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Apulia G I R O LI B E R O · · · · · G R E E N S · · · · · Sights, history, wining and dining tips, useful information CYCLING GUIDE

Apulia - Girolibero Greens Cycling guide

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This bike tour will lead you into a region of scenic beauty, which is, by today’s standards, still unspoiled by the unattractive aspects of tourism and still retains testimony of its great and ancient culture.

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  • ApuliaGI

    RO L I B E R

    O

    G R E E N

    S

    Sights, history, wining and dining tips, useful information

    CYCLING GUIDE

  • Apulia

  • Photography:Simone Renoldi, Carla Santiccioli, Marco Barbanti, Alessia Damiano, Silvano Mistrorigo, Piergiorgio Bonetti.All other photos by Girolibero and no.parking.

    Girolibero, Vicenza 2015Maps, concept and design: no.parking, VicenzaPrinted in Italywww.girolibero.com

    ABOUT THE AUTHORSMarco Ferriero and Irene Vigolo share a love of nature, good food and ne wine. Ever on the lookout for new stories and discoveries, they are both incurable bike adventurers. In summer they enjoy leading fellow explorers around the world; in winter, when they are not busy planning new tours, Marco immerses himself in the peals of his trumpet and pages of his history books, while Irene can be spot-ted scaling a mountain and sur ng the waves.Fabio Perselli, the translator, has led Girolibero groups along the cycling trails of the Venice Lands, Dolomites and Provence for some years. He is also a travel writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.

    ABOUT THE TRANSLATIONIn the interests of both authenticity and clarity, names of locations, sites, dishes etc. generally appear in their original Italian form, with an English translation alongside, e.g. Lulivo che canta (The Singing Olive Tree), Citt Presepe (City of the Holy Crib) or crema pasticcera (Italian custard). Sticking to the Italian names should also help with your navigation, since signs directing to archaeological sites, beaches, etc. are likely to appear just in Italian.Dialects, re ecting the countrys remarkable diversity, are still very much in use in Italy often with a literary tradition of their own. Again, in the interests of au-thenticity we have preserved some dialectal words: the ring-shaped biscuit bread, for instance, appears in its original form (Friseddhra) as well as in Italian (Frisella, also commonly used in menus) and in English.As far as pronunciation is concernced, we simply do not have the space to delve into this realm here and we prefer to leave it to phrase books and lan-guage tutors. Scapece, the sh stew dished out of a wooden vat at festivals, for example, is pronouced scapaychay, not scapeess. If it is of any consolation, a northern Italian visiting the Deep South would struggle to pronounce Frised-dhra as well. And besides, as every seasoned traveller knows, the mantra is: Just do it! There is no better ice-breaker than visitors showing the host that they are making a good effort.Finally, please note that this guide is in UK English and that some words may not be immediately obvious to users of American English: the pavement, for example, is intended here as where people walk, not where they drive.

    Just do it!are making a good effort.Finally, please note that this guide is in UK English and that some words may not be immediately obvious to users of American English: the pavement, for example, is intended here as where people walk, not where they drive.

    as well. And besides, as every seasoned traveller knows, the mantra is: Just do it! There is no better ice-breaker than visitors showing the host that they are making a good effort.Finally, please note that this guide is in UK English and that some words may

    a northern Italian visiting the Deep South would struggle to pronounce as well. And besides, as every seasoned traveller knows, the mantra is:

    There is no better ice-breaker than visitors showing the host that they are making a good effort.

    example, is pronouced scapaychay, not scapeess. If it is of any consolation, a northern Italian visiting the Deep South would struggle to pronounce

    as well. And besides, as every seasoned traveller knows, the mantra is:

    delve into this realm here and we prefer to leave it to phrase books and lan-Scapece, the sh stew dished out of a wooden vat at festivals, for

    example, is pronouced scapaychay, not scapeess. If it is of any consolation, a northern Italian visiting the Deep South would struggle to pronounce

    delve into this realm here and we prefer to leave it to phrase books and lan-delve into this realm here and we prefer to leave it to phrase books and lan-, the sh stew dished out of a wooden vat at festivals, for

    example, is pronouced scapaychay, not scapeess. If it is of any consolation,

    As far as pronunciation is concernced, we simply do not have the space to As far as pronunciation is concernced, we simply do not have the space to delve into this realm here and we prefer to leave it to phrase books and lan-

    , the sh stew dished out of a wooden vat at festivals, for example, is pronouced scapaychay, not scapeess. If it is of any consolation,

    , also commonly used in menus) and in English.As far as pronunciation is concernced, we simply do not have the space to delve into this realm here and we prefer to leave it to phrase books and lan-

    thenticity we have preserved some dialectal words: the ring-shaped biscuit bread, for instance, appears in its original form (

    , also commonly used in menus) and in English.

    in Italy often with a literary tradition of their own. Again, in the interests of au-thenticity we have preserved some dialectal words: the ring-shaped biscuit bread, for instance, appears in its original form (Friseddhra

    in Italy often with a literary tradition of their own. Again, in the interests of au-thenticity we have preserved some dialectal words: the ring-shaped biscuit

    Dialects, re ecting the countrys remarkable diversity, are still very much in use in Italy often with a literary tradition of their own. Again, in the interests of au-

    (Italian custard). Sticking to the Italian names should also help with your navigation, since signs directing to archaeological

    Dialects, re ecting the countrys remarkable diversity, are still very much in use

    etc. generally appear in their original Italian form, with an English translation Citt Presepe (City of

    (Italian custard). Sticking to the Italian names should also help with your navigation, since signs directing to archaeological

    the Venice Lands, Dolomites and Provence for some years. He is also a travel writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.the Venice Lands, Dolomites and Provence for some years. He is also a travel the Venice Lands, Dolomites and Provence for some years. He is also a travel

    In the interests of both authenticity and clarity, names of locations, sites, dishes

    writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.

