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OLR (1982)29 (I2) A. Physical Oceanography 753 82:5924 Smith, N.P., 1982. Upwelling in Atlantic shelf waters of south Florida. Fla Scient., 45(2):125-138. Subsurface temperature data show one major up- welling event occurring during the first 3 wk of August 1978. Bottom temperatures suggest that cool water advances rapidly toward the coast, cooling nearshore water by as much as 7C ° in 2 wk. A strong thermocline is maintained throughout. The available data are inadequate to resolve the primary forcing mechanisms, but related studies suggest that up- welling may occur in response to the Florida Current as much as to the coastal wind field. Harbor Branch Foundation, Inc., R.R. 1, Box 196, Ft. Pierce, Fla. 33450, USA. A160. Waves, oscillations 82:5925 Kahma, K.A., 1981. On two-peaked wave spectra. Finn. mar. Res., 248:87-116. Investigated was the hypothesis that under suitable conditions the Phillips resonance mechanism could, together with the Miles mechanism, generate waves with a two-peaked spectrum. Consecutive buoys in the Bothnian Sea were used to measure wave growth in steady-state fetch-limited conditions during 7 months under conditions comparable to those during which two-peak wave growth previously has been reported. Although some two-peak spectra were observed, evolution of the low-frequency peak with fetch, time and wind speed was inconsistent with Phillips' theory. Swell seemed the most prob- able explanation for the observed two-peak struc- ture. Results support calculations based on Phillips' theory which indicate that direct atmospheric forc- ing is negligible in the principal stage of wave development. Inst. of Mar. Res., P.O. Box 166, SF-00141 Helsinki 14, Finland. 82:5926 Larichev, V.D and G.M. Reznik, 1982. Numerical investigation of the collisions of two-dimensional solitary Rosshy waves. Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 264(1):229-233. (In Russian.) 82:5927 Lebedev, A.N. and B.I. Sebekin, 1982. Generation of directed tsunami waves in the offshore region. Fiz. Atmosf. Okeana, 18(4):399-407. (In Russian, English abstract.) In long-wave theory, the non-decaying wave prop- agates perpendicular to the shore and originates from 'horizontal bottom displacement.' Calculated wave profiles and amplitudes are compared with observations of the 1960 Chile tsunami. (isz) 82:5928 Mattioli, F., 1981. Approximation of the three- dimensional linear water wave equations by a set of two-dimensional equations. Nuovo Cim., (C)4(6):621-634. The linear 3-D equations for surface water waves over a bottom of slowly varying depth may be approximated by a set of 2-D equations, the first of which is a simple extension of Berkhoff's equation. Ist. di Geofisica dell'Univ., Via Irnerio 46, 40126 Bologna, Italy. 82:5929 Nakamura, Shigehisa, 1981. [Linear waves and their instability in the vicinity of an elliptical coast.] Mer, Tokyo, 19(1):1-5. (In Japanese, French abstract.) Disaster Prevention Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Uji, Kyoto, 611 Japan. 82:5930 Nakamura, Shigehisa, 1981. A numerical tsunami model for Osaka Bay and Kii Channel [Japun]. Mer, Tokyo, 19(3): 105-110. (In Japanese, English abstract.) Shirahama Oceanogr. Observ., Kyoto Univ., Shirahama, Wakayama Pref., 649-22 Japan. 82:5931 Yamamoto, Hideyuki and Tomosaburo Abe, 1981. The behavior of swash. Mer, Tokyo, 19(2):69-74. (In Japanese, English abstract.) Run-up height and thickness of solitary incident waves on a beach of uniform slope (ranging 5.1~t6.6 °) were investigated. Maximum run-up height was proportional to incident wave height, with the coefficient of proportionality increasing with bottom slope to 20 ° and gradually decreasing thereafter. Swash thickness decreased exponentially with increasing distance upslope. Sci. Univ. of Tokyo, Kagurazaka 1-3, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 162, Japan. (slr) A180. Internal waves and tides 82:5932 Reutov, V.P., 1982. Nonlinear interaction of internal waves with the near-surface shear current. Fiz. Atmosf. Okeana, 18(4):383-390. (In Russian, English abstract.)

