Aquaria Construction, Design and Management (a brief

overview).

Famous-cole A.O, Animashaun S.O, Shittu A.J, Fasasi A.O, Oyedele M.O

Department of Fisheries, Faculty of Science, Lagos state University, Nigeria

CHAPTER ONE

1.0 INTRODUCTION

Aquarium is a receptacle for maintaining aquatic organisms, either freshwater or marine, or a

facility in which a collection of aquatic organisms is displayed or studied.

Fig 1: a typical aquarium

1.1 DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE

1.1.1 Defining requirements

Building design should take into account a number of points. There should be a rather large

lobby for receiving the visitors; it is a usual practice for public aquaria to receive groups of

people: school classes, groups of tourists, visits from universities and visits organized by

societies. The entry to the aquarium display should be slightly delayed for the adaptation of the

visitors to the dim light of the surroundings. Information referring to the exhibits and aquarium

activities in the form of posters or power point projections can keep the visitors occupied while

they proceed slowly to the tank display area. The whole way should be flat for safety reasons.

The display area should be viewed on the “one way” pattern and the exit should lead, if

possible, to a small museum or exhibition place providing additional information mainly

through preserved specimens and panels, posters and computer programs. This supplementary

information will also prolong the time spent in the aquarium building. Eventually the visit

should lead to an aquarium shop near the exit. Visitors should not have any access to aquarium

installation, laboratories or other ancillary facilities unless a specific visit has been arranged,

programmed thoroughly and all safety measures have been taken.

Space requirements for pumping facilities, the master tank, the control room, laboratories,

storage place, tanks for fish quarantines and tanks for the reserve fish stock have to be taken

into account.

1.1.2 SITE SELECTION

It is an advantage if a seafront area is chosen. The selection parameters are a trade-off between

high quality environmental conditions and vicinity to a town that will be the potential source

of visitors and academic activities. The most important factors to the technical aspects of the

aquarium as far as the marine environment is concerned are:

(a) High water quality is absolutely necessary for the tank supply

(b) Wild populations of desired species in the area, form a good source of living organisms.

Although aquaria tend to import living organisms from all over the world, small aquaria largely

rely on the local marine ecosystem

(c) Endemic diseases and parasites

(d) Microbiological populations i.e. possible pathogens and

(e) Coastal seawater circulation and wave regime: related to water renewal as well as to

possible re-suspension of the sediment in the water abstraction area.

The most important factors concerning the accessibility of the site area are:

(a) Distance from the nearest city

(b) Regular public transport

(c) Size of school population in the area

(d) Academic and research institutions in the area

(e) National parks, conservation areas, ongoing plans in the area on conservation and

biodiversity issues.

CHAPTER TWO

2.0. AQUARIUM CONSTRUCTION

2.0.1. Construction Materials

Glass is probably the safest basic material, although polyethylene, polypropylene, acrylic

plastics (Plexiglas), and fluorocarbon plastics are normally nontoxic. Fibre glass has been

widely used and is nontoxic if properly prepared. Adhesives for sealing include epoxy resins,

polyvinyl chloride, silicone rubber (except for certain coloured preparations), and neoprene.

Metals are not usually used, especially in seawater, which is highly corrosive. Stainless steel,

however, has a low toxicity, and is often used, especially in freshwater systems.

A small aquarium can be constructed entirely of glass and without supporting frames by using

silicone rubber as an adhesive. Fibre glass is probably the most practical supporting material

for all but the largest tanks since it is lightweight, strong, does not deteriorate, and is easily

fabricated into any shape. Wood, though widely used, is subject to rot and boring organisms

and thus must be protected. Reinforced concrete, including special mixes for seawater, is the

principal supporting material used in the construction of large aquariums.

In modern aquariums tanks of a variety of sizes and shapes are often grouped together in order

to avoid the “boxes of fish” look that characterizes some of the older, formal aquariums. Dry

dioramas at the rear of the tank create the illusion of distance; the tank habitat can be a natural

one or one in which fibre glass has been impregnated or painted to duplicate almost any

environment. Modern aquariums attempt to illustrate the natural environment of the specimens

displayed.