    In the interests of both authenticity and clarity, names of locations, sites, dishes

    the Venice Lands, Dolomites and Provence for some years. He is also a travel writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.

    In the interests of both authenticity and clarity, names of locations, sites, dishes

    writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.the Venice Lands, Dolomites and Provence for some years. He is also a travel writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.the Venice Lands, Dolomites and Provence for some years. He is also a travel writer and professional translator specialising in theatre, classical music and travel.

  • Apulia

    MARCO FERRIEROIRENE VIGOLO

    This guide is designed as a companion to your travels through

    the regions of Basilicata and Apulia, focusing on the lands known as the Murge and Salento that lie between

    the towns of Matera and Lecce.It provides information on their

    history, nature and culture, along with practical tips to make

    your journey all the more pleasur-able, safe and rewarding from tried

    and tested trattorias to hidden artistic gems, sensible craft shops

    and, of course, our favourite gelaterias.

    GI

    RO L I B E R

    O

    G R E E N

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  • Index

    From Matera to Lecce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Basilicata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 A potted history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Matera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

    From Matera to Alberobello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Le Murge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 A potted geography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39Alberobello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

    From Alberobello to Ostuni. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Martina Franca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Ostuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

    Salento . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 A Potted History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83From Lecce to Gallipoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Nard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93Gallipoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110

    Eating and drinking Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    History of the city The best in brief The best in brief Eating and drinking

    History of the city The best in brief Eating and drinking

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . History of the city The best in brief

    Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    History of the city

    The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The best in brief Eating and drinking

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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    Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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    31 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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  • MAPS

    OVERVIEW OF THE TOUR . . . .8

    STAGES OF THE TOUR

    Matera to Alberobello . . . . . . . . 30Alberobello to Ostuni . . . . . . . . . 56Lecce to Gallipoli . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Gallipoli to Santa Maria di Leuca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Otranto to Lecce . . . . . . . . . . . 154

    CITY MAPS

    Matera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Alberobello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Martina Franca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Ostuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Nard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Gallipoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Santa Maria di Leuca. . . . . . . . 120Otranto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Lecce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160

    From Gallipoli to Leuca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Santa Maria di Leuca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129

    From Leuca to Otranto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Otranto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151

    From Otranto to Lecce. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Lecce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176

    Useful information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178

    OVERVIEW OF THE TOUR

    MAPSMAPS

    Useful information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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    142 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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    142. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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    142

  • 6 Apulia

    The idea behind this cycling itinerary is to combine Matera, a quite unique city, with the very best of Apulia. This is a tour through breathtaking landscapes and millennial history, through gastronomy and music written in generational sagas, through religion and folklore in a region that lies at the heart of the Mediterranean. The human heritage and natural treasures that we encounter are all contained within a long strip of red earth called Terra dOtranto (Land of Otranto) a historic region en-compassed by the province of Matera and the ancient land of the Messapii people.The itinerary starts in Matera itself, the City of Stones, and progresses through the Murge Plateau. Your rst days of cycling will take you through the winding tracks and roads of the Itria Valley and its whitewashed small towns. Our rst night stop comes at Alberobello, capital of the famous trulli, the tradi-tional white stone huts of Apulia; next up is Ostuni, the milky-white town par excellence, on the borders between the Murge and the Plain of Salento.From Ostuni, a short hop on the train will take you to the town of Lecce, famous for its decorative Baroque, from where you can enjoy a loop through the deepest Salento. The sea dominates the nal four stages, with its spectrum of blues and ever-chang-ing coastline from the long stretches of bright sand between

    From Matera to Lecce

    the Messapii people.The itinerary starts in Matera itself, the City of Stones, and progresses through the Murge Plateau. Your rst days of cycling will take you through the winding tracks and roads of the Itria

    compassed by the province of Matera and the ancient land of the Messapii people.the Messapii people.The itinerary starts in Matera itself, the City of Stones, and progresses through the Murge Plateau. Your rst days of cycling

    compassed by the province of Matera and the ancient land of the Messapii people.The itinerary starts in Matera itself, the City of Stones, and

    Terra dOtrantocompassed by the province of Matera and the ancient land of the Messapii people.

    we encounter are all contained within a long strip of red earth Terra dOtranto (Land of Otranto) a historic region en-

    compassed by the province of Matera and the ancient land of

    Mediterranean. The human heritage and natural treasures that we encounter are all contained within a long strip of red earth

    (Land of Otranto) a historic region en-

    religion and folklore in a region that lies at the heart of the Mediterranean. The human heritage and natural treasures that we encounter are all contained within a long strip of red earth

