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Aromantic’s Free Newsletter For Customers and Subscribers Issue no 33, May 2011

Aromantic Newsletter 33

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Page 1: Aromantic Newsletter 33

Aromantic’s Free Newsletter

For Customers and Subscribers

Issue no 33, May 2011

Page 2: Aromantic Newsletter 33

2 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011

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Hours of Business:

9am-5pm Mondays - Fridays

17 Tytler Street

Forres

Moray

IV36 1EL

Scotland

Tel: +44 (0)1309 696900

Fax: +44 (0)1309 696911

e-mail: [email protected]

www.aromantic.co.uk

Aromantic is a unique company

on the forefront of providing organic and

natural ingredients, recipes, equipment and

courses for make-your-own, cruelty-free

and high quality cosmetics, toiletries &

beauty products.

We sell these ingredients in affordable

quantities for small businesses,

complementary therapists, market traders,

home crafters and individuals.

Welcome

To our May 2011 Newsletter!

I start this Newsletter after a difficult

week for us on a personal level at

Aromantic. Many of you may know

that our dear friend and colleague

Louise Hutcheson passed away

suddenly on 29th

March. She is very

special to us and we dearly miss her

smiling face and presence. Our hearts

go out to her family, especially

Jacqui, her big sister and her niece,

Laura, who both work for us also.

Thank you to those of you who have

given us your kind condolences. You

can read our tribute to her on pg 31.

We have 12 new products for you, 8

of them organic or suitable for

inclusion in natural and organic

products. We have 3 new active ingredients, 2 new organic vegetable

oils, 2 new organic starter packs, 2 new essential oils and excitingly a

new more natural well-tested Preservative called Preservative Eco and

a product home testing kit simple enough for anyone to use!

This issue also has some articles, including current topics such as the

Traditional Herbal Medicinal Products Directive, as well as articles

about GLA-rich oils, sensory analysis, Naturals Collaboration, Market

Reports on Vegetable and Essential Oils, and 4 new recipes in our

Recipe Corner. We also have some very Special offers and have added

Bulk Prices for many of our products.

Happy Spring, may all your new ventures flourish!

Kind regards,

Kolbjorn Borseth and the Aromantic Team

New Products 3-14

Special Offers

Challenge test your products

15-16

14

Bulk Prices

Course Update

17

17

Market Update - Vegetable Oils

Market Update - Essential Oils

18-19

19

Naturals Collaboration 20

Flower seed oils rich in GLA

Sensory Analysis

21-22

23

Product Spotlight 24-26

Traditional Herbal Medicinal

Products Directive (THMPD)

27-28

Recipe Corner

Tribute to Louise

29-30

31

CONTENTS

Louise Hutcheson

6 April 1971—29 March 2011

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New Products

NEW ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Hyaluronic Acid Eco (100% Powder)

INCI Name: Sodium Hyaluronate

Ecocert-approved to be used in natural and organic products. A white to off-white,

fine granulated powder. This is the same powder that we use when making our

Hyaluronic Acid Gel by adding water and preservative to a 1:99 ratio (1% Hyaluronic Acid: 99% Water) that

hereafter will be called Hyaluronic Acid Gel. This powder can be used in natural and organic classified cosmetic

products. Hyaluronic Acid has the ability to absorb up to 1000 times its own weight of water, so it’s therefore

the most efficient humectant moisturiser we have so far.

Hyaluronic acid is what gives the skin its volume and fullness. It is one of the chief components of the

extracellular skin matrix and it contributes significantly to cell proliferation. Aging can result in the loss of

hyaluronic acid, which in turn results in skin that has less volume and the formation of wrinkles and folds. Its

hydrating properties result in increased skin smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles. Its rejuvenating

properties result in increased skin smoothness and softness. It also protects the cell structure and defending

against external threats and bacterial infections. It also exhibits viscous flow, elastic and pseudoplastic

properties. This property is unique to HA. So you can see why it is popularly called “The Fountain of Youth” and

it is a common ingredient in skin care products. Hyaluronic Acid can be processed either warm or cold and is

incorporated into the water stage of a cosmetic formulation.

The easiest way to use the Hyaluronic Acid powder is to sprinkle 1 gram of it to 100ml/g of 20-50ºC water/other

liquids such as organic hydrolates, infusions or decoctions. Blend with an electric stick blender until it becomes

like a gel. You now have a 1% solution gel without any preservatives. You then need to use it straight away by

adding it during the water stage or third stage to your creams, lotions or gels. Please note: just to remind you,

when if you make a water-based commercial product like a cream or gel with a shelf life, you will need to add a

preservative to your product. If you need to store the rest or part of this gel you need to add the appropriate

preservative to it immediately, e.g. 1% Preservative Eco.

Dosage recommended for the powder:

Add 0.1 to 1% to product (creams, gels), which equals 0.1 gram to 1 gram of powder per 100ml/g of products

such as creams and gels (equivalent to 10g of Aromantic’s Hyaluronic Acid Gel to 100ml/g product)

0.05%= 0.05 gram of Powder per 100ml/g of products such as creams, gels, etc (equivalent to 5g of Aromantic’s

Hyaluronic Acid Gel that we already sell)

Tip: 1%= 1 gram of powder per 100ml/g of products such as creams and gels (The same concentration that we

use to make Aromantic’s Hyaluronic Acid Gel that we already sell.)

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You cannot add the powder or gel to an oil serum but you can add the powder directly in the water stage to a

cream or lotion and heat it up while whisking until the water stage ingredients have been raised to a

temperature over 75°C and the powder has been thickened. Beware that if you use more than 0.5% (0.5g per

100ml/g) of the powder with this method then the water stage can become too thick to work with. It is approx.

20% cheaper for you to make up the powder into a gel solution than buying the Hyaluronic Acid Gel from us.

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-hyaluronic-acid-eco-uk.htm

Skinbright Active

INCI: Crambe Abyssinica (98%), Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate (2%).

Skin brightening mix that we’ve blended at Aromantic with our organic crambe seed oil,

which helps to give it an extra natural silicon feeling. Shelf life: 2-3 years. This is a new,

very good and safe skin brightener/lightener, which is newly patented and shows no

cytotoxic effects, nor any irritation or sensitisation reaction.

Benefits of Skinbright Active

• Induces a significant lightening effect on the skin, at the same time that fights

against photoaging.

• Acts by inhibiting tyrosinase activity.

• Exhibits a considerable lightening in-vivo effect on the skin

• Has a completely safe profile

• Shows good stability in formulations

• Possesses a photoprotective effect on the human epidermal keratinocytes, helping to prevent skin

damage caused by UV radiation

• Unlike other skin brighteners/lighteners that cause irritation and sensitivity due to the sun, Skinbright

Active actually helps to prevent skin damage caused by UV radiation – 190% increase in cell viability

• Exhibits a better dipigmenting effect than Kojic Acid and Arbutin, and similar to Hydroquinone

• Does not affect melanocyte growth, while Hydroquinone cytotoxicity was clearly observed

• A cream containing 5% Skinbright Active induces a significant brightening effect after 30 and 60 days

• Skinbright active reduced the appearance of melasma (dark skin discolourations that appears on sun-

exposed areas of the face) by 72% and lentigines (sun spots, age spots or liver spots) by 67% after 60 days

of treatment

• It is blended with Crambe Seed Oil, which gives the product a smooth, silky, silicon feeling and enhances it

as the oil works as a skin feel-modifier (Please see more information about Crambe Seed Oil in this

Newsletter)

Kojic Acid was very efficient but was found that it could cause skin damage so was recently banned in many

countries. Skinbright Active has shown better efficiency than Kojic Acid and is very safe to use.

