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A Artisanal Publication published by HauteLife Press
Citation preview
A Renaissance at Picholine drawing back the curtain
Reigning in Spain a culinary expedition
An Entertaining Match cheese & beer
Happy Goats make great cheese
Plus: A bouquet of perfect pAirings from the wine cellAr
2008
2 0 0 8
The Artisanal Table
All trademarks are owned by Green & Black’s Chocolate Limited. ©2008 Green & Black’s Chocolate Limited.
®
We insist on Trinitario cocoa beans. And they must be grown organically,
ensuring absolutely nothing gets in the way of their intense flavor.
As for our almonds, they are only to be roasted whole with their skins on,
adding extra richness and depth. Nuts? Maybe a little.
greenandblacks.com
t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e • 2 0 0 8 3
i n t h i s i s s u e co
nt
en
ts
4 Picholine: Renovations and Revisions
setting a new tone with a menu that returns to its mediterranean roots.
13 in SeaSon: Spring Recipes
mouthwatering dishes inspired by the season’s finest ingredients.
The Artisanal Table
7 TRavel: a culinary Tour Through Spain
“mr. spain,” gerry dawes, takes terrance brennan on a “maniac’s eating trip.”
15 PuRveyoR PRofile: vermont Butter and cheese up close
caring for animals the right way results in happy goats and spectacular cheese.
10 PaiRingS: outdoor Weather calls for Beer and cheese
six beers and six cheeses. terrance brennan recommends a selection of unique flavor combinations.
11 Wine: complementing Spring Dishes
wine director Jason miller picks his favorite wines to match chef brennan’s dishes.
4 7
15
10
13
11
2 0 0 8 • t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e4
except for the place
settings, every facet
of picholine’s interior
design has been altered.
from the moment
guests enter through
the new hand-carved
wood doors, the
restaurant’s revitalized
modern décor is
evident. highlights of
the changes include
new furnishings,
wallpaper, fabrics, color
scheme, artwork, wall
sconces, and flooring,
as well as a new seating
schematic and menu.
Dear FrienDs,
As we approach spring, the season of growth and
renewal, I’ve been reflecting on how those two ideas
have been so important to our restaurants in the
last year. We’ve seen growth and renewal in both
Picholine and Artisanal, and the process has helped
us visualize the future of these restaurants while
grounding each firmly in our original intentions for
them.
Picholine’s interior was completely renovated into
a setting that feels lighter and more modern. The
renewal of the dining room then informed the
revamping of the menu, which had evolved from
its French-Mediterranean roots, 15 years ago, to a
formal haute cuisine. I felt strongly about returning
to our roots and so, without losing any familiarity,
the menu has returned to the Mediterranean. The
menu has become more flexible and less structured.
Dishes are divided into sections titled Preludes, Day
Boats, and The Land, and diners are invited to create
meals according to their appetite and whim. It was
invigorating for me as a creative person to look upon
Picholine with new eyes. Fifteen years after opening
our doors, I am more energized and impassioned
than ever, and I continue to strive for excellence every
day. All of that hard work has earned us a coveted
two-star Michelin rating, and we still have more goals
to achieve. I hope our loyal friends (and new ones as
well) will enjoy the restaurant for years to come.
The menu at Artisanal also was enhanced this
year, with a new section devoted entirely to steak.
My vision for the restaurant continues to develop,
and in the coming months we will look to expand
into other cities. Each Artisanal will feature its own
cheese cave, and cheeses we serve will be governed by
what is locally available. Like the New York flagship,
which serves over 160 wines by the glass, flights of
wine will continue to be a key element of Artisanal
menus, as well as the seasonality of ingredients. It is
also my wish to continue to support sustainability by
working with local farms, growers, and fisheries.
Spring also brings bountiful green markets and new
season plantings. Leaving the wild game and truffles
behind, I relish the prospect of shopping these
markets and seeking out the local farmers whose
products inspire me. Preparing food that is of the
highest quality and raised with passion and integrity
is the greatest gift I can give my guests.
Best regards,
Chef Terrance Brennan
c h e f t A l k s
ne
ws
&
n
ot
es
4
t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e • 2 0 0 8 5
2 0 0 8 • t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e6
t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e • 2 0 0 8 7
In early September, the two arrived in Madrid and
began a thrilling nine-day, nonstop food and wine
tour that even the most seasoned culinary travelers
might find daunting. The first lunch, and one of the
most memorable, was at Kaia, located in the small
fishing village of Getaria along the Basque coast. The
pair ate fresh turbot, grilled over coals in the open air,
served with nothing more than olive oil and lemon.
