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FASHION!MAGAZINE!IN!CHINA:!RESEARCH!ON!DEVELOPMENT!AND!ISSUES!OF!WORLD7CLASS!
FASHION!MAGAZINE!FASHION!MAGAZINE!IN!MAINLAND!CHINA!!
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JENNIFER,!ZHAO!DONGCHEN!NETTIE,!ZHANG!NI!ROXANNE,!YU!SHUNA!YVONNE,!HOU!YIFEI!
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A!PROJECT!SUBMITTED!IN!PARTIAL!FULFILLMENT!OF!THE!REQUIREMENTS!FOR!THE!DEGREE!OF!MSOCSC!IN!MEDIA!
MANAGEMENT!!!
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SUPERVISOR:!DR.!DAVID!KO!
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SCHOOL!OF!COMMUNICATION!AND!SCHOOL!OF!BUSINESS!HONG!KONG!BAPTIST!UNIVERSITY!
!HONG!KONG!MAY!2012!
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Acknowledgement
The!authors!wish!to!thank!Dr.!David!Ko!for!his!advice!and!support!in!the!preparation!of!
this!project.!They!are!also!grateful!to!their!parents!for!their!love!in!the!past!one;year.!
We! are! here! thanks! for! the! participation! of! editor! Gloria! Deng! from! ELLE,! Sirine! Shi!
from!Maria!Claire,!Amber!Zhao!from!Harper’s!Bazaar!and!Luke!Yu!from!Cosmopolitan!to!
receive!the!interview!and!share!their!opinion!with!us.! !
All!the!field!researches!described!in!this!project!were!our!own!original!work!and!were!
carried!out!by!ourselves!under!the!supervision!of!Dr.!Ko.!
Students’! Names:! Jennifer,! Zhao! Dongchen! !! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Nettie,! Zhang! Ni! ! ! ! !! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Roxanne,! Yu! Shuna! ! !! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Yvonne,! Hou! Yifei! ! !
Signatures:!_________________!_________________!_________________!_________________!
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MSoSc.! in! Media! Management! !School!of!Communication! !
Hong!Kong!Baptist!University!!!
Date:!____________________________!
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Executive)Summary)
This! project! provides! an! analysis! and! evaluation! of! the! current! performance! and!
existing!problems!of!world:class!fashion!magazines!in!Chinese!mainland!market.!Aiming!
at! examining! why! the! sales! volume,! market! share! and! the! readership! of! these!
world:class!fashion!magazines!have!gradually!declined!since!the!peak!of!them!in!early!
2000s!and!to!recommend!ways!for!their!future!development.! !
The! research! draws! attention! to! the! fact! that! before! 2005,! Chinese! fashion!magazine!
market!show!a!competition!pattern!of!the!three!pillars!of!ELLE,!Cosmopolitan!and!Rayli.!
Over! the! next! two! years,! although! world:class! fashion! magazines! still! maintain! the!
advanced!status!in!this!industry,!the!market!share!and!readership!in!the!whole!market!
decreased!gradually.!Further!investigations!of!questionnaire!and!deep!interview!reveal!
that!Japanese!fashion!magazines!enjoyed!great!favor!of!customers!due!to!their!friendly!
and! practically! Asian:style.! Moreover,! in! terms! of! the! positioning! and! targeting! of!
world:class!fashion!magazines,!there!are!dramatic!differences!between!their!expect!and!
the!reality.! !
Finally,!the!report!concludes!that!the!major!problems!of!world:class!fashion!magazines!
are,! vague! positioning,! lack! of! practical,! homogenization! of! content! and! low! brand!
loyalty.!In!order!to!increase!the!market!share!and!deepen!the!localized!performance!of!
world:class!fashion!magazines,!this!report!offered!several!suggestions.! !
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It!is!recommended:!
! World:class! fashion! magazines! should! firstly! focus! on! contents! building! and!
increase!the!attraction!of!the!content!itself.!
(Similar!opinion!held!by!Lauren!R.!Bailey!and!Yoo:Kyoung!Seock,!2010)!
! Income!structure!of!circulation!and!advertising!revenue!could!be!improved.!
(Similar!opinion!held!by!Ha,!Louisa!and!Litman,!Barry!R,!1997)!
! Though! Japanese:Korean! fashion!magazines!are!more!popular! in!Chinese!market,!
world:class!fashion!magazines!should!maintain!their!own!characteristics.!
(Similar!opinion!held!by!Li,!Dong:Xin;!Lee,!Yong:Ki!and!Griffin,!Mitch,!2011)!
! The!use!of!social!media!and!online!version!offers!opportunities.! ! !
(Similar!opinion!held!by!Laughlin,!John!D!and!MacDonald,!Jason!B,!2010)!
! New!entrants!should!pay!more!attention!on!market!positioning!and!localization.! !
(Similar!opinion!held!by!Li,!Dong:Xin;!Lee,!Yong:Ki!and!Griffin,!Mitch,!2011)!
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The! report! also! provides! a! special! and! interesting! finding! of! the! subtle! interplay!
between!world:class! fashion!magazines!and! luxury!brands,!which!one!behaved!as! the!
main!supporter!and!the!other!act!as!the!promotion!platform.! !
