Apparel Internship Report

Apparel Internship Report

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai

Summer Internship ReportatBombay Rayon Fashions Limited, Doddaballapur, Bengaluru

Submitted By-Abhishek GautamAshutosh KumarAshutosh VatsaRajeev KumarStanley GeorgeDepartment of Fashion TechnologyBatch 2009-13A summer Internship Report for Partial fulfillment of the Requirement for the award of Degree inBachelor of Fashion Technology-Apparel ProductionACKNOWLDGEMENTWe wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in learning process during this internship. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there are some special people who has to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached the conclusion of this Internship so quickly and efficiently.We wish to thank our Professor, Mr. S. P. Jomichan for providing this wonderful opportunity, challenging and motivation. We are also thankful to our Course Coordinator Mr. Ranjan Kumar Saha and to all the other faculties of Department of Fashion Technology for their support and guidance.No amount of Gratitude is adequate for Mr. Anjan Mohanthy, Vice-President, Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd., for his consent in allowing us to conduct our internship in their venerated institution.We express our deep indebtedness to Mr. Attaulla Khan, HR manager who guided and supported us through every stage of our internship.We also wish to thank a couple of senior managers as listed below for their technical guidance and assistance during internship.Mr. Nagesh, GM, Unit-7AMr. Bhaskar, GM, Unit-7BMr. Shekhar, GM, Unit-7CMr. Manju Nath, Production manager, Unit-7AMr. Jagdeesh, Production Manager, Unit-7BMr. Venkatesh, Production Manager, Unit-7CMr. Chinappa, IE Manager, Unit-7AMr. Vinod O J, IE Manager, Unit-7BMr. Anand Kumar, IE Manager, Unit-7CWe take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents for their consistent faith and support.

Abhishek GautamAshutosh KumarAshutosh VatsaRajeev KumarStanley George

Company Profile

For over two decades, Bombay Rayon Fashions is considered as Indias most venerable manufacturers and exporters of fashion fabrics. A rather humble beGInning has today converged into a vertically integrated textile conglomerate, offering comprehensive capabilities from yarn dyeing to finished garments. With rapid growth Bombay Rayon Fashions celebrates its glory with bright shades of triumph. Bombay Rayon manufactures one of the most versatile and technically advanced fabrics and apparels in India. Presently, GI is the largest shirt manufacturer in India. The fabric manufacturing facilities are 50 million metres per annum. Our garment manufacturing facilities are 35 million pieces per annum.Milestones: 1986 Bombay Rayon Group was established by Mr. Janardhan Agarwal.

1990 First fabric manufacturing facility came into existence in Maharashtra.

1998Bombay Rayon group commenced export of fabrics.2001 Garment division was launched.2005 Bombay Rayon Groups business was consolidated into GI.The company made a successful IPO and is listed on all the stock exchanges in India.GI also acquired DPJ Clothing U.K., supplying to high street retailers in U.K. 2005 GI set up 7 garment manufacturing facilities in Bangalore with 7000 machines. 2007GI acquired Leela Scottish Lace one of the largest garment manufacturing units set up in India, making GI one of the largest apparel groups in India.2007 GI also acquired LNJ Apparel a 1000 machine specialized bottoms plant.2007 GI marked the commencement of the mega USD 250 million textile and garment project under a special MOU signed with the government of Maharashtra.2008 GI acquired the iconic brand Guru.

ProductsFabricsBombay Rayon reigns as a leading supplier of quality fabrics worldwide. Understanding the needs of this exciting industry, Bombay Rayon product line blend class and style in an extensive collection of mens, womens & childrens clothing. The popularity over the years is attributed to value based pricing in 100% cotton, polyester, viscose and their blends and specialty fibers like lycra, modal, tencel, lyocell and polynosic.Every fabric in the Bombay Rayon collection must pass the ultimate comfort test. Thats why it take the time and expense to ensure it stays so unbelievably soft and comfortable. The commitment to genuine Bombay Rayon quality shows in the fabrics used. Along with the incredible fabrics and size offerings, at Bombay Rayon there are colours too vibrant and subdued, classic and contemporary.

ApparelComfortable, pure and simple - thats what the Apparel Collection from Bombay Rayon is all about. Great clothes in easy, contemporary styles made from soft, durable fabrics that all enjoy wearing to the office, on the road and over the weekendwhenever and wherever your active life takes them.The collections are made up of true wardrobe essentials for todays work environment. Whether anyone need a uniform for the team, a GIft or program item, Bombay Rayons apparel collection has just the right looks to fit both casual and more formal occasions.The corporate casual collection reduces the time and effort spent in looking great with natural coordinating combinations everyone loves for both work and leisure. In this collection of Bombay Rayon apparel, the company is proud to offer apparels of the highest quality, with construction details that are evident in every style. The styles have the look and functionality of outdoor apparel, but are made in everyday friendly fabrics that easily transition into the workplace.And the best part is, they are priced right. Value is a large part of the equation that's kept the Bombay Rayon Apparel Collection so popular over the years. One can afford the best!

Design Studio16 fabric designers for yarn dyed and dobbies and prints.24 garments designers for Men, Women and Kids Wear.CollectionsThe factories are well equipped to manufacture up- to-the minute apparel for Men, Women, and Kids. All the garment production facilities adhere to social compliances obligatory to international buyers.Home TextilesHaving newly ventured into home textiles segment, Bombay Rayon has already bagged niche buyers in the US. With quality material and meticulous craftsmanship, its focus is on export of beddings in both the adult and infant category. And with considerable experience in the garment industry, it aspires to excel in this undertaking too with flying colours. The state-of-the-art sampling units boast of in-house diGItal printing, baby rotary printing, flat screen printing, sampling warpers for yarn dyed fabric, cad/cam design maker, dyeing , washing and embroidery.

Sampling UnitPrintingEmbroidery Machine

Weaving Technology and InfrastructureThere are 6 weaving units in and around Mumbai produce 29 million meters of the world class fabrics annually. Stringent quality control at every stage of production, high tech warping, ultra modern projectile, rapier and air jet looms define state-of-the art weaving. Equipment and technology from Japan, Korea, Germany and Italy manufacture all types of weaves Plain, Dobby, Twill, Herring Bone, and Mechanical Seersucker ensuring adherence to high quality of all times.Integrated Textile Mill Doddaballapur, BengaluruThe first of its kind in India, this high-tech mill and composite setup with a project cost of USD $ 60 Million, boasts of yarn dyeing, weaving, fabric processing i.e. dyeing & printing, rotary + diGItal printing and garmenting all under one roof. Already installed are 2000 garment machine with capacity of 22000 units per 8 hour shift along with value-added facilities like Embroidery, Over Printing and Garment Washing. And with a promise of Short Lead time to the key customers, Bombay Rayon offer a 30-day garment delivery period with quickest turnaround time.

Testing Laboratories

Auto Lab from James Heal.Fully automatic shade matching machine from Technorama.Spectrophoto Meter from DataColor.An array of other fabric testing equipment to establish and conform to high quality norms specified by the overseas customers. Processing FacilitiesAll types of fabric finish Chintz, Liza, Carbon Peaching, Embossing, Crushing, Wrinkle Free, Coolmax, PU coating & Ombrey printing. Machines like Stenter from Bruckner, Stork Engraving Machine, Rotary printing machine from Pegasus (16 color), Continuous Bleaching Range, Cold Pad batch from Kusters.

Other Facilities There are other facilities like Embroidery, Laundry and DiGItal Printing.TechnologyBombay Rayon Fashions Limited has partnered with Datatex and SAP to implement a companywide Enterprise Resource Planning tool (ERP) to cover all textile and garmenting processes under one roof. Datatex specializes in the Textile and Garment industry. Today there are over 11500 workstations using datatex ERP in 38 countries in 14 different languages. Its customers include some of the world's largest and most important textile manufacturers. Datatex serves its international customers through its offices in Italy, Israel, the USA, Germany & Switzerland.

The Financial expertise will come from SAP through their SAP FICO module. The ERP will sit on state of the art IBM servers which will be housed in fully redundant in-house Data Center in the Doddaballapur facility.

Overseas Subsidiaries GI EuropeLocated in Netherlands, the wholly-owned subsidiary of Bombay Rayon offers the customers the advantage of latest design trends in the European markets.GI in the U.K.Along with importing goods for the U. K. market, the subsidiary, DPJ Clothing Ltd. supplies goods on LDP (landed Duty Paid) basis to high street retailers in U.K. and offers the customers the advantage of latest design trends globally.

NEW TIE UPS :

1.Acquisition of Garment Business of Leela Scottish Lace (P) Ltd.