For Terrance, the combination of perfectly fresh fish,
grilled and brought to the table whole, was one of
the finest meals he had during a week of exemplary
dining.
“The turbot was plucked out
of the water just hours before
and then grilled on the bone.
For a dish like that, it’s all about
quality and simplicity.
It was perfect.”
Still full, but raring to go the next morning, the
two visited the Ordizia market outside of San
Sebastián where, fortuitously, they were able to
watch an Idiazabal cheese contest judged by chefs
whose cumulative Michelin stars Gerry estimates
at about 15. A lunch of grilled red peppers and
steak with the chef judges preceded a second lunch
at Casa Cámara in Pasajes de San Juan, where the
two dined on beans with clams and the restaurant’s
renowned apple dessert. After a brief respite, they
were up and out for dinner, this time at Arzak, where
Terrance spoke at length with Juan Mari Arzak, the
“father of Spanish culinary invention,” and toured
the restaurant’s research laboratory. “The test kitchen
was remarkable to me,” said Terrance, “less so for what
they were researching than for the absolute luxury that
enabled them to do it. Imagine the space, time, and
staff that it requires to run a lab—we barely have time
to cook in New York!”
The following day yielded more culinary highlights.
7
s p A i n tr
Av
el
As with most culinary adventures, for Terrance Brennan it began as an occasional whisper. Then it became a persistent drone. And, finally, a
repetitive shout: spain! go to spain! experience foam, molecular gastronomy, innovation, and invention! spain is the new france! it was hard
to ignore, so when his longtime friend gerry Dawes suggested a “maniac’s eating trip,” terrance leapt at the idea. Dawes, often referred
to as “mr. spain,” is an expert on that country’s food, wine, and culture, and was the ideal person with whom to make the pilgrimage.
Reigning in Spain
>
blazing through a culinary tour
photography by gerry dawes
2 0 0 8 • t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e8
First, on the drive from San Sebastián to Madrid,
Gerry and Terrance stopped in the Ribera del Duero
for a lunch of baby lamb chops grilled over grapevine
cuttings accompanied by the wines of Viña Pedrosa.
And, while tapas hopping in Madrid that evening,
the two made a stop for huevos estrellados (fried eggs
broken over fried potatoes) at Lucio, where this dish
is a specialty of the house; incidentally, it is featured
on the brunch menu at Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro
& Wine Bar. Once again, it was the elegant simplicity
of these minimally worked ingredients—lamb chops,
eggs, and potatoes—that made the dishes shine.
More stops—Córdoba, Sevilla, Ronda, Grazalema,
Valencia, Barcelona, Madrid—generated more meals
along with more local wines and regional specialties.
From the fresh, steamed shellfish in El Puerto de
Santa Maria, to the wild chanterelles in Barcelona,
the paella in Valencia, and the roast suckling pig
in Madrid (eaten at, reputedly, the oldest Spanish
restaurant in continual operation), each dish was
served with pride by its creator.
On the plane home, curiosity and appetite sated, Terrance reflected on his journey...
Restaurante Kaia calle general arnao, 4 20808 getaria
tel +34 943 140 500
Restaurante casa cámara san Juan, 79 pasajes de san Juan
tel +34 943 523 699
los huevos de lucio cava baja, 30 28005 madrid
tel +34 913 662 984
arzak avenida alcalde José elosegui, 273 20015 donostia san sebastián
tel +34 943 278 465 www.arzak.es
casa Botín (world’s oldest restaurant) cuchilleros, 17 madrid
tel +34 913 664 217
Bar Modesto (tapas, sevilla) cano y cueto, 5 sevilla
tel +34 954 416 811
WheRe To eaT:
“The whole experience of being in Spain, where cooks take pride not just in their work, but in the
provenance of the ingredients they use, was so striking to me. This is how
I feel at my own restaurants.”
