Are You Prepared?

Horse911Are You Prepared?

Before An Emergency: Preplans and Preparedness:

It is up to you to have a plan—do not depend on others to rescue you or your horses. Consider what

events you might experience: in CT we may face hurricanes, flooding, tornados, chemical events, or

blizzards.

•Walk your property and consider various scenarios: what would you do? Create a disaster plan today.

•Can trees and brush be trimmed? Can fencelines be improved or reinforced? Can structures be

reinforced with tie-downs or upgrades? Secure or store any items which can become airborne.

•Keep barn aisles clear from all excess items such as trunks, chairs etc.

•Consider installing lightening rods and sprinkler systems. Paint your main power supply box with fluorescent

paint (to stand out in the dark) and be sure that the area leading to the main power source is clearly marked.

•Consider what you would do if you were without power for an extended period of time: if you have a

well, will you have access to water? Do you have medications etc that need to be refrigerated? Consider

installing a generator. If you do install a generator, have an electrician install a breaker box.

•Always have ABC fire extinguishers in barns, trucks and home. Also have horse & human first aid kits.

•Review your insurance policies annually. NEVER assume something is covered—always check with your

agent. Go over all policies: homeowners, auto, equine liability/surgical/mortality.

•In winter, make sure to keep driveways, gates and doorways clear of snow, and clear enough so that

emergency vehicles have enough space for access.

•Create a “Horse Bug Out Box” & first aid kit.

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Plan an evacuation route, what method of transport you

will use and who will assist you:

•Organize an emergency team with your neighbors; identify all available people

and equipment (trailer, trucks etc.) and establish an emergency phone tree to

communicate amongst the team. There is power in numbers!

•Practice evacuation drills with the ‘team’ to make sure you have covered all

contingencies.

•Identify yourselves to your town emergency planner and/or FD and review the

plan with them.

•Provide them with an emergency phone tree for contact purposes.

•If your horse is difficult to load, work on training now-do NOT wait until an

emergency.

•Identify alternate evacuation routes in advance. Some routes may be closed

either due to weather, or by local authorities. Have maps on hand, and check to

see if the alternate routes are suitable for trucks/trailers.

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Where To Go?

• Work on agreements now: do not wait until an event to discuss costs, expectations, reservation of stalls. Get everything in writing, either in a contract or as Memorandum of Understanding (MOU). Who is responsible for caring for your horses, and who is providing supplies? How far in advance do you need to notify them?

• Plan now for where you would go should you need to evacuate.

• Consider multiple scenarios and the location of your planned move: will this facility need to be evacuated too? Can you reach them in bad weather? Have a secondary and tertiary location planned as well.

• What type of facility are you moving to? Can they handle any special needs: IE stallions, pregnant mares, foals? Do they have fencing that your horses will respect (wire or electric for example)?

• Will this facility be handling only your horses, or multiple barn’s evacuees? Never assume you will be the only ones to be there—emergencies can cause changes in plans….

• Make sure you add their contact info to your emergency paperwork as well, you might need to contact them while you are in route…

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HORSE BUG OUT BOX

Before disaster strikes, create a “Bug Out Box” for your horses. Consider a plastic

tack trunk-preferably in bright colors such as orange or red. Store necessary items

in advance: so that you can quickly and effectively evacuate without wasting time

trying to gather or find items you will need. The box should include only “necessary”

items to save space, but you should include anything that will be important for you to

bring along…the following items are basic recommendations from CHC, and should

just be considered a starting point:

2 cotton lead ropes, longe line, 2 rubber buckets, 4 double end snaps, duct tape,

masking tape, fly mask, pocket knife, scissors, hole punch, legwraps, towels, handi-

wipes, leather or cotton halter, black permanent marker, halter/bridle tags (at least

6), pen and notepad, photocopies of paperwork (not originals) coggins/vaccine

records/registration papers enclosed in ziplock bags, Flyspray, hoofpick, hoof knife,

rasp, twitch, wire cutters, trash bags, shovel, tarps, bungee cords, heavy gloves,

maps of area, small tool kit (screw drivers, pliers etc), small ABC fire extinguisher,

horse first aid kit, roll of string, flashlight & extra batteries.