Polished plate glass, fully tempered polished plate glass, and Plexiglas are the most commonly

used glazing materials. Polished plate glass is usually used only in small aquariums because it

breaks into large pieces when it fails. One generally accepted practice is to glaze large tanks

with two or three layers of tempered glass so that if breakage occurs it is confined to one layer.

Although Plexiglas is easily scratched, it can be re-polished.

A small aquarium can be constructed entirely of glass and without supporting frames by using

silicone rubber as an adhesive. Fibre glass is probably the most practical supporting material

for all but the largest tanks since it is lightweight, strong, does not deteriorate, and is easily

fabricated into any shape. Wood, though widely used, is subject to rot and boring organisms

and thus must be protected. Reinforced concrete, including special mixes for seawater, is the

principal supporting material used in the construction of large aquariums.

In modern aquariums tanks of a variety of sizes and shapes are often grouped together in order

to avoid the “boxes of fish” look that characterizes some of the older, formal aquariums. Dry

dioramas at the rear of the tank create the illusion of distance; the tank habitat can be a natural

one or one in which fibre glass has been impregnated or painted to duplicate almost any

environment. Modern aquariums attempt to illustrate the natural environment of the specimens

displayed.

Polished plate glass, fully tempered polished plate glass, and Plexiglas are the most commonly

used glazing materials. Polished plate glass is usually used only in small aquariums because it

breaks into large pieces when it fails. One generally accepted practice is to glaze large tanks

with two or three layers of tempered glass so that if breakage occurs it is confined to one layer.

Although Plexiglas is easily scratched, it can be re-polished.

Accessories for individual tanks normally include filters, air pumps, lights, and electric

thermostatically controlled immersion heaters, or perhaps alternately, some means of chilling

the water. In aquarium buildings the tanks are usually grouped so that they have a common

filter and method of temperature control. Water sterilizers may be included. Plumbing in large

aquariums with multiple systems is sometimes complex, involving a variety of automatic

controls and water-quality monitoring systems. Because of its cost and fragility, glass plumbing

(e.g., for aeration or circulation of water within an aquarium) is used only in cases in which

low toxicity is essential. Unplasticized polyvinyl chloride pipe is widely used. Fibre-glass pipe

and epoxy-lined asbestos pipe are sometimes used, but lead and hard rubber pipe are obsolete.

In seawater systems the growth of fouling organisms such as mussels and barnacles are avoided

by providing the system with duplicate pipes and alternating their use on a weekly basis. When

a line is dry, the few organisms present die and are flushed out when the line is again put into

service.

Non-metallic or plastic-lined pumps are better than metal ones in terms of toxicity, but stainless

steel is often satisfactory. Airlift pumps (such as those used in home aquarium sub-sand filters)

move large volumes of water when the lift pipes are of sufficient diameter.

Generally, the most effective illumination is by incandescent lamps placed above the front

glass. Fluorescent lights provide even illumination but may over illuminate the tank walls;

coloured lights accentuate natural colours; and mercury-vapour lamps encourage maximum

growth of marine plants.

Fig 2: Silicon and glass materials

Glass Aquarium Pros

Cheaper than Acrylic Tanks most of the time

Much harder to scratch but it still can happen

Tanks are usually industry standard sizes, making lids and such easy to purchase

Easier to clean because there is less need to worry about scratching

Glass Aquarium Cons

Heavy – A glass tank is much heavier than the same size Acrylic tank, making it harder

to move

Glass can be drilled for bulkhead fittings but it’s much more nerve racking than drilling

Acrylic

Not as efficient at holding in temperature compared to Acrylic

Scratches cannot be fixed

Harder to fix if you chip or crack a panel, since replacement is usually needed unless it

is a small chip

Not quite as clear as Acrylic

Acrylic Tanks are great, they are light and easy to move. As well as easy to fix and repair.