WheRe To STay:
hotel londres zubieta, 2 20007 san sebastián
tel +34 943 440 770 www.hlondres.com
hotel wellington c/ Velázquez, 8 28001 madrid
tel +34 915 754 400 www.hotel-wellington.com
© 2008 Kobricks Coffee Company Inc. All Rights Reserved
RFD
www.kobricks.com800-562-7491
IOB
ED
2 0 0 8 • t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e
A Crafty Matchb e e r & c h e e s e
en
te
rt
Ain
ing
cabecou Feuille with blanche de chambly
cabecou Feuille is a French goat’s milk cheese ripened in chestnut leaves and studded with black peppercorns. the blanche de chambly is brewed by unibroue in Quebec and is a belgian-style witbier. witbiers are traditionally brewed with mostly wheat (sometimes some oat) in the grain bill, with spices added (the traditional spices are orange peel and coriander). the fruit and spice notes in both the beer and the cheese complement each other.
tomme d’alsace with pinkus munster alt
tomme d’alsace is a cow’s milk cheese from alsace lorraine washed in pinot gris. it is meaty and fruity. the pinkus munster alt comes from munster, germany, north of dusseldorf. Alt means old and is thought to refer to the longer aging time of this ale. it is yeasty, malty, and slightly fruity. the pinkus alt is also organic. the beer and cheese each complement each other’s fruit notes, and the crispness of the brew refreshes the palate.
doddington with dogfish head’s raison d’etre
doddington is a british cow’s milk, and a kind of cheddar and gouda mix. it is flaky like a cheddar but has some of the caramel notes of an aged gouda. it is savory with a touch of salt. raison d’etre is brewed by dogfish head brewery in milton, delaware, with green raisins and belgian yeast. it is quite malty and sweet with a pronounced green raisin note. the sweet maltiness of the beer helps to refresh after the salty strength of the doddington.
hooligan with st. ambroise oatmeal stout
hooligan is a washed-rind cow’s milk from connecticut with meaty, buttermilky, and subtle raw cocoa notes. it complements the st. ambroise, which is a drier stout with coffee and roasted-malt notes.
hoch ybrig with chimay blue
hoch ybrig is a swiss cow’s milk cheese from schwyz, 50 miles east of zurich. it is nutty and has a sweetness reminiscent of bananas. the chimay blue is made by a trappist monastery in southwestern belgium. the blue is the monastery’s grande reserve, and is a strong dark ale. it is very fruity, with pronounced fig and raisin notes. together with the cheese, the beer’s fruitiness is highlighted and the nuttiness of the cheese is brought forward.
rogue river blue with tripel karmeliet
rogue river blue is a cow’s milk blue from oregon, aged in napa Valley cabernet sauvignon leaves that have been soaked in pear brandy. wonderfully complex and decadent, it is woody, boozy, rich, and fruity, with a well-balanced strength. the belgian brew tripel karmeliet—named tripels because they use three times the malts of average beers—is very complex, with green raisin, vanilla bean, and pear notes. karmeliet is strong enough to stand up to the rogue river, and together the beer and cheese bring out each other’s similar fruit notes. 10 2 0 0 8 • a r t i s a n a l t a b l e
artisan brews and cheeses
the warmth of spring is a call for terrance brennan to head
outdoors and enjoy meals with his family and friends on his patio
or a picnic table on the grass. “I’m not yet ready to grill, but I’m
ready to enjoy the weather.” Celebrate the flavors of the season,
indoors or out, in a unique way by pairing these selected cheeses
from Artisanal fromagerie, bistro & wine bar with beer.
t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e • 2 0 0 8
in seasonChef and Sommelier Spring Pairings
11
Jason miller, general manager and wine Director of picholine, suggests the following wines to
accompany chef terrance brennan’s spring recipes. each wine, chosen by Jason from picholine’s
impressive 650-label cellar, represents the best in its category. the producers listed are “old school, purists
who have a profound understanding of the wine process and manipulate their product as little as possible.”
w i n e en
te
rt
Ain
ing
one of my favorite springtime wines:
gevrey-chambertin domaine armand
rousseau 1er cru
“clos st. Jacques”
this is my favorite region on the planet
and one of my choice producers. it is the
picture of finesse and elegance: silky and
velvety, with flavors of black cherry and
star anise.
sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi with morels and asparagus
gruner Veltliner sighardt donabaum “zornberg” smaragd wachau
A medium- to full-bodied wine with notes of pineapple and white pepper and a gripping acidity that matches perfectly with asparagus.
slow-baked wild salmon with artichokes barigoule and parsley pistou
condrieu “la petite cote” yves cuilleron
A full-bodied wine with intense floral, peach, honeysuckle, and exotic spice flavors.
grilled lamb chop with rhubarb compote
“torbido” cascina ebreo
A powerful and complex wine, this 100 percent nebbiolo delivers a bouquet of ripe fruit on the nose followed by flavors of cinnamon and licorice on the palate. pairs well with suckling pig, game, and fowl.
pavlova with wild strawberries and aged balsamic Vinegar
champagne taittinger prestige rosé reims
An elegant champagne with hints of delicate cherry blossom and red berries.
