Article 9 - Installing Floor Tiles

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    Installing Floor Tiles

    Laying floor tiles is a job for a professional tiler or a very competent DIY enthusiast because

    it usually requires special tools and a certain amount of skill to get it looking perfect. Laying

    a square or rectangular shaped tile may seem relatively easy but the difficulties arise when

    tiles have to be cut (as they always do) and shaped around obstacles in the room. Cutting

    hard tiles such as porcelain floor tiles or some types of natural stone is a job that only

    professional equipment can do properly. It is possible to hire the right equipment but that

    can be expensive and there is still a risk of ruining expensive porcelain tiles with a bad cut.

    If you are confident enough to install your floor tiles yourself, or whether you have

    employed a professional tiler, the most important thing to do first is prepare the surface

    onto which the tiles will be laid.

    If the existing floor is concrete then the job will be quite straightforward

    the mortar can beapplied directly to the floor and the tiles laid on top.

    If the existing floor is wooden then the solution is less simple - cement backer units (CBU)

    used with a moisture-proof membrane are a good choice for a wall tile substrate in wet

    areas and are often also used in order to strengthen a floor and provide a moisture barrier

    between the tiling and underlying wood. But cement backer units will not entirely prevent

    bending of a wooden floor under the weight of very heavy floor tiles. For very heavy tiles

    being installed over a wooden floor a plywood substrate will be needed.

    Once the substrate is prepared the area must be measured and the layout for your tile sizeplanned and marked out. A cement based adhesive (thinset mortar) is then applied in

    sections to the substrate with a trowel and each floor tile laid on top using the marked

    guidelines and plastic tile spacers to maintain even gaps between the tiles for the grout. The

    advantage of a thinset mortar is that it doesn't dry too quickly so you can shift the tiles

    slightly to get the perfect layout.

    As each section of floor tiles is laid the level should be checked with a large spirit level

    because floors are rarely entirely flat. Extra mortar can be used to even out areas where

    there is a slight difference in level.

    For hard tiles such as porcelain tiles a wet saw with a diamond blade is used to cut them

    around fixed obstacles such as sanitary ware, pipes and doorways.

    Once all of the tiles have been laid leave the mortar to dry thoroughly before beginning to

    fill the gaps between them with grout. There are three different types of grout available:

    Unsanded - for grout joints less than 3mm wide Sanded - for grout joints with a width of 3mm or more Epoxy a waterproof and stain resistant grout for any width of grout joint

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    Choosing the right type of grout for porcelain floor tiles will give a professional finish but will

    also reduce the amount of maintenance required, and if it is properly sealed it will last for as

    long as the porcelain tiles themselves.

    Avoid walking on the floor until the grout has completely dried this can take up to 2 days

    depending on the thickness of your tiles and on the width of the grout joints.

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    BLOGUsing the Correct Type of Groutby Roger

    There are three basic types of grout available for your tile installation. They are:

    Non-Sanded (also known as Unsanded) Sanded Epoxy

    Choosing the correct grout for your particular installation will not only complete the job

    correctly, it will also cut down on maintenance. Properly installed and sealed grout will last

    for the life of your tile. So which to use and when?

    Non-Sanded (or Unsanded) Grout

    Unsanded grout is made specifically for grout lines smaller than 1/8 inch wide. This is a

    general rule. I use unsanded grout only in tile with grout lines smaller than 1/16. Unsanded

    grout (all grout to different degrees) will shrink as it cures. The reason for only using it in

    smaller grout lines is the wider the grout lines, the more grout must be used to fill them. The

    more grout you have, the more it will shrink. If you try to fill grout lines that are too large the

    grout will shrink enough to pull away from the sides of the tile.

    Unsanded grout is easier to work with, especially on vertical surfaces such as a shower wall,

    because it is stickier than the sanded variety. You can spread it onto the wall and it will

    stick there while you force it into the grout lines. It is also much easier on the hands than

    sanded. Although it is easier to work with, you need to make sure that the application for

    which you are using it is correct.

    Sanded Grout

    Sanded Grout is used for any size grout lines 1/8 and wider. Although the specifications

    state unsanded grout be used in grout lines that are exactly 1/8, you really should use sanded

    for them. It will ensure proper adhesion to your tile and guard against too much shrinkage.No, not Seinfeld shrinkage, grout shrinkage.