However they do have some downfalls as well. I tend to prefer them myself, especially in larger

tanks because of the weight issue alone. I also like the flexibility of Acrylic, it can be cut and

modified much easier. However it also scratches much easier too, this is the one thing many

people prefer glass. I’ll leave it up to you.

Acrylic Aquarium Pros

Super clear (Unless you get a hazy used one but it can be buffed and polished)

Super lightweight compared to glass

Easier to drill for bulkhead fittings

Can be refinished, re-polished and repaired if they break

Less likely to break from impact, Acrylic has a bit more give than glass. I’ve dropped

a 50lb lighted hood down on a tank full of water and it didn’t break. The impact was

tremendous.

Acrylic Aquarium Cons

Scratches super easy

Harder to clean because you have to be so careful not to scratch it

Expense – Acrylic tanks are typically more expensive per gallon

Some are not standard sizes, making it more difficult to find lids or lights to fit perfectly

SHAPE AND POSITION

Originally, there were only the rectangular aquariums but today there are unlimited numbers

of possible shapes: square, triangle, column-shaped, pyramid shaped, etc. and not every fish

can be kept in every type of aquarium.

The position where the aquarium is to be kept is of importance as certain fish species will not

tolerate the slamming of doors. The aquarium should be kept in a decorative and safe

position, away from direct sunlight to avoid algal bloom.

2.1 PROCEDURE FOR CONSTRUCTING AN AQUARIA TANK

Put your prepared glass pieces on a flat surface

Collect one of the glass panes for the base and set it on a flat table and the other four

(4) pieces place adjacent at sides

Apply a bead of the adhesive round the edges of the bottom panel and at two side edges

of the front and back panel with the aid of the hanger.

Run a continuous 1/4 inch bead with no gaps or bubbles. Install the back glass panel on

the bottom and the side panels are fixed inside the back and front panels.

When all the panels have been set in place the silicone is smoothed out with the tip of

your finger and the panel supported at the corners with a masking tape. Thus, the

aquarium is constructed such that the two end pieces of glass fit inside of the back and

front panes and the front, back and two side panes set on top of the bottom base pane

of glass. The best bonding results are achieved by applying only as much silicone as

you can within 3 to 5 minutes, because after this, the silicone tends to skin over and

won’t bond well to the glass.

2.2 STEPS IN INSTALLING THE AQUARIUM TANK

After testing for leakages, wipe out the tank using a clean, damp cloth and place it on

it stand

Cover the bottom with a layer of clean sand (about 2.5 cm thick)

Add the aquarium gravel and smooth it out with the air wall tubes and hose covered

Add various rocks on the bottom which enhance the aquarium and also give fish a place

to hide

Add the water by placing a small bowl on the gravel and pour the water into the bowl.

Let it run over the sides, filling the tank without disturbing the gravel or rocks.

When the aquarium is full. Test the water with pH meter before adding live aquarium

plants and fishes

Float the fishes, which are still in oxygenated water-bags or containers from the store

into the tanks

Put the cover in place to prevent the fish from jumping

FIG 3: wooden frame for aquarium construction

Fig 4: setting of the wooden frame for the construction

Fig 5: bottom plan of the aquarium

Fig 6: Coating of the glass

Fig 7: A complete aquarium

CHAPTER THREE

3.0 AQUARIUM MAINTENANCE

An aquarium is basically the resemblance of an underwater ecosystem. In order to maintain

similar conditions to the natural environment and habitat of the species that live in the tank, it

is necessary to maintain constant water conditions as well as optimal water quality levels

specifically required by each organism in the aquarium tank. To reach these conditions, it is

essential to be familiar with the right type of equipment in order to supply the appropriate

environmental conditions that each species requires. Whether you choose to have a saltwater

tank or a freshwater tank, you will need to take care and protect your system and equipment,

however, as salt is a corrosive agent, a freshwater tank may be more recommended for

beginners because it may be easier to maintain. Management practices in an aquarium include:

3.0.1 CHANGING THE WATER

A key part of aquarium maintenance is the water change, which should be performed about on

time. In most cases, 10-15% of the tank volume is sufficient. A good method is to replace the

water extracted while vacuuming the gravel, which will eliminate uneaten foods and other

residues that settle on the substrate. It is highly recommended to check the water parameters of

both the tank and replacement water.