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! vi!
Table)of)Content)
Part)1)Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………….1)1. Project!Objectives.!………………………………………………………………………………………….1!2. Structure!of!Paper……………………………………………………………………………………….…..1!3. Literature!Review……………………………………………………………………………………….…..2!4. Methodology……………………………………………………………………………………...……….…..6!
Part)2)Fashion)Magazine)Industry)in)Mainland)China………………………………………..….7)
1. Introduction!of!Fashion!Magazine..…………………………………………………………….…….7!2. Environmental!Analysis..…………………………….…….……………………………………….…….9!3. Industry!Analysis..…………………………….…….…………………………………………………….12!
Part)3)WorldFclass)Fashion)Magazine)in)Mainland)China………………………………...…18)
1. Introduction.…………………………….…….…………………………………………………………….18!2. Current!Performance……………….…….…………………………………………………………..….21!3. Marketing!Strategy….……………….…….…………………………………………………………..….26!4. SWOT!Analysis………………………….…….…………………………………………………………….31!5. Existing!Problem………………………….…….……………………………...………………………….36!
Part)4)Questionnaire)Analysis…………….…….……………………………...…………………..…….39)
1. Rationale!of!Questionnaire…………….…….…………………………...…………………………...39!2. Questionnaire!Sample…………….…….…………………………...…………………………………..41!3. Result!Analysis…………….…….…………………………...………………………………………...…..42!4. Conclusion…………….…….…………………………...……………………………………………....…..62!
Part)5)Interview)Analysis…………….…….……………………………...…………………….…..….….65)
1. Rationale!of!Interview………….…….…………………………...………………………….…..….….65!2. Brief!Introduction!of!Interviewees…………………………...………………………….….….….65!3. Answers!Analysis………….…….…………………………...…………………………..…….…..….….67!4. Comparison!with!Questionnaire!Result……………...…………………………..…….….….….79!5. Possible!Reasons!of!Existing!Problem……………...………………………….....…….….….….81!
Part)6)Conclusion…………….…….……………………………...…………………….…..….……………...84)
1. Special!Findings…….…….……………………………...…………………….…..….…………………...84!2. Conclusion…….…….……………………………...…………………….…..….………………….............85!3. Suggestion!for!Future!Operation………...…………………….…..….…………………...............86!4. Recommendations!of!Future!Entrants………...…………………….…..….……………...........88!5. Limitation………...…………………….…..….…………………............................................................89!
!Reference…………….…….……………………………………………………...…………………….…..….….90)Appendix…………….…….……………………………...……………………………………………..…..….….94)
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)
List)of)Figure)and)Tables)
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Table!1!Comparisons!among!World:Class!Fashion!Magazines…………………………………....19!
Table!2!Sales!ranking!of!fashion!magazines!in!the!second!half!of!2011!in!Beijing………...22!
Table!3!Sales!ranking!of!fashion!magazines!in!the!second!half!of!2011!in!Shanghai……..23!
Table!4!Sales!ranking!of!fashion!magazines!in!the!second!half!of!2011!in!Guangzhou.…23!
Table!5!Kinds!of!advertising!of!luxury!goods!in!world:class!fashion!magazines!……...…..25!
Table!6The!price!of!world:class!fashion!magazines!in!Mainland!China………………….........27!
Table!7!SWOT!Analysis!of!world:class!fashion!magazines………………………………….............31!
Table!8!Gender!of!Respondents………………………………….................................................................42!
Table!9!Age!of!Respondents………………………………….........................................................................42!
Table!10!Areas!of!Respondents…………………………………..................................................................43!
Table!11!Education!Levels!of!Respondents…………………………………..........................................43!
Table!12!Occupations!of!Respondents…………………………………....................................................44!
Table!13!Purchase!Habit!of!Respondents…………………………………..............................................44!
Table!14!One:way!ANOVA…………………………………............................................................................46!
Table!15!Gender’s!Influence!on!Purchase!Behavior…………………………………..........................46!
Table!16!Relationship!between!Age!and!Purchase!Behavior…………………………………........46!
Table!17!One:way!ANOVA…………………………………............................................................................47!
Table!18!Areas’!Influence!on!Purchase!Behavior…………………………………...............................47!
Table!19!Relationship!between!Education!level!and!Purchase!Behavior……………………..48!
Table!20!One:way!ANOVA…………………………………............................................................................48!
Table!21!Relationship!between!Monthly!Income!and!Purchase!Behavior……………………49!
Table!22!Fashion!Magazine!Classifications…………………………………...........................................54!
Table!23!Fashion!Magazine!Number…………………………………........................................................55!
Table!24!Product!Involvement!of!World:class!Fashion!Magazine……………………………….56!
Table!25!Brand!Recognition!of!World:class!Fashion!Magazine!…………………………………..60!
Table!26!Brand!Recognition!of!Japanese:Korean!Fahion!Magazine……………………………..60!
Table!27!Brand!Recognition!of!Domestic!Fashion!Magazine…………………………………........61!