First Aid Kit for Horses:Again, these are general recommendations. Each kit should be tailored to your individual needs:

Antibiotic ointment

Antibiotic eye ointment

Bandage scissors

Bandage tape

Vet Wrap

Betadine scrub

Cotton rolls

Sterile eye rinse

Saline wound rinse

Gauze pads

Hydrogen peroxide

Isopropyl alcohol

Latex gloves

Non-adherent wound pads

Digital thermometer

Tweezers

Any medications routinely administered to horses

Clean towels

Masking tape

Clippers

Hoofpick

Tongue Depressors (for applying ointment etc)

Large syringe (useful for wound flushing)

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In addition to PRE-PLANNING, there are

additional steps you can take

to prepare for all contingencies.

On the following screens are helpful tips to

consider…………..IN ADVANCE!

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Keep a 2 week supply of food, supplements

and meds always on hand.

This should be in addition to any supplements and/or meds

You put in your ‘bug out box’.

Whether you remove your horses or decide to ‘shelter in place’ this

will be crucial. During a disaster, the availability of these items

will be scarce at best.

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Trailer and towing vehicles

• Make a visual inspection of all vehicles: make sure they are fueled and ready to use.

• Have a first aid kit human/horse in both truck and trailer.

• Have a tool kit in both truck & trailer.

• Have emergency items on hand such as flares, orange road triangles, ABC fire extinguishers and jumper cables.

• Regularly inspect trailer floors for rotting or warping. Decay in trailer floors is dangerous!

• Regularly inspect towing vehicle breaks for signs of excessive wear.

• Regularly inspect tire pressure, and always have a spare for both trailer and truck.

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Basic Horse Health

• Have a basic understanding of your horse’s body: know how to take pulse, respiration and temperature. Ask your vet to show you, or enroll in a basic equine first aid course. Know what is normal for your horse in terms of water intake, food consumption and temperature. Average pulse rate for horse; 30 to 42 beats minute, average respiratory rate; 12-20 breaths per minute. Average Capillary refill time: 2 seconds. Average temperature 99.5 to 101.5. Any temp over 102.5 should result in a call to a vet. Temps over 103 are serious and need to be treated immediately.

• Learn how to recognize signs of distress in your horse. Storms or other disasters can cause stress on horses which may result in colic or shock.

• If an emergency happens during hot weather, be on the watch for heat exhaustion/heat stroke. Pay special attention to foals or pregnant mares as they may have a harder time with heat. Signs of heat stroke include elevated temperature, stumbling or weakness, rapid breathing or pulse, dehydration or refusal to eat. If you suspect heatstroke, move the horse to shade immediately. Use fans or water to cool the horse down. Applying ice to the jugular vein may also be used.

• Biosecurity: Make sure your horses are up to date on vaccinations (especially tetanus which can be caused from injury), as they may have to be moved to another facility and be housed near other horses. Keep horses from outside barns separated if possible to reduce chances of spreading any disease. Try to limit sharing of equipment and other items between horses-especially buckets. DO NOT submerge the hoses in buckets when watering horses. Also wash hands when moving between horses that are not from the same herd.

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Paperwork:

• Be prepared to identify your horse if it gets lost or loose. Authorities will require some identification in order to return your horse. (consider how many bay horses with no markings exist-give as much information as possible).

• Take photos of your horses in advance: 4-one from each side, and front & back. Write down tattoos, brands and note scars.

• Make photocopies of all important documents: Registration paperwork, bill of sale, coggins, health certificates, vaccination records, show records, insurance policy, and any identifying information. Keep both the copies and originals in ziplock bags. Put the copies in the bug out box, and originals in safe place on your person. Consider also scanning all documents and adding to CD or thumb drives as another way to backup and add to ease of transport/storage.

• Also take photos of your property in advance, as well as any vehicles, and equipment. These might be needed for insurance purposes or for identification after the emergency is over.

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Determine how water can be stored or accessed during

emergencies:

Horses need on average approximately 1 gallon of water for every 100lbs body water: IE a

1,000lb horse might consume 10-12 gallons a day. However, consumption varies greatly dependant

upon weather, age of horse, and activity or stress levels.

Look at filling troughs immediately prior to an event and have a supply of 55 gallon drums that can be

filled for future use by you or emergency teams.

If there are ponds or steams on your farm, look at how safe they would be for your horses to access

and if appropriate, prepare an area for them to access the water.