Highlights of Leela Lace Garment business

Established Garment Manufacturer and Exporter for over 30 years Export of Garments to US Customers like Wal-Mart Store Inc., The GAP, Banana Republic, Ann Taylor Abercombie and Fitch Trading Co etc. 16 factories at different locations at Bangalore, Chennai, Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi Over 16,000 workers Capacity of more than 50,000 pieces per day Export of Rs. 380 crores for FY07 with EBIDTA of Rs. 40 crores

Total consideration of Rs. 155 crores for acquiring Garment Business funded through Equity of Rs. 38.75 crores from GI & Term Loan of Rs. 116.25 crores from EXIM Bank of India.

Opportunities for the Group to cater all segments of Garments with expanded capacities and new facilities.

2.Acquired the garment manufacturing unit LNJ Apparel of RSWM Ltd

Acquired the garment manufacturing unit LNJ Apparel of RSWM Ltd, an LNJ Bhilwara group company for Rs 255 million in October 2007.

The unit is located at Bangalore having capacity of 800 pieces of garments (casual and formal trousers).

3.Acquired Garment Business of Maryan Apparels Private Limited

Acquired the garment unit of the Company for Rs. 147.40 million in March 2008.

The unit is located in Trivendram, having a manufacturing capacity of 5,000 pieces per day.

ADDITIONAL UNITS :

Setting up of the largest textile weaving, processing and garmenting facility under a special MOU signed with the government of Maharashtra with an investment of USD 250 million.The project entails: million metres per day capacity textile mill to be operational by Oct. 2008Setting up of garment manufacturing facility with a capacity of 50,000 pieces per day.This mill will enable the group to achieve economies of scale which will compete with the Chinese prices.GIs capacity (Post expansion)Fabric - 0.7million metres per dayGarments - 1,50,000 pieces per day

TAKING OVER OF BRAND GURU & RETAIL BUSINESS :

In April, 2008, the Company has taken over the Brand Guru an d other retail business of Jam Session Holding S.r.l (Jam) through GI Italia S.r.l. (GI Italia), a company promoted by GI Europe B.V, a wholly owned subsidiary of Bombay Rayon Retail Limited. The holding Company of these Companies is Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited. Guru has 15 retail stores/outlets and 9 franchises spread all over Europe mainly in Spain, Italy, Netherlands and in Dubai. The trade Mark GURU is a reGIstered trade mark in Italy and other countries including India. GURU is an established up market Retail Brand with substantial goodwill. The total consideration of the taking over of Business is 33 millions by exercising the Call/Put option within 42 months & till then GI operates the Business on Lease basis.

CompliancesSocial ComplianceCorporations do not create a team. Its a good team that creates a good corporation. At Bombay Rayon fully realize this fact and provide the team with the best working and social environment. From a creatively inclined office to an eco-sensitive manufacturing infrastructure, Bombay Rayon adhere to the highest international standards by using eco-friendly dyes and chemicals that ensure welfare of consumers and sanctity of the environment.Environmental ComplianceThe Doddaballapur unit has a 100% zero discharge effluent treatment plant based on the distillation principle, strictly within the most stringent pollution control norms specified by the state and the central government. All the fabric dyeing, garment dyeing, washing and chemical treatment facilities are OEKOTEX compliant making the unit a completely GREEN PROJECT.Quality ControlThe stringent quality assurance measures taken by the company include thorough checking of all raw material and other inputs right down to finished goods. Statistical methods identify and analyze areas of improvement, experienced manpower ensures adherence to the highest quality and creation of database provides for future reference and analysis. Every division is well equipped with up-to-date quality checking and testing equipment, reiterating the companys philosophy of providing quality products to the customers at all times.Life at GIGI realize that only by employing the best people it can produce outstanding products of the highest quality and provide first class service. It is not enough, however, to simply recruit the best, GI recognize that it must provide a professional, ethical working environment that GIves equal opportunity for all and facilitates continued training and personal development.GI is committed to: Assisting employees to develop their skills and knowledge. Recognizing and rewarding performance. Promoting equality of opportunity with absolute intolerance of discrimination, victimization or harassment. Providing a workplace that adheres to strict health and safety practices and operating in an environmentally-responsible manner. GI emphasize on conducting and maintaining relationships with their customers and employees in an honest, open and trustworthy manner.

Clients LIZ CLAIRBORNE USA DKNY USA ENYCE USA KELLWOOD USA ROCAWEAR USA VF CORPORATION USA & EUROPE H & M STORES EUROPE C & A EUROPE ZARA EUROPE CHARLES VOEGELE EUROPE GEORGE UK DEBENHAMS UK NEXT UK BURTONS UK TOPMAN UK REPLAY & SONS ITALY KIABI STORES FRANCE TOM TAILOR GERMANY COLINS JEANS TURKEY CARREFOUR FRANCE TESCO UK GAPINC USA GURU ITALY GAS ITALY MARK & SPENCER UK REEBOK USA JACK & JONES EUROPE ONLYEUROPE OYSHOEUROPE SPRING FIELD PROMOD BIAGGINNI WAL MART BHS MUDO COLUMBIA LEE COOPER PANTALOONS

Process flow of company

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

At B.R.F.L, the merchandising can be divided in two parts:1. Marketing Merchandising1. Product Merchandising MARKETING MERCHANDISINGMain functions of marketing merchandising are:1. Product development1. Costing 1. Getting Purchase OrdersIt brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a direct access to the Buyer.PRODUCT MERCHANDISINGThis is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample onwards, the product merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment.For each style the related merchandiser maintains a package file.

WORKING PROCEDURE

1. Buyer contact B.R.F.L with style detail and price at which the garment is required.2. CONSUMPTION: The merchandiser takes the style to the master and in his consultation the consumption of the fabric and trims is decided.3. COSTING: Merchandiser does the costing as follows: Fabric cost: Fabric consumption x Fabric cost. Trim cost: Trims item quantity x Trims cost. Total material cost: Fabric cost + Trims cost. Add 5% extra for finance and handling, add cut make pack charges. Total FOB = Total material cost + 5 % for finance and handling + CMP charges.

4. LEAD TIME: Lead time of 90 days is taken from the order confirmation. The fabrics are all imported and so 60 days to be in housed. 30 days for fabric manufacturing and 30 days for shipment of fabric. The production time is also kept in mind and delivery date is fixed by the buyer.5. ORDER CONFIRMATION: The FOB is quoted to the buyer along with the delivery date and if it is convenient for the buyer the order is confirmed. The quantity to be made and the color required are decided upon.6. BILL OF MATERIAL: The merchandiser prepares the purchase requisition or BOM for the order and the purchase department orders for the materials within 48 hours of receiving the BOM. The material may be from two sources: a. Nominated Suppliers. b. Non Nominated Supplier. If the material are purchased from non-nominated suppliers it is necessary to go through procedure like sample making and approval from merchandiser, price quoting for fabric, final price decision and color and quantity decision. Test requirement for the fabric and trims required by the buyer are mostly verified by the suppliers itself.7. SAMPLING: Parallel after order confirmation the merchandiser handover the sampling section for making the proto sample with substitute fabric and trims. After its approval the PP samples (pre production) is made with the exact trims and fabric.8. PRODUCTION DETAIL: Once the production begins the merchandiser follows up the garment manufacture and communicates any changes required by the buyer to the factory. After production and shipment of the order the merchandiser must communicate the details like time of departure of the ship, reaching time and custom clearance document to the buyer.

Records And Formats Maintained In The Merchandising DepartmentS.No.FORMAT /DOCUMENT NAMEPURPOSE OF USE

1Sample Evaluation reportThis report is maintained for all the samples evaluated and inspected by the merchandisers. It has the records of all the comments and changes suggested.

2Internal Approval Swatch CardThis is a general Swatch Card which is used to attach the fabrics used for the styles and orders after their approvals from the buyers. There are three swath cards from the fabric are maintained from three places in the fabric roll.

3Sales Order DocumentationThe merchandisers maintain a record of all the sales orders raised for the procurement of all the materials for the order. One of the most important job of the merchandiser is to follow up the status of the materials which have been ordered, to ensure the timely availability of the materials to the production.

4Consumption confirmation chartThis chart is made by taking the consumption details from the sampling department for all the sizes in the style of the order. These consumption details are obtained from the CAD markers. The consumption is in terms of Kg. of fabric required for all the fabric types in the garment.

5Material RequisitionThis format is filled up by the merchandiser and sent to the fabric stores for requesting material for sample development. If the material is not available, the fabric sourcing team is informed the quantity and quality required.

6Sampling Job Order.This is a formal order raised to the Sampling department instructing the quantity and types of samples to be made for the styles. The tentative dates for sample preparation are also mentioned and the reference numbers for al the Technical Folders is mentioned.