Table!28!Business!Level!Strategy!of!World:class!Fashion!Magazines!in!China……………..79!
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Picture!1The!cover!of!the!first!issue!of!ELLE’s!semimonthly………………………………………26!
Picture!2!The!first!cover!of!the!January!pairs!issue!of!Cosmopolitan…………………………..27!
Picture!3!Posters!for! ! Bazaar!Charity!Night!&!2010!VOGUE!Fashion!Night!Out………….31! !
Picture!4!Covers!of!Elle!and!Marie!Claire…………………………………………………………………..71!
Picture!5!Covers!of!Harper's!Bazaar!and!Cosmopolitan…..…………………………………………71!
Picture!6!Covers!of!Vogue!China……………………………………………………………………………….72!
Picture!7!E:Fashion!Magazine…………………………………………………………………………………..75!
Picture!8!Elle!Semimonthly!Issue……………………………………………………………………………...78!
Picture!9!Double!Issue!of!Cosmopolitan!and!Harper's!Bazaar…………………………………….79!
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Figure!1!2009:2010!Sales!Volume!of!Woman!Magazine!in!China……………………………….15!
Figure!2!Market!Share!of!Fashion!Magazine!in!First!Half!Year!of!2011……………………….16!
Figure!3!Amount!of!Luxury!Goods!Advertising! in! the!World:class! fashion!Magazine! in! ! ! !
the!1st!Half!of!2011……………………………………………………………………...……………25!
Figure!4!Where!You!Get!Fashion!Information!…………………………………………………………...46!
Figure!5!Purchase!Frequency!of!Respondents…………………………………………………………...51!
Figure!6!Page!Number!Preference…………………………………………………………………………….51!
Figure!7!Cover!Model!Preference……………………………………………………………………………...52!
Figure!8!Artistic!Design!Preference…………………………………………………………………………..53!
Figure!9!Content!Preference……………………………………………………………………………………..54!
Figure!10!Fashion!Magazine!Preference……………………………………………………………………55!
Figure!11!Comparison!of!Fashion!Magazines'!Product!Involvement…………………………...59!
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1!
Part%1%Introduction%
1. Project%Objectives%
1988,!the!first!world1class!fashion!magazine!entered!China!market!and!also!became!the!
first! fashion!magazine! in! China.! From! then,! several! famous! fashion!magazine! opened!
Chinese! market! successively.! However,! with! the! prosperous! of! Chinese! fashion!
magazine!industry,!these!world1class!fashion!magazines!have!entered!an!embarrassing!
situation!–!have! long!history! and!high! reputation,! but! face!decreasing! circulation!and!
readership.!
This!project!tries!to!analysis!current!situation!of!fashion!magazine!industry!in!Mainland!
China!and!investigating!the!business!strategy!approach!of!fashion!magazine!industry!to!
find! the! reason!of! these!problems!and!obtain! the!experience!of!operating!world1class!
fashion!magazine!in!Mainland!China,!meanwhile,!to!help!these!magazines!find!a!suitable!
way!for!future!development.!
The! project! will! answer! the! questions! raised! in! the! field! study! through! taking! the! 5!
existing!world1class!fashion!magazines!in!Mainland!China!market!as!examples,!to!their!
business! strategy! approach! in!China!market,! to! obtain! the! reason!of! current!problem!
and!obtain!the!experience;!and!to!realize!Chinese!consumer!insight,!analysis!will!also!be!
done!through!researching!and!analyzing!their!reading!preference!and!habit.!
2. Structure%of%Paper%
The! report! will! be! divided! into! six! parts.! Part! 1! is! the! introduction! of! the! report,!
including!project!objectives,!structure!of!paper,!literature!review!and!methodology.!
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2!
Part! 2! is! a! macro! view! of! fashion! magazine! industry! in! Mainland! China.! An!
environmental!analysis,!together!with!an!industry!analysis!will!be!provided!within!the!
chapter.!
Part!3!will!provide!a!specific!analysis! focused!on! five!mainstream!world1class! fashion!
magazines’!performance!in!Mainland!China,!including!the!SWOT!analysis,!current!status!
analysis,!and!also!their!existing!problems.!
The!questionnaire!will!be!analysis!in!Part!4!while!the!result!of!interviews!is!in!Part!5.!By!
sending!questionnaire! to!hundreds!of!people!and! interviewing! the!editors! from! these!
magazines,! we! could! have! an! in1depth! understanding! about! the! present! situation! of!
fashion!magazine! industry.! After! identify! problems! and! shortcomings,! we! will! try! to!
figure!out!the!possible!reasons!of!existing!problems.!
Finally,!in!Part!6,!conclusion!will!be!made!and!suggestions!for!future!operation!will!be!
given.!We!will!also!suggest!several!recommendations!for!the!future!entrants.!
3. Literature%Review%
In!order! to!have!a!better!understanding!about!Chinese! fashion!magazine! industry,!we!
did!a!lot!researches!and!find!out!some!facts.! !
A. Entry(Process(of(Foreign(Magazines(
Four!major!magazine! groups!publish!magazines! in!China:! two! from! the!United! States!