5g £48 Ref: 88001 10g £79 Ref: 88002 30g £158 Ref: 88003

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Usage of Skinbright Active

Add a minimum of 5% and a maximum of 25% into creams, lotions and, as the product is oil-soluble, to face oils,

oil blends and oil serums. Personally I believe it works best in gels.

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-skybright-active-uk.htm

Papaya Glycerine Extract N

INCI: Glycerine, Calica papaya

Organic glycerine extract made in UK from non-organic papaya flesh. The

product is made in the UK for Aromantic without adding any preservatives. If

it’s possible to get a steady supply of organic papaya in the future we will use

that.

Papaya flesh contains the papain, which is a protein-dissolving enzyme ex-

tracted from the milky white latex found in the biggest quantity in unripe pa-

paya fruit. Because of this quality, papaya is used as a meat tenderiser.

Benefits

• When used on our skin, it is excellent as an enzyme peeling product, it

literally helps to peel away dead skin cells

• Good also for bruises, sprains and sore muscles (combine with Arnica

and Comfrey raw materials)

• Gently removes skin cells from the surface - has a light cosmetic effect and does not give cell stimulation

of regenerative abilities of skin that deep skin peeling treatments do

• Unblocks pores

• Makes skin smoother, brighter and softer

• Assists the renewal of skin on its top layer

• Reduces visibility of skin discolouration and sun spots

• Fights deep wrinkles

• Retextures dry, flaky skin

Usage and dosages

• Use 3-6% as a replacement for moisturisers that you’d normally use e.g. glycerine or sorbitol in:

• Peeling products such as Peeling Creams, Lotions and Gels

• Exfoliating Products such as Exfoliating Creams, Lotions and Gels

• Scrubs for body, hand and feet

• Hand and Foot Creams to soften the skin together with Carbamide Crystals

30ml £9.90 Ref: 8593 100ml £27.90 Ref: 8594 500ml £129 Ref: 8595

1L £209.90 Ref: 8596

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Related Products

For peeling purposes

Combine with AHA Natural Fruit Acids (which includes Glycolic Acid) And Aloe Vera, which both contain fruit

enzymes that both heal, soften and peel, but also counteract the harsh effects of even the mildest of all peelers.

Cautions

• Pregnant women and people taking blood thinning medication should avoid it.

• Do not add plain glycerine to your recipe when adding this product to your recipe

• This product can also replace Sorbitol that I recommend using in exfoliating and Peeling products.

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-papaya-glycerine-extract-uk.htm

NEW PRESERVATIVE

Preservative Eco

INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid.

We are delighted to introduce a new broad spectrum preservation system based on a

combination of ingredients that is both ECOCERT and COSMOS approved. (Cosmos is a

European organic standard has been created by an alliance of 5 of Europe's leading

organic certifiers: The Soil Association – UK; BDIH – Germany; Cosmebio – France;

Ecocert – France; ICEA. Preservative Eco meets ECOCERT standards for use in natural

and organic skin and hair care products. Its four components, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic

Acid, are all well accepted in a wide range of personal care products. This novel composition of this

antimicrobial blend offers broad spectrum protection in a diverse range of products, against gram-positive and

gram-negative bacteria, yeast and moulds. It is clear liquid with a mild smell.

Advantages to using Preservative Eco are:

• Meets ECOCERT’S and COSMOS standards

• Non-paraben, non-formaldehyde, non-isothiazolone based preservative system

• Has wide global regulatory acceptance.

• Low odour profile; ideal for fragrance-free and fragrance-sensitive formulations.

• Compatible with a wide range range of skin, hair and sun care formulations.

• Safe to use in products with a wide range of pH values (3-8).

• Excellent safety profile.

• Can be used in products with detergents, unlike Preservative 12

100ml £4.90 Ref: 8840 500ml £17.40 Ref: 8841 1L £31.35 Ref: 8842

5L £115.45 Ref: 8843 (Only £23.09 a litre)

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Recommended dosage for Preservative Eco:

The recommended use level is 1% and for products containing herbal infusions or decoctions, it is 1-1.15%.

Because of the high quantity of Benzyl Alcohol in Preservative Eco and to meet the European Cosmetic Directive

standards, the maximum amount use in products should be 1.15%. Note: To be on the safe side, I would then

recommend that you use 1.1% of Preservative Eco in products containing herbal infusions or decoctions.

Usage:

It is very important that Preservative Eco is added to your recipes for which heating is necessary when the

temperature is below 45˚C. So the best is to add the preservative in the third stage of making creams and

lotions. However, every personal care formulation requires special attention. It is always important to ensure

that every newly developed or altered formulation be challenge-tested to guarantee proper preservation.

Caution:

Due to the Salicylic Acid component in Preservative Eco, do not use it in products for children under 3 years of

age, except in rinse-off products such as shampoos, shower gels, etc.

Further information about using Preservative Eco

Aromantic has just challenge-tested 2 creams made using 1% Preservative Eco at Microbiological Consultancy

Services and we now have the results back from their lab. The creams we tested are: Aromantic’s Mature Skin

Cream; and Aromantic’s Active Cream 1 (which contains herbal infusions) and both passed the challenge test to

comply with the criteria of the European Pharmacopeia for topical products.

Our tests were successful and Preservative Eco also comes from a reputable company that produces other

ECOCERT-approved raw materials but as I’ve said in my Preservatives article, the final responsibility for the end

result of your products lies with you as we are not with you when you make your products.

If you are happy with the preservative you are using I see no reason to change preservatives. But if you want to

use an ECOCERT and COSMOS approved preservative or you want a natural preservative to use in products

containing detergents (shampoos, foam baths, shower gels, etc) then this may be the preservative for you.

Some common sense or safety rules when changing to other preservatives:

• Change 1-2 products first, not all the products in your range.

• Do your own stability test, Newsletter 32. If still uncertain, get our Micrcount® Combi test kit.

• If still not convinced, get your product challenge-tested. For more information see pg 14.

• Ideally, don’t start selling your ‘test’ products containing your new preservative until 6 months have

passed from production date.

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-preservative-eco-uk.htm

Click links for our challenge test results, which can be found in our Natural Skin Care Library on our website:

Active Cream 1: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/pdf/Challenge_Test_Active_Cream_1_Preservative_Eco.pdf

Mature Cream: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/pdfChallenge_Test_Mature_Skin_Cream_Preservative_Eco.pdf

30ml £3.95 Ref: 7616 100ml £7.90 Ref: 7617 500ml £19.90 Ref: 7618

1L £37.90 Ref: 7619 5L £149.60 Ref: 7620 (only £29.90/L)

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NEW ORGANIC VEGETABLE OILS

Crambe Seed Oil, Cold pressed (Organic) ORG N

INCI: Crambe Abyssinica

There is VAT on this oil as it is not classified as food

and should not be eaten.