3.0.2 FILTRATION

Both freshwater and marine aquaria need aquarium filters. Physical and soluble chemical waste

can accumulate in aquaria and aquarium filters help remove these wastes. Most fish

accustomed to their natural environments will not be able to survive in aquaria without the help

of aquarium filters because they are not used to the small water volume. In a small, confined

volume of water, there is no waste dilution system that happens in the natural aquatic

environment. Whether you have a large tank or a small one, you will still need a filtration

system to keep the fish healthy and alive. Toxic ammonia can be a serious problem and you

cannot keep changing the water as often as it needs to be changed. Water in aquaria has a

tendency to become contaminated due to uneaten plant food and waste from excrement. The

health of aquaria can be in jeopardy if contamination level is too high. For healthy aquaria

maintenance, Filtration procedures are employed which help remove contamination.

The three categories of filtration

There are three types of filtration that are necessary for the health of any aquarium:

Mechanical

Chemical

Biological

Before choosing a filtration system, it is important to understand all three, and how they will

benefit your aquarium.

Mechanical Filtration

Mechanical filtration is the straining of solid waste particles from the aquarium water. To limit

the production of ammonia in aquarium water, you need to limit the filter waste products before

they get a chance to decay. Decay is not only very dangerous because it causes high levels of

ammonia in the fish water but it is also something that gives your aquaria a bad appearance.

Fish gills can also produce ammonia as a waste matter, as do fish excretions. Fish food rotting

away can have the same effect. Mechanical filters are designed in a way that they will not

remove microscopic bacteria and algae and they also won't remove any solids trapped by gravel

or your decorations. They have no effect on dissolved ammonia either. Mechanical filtration

media include bonded floss media which have the largest openings, loose floss media, as well

as paper cartridges which have the smallest openings and clean sponges.

To certain degrees these items are reusable. Finer particles may be easier to catch with small

openings of a filter media but they can also become clogged. The idea is to have a mechanical

filter that traps enough solids to keep the water clear without frequent plugging. A large filter

area clogs slower than a small filter. Smaller and smaller particles are trapped when filter media

gets dirty until it can no longer pass water.

Fig 8: filter foam

Biological Filtration

To build a successful aquarium you need nitrogen cycle management and to do that you need

to foster essential bacteria growth. Ammonia produced as a result of excretion and

decomposition of organic matter can become toxic and fish will not be able to survive in it.

Ammonia needs to be first broken down into nitrites which are less toxic and then into nitrates.

This breaking down takes places when bacterial processes oxidize ammonia. The idea is to

produce nitrates which can be taken up by plants thriving in the environment as fertilizer but

the problem is that most aquarium environments are not replicas of natural environments.

You may have more fish producing ammonia than you have bacteria and plants. The small

volume of a fish aquarium actually has higher ammonia levels than anywhere else.

Bacteria required for biological breakdown of ammonia grow on surfaces within the aquarium.

Using a biological filter in such a situation can be very helpful. This filter uses a chemically

inert porous sponge so bacteria can develop on the massive surface area. A biological filter is

necessary when you have a large quantity of fish.

Biological filters increase the capacity of the bacteria colony and increase the available oxygen

dissolved in the water.

Fig 9: Bio balls

Chemical Filtration

The removal of dissolved wastes from aquarium water is known as chemical filtration. At the

molecular level, Polar and Non-polar dissolved wastes can exist in aquaria. There are several

methods through which these wastes can be removed. The process of chemical filtration can

be achieved by filtering the aquarium water through gas activated carbon or through protein

skimming. Activated carbon works for non-polar wastes while protein skimming is ideal for

polar wastes.