1Hearst! and! Conde’!Nast1! and! two! from!France1Hachette! Filipacchi!Medias! and!Marie!
Claire.!Apart!from!these!Western!giants,!Asian!publishing!companies!are!endeavoring!to!
popularize! their!media! products! overseas.!Wang!Hanfang! (2005)! stated! that! the! first!
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generation! of! publications! that! entered! the! Chinese!market! was!Western!magazines,!
and! many! used! Beijing! as! their! marketing! base.! The! second! generation! was! Asian!
magazines! from! Japan,! South!Korea,! and!Singapore,!with! Shanghai! as! their!marketing!
base! and! Japan! as! the! leading! and!most! popular! Asian! country! to! enter! the! Chinese!
magazine! market.! Second,! the! opening! up! of! the! market! to! various! transnational!
products!also!led!to!a!need!for!greater!advertising!of!products!and!services.!Therefore,!
the!rapid!expansion!of!international!women’s!magazines!in!Asia!is!also!driven!by!global!
brands! in! need! of! advertising! vehicles! in! markets! with! high! economic! growth! rates!
(International!Herald!Tribune,!2004).!
B. Entry(Mode(Into(A(Foreign(Market(
Usually!there!are!five!modes!to!enter!a!foreign!market!–!exporting,!licensing,!franchising,!
joint!venture!and!wholly!owned!subsidiary.! !
To!enter!Chinese!magazine!market,!there!are!two!ways!in!which!foreign!publishers!can!
choose! from:! translated! the! original! magazine! into! Chinese! and! start! copyright!
cooperation.!The!former!one!is!to!translate!the!content!with!a!little!localized!production.!
In!a!translated!version!magazine,!more!than!80%!of!the!content!and!pictures!are!taken!
directly! from! the! western! edition! especially! the! international! edition.! Majority!
western1style! magazines! now! published! in! China! are! using! the! second! type! of!
cooperation.!Magazines!may!use!some!content!and!pictures,!sometimes!within!a!topic,!
from!the!international!version!into!Chinese!version!and!add!a!lot!local!produced!topics!
and!contents.!
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According! to! the! laws! made! by! the! GAPP! (General! Administration! of! Press! and!
Publication),!the!magazines!should!obey!the!following!principles:!
! The!percentage!of!editorial!content!that!is!directly!translated!from!the!original!
version!should!be!limited!to!50%!(Wen!&!Fang,!2003).!
! Women’s! magazines! published! through! copyright! cooperation! should! use!
Chinese!only!(Wen!&!Fang,!2003).!
! The! global! titles! cannot! be! used! solely! on! the! front! cover,! but! have! to! be!
accompanied! by! the! Chinese! title! that! signifies! the! local! brand! of! the!
international!women’s!magazine!(GAPP,!2000).!
! The!global!title!should!be!smaller!than!the!Chinese!one!(GAPP,!2000).!
C. Porter’s(Five(Forces(Model(
!Figure!1!Porter's!Five!Force!Model!
In! order! to! have! a! detailed! analysis! about! the! western1style! magazines’! current!
situation!in!Chinese!magazine!industry,!we!should!focus!on!the!industry!environment.!
The!method!that!we!will!use!is!Porter’s!Five!Forces!Model!
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In!1980,!Michel!E.!Porter!of!the!Harvard!Business!School!published!his!understanding!of!
a!competitive!strategy!based!on!the!now!famous!Five!Forces!Model,! from!then!on,!the!
Five!Forces!Model!has!used!as!an!evaluation!tool!to!analysis!the!related!environment.!It!
has!also!helps!to!support!decision!making!in!strategic!choices.! !
Briefly,! Porter’s! model! tries! to! consider! about! the! environment! and! the! strategic!
positioning!of!the!company!in!terms!of!stability!of!different!forces!that!the!firm!has!to!
contend!with.!Basically,!these!forces!are:!the!bargaining!powers!of!buyers!and!suppliers,!
the!threat!of!new!entrants,! the!threat!of!substitutes,!and!rivalry!between!competitors.!
These! five! give! the! complete! model! of! the! factors! that! determine! the! competitive!
strategy!of!the!firm!which!we!will!use!in!the!following!analysis.! !
Containing! a! lot! of! commercial! advertising,! especially! the! western! luxury! brands,!
fashion!magazines!are!considered!to!be!an!ideal!media!for!market!developing!and!other!
promotion!actions.!Advertising!stats!in!fashion!magazines!should!be!careful!considered,!
it!even!related!to!some!multi1cultural!communication!issues.!
The! readers’! response! and! attitude! toward! the! advertisement! is! a! measure! of!
advertising!effectiveness.!Readers!who!grow!up!in!a!particular!culture!are!used!to!their!
own! culture! value! system,! beliefs,! and! perception! processes.! They! understand! and!
receive!the!advertising!messages!in!a!manner!that!is!compatible!to!their!cultural!values!
and! standards.! That! is! to! say,! the! social! values! and! cultural! characteristics! of! target!
readers!may!limit!the!choice!of!advertising!themes!used!in!one!particular!culture!(Yong,!
