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7/31/2019 Article 9 - Installing Floor Tiles
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Installing Floor Tiles
Laying floor tiles is a job for a professional tiler or a very competent DIY enthusiast because
it usually requires special tools and a certain amount of skill to get it looking perfect. Laying
a square or rectangular shaped tile may seem relatively easy but the difficulties arise when
tiles have to be cut (as they always do) and shaped around obstacles in the room. Cutting
hard tiles such as porcelain floor tiles or some types of natural stone is a job that only
professional equipment can do properly. It is possible to hire the right equipment but that
can be expensive and there is still a risk of ruining expensive porcelain tiles with a bad cut.
If you are confident enough to install your floor tiles yourself, or whether you have
employed a professional tiler, the most important thing to do first is prepare the surface
onto which the tiles will be laid.
If the existing floor is concrete then the job will be quite straightforward
the mortar can beapplied directly to the floor and the tiles laid on top.
If the existing floor is wooden then the solution is less simple - cement backer units (CBU)
used with a moisture-proof membrane are a good choice for a wall tile substrate in wet
areas and are often also used in order to strengthen a floor and provide a moisture barrier
between the tiling and underlying wood. But cement backer units will not entirely prevent
bending of a wooden floor under the weight of very heavy floor tiles. For very heavy tiles
being installed over a wooden floor a plywood substrate will be needed.
Once the substrate is prepared the area must be measured and the layout for your tile sizeplanned and marked out. A cement based adhesive (thinset mortar) is then applied in
sections to the substrate with a trowel and each floor tile laid on top using the marked
guidelines and plastic tile spacers to maintain even gaps between the tiles for the grout. The
advantage of a thinset mortar is that it doesn't dry too quickly so you can shift the tiles
slightly to get the perfect layout.
As each section of floor tiles is laid the level should be checked with a large spirit level
because floors are rarely entirely flat. Extra mortar can be used to even out areas where
there is a slight difference in level.
For hard tiles such as porcelain tiles a wet saw with a diamond blade is used to cut them
around fixed obstacles such as sanitary ware, pipes and doorways.
Once all of the tiles have been laid leave the mortar to dry thoroughly before beginning to
fill the gaps between them with grout. There are three different types of grout available:
Unsanded - for grout joints less than 3mm wide Sanded - for grout joints with a width of 3mm or more Epoxy a waterproof and stain resistant grout for any width of grout joint
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Choosing the right type of grout for porcelain floor tiles will give a professional finish but will
also reduce the amount of maintenance required, and if it is properly sealed it will last for as
long as the porcelain tiles themselves.
Avoid walking on the floor until the grout has completely dried this can take up to 2 days
depending on the thickness of your tiles and on the width of the grout joints.
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BLOGUsing the Correct Type of Groutby Roger
There are three basic types of grout available for your tile installation. They are:
Non-Sanded (also known as Unsanded) Sanded Epoxy
Choosing the correct grout for your particular installation will not only complete the job
correctly, it will also cut down on maintenance. Properly installed and sealed grout will last
for the life of your tile. So which to use and when?
Non-Sanded (or Unsanded) Grout
Unsanded grout is made specifically for grout lines smaller than 1/8 inch wide. This is a
general rule. I use unsanded grout only in tile with grout lines smaller than 1/16. Unsanded
grout (all grout to different degrees) will shrink as it cures. The reason for only using it in
smaller grout lines is the wider the grout lines, the more grout must be used to fill them. The
more grout you have, the more it will shrink. If you try to fill grout lines that are too large the
grout will shrink enough to pull away from the sides of the tile.
Unsanded grout is easier to work with, especially on vertical surfaces such as a shower wall,
because it is stickier than the sanded variety. You can spread it onto the wall and it will
stick there while you force it into the grout lines. It is also much easier on the hands than
sanded. Although it is easier to work with, you need to make sure that the application for
which you are using it is correct.