When coal is warmed in the presence of steam at very high temperatures the carbon develops

huge numbers of tiny pores which is known as Granular activated carbon (GAC). GAC causes

the non-polar wastes to be trapped by processes of adsorption and ion exchange. Through the

process known as molecular sieving, GAC also removes heavy metals and organic molecules

in water. These molecules give the water smells and colours you don't need in an aquarium

setting.

This form of macro porous activated carbon is not as dense as GACs used to filter air and that

is why they float in water. Phosphate leaching from GACs is a problem which can become a

hurdle for reef aquaria and that is why activated carbon should only be bought from reliable

companies. These manufacturers give the GACs an acid wash which to minimize ash content

to attain lower phosphate leaching levels. These GACs will also keep the aquarium water safe

from pH shifts of any kind. Pre-soaking your activated carbon for a few weeks before use can

further lower the risk of phosphate leaching.

In order to remove specific chemicals, special chemical filtration media have been developed

like zeolite clay removes ammonia from aquarium water but it will disrupt or delay the

establishment of natural biological filtration.

This is why this particular filtration media should be used only for short periods of time and is

not a long term solution.

For saltwater aquaria like reef, protein skimmers work best. The way it works is by removing

dissolved organic wastes before decomposition takes place. The polar nature of the organic

molecules will cause air bubbles and the foam that forms as a result can be skimmed off.

Fig 10: Activated carbon

3.0.3 VACUUMING

A gravel vacuum is a piece of aquarium equipment. It is a rigid, plastic tube, generally about

2" in diameter which attaches to one end of a siphon tube to allow you to clean the debris from

part of the aquarium gravel with each of your weekly 10-15% water changes.

Once you have your siphon started, you will need to place the end of the gravel vacuum into

the gravel. With your finger or thumb blocking the bucket end of the siphon, gently slide the

vacuum end of the gravel vacuum into the gravel. Keep the tube moving in a straight line, and

do not move the vacuum back and forth or up and down (this will just make a mess).

Once the end of the gravel vacuum is in the gravel as far as it will reasonably go, release your

finger or thumb from the bucket end of the tube. Water should start flowing through the tube,

and the gravel in the tube should start shaking, bouncing, and churning. Debris should be

flowing down the siphon and into the bucket.

Once the water coming through the gravel is mostly clear, stop the flow of the siphon by placing

your finger or thumb over the bucket end of the siphon tube. This should stop the flow of water

and allow the gravel to settle.

3.0.4 ALGAE REMOVAL

The appearance and growth of algae in an aquarium is not necessarily bad. In fact, it is the

natural order of things. It shows that your aquarium is well balanced and healthy. Only when

the algae are allowed to grow out of control and cover everything is it a problem. Left

unchecked, it can cover the glass - in colours ranging from black to bright green in freshwater,

or even pink, purple, or burgundy in saltwater - making viewing your beautiful inhabitants

impossible. It can also quickly cover the decorations, diminishing the appeal of the entire

environment. Algae keeps things looking natural and provides a food source for fish and

microorganisms. Thus, your goal should not be to eliminate all algae. Instead, it should be to

manage its growth to keep the population at a desirable level.

Many aquarists who encounter hair or other tough algae treat the symptoms, not the problem.

For example, they may bleach all their decorations and gravel and then treat the water with a

de-chlorinator, placing the health of their fish at risk, only to discover the algae making a fast

comeback within days. Knowing what factors contribute to algae growth, and your control

options, will help you keep a healthy, well-balanced aquarium.