    (Land of Otranto) a historic region en-

    gastronomy and music written in generational sagas, through religion and folklore in a region that lies at the heart of the Mediterranean. The human heritage and natural treasures that

    through breathtaking landscapes and millennial history, through gastronomy and music written in generational sagas, through religion and folklore in a region that lies at the heart of the

    quite unique city, with the very best of Apulia. This is a tour through breathtaking landscapes and millennial history, through gastronomy and music written in generational sagas, through

    quite unique city, with the very best of Apulia. This is a tour through breathtaking landscapes and millennial history, through

    The idea behind this cycling itinerary is to combine Matera, a quite unique city, with the very best of Apulia. This is a tour The idea behind this cycling itinerary is to combine Matera, a

  • 7Apulia

    From Matera to Lecce

    Gallipoli and Leuca, to the craggy shores of the eastern coast, which drop dramatically into the Ionian Sea. The Adriatic brings the tour to a close, initially with Otranto and then with a suc-cession of small summer resorts as far as the Cesine Nature Reserve. Here, we leave the coast behind and push inland as far as Lecce, the Florence of the South, for our last night.This guide aims to provide a modest but comprehensive overview of the regions art, history, culture, food and wine; plus, sum-marised information and practical tips to make your days easier and all the more enjoyable. We hope that within the available space we have come up with something more than a standard guide: a pleasant read, perhaps, as well as a good taster of the culture, qualities and quirks of this eccentric piece of planet right in the heart of the Med.

    Welcome to a land blessed by sun, sea and wind!

    easier and all the more enjoyable. We hope that within the available space we have come up with something more than a standard guide: a pleasant read, perhaps, as well as a good taster of the culture, qualities and quirks of this eccentric piece

    marised information and practical tips to make your days easier and all the more enjoyable. We hope that within the easier and all the more enjoyable. We hope that within the available space we have come up with something more than a standard guide: a pleasant read, perhaps, as well as a good

    marised information and practical tips to make your days easier and all the more enjoyable. We hope that within the available space we have come up with something more than a

    of the regions art, history, culture, food and wine; plus, sum-marised information and practical tips to make your days easier and all the more enjoyable. We hope that within the

    This guide aims to provide a modest but comprehensive overview of the regions art, history, culture, food and wine; plus, sum-marised information and practical tips to make your days

    as Lecce, the Florence of the South, for our last night.This guide aims to provide a modest but comprehensive overview of the regions art, history, culture, food and wine; plus, sum-

    Reserve. Here, we leave the coast behind and push inland as far as Lecce, the Florence of the South, for our last night.This guide aims to provide a modest but comprehensive overview of the regions art, history, culture, food and wine; plus, sum-

    cession of small summer resorts as far as the Cesine Nature Reserve. Here, we leave the coast behind and push inland as far as Lecce, the Florence of the South, for our last night.

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    which drop dramatically into the Ionian Sea. The Adriatic brings the tour to a close, initially with Otranto and then with a suc-cession of small summer resorts as far as the Cesine Nature

    which drop dramatically into the Ionian Sea. The Adriatic brings the tour to a close, initially with Otranto and then with a suc-

    Gallipoli and Leuca, to the craggy shores of the eastern coast, which drop dramatically into the Ionian Sea. The Adriatic brings Gallipoli and Leuca, to the craggy shores of the eastern coast,

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  • 10 Apulia

    Basilicata

    The Basilicata region, or ancient Lucania, is almost entirely moun-tainous and rarely fails to enchant the visitor with its natural beauty and extraordinary millennial his-tory.A canvas of perched settlements and dense forests, of stark rock badlands contrasting with the gentleness of the people, and the authentic no-nonsense local cuisine all speak for this relatively unknown territory bordering Apulia. What the visitor will appreciate here is a civilisation that to this day remains discreet and unostentatious, at ease with itself and not overrun by the excesses of our times.

    BASIL ICATA

    PotenzaMatera

    TarantoLecce

    Brindisi

    Foggia

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    MareAdriatico

    AREA: 9,990 km2

    POPULATION: 575,000THE SIX LARGEST TOWNS (BY POPULATION): Potenza 67,400; Matera 60,500; Mel 17,700; Pisticci 17,200; Policoro 17,000; Lavello 13,700

    THE REGION IN NUMBERS

    and dense forests, of stark rock badlands contrasting with the gentleness of the people, and the authentic no-nonsense local cuisine all speak for this relatively unknown territory bordering Apulia. What the visitor will appreciate here is a civilisation

    A canvas of perched settlements and dense forests, of stark rock badlands contrasting with the and dense forests, of stark rock badlands contrasting with the gentleness of the people, and the authentic no-nonsense local cuisine all speak for this relatively unknown territory bordering

    A canvas of perched settlements and dense forests, of stark rock badlands contrasting with the gentleness of the people, and the authentic no-nonsense local

    A canvas of perched settlements and dense forests, of stark rock badlands contrasting with the

    and extraordinary millennial his-

    A canvas of perched settlements

    the visitor with its natural beauty and extraordinary millennial his-

    tainous and rarely fails to enchant the visitor with its natural beauty and extraordinary millennial his-

    Lucania, is almost entirely moun-tainous and rarely fails to enchant the visitor with its natural beauty