Warning: If your land tends to flood (swampy of low lying) access to steams or ponds may not be feasible.

Be aware that wells and ponds may be contaminated if severe flooding occurs. To purify water, add

2 drops of chlorine bleach per quart and let stand for half hour.

Never trust automatic waters if you have to leave your horses on their own—fill buckets and troughs

for horses to obtain water.

Be careful about what types of containers are used to store water, certain types of chemical containers

are not suitable due to potential residue.

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Choose an ID method either permanent or temporary

and test the temporary method well before an

emergency (you may want to consider discussing

some of the items below with your vet).

Permanent Identification

Temporary Identification

1. Tattoos2. Brands 3. Etched Hooves4. Microchip 5. Photos (front,rear,left.right)

1. Halter Tags (luggage tags will work!)2. Fetlock ID Bands3. Neck Bands4. Duct Tape w/Permanent Ink5. Torso Painting (nontoxic)6. Hoof Marking7. Index card (with pertinent info, wrap in plastic bag,

wrap with duct tape to inside of halter)

8. Body Clip Your Tel# On Horses Neck

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Don’t Forget the “Little Animals”

• Make plans in advance for barn cats & dogs too. Be aware that if you plan to head to a shelter, most human shelters do not allow pets.

• Have extra food & meds on hand for barn dogs/cats.

• Have leashes & crates enough for all animals. You should not place more than one animal in each crate. Even friendly animals can become aggressive when under stress.

• Dogs should be wearing collars and tags at all times. Consider microchipping all little animals.

• Keep copies handy of all vaccination and health paperwork-including rabies certificates.

• Be aware that often small animals can sense urgency, and they may flee or hide if you start taking action. Consider addressing small animal needs first, or confining them until you can get them secured as well.

• If you must leave little animals, leave enough food and water for several days. Also post information for first responders should they enter your property while you are gone.

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Evacuation Without Horses

In some scenarios, the need to leave your horses in place may be your only line of defense. If you must vacate

the property and leave your horses, consider the following:

• Alert your town emergency planner and/or FD that you will be leaving your horses-provide them with your

address & phone number in advance, as well as number and descriptions of all animals. Leave a secondary

number as well in case they are unable to reach you.

• Leave adequate hay and water to cover at least 72 hours (minimally).

• Prepare additional source of hay and water to extend past that time and in the event you are not allowed on

the property after the 72 hour period, advise the emergency responders that you require assistance in either

getting to your facility or instruct them as to where the additional food and water supplies are located.

• Leave contact information in a visible location for responders who may enter your property.

• Never leave horses tied. Take time to consider location of horses and type of emergency: if there is flooding,

make sure horses are not trapped in stalls, if there is wind, make sure horses in pastures are not

endangered by large trees or debris etc.

• Mark your horses as noted previously: microchips, brands, halter tags, permanent marker.

• Also alert neighbors that your horses are being left in case they can return before you.

• Place your farm address in a visible location for first responder to find. They may be unable to determine the

address if property damage is severe.

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Decide what is the safest housing for your

horse…indoor or outdoor:

This is often a personal preference. If you plan on leaving your horses;

the pre-planning step of preparing your pastures and paddocks

we discussed earlier will become critical.

Make special note of natural features such as ponds or streams if they are

near barns or pastures: these could cause flooding during the event.

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Sheltering in Place with Your Horses

If you are staying with your horses, do not assume that you will not be evacuated later. Emergency officials

might order you out during or after the event—be prepared.

If you are ordered to evacuate at any point: LEAVE IMMEDIATELY! Never stay.

Never assume you will be rescued-first responders might not be able to reach you.

Be aware that you may not have access to veterinary care or feed and grain supplies for some time

after an event. Be prepared by having first aid kits ready, as well as extra feed & grain, and any additional

medications that your horse may need.

Have portable radio(s), and flashlights, as well as enough batteries. (you can never have too many batteries).

Properly mark your farm entrances with reflective numbers, so your property can be easily seen by first

responders.

If you have advance notice of an impending storm/disaster—remember to charge all equipment:: cell phones,

laptops, rechargeable flashlights & batteries.

During the Emergency

• If you are experiencing a hurricane, beware of the storm’s “eye”. This is the center of

the storm which is calm. After the eye has passed, the winds will resume-often much

stronger.