Organic, cold pressed from seeds. Origin: England.

Colour: ranging from light to golden yellow, with a feint

neutral odour. Shelf life: 4-5 years (4 times more stable

than Sweet Almond Oil. It is not derived from GM crops.

We are happy to introduce an oil that maybe only a few

of you have heard about, Crambe Seed Oil. With regard

to food miles, it is organically grown in England just 7 miles from the extraction plant. Of course where you live

will affect the final food miles for the product. Crambe Abyssinica has been grown in the UK for many years. The

seed is rich in an oil that is highly valued due to the unique characteristics which enable it to be used in a wide

range of applications.

Skin Care

It has unique qualities for skin care. Crambe Seed Oil is an excellent natural lubricant and emollient. It has a

unique skin-feel, combining a light texture with enhanced slip properties, without feeling too greasy; this is

attributed to its special lipid profile. Crambe Seed Oil has superior stability compared to other oils and this

combined with its enhanced slip properties make it an ideal natural alternative to mineral oils and silicones. Just

1000kg has been produced organically and the product and its low profile is a bit of a trade secret.

It is a long and soft oil perfect for long strokes in massage. Compared to Jojoba Oil, Crambe Seed Oil has much

larger quantities of Erucic Acid. Crambe Seed Oil is similar to Broccoli Seed Oil with both around 50% Erucic Acid

(C22:1), an Omega-9 fatty acid that helps to give a glossy shine to hair just like silicone would. It also gives shine

and gloss to dull and lifeless skin. The oil is now becoming increasingly popular as a natural option to silicone in

hair and styling products where shine and lustre is needed. Crambe, however, is much cheaper and is oilier.

Efficacy data

Trials carried out by UK formulation experts have identified that Crambe oil has a unique skin-feel and lubricity.

It helps protect the skin surface from drying whilst improving barrier function. Application of the oil directly to

the skin leaves it feeling softer and smoother whilst not drying out as quickly as some other oils.

Applications and dosages

We recommend Crambe Seed Oil for use in products which are designed to give enhanced slip/lubricity and

protection. Due to its high stability and skin-feel, Crambe Seed Oil may be suitable as a natural replacement for

synthetic oils such as mineral oils and silicones.

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Application of Crambe Seed Oil include:

• Creams for lustre and shine – use 5-8%

• Massage Oils for whole body massage – use 10-40%

• Massage Creams and Lotions – use 10-30%

• Lotions – use 2-5%

• Balms (Ointments) – use 5-30%

• Lip Care – 10-20%

• Hair Treatment Oils – use 5-25%

• Hair Packs – use 5-25%

• Hair Conditioners - use 2-6%

Please see pages 25-27 for more information, for recipes see pg 30. For website description or to order, click:

http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-crambe-seed-oil-organic-uk.htm

100ml £4.50 Ref: 87006 500ml £17.90 Ref: 87007

1L £29.90 Ref: 87008 5L £119.60 Ref: 87009

NEW ORGANIC MACERATED VEGETABLE OIL

Mullein Flower Oil (Organic) ORG N

INCI: Helianthus annuus, Verbascum densiflorum

Organic dried flowers cold macerated in organic high oleic content sun-

flower oil. Origin: Wales and Holland. Shelf life is 1.5-2 years. Our Organic

Mullein Flower Oil is one of a range of macerated oils especially produced

for us by a grower in the Welsh Borders, where he has been growing herbs

organically for 25 years. We are very happy with the good quality. After I

(Kolbjorn) visited their farm personally, I came away very impressed with

what they do.

The difference between this organic macerated mullein oil and our non-

organic macerated mullein oil is that in this organic oil, our grower and sup-

plier used only flowers, whereas in the non-organic oil mainly leaves are

used.

Skin Care

Leaves are anodyne (pain-killing), antibacterial, astringent, demulcent, mucilaginous and vulnerary, the flowers

are demulcent (forms a soothing film on the skin), emollient and mucilaginous (which means that is softens and

soothes and reduces irritation), moist and sticky. Mullein contains natural tannins, which are wrinkle-fighters

and so it’s an excellent choice for skin-lifting products, especially when use din combination with pumpkin seed

oil. Mullein Flower Macerated Oil has the added benefits of being especially good for easing frostbite, haemor-

rhoids (combine with Horse Chestnut Oil) and to soothe and heal bruises (combine with Arnica Oil).

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30ml £5.30 Ref: 87001 100ml £12.90 Ref: 87002 500ml £48.90 Ref: 87003

1L £91.90 Ref: 87004

Mullein Oil for Hair Care

Add mullein oil to scalp oils in combination with olive oil.

Mullein Oil for Ear Care

The oil is a traditional remedy still used today to treat earaches. Caution: don’t use if the eardrum is perforated.

Related products

For more information about Mullein Oil

The Aromantic Guide to the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.

In protective barrier products such as Creams

Blend mullein oil with jojoba oil.

In products for oily/combination skin

Blend mullein oil with jojoba oil and oils high in omega 3, such as kiwi seed, chia seed and camelina.

In Hair Packs

Blend mullein oil with jojoba and/or crambe seed oil.

In Scalp Treatment Oils

Blend mullein oil with olive oil.

Face-Lifting products

Blend mullein oil with pumpkin seed oil, remodelling intense and hyaluronic acid.

For specific fatty acid content, see our free Newsletter no 24. Click http://www.aromantic.co.uk/newsletter.htm

to access Newsletter archives (you may need to sign up if you haven’t already done so).

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-mullein-flower-oil-organic-uk.htm

Dear Mr Kolbjørn Borseth, Having purchased all your publications and reading the Aromantic Guides,

I/we are writing to inform you that we are very pleased with your publications.

We find your recipes and uses for skin ailments etc., excellent.

I/we know that it is presented easy-to-understand and without your books of

instructions we would not be able to fulfil our ambition.

Your books will always be our inspiration. With thanks.

Yours sincerely, David & Bridget Jupp

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NEW BOTANICAL CO2 EXTRACT

Rice Bran Oil CO2 Extract (Organic) ORG N

INCI: Oryza sativa germ oil.

Organic Rice Bran harvested in Italy and taken to Germany for supercritical CO2

extraction under organic conditions, making a very concentrated product of which you only need to use 1-2% .

Colour: Light yellow. A liquid consistency is reached at +34ºC, therefore heat it if solid in hot water. Method:

pour boiling water into a bowl and let stand for half a minute or so, then place bottle in bowl, standing up with

lid on for a minute or so. Pour immediately. Repeat if necessary. Shelf life: 1.5-2 years. When our supplier tried

to cold press rice bran they couldn’t get enough yield, so the only way to produce organic rice bran oil for the

time being is by CO2 extraction. Aromantic buys this Rice Bran Oil CO2 Extract from its only producer in the

world. As a sign of its quality, it is used in Udo’s Choice, a very high quality product designed and manufactured

by Udo Erasmus, a world expert in fatty acids. It’s an excellent choice if you want to use Rice Bran but prefer to

use organic. For specific fatty acid content, see page 28. Click http://www.aromantic.co.uk/newsletter.htm to

access Newsletter archives (you may need to sign up if you haven’t already done so).