The face of hunger in America is too often the face of a kid. It’s easy to miss. You don’t see how her dad is stretching money to the point where a pizza has to last a week. Or that she’s not getting the nutrition she needs to grow. An invisible hunger affects over 12 million kids right here in the world’s wealthiest nation. You can help end this disgrace. See how at strength.org
monday
tuesd
ay
wednesday
thursday
friday
saturda
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sund
ay
t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e • 2 0 0 8 13
w i n e
sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi with morels and asparagus slow-baked wild salmon with artichokes barigoule and parsley pistou
grilled lamb chop with rhubarb compote pavlova with wild strawberries and aged balsamic Vinegar
2 0 0 8 • t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e14
ingreDients
4 salmon fillets
1 c + 4 tbs extra virgin olive oil
1/2 c peeled, thinly sliced carrot
1/3 c thinly sliced fennel
1/2 c thinly sliced onion
4 whole artichoke hearts, quartered
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
coarse sea salt
1 1/2 c dry white wine
1 1/2 c white chicken stock
4 sprigs thyme
3 bay leaves
1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed
1 tbs fresh lemon juice
2 tbs garlic confit (optional)
white pepper in a mill
parsley pistou (see recipe)
ingreDients
2 c wild strawberries, stems removed
balsamic vinegar
2 large egg whites, at room temperature
1/2 tsp white vinegar
1/8 tsp fine sea salt
6 tsp superfine sugar
1/2 tsp cornstarch
crème chantilly (see recipe)
ingreDients
1/2 tsp ground allspice, preferably fresh ground
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1 tsp grated fresh ginger
1 tsp lemon juice
1/2 c water
1 c rhubarb, 2-inch dice (from 6 ounces rhubarb, 1 to 2 peeled stalks)
1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seed scraped
1/4 c sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
ingreDients
1 c flat-leaf parsley cleaned and picked
2/3 c olive oil
3/4 tsp chopped garlic
1 tsp kosher salt
ingreDients
1 c sheep’s milk ricotta
2 tbs finely grated parmigiano-reggiano
1/2 c + 3 tbs all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting a work surface
1 egg yolk
kosher salt
pinch ground nutmeg
pinch cayenne
8 quarts water
1/4 pound medium asparagus, bottom stems trimmed, peeled from 1 inch below the tip, and cut diagonally into 1 1/2 inch pieces
1 1/2 tbs olive oil (if making the gnocchi recipe in advance)
morel sAuce:
1 cup fresh morels (2 to 2 1/2 ounces) larger ones cut in half
4 cups warm water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons finely diced shallots
kosher salt
1/2 cup white chicken stock
1 1/4cups heavy cream
ingreDients
1/4 c + 1 tbs olive oil
2 tbs rosemary leaves
1 large lemon, thinly sliced
6 cloves garlic, crushed
12 domestic or Australian lamb chops, 2 – 3 ounces each, trimmed of excess fat
slow-baked wild salmon with Artichokes barigoule and parsley pistou serves 4
pavlova with wild strawberries and Aged balsamic vinegar serves 4
crème chantilly makes about 2 cups
rhubarb compote makes about 3/4 cup
parsley pistou makes about 3/4 cup
sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi with morels and Asparagus serves 4
grilled lamb chop with rhubarb compote serves 4
methoDPreheat the oven to 250˚F. place salmon fillets in a baking dish without crowding. pour 1/2 cup of olive oil over the top. transfer to oven for 18 to 20 minutes. remove from oven, add salt to taste, set aside, and keep warm.Preheat oven to 350˚F. pour 1/4 cup olive oil into a heavy-bottomed, 4-quart pot and heat over medium heat. Add carrots, fennel, onion, artichokes, crushed garlic, and a pinch of salt. cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned. pour in wine, bring to boil over high, then lower to simmer until reduced by three quarters. pour in stock and add thyme, bay leaves, and lemon. bring to boil over high. cover pot and transfer to oven. cook until a knife pierces easily into center of an artichoke. remove pot from oven; leave oven on.use a ladle to skim off one cup of cooking liquid; pour into bowl. use tongs to pick out and discard lemon slices, bay leaf, and thyme sprigs. set aside vegetables in their liquid and keep warm.pour the skimmed cup of cooking liquid into a heavy-bottomed, 2-quart saucepan. Add garlic confit (if using) and bring to boil over medium heat. lower heat and let simmer until reduced by one quarter. remove from heat. use an immersion blender while gradually adding the remaining olive oil to the sauce to form a creamy, thick emulsion. (this can also be done in a standing blender.) Add lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste.use a slotted spoon to transfer the reserved vegetables to an 8-inch saucepan over low heat and cook until hot. toss vegetables with reserved sauce and gently warm over low heat. to serve, divide the dressed vegetables and sauce among 4 shallow bowls. place a salmon fillet on top of the vegetables in each bowl. Drizzle parsley pistou (see recipe) over and around the fish. serve immediately.