    Sanded grout has fine sand added to it. This prevents the grout from shrinking too much as it

    cures. Thats why it is used for larger grout lines and should be used for the majority of tile

    installations.

    If you have a polished stone such as granite, marble, limestone, and some polished travertine,

    you should be careful about using sanded grout. While sanded may be the correct choice for

    the size of grout lines, it may not be the best choice. Depending upon the polish of the stone

    the sand in the grout may actually scratch it. If you decide to use sanded make sure you test it

    in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it will not scratch your finish. Or use epoxy whichwould be a better choice anyway.

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    Epoxy Grout

    Epoxy grout is the top of the line and best choice for any tile application. It can be substituted

    for sanded or unsanded grout. It is more sturdy than both as well as being waterproof and

    stain resistant.

    Epoxy is a two or three part chemical consisting of the base and the activator. With some

    brands the color is an additional part that must be added. Once the parts are mixed a chemical

    reaction begins. From that point, depending on the brand of epoxy, you have only a limited

    amount of time to get everything grouted before the grout becomes stiff enough to be

    unworkable. When it reaches that point, if you do not have everything grouted you are SOL.

    To help slow the cure time you can mix your epoxy then put half of it in the freezer. The coldair will slow the chemical reaction and lengthen the working time. You can then work with

    the other half until it is all used. Clean it up, wipe everything down, then grab the second half

    out of the freezer and finish up. When you first pull it out of the freezer it will be, well,

    frozen. It thaws quickly, though, so should be workable within a few minutes. Thisessentially doubles the working time of your grout and ensures you dont have to rush

    through it.

    Since most epoxy grouts do not contain sand (or at least not in the classic sense of sand) it

    will normally not scratch your tile. If you have highly polished granite or marble thats

    important. Be sure to test first anyway!

    Different brands of epoxy have different working times as well as some being more difficult

    to work with than others. The brand with which I have had the most luck and the only brand I

    ever use isSpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It has a longer working time than any other epoxygrout (at least any Ive ever used) and is virtually stain proof. Please dont take that to mean

    the you can grout a jacuzzi with it, fill it with cherry kool-aid, and expect it not to be pink

    (Dont do that). It just means that for all intents and purposes it will not stain without

    concerted effort. In my opinion it is the best on the market.

    The only drawback of epoxy grout would be the price. It is fairly expensive. When weighed

    against the upside, however, it is well worth it. Low maintenance demands and high

    durability of epoxy grout make it well worth the money.

    Picking the correct grout for your application is a key part of a proper tile installation. If you

    choose incorrectly you could end up with a multitude of problems and headaches. Grout,chosen and installed correctly, will complete your tile installation and push it from a good tile

    job to a great one. Do not underestimate the power of the grout.

    Before the Big Day

    Call a friend, hire a team, do whatever you need to do, but make sure you remove furnitureand other stuff from the room in which your new stone flooring will be installed. You

    probably dont want installers handling your precious things and they may charge you

    extra for the opportunity.

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    If you have gas appliances, contact the Gas Company about safely disconnecting and

    reconnecting these pieces. Ask your retailer about disconnecting and reconnecting such items

    as icemakers, stereo equipment and computers; and the removal of heavy items like pianos.

    Also, consult with your retailer to determine if you will be charged to have your toilet moved

    out and replaced if your are putting new flooring in your bathroom. If they cant do it, youmay need a plumber.

    Good Temps

    The area of installation must be climate controlled (heated or air conditioned). Indoor

    humidity should be maintained between 45-65%.

    The Old Flooring

    Will your new flooring be installed over your existing floor covering, or do you want your

    existing floors or carpets removed before the new one is put in? Removal of old flooring orcarpeting can be time consumingand someone has to haul it away and dispose of it

    responsibly. Be sure to discuss the situation with your installer and assume that at least one

    day will be spent on removal, cleanup and preparation.

    Choose a Trim

    In most cases, existing baseboards and moldings have to be removed prior to stone flooring

    installation. Do you want to keep what you have or go with something new? Be sure todiscuss this with your retailer or installer, who may charge extra for removal and

    reinstallation. Painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching after the

    installation is complete. If necessary, this is your responsibility.