Zhang! and! Neelankavil,! 1996).! Oh’s! (1976),! Li’s! (1978)! and! Hofstede’s! (1980)!
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cross1cultural!value!studies!research!all!show!that!China!is!considered!to!be!a!country!
with! a! collectivistic! culture! (! “Multinational! Advertising! Campaigns! as! Intercultural!
Communication:!Successes!and!Blunders!in!Mainland!China”).!Advertising,!as!a!form!of!
social!communication,!is!particularly!reflective,!and!indicative!of!culture!and!its!norms!
(Cheng,!1994).!Hence!ads!in!Asia!are!very!different!from!western!advertising!execution!
(Hong,!Muderrisoglu!and!Zinkhan,1987).%
4. Methodology%
Since! the! project! is! aiming! at! analysis! the! current! situation! of! western1style! fashion!
magazines! in! China! and! discover! their! problems,! exploratory! research! will! be! used.!
Then,! four! research! approaches1primary! research,! secondary! research,! quantitative!
research!and!qualitative!research!will!be!used.!The!use!of!the!four!research!approaches!
will! be! focused! in! varying! degrees! according! to! research! objects! and! research! needs.!
The!project!will!focus!on!the!required!information!through!methodology!of!the!project,!
and!then!expands!research!in!the!form!of!pointing!out!core!topic,!discussing,!analyzing!
and!coming!to!conclusion.%
% %
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Part%2%Fashion%Magazine%Industry%in%Mainland%China%
1. Introduction%of%Fashion%Magazine% %
A. A(brief(history(
Since!1988�Elle,!a!fashion!magazine!from!France,!entered!the!Chinese!magazine!market!
and! acquired! a! Chinese! title,! Shi! Jie! Shi! Zhuang! Zhi! Yuan! (Elle! China).! The! beautiful!
pictures!and! interesting! text!made$Elle! fame!and!came!out!on! top.! It!became! the! first!
fashion!magazine!in!Mainland!China!and!opened!the!development!of!Mainland!Chinese!
fashion!magazine!industry.!
1993,! a! fashion! magazine! named! Fashion! was! founded;! in! 1998,! it! cooperated! with!
Hearst! 1! the! largest! U.S.! publishing! group,! published! Cosmopolitan.! This! is! a! perfect!
combination! of! advanced! publishing! concept! joint! with! localization! and!
internationalization.! In! 1995,! with! the! popularity! of! Japanese! fashion,! China! Light!
Industry!Press!collaborated!with!Japanese!press!1!Friends!of!Housewives!to!launch!the!
Rayli,! different! from$ the! luxury! of! Elle$ and$ Cosmopolitan! luxury,! it! was! edited! in! a!
practical! way.! Then! the! popularity! of! Rayli! proved! that! the! positioning! was! very!
successful.!Meanwhile,! the!domestic! fashion!magazine!had!developed.!Many!domestic!
fashion! magazines! founded! and! operated! independently! such! as! Shanghai$ Style! and!
Mien.!During!the!period!from!1988!to!2004,!the!fashion!magazine!industry!in!Mainland!
China!was!initially!formed!and!developed!to!flourish.!
B. Identification( (
In! this! project,! the! fashion! magazine! refers! to! the! periodical! issue! magazine! which!
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contains! fashion1related! information! with! various! photographs.! It! has! a! clear!
distinguish!between!women! fashion!magazine!and!men! fashion!magazine!by! focusing!
on!different!topic!that!the!readers!pay!attention!to.!
On!the!contrary,! there! is!still!another!kind!of!“fashion!magazines”!such!as!MILK,!1626!
and! YOHO! which! are! also! popular! among! youth! without! gender! limitation.! These!
magazines! are! focused!on! trending! lifestyle! and! instead!of! global! luxury!brands,! they!
are! often! introducing! local! produced! tide! brand! and! cutting! edge! IT! inventions.! The!
fashion! icon! in!their!eyes! is!not!only!entertainment!celebrities!but!also!younger!trend!
leaders!who!are! living! in!a!personalized!style.!Generally,!we!name!these!magazines!as!
consumer! magazines,! or! say,! trend! magazines.! Therefore,! to! distinguish! and! mainly!
focus!on!fashion!magazine,!the!project!will!exclude!this!kind!of!magazine.!
C. Category( (
Nowadays,! the! number! of! fashion! magazine! issued! is! about! 100! in! Mainland! China!
included!some!regional!issue1fashion!magazine.!In!this!project,!to!make!the!analysis!and!
comparison!more!clearly,!we!divided!them!into!three!categories!based!on!their!features.!
a. WorldGclass%fashion%magazine%
Usually,! refer! to! the! western1origin! fashion! and! lifestyle! magazines,! such! as! VOGUE,!
BRAZAAR,! Cosmopolitan,! ELLE! and! Marie$ Claire.! Advocating! western! fashion! trends!
which!selling!prices!are!all! above!20RMB!and! their! target! reader!are!medium1to1high!
income!bourgeoisie.!
!
!