• Stay tuned to local radio & TV. Listen for updates and instructions. Hurricanes can

change direction, blizzards can change forecasted amounts, and minor flooding could

quickly become a torrent.

• Do not attempt to go outside during any event—whether it is a tornado, hurricane,

flood or blizzard. You could be putting yourself in danger.

• Above all—stay calm. You will be of no use to yourself or your animals if you panic.

• If your horses panic: do not attempt to physically restrain a panicked horse unless

you know your horses and feel you are capable of doing so. You will only be

endangering yourself if you take unnecessary risks. Only blindfold a horse if you are

confident that your horse will tolerate it—many horses do not and it will make a bad

situation worse.

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After the Emergency

• Stay calm and assess the damage. If possible, notify friends/relatives that you are safe.

• Do not immediately turn horses out if they are inside: inspect all pastures and fencelines first. Pay particular attention to fallen wires, or debris blown into the pasture areas. Check gates to see if they are still in working order. Do not allow horses loose in any areas that have standing water, as the water may be contaminated or have unseen debris underneath.

• NEVER ASSUME DOWNED WIRES ARE DEAD! Electricity will travel, and power might not have been shut down.

• If you have suffered a blizzard, beware of drifts or ice under the snow. Check rooftops to see if there is a large amount of snow—barns have been known to collapse from snow. Beware of the footing, horses can fall on ice and injure themselves.

• Photograph any damage, and immediately notify your insurance company.

• Secure items and facilities as much as possible: remove debris etc.

• Check feed & grain for moisture. Inspect closely: never feed moldy/mildewy hay/grain as it can cause colic or death. Any feedstuffs that have been submerged in water or have chemical residue should not be fed.

• Displaced wildlife may be a problem, so stay alert for animals in barns and pastures.

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Unpleasant Issues:

• After an emergency, you may have to euthanize animals, or dispose of carcasses. Carefully

consider what you would do if you had one or more large animal carcasses that needed to be

removed. Some of the options include burial, composting, rendering, incinerating, or landfill

disposal. It is important to consider this issue now, so that you are not having to make important

decisions about an emotional issue during a stressful time. Ultimately your choice of disposal will

be based on financial, emotional, practical, and safety issues.

• Discuss the issue of euthanasia with your vet in advance.

• Burying of a carcass is not always advisable or possible. Know your town ordinances—some

towns prohibit burying of large animals. If you must bury a horse, make sure it is not near wells or

streams, so that you do not inadvertently contaminate water supplies. Take precautions so that

barn dogs or local wildlife cannot dig up the carcass. Burial should be at least 300 feet up gradient

or 150 feet down gradient from any well • at least 165 feet from a property line or public use area,

and at least 100 feet from a water body, stream, or drainage way.

• In “some” cases it is possible to compost carcasses, again, discussion with your vet or the

department of agriculture in advance is strongly recommended. Simply covering a carcass with

manure is NOT considered composting. It is a complex process which requires certain amounts of

moisture and other elements to ensure that proper breakdown takes place. Under optimum

conditions, composting a carcass completely may take 6 to 9 months.

• Incinerating a large carcass should be undertaken by a facility that is equipped for it. It is

inadvisable to attempt to simply burn a carcass yourself, as the heat generated may not be

enough to completely break down the body.

Additional Resources

• CT Department of Emergency Management (DEMHS): (860) 256-0800 (800) 397-8876 www.ct.gov/demhs

• Ready gov. www.ready.gov (emergency readiness).

• The American Red Cross (ARC): www.redcross.org (202) 303-4498

• The American Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA): www.aspca.org (212) 876-7700

• National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration (NOAA): www.noaa.gov

• Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA): www.fema.gov

• CT Horse Council www.cthorsecouncil.org

If you are ordered to evacuate: LEAVE IMMEDIATELY! This used to be

a neighborhood before Katrina struck. Search and rescue teams needed

to search this rubble for the bodies of those who stayed behind…..

Do not rely on the government or others to save you-its up to YOU to be prepared.

This photo was taken at Bay St. Louis MS by rescue teams arriving two weeks after

Katrina struck. The residents had no supplies. The ability to find resources for

animals after an emergency will be even smaller….Your horses are depending on you.