methoD
line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Draw four circles, 3-1/2 inches in diameter, on the paper, leaving about 2 inches of space all around each circle.
put 1 cup of strawberries in a blender and purée until smooth. sugar may be added to taste. transfer strawberries to a container and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 300˚F.
make the pavlovas: put egg whites, vinegar, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. whisk on high speed until soft peaks just begin to form. gently and gradually sprinkle in superfine sugar, and continue to beat on high just until the whites hold their shape.
sift the cornstarch into the egg-white mixture, folding gently with a rubber spatula until all is incorporated and being careful not to deflate the whites by overmixing.
transfer the egg-white mixture into a pastry bag fitted with the plain tip and pipe four rounds, 3-1/2 inches (diameter) by approximately 2-1/2 inches (height), onto the lined cookie sheet, using the drawn circles as your guide, in a spiral with increasingly narrow circles that taper toward the top. bake for 25 minutes; turn off oven and leave the meringues in oven for another 25 minutes. remove the sheet from the oven and let meringues, or pavlovas, cool to room temperature.
to serve, use a small paring knife to remove a tablespoon-size hole from the top of each pavlova. spoon some strawberries into the hole, top with crème chantilly, drizzle aged balsamic vinegar on top, and serve.
methoD
pour the cream into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. put everything in the bowl and whisk at high speed until soft peaks form. serve.
methoD
in a 2-quart saucepan, combine the allspice, cardamom, ginger, lemon juice, water, rhubarb, vanilla, sugar, and salt. bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer until the mixture is dry, approximately 20 minutes.
cover and refrigerate the marmalade for up to 5 days. reheat before serving.
methoD:put the parsley, oil, garlic, and salt in a blender. pulse and blend for approximately 1 minute until smooth. this pistou can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
methoD
put the ricotta in a cheesecloth-lined colander and use a rubber spatula to push as much liquid as possible out of the cheese. then gather up the ends of the cloth and turn them over and over again (as though wringing a towel), tightening its hold on the cheese and squeezing any lingering liquid out of it.
put the ricotta, parmigiano-reggiano, flour, egg yolk, 1/2 teaspoon salt, nutmeg and cayenne in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. process until the mixture comes together into a smooth ball of dough, taking care not to overmix. if the dough feels sticky, work in some more flour. transfer the dough to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Dust a rimmed baking sheet or cookie sheet lightly with flour. lightly flour a work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions. roll 1 portion at a time into a rope-like cylinder, 3/4-inch in diameter, and cut the cylinder into 1-inch pieces. gently make an indentation with your thumb in 1 side of each piece and gather the pieces in a single layer on the baking sheet. repeat with the remaining cylinders, adding more flour to the surface as needed.
cover the gnocchi with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. this will firm them up and help them hold their shape when cooked.
put the morels in a bowl and cover with the warm water. soak, agitating the mushrooms in the water to release any dirt or grit. use your hands to lift the mushrooms out of the water, then discard the water. Do this 2 or 3 times, or more if necessary.
melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium heat. Add the
methoD
put 1/4 cup oil, rosemary, lemon slices, and garlic in a large plastic bag. Add the lamb, seal the bag, and shake to coat the chops on both sides with the marinade. place in refrigerator for up to 6 hours, shaking the bag every hour or so to mix thoroughly. Allow lamb to sit out for 1 hour before cooking.