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9!
b. JapaneseGKorean%fashion%magazine%
They!are!defined!as!guiding!Asian!style!of! fashion!which! is!more! suitable! for! the! tiny!
Chinese!woman.!The!fashion!trend!and!lifestyle!they!propose!are!much!easier!to!acquire!
young!lady’s!need!of!being!fashionable!with!lower!budget.!Their!wearing!style!is!widely!
welcomed!by!girls!especially!from!small!cities.!
c. Domestic%fashion%magazine%
The!domestic! fashion!magazines!are! local1original!magazines!selling! in!very! low!price!
and! their! target! readers!are!also! lower! income!women!who! interested! in! fashion!and!
discount! information.!Different! from!former!two,! these!magazines!are!often!published!
every! week! or! two.! And! they! may! contain! more! entertainment! gossips! and! other!
regional!culture!content.! ! !
2. Environmental%Analysis% %
An!environmental!analysis!is!conducted!by!using!PEST!analysis!to!realize!the!influence!
of! Mainland! China! publishing! industry! environment! will! bring! to! these!
western1originated! fashion! magazines! through! political,! economic,! social! and!
technology.!
A. Political(Factors( (
Political! factors! include! political! system,! situation,! attitude! of! government! and! legal!
environment.!It!is!a!fact!that!as!a!socialist!country,!China!has!more!control!on!press!and!
publications.! Fashion! and! lifestyle! magazines! can! hardly! have! impact! and! negative!
influence! for! country’s! political! system! and! stable.! Basically,! fashion! and! lifestyle!
!
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10!
magazine!is!easily!accepted!by!government.!
The!legal!environment!could!be!an!important!factor.!Different!countries!have!different!
policies! for! importing! a!magazine.! In!most! countries! which! have! strong! faith! of! free!
press,! there! is! not! too!much! barriers! for! importing! a! foreign!magazine.! However,! in!
some! conservative! countries,! importing! a! foreign! is! difficult.! For! example,! Chinese!
government! has! strict! censorship! for! all! publications! especially! for! magazines!
introduced.!In!mainland!China,!There!are!four!departments!have!right!to!launch!China!
Standard!Serial!Numbering!(CSSN)!they!are!Press!and!publications!administration,!State!
Scientific!and!Technological!Commission,!Office!of!overseas!Chinese!affairs!and!General!
Politics!Department!of!PLA.!Every! introduced!magazine!needs!a!CSSN!from!these! four!
departments! but! the! number! basically! is! not! provided! for! them.! The! only! way! is!
cooperating!with!a!domestic!press!and!using!their!CSSN!to!publish!introduced!magazine.!
Besides,!fee!for!chartering!the!CSSN!from!domestic!press!is!very!high.! !
B. Economic(Factors(
Economic! factors! include! three! elements! 1! people’s! economic! state,! consumption!
concept,!and!economic!union.!
People’s! economic! state! can! be! reflected! in! many! sides,! such! as! income! per! capita,!
employment! status.! Magazines! must! make! sure! their! target! markets! have! enough!
purchasing! power! to! buy! magazines.! Income! per! capita! and! employment! status! can!
objectively! show! local! people’s! income! level.! With! rapid! development! of! economy,!
Mainland! Chinese! desire! a! higher! life! standard.! They! need! a! guide! to! a!more! luxury!
!
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11!
lifestyle,!which!make!the!market!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!a!profitable!one.! !
C. Social(Factors(
a. Consumption%concept%
Consumption! concept! is! based! on! people’s! income! level.! When! Chinese! people! have!
better! life! they! prefer! to! enrich! their! material! life.! Women! have! an! inherent! love! of!
beauty.! The! social! trend! will! make! these! world1class! fashion! magazines! reaching!
audience!easily.!
b. Social%Values!
Social!value!is!related!to!audience’s!opinion!and!attitude!towards!products.!Paris,!Milan,!
London! and! New! York! are! regarded! as! world! Fashion! center;! all! these! world1class!
magazines!we!talk!about!are!based!on!European!and!American!fashion!trend.!Besides,!
attitude!towards!foreign!product!in!China!is!hail1fellow.!Fashion!opinion!from!western!
countries!is!authoritative!in!most!Chinese’s!mind.! !
c. Culture%&%Religion%
Different! regions! have! different! culture! and! religions.! Western1originated! magazines!
should! respect! and! follow! Chinese! local! traditions! and! taboo! to! avoid! culture! and!
religion!conflict.!
D. Technologic(Factors(
Since!Internet!opened!for!public!in!1988,!it!had!a!great!development!and!becomes!more!
and!more! important! for! people’s! life.! It! provides! a! nice! platform! to! do! business! and!
share! information.! Also,! readers’! reading! habit! is! changing! fast.! Electronic! reading!
!
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12!
depending!on! its! convenience!becomes!more!and!more!popular.! Launching!electronic!
version! is! a! realistic! issue! of! great! urgency.! World1class! fashion! magazines! should!
follow!this!new!trend!to!launch!electronic!version!and!satisfy!all!readers’!demands.! !