3.0.5 FEEDING

Fish, like any other organism, need a supply of calories to sustain their metabolism. Properly

feeding your fish helps them to stay healthy and is helpful in maintaining your aquarium. It is

important to know the types of foods your fish need and how much food they need, which

differs from species to species. In most cases, fish only need to be fed once a day and you only

need to feed a small amount. Your fish should be able to get enough nutrients from the food

they can consume in less than two minutes, as long as the food provides for their nutritional

needs. Food that stays in your tank longer than that can get caught in your gravel, decorations,

or filter and will begin to decay, contributing to poor water quality. This poor water quality

will increase disease susceptibility and filter maintenance. It could also increase the need for

water changes, which in turn stress the filtration system and the fish, again increasing disease

susceptibility. Small, regular feedings provide fish with the nutrients they need and keep your

tank cleaner than large or more frequent feedings.

Over feeding can also contribute to algae growth, which can be unsightly, remove vital oxygen

from the water, and increase your tank maintenance chores.

Most fish, like most cold blooded vertebrates, are primarily carnivorous, consuming mostly

insects, insect larvae, worms, grubs, various shrimps and similar animals, and smaller fish,

some even consuming small amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals in the wild. However,

almost all fish also graze on live plants, and there are very few that do not consume at least

some algae. So, you can see that most fish are really omnivorous and need to get foods that

contain both animal and vegetable matter to remain healthy.

The foods are engineered to provide a complete and balanced diet for your fish and are available

in a variety of forms: floating pellets, sinking pellets, granules, tablets, and flakes.

Flakes are the most common type of processed foods, and are available in a very wide

variety. Some flakes are engineered to provide the nutritional requirements of specific

varieties or species of fish, and others are designed to counter nutritional imbalances,

while still others are balanced to enhance colour or growth or to encourage spawning.

Pellets are available in forms that are denser or lighter than water. This allows the fish

to feed in a more natural way if the right pellet is provided. Some fish prefer to feed off

the bottom of the tank while others prefer to feed off the surface. Like flakes, pelleted

foods are available in many varieties, each with a specific purpose.

Granules are like very small, hard flakes or tiny pellets. Currently only a limited variety

of fish food granules are available, usually engineered for the general nutritional needs

of small community fish.

Tablets are really just large flat pellets. Most tablets are of a sinking variety, but there

are some that are engineered to adhere to the side of the aquarium so that you may

observe your fish feeding. Most of the sinking tablets are engineered to provide for the

nutritional needs of scavengers and bottom feeders.

3.1 AQUARIUM MAINTENANCE ROUTINE

The schedule for cleaning your fish tank will depend primarily on:

Tank Placement: The reason the setup is important when it comes to maintenance and cleaning

is that if you place the tank in a location hard to get to, chances are it will not be cleaned on a

regular schedule. Therefore, make sure the placement of the tank is such to give you adequate

room.

Tank Size: Interestingly, a larger tank actually requires less maintenance than a smaller tank.

The reason is that the larger tank has more water volume, meaning the waste excreted by the

fish along with chemicals and other particles are dispersed over a much larger area. Therefore,

if you buy a 10-gallon tank opposed to a 50-gallon tank, you can expect to clean the smaller

one more often.

Filtration System: A filtration system is crucial to keeping the tank clean and the environment

healthy. Many people will use biological filtration, which allows the right amount of "good"

bacteria to grow while maintaining the proper level of Nitrite coupled with a mechanical filter

or chemical filter. The mechanical consists of a box that fits within the tank in which some type

of media is used to filter out waste and other particles. The chemical filter uses chemical media

such as carbon or chemical resins to absorb the waste.

Feeding Habits: One of the most common mistakes made by fish owners is that they feed the

fish too much and too often. When there is excess food in the water, it causes pollution.

3.1.1 DAILY

Fish, just like any other pet, need to be cared for on a daily basis. Although fish do not have

the same level of requirements for daily care, they do need to be looked after on a consistent

basis.

Feeding: Feed the fish, again taking care to feed only as much as what will be eaten

immediately.