    The Basilicata region, or ancient Lucania, is almost entirely moun-

    FoggiaFoggia

  • 11Apulia

    A Potted History600,000-300,000 BC Earliest human settlements suggested by archaeological nds near Matera and Venosa.8TH-5TH CENTURIES BC Magna Grecia colonies of Siris, Metapontus and, later, Heraclea. Within these provinces, however, some indigenous communities persist.6TH CENTURY BC Arrival in the region of the Lucani people. Their largest and most powerful settlement, Leukania, poses a threat even to the strongest of the coastal towns of Greek origin.4TH-3RD CENTURY BC Expansion of mighty Rome topples the local balance of power. The Lucani are overrun and subjugated and, with the conquest of Taranto (272 BC), the Romans estab-lish control over the entire region.3RD CENTURY BC-5TH CENTURY AD Large-scale exploitation of the land on the part of the Romans leads to impoverishment and the abandonment of many pre-existing settlements.6TH-10TH CENTURIES AD Following the collapse of the Western Holy Roman Empire, the entire area becomes a battleground involving Goths, Byzantines and Longobards; increasingly fre-quent incursions by Saracens lead to further impoverishment.11TH-13TH CENTURIES Normans settle in Men and soon obtain papal recognition as rulers across much of southern Italy.1194-1250 Reign of Frederick II of Hohenstaufen shines through as a period of great splendour in the region. Enlightened reforms bring wealth and prosperity.

    local balance of power. The Lucani are overrun and subjugated and, with the conquest of Taranto (272 BC), the Romans estab-lish control over the entire region.3RD CENTURY BC-5TH CENTURY AD

    local balance of power. The Lucani are overrun and subjugated local balance of power. The Lucani are overrun and subjugated and, with the conquest of Taranto (272 BC), the Romans estab-lish control over the entire region.

    4TH-3RD CENTURY BC

    local balance of power. The Lucani are overrun and subjugated and, with the conquest of Taranto (272 BC), the Romans estab-

    even to the strongest of the coastal towns of Greek origin.4TH-3RD CENTURY BC

    local balance of power. The Lucani are overrun and subjugated

    largest and most powerful settlement, Leukania, poses a threat even to the strongest of the coastal towns of Greek origin.4TH-3RD CENTURY BC Expansion of mighty Rome topples the

    Arrival in the region of the Lucani people. Their largest and most powerful settlement, Leukania, poses a threat even to the strongest of the coastal towns of Greek origin.

    indigenous communities persist. Arrival in the region of the Lucani people. Their

    largest and most powerful settlement, Leukania, poses a threat even to the strongest of the coastal towns of Greek origin.

    and, later, Heraclea. Within these provinces, however, some indigenous communities persist.

    Arrival in the region of the Lucani people. Their

    Magna Grecia colonies of Siris, Metapontus and, later, Heraclea. Within these provinces, however, some

    archaeological nds near Matera and Venosa. Magna Grecia colonies of Siris, Metapontus

    and, later, Heraclea. Within these provinces, however, some

    archaeological nds near Matera and Venosa. Magna Grecia colonies of Siris, Metapontus

    Earliest human settlements suggested by archaeological nds near Matera and Venosa.

    Earliest human settlements suggested by

  • 12 Apulia

    13TH-15TH CENTURIES A bitter contest ensues the death of Frederick II, leading to political and economic instability; this persists under the House of Anjou. With the Aragonese conquest, however, and the mass in ux of refugees from the East, Basilicata enjoys a period of recovery.16TH-19TH CENTURIES Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, replaces the old aristocracy of Lucania. The over-exploitation of local resources on the part of his new administration leads to extreme poverty.1860-1900 The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a civil war.1904 Approval of special legislation for Basilicata, the rst example of exceptional measures taken by the State to support the South.1922-1943 Agrarian reforms and development projects under Fascist rule fail to bring prosperity. Neglected and in a state of decline, the region is used by the regime as a place for internal exile.1943 Matera is the rst Italian city to rise up to German occupa-tion.1980 The Irpinia Earthquake (6.9 on the Richter scale) brings widespread devastation.widespread devastation.

    The Irpinia Earthquake (6.9 on the Richter scale) brings widespread devastation.

    The Irpinia Earthquake (6.9 on the Richter scale) brings

    Matera is the rst Italian city to rise up to German occupa-

    The Irpinia Earthquake (6.9 on the Richter scale) brings

    Matera is the rst Italian city to rise up to German occupa- Matera is the rst Italian city to rise up to German occupa-

    Fascist rule fail to bring prosperity. Neglected and in a state of decline, the region is used by the regime as a place for internal

    Agrarian reforms and development projects under Fascist rule fail to bring prosperity. Neglected and in a state of decline, the region is used by the regime as a place for internal

    Approval of special legislation for Basilicata, the rst example of exceptional measures taken by the State to support the South.

    Agrarian reforms and development projects under Fascist rule fail to bring prosperity. Neglected and in a state of

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated

    rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes rife and in places, especially Lucania, escalates to the limits of a

    The precarious situation in the South is exacerbated in the aftermath of the Uni cation of Italy. Lawlessness becomes

  • Further information on the Basilicata region can be found on the following websites.

    BASILICATA ON THE INTERNET

    WWW.APTBASILICATA.ITOf cial site of the Basilicata Region Tourist Board (multilingual).

    WWW.BASILICATATURISTICA.COMPlaces to visit, activities, events and further information about Basilicata (multilingual).

    WWW.DISCOVER-BASILIKATA.DEA host of information about Basilicata (German only).