New! technology! also! provides! a! nice! platform! to! improve! the! customer! relationship!
management.!More!and!more!companies!set!up! their!official! fan!page!on!Facebook!or!
create!official!micro1blog!account.!Fans!or!readers!can!directly!communicate!with!staff.!
Even,! it!could!be!an!effective!solution!of!crisis!public!relation.!Magazines!can! launch!a!
statement!or!notification!on!micro1blog!when!they!fall!in!crisis!PR.%
3. Industry%Analysis%
Michael! Porter’s! 5! forces! model! that! consists! of! 5! categories! is! used! to! analysis! the!
world1class! fashion! magazines! in! China.! The! degree! of! these! threats! determines! the!
attractiveness! of! the! market,! especially! profit! margins.! To! find! a! position! of! these!
magazines!in!publishing!industry!can!defend!themselves!against!these!forces!to!achieve!
a!competitive!advantage.!
A. Threat(of(New(Entrants(
With!female!purchasing!power!gets!stronger! in!the!society,! the!female!market! is!a!big!
cake! and! becomes!more! and!more! attractive.! So! the! profit! of! fashion!media! industry!
also!attracts!many!firms!like!many!other!female!businesses.! !
Magazine!market!has! fairly! low!barriers! to!entry! in!most!countries,!since!government!
policies!are!usually!lax.!Although!in!socialist!country!like!China,!the!lax!towards!fashion!
magazine!is!relatively!tolerant.!In!a!word,!the!market!profit!cannot!be!guaranteed!by!the!
!
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13!
government!policy.! !
But! running!a!magazine! is!not! just! to! rent! an!office! and!hire! some!editors.!Especially!
magazines!positioned!themselves!as!high1end,!need!capital!support,!need!to!build!brand,!
need!to!cultivate!trained!editors,! in!order!to!keep! loyal!readership.! In!this!part,! it!will!
lower!the!threat.! !
What’s!more,!channel!access! is!another! factor!to!keep!the!new!competitors!away.!The!
new! entrant! would! have! to! be! able! to! secure! the! distribution! channel! to! ensure! the!
exposure!to!the!customers!otherwise!it!would!not!be!able!to!make!a!significant!impact!
on!the!overall!industry.!This!element!also!reduces!the!new!entrants’!threats.! !
To!sum!up,!it’s!moderate!to!low.!
B. Bargaining(Power(of(Buyers(
When!it!comes!to!the!second!force,!we!think!it’s!moderate!to!high.!
At! First,! through! contrast! of! headlines! among! different! countries’! fashion!magazines!
among!Vogue,!Elle!and!Bazaar.!The!contents!are!no!more!than!Fashion,!Beauty,!Life!and!
Culture;!even! through!they’re!written! in!diverse!styles.!Thus,! the!bargaining!power!of!
buyers!is!moderate.!
However,!some!other!factors!may!higher!the!power.!The!buyers!have!a!great!influence!
on! the! contents! provided! by! the!magazines.! The! publication! houses! have! to! provide!
information! that! is! sought! after! by! the! public! and! information! that! is! relevant,!
interesting! to! the! targeted!audiences!otherwise! they!would! lose! sales! to! its! rivals.!No!
matter!your!main!profit!is!from!the!sales!or!the!advertising,!circulation!is!the!key.!
!
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14!
Furthermore,! buyers’! switching! cost! is! quite! low.! According! to! the! figures,! you! could!
find!that!even!a!year’s!cost!is!limited.!So!the!bargaining!power!gets!higher!again.!
C. Bargaining(Power(of(Suppliers(
The!suppliers! for! the!magazine! industry!would!be!divided! into! two!parts,!one!are! the!
firms! providing! papers,! inks,! and! any! other! material! that! would! be! used! in! the!
production! of! the!magazine,! the! other! are! the! content! producers,! including! the! staffs!
such!as!editor,!photographer,!model,!designer,!etc.! !
Due! to! fashion! magazines’! daily! expense! on! suppliers! are! the! most,! it! means! the!
suppliers! are! important! to!buyer’s!business.!But!with! the!business! scale! growing,! the!
magazines!will!pay!less!on!them.!It!comes!out!a!fact!that!the!fashion!magazine!industry!
also!has!bargaining!power!towards!its!suppliers!at!the!same!time.!And!offset!printing!is!
no!longer!a!secret.!Many!printing!houses!can!offer!this!service.!Coated!papers!are!cheap!
and!widely!used.!Free!interns!are!applying!to!become!a!fashion!editor!continuously.!
In!addition!switching!costs!between!suppliers!is!low!due!to!the!high!number!of!them.!In!
general!situation,!the!publication!house!will!choose!a!fixed!partner.!Once!the!magazine!
has!a!huge!circulation!like!newspaper,!they!may!print!they!if!they’re!willing!to!sacrifice!
the! flexibility! for! lower! budget,! that! is! to! say,! the!magazine! industry! pose! a! credible!
threat!of!backward!integration.!So!the!bargaining!power!of!supplier!is!relatively!low.!
D. Threat(of(Substitute(Products(
The!threat!of!substitute!products!is!badly!high.!The!high1end!fashion!magazine!industry!
provides!information!on!women’s!fashion,!entertainment!and!gossips.!The!information!