Skin Care

It’s superb for dry, sensitive and/or tired-looking skin. It makes skin soft and is a good humectant to add to hand

creams. It helps with skin irritations and itchiness (combine with comfrey and chickweed products).

Dosage:

Use 1-2% in Creams, Lotions, Ointments, Oil Serums, Face Oils, Body Oils and other Vegetable Oil Blends.

Related Products

For more information about Rice Bran Oil

The Aromantic Guide to the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.

In Massage Oils for sensitive/tired-looking skin

Blend rice bran oil with jojoba, chickweed, marshmallow, apricot kernel, rosehip and coconut oils.

In Hand Creams

Combine rice bran oil with olive, crambe seed and jojoba oils for skin protection and softness.

In Body Oils

Blend rice bran oil with apricot kernel, peach kernel and rosehip oils; and chamomile products.

In Itchy Skin Treatment Products

Blend rice bran with chickweed, comfrey or marshmallow macerated oils and products; & chamomile products.

To view online or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-rice-bran-oil-co2-extract-organic-uk.htm

30ml £4.50 Ref: 5532 100ml £11.90 Ref: 5533

500ml £47.90 Ref: 5534 1L £89.90 Ref: 5535

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1x £3.95 Ref: 9383 5x £14.90 Ref: 9384 (only £2.98 each)

NEW EQUIPMENT

Mikrocount® Combi

A simple test tube to challenge test your product like cream, lotion, gel,

shampoos, etc for bacterial, yeast and mould growth. The testing can be done

by people without microbiological training and special laboratory testing is

not necessary. NB There is no legal requirement to challenge test your

cosmetic products, but you may want to prove your own preservative scheme

is working or simply raise the standards of your production methods. If you want a more comprehensive

challenge test for your products, then contact Microbiological Consultant Services. See page 14.

Every Mickocount Combi sent out will be accompanied by a colour brochure with full instructions and colour

illustrations to help you determine the total bacterial, yeast and fungi counts. The brochure is in English, Polish,

Dutch, German, French and Spanish. Please see page our website for more information. Be aware that the

Mikrocount® Combi tube comes to us with a maximum shelf life of 6-7 months. The expiration date is marked

on the tube. The tubes should be stored unopened at room temperature (about + 20 °C) and protected from

draught and light. The slides must not be allowed to freeze.

Product benefits

• Easy to use - without any preparation time, the slide can be used to test surfaces, semi-solid materials

and liquids.

• Quick and convenient - always handy and reliable to use – even at last minute.

• No special laboratory equipment is necessary.

• Economical - the previous time-consuming laboratory work for preparing nutrient media, producing

dilution series and counting colonies is eliminated.

• In addition, the considerable costs of external laboratory are saved.

• Accurate and reliable - the strict standards to which mikrocount® combi is produced guarantee a product

of consistent excellent quality.

• Detection of bacteria and moulds - with mikrocount® combi, bacteria, yeasts and moulds can be

separately detected with a single dip-slide.

• Simple to use - sampling and evaluation can be carried out even by personnel who have no training in

microbiology.

• Safe - incubated samples are evaluated in sealed tubes which risks of contamination are avoided.

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-mikrocount-combi-uk.htm

Note: In stock end of May - supplier is awaiting a new batch with a longer shelf life.

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NEW ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS

Melissa (Organic) ORG 1

INCI name: Melissa officinalis

Origin: Bulgaria.

Organic leaves fairly traded directly from a small project in Bulgaria.

Many commercial Melissa oils are in fact blends of citronella and

lemongrass. It takes 3 tonnes of herb material to make a half kilo of this true Melissa oil hence the price. Good

for fighting cold sores so useful to add to lip glosses or lip roll-ons. The heat needed to make a beeswax lip balm

may reduce the effect of this oil.

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-melissa-organic-essential-oil-uk.htm

NEW NON-ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS

Mandarin, Red

INCI: Citrus reticulata

Peel from Argentina/Italy. An excellent choice in pregnancy to help

combat stretch marks especially when combined with shea butter or

shea butter oil. Helps to clear oily and congested skin. For hair care try

combining with other citrus oils for a St. Clements shampoo or body

wash. Can also use in baby shampoos but best to use Beta Detergent in

the shampoo. This essential oil is in short supply due to the harvest

restrictions in both Italy and Brazil.

For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-mandarin-red-essential-oil-uk.htm

To go to our Essential Oils listings, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-aromatherapy-essential-oils-uk.htm

10ml £3.30 Ref: 12001 30ml £6.60 Ref: 12006 100ml £13.20 Ref: 12007

500ml £45.00 Ref: 12004 1L £85.00 Ref: 12009

2ml £12.40 Ref: 1660 5ml £24.80 Ref: 1659

10ml £45.90 Ref: 1661 30ml £119.30 Ref: 1440

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NEW ORGANIC STARTER PACKS

Starter Pack No 24 Massage Bars (Organic)

Makes up to 45 massage bars, with full instructions and recipes. Contains:

975g of Organic Cocoa Butter and Organic Shea Butter (deodorised and

filtered). Makes 1kg of Organic Massage Bars (approx. 45 small bars).

Special introductory price for each Starter Pack:

To view online or to order, click:

http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-starter-pack-24-massage-bars-organic-uk.htm

Starter Pack No 25 Lip Balms (Organic)

Make up to 60x 4.5ml Organic Lip Balms with this Starter Pack. Contains full instructions

and recipes, as well as: 84g Beeswax (in 3x28g bags); 60g Organic Cocoa Butter (in 3x20g

bags); 150ml Organic Sweet Almond Oil (3x50ml bottles); 10ml Organic Lemon Essential

Oil; 10ml Organic Lime Essential Oil; 20 (enough for 1x batch) 4.5ml Lip Balm Cylinders

with Lids.

Note: Only 20 lip balm cylinder containers are included in the pack. Please see the Containers category on

our website to order more Lip Balm Cylinders - 4.5ml (9127) or our 15ml Clear Glass Jars (9032).

Special introductory price for each Starter Pack:

To view online or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-starter-pack-25-lip-balms-organic-uk.htm

1x £29.90 Ref: 9624

1x £29.90 Ref: 9625

Challenge Test your products I have negotiated with Angus Malcolm at Microbiological Consultancy Services to give Aromantic customers a

special price if you choose to make a preservative efficacy test. Compared to other companies on the market,

they offer very good value for money. I’d like to emphasise that challenge-testing your products is not a legal

requirement within European legislation but something to do for quality control and your own peace of mind.

The service they offer is called a Preservative Efficacy Test (the same as challenge test really) and the cost to

Aromantic customers for each product is £110+VAT. The standard cost for non-Aromantic customers is

£130+VAT for each product. When requesting 10 or more tests at one time, the cost to Aromantic customers for

each product will be £99+VAT.

Their website is http://www.mcs.uk.net and you simply fill in a form with no recipe details

revealed and then send your products along to them. The challenge/efficacy test takes one

month to complete. Please contact Microbiological Consultancy Services directly.

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SAVE

10%

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa Butter (non-Organic) has 10% discount and we

sell it now in quantities up to 25kg with a price down

to only £9.55/kg!