Approximation of the three-dimensional linear water wave equations by a set of two-dimensional equations

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OLR (1982) 29 (I 2) A. Physical Oceanography 753

82:5924 Smith, N.P., 1982. Upwelling in Atlantic shelf waters

of south Florida. Fla Scient., 45(2):125-138.

Subsurface temperature data show one major up- welling event occurring during the first 3 wk of August 1978. Bottom temperatures suggest that cool water advances rapidly toward the coast, cooling nearshore water by as much as 7C ° in 2 wk. A strong thermocline is maintained throughout. The available data are inadequate to resolve the primary forcing mechanisms, but related studies suggest that up- welling may occur in response to the Florida Current as much as to the coastal wind field. Harbor Branch Foundation, Inc., R.R. 1, Box 196, Ft. Pierce, Fla. 33450, USA.

A160. Waves, oscillations

82:5925 Kahma, K.A., 1981. On two-peaked wave spectra.

Finn. mar. Res., 248:87-116.

Investigated was the hypothesis that under suitable conditions the Phillips resonance mechanism could, together with the Miles mechanism, generate waves with a two-peaked spectrum. Consecutive buoys in the Bothnian Sea were used to measure wave growth in steady-state fetch-limited conditions during 7 months under conditions comparable to those during which two-peak wave growth previously has been reported. Although some two-peak spectra were observed, evolution of the low-frequency peak with fetch, time and wind speed was inconsistent with Phillips' theory. Swell seemed the most prob- able explanation for the observed two-peak struc- ture. Results support calculations based on Phillips' theory which indicate that direct atmospheric forc- ing is negligible in the principal stage of wave development. Inst. of Mar. Res., P.O. Box 166, SF-00141 Helsinki 14, Finland.

82:5926 Larichev, V.D and G.M. Reznik, 1982. Numerical

investigation of the collisions of two-dimensional solitary Rosshy waves. Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 264(1):229-233. (In Russian.)

82:5927 Lebedev, A.N. and B.I. Sebekin, 1982. Generation of

directed tsunami waves in the offshore region. Fiz. Atmosf. Okeana, 18(4):399-407. (In Russian, English abstract.)

In long-wave theory, the non-decaying wave prop- agates perpendicular to the shore and originates

from 'horizontal bottom displacement.' Calculated wave profiles and amplitudes are compared with observations of the 1960 Chile tsunami. (isz)

82:5928 Mattioli, F., 1981. Approximation of the three-

dimensional linear water wave equations by a set of two-dimensional equations. Nuovo Cim., (C)4(6):621-634.

The linear 3-D equations for surface water waves over a bottom of slowly varying depth may be approximated by a set of 2-D equations, the first of which is a simple extension of Berkhoff's equation. Ist. di Geofisica dell'Univ., Via Irnerio 46, 40126 Bologna, Italy.

82:5929 Nakamura, Shigehisa, 1981. [Linear waves and their

instability in the vicinity of an elliptical coast.] Mer, Tokyo, 19(1):1-5. (In Japanese, French abstract.) Disaster Prevention Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Uji, Kyoto, 611 Japan.

82:5930 Nakamura, Shigehisa, 1981. A numerical tsunami

model for Osaka Bay and Kii Channel [Japun]. Mer, Tokyo, 19(3): 105-110. (In Japanese, English abstract.) Shirahama Oceanogr. Observ., Kyoto Univ., Shirahama, Wakayama Pref., 649-22 Japan.

82:5931 Yamamoto, Hideyuki and Tomosaburo Abe, 1981.

The behavior of swash. Mer, Tokyo, 19(2):69-74. (In Japanese, English abstract.)

Run-up height and thickness of solitary incident waves on a beach of uniform slope (ranging 5.1~t6.6 °) were investigated. Maximum run-up height was proportional to incident wave height, with the coefficient of proportionality increasing with bottom slope to 20 ° and gradually decreasing thereafter. Swash thickness decreased exponentially with increasing distance upslope. Sci. Univ. of Tokyo, Kagurazaka 1-3, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 162, Japan. (slr)

A180. Internal waves and tides

82:5932 Reutov, V.P., 1982. Nonlinear interaction of internal

waves with the near-surface shear current. Fiz. Atmosf. Okeana, 18(4):383-390. (In Russian, English abstract.)