    WWW.BASILICATAEVENTI.ITUp-to-date details about events throughout the region (Italian only).

    WWW.BASILICATANET.COMA variety of news, tips and tricks (Italian only).

    Further information on the Basilicata region can be found on the following websites.

    WWW.APTBASILICATA.IT

    BASILICATA ON THE INTERNETBASILICATA ON THE INTERNETBASILICATA ON THE INTERNET

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  • 16 Apulia

    MateraLuck has a mind of its own even the most superstitious citizens of Matera can tell you that. It was on a certain Friday the 17th, one of the unluckiest days in the calendar, that their city was voted European Capital of Culture 2019. Leaving the competition trailing by a good 13(!) votes to 7, Matera can add this latest recognition to the World Heritage badge bestowed upon it for the beauty and individuality of its historic centre.Carved out of rock and clinging to the slopes of a gorge called Gravina, the Sassi (Stones) have been inhabited since prehis-toric times; only after the Second World War did they become more widely known and that, unfortunately, was due to the appalling living conditions of their dwellers.

    AREA: 3,480 km2

    POPULATION: 201,000 THE SIX LARGEST TOWNS (BY POPULATION): Matera 60,500; Pisticci 17,200; Policoro 17,000; Bernalda 12,500; Montescaglioso 10,100; Ferrandina 8,800

    THE PROVINCE IN NUMBERS

    the beauty and individuality of its historic centre.Carved out of rock and clinging to the slopes of a gorge called Gravina, the toric times; only after the Second World War did they become

    recognition to the World Heritage badge bestowed upon it for the beauty and individuality of its historic centre.the beauty and individuality of its historic centre.Carved out of rock and clinging to the slopes of a gorge called Gravina, the

    recognition to the World Heritage badge bestowed upon it for the beauty and individuality of its historic centre.Carved out of rock and clinging to the slopes of a gorge called

    trailing by a good 13(!) votes to 7, Matera can add this latest recognition to the World Heritage badge bestowed upon it for the beauty and individuality of its historic centre.

    voted European Capital of Culture 2019. Leaving the competition trailing by a good 13(!) votes to 7, Matera can add this latest recognition to the World Heritage badge bestowed upon it for

    one of the unluckiest days in the calendar, that their city was voted European Capital of Culture 2019. Leaving the competition trailing by a good 13(!) votes to 7, Matera can add this latest

    of Matera can tell you that. It was on a certain Friday the 17th, one of the unluckiest days in the calendar, that their city was voted European Capital of Culture 2019. Leaving the competition trailing by a good 13(!) votes to 7, Matera can add this latest

    Luck has a mind of its own even the most superstitious citizens of Matera can tell you that. It was on a certain Friday the 17th, one of the unluckiest days in the calendar, that their city was

    Luck has a mind of its own even the most superstitious citizens of Matera can tell you that. It was on a certain Friday the 17th, Luck has a mind of its own even the most superstitious citizens

  • 17Apulia

    Years of concerted effort have led to Matera being rightly ap-preciated and its image reassessed: a blot on the landscape has nally been valued as a treasure, its centennial quarters restored to their ancient splendour.New horizons are appearing for Matera and, to quote the slogan for its Capital of Culture candidacy, there is nally a chance to Open up the Future.

    History of the CityPREHISTORY

    Materas roots date as far back as Palaeolithic times, its earliest human traces of hunter gatherers adapted to their immediate natural surroundings approximately 400,000 years old. In

    TOURIST INFORMATIONAlthough Matera does not have an ad hoc Tourist Board as we go to print, there are useful links on basilicataturistica.com.In town, the following offer an of cial service to visitors:- Piazza Pistola (next to the Monastery of St Lucy and Agatha)- Kiosk in Via Domenico Ridola

    Open up the Future.

    History of the City

    for its Capital of Culture candidacy, there is nally a chance to Open up the Future.Open up the Future.for its Capital of Culture candidacy, there is nally a chance to Open up the Future.

    New horizons are appearing for Matera and, to quote the slogan for its Capital of Culture candidacy, there is nally a chance to Open up the Future.

    restored to their ancient splendour.New horizons are appearing for Matera and, to quote the slogan for its Capital of Culture candidacy, there is nally a chance to

    has nally been valued as a treasure, its centennial quarters restored to their ancient splendour.New horizons are appearing for Matera and, to quote the slogan

    preciated and its image reassessed: a blot on the landscape has nally been valued as a treasure, its centennial quarters restored to their ancient splendour.New horizons are appearing for Matera and, to quote the slogan

    Years of concerted effort have led to Matera being rightly ap-preciated and its image reassessed: a blot on the landscape has nally been valued as a treasure, its centennial quarters

    Years of concerted effort have led to Matera being rightly ap-preciated and its image reassessed: a blot on the landscape Years of concerted effort have led to Matera being rightly ap-

  • 18 ApuliaM

    AT

    ER

    A

    Neolithic times the community passed from a nomadic exist-ence to one of settled subsistence, establishing the rst per-manent settlements: the dwellings were carved in the rock within deep trenches, some of which can still be seen a few kilometres from Matera, in the Parco delle Murge Materano. Similar dwellings were subsequently created within the Gravina Gorge of Matera itself, involving the laborious task of terracing the rock face; this feature of the settlement would transform Matera into the city as we know it today. In time, the caves would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste material being used to block off the entrances as well as to create outbuildings.