in a heavy-bottomed sauté pan, over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon oil. remove the chops from the marinade, letting any excess liquid run off. put the lamb on a plate and season well with salt and pepper. place the chops in the sauté pan and allow them to cook for about 2 minutes per side to medium rare (a meat thermometer will read 120˚F to 125˚F). Just before serving, give the chops a final turn to briefly reheat.
transfer 3 chops to each of 4 plates. serve with rhubarb compote.
shallots and a pinch of salt, and cook until softened by not browned, approximately 2 minutes. Add the morels and cook, stirring, approximately 5 minutes.
pour in the stock, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until reduced by three-quarters, approximately 3 minutes. lower the heat, stir in the cream, and let simmer until reduced by half, approximately 12 minutes. the mixture should have reduced to about 1 1/4 cups and be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. season with salt. cover and set aside, keeping warm at room temperature.
pour 2 quarts of water into a 3-quart stockpot, add 2 tablespoons of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook until al dente, approximately 2 minutes. Drain and transfer the asparagus to the ice water to stop the cooking and preserve the color. once chilled, drain again.
pour 6 quarts of water into an 8-quart stockpot, add 1 tablespoon of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Add the gnocchi to the boiling water and cook them until they float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes. use a slotted spoon to transfer the gnocchi to the ice water, and then to a clean, dry bowl. if not serving the gnocchi immediately, toss with the olive oil, cover, and set aside for up to 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours. when ready to serve, reheat in boiling water until they rise to the surface.
heat the morel sauce in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the gnocchi and asparagus, and toss to heat and combine the components of the dish. Divide among 4 dinner plates or bowls and serve.
ingreDients
1 c cold heavy cream
2 tsp superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
pinch of salt
t h e a r t i s a n a l t a b l e • 2 0 0 8 15
c h e e s e pr
ize
D
pu
rv
ey
or
On a whim, and with no farming experience,
Allison started writing letters to organic farmers
in the late ‘70s seeking a hands-on education in
working the land. Eventually, her journey took
her to the countryside of France, where her love
for the European tradition of small-batch artisanal
cheesemaking gathered momentum. In 1984 she
launched Vermont Butter & Cheese with Bob
Reese, a former marketing director of the Vermont
Department of Agriculture. Soon after, people who
had never experienced the taste of fresh chèvre
were immediately awed by her handiwork.
“Quality originates at the source,” says Allison,
and the source of her goat’s milk cheeses is a herd
of intelligent, gentle dairy goats that are never
tethered but are free to forage for hay, brush, and
pasture plants around the farm. Additional milk
is supplied by local farms, where the average herd
size is 150 goats and whose farming method aligns
as a pioneer in the industry, an early proponent of the artisanal process, and an advocate of sustainable,
responsible farming and organic production, allison hooper of Vermont butter & cheese is what one might call
america’s founding mother of artisanal cheesemaking.
with Vermont Butter & Cheese’s philosophy: A
healthy herd, low stress, and good hygiene are an
invaluable part of producing high-quality milk.
Along with both fresh and aged varieties of goat’s
milk cheeses, Allison and Bob use cow’s milk to
make crème fraîche, fromage blanc, mascarpone,
and quark. All are fashioned in the same spirit of
artisanal production in which hands and nature
take the place of machines. For their crème fraîche,
fresh cream is set aside after milking to let the
lactic bacteria take over, enriching and thickening
it to delicious results. Their cultured butter is one
of the finest in the country, with true cream flavor
and only the lightest touch of salt. It would easily
hold its own against the best of European butters.
Allison Hooper’s and Bob Reese’s dedication to
forming their cheese and butter from the grass up,
as well as their commitment to hands-on farming
practices, makes them true artisans.
www.butterandcheese.net
Happy Goats Make Great Cheese
while he loves many of the products from Vermont butter & cheese, terrance brennan’s current favorite is bonne bouche,
an aged, ash-ripened cheese with lemony flavors. “Bonne Bouche is a superb example of a great goat cheese in the French style,
perfectly balanced without any chalkiness,” says terrance.
THE CULT WINES
www.vignaioliamerica.comphone 212.686.3095
fax 212.686.3097
Vignaioli Selections Proudly Served at Picholine
Classic cocktails are making a big comeback, largelybecause bartenders – now known as mixologists – havefound delicious new ways to serve up old favorites. Takethe historic Manhattan for instance. In addition to itswidely-debated origin -- some believe it was created for agrand party in New York hosted by descendants of royalty-- its definition is often debated as well. No matter,because it has evolved into an array of full flavored,creative drinks being discovered by a whole new generation.