7Minutes of Order Clarity MeetingThe Head Merchandiser conducts an Order Clarity Meeting. Here all the details of the order booked are provided to the Factory. The OCM minutes are maintained by each merchandiser for future reference in case of some discrepancies arising in between the merchants and the factory. ( i.e. Production related departments)

8Delivery Challan (D.C.)The merchandising delivers the samples made to the buyers representatives. For the same purpose, a DC is made in which is listed the details of the order no., style no., no. of garments and color. This is a formal procedure for transferring goods from one place to another.

9Garment hangtagsAll the hangtags required in the garment are maintained by the merchandiser as a separate file. They are the ones which come in the company for the sampling procedure and the order is placed only after their approval.

10Inter office MemoThis is a common document used by every department. In cases where some communication needs to be made to other departments, the sheets are manually written and carried by the Office Assistant.

11Sampling cost sheetThe costs incurred while sampling is maintained in this document.

Formats And Materials Received By The Merchandising DepartmentS.NoFORMAT/MATERIALPURPOSE OF USE

1Size set and pilot run reports.

The size set and pilot run reports deal with all the points worth listing for the garment. This includes the measurement details for all the parameters as well as the quality tests according to the buyers requirements.

2Tech Packs

The Tech packs are the guidelines provided by the buyer for the garment construction and raw material sourcing. As already stated in the details of the Technical Folder, all the information can be obtained from this. It is provided by the buyer to the merchandiser.

3Purchase orders

Purchase orders are a formal announcement of the order booked by the merchandiser for the factory. This has all the details of the order quantity, shipment dates and destination. The style numbers, item numbers and the Movex numbers are mentioned by the company.

4Buyer OriGInal Samples

The samples which are used as the reference for constructing samples by the company are provided by the buyer. The sourcing team also works out the fabric details and the finish of the garment from the samples.

5Customer Complaint Details

The merchandiser maintains the complaint details for every sample and every order dispatched coming under his buyer.

6Shipment details

The dates, mode of shipment, mode of payment, Letter of Credit details and destination of shipment are provided to the merchandiser by the Dispatch department.

7Sampling Development file

The sample department maintains this file and sends the copies to the merchandiser concerned.

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

Process Flow of Production Planning Department

PLANNING DEPARTMENT

PLANNING BOARD

ORDER STATUS

FILE RELEASE TO FACTORY

PRODUCTION

SHIPMENT

PAYMENT

Introduction Production planning and control department plans for a new style. The plan for which the order goes to which factory is decided in the head office by means of a master plan considering the following: 1. The production order. 2. Various styles and sizes. 3. The delivery date of the order. 4. The number of machine available for production. 5. Types of machine required. 6. Efficiency of the unit. 7. Storage capacity of the unit. First the files prepared by merchants in the head office are sending to suitable factory. Planning department also checks if all the input such as fabric, sewing trims, and packing trims are in place and send to factory.

WORKING PROCEDURE Receive the production order from head office and check the delivery date. Check the fabric and trims status (whether in-house or not). Sample study and pattern check take print and embroidery approval if any and ensure ready patterns are made. Check for any abnormality of fabric and trims and list the precautions to be taken while cutting and sewing. Communicate the urgency of the order and the precautionary measures to all concerned through the pre-production meeting. Issues a weekly cut plan to the cutting department considering 75% of GSD target. Ensure that the cutting is as per the plan and the embroidered and printed parts are completed and arrive to the unit in time. The loading plan is prepared for production which decides the batches in which style is to be loaded. Finally garments are packed according to the buyer needs and send for shipment. The plan for which the order goes to which factory is decided in the head office by means of a master plan considering the following: 1. The production order. 2. Various styles and sizes. 3. The delivery date of the order. 4. The number of machine available for production. 5. Types of machine required. 6. Efficiency of the unit. 7. Storage capacity of the unit. First the files prepared by merchants in the head office are sending to suitable factory. Planning department also checks if all the input such as fabric, sewing trims, and packing trims are in place and send to factory.

MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT

INTRODUCTION Maintenance department is responsible for maintaining all electrical and mechanical system. Maintenance department maintain all wires, motors, iron tables, fusing machine, sewing machine, cutting machine, spot wash, snap fastness, air compressor etc.FUNCTION OF THE MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT Regular scheduling. Sewing of machine. Checking of boiler for steam. Electricity supply-starting the generator during power off. Machine oil changes once every 3months. Motor blowing and cleaning. Replacement of the defective parts. Suggesting new work aids and attachments.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE IN SEWING MACHINEROUTINE: General cleaning of machine. Broken needle replacement. Machine has to be properly covered.MONTHLY: Cleaning of machine. Oil to be filtered and refilled and oil level to be checked. Lubrication system checking. Machine stand, bolts to be checked and tightened. Belt tension to be checked and adjusted.

QUARTERLY: Thread stand/bobbin winder/belt guard to be checked. Motor bearing to be lubricated. Clutch liner to be checked. Switch or starters to be checked. Oil to be checked.

CUTTING MACHINE

ROUTINE: Lubricating oil cup. Cleaning the machine or knife.FORTNIGHTLY: Lubricating bearing. Motor part inside cleaning. Checking capacitor connection.

BAND KNIFE:

ROUTINE: Lubrication of oil monthly. Motor belt tension to be checked. Motor cleaning and bearing lubrication. Sharpened device to be checked. Screw shaft greasing to be done.

FUSING MACHINE

ROUTINE: Convey belt-removing paste residue.MONTHLY: Tension spring to be checked. Filter or regulator check water level. Chain- checks lubrication. Roller shaft bearing to be lubricated. Air cylinder-valves to be lubricated.

FINISHING MACHINE

STEAM IRON BOX:WEEKLY: Check steam flow. Check micro switch function. Check steam hose connection. Check thermostat function.IRON TABLE:MONTHLY: Lubrication for motor bearing. Check impeller tightness. Check table foam or cloth etc.HALF YEARLY: Motor inside to be cleaned. Table foam and cloth to be replaced.

STAIN REMOVING MACHINE:MONTHLY: Spray gun to be checked. Vacuum motor inserted to be checked with blower. Compressor to be checked.OPERATOR RESPONSIBILITIES (MORNING) Clean the machine and table using waste fabric. Check the needle is straight and the needle point is good. Check the threading of machine and bobbin tension. Sew on waste fabric and check for SPI and for proper stitch formation.EVENING: Clean the machine, feed dog, pressure foot, thread stand , bobbin case holder, needle bar, pressure foot bar etc. Check the oil reservoir for oil level and foreign material. Place piece of fabric under pressure foot. Cover the machine head.

Unit -9

Centralized ware houseg. Printing1. sampling2. canteen

HrdGn off.CanteenCruchHospitalToiletsBoiler room

Centralized cutting unit

ParkingGarden

Embroidery finishing washing

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Process Flow Chart of Sampling Department

Technical Team

Receive Tech pack and sample from the merchant

File and sample study in order to simplify the style, the same will be discussed with the buyer technician.

After study the file will be issued to pattern department with shrinkage analysis.

Pattern cross check with file/sample than programmed BRFL went to cutting.

Online Audit

Before Wash Checking (visual/spec)

After wash checking visual /spec and wash standard BRFLven by concern merchant.

After sample evaluation/ passed required will be send to merchant after external audit.

Sample offer to external technician with pattern file/counter sample and internal audit report, sample passed handover to merchant.

IntroductionPURPOSE OF SAMPLING Procurement of order. Order confirmation. Final look of the garment. For knowing the critical areas. For knowing the cost of production. Operations required. Machines required. Work aids and attachment required. No of workers required. Accessories required.Process Of Sampling Department1. PROCESS OF RECEIVING INDENT: On receipt of indent long on to sample status report with following information: Buyer name, Style number, PO number, Description, Fabrication information, Size required, Quantity required, Style type, Committed date based on type of sample and wash, Washing, EMB, print details, Technical manager responsibility, Actual sent date. G.I counter sample together with relevant comments as well as set of fabric, trims and approved wash standard must be submitted from marketing. Trims will be cross check against buyers PDM, fabric will be measured for sufficiency against number of pieces requested. For all wash programs the shrinkage will be tested from Technical department marked 50*50 cm on the fabric, based on the recipe/wash standard provided by the merchant and the same shall be forwarded to pattern department. Sample exit date will be advised based on standard lead-time including pattern corrections. 5 working days for non-wash, 6 working days for non-wash EMB and screen-print, 7 working days for non-wash and wrinkle free process, 9 working days for over dye program. Indent along with previous/pinned sample will be passed to pattern department for correction after technical manager and I.E evaluation.2. PRE-SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS AND ACTIVITIES: Technical manager will in tract with patter department for correct comments incorporating. Technical manager will check patterns before cutting activities and any inaccuracies will be confirmed with pattern department. Super-imposed pattern will be crossed checked with GIven comments by the buyer. Fabric handling and matching parameters will be confirmed from marketing to technical manager. Fusing test and shrinkage is conducted on each fabric so accurate tolerance can be added to the patterns. Fusing test report and iron shrinkage test will be tested within in-house machine facility and the end result will be incorporated on the net pattern. For all non-wash programs iron shrinkage is performed.3. CUTTING: Sample indent enclosed with size information, quantity and fabric color with face side approval will be provided to refer in prior to cutting. Pre sample meeting with technical manager will be done in presence of cutters and cutting in-charge. Pre-sample meeting format will be filled by the technical manager with the required details for cutting on cut direction, matching parameters. Cutting can only be done after technical manager will explain to cutting in charge about the style. Style required EMB and screen print must be cut and sent for EMB and screen print unit. Clear understanding of GIven information is confirmed in the indent file by cutting in charge.

