Each pattern should be drafted and labeled in the color corresponding to the material it is to be cut from: Pencil/Black = Self, Red= Interfacing, Green=Lining, Purple = Combination.
Landmarks ______ Bust Apex: All front bodice pieces should be marked with an “X” on the bust apex.
______ Shoulder Level: All back bodice pieces should be marked with a horizontal line, ¼ of the length of the back below the neckline, perpendicular to the center, labeled “Shoulder Level”.
______ Bicep Level: All sleeve pieces should be marked with a horizontal line across the widest part of the bicep perpendicular to the center, labeled “Bicep Level”.
______ Hip Level: All skirt/trouser pieces should be marked with a horizontal line across the widest part of the hip perpendicular to the center, labeled “Hip Level”.
Square Perpendicular Seams
(unless purposefully planned by the designer to be on an angle)
______ CF Neckline: ¼” On a symmetrical pattern, this correlates to ¼” right and ¼” left or ½” total.
______ CB Neckline: ¼” ( ½” total)
______ Armhole SS: ¼” (½” total)
______ CF Waistline: ½” (1” total)
______ CB Waistline: ½” (1” total)
Front Bodice Dart Point Locations
(Refer to AMD 225 textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, pp. 41 and 44)
______ When using one-dart front bodice sloper (and all other sloper patterns except the two-dart front bodice sloper) to develop a new design, back-off developed dart points from the bust apex by ½”.
______ When using two-dart front bodice sloper to develop a new design, back-off the waist dart point from the bust apex by ¾”. The side dart is backed-off depending on the bust cup size; A cup—¾”, B cup—1”, C cup—1 ½” and D cup—1 ¾”. Darts that are positioned above the side dart location are treated the same as a side dart.
Burn holes (aka punch holes)
(Refer to AMD 225 textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, p. 4)
______ Place and circle a burn hole, ½” from the end of each dart point. For double ended darts (fisheye darts), also place a burn hole ½” in from the widest point of the dart on either side.
______ Place and circle a burn hole, ” in from each end of a pocket or other trim placement.
______ Place and circle two burn holes for tuck darts; ½” below the finish length, mark one burn hole along the center fold and the other ” inside the stitchline. (Refer to textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, pp. 100 and 105)
Notch Locations (Refer to AMD 225 textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, p. 4)
______ Seam Allowance: One end of each seamline only. Should be the side the seamstress would start sewing the seam from. Try to avoid notching both sides of a corner.
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______ Hemlines: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking the hemline on each pattern piece with a hem allowance.
______ Notch connecting points on stylelines. Use a single notch on front pattern pieces. Use a double notch on back pattern pieces
______ Center Front & Center Back
______ Dart Legs: Use a single notch to mark each dart leg where it intersects with the edge of the pattern piece.
______ Ease/Gathers: Mark with a single notch where the gathers start and end on a pattern piece. Draw a dashed line 1/8” away from the seam line inside seam allowance between the start and end gather notches. The pattern piece that corresponds (i.e., the piece that will be joined with the gathered/eased piece) should have corresponding notches.
______ Joining Parts: Mark corresponding pattern pieces where pieces join together, (i.e. side seams, shoulder seams, waist seam, etc.)
______ Zipper: Place a triple notch to indicate the location of the end of the zipper.
______ Foldbacks: A notch should be placed at both ends of a piece that has an extended facing.
______ Waist Level: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking the waistline on pattern pieces extending below waist level (i.e. torso, jacket, dress, etc.)
______ Knee Level: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking knee level on pattern pieces extending below knee level (i.e. dress, skirt, trouser, etc.)
______ Elbow Level: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking elbow.
______ Armhole: A single notch is usually placed on the front armhole (4” from the armscye/underarm intersection). A double notch is usually placed on the back armhole (4 ¼” from the armscye/underarm intersection).
______ Sleeve: Notches should also be placed on the sleeve to correspond with the front and back armhole notches.
______ Sleeve: A single notch is usually placed where the sleeve will meet the shoulder seamline.
Seam Allowances Outline ALL seam allowances (for classroom purposes).
(Unless otherwise instructed, the following seam allowances will be considered as standard for this course)
______ Neckline (joining to facing): ¼”
______ Neckline (with collar): ½”
______ Armhole (sleeveless, joining to facing): ¼”
______ Armholes (with sleeves): ½”
______ Sleeve: ½”
______ Enclosed Seams (joining facings/linings): ¼”
______ Tight curves: ¼”
______ Shoulder: ½”
______ Waistline: ½”
______ Style lines: ½”
______ Narrow Rolled Hemlines: ½”
______ Center Front: 1”
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______ Center Back: 1”
______ Side Seams: 1”
______ Zippers: 1”
______ Hemlines: 2”
Rabbit Punch Hole ______ All full-scale pattern pieces should be punched with the rabbit hole punch in a consistent
location to allow for tidy storage.
Pattern Hooks ______ All corresponding full-scale pattern pieces should be hung on a single pattern hook for
submission.
Pattern Record Card ______ Each pattern should be submitted with a Pattern Record Card, the pattern record card is the
first part of the technical design pack and helps transfer important information about the design to all members of the production team. The pattern record card should be typed.
______ Designer Name Your name.
______ Style Number Corresponds to the style number written on all related pattern pieces.
______ Yardage Amount of fabric required to construct the design.
______ Date
______ Technical Flat A technical (flat) illustration of the garment, both front and back, including seams, closures, and other details.
______ # Indicates the number of pattern pieces included in the design packet when each pattern piece is listed on a separate line.
______ Pattern Piece Identifies the included pattern pieces (i.e. Front Bodice, Back Bodice, Front Neckline Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Breast Pocket, Breast Pocket Flap). Corresponds to the pattern name written on each pattern piece.
______ # to Cut Indicates the number of pieces to cut in the fabric of each pattern piece.
______ Notions List the size/number of any notions or trims necessary to complete the design (i.e. 1 – 9” invisible zipper, 3 – ½” shank buttons, 1 ¼” yard sequin elastic)
______ Swatch Include a 2” square swatch of the desired