    An Open Door Policy

    Interior doors often have space at the bottom to accommodate flooring. If yours do, then

    youre good to go. If yours dont or theyre cut for a thinner floorthan you install, then

    you may need a qualified carpenter to cut or shave the bottom of each affected door. Check

    with your installer about their door policy.

    Clean Up

    Stone flooring installation results in lots of trashold carpets or floors, plastic wrapping,

    remnants, fast food containers. Talk to your retailer or installer about his or her clean up

    policyand what is done with leftovers. You may want to save some pieces for other

    projects.

    Take A Day Off

    Its a good idea to be home on the day yournew floor is installed. Inevitably, questions will

    be asked. Decisions will need to be made. And nobody has an eye for the details of your

    home like you do. So take a vacation day, call in sick, work from homejust be there.

    Watch From A Distance

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    Various tools and methods can make the installation area hazardous to the health of your

    children and pets. Find a comfortable space in another room or outdoors while the work is

    taking place.

    Conduct A Walk-Thru

    Before your installer leaves, walk through the installation area together to ensure that every

    last detail meets or exceeds your expectations. Ask questions and make sure that you

    approve of both the product and the installation before making your final payment.

    Remember that stone flooring is a natural product and therefore can never be perfect.

    After the Install

    If you or your family members are sensitive to dust and odors, make sure the room is well

    ventilated for the next 48 to 72 hours.

    Proper prior planning is the key to a smooth and happy installation.

    Stone Floor Cleaning & Maintenance

    Stone flooring is an investment and one with a good return. Its almost guaranteed to add

    value to your home. Taking care of it isnt hard, but knowledge is power. Click here to find a

    professional stone floor cleaning company in your area.

    Its Its Own Worst Enemy

    Sand, grit, and dirt can damage natural stone surfaces because they are abrasive. Use a

    vacuum on your floor if its textured. But avoid the beater bar. Those bristles are tough and

    might scratch your flooring.

    An old-fashioned dust mop works well, as does a broom. Wet mop as needed.

    Be Proactive

    Walk-off mats or area rugs on either side of entrances from the outside will help collect dirtbefore it reaches your beautiful new floor. Choose a rug or mat with a non-slip surface.

    Theres Clean And Theres Cleaner

    Damp mopping your natural stone floor will help keep it looking beautiful. But your retailer

    or manufacturer can suggest special cleaners meant specifically for stone floors.

    Wipe up spills immediately. Use soap, not detergent, for good-old fashioned mopping. Liquid

    Ivory or a castile soap product work well. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and

    cause streaks, so rinse well. Change your rinse water frequently.

    http://www.wfca.org/FindMember.aspxhttp://www.wfca.org/FindMember.aspxhttp://www.wfca.org/FindMember.aspxhttp://www.wfca.org/FindMember.aspx
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    Dont use products that contain lemon juice, vinegar or other acids on marble, limestone, or

    travertine. Avoid abrasive cleaners or any ammonia-based cleaners. These products will dull

    the floors luster.

    Retail grout cleaners, scouring powders or bathroom tub and tile cleaners can mar the finish

    on your stone.

    Never mix bleach and ammonia. The combination creates a toxic gas.

    To remove algae or moss from your stone in outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with

    clear water and use a mild bleach solution.

    Last But Not Least

    Have a floor warming party! Ask your strongest friends to help you move your furniture back

    on to your new floor to avoid chipping, scratching, or cursing. Pad the feet of your furniture

    with felt pads or some other kind of protector to guard against damage.

    As with all new floors, its important to maintain the caulking in areas that are susceptible to

    water. You dont want water seeping under your flooring.

    Remember that each stone has its own level of porosity. The more porous the stone, the more

    likely it will stain. Sealing your stone floor may be a really good idea. Use a reliable

    professional.

    Unlike the proverbial rolling stone, yours have found their place in your home. Enjoy the

    beauty and timeless quality of your new stone flooring.

    FOR BLOG WITH THANKS TO wfca WORLD FLOOR COVERING ASSOCIATION