4. SAMPLE MAKING: Pre sample meeting must be held from technical manager with sewing supervisor before sewing activities can start. Clear understanding of GIven information is confirmed in the indent file by sewing supervisor. Sample inline inspection will be audited by internal quality auditor on the semi finished /assembled garment for construction/sewing quality in presence of sewing supervisor.5. INTERNAL QUALITY AUDIT PROCESS: Internal quality auditors will join the pre sample meeting along with the technical manager and sewing supervisor to ensure the points discussed are followed in the line. Inline inspection will be conducted to ensure the finished garments from the sewing line are correct for construction and specified as per the pattern specification provided. Garments finished from sewing will be reviewed for initial sewing quality audit. Before iron/pressing samples evaluation will be audited and recorded. Finished garments will be passed on to finishing department for trimming extra threads, removing the stains on the garments. Garments will be passed to pressing section for ironing/pressing with instructions from concerned technical manager. For all wash programs before wash specification will be evaluated and sent for pressing/ironing as per the required standard. The pressed garments will be again evaluated against the buyer specifications. Finally the finished garments will be packed and kept ready for buyer quality auditor for review. The finished sample shall be offered to buyer Q/A with the sample file, super imposed patterns, garment review sheet along with the wash standard, recipe and shrinkage information. The reviewed sample will be packed enclosing the pinned sample/buyer sloper if applicable, tracing, nested copy if required, sample evaluation chart and top review sheet forwarded to concerned merchants.

6. FINISHING: Finished garments will be taken for trimming extra threads and removing the stains on the garments. Pressing the garments will be done on the instruction provided by the technical manager. Kaja button, snaps, buttonhole etc will be processed on the garment by referring the marks on the pattern for placement. Buttoning, snaps will be as per the quality provided by the buyer technical pack concerned the technical manager for quality and quantity requirements.7. TECHNICAL MANAGERS ATTENDING PPM IN FACTORIES: Technical manager will attend pre production meeting (PPM) in the factories explaining the process involved while developing sample section. Detailing about fabric nature and providing required information about the fabric, advising the fabric lay procedure. For all wash programs will explain the usage of shrinkage patterns based on the shrinkage information available. Discussing cutting parameters based on the buyer standard requirements and nature of the fabric. Advising interlining placement and fusing parameters required as per the standard approved. Trims usage on the garments will be advised for placement and usage after/before wash. Thread size/ticket information, needle size, SPI and placement will be explained based on the buyers standard and nature of the fabric. Explaining sewing seam allowance and discussing on special operation like feed off arm, French seam and blind hem. Explaining quality standards as per buyer standard. Explaining about HOW TO MEASURE with the buyer manual available. Explaining pressing/ironing standards based on buyer standards.8. G.I SEWING TECH PACK PREPARATION: Factory tech packs will be prepared with listing out the below mentioned activities briefly. Technical specification with the three dimension digitals of the sample will be enclosed. Cutting instruction with details of bundling information. Quality audit diagram Giving details on checkpoint for quality audits. Trims/accessory placement details. Operation bulleting, listing out the various types of operation, thread quality, seam allowance, SPI, needle size and comments to follow. Parts and attachment specifications with the digital of machinery attachment listing out the required operation for using this attachment.9. G.I EMBROIDERY TECH PACK PREPARATION: Technical specification for embroidery in detail with thread quality, color and consumption will be enclosed. Handling information will be provided. Check list to confirm embroidery design. Design drawing is enclosed. Placement will be directly embossed on the patterns.

Types of Samples 1. PROTO SAMPLES: Samples made with substitute fabric and trims.2. FIT AND DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE: Usually consist of certain change in the construction and design as per buyers needs.3. PRE- PRODUCTION SAMPLE: Three sample of a basic size are made with the exact fabric and trims.4. SIZE SET SAMPLE: Sample in various size required are made for approval in actual fabric and trims.5. SALES MAN SAMPLE: These samples are made with actual fabric and trims to judge the saleable value of the order.6. QUALITY REFERENCE: Sample verified by the quality manager or a buyer QC to be used as a reference during production. Often the buyers ask for only proto samples approved and the pre- production sample directly after which the bulk production begins.

Documents Maintained Daily sampling program. Pattern marker daily report. Cutters report. Individual tailor report. Daily sampling status. Weekly sampling status. Daily pattern status. Weekly pattern status.Centralized ware house

All units of Bombay rayon fashion limited in Bangalore receives fabric and trims from CWH.

Fabric ware house

Fabric store is controlled by the fabric manager who is responsible for all fabric in house by time at the same width which merchandiser demands. There is one field supervisor who looks after for all printing and dying operations. He is supposed to visit all suppliers for timely and adequate delivery. The job responsibility of supervisor is to get target of checking fabric achieved by checkers. Clerks are to keep all records regarding width, price, fabric in house date, and demand note and day wise details of fabric.Location system of storage is followed. Fabric packages are stored in two areas: (a) Checked Fabric and (b) Unchecked Fabric.

Fabric ware house in unit -9 is a centralized ware house. All units of Bombay rayon fashion limited getting fabric from CWH. They have Hugh capacity for fabric storage, around 40 lakh meter fabric. Their total Storage area=60,000 sq. feet. They have handling capacity of around 16 lakh meter fabric per day.

Racks for rejected and hold fabric toilet

Overlock machines

Marking for shrinkageShade grouping

Inspection 6 machines

Inspection table

stairsoffice

Inspectionines-4 mac

fabricTrims and fusing

PROCESS FLOW CHART

passfail

SHRINKAGE SUPERVISORASSISTANT MANGER

Functions of Fabric StoreThe basic functions of the fabric store are: Receive the fabric Quality assessment Issue fabric Receive the fabric-Fabric store get the p.o order information regarding to the incoming fabric from merchandiser. During fabric reception they need following documents from supplier side-1. supplier D.C - quantity2. P.O copy-to verifies description. color 3. Transport copyAfter verification regarding to quantity and description, these items are to be stored separately in specified racks after entering these items in the Stage software and prepare necessary Goods Receipt Note. Inform shortages / Excess quantity received to Merchandiser Department concerned for necessary action. If the supply exceeds 105 % of the order quantity, organize to return the excess quantity to the Supplier. It is the responsibility of fabric stores in-charge to store the fabric safely & correctly. The fabric stores in charge records every day fabric stock in Fabric Stock ReGIster.After verification they inform quality team .so further process carried out by quality department before permanent storage of fabric.Senior manager responsibilities - Maintain Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production. Maintain Storage of dead stock. Maintain basic stock. Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department. Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting Department. Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric and no shortage.

Quality assessment-After fabric reception, quality department start their work. First quality department perform following tasks-1. shrinkage report2. Inspection3. Shade group report

Shrinkage report-The Fabric QA dept. supplies the fabric for shrinkage check. For shrinkage they goes for 100% shrinkage checking. So, they send fabric bit from each roll. The fabric bit (1 bit) =60*60 cm. Then on that they mark 50*50 send it to washing dept. in washing the real shrinkage measure. Shrinkage in charge prepares the report and submits to QA manger. These reports goes to the sewing quality manger for shrinkage group decision.Sewing quality manager decides that which shrinkage roll comes in same shrinkage group and each shrinkage group keep one pattern.After receiving shrinkage group report they submit same report to paten master and cutting department. Pattern master prepare the patterns according to these report only .And issue to cutting department according to these report only.