Mango Butter

We’ve also reduced the prices for Mango Butter.

Beeswax, Yellow (Organic)

500g WAS £18.15

NOW £15.90

1kg WAS £32.55

NOW £25.90

5kg WAS £116.65

NOW £85.00

(Costs only £17/kg!)

New quantity of 10kg is now being sold for only

£15.99/kg

Swedish Beeswax

All quantities have been

reduced in price by 10%

Special Offers

FATS AND WAXES In connection with price reductions, we have also added prices

for 5kg on all of them and 10kg and up to 25kg for some of them.

That makes buying in bulk always cheaper and easier for you.

Shea Butter

Both Shea Butter, Deodorised and Filtered (Organic)

and Shea Butter, Filtered (Organic) now have the

same prices and new quantities as we have secured

both types at the same prices:

500g WAS £13.70

NOW £9.40

1kg WAS £23.90

NOW £14.90

5kg WAS £69.30

NOW £59.60

(Costs only £11.92/kg!)

The new quantities of Shea Butter, Deodorised and

Filtered (Organic) and Shea Butter, Deodorised

(Organic):

10kg £109 Cost per kg only £10.90/kg!

25kg £229 Cost per kg only £9.16/kg!

To order fats and waxes online, click:

http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-natural-organic-

vegetable-fats-waxes-skin-care-cosmetics-uk.htm

Save: £2.25!

Save: £6.65!

Save: £31.65!

Save: £4.30!

Save: £9.00!

Save: £9.70!

Some fats and waxes are half

their original price & many are now

available in bigger quantities!

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SAVE

25%

Glycerine Soap Bases

Non-Organic Glycerine Soap Base

Blend (SLS-free)

5kg WAS £33.30

NOW £30.50

11.5kg WAS £72.50

NOW £64.90

(Each kilo costs only £5.64/kg)

23kg WAS £129.40

NOW £119.80

(Each kilo costs only £5.20!)

The Organic Glycerine Soap

Base

Special Offers

Save: £2.80!

Save: £7.60!

Save: £9.60!

REDUCED

BY 12-15%

To order Soap Bases online, click:

http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-glycerine-soap-making-supplies-

moulds-uk.htm

Other reduced prices

• Hyaluronic Acid Gel

• Glycerine (non-Organic)

• Propylene Glycol

SAVE

15% • D-Panthenol

SAVE

10% • Cetyl alcohol

Prices down!

Beta

Detergent

Larger quantities

reduced

Pearlescent

Colours

Quantities of 10g,

50g and 250g

Emulsifiers

25kg just £15.50

PER ONE KG

or all of these see our website for updated prices. http://www.aromantic.co.uk

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Essential Oils

We have tried to keep bulk prices on organic essential oils, but due to the

volatile market it’s always possible to keep prices for long. Therefore please

call us if you want bigger quantities than we have up on our website.

Macerated Vegetable Oils

We have also added bulk prices on all the Macerated Vegetable Oils (up to 5

litres).

Tinctures We now sell in 500ml quantity so you can stock up.

Emulsifiers

We now sell most of our Emulsifiers up to 25kg so if you buy 25kg of Emulsifier you pay just £15.50/kg instead

of £26.90/kg if you buy 1kg.

Colours

Both Normal Pigments and Pearlescent Colours – we’ve started selling these up to 1kg and then also at gener-

ally lower prices.

For all of these see our website for updated prices. http://www.aromantic.co.uk

Bulk Prices

Our courses in both Forres and London are filling up very fast but we

still have some spaces in Forres for May 19-28.

It looks as though most of our courses in London this June/July will

be fully booked and we foresee waiting lists.

At the time of writing this, we already have 20 students for both Ad-

vanced Hair Care Products, Anti-Wrinkle Products and Men’s Groom-

ing products and the limit is 25. Our Coloured Make-up Day 1 (Beginners) on Friday 24th June is already fully

booked. Due to popular customer demand (translation: begging and pleading!) we have set up a new Coloured

Make-up Day 1 on the Thursday 23rd June at the same venue in London. We may be able to provide and extra

Make-up Day 2 but for Day 3 we have no suitable venue. There is a 20-student limit per day for Make-up

Courses.

So book in time to avoid disappointment! To view or book Aromantic courses, click here:

http://www.aromantic.co.uk/courses-making-natural-skin-care-cosmetic-products-uk.htm

Course Updates

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The price increases of vegetable oils last year were mainly caused by the shortage of

oil seeds to process, as well as the increasing activities of finance investors on the

raw materials market. The prices in the last six months, especially, have gone up very

much.

The overriding explanation for the continued price drive over recent months is the

increasing interest of the part institutional investors outside of the typical

commodities market. These are fund buyers (pension and hedge funds) who identify soft commodities as a

new ‘playing field’. As of recently, they invest a lot of money into bets of raw materials and products out of the

food sector.

A further price driver is the demand from the biodiesel and co-generation industry: with Brent crude oil hitting

temporary record levels, vegetable oils are back on the agenda. We should expect that prices will rule firm

from some considerable time to come.

Some specific market updates

Evening Primrose Oil

China is currently the biggest producer of evening primrose seed with a worldwide market share of

approximately 85-90%. We estimate the global demand for evening primrose of 2.500-3000mt, whereas the

growing demand in Asia is difficult to calculate.

As predicted, the planting of evening primrose seeds decreased. There are several reasons for this. Over the

last two years excess production volumes and stocks had been reduced, that means the market prices for

evening primrose was getting noticeably unattractive for farmers. Other seeds like corn are getting more

attractive due to the high premiums guaranteed by the government.

This autumn the harvest volumes will no longer be sufficient because of decreased planting. We expect 30-

40% less harvest volumes compared to normal years without excess plantings. Furthermore, we await

activities of speculators and seed traders. Prices for evening primrose oil are expected to increase, when

stocks from current crop will further decline. The next harvest is scheduled for autumn 2011.

Almond Oil

Cold and wet weather in California gives concern for the big harvest of almonds there and also less activity

(colony collapse disorder) by the bees will lead to insufficient pollination.

Palm Oil

Palm Oil prices have reached a 3-year high. Because of flooding in Malaysia, a substantial production decline is

expected. The reports have come down by approximately 4-5% in December and January, which against rising

demand cause firm prices.

Market Report on Vegetable Oils

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Market Report on Essential Oils

Generally the organic essential oil market is very hard to predict but prices are increas-

ing. As the big cosmetic companies still buy up larger stock than smaller companies and

whole crops sometimes, they have the buying power and we, smaller suppliers are left

to fight for the last few bits and pieces. As a better guarantee against this, we can get

stock from the smaller community projects that operate on fair trade principles, which

is where most of our organic essential oils come from anyway. But projects can see

what is happening on the global market & will accept only premium prices for their oils.

Mandarin, Red (both organic and non-organic) Still in short supply due to harvest problems in Italy and Brazil. The available stock is more expensive is usual.

Orange

The availability of Orange Oil appears insufficient to meet demand. A dismal crop in Brazil combined with a

diminishing crop in Florida due to cold weather has brought prices to historic highs. As an example, non-

organic Orange Essential Oil has in just a few weeks, increased by 6 times.