There is one truth that stands above the fray; the bestingredients make the best cocktails. Full flavored drinksdemand a balanced and complex bourbon – andWoodford Reserve fits the bill. Now the experts maywrite about its “faint aromas of apricot and brown sugar”or its “hints of woody vanilla-tinged spice,” which is allwell and good. But what’s most important is that yousimply enjoy your Manhattan, or your classic cocktail, oryour own unique take on mixology!
Please enjoy Woodford Reserve responsibly.www.woodfordreserve.com
Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight BourbonWhiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery,Versailles, KY © 2008.
Timeless cocktails made modern with Woodford Reserve,gold medal winner of the world’s three most prestigioustasting competitions.
The Woodford Manhattan
2 oz. Woodford Reserve®
1 oz. sweet vermouth1 dash Angostura® bitters1 dash Peychaud’s® bittersSplash of cherry juice
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well.Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a bourbon-infused cherry.
The Woodford Mediterranean ManhattanA drink this flavorful calls for acomplex bourbon - WoodfordReserve.
2 oz. Woodford Reserve®
1 oz. Tuaca® liqueur1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice1/2 oz. simple syrup*
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon.* Simple syrup: boil equal parts water and sugar untilsugar dissolves.
The Woodford French ManhattanWoodford Reserve adds balance to this delicious, refreshingconcoction.
2 oz. Woodford Reserve®
1 oz. Chambord®
Dash of bitters
Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or cherry.
Woodford Reserve: T he Art of Classic Cocktail s
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haute notes From the publisher, haute notes is about the
discovery of all things innovative and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel.Publisher Michael GoldMan
editor-in-chief PaMela Jouan
design director Jana Potashnik BaiRdesign, inc.
Managing editor chRistian kaPPneR
assistant editor stePhane henRion
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HAUTEnotewoRthy
mADe to tAste.com
launching in summer 2008, madetotaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products. imagine shopping in a chef ’s pantry for food products, kitchen tools and accessories, and cookbooks! madetotaste.com also features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and cocktail pairings.
michAel hArlAn turkell is a freelance photographer and free-time chef who used to cook in restaurants and now photographs the inner workings of kitchens, for his award-winning “back of the house” project, documenting an unseen version of the lives of chefs and the restaurant world.
michael has been selected for the upcoming 25 Under 25: Up-and-Coming American Photographers, to be published by powerhouse books in spring 2008. he has received a photo District news photo Annual Award and has had work published in an array of magazines and shown in galleries.
he currently resides in brooklyn, new york. his work can be seen at harlanturk.com and at his photo blog, harlanturk.blogspot.com.
HAUTEPhotoHAUTEMiXoloGy
A wooDforD sunset
3 parts lemon/lime soda 1 part woodford reserve 1/2 part pure cherry juice in a rocks glass, add ice, woodford, cherry juice, and top off with lemon/lime soda. it will look just like a beautiful sunset. enjoy!
HAUTEtaste
cutting eDge
Joel bukiewicz, aspiring novelist turned artisan, handcrafts professional-grade kitchen cutlery that has sliced its way to cult-level status. his showcase knife is the prospect 8, which is close to kitchen-accessory perfection: a knife that cuts smoothly and effortlessly on the cutting board, is agile enough to be a versatile kitchen tool, and offers heft and balance at the bolster as well as a fast tip and lightness in the hand. this knife is just begging you to cook with it!
cutbrooklyn.com
artisanal Fromagerie, bistro & wine bar 2 park Avenue new york, ny 10016 tel 212.725.8585 artisanalbistro.com
Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro and Wine
Bar showcases the formidable creativity
and passion of Chef-Proprietor Terrance
Brennan who adds playful twists to classic
French bistro dishes.
picholine 35 west 64th street new york, ny 10023tel 212.724.8585 picholinenyc.com
The menu at Picholine showcases “the ferocious commitment to quality and the restless inventiveness of its chef-owner, Terrance Brennan,”
stated William Grimes in The New York
Times. Featuring the highest quality seasonal
ingredients, his French-Mediterranean dishes are
original interpretations of classic flavors from France,
Spain and Italy.
artisanal3.indd 1 5/16/08 4:59:06 PM