1. Inspection- The Fabric received are to be checked to find defects, shades and width variations using 4 Point system by using the Fabric checking machine or Table. As far as possible avoid use of Tables for checking. Display the various types of defects for easy reference of the Checker. The acceptance criteria for various fabrics like Mill made , Power Loom and Hand Loom vary and hence use the right criteria ( points ) as specified by Buyer / Fabric Department. A minimum of 10 % of the Rolls (Random selection) are to be checked. If the defect level exceeds the allowed limit, 100 % of the Rolls may be inspected after getting approval from concerned. Display Fabric defect standards (clearly marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable) and the criteria points per sq. yard / meters for passing the rolls / bales as accepted or rejected.In case, the Fabric rolls / bales gets rejected ( for reasons of defects, shade variation, shrinkage variation more than allowed limits ) they hold the fabric until they dont get approval from merchandiser .If merchandiser reject than they store the fabric in the specified rack marked Rejected Items. Follow the procedure, laid out for returning the rejected items to the Supplier. Raise the Goods Inspection Note for the passed items as specified. Store the Fabric with proper Identification Tag (containing details like P.O. No., date of receipt, Delivery note no., quantity received, number of rolls / bales, Shade details , Type of Fabric, Supplier details etc.). Office records should record the Rack number, where the item is stored for easy trace ability.Single item should be kept in single rack location and never mix up fabrics of different O.C.s / P.O.s.Prepare Report in specified format and send it to the concerned (like Fabric Department, Marketing Department etc.). In case of deviation / short supply, highlight it, to take necessary action.

Fault SizePoint AssignedSticker color

0 to 3 inches1Yellow

3 to 6 inches2Green

6 to 9 inches3Blue

9 & above4Red

Acceptance/rejection of fabricPenalty points found per 100 meterAction

40 points in power loom fabricAccept the lot

30 points in mill-made and imported fabricAccept the lot

40 60 points in power-loom fabricSubstandard lot

More than 30 points in mill-made & in imported fabricRejection of lot

More than 60 points in power-loom fabricRejection of lot

Common fabric defects:Weaving defects Missing picks End out Mixed filling Mixed ends Dropped pick Slubs Yarn distortion Weft bar Pattern fault Dobby faults Stop marks Smash Holes, etc.

Dyeing/printing/finishing defects Bowing Color Bleeding Puckering Stains Skewed or biased Selvedge variation Scrimp etc.

Samples For Shade Band

Cut approximately 7 inches x 3 inches samples from each roll. Write the Roll no./ Bale no. in each sample along with O.C. No./ P.O. No., supplier, date of receipt , width etc. Mark grain direction. Make shade band of the Rolls received and accepted. Similarly make 4 to 6 sets of shade Bands for distribution as specified to Marketing and Factories. Marketing department will take it up with the Fabric Manager / Buyers Representative and provide the shade category (like shade A, shade B etc). Use Light Box with specified Light for shade segregation. If any center to selvedge shade variation problem occurs, such rolls are marked separately and should be advised to the CAD and Cutting section for revised Pattern Layout

2. Issue material to CCU or other units After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is GIven. After this the sub store in-charge receives the Fabric Width and Shade Report. Thus according to the various shades, the fabrics are separated shade wise. Then the merchandiser sends the Lab Test Report and Shrinkage Report. This contains the results of the tests that are carried out in the unit lab. Next the in-charge receives the Fabric Quality Inspection Summary. This contains the inspection details of the fabric. This report also shows the status of the fabric. The in-charge then receives the Mini Marker from the merchandiser. This is also called the YY Sheet. This sheet contains the quantity of fabric required per garment (yy = meters/garment). Based on this the in-charge prepares a chart. This chart contains the fabric details (Swatch, Color, Order Quantity and the quantity required). The in-charge calculates the quantity of fabric required after adding the waste percentage. 2 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 3 % is added for the rejection of garments. Hence, a total of 5 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores. This chart is sent to the merchandiser and the required quantity of the fabric is ordered.

Storing and Issue to Factories

Based on the above information from Lab and Marketing, it is preferable to segregate the Rolls / Bales in various Shades and Group Shrinkage percentage wise and store them in the specified Racks with proper Identification Tag. This procedure is useful to avoid mix-up of various shades and shrinkage bands. The stores register should contain all the relevant details along with the Rack no, (where it is stored). While issuing to Production, issue as per shade band and shrinkage segregation wise. Issue the Shade band along with the materials to Factories.

TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES STORE

storage racks,buyer wise

Inspection areaInspection area

Rcived goods

Recieving

office

tolietdgmtSecu-rity

PROCESS FLOW CHART OF TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES DEPARTMENy

Process Flow Chart of Trims Store

TRIMS RECEIVEDPHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF TRIMS10% QUALITY AUDIT100%INSPECTION IF AUDIT FAILSSTORAGE OF INCOMING GOODSSTORAGE OF TRIMS IN APPROPRIATE RACKS ISSUE TO BATCHES

IntroductionFunction of the stores Proper stocking of all the trims and accessories received and maintaining the inward and outward register. 100% physical inspection. Taking approval from the merchandiser of the trims received. Follow up of the balance material required for particular style feature. Dispatch the accessories required for production to the trims without delay.Procedure:All the Trims like, Zippers, Buttons, Snaps, various types of Labels, Threads, Tapes, Draw cords, Elastics, D Rings are to be checked at the receiving point for Quantity & Quality. This has to be done O.C. # / P.O. # wise and item wise. Allot area for Incoming Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. Incoming goods to be stored here. Allot area for Inspected O.K. Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. All inspected & accepted goods to be stored here. Allot area for Rejected goods (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here and to be disposed off as per instructions. Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Table with White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux. Allot area for Return to Supplier. In case of excess material receipt, the excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. In case, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted separately as per instructions. ) Display approved Trim Cards, AQL chart, Other Instructions etc in the Display Board provided. All incoming Trims must be - 10 % (or AQL 2.5 or as specified) (Random selection) - checked. If the items fail during Audit, 100 % of the items to be audited. Results to be recorded in the concerned Formats and circulated to the specified staff for necessary action.

Trims inspection:1. Quantity check: Compare the Receipt quantity with the Order quantity and ensure that is O.K. If there is any deviation, please take it up with the concerned for necessary action.2. Visual check: Check the items for shade, color, Type, Style, write up etc., as per Specification sheet. If required, wash the appropriate Trims as per specification to see that shade variation, bleeding do not take place. In case of deviation, take it up with the concerned for necessary action.3. Measurement check: Check the items for measurement to ensure they confirm to specification. 4. After ensuring that everything is O.K., make the Trim Card in specified sets and get it approved by concerned merchandising Staff and issue it to the concerned.5. Issue the materials to the Factory concerned as per O.C. / P.O. copy and as specified along with Trim Card. Trims store in the factory:

Trims and Accessories Stores at Factories have to make the Quantity check for all the Items they receive from the Main - Trims & Accessories Stores. Copies of the Test results are to be received from the Main Stores along with the consignment for reference. In case, the Tests are not conducted at the Mains stores, Factory should organize for all the necessary tests and keep the records for reference. First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains various details such as the Sample Date, Prototype Sample, Order chart, RMR. The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This report GIves the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered, the qty received and the balance left to receive. When the trims are received, the unit checks them and makes an Inward Challan. 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations. The trims store head maintains a Daily Status Report of the trims that are issued from the main store and the balance left yet to receive. This is maintained for the internal reference of the trims store. The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself. Hence, when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the production at the trims store. However, for buttons counting is done. Inspection is done in case of Labels and Shrinkage test for Elastic. Only 1 roll or 1 box in the whole quantity of the labels received is inspected. Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages. If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more defects are found, then another 100 are checked. In this 100 again if 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more than 5 defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected. In case of 100 labels, 40 defective are acceptable. 50 are unacceptable. And 40-50 are in the decision making process. The rejected in then sent back to the main store. If the trims are accepted they are then issued t the production line.

For Elastic, the shrinkage test is carried out by the trims store: In this they measure 1m of the elastic and mark it. This elastic is then dipped in water for 15-20 mins. It is then dried naturally. Then the elastic are measured again. Then the shrinkage is calculated using the formula: Shrinkage (%) = [After wash Before wash)/before wash] *100 The report is made and sent to the merchandiser. The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart following details are present Fabric swatch, matching thread for the fabric, fabric color, fabric code, Button, Button matching thread This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are then approved from the buyer and signed.

Cutting Department (Centralized Cutting Department)-

Cutting department in unit -9 responsible to distribute cutting to all sewing units in Bangalore CCU is spread over 9100 square meter area and having the capacity of around 1 lakh pieces cutting capacity.