Lemon Dry weather has contributed to significantly lower volumes of lemon oil from Argentina. At present we esti-

mate that the reduction in oil will be greater than 30%. Production in Spain will be down by 50%. We get our

Lemon Oil from Central America, but due to the reduced production worldwide, the price will surely increase.

Lavender

For the third year in a row, the crop is very poor. This, combined with no carryover oil, makes for limited sup-

ply & high prices. It’s also reported that the flowers’ oil content is 60% lower than previous years & that this

year farm/distillation costs are at last year’s selling prices which has put added pressure on prices and

availability.

Sunflower Oil

Smaller harvest volumes and unusually low stocks are the basic reason for a remarkably lower production of

sunflower oil. This means that the supply for nearby positions is limited and that higher premiums have to be

paid in comparison to other vegetable oils. As sunflower remains the most important cooking oil in Russia and

the Ukraine, there is already a trend to reduce the export volumes to secure local demand at reasonable

prices. Because of this in October 2010 alone the global market price increased by 15%.

Jojoba Oil

Due to poor harvests in Argentina, the prices have rocketed up for Jojoba and more than doubled in just a few

weeks. Aromantic have secured 150 litres at a reasonable price. I already warned about price increases in my

last newsletter and due to that most of the large stock I had secured then has been bought up. Just to remind

you that Jojoba Oil can keep for up to 5 years.

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Good News

Quoting from Personal care Magazine www.personalcare magazine.com

Naturals Collaboration

The Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) and The International Natural

and Organic Cosmetic Association (NATRUE), have signed a

Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to help raise awareness of

the importance of naturally sourced cosmetics products and the

ethical trade in natural ingredients derived from biodiversity.

This collaboration will enhance the work of UEBT and NATRUE

towards responsible supply chain management, transparency to

consumers, and advancing international targets to halt biodiversity

loss set by the United Nations Convention on Biological Diversity.

With consumer demand for natural and organic cosmetics ever growing, companies are increasingly looking to

use ingredients from natural resources. “If done in an ethical and sustainable way, sourcing from nature can

really add value to biodiversity at a local level and help motivate its protection,” said executive director of UEBT,

Rik Kutsch Lojenga.

“UEBT stands for sourcing with respect',” said Julie Tyrell, director general of NATRUE. “Its members commit to

sourcing natural ingredients in a way that conserves biodiversity and respects traditional knowledge while

sharing benefits with those who harvest the ingredients and make them available.

These are values close to the heart of the natural and organic cosmetics sector. The more our sector grows, the

more important this becomes. It is a great chance to promote biodiversity and we decided to work together to

make it happen.”

The MOU between UEBT and NATRUE, both created in 2007, will allow the two organisations to

further collaborate, share insights and explore common opportunities and challenges. The membership base of

the organisations is complementary, with NATRUE’s strong roots in Europe and increasingly the US, and UEBT’s

strength in Latin America and Africa.

Useful links:

http://www.natrue.org

http://www.ethicalbiotrade.org

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Flower Seed Oils naturally rich in GLA

Skin under pressure

Our skin is our largest organ and our shield to the environment. It

regulates our body temperatre and fluid balance. The skin also

protects us from pathogens, UV radiation, and mechanical, physical

and chemical insults.

Our way of life stresses the skin barrier each day. Sunbathing, cold

wind, washing, bathing, chemicals in cosmetics and perfumes, as

well as urban pollution are constantly challenging the protective function of the skin.

This protection, called “skin barrier function,” is due to the outer part of the skin, the stratum corneum. Layers

of horny cells (corneocytes) are the “bricks” of a tight wall which protects the whole outer part of our body. In

between these bricks is the “mortar,” which keeps the protective layer together. It consists of ceramides (40%),

cholesterol (25%), and free fatty acids (25%). These essential free fatty acids, specifically gamma linolenic acid

(GLA), are important for the skin barrier function.

Gamma linolenic acid (GLA) deficiency can result in

• dry, chappy, or rough skin due to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

• irritations, infections and inflammation due to a higher permeability of the skin barrier

• higher susceptibility to external stressors (allergens)

Refilling the “mortar” with lipids and gamma linolenic acid is a good way to strengthen the protective function

of the skin and to avoid skin barrier degradation.

GLA helps to protect the skin

Scientific publications have shown that plant seed oils rich in GLA can normalize excessive water loss through

the skin (TEWL).1,2

This results in a moisturizing effect. Improvements of skin elasticity and firmness of the skin

have been shown with evening primrose oil by oral supplementation.2 The smoothness of the skin can be

significantly improved with GLA-rich oils by either topical1 or oral

2 application.

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Overall a younger and smoother appearance of the skin can be achieved by supplying gamma linolenic acid

(GLA) from flower seed oils.

Examples of Vegetable Oils rich in GLA

• Borage (16-24%)

• Evening Primrose (8-12%)

• Hemp Seed (2- 3%)

Proven Benefits of GLA-rich oils Application

Reducing TEWL Topical1, oral

2,3

Moisturising effect Topical1, oral

2

Smoothness Topical1, oral

2

Skin firmness Oral2,3

Fatigue resistance Oral2,3

Reduced itching Oral2,3

Scientific References 1: Nissen, H.P., H. Biltz, and R. Muggli, Borage oil.

Cosmetics & Toiletries, 1995. 110(10): p. 71-73, 76.

2: M uggli, R., Systemic evening primrose oil improves the

biophysical skin parameters of healthy

adults. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005.

27(4): p. 243-249.

3: Brosche, T. and D. Platt, Effect of borage oil

consumption on fatty acid metabolism, transepidermal

water loss and skin parameters in elderly people.

Archives of Gerontology and Geriatrics,

2000. 30(2): p. 139-150.

4: H enz, B.M., et al., Double-blind, multicentre analysis

of the efficacy of borage oil in patients with atopic

eczema. British Journal of Dermatology, 1999. 140(4): p.

685-688.

Article source: One of our main suppliers

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Sensory Analysis – powerful tool in formulating

unique cosmetic textures Why use Sensory Analysis at all? Aren’t machines sophisticated

enough to measure all the characteristics of a formulation or

product that we could ever want or need?

The answer is no, because of course you are dealing with human feelings, and

sometimes you cannot predict how a product is going to feel, smell, etc until it is

tested on a human panel. The science of Sensory Analysis is not new and has been

used in the food industry for many years to determine how a foodstuff is perceived

by the consumer in terms of the five senses:

Appearance - what does the product look like, colour, shape etc.

Smell - does it smell appealing or are there any strange odours

Touch - how does it feel in hands and in the mouth

Taste - can different flavours be detected and what are they

Sound - what sound does it make in the mouth and is this good/bad

The use of Sensory Analysis as a tool in cosmetics is much more recent and was first

introduced by L’oreal and Dior in France in the 1980s. The idea soon spread and by the end of

the 1990s many cosmetic manufacturers were using this tool as part of the formulation

process.

Measurement of Characteristics Any aspect of a particular formulation can be measured. It is normally done by producing reference samples at the two

extremes of the characteristic being measured. For example to measure viscosity you would have a very thick cream as

the high reference ranked at 10, and a very thin cream ranked 1. Any cream can then be ranked 1 to 10.