    HISTORY

    Around these prehistoric villages grew the Greek polis that would transform Matera into a key transit hub for commercial traf c between the coast and the inland destinations. In Roman times, however, the city would decline in power and prestige, falling into oblivion until the Norman-Swabian dynasty in the Middle Ages: Matera was then elevated to the status of me-tropolis, its standing sealed by the construction of a cathedral tropolis, its standing sealed by the construction of a cathedral Middle Ages: Matera was then elevated to the status of me-tropolis, its standing sealed by the construction of a cathedral

    falling into oblivion until the Norman-Swabian dynasty in the Middle Ages: Matera was then elevated to the status of me-tropolis, its standing sealed by the construction of a cathedral

    falling into oblivion until the Norman-Swabian dynasty in the Middle Ages: Matera was then elevated to the status of me-

    traf c between the coast and the inland destinations. In Roman times, however, the city would decline in power and prestige, falling into oblivion until the Norman-Swabian dynasty in the

    would transform Matera into a key transit hub for commercial traf c between the coast and the inland destinations. In Roman times, however, the city would decline in power and prestige,

    Around these prehistoric villages grew the Greek polis that would transform Matera into a key transit hub for commercial traf c between the coast and the inland destinations. In Roman

    Matera into the city as we know it today. In time, the caves

    material being used to block off the entrances as well as to would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste material being used to block off the entrances as well as to

    Matera into the city as we know it today. In time, the caves Matera into the city as we know it today. In time, the caves would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste Matera into the city as we know it today. In time, the caves would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste material being used to block off the entrances as well as to material being used to block off the entrances as well as to would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste material being used to block off the entrances as well as to material being used to block off the entrances as well as to

    Matera into the city as we know it today. In time, the caves would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste material being used to block off the entrances as well as to material being used to block off the entrances as well as to

    Matera into the city as we know it today. In time, the caves would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste would be extended with their numerous branches, with waste material being used to block off the entrances as well as to material being used to block off the entrances as well as to

  • 19Apulia

    MA

    TE

    RA

    high above Civita (1270). Tragically, with the fall of Frederick II and the establishment of the House of Anjou, the city regressed into darkness, there to languish until the arrival of the Aragonese. The new Spanish sovereign would turn it into a strategic centre for Christendoms con ict with the Turks, and Matera was reborn with new buildings and a modern infra-structure. Between 1663 and the arrival of Napoleons troops, a new era of industriousness and wealth transformed the civic and urban landscape, with the gradual appearance of more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns. Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became the regional capital of Basilicata.

    INTO THE 21ST CENTURY

    The fragile ecosystem of the Stones began to buckle towards the end of 18th century. The new, larger buildings on the slopes of the Gravina restricted the natural ow of water, while the in-crease in population saw many of the cisterns turn into dwellings all to the detriment of the fresh water supply and drainage.

    MATERA ON THE INTERNET

    WWW.MATERA-BASILICATA2019.ITAll you need to know about Matera as the 2019 European Capital of Culture (Italian and English).

    WWW.FERROVIEAPPULOLUCANE.ITThe Appulo Lucane railways are an essential part of the Apulia and Basili-cata transport infrastructure (Italian and English).

    WWW.CEAMATERA.ITAn environmental education centre organ-ising walking excursions in the Parco delle Murge Materane (multilingual).

    WWW.MICCOLIS-SPA.ITMiccolis is the company in charge of the citys public transport system. Also runs coach services three times a day with Lecce, Brindisi, Naples and smaller towns (Italian only).

    WWW.MATERACITTANARRATA.IT Useful digital platform allowing you to follow a number of itineraries and sup-plying information of the sites as you go (multilingual).

    WWW.MATERA-BASILICATA2019.ITAll you need to know about Matera as the 2019 European Capital of Culture (Italian and English).

    WWW.MATERA-BASILICATA2019.ITAll you need to know about Matera as the 2019 European Capital of Culture (Italian

    WWW.MATERA-BASILICATA2019.ITAll you need to know about Matera as the

    MATERA ON THE INTERNETMATERA ON THE INTERNETMATERA ON THE INTERNET

    all to the detriment of the fresh water supply and drainage.crease in population saw many of the cisterns turn into dwellings all to the detriment of the fresh water supply and drainage.

    the Gravina restricted the natural ow of water, while the in-crease in population saw many of the cisterns turn into dwellings all to the detriment of the fresh water supply and drainage.

    the Gravina restricted the natural ow of water, while the in-crease in population saw many of the cisterns turn into dwellings

    The fragile ecosystem of the Stones began to buckle towards the end of 18th century. The new, larger buildings on the slopes of the Gravina restricted the natural ow of water, while the in-

    The fragile ecosystem of the Stones began to buckle towards the end of 18th century. The new, larger buildings on the slopes of The fragile ecosystem of the Stones began to buckle towards the

    more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-civic and urban landscape, with the gradual appearance of

    ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above

    civic and urban landscape, with the gradual appearance of

    interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns.

    civic and urban landscape, with the gradual appearance of more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-

    Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns.

    more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-

    Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became

    civic and urban landscape, with the gradual appearance of more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns. Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became

    ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns. Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became

    more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns. ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above

    civic and urban landscape, with the gradual appearance of more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-

    Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became

    ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns. Matera ceased to be part of the Land of Otranto and became

    ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above

    civic and urban landscape, with the gradual appearance of more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above interred cellars, chapels hewn in the rock, caves and cisterns.

    more imposing buildings and avenues catering for the emerg-ing bourgeoisie. Palazzi, churches and monasteries rose above

  • 20 ApuliaM

    AT

    ER

    A

    With time, this state of degradation compounded by an ill-conceived agrarian reform turned Matera into an uninhabit-able and malarial backwater. The decay deepened further until the late 1940s when Carlo Levis classic, Christ Stopped at Eboli (in which the author, an Italian Jew exiled to the area by the Fascist authorities, highlights the appalling conditions of this forgotten province) nally spurred the post-war political class into action. Emergency legislation was passed and the Stones dwellers were gradually rehoused into modern quarters higher up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s onwards, further initiatives to reclaim and restore the Stones culminated, in 1993, in the priceless recognition of Matera as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    La Gravina is a geological formation typical of Apulia and Basilicata. These badlands to give them their proper if rather unfortunate English name have been carved through time immemorial by water eroding the chalky rocks it flows over. For millennia, the confluence of two torrents Gravina and Jesce has clawed away at the deep, evocative gully which divides the Stones from the rockscape on the opposite face: the Parco Archeologico Storico Naturale delle Chiese Rupestri (rock churches) del Materano, otherwise known as the Parco delle Murge Materano (Materan Murge Park). The two facing slopes are quite distinct in their geology, the rock face on the towns side being better preserved than the more aggres-sively eroded side opposite.

    On the parks slope, the energy of the water has designed a terrain of lunar beauty, making it one of the most fascinating rockscapes in Europe.The park is easily reached by leaving through Porta Pistola and following the steps that lead down to the Gravina. We would recommend any keen walkers to hire a guide or to join one of the excursions organised by the Park Authority. Hiking with a knowledgeable guide makes it easier to understand the timeless relationship between man and nature here.Ente Parco Delle Murge Materano10 Via Sette Dolori (Rioni Sassi)Tel. 0835 336166www.parcomurgia.it

    LA GRAVINA AND THE PARCO DELLE MURGE MATERANO

    torrents Gravina and Jesce has clawed away at the deep, evocative gully which divides the Stones from the rockscape on the opposite face:

    the chalky rocks it flows over. For millennia, the confluence of two millennia, the confluence of two torrents Gravina and Jesce has clawed away at the deep, evocative

    the chalky rocks it flows over. For millennia, the confluence of two torrents Gravina and Jesce has

    time immemorial by water eroding the chalky rocks it flows over. For millennia, the confluence of two

    proper if rather unfortunate English name have been carved through time immemorial by water eroding

    These badlands to give them their proper if rather unfortunate English proper if rather unfortunate English name have been carved through time immemorial by water eroding

    typical of Apulia and Basilicata. These badlands to give them their proper if rather unfortunate English name have been carved through

    La Gravina is a geological formation

    These badlands to give them their the water has designed a terrain of lunar beauty, making it one of the

    On the parks slope, the energy of the water has designed a terrain of

    LA GRAVINA AND THE PARCO DELLE MURGE LA GRAVINA AND THE PARCO DELLE MURGE

    culminated, in 1993, in the priceless recognition of Matera as a

    up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The dwellers were gradually rehoused into modern quarters higher

    result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city

    dwellers were gradually rehoused into modern quarters higher

    with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s

    dwellers were gradually rehoused into modern quarters higher up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The

    with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s

    up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The

    onwards, further initiatives to reclaim and restore the Stones

    dwellers were gradually rehoused into modern quarters higher up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s onwards, further initiatives to reclaim and restore the Stones onwards, further initiatives to reclaim and restore the Stones

    result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s onwards, further initiatives to reclaim and restore the Stones

    up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city

    dwellers were gradually rehoused into modern quarters higher up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The

    onwards, further initiatives to reclaim and restore the Stones

    result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s onwards, further initiatives to reclaim and restore the Stones

    result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city

    dwellers were gradually rehoused into modern quarters higher up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city with a dead heart: an abandoned historic centre. From the 1980s

    up the hill an ongoing process that lasted into the 1960s. The result, however, was far from ideal: Matera became a living city

  • 21Apulia

    The best in brief1 PALOMBARO LUNGO Beneath Piazza Veneto lies one of the

    most capacious cisterns ever built, the Palombaro Lungo. Its basin, completely carved out by hand and fully operational by the 19th century, measures 16 metres in depth and 50 in length and is fed water from several minor cisterns; it is one of the best examples of man-made aquifers supplying the Stones as recently as the last century. A system of hydraulic machinery and waterways, resembling the roots of an upturned tree, pro-vided water to the dwellings above.

    Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-1pm and 3-6pm, 3

    2 SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA The complex of St John the Baptist was erected in 1233 outside the city walls to house the church and convent which at the time were dedicated to St Mary of the Annunciation. In 1480 the nuns were transferred near the ca-thedral and the buildings deserted. They were then reopened and reconsecrated in 1965 with their current dedication to St John the Baptist. In 1926 the church was stripped of its Baroque plasterwork, which clashed with the original design, and the medieval architecture can now be fully appreciated as one of the nest examples in southern Italy.

    and waterways, resembling the roots of an upturned tree, pro-vided water to the dwellings above.

    Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-1pm and 3-6pm, 3

    recently as the last century. A system of hydraulic machinery and waterways, resembling the roots of an upturned tree, pro-and waterways, resembling the roots of an upturned tree, pro-vided water to the dwellings above.

    recently as the last century. A system of hydraulic machinery and waterways, resembling the roots of an upturned tree, pro-vided water to the dwellings above.

    best examples of man-made aquifers supplying the Stones as recently as the last century. A system of hydraulic machinery and waterways, resembling the roots of an upturned tree, pro-

    and is fed water from several minor cisterns; it is one of the best examples of man-made aquifers supplying the Stones as recently as the last century. A system of hydraulic machinery

    the 19th century, measures 16 metres in depth and 50 in length and is fed water from several minor cisterns; it is one of the best examples of man-made aquifers supplying the Stones as

    basin, completely carved out by hand and fully operational by the 19th century, measures 16 metres in depth and 50 in length and is fed water from several minor cisterns; it is one of the best examples of man-made aquifers supplying the Stones as

    most capacious cisterns ever built, the Palombaro Lungo. Its basin, completely carved out by hand and fully operational by the 19th century, measures 16 metres in depth and 50 in length

    Beneath Piazza Veneto lies one of the most capacious cisterns ever built, the Palombaro Lungo. Its basin, completely carved out by hand and fully operational by

    Beneath Piazza Veneto lies one of the most capacious cisterns ever built, the Palombaro Lungo. Its

    Beneath Piazza Veneto lies one of the

  • 22 Apulia

    The original faade looks out over the gardens of the old hos-pital and presents an elegant portal with an interlaced oral design. Inside, the mystical and serene atmosphere casts the visitor back to the Middle Ages. The Latin Cross design includes three naves that are richly embellished with both human and oral gures.

    Via Biagio. Open during holy services check locally for times

  • 23Apulia

    MA

    TE

    RA

    3 CATHEDRAL This formidable cathedral was consecrated in 1270 on the highest and best protected site of the historic cen-tre, which was once the Greek acropolis: la Civita. Regarded as a natural fortress since time immemorial by virtue of its stra-tegic position and defensive walls, it was considered impregna-ble until the 16th century. The man-made rampart on which the cathedral is built conceals all the layers of dwellings that lie beneath the city. Overlooking the Sasso Barisano, the faade is designed in the Apulian Romanesque style; its main portal accommodates a statue of the Madonna della Bruna, the citys patron saint. Little remains of the Romanesque style indoors, since it was blanketed in plasterwork and a range of gilded ornamentation in the course of the 18th century. The cathedral is currently under restoration.

    4 CASA NOHA A cultural and arts centre bequeathed in 2004 by the Fondo Ambiente Italiano (Italian Environmental Fund), Casa Noha is located in a compact aristocratic palazzo a short dis-tance from the cathedral in Civita. Inside, visitors can follow an audio-visual tour through the nooks and crannies of this fascinating house. The Fondo Ambiente Italiano aims to provide an essential overview of the city, supported by an app: Invisibile Materanv.

    9 Recinto Cavone - Rione Civita - Tel. 0835 335452 Open daily (except Monday) 10am-6pm, entry by donation www.fondoambiente.it (Italian only)

    5 CHURCH OF SANTA LUCIA ALLA MALVA AND THE BARBARIAN

    CEMETERY This chapel in the heart of Sasso Caveoso is a classic example of a rock-hewn church. It was part of a more extensive monastic complex which prospered until the 13th century. The frescoes inside are well preserved; outside, the steps overlook-ing the Gravina lead to the unique archaeological site of the Barbarian Cemetery. Its Longobard (hence Barbarian) tombs have withstood the ravages of time and a series of pits bear witness to a Bronze Age settlement of stilt houses.

    Sasso Caveoso, Open daily 10am-7pm

    CHURCH OF SANTA LUCIA ALLA MALVA AND THE BARBARIAN

    CEMETERY This chapel in the heart of Sasso Caveoso is a classic CEMETERY This chapel in the heart of Sasso Caveoso is a classic CEMETERYexample of a rock-hewn church. It was part of a more extensive

    CHURCH OF SANTA LUCIA ALLA MALVA AND THE BARBARIAN

    This chapel in the heart of Sasso Caveoso is a classic

    www.fondoambiente.it (Italian only)

    CHURCH OF SANTA LUCIA ALLA MALVA AND THE BARBARIAN

    Open daily (except Monday) 10am-6pm, entry by donation www.fondoambiente.it (Italian only)

    9 Recinto Cavone - Rione Civita - Tel. 0835 335452 Open daily (except Monday) 10am-6pm, entry by donation www.fondoambiente.it (Italian only)

    9 Recinto Cavone - Rione Civita - Tel. 0835 335452 Open daily (except Monday) 10am-6pm, entry by donation

    an essential overview of the city, supported by an app: Invisibile

    9 Recinto Cavone - Rione Civita - Tel. 0835 335452

    fascinating house. The Fondo Ambiente Italiano aims to provide an essential overview of the city, supported by an app: Invisibile

    an audio-visual tour through the nooks and crannies of this fascinating house. The Fondo Ambiente Italiano aims to provide an essential overview of the city, supported by an app: Invisibile

    tance from the cathedral in Civita.