Sanded Grout
Sanded Grout is used for any size grout lines 1/8 and wider. Although the specifications
state unsanded grout be used in grout lines that are exactly 1/8, you really should use sanded
for them. It will ensure proper adhesion to your tile and guard against too much shrinkage.No, not Seinfeld shrinkage, grout shrinkage.
Sanded grout has fine sand added to it. This prevents the grout from shrinking too much as it
cures. Thats why it is used for larger grout lines and should be used for the majority of tile
installations.
If you have a polished stone such as granite, marble, limestone, and some polished travertine,
you should be careful about using sanded grout. While sanded may be the correct choice for
the size of grout lines, it may not be the best choice. Depending upon the polish of the stone
the sand in the grout may actually scratch it. If you decide to use sanded make sure you test it
in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it will not scratch your finish. Or use epoxy whichwould be a better choice anyway.
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Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is the top of the line and best choice for any tile application. It can be substituted
for sanded or unsanded grout. It is more sturdy than both as well as being waterproof and
stain resistant.
Epoxy is a two or three part chemical consisting of the base and the activator. With some
brands the color is an additional part that must be added. Once the parts are mixed a chemical
reaction begins. From that point, depending on the brand of epoxy, you have only a limited
amount of time to get everything grouted before the grout becomes stiff enough to be
unworkable. When it reaches that point, if you do not have everything grouted you are SOL.
To help slow the cure time you can mix your epoxy then put half of it in the freezer. The coldair will slow the chemical reaction and lengthen the working time. You can then work with
the other half until it is all used. Clean it up, wipe everything down, then grab the second half
out of the freezer and finish up. When you first pull it out of the freezer it will be, well,
frozen. It thaws quickly, though, so should be workable within a few minutes. Thisessentially doubles the working time of your grout and ensures you dont have to rush
through it.
Since most epoxy grouts do not contain sand (or at least not in the classic sense of sand) it
will normally not scratch your tile. If you have highly polished granite or marble thats
important. Be sure to test first anyway!
Different brands of epoxy have different working times as well as some being more difficult
to work with than others. The brand with which I have had the most luck and the only brand I
ever use isSpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It has a longer working time than any other epoxygrout (at least any Ive ever used) and is virtually stain proof. Please dont take that to mean
the you can grout a jacuzzi with it, fill it with cherry kool-aid, and expect it not to be pink
(Dont do that). It just means that for all intents and purposes it will not stain without
concerted effort. In my opinion it is the best on the market.
The only drawback of epoxy grout would be the price. It is fairly expensive. When weighed
against the upside, however, it is well worth it. Low maintenance demands and high
durability of epoxy grout make it well worth the money.
Picking the correct grout for your application is a key part of a proper tile installation. If you
choose incorrectly you could end up with a multitude of problems and headaches. Grout,chosen and installed correctly, will complete your tile installation and push it from a good tile
job to a great one. Do not underestimate the power of the grout.
Before the Big Day
Call a friend, hire a team, do whatever you need to do, but make sure you remove furnitureand other stuff from the room in which your new stone flooring will be installed. You
probably dont want installers handling your precious things and they may charge you
extra for the opportunity.
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If you have gas appliances, contact the Gas Company about safely disconnecting and
reconnecting these pieces. Ask your retailer about disconnecting and reconnecting such items
as icemakers, stereo equipment and computers; and the removal of heavy items like pianos.
Also, consult with your retailer to determine if you will be charged to have your toilet moved
out and replaced if your are putting new flooring in your bathroom. If they cant do it, youmay need a plumber.
Good Temps
The area of installation must be climate controlled (heated or air conditioned). Indoor
humidity should be maintained between 45-65%.
The Old Flooring
Will your new flooring be installed over your existing floor covering, or do you want your
existing floors or carpets removed before the new one is put in? Removal of old flooring orcarpeting can be time consumingand someone has to haul it away and dispose of it
responsibly. Be sure to discuss the situation with your installer and assume that at least one
day will be spent on removal, cleanup and preparation.