Water Temperature: Check the water temperature, keeping in mind temperatures will

fluctuate throughout the day. Therefore, test the water each morning and then again in the

evening. To maintain a healthy tank, you should keep a chart of your findings so you can

identify any problems before they turn out of control.

Equipment Check: Make sure the filter, heater, and lights are working properly

Behaviour Check: Take a few minutes to watch the fish to see if they are swimming normally.

Additionally, look at their skin, looking for any sign of disease.

Water Check: Look at the water to ensure it is not cloudy, does not have a foul odour, and

that nothing out of the norm is floating around

3.1.2 WEEKLY

In addition to the daily responsibilities of owning fish, there are certain things that will need to

be done on a weekly basis as well.

Plants: If you keep live plants in your fish tank, be sure any dead leaves are removed and excess

plant growth trimmed.

Algae: Using an algae magnet or scraper, clean off algae from the front glass as well as

decorations.

Water Change: Using a siphon hose, remove large debris from the surface and then with a

bucket nearby, siphon about 15% of the tank’s water into the bucket. When finished, replace

the water with clean tap water that has been treated for chlorine or chloramines. While doing

this, you might place a stiff plastic divider between the area you are cleaning and the fish so

that you do not accidentally suck any up in the tubing.

Additionally, with the siphon running, you can tap the tip down into the gravel to help remove any

fallen debris.

Glass: Take a clean cloth and spray it with window cleaner, away from the tank so that none

gets in the water and then, simply clean off the front and side glass areas.

Water Changes

A key part of aquarium maintenance is the water change, which should be performed about

every two weeks. In most cases, 10-15% of the tank volume is sufficient. A good method is to

replace the water extracted while vacuuming the gravel, which will eliminate uneaten foods

and other residues that settle on the substrate.

It is highly recommended to check the water parameters of both the tank and replacement water.

Most tap water (city water) contains either chlorine or chloramine. Chlorine will air out rather

quickly (kept in an aerated bucked for twenty-four hours); chloramine (chloramine = chlorine

+ ammonia) will not. Using a water conditioner will neutralize the chlorine in both cases, but

ammonia will still be present in the latter. It has to be broken down by the nitrifying bacteria

present in the aquarium. This may take longer than your fish can tolerate.

Other elements of municipal water may be phosphates, iron, and other heavy metals. To find

out about your tap water chemistry, call your local water company.

Well water is usually harder than tap water, but is chlorine/chloramine free.

Filtered water should also be checked on a regular basis and should be considered part of your

aquarium maintenance routine. The filter membranes could be damaged or may require

replacement prior to the expiration date.

Testing Aquarium Water

Water chemistry is not visible; therefore, it is vital to check it on a regular basis. The best way

to make this a routine is to check on the tank chemistry while changing the water.

The vital parameters are pH, nitrates, nitrites, and carbonate hardness (salinity for marine

tanks).

Stability is the main factor with pH. pH in the range of 6.5 – 7.5 is suitable for most species,

but they can adjust if slightly out of range.

KH (carbonate hardness) is the indicator of pH stability. It should be kept under close

observation if it comes close to 4.5 dH (degree hardness) or 80 ppm. You must take action if it

decreases any further.

Half a teaspoon of baking soda per twenty-five gallons of water will raise the kH by about 1

dH (17.8 ppm).

Nitrites should be undetectable at all times (except during cycling). If you detect nitrites make

sure you check on ammonia as well.

Nitrates should be kept below 10 ppm in freshwater and 5 ppm in marine and reef (preferably

0 ppm).

3.2 AQUARIUM FILTRATION

The proper function of the filter is essential. Filter inserts (floss, Algone, activated carbon)

should be changed at least every four weeks. A high fish load may require shorter periods.

Trapped particles will decompose in the filter as they would in the tank. The filter should also

be cleaned once a month (do not touch the bio-wheels, if present) by using the water extracted

from the tank during the water change.