Examples of some

characteristics • Viscosity

• Gloss

• Matt/Shininess

• Creaminess

• Spreadability = long/short

• Melting Sensation

• Greasiness (very, very dry

to very, very fatty)

• Soft feel

• Absorption time

• Residual Film

• Tackiness/Stickiness

• Oily finish

• Smoothness

Sensory analysis example: Anti-Aging Light Lotion for women

aged 30-45 years old with combination/oily skin

Brief

(qualities you want for

the product you are

making)

Sensory Characteristic

to be measured

Ideal score to

be achieved

1 = low,

10 = high

Light skin feel Spreadability 7-8

Perception of mildness Softness 8

No greasy feel Greasiness 2-3

Light film on skin Film Residue 5

Matte finish on skin Shininess after application 1

Sensory Analysis

A scientific discipline used to

measure, analyse and interpret

the characteristics of a product

as they are perceived by the

5 senses

Please note: we don’t offer this professional scientific service analysing each of our products or vegetable oils - it is for

your information only. However, many of the characteristics and properties of vegetable oils are discussed & described in

my book, The Aromantic Guide to Unlocking the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.

http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-unlocking-the-powerful-health-rejuvenation-benefits-of-vegetable-oils-the-aromantic-

guide-to-uk.htm

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CRAMBE SEED OIL (ORGANIC) Crambe oil is an inedible seed oil, extracted from the seeds of the

Crambe abyssinica, a multibranched annual plant part of the mustard family

that is native to the Mediterranean. It’s also good that it can grow on

marginal land that is not suitable for normal crops.

Crambe seed has 28 to 30 percent protein. The primary products from crambe seed include oil (around 35%),

meal (64-69%) and hulls (3%). The oil content is nearly twice that of soybeans and 8 to 9 percent more than

rapeseed. The primary fatty acids in the seed oil are

erucic acid (approx. 55%).

Interest in crambe oil originally focused on the high

percentage of erucic acid, which had significant

implications for industrial uses, specifically the plastics

industry. Crambe oil's ability to withstand high

temperatures and remain liquid at low temperatures

make it a quality lubricant and transfer oil. Because it is a

very effective lubricant and much more biodegradable

than mineral oils, this oil may be used alone or as

additives for the textile, steel and shipping industries. The oil can also be used in pharmaceuticals, coating

agents, cosmetics, nylon and perfumes. More recently it is also being considered as an oil for use in biofuel

production, because its oil content ranges from 35 to 60 percent with potential yields of over 2,000 pounds per

acre.

The seed contains 30-35% oil. It has the same qualities as Jojoba Oil due to the high quantities of wax esters and

erucic esters, which give a silicon skin feeling. In industry, Crambe Seed Oil has been used as a lubricant, we

understand that this property is just as useful for skin care purposes and gives whole body massage oils fantastic

lubricating properties. Because it offer excellent glide, it will also be good for adding to body lotions.

Aromantic’s Organic Crambe Seed Oil is produced from the seeds of Organic Crambe Abyssinica, under UK Soil

Association Certified Organic processes, by means of pressing below 60° C.

The oil has a feint, neutral odour and a colour typically ranging from light to golden yellow. As this oil is

unrefined, there is some variation and appearance and odour but this is normal. Crambe oil will go cloudy at

temperatures below 20° C and will set into a waxy semi-solid below about 8° C.

Aromantic’s Organic Crambe Seed Oil is an excellent highly stable natural lubricant and emollient. It has a

unique skin-feel combining a light texture with enhanced slip properties without feeling too greasy – this is

attributed to its unique lipid profile.

Due to its high stability Crambe could also be considered as a natural alternative to mineral oils and silicones. It

gives a product a soft, smooth and silky feeling and the skin a radiance, shine and youthful appearance. Due to

Spotlight on...

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its silken nature gives a gliding feel.

Caution: Crambe Seed Oil is not suitable for internal consumption due to its high erucic acid content.

Fatty Acid Content of Crambe Seed Oil

Breakdown of fatty acid content –

average breakdown of Crambe Seed Oil

Continues on page 27

4.6%

8.3%

73.3%

7%

Saturated Fatty Acid Palmitic Acid 2%

Behenic Acid 2.1%

Arachidic Acid 1.4%

Stearic Acid 1%

Lignoceric Acid 0.5%

Monounsaturated Fatty Acid Erucic Acid 54%

Oleic Acid 18%

Nervonic Acid 1.2%

Palmitoleic Acid 0.1%

Duounsaturated Fatty Acid Linoleic Acid 8.3%

Polyunsaturated Fatty Acid Alpha Linolenic Acid 4.6%

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*TEWL=Transepidermal Water Loss

*AOM (Active Oxygen Method) Rancimat method = Both methods evaluate the effects of antioxidants on oils and food products

containing oils and fats. The Rancimat instrument is more efficient and effective while AOM is said to be a more complicated method.

Recommended Uses/Applications

We recommend Crambe Seed Oil for use in products which are designed to

give enhanced slip/lubricity and protection. Due to its high stability and skin-

feel, Crambe oil may be suitable as a natural replacement for synthetic oils

such as mineral oils and silicones.

Applications include:

• Massage Oils

• Hair Conditioning Lotions

• Shaving Products

• Lip Balms

• Dry Skin Lotions

Please see pages 8-9- for more information, for recipes see pg 30.

For website description or to order, click:

http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-crambe-seed-oil-organic-uk.htm

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Breakdown of fatty acid content –

average breakdown of Rice Bran CO2 Extract

2.5%

45%

4.5%

30.2%

Fatty Acid Content of

Rice Bran CO2 Extract Saturated Fatty Acid Palmitic Acid 12-22%

Stearic Acid 0.5-4%

Arachidic Acid ≤ 1.2%

Behenic Acid ≤ 1%

Eicosenic Acid ≤ 1%

Myristic Acid ≤ 1%

Monounsaturated Fatty Acid Oleic Acid 0.5-4%

Palmitoleic Acid ≤ 0.5%

Duounsaturated Fatty Acid Linoleic Acid 29-45%

Polyunsaturated Fatty Acid Alpha Linolenic Acid ≤ 2.5%

A message from Kolbjorn about the

Traditional Herbal Medicinal

Products Directive (THMPD) Regarding the new European directive legislation coming into force 1 May 2011,

I have been talking to people in the industry and the general consensus seems to

be that you don’t need to worry if you make purely cosmetic products that contain herbs in them but more

will become clear in the months ahead. The problem comes when you make medical claims for the product

when selling them to the public. However, if you are a qualified herbalist or aromatherapist and you sell the

products to your clients as part of the consultation, then that appears to be easier.

We can still sell tinctures that we have in stock before 1st

May (this stock is called legacy stock) for 2 years. After

that we will only be able to sell approved tinctures. Please don’t ask us which they are – that’s very much in

progress at the moment and not under our control but alcoholic extracts of single herbs seem to come out the

best so far in this law. We are also looking into the possibility of making glycerine-extracted herbs in the future.

As the main threat in the future appears to be to the herbal tinctures that we stock, we at Aromantic have a

very large stock of tinctures and we have made 500ml sizes available on our website to cater for our customers

who want to stock up. We are also allowed to sell our legacy stocks for two more years and by then we should

have other types of extracts to replace them with.