Their cutting section having all the latest technology mentioned in given list.They follows both methods automatic (checks) as well as manual(solid shade fabric and lining fabric

officeCad dpt

Pin tables

Quality chrcking

Automatic spreading and cutting m/c

Relaying tables

fabric

Manual sprading and cutting

Manual spreading and cutting

Bundling abd sorting

dispatch

Process Flow Chart of Cutting Department

MARKER PLANNINGMARKER CHECKINGFABRIC REQUISITION & RECEIVALLAYINGMARKER MAKINGQUALITY AUDITLAY RELAXATIONMANUAL MARKINGNAMING OF PANELSCUTTINGQUALITY AUDITSOBAR NUMBERING

Functions: To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining according to the PO Getting the markers made from the CAD Checking the patterns with the actual patterns Draw manual markers Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan Laying the fabric Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with the cut panels on the right time Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels Returning the remnant roll to the stores Maintaining the records Checking the quality of the cut panels

The work for cutting department starts right from the point of order confirmation. The CAD department prepares the marker length using the pattern and the sample prepared by the Sampling Department. It also makes estimation for the consumption of the fabric for that particular order. The results then communicated to merchandiser. Once the order gets confirmed for bulk production then first they cut the garment component for the pilot run. Once it is over then the Cutting, The IED, Sewing, and Planning Department sits together to decide the no. of pieces to be cut and supplied in advance, in accordance with the productivity derived for that style from the pilot run.The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures the fabric then the fabric issued to the spreader is properly laid according to the specified marker length and width. The number of piles depends upon the type of Fabric, its thickness, cutting method and the desired height of lay. The no. of plies also depends on type of fabric and weight. After the fabric is laid QC checks the lay for the defects like Leaning, alignment, Uneven Tension, Narrow goods, and other fabric defects. Then the marker is spread on the top of the lay. Stickers including all the details as PO no, cut no, style no, part name, part number and sizes is affixed on the top of the lay of all individual parts. Before cutting the last inspection of lay has been done to check that the marker is coming well in the lays width and length so it can properly cut. Cutting room is one of the core areas in any garment organization. As a unit cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing cost than any other department concerned with the actual production of garments.

Documents and Reports Maintained In The Cutting Section:

1. Cutting chart2. Mini marker3. Fabric requisition slip4. Table plan5. Misusing register6. Lay slip7. Lay order report8. Spreading quality report9. Cutting quality report10. Hourly report of numbering11. Hourly report of fusing12. Re-cutting register13. Hourly report of sorting and bundling14. Cut parts issue register15. Parts bank (cut panels)16. Fabric completion report SORTING AND BUNDLING:The role of Sorting Department in the Factory is to coordinate and facilitate production in the Sewing Department. After cutting sorting takes place where numbered stickers are put on all parts of the garment according to the lays i.e. all cut parts from one Lay are GIven one number. Sorting Department is labor intensive since the work involves selection and bundling requires human discretion. The process is bundling where all cut parts are made in to bundles. If Fusing is required in some parts (as collar, Neckband, placket, and cuff) it takes place before bundling but after Sorting.OPERATING PROCEDURESRELAXATION OF STRETCH FABRICUnwind fabric from Roll and lay on Table / Flat area in concentric folds. . The Lay should not touch any other item and nothing should be kept on the lay which may prevent normal relaxation. The idea is to see that, stretch occurred during the time of converting into Roll form, returns to its normal condition. Generally the Rolls are wound in tight condition to save volume & space.1. Attach the Relaxation History Tag to each and every roll that is relaxed indicating the O.C. / P.O. #, Type of Fabric, Length & width of roll, Date & starting time of relation, Date and ending time of relaxation etc.2. After allowing for 24 hour relaxation, the roll is ready for Laying & Spreading. Enter the Actual Date and ending time of relaxation in the Tag.3. Lay and spread the Fabric as per Lay Slip and specification.4. Allow a minimum of 3 to 6 hours in the Spread condition as Lay Relaxation before any other operation takes place.5. Check for spreading quality. Perform the subsequent operations like Mark / lay C.A.D. Marker etc., as usual.

SIZE SORTING The cut components are sorted according to the size example: all s size is kept together and may be bundled with rags or else may be directly taken to numbering and then bundling.NUMBERING Numbering of all the component parts of the size is done starting from number one. There are specific codes for each size like S M L XL 1 2 3 4 Using a numbering machine which prints stickers with the number that is manually set and then sticks on the component. It has to be manually worked.CHECKING After numbering all parts except for those parts that have fussing are taken to the checking table for inspection. Here pieces are checked for weaving defects, stains etc. Those small parts that are having fussing are by passed this process because it is easy and less time consuming to re-cut the defective pieces. If the defects are beyond correction then they are sent for re-cutting.BUNDLING The number components are bundled and then put into poly bags according to the P.O and stored. Color bundle tickets are used for respective size. Color codification stickers are used for shrinkage percentage group on bundle ticket.

FUSING SECTIONCut Fabric Swatch with Square Template of size 12 inches x 12 inches. 1. Get the specified Interlining and cut it to size.2. Fuse the Fabric and Interlining with specified Temperature, Pressure, and Time.3. Allow for relation of the Fusing.4. Measure the size and find out the Fusing Shrinkage and record it. Inform to concerned people like Patter section for necessary action. Check for Shade variation if any due to Fusing. If you observe any shade variation, take it up with the concerned for necessary corrective action.5. Wash the Swatch as per wash program standard or as specified.6. Check the Fusing for fusing defects like Peel off, Bubbles etc. Inform the deviations / defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective action.7. Display the Swatch, Interning, and Fused swatch in the Board.Note: All the reference cards should be displayed in the concerned Display Boards and Files should be available in the concerned places. MAINTENANCE OF MACHINESAll machines used in the Cutting section like, Spreading machine, Cutting machine, Band Knife, Fusing machine etc should carry Maintenance card and Preventive Maintenance card duly filled in.General Points to be observed:The following points to be taken care of in the Cutting section:- Display SOPs in English and Local language. Display approved Garment: In case of critical styles with specific line placements, required layout of parts to be highlighted and displayed for easy reference and access to all. Fabric and Management Report: To be recorded & displayed against each O.C. / P.O. (a) all Fabric status details style / color wise, (b) Shade swatches, color standards duly approved , (c) Parts replacement % style wise. Cutting CAD Marker: - All Markers to be generated by CAD. Authenticity of the same is being confirmed by Cutting Room Auditor. Markers to be color coded in case of Multiple Pattern usage (due to variation in shrinkage). Bar Numbering: - All panels to be numbered using Bar Stickers. Color code So Baring in case of multiple pattern usage. Storage of Cut parts: - Use Flat racks for storing cut parts. Mobile cut parts storage also to be use. Use polythene bags to prevent dust and stains. Quality control: - Defined Quality control procedure in practice and record to be available. Notches on Patterns: - Process Audit to be done by Department Auditor. Cut Panel Audit :- Cutting section QA to audit all cut parts, top, middle and bottom with the oriGInal pattern and record findings and initiate corrective action as required. Cut Panel Inspection: - Cut panel inspection to be conducted in a separate area in the department. The defect standards to be displayed at this area, style wise acceptable, not acceptable clearly marked & displayed separately. Replacement of defective parts to take place from the same rolls. Record of % replacement of parts to be maintained with clear record for shade and shrinkage category. Fabric Laying / Relaxation :- Relaxation / Lay start / Lay end / Cutting start time to be record in case of stretch fabric Fabric Laying / Spreading: - Fabric laying / spreading is to be audited and recorded. Fusing setting requirement: - Fusible lining compatibility reports confirming the Temperature / Pressure / Time to be displayed along with sample. Machine Maintenance record to be displayed. Fusing Records: - Temperature setting, bonding strength to be audited and recorded 4 times per day on fixed times. The first tests to start at the start of the fusing followed at 2 Hours intervals. The days record to be available on display. It is preferable to cover all the Fabric Swatches with transparent polyethylene sheet to prevent dust etc. All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs. The Table tops to be of white laminated.

UNIT 7

Ground floor-Training centerOffice1st floor-Finishing dptGround floor-finishing1st floor-unit 7A (parts)2nd floor-unit 7A -7 Eton assembly lines3rd floor-unit 7D4th floor-canteen

gardenWATER TANK AND CHECK UP ROOMUnit -7cGround floor-finishing1st floor ,2nd floor and 3rd floor- bundle system4th floor-canteenPARKING

Groung floor-finishing1st floor-unit 7B (parts)2nd floor-unit 7b Eton assembly lines3rd floor-unit 7B parts and eton4th floor-canteenMAIN ROAD

IntroductionThe final garment comes out of a sewing department because of a set of well-coordinated steps in each of the batches. It is the most dynamic department of all. The layout, machines, batch size, no. of Batches, method of operation, no. of workers on the floor etc can get changed according to the new style, order quantity or production plan.Once the Order gets confirmed for a particular style the planning department comes in to action. It planned in well advance that which unit is going for Production as well as the Quantity. It allocates the quantity & job order to different units based on their capacity. Then the IED Department in collaboration with Factory Manager, decides the batch size, number of Batches and daily target to be achieved by the each batch. Other details such as no of stitches/inch at different areas, measurement for different sizes, placement of trims etc are finalized and standardized at the sampling stage.Function of sewing department:

The shift starts at 9:30 am in the morning. The inline quality controller checks the un-finished pieces of the garment and check against the oriGInal sample garment. The line supervisor check the hourly production of each part of the garment and also check the daily production status which have details regarding line numbers, order details, particular regarding man power and the machine available , lines expected and actual target operation target , WIP and the operator daily operation output The supervisor also ensures that necessary thread, label and tapes are available with operator. The target is hanged in each line for a particular style of a garment. The pieces are inspected carefully and then feed into line. They check the 1st ply, middle ply and last ply in a cut-piece bundle at the time of feeding or when cut pieces arrives in sewing room. The pieces are marked and notched by template for the particular operation at the time of feeding or inline process.