3.3 MAINTENANCE PROBLEMS

The design of a large aquarium must take into account the requirements of the specimens,

especially since exhibits at modern aquariums include all types of aquatic organisms:

mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates as well as fishes. Among the many

factors that must be considered are traffic flow patterns of visitors, reflections off glass,

acoustics, and tank-maintenance problems such as water clarity, dissolved wastes, temperature,

tank decor, disease treatment, and nutrition.

The primary requirement for maintaining aquatic organisms is water quality. The water supply

must be free of pollutants, including sewage and industrial wastes, and it should be in gaseous

equilibrium with the atmosphere to ensure adequate oxygen and to avoid super-saturation with

nitrogen. In recirculating systems, water treatment must not only ensure clarity of the water but

also purification of metabolic wastes. The source of fresh water is usually water supplies from

which chlorine and other additives have been removed, either by carbon filtration or by the

addition of a chemical. Marine organisms can be maintained in either natural or artificial

seawater; the latter has the advantage of being initially free from disease-causing organisms

and pollutants but may not be as suitable for some organisms.

Water is continuously recirculated in closed systems and is only renewed periodically.

Metabolic wastes must be treated since they are not continuously flushed from the system. An

important problem is that ammonia must be rapidly removed or transformed because it is

harmful even at very low concentrations. In the aquarium the bacteria that convert ammonia to

nitrite reside primarily in the filter material, and a slow sand filter with a large surface area is

usually provided to ensure their abundance. Plant growth in the aquarium, especially in marine

systems, is not usually sufficient to utilize all the nitrate produced by bacteria from nitrite.

Although some aquariums have operated many years with a minimum of water renewal, it is

normally necessary to replace from 1 to 10 percent of the water per month to maintain a low

level of nitrates. The use of charcoal in both fresh water and seawater systems helps to slow

the accumulation of nitrogenous wastes. Metabolic wastes also cause an increase in the acidity

of the water. Carbonate compounds are commonly used to maintain an optimal level of acidity,

particularly when water renewal is infrequent.

Semi-closed systems are essentially the same as closed except that there is a constant

connection to the water supply, and the problem of dissolved wastes is controlled by the regular

addition of new water; this system is less costly than the open one with regard to temperature

control and pumping.

Filters vary from simple flow-through systems to completely automated recirculating systems,

with special provisions for monitoring and controlling the physical and chemical characteristics

of the water.

The turnover rate, or rate of water replacement, of individual aquariums is important and should

be no more than two hours. In addition, aeration by means of air stones (diffusers) should be

provided to guard against asphyxia in the event of an unexpected water-supply failure.

Fishes and invertebrates can also be maintained without filtration or aeration in aquariums that

are “balanced” with plants; however, the balance between plants and animals is very difficult

to attain on a large scale or even in a normally stocked aquarium, especially a seawater

aquarium.

Freshwater pools for mammals and birds present special problems. They generally require a

higher filtration rate and greater filter capacity because they accumulate large amounts of faecal

wastes. Air-breathing animals, however, are not highly sensitive to water quality; thus,

chemical treatments, such as chlorination, which would kill fishes, can be used to control

bacteria and to improve water clarity. Seawater formulas are simpler; for example, a 2 per cent

sodium chloride solution will satisfactorily maintain whales and dolphins. Seals and sea lions

have been kept in fresh water, but this may increase their eye problems because of the osmotic

effect of the fresh water on the eye tissues.

REFERENCES

Esther JJV. (1998). Encyclopedia of Tropical Fish. Edn 2, Rebo Productions Ltd. The

Netherlands.

Gupta SK, Gupta PC. (2006). General and Applied Ichthyology. Schand Publishers, New

Delhi, 504-519.

Kutz M. (2002). Handbook of material Selection. John Wiley and Sons, 431,.

Pandy K, Shukla JP. (2005). Fish and fisheries. National Offset Printers, Meerut 2005, 461-

473.

Scripps EW. (2006). DIY Networks Aquariums Co. Ltd. Tennessee, USA DIYnet.com