In the meantime make your voice heard by signing the Alliance for Natural Health petition against this fast-

approaching Directive. You can watch this free video outlining important information on European directive

against natural health and herbal remedies. http://www.savenaturalhealth.eu/ The video ends with a link to a

petition you can sign. AVAAZ also have a petition you can sign at http://www.avaaz.org/en/

eu_herbal_medicine_ban/ There are 32,000 of you on our email list – if we all sign the petition and pass it on

top your contacts, we can make a difference!

To a healthy future for all of us, Kolbjorn

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More information about THMPD

Quoting the Alliance for Natural Health website:

Together toward a better THMPD!

http://anh-europe.org/news/together-toward-a-better-thmpd

On Wednesday 23 March 2011, representatives of herbal medicine

drawn from across the European Union (EU) expressed broad support

for proposed legal action aimed at reforming the Traditional Herbal

Medicinal Products Directive (THMPD), at a meeting convened in

Brussels, Belgium by the Alliance for Natural Health International

(ANH-Intl) and the European Benefyt Foundation (EBF). ANH-Intl/EBF

received many offers to provide evidence for the legal case, underlining the industry's depth of concern at the

implications of the legislation.

The clock is ticking

On Sunday 1 May 2011, the THMPD was technically implemented in all EU Member States. This is the day that

many manufacturers and retailers of herbal products, as well as herbal medicine practitioners and consumers,

have been dreading. As we have written extensively in the past, many hundreds of herbal remedies, currently

sold off-the-shelf for relief of minor, self-limiting ailments, will become illegal from this date unless registered

under the THMPD scheme.

The 23 March meeting answered three main questions posed by the attendees, who represented

manufacturers, retailers, distributors and practitioners of herbal medicines from many EU Member States. Why

is a judicial review of the THMPD necessary? What will such legal action involve? And what are the chances of

success?

KEY POINTS

• The ANH-Intl/EBF judicial review of the THMPD is backed by a broad cross-section of European herbal

interests, many of whom have agreed to provide evidence

• Judicial review has become necessary largely because of flaws in the Directive's text and

implementation, plus failure of diplomacy and lobbying

• Disproportionality, transparency and discrimination represent legal grounds for the judicial review

• Judicial review seeks to reform, not overturn, the THMPD, with the ultimate goal of a regulatory

system inclusive of all traditions and practitioner-prescribed products

• A superb legal team will fight the judicial review, giving it every chance of success

Useful links:

Please watch this free video outlining important information on a crazy new European directive against natural

health and herbal remedies. http://www.savenaturalhealth.eu/. The video ends with a link to a petition you can

sign. AVAAZ, which is an organisation that seems to move mountains, also have a petition you

can sign at http://www.avaaz.org/en/eu_herbal_medicine_ban/ Thank you.

Video by ANH to challenge the European directive’s threat to the free use of traditional herbs.

http://www.anh-europe.org/videos/anh-challenge-to-eu-threat-to-traditional-herbs

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Method for making

Natural Leave-in Hair Conditioner

1) Heat Stage 1 over 70˚C in a bain-marie.

2) Measure Stage 2 into another beaker and

heat to over 70˚C.

3) Using a handheld electric whisk slowly add

Stage 2 INTO Stage 1, increasing the speed as

the oil is added.

4) Heat the water in Stage 3 and whisk in the

xanthan gum until it forms a light gel.

5) The add the blended Stage 2 and 1 INTO

Stage 3 to for a thin white solution.

6) When cooled to room temperature (or under

35˚C) stir Stage 4 in thoroughly.

Recipe Corner

Natural Leave-in Hair Conditioner

NB: This product involves heating. Makes 100ml.

Stage 1

(70-75ºC)

6g Cold Emulsifier

Stage 2

(70-75ºC)

3g Crambe Seed Oil

9g Shea Butter

8ml/g Sunflower Oil

Stage 2

(70-75ºC)

72ml Still Spring Water

0.2g Xanthan Gum

Stage 4

(75-80ºC)

1g Preservative Eco

10-12 drops Essential Oils

0.3g Vitamin E Oil (undiluted)

Salt Scrub

Not heated. NB The Body Scrub will turn to “milk”

when rinsed off or used on wet skin.

Makes 100ml.

Stage 1 20g Cold Emulsifier

Stage 2 63g Olive Oil

Stage 3 16g Fine Sea Salt

10-12 drops Essential Oils

0.3g Vitamin E Oil (undiluted)

New Recipes for Cold Emulsifier

Method for making Salt Scrub

1) Start the handheld electric whisk in stage 1

ingredients at quite a fast speed and then

slowly add Stage 2 ingredients INTO stage

1, increasing the speed as the oil is added.

2) Mix the Stage 3 ingredients into the Gel

(stage 1 and 2 combined).

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Recipe Corner

Recipes for Crambe Seed Oil

Crambe Seed Whole Body

Massage Oil

For dry, mature and sensitive skin. Makes 100ml.

30ml Crambe Seed Oil

25ml Jojoba Oil

20ml Apricot Kernel Oil

20ml Avocado Oil

4ml Thistle Oil

0.5g Vitamin E Oil

0.5ml/g

(10-12

drops)

Essential Oils

Crambe Seed Hair Oil

Apply as a hair treatment once or twice a week.

Makes 100ml.

25ml Crambe Seed Oil

20ml Jojoba Oil

20ml Thistle Oil

15ml Avocado Oil

5ml Shea Butter Oil

10ml Coconut Oil, Fractionated

4g Vitamin E Oil

5 drops Rosemary CO2 Extract

0.5ml/g

(10-12

drops)

Essential Oils

Method for making both

Oil Blends

1) Measure all of the ingredients and pour

into a bottle.

2) Secure lid and keep in a cool, dark place

away from direct sunlight.

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In memory of Louise It is with great sadness that we have to

inform you of the sudden passing away of

our dear friend and colleague, Louise

Hutcheson, on 29th March 2011, just four

days after her family discovered that she

had a very aggressive and rare cancer.

Louise was, for many you, your first contact

with Aromantic as she answered your phone

calls and returned your emails and queries,

always with good humour and a smile. Her

sister Jacqui, and her niece, Laura, also

work here at Aromantic.

Louise’s funeral was held on Tuesday 5th

April, the day before what would have been

her 40th birthday, and over 300 people,

most wearing something purple at Louise’s

request, came to pay their respects to this

remarkable woman. We’ll all miss her

presence, sense of humour,

mischievousness, and most of all her

radiant smile, which always extended to her

beautiful eyes.

On the day of Louise’s 40th birthday, as the

staff at Aromantic gathered for morning coffee,

a purple balloon blew up the lane and tapped

on the window before disappearing from view.

We all laughed, saying that it was our Louise stopping by to say hello. Imagine our surprise

when another member of staff walked in asked about the purple balloon that was wedged

between a pallet that had just been delivered and the outside wall beneath the window! We

brought in the balloon and it has since been given to Louise’s big sister, Jacqui, who gave it to

her Dad.

Farewell, our lovely Louise – we will always

remember you with love and laughter...and a few tears.

_Éâ|áx [âàv{xáÉÇ

6 April 1971 - 29 March 2011