When major problem arises in the line during production then quality people put the check point over there for finding the reason for the problem and solving the problem.

PROCEDURE:1. SEWING ANALYSIS AND LINE PLAN: For each and every O.C/P.O, style analysis has to be made, stating the sequence of operation, sewing machine to be used, folders, attachment of presser footer etc to be used. All critical operation to be marked. Line plan shows the actual sequence of operation, number of stations for each operation or combination of operation. This will also show the marker position, iron table position, quality checking positions.2. PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE: Pre-production samples have to be made with material as specified in the O.C/P.O. These samples have to be checked for measurement, visual defects, stitching defects, shape etc.Samples are sent to the buyers representative for their comments. If the comments are major garment is re-stitched otherwise care is taken during actual production. If required patterns are modified to take care of measurement deviation and shape.3. SIZE SET/PILOT RUN: Pilot run/size set are conducted on actual sewing batches set for O.C/P.O. Pilot run quantity should be of minimum of 25 garments. During pilot all the sizes are covered. Garment is checked for measurement, visual defects, material used, fusing defects, right type of folder/attachment/presser footer usage etc. Garment is checked for shrinkage, shade variation, bleeding properties, breakage of stitches, damages to trims etc. In case of any non-conformance it is concerned immediately to avoid confusion at later stage.4. PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING: Pre-production meeting are conducted at the factory with members from buying office, factory quality section, head office quality department, cutting section, sewing section, finishing department along with plant manager and production manager to discuss how to achieve better productivity and quality during bulk production.5. JOB DESCRIPTION AND MODES: Job description and modes are made for each and every operation, including the marketing and inline ironing. Modes are prepared by the actual operators and should be approved by supervisor, mechanic and Q.A operators. Job description should contain details like name of the operators, machine used, needle used, color and type of threads used etc. After all these procedure the cut pieces are sent for bulk sewing and finished garment is the output. After sewing and garment are sent to finishing section where final finishing and packing of garment is done and it is then sent for shipment.MAINTENANCE IN SEWING SECTION Each machine has its maintenance card attached to it. Maintenance card contain the name of machine, type of machine, make of machine, details of maintenance done with date and time, details of preventive maintenance done with date and time. According to this card maintenance of machine is done at regular interval of time.

QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING SECTION All the inspection and checking area are provided with proper light and tables are white laminated. Quality control in sewing section is divided into three and they are:

1. IN-LINE PROCESS CONTROL: Following of random sampling technique method of in-line checking of all the operations are done and proper cares are taken for critical operations. Using statistical process control tools Attribute control charts are made for visual defects and Variable control l charts for measurements. These charts are monitored at regular interval and corrective actions are taken immediately.

2. END-LINE INSPECTION: All the garments are to be 100% checked at this point and necessary corrective action are taken. To enable proper checking approved garment with buyer comments are displayed. Fabric defects standards (clearly marked acceptable and not acceptable) are also displayed. A follow up card is attached on each garment which contains the details like nature of defects and remedial actions to be taken. This will ensure that the garment has to been rectified and free from defects.3. MEASUREMENT CONTROL: Measurement chart/in process measurement chart(in case of wash program),diagram showing the method of measurement ,multiple category number, shrinkage range with color coding are displayed for operator working in quality section. At least 10% of the garment produced in a day is sent for measurement check. Variable control chart are made and corrective actions are taken. Sewing supervisor, production manager and Q.As regularly see the line and batch check sheets and take necessary corrective action.

Documentation Maintained:1. Daily report consisting of: Sewing production details. Cutting details. Checking and packing order. Status of pending order. Attendance report. QC details.2. Broken needle log book: All broken needles are collect and logged an this file. Its a compliance issue because there should be no metallic part in the garment other than trims.3. Inline checks report.4. End line checks report.5. Merchandise quality audit for stitched garment done by the QC.6. Measurement checking sheet.7. Bundle tracking record.8. Hourly production report.9. Output report to determine operator efficiency.10. Work in pending report.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Process Flow Chart of Finishing Department

BATCH RECEIVING

COUNTER CHECKING

KAJA AND BAR TACK

BUTTON MARK AND SEW

TRIMMING

MEASUREMENT CHECK

TAGBRFLNG

POLY BAG CHECKING

CARTON PACKING

IntroductionFinishing process is to check the garment for any defect and to make them appealing through pressing. Garments are check according to quality system approved by a particular buyer.AQL of 2.5 is followed for maximum buyers. Finishing is done to ensure that no defected garments are packed.PROCEDURE:KAJA AND BUTTON SECTION KAJA MARKING AND MAKING: This Section receives the sewn garments. Initially templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the marked position by the specialised machine. BUTTON MARKING AND ATTACHING: Similarly with the help of button attaching machine buttons are attached at the marked positions. BUTTON SHANK WRAPPING: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric surface. BUTTON AND KAJA CHECKING: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja section where proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any discrepancies found they are again sent back for correction. STICKER REMOVING: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they are further sent to the washing or the finishing department.

THREAD CUTTING Extra thread coming out of seam ends. Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut threads as soon as possible. As soon as button was attached the garments pieces were brought to five tables meant for the purpose of thread cutting. There were around 12 operators doing this job using the clippers. An hourly production record was maintained for the thread cutting workers. SPOTTINGStains which are not removed from the garments after washing also are removed by spotting in this process. As soon as the quality checkers comes across a defect, he brings the defective piece to the operators meant for the purpose of trouble shooting i.e. alteration and satin removal section. This section comprises of the following personnel Alteration tailors (eight in no.) for the correction of stitching defects Spot washing gun operators (eight in no.) for removal of varioustype of stains. An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is maintained. This helps in keeping a track on the quality of garments being sent to finishing by the production floor. 20-30% is normally the alteration and stain removal rate.INITIAL PRESSING

Initial pressing is done to remove the creases and to make the garment visually alike as per the required sample of the buyer. The pieces were put into iron boxes after thread-cutting activity gets over. From these boxes ironers who used to iron the seams only retrieved the pieces. The ironing machines being used for this purpose were Steam Ironing Tables with Vacuum Boards. These irons were of the make Ram sons Viet. There were two lines of six irons each on both the floor. These ironers used to steam iron the following seams: Sweep side seam sleeve hem or any other area they need to press for better checking The whole idea of this seam ironing was to facilitate the quality checkers. The ironing makes the seams visible. So, detection of any seam defects like broken stitch, open seam, loose stitches etc became quite easy. An hourly production record of seam ironers was maintained.Various Purposes of Pressing:

1. To smooth away the unwanted creases and crush marks1. To crease the garment wherever required like in collars before top stitch1. To mould the garment to the contour of the body1. To prepare the garments for further sewing (under pressing)1. To refinish the fabric after the manufacturing of the garment

Not nearly as much attention has been paid to the technology of pressing as to the technology of sewing and cutting. Some interesting points are: The percentage of total manufacturing work content in pressing is around 50%.The possibility of automation has been explored for some steam presses, but most pressing operation requires the continual intervention of human hand.

VISUAL CHECKINGChecking of all the garment is done according to required AQL. Each quality checker is provided with two baskets (one for pass pieces and the other for defective pieces), stickers for marking defects, thread clippers etc. each checker is instructed to check the garments thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if found. Every checker puts the pass piece in the plastic basket below the inspection table. It is the responsibility of the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction and after correction put it in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage could be broadly of the following types1. stitching defects1. stains1. weaving defects1. button/buttonholing defectsChecker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by him. All these checkers are GIven regular on-the-job training. Finishing in charge or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking. There are two types of production records that are maintained for these quality checkers. They are1. hourly production record1. daily production recordMEASUREMENTS CHECKINGAfter checking the garment visually, measurement of the garments is checked according to the spec sheet with the acceptable tolerance.FINAL PRESSING Final pressing is done on the garment which has no defect. Based on the ironing instructions, the supervisor GIves the instructions to the ironing operators about the correct way of ironing the garments of a particular style. It was very essential because a lot of times it is used to happen that the garments were supposed to be packed with cuff turned but they were packed with flat cuffs. The hanGIng trolleys from where the garments were retrieved for ironing and placed after ironing were ergonomically designed, keeping in mind the ironing operators movement. An hourly production record of each ironer was maintained for the purpose of keeping a track on the total production.ATTACHING PRICE TAGS AND OTHER LABEL The pass pieces are brought to the tagGIng section on the hanGIng wheeled trolleys. It was the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagGIng operators with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags. The supervisor also instructs the tagGIng operator as to where and how the tag has to be placed. After passing through all the checking and pressing process price tag is attached to the garment through tag gun. The most important thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag was to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag or ticket.