Choose a Trim
In most cases, existing baseboards and moldings have to be removed prior to stone flooring
installation. Do you want to keep what you have or go with something new? Be sure todiscuss this with your retailer or installer, who may charge extra for removal and
reinstallation. Painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching after the
installation is complete. If necessary, this is your responsibility.
An Open Door Policy
Interior doors often have space at the bottom to accommodate flooring. If yours do, then
youre good to go. If yours dont or theyre cut for a thinner floorthan you install, then
you may need a qualified carpenter to cut or shave the bottom of each affected door. Check
with your installer about their door policy.
Clean Up
Stone flooring installation results in lots of trashold carpets or floors, plastic wrapping,
remnants, fast food containers. Talk to your retailer or installer about his or her clean up
policyand what is done with leftovers. You may want to save some pieces for other
projects.
Take A Day Off
Its a good idea to be home on the day yournew floor is installed. Inevitably, questions will
be asked. Decisions will need to be made. And nobody has an eye for the details of your
home like you do. So take a vacation day, call in sick, work from homejust be there.
Watch From A Distance
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Various tools and methods can make the installation area hazardous to the health of your
children and pets. Find a comfortable space in another room or outdoors while the work is
taking place.
Conduct A Walk-Thru
Before your installer leaves, walk through the installation area together to ensure that every
last detail meets or exceeds your expectations. Ask questions and make sure that you
approve of both the product and the installation before making your final payment.
Remember that stone flooring is a natural product and therefore can never be perfect.
After the Install
If you or your family members are sensitive to dust and odors, make sure the room is well
ventilated for the next 48 to 72 hours.
Proper prior planning is the key to a smooth and happy installation.
Stone Floor Cleaning & Maintenance
Stone flooring is an investment and one with a good return. Its almost guaranteed to add
value to your home. Taking care of it isnt hard, but knowledge is power. Click here to find a
professional stone floor cleaning company in your area.
Its Its Own Worst Enemy
Sand, grit, and dirt can damage natural stone surfaces because they are abrasive. Use a
vacuum on your floor if its textured. But avoid the beater bar. Those bristles are tough and
might scratch your flooring.
An old-fashioned dust mop works well, as does a broom. Wet mop as needed.
Be Proactive
Walk-off mats or area rugs on either side of entrances from the outside will help collect dirtbefore it reaches your beautiful new floor. Choose a rug or mat with a non-slip surface.
Theres Clean And Theres Cleaner
Damp mopping your natural stone floor will help keep it looking beautiful. But your retailer
or manufacturer can suggest special cleaners meant specifically for stone floors.
Wipe up spills immediately. Use soap, not detergent, for good-old fashioned mopping. Liquid
Ivory or a castile soap product work well. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and
cause streaks, so rinse well. Change your rinse water frequently.
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Dont use products that contain lemon juice, vinegar or other acids on marble, limestone, or
travertine. Avoid abrasive cleaners or any ammonia-based cleaners. These products will dull
the floors luster.
Retail grout cleaners, scouring powders or bathroom tub and tile cleaners can mar the finish
on your stone.
Never mix bleach and ammonia. The combination creates a toxic gas.
To remove algae or moss from your stone in outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with
clear water and use a mild bleach solution.
Last But Not Least
Have a floor warming party! Ask your strongest friends to help you move your furniture back
on to your new floor to avoid chipping, scratching, or cursing. Pad the feet of your furniture
with felt pads or some other kind of protector to guard against damage.
As with all new floors, its important to maintain the caulking in areas that are susceptible to
water. You dont want water seeping under your flooring.
Remember that each stone has its own level of porosity. The more porous the stone, the more
likely it will stain. Sealing your stone floor may be a really good idea. Use a reliable
professional.
Unlike the proverbial rolling stone, yours have found their place in your home. Enjoy the
beauty and timeless quality of your new stone flooring.
FOR BLOG WITH THANKS TO wfca WORLD FLOOR COVERING ASSOCIATION