PACKAGING OF THE GARMENT After the attaching the price tag to the garment; garments are packed in the poly bags or hanged in hanger as per the buyer requirements. The packing instructions GIven by the buyers can be like type of polybag, any printing on polybag required or not, garments to be hanger packed or not, method of folding and packing the garments etc. Packed garments are packed in the cartons as per the packaGIng plan. Each cartons has specified number of garments and the quantity can neither be increased nor be decreased after its planned. It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the packed garments for the following things1. Poly bag is as per specification1. Tags and price ticket should must be visible as per specification1. Packing is secured or not1. Poly bags should not be soiled and torn1. Hangers are there or not if specified1. Garment has been folded as per specification etc.Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things were kept in mind during carton packing1. Number of garments to be packed in one carton1. Ratio asked for example M:L:XL=1:2:21. Decide on the plies and dimensions(as specified by the buyer) ofthe cardboard to be used1. Get the cartons tested for bursting strength1. Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified1. Closing the cartons with cellophane tape1. Sealing the cartons with plastic cord1. Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer'sAddress, ratio, net weight or gross weight of the carton etc.Details about the style no., PO number, size etc are mentioned above the carton box .Bar code slip is also sticked on the cartons. Each carton has its own identification over the bar code slip.RATIO PACKINGGarments are packed size-ratio wise. In this kind of packing all the sizes are packed together in a GIven ratio.Example:Size S M L XLRatio 10 20 20 10LOCATION PACKING In this kind of packaGIng, shipment is packed in parts as per the buyers requirement. This is also commonly used as shipment has to be send to different location. So an order quantity of 1, 00,000 pieces can be shipped as 20,000 to New York, 65,000 to U.K. and 15,000 to U.S.A.SOLID SIZE PACKAGING: In this packaGIng type, each carton contains one size as per buyers requirement.COLOR WISE PACKING In this type of packing, different sizes of same color are packed together in the GIven ratio.Example: If 60 garments are to be packed in a carton:Color BlueRatioSMLXL10202010OPERATING PROCEDUREThe following procedures are to be followed in the Finishing section. These are to be displayed on a Display Board kept at the Finishing section. GARMENT RECEIPT: The garments received for Finishing has to be recorded in appropriate Ledger, mentioning the O.C. / P.O. #, Color & Shade, Size, Washed or Unwashed etc. Compare with O.C. / P.O. copy and verify the Quantity and the product mix. In case of variation in quantity, size mix takes necessary action.JOB DESCRIPTION & STANDARDS Process Flow charts are displayed. Any special instructions required are to be displayed. The Display board should have approved, Garment, Trim Cards, Fold / Packing method, Fabric defect standards, wash standards, shade band, Defect % as observed in Finishing section. Ironing standards are available at the section. Standard requirements explained to all Ironers, like method of Ironing, Temperature, Steam usage, etcQUALITY CHECKS ON GARMENTSAll the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs. The Table Tops to be of White Laminated.VISUAL CHECK All the Garments to be checked for the Visual Defects related to stitching, Fabric, Trims etc. Garments which are rejected are to be rectified. Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect and the remedial action taken. This will ensure that the Garment has been rectified and free from defect. Record to be maintained for the % of garments sent for Alternation / Rectification. Similarly maintain separate record for the % of garments that underwent Spot washing. Garments after Ironing are to be checked for right type of Folding, Packing, attaching right type of Tags, Presentation, etc. Master Cartons to be checked for the right information as specified. Place Checkers/Inspectors identification mark in the garment at specified place.

MEASUREMENT CHECK All the garments to undergo measurement checks at critical points at separate are. Daily a minimum of 32 pieces to 10 % of garments to be checked for all the measurements as per Measurement chart GIven by the Buyer by roaming Q.A. Necessary corrective action to be taken for the non-conformances. Garments sent for alternation / rectifications are to be tracked by a Follow up card and record to be maintained for the Alteration %. Diagram mentioning how to measure are displayed in the Audit areas.

MINI- Q.A. CENTER The Mini- Q.A. Center: The Min-Q.A. Center should be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux lighting level. Display copy Shade band, Fabric defect standards ( clearly marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable ). Measurement chart, How to measure chart, Sewing defect standards for Puckering etc. GARMENT PACKING Packing standards duly signed by the Merchandiser / Buyers representative to be present in the area. Presentation inspections to be conducted before the garments are put into poly bags. Price Tags, Bar code tags, and other such tags to be stored in separate Pigeon hole self / box with dividers to avoid mix-up. Garments to be sorted size wise before the tags / Price tickets are fixed on to them. The first garment packed to be approving by Factory Manger / Q.A.

QUALITY AUDITSINTERNAL FINISHED GOODS AUDIT: By Factory Auditor. In small lots (say for example 200 garments) finished packed garments to be offered for final audits with the size written as a packing slip. Auditor must verify the size wise quantity and select at random samples for audit. The Audit to be done for visual as well as for measurement. The audit report is issued to the Factory management with comments and obtains their signature. In case of audit failure, this should be discussed with concerned for rectification and for preventive measure. The lot wise records of the entire audit done to be available for that particular O.C. / P.O. with corrective actions taken if any.FINAL AUDIT: By Corporate Q.A. Team. Before the Lot is offered for Inspection by Buyers representative, the lot should be offered for Audit to the Corporate Q.A. team and get approved. They should check for size wise count accuracy, carton audit, visual checks of garment & packing. They should use slightly tighter sampling plan for audit. For example, if Buyer is going to use AQL 4, the Corporate Audit team should use AQL 2.5 as their sampling plan. The Q.A should aware of the Buyers Tech.pak, Measurement charts, Packing methods, comments on samples, PP comments, Internal audit reports, before start their actual Audit. In case, the lot gets rejected, Audit to be conducted after due re-screening / rectification. REVIEW REJECTIONS Review of rejection to place with P.M./ F.M. / Q.A. for taking necessary corrective action from time to time.ORGANIZATION OF A Q.A. TEAM The Q.A. Team has well trained Quality Auditors and Quality Assurance Manager. The role and responsibility of each one is clearly defined. They are empowered with GIving stop advice to the production department, in case, the Q.A. team observe too many non-conformances occurring or repeatability is lost. Production department then conducts a meeting along with Q.A. for necessary corrective actions. Once the Q.A. is satisfied about the actions taken, regular production commences. All the Q.A.s are briefed with the Quality System in Fabric Warehouse, Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, and Packing. Job rotation is followed for Q.As to ensure more effectiveness.QUALITY MANAGEMENT PROCEDUREAQL INSPECTION It is the responsibility of the Factory/ Site Manager to ensure that all stock being dispatched from his/her site has been through a Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection process. A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection can take place either , prior to the storage in the factories finished goods warehouse or prior to shipment to the distribution warehouses .A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection cannot take place unless the audit team are in the possession of the following-An approved/ signed product quality standard which at minimum must be Contract Seal. the relevant product specification. The batch size for each audit is very much determined by the stage where pre-shipment AQL Inspection takes place; however, every effort must be made to ensure that the batch size is no less than 50 selling units. The Sara Lee Courtaulds Pre-Shipment Sampling Plan will determine the sample size for each batch. It is essential that the sample is randomly selected from the batch. The visual inspection of the garment in the sample must be against the garment specifications and the signed standard and faults found must be based on the General Auditing Criteria. All garments rejected must first be classified as either carrying a major or a minor fault/s and then recorded on a fully completed Production Unit Daily Pre-Shipment Audit Sheet. Major fault is a fault that would make the product either un-sellable or the customer would return it if noticed. Minor fault is a fault that may make the product either or the customer would be dissatisfied if noticed. When an audit has completed the failure levels must be checked against the AQL for that sampling plan to determine the status of the audit If the audit is accepted, the passed garments in the sample must be returned to the remaining stock and the stock can then be released either into the finished goods storage area or for shipment. Any rejected garment must be clearly identified and quarantined ready for repair or seconding.

A REJECTED PRE-SHIPMENT AQL INSPECTION If the audit is rejected, then the whole batch must be quarantined and 100% inspected. It is recommended that the pre-shipment audit team does not carry out 100% inspection. Following the 100% inspection all faults found must again be classified as either a major or a minor and then recorded in the 100% audit section of the audit sheet. When the above step has been completed, the rejected garments must be clearly identified and quarantined ready for repair or seconding. If the 100% inspection is not carried out by the pre-shipment audit team, then the passed garments from 100% inspection must be verified by the sam