!
!!
15!
can!be!distributed!through!a!number!of!mediums!such!as!website,!blog,!newspaper,!TV,!
radio!and!other!printed!advertisements.!Every!type!of!medium!has!its!own!advantages.!
Whether!they!will!beat!magazine!is!according!to!different!audiences’!reading!habits.!In!
conclusion,!the!threat!is!high,!but!they!have!a!possibility!to!co1exist.!
E. Competitive(Rivalry(
Half! of! the! top! 10! world1class! fashion!magazines! have! published! in!Mainland! China:!
VOGUE,!Harper's$Bazaar,! Cosmopolitan,!ELLE! and!Marie!Claire.!Rivals! gather! together!
and! attempt! to! share! this! giant! cake.! These! icon! magazines! have! aggravate! market!
competes! and,! meanwhile,! have! occupied! the! vast! majority! of! the! market! share! in!
advertising!and!publishing!industry.!
The!bar!graph!has!shown! the!overall! trend!of!China! fashion!publishing! industry! from!
2009! to! June!of!2011.!After! June!2010,!amount!of! circulation!had!risen!slightly! in! the!
first!half!year!of!2011.!
!Figure!2!200912010!Sales!Volume!of!Woman!Magazine!in!China!
When!looking!into!the!competitive!landscape,!the!market!share!of!VOGUE!was!only!8%.!
0 50
100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500
2009-2011 Sales Volume of Women Magazine in China (Unit: 10,000)�
!
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16!
Other!global!competitors!such!as!Harper's$Bazaar,!Cosmopolitan,!ELLE!and!Marie!Claire!
also! have! to!meet! the! terrible! result! between! 5%! and! 8%.! It! is! fact! that! in!Mainland!
China,!the!most!popular!fashion!magazines!are!Rayli!and!VIVI.!They!have!shared!nearly!
65%!of!the!total!circulation.!
!Figure!3!Market!Share!of!Fashion!Magazine!in!First!Half!Year!of!2011!
There! are! two! differences! in! general.! Firstly,! the! dressing! style:! In! Japan!magazines,!
models!are!cute!and! tiny!which!stands! for! the!majority! stature!of!Asian!girls!wearing!
dresses!in!bright!colors!and!flower!pattern.!Obviously,!models!in!VOGUE!or!BAZAAR!are!
much! taller! and! slim! that! adapt! to! the!western! taste! of! beauty,! showing! simple! style!
clothes.! Secondly,! target! readers:!VOGUE! and! its! fellows! have! focused! themselves! on!
sophisticated!woman,!professional,!well!educated!and!have!strong!purchasing!power!in!
buying! luxury! goods.!!Meanwhile,!Rayli! and!VIVI! have!position! their! reader! as! a! child!
woman!with!limit!budget!and!unlimited!demand!of!fashion.!
There! might! be! some! successful! factors! to! win! 65%! market! share! in! shadow! of!
competitive!world1class!fashion!magazines.!First,!both!VIVI!and!Rayli!are!representing!
5%!5%! 8%!
8%!
8%!
9%!
13%!
22%!
22%!
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17!
an!Asian!style!of!dress!collocation,!the!same!culture!background!have!determined!they!
can!catch! the!consumer! insight!easily.!Next,! correct!positioning!of! their! target! reader.!
When! an! affordable! fashion!magazine! introduce! some! unaffordable!merchandise! it! is!
more! likely! to! a! nightmare.! Readers! want! to! wear! the! magazine! cloth! within! their!
budget!and!most!of!goods! in!VIVI!and!Rayli!are! fair!priced.!Thirdly,!market! coverage:!
the! second! (or! third)1tier! cities!have! contributed!a! lot! to! the! total! circulation!of!Rayli!
and!VIVI!where!the!world1class!fashion!magazine!has!nearly!ignored.!
%
% %
!
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18!
Part%3%WorldGclass%Fashion%Magazine%in%Mainland%China%
1. Introduction%
In! 1988,! ELLE! entered! the! Chinese! market! and! became! the! real! birth! of! fashion!
magazines!in!China.!The!development!of!a!certain!industry!is!always!inseparable!from!
economic!development!and!social!progress.!During!that!period,!China!was!in!the!reform!
and!open!up!Era,!people's!lives!have!been!preliminary!improved!and!the!concepts!also!
changed.!The!world!“Fashion”!began!to!appear!and!people’s!willingness!to!accept!new!
thing! is! increasing.! Therefore,! the! publication! of! ELLE! marks! an! upgrade! of! China's!
spiritual!and!cultural! level.!Since!ELLE!was!the!only! fashion!magazine! in!China!at!that!
time,! it! maintained! a! thriving! situation! in! the! market.! Due! to! China’s! huge! market!
potential,!half!of!the!top!10!world1class!fashion!magazines!have!published!in!Mainland!
China!within!the!following!151year1time!and!gathered!together!to!share!this!giant!cake.!
These! icon! magazines! have! strong! market! competitiveness! and,! meanwhile,! have!
occupied!the!vast!majority!of!the!market!share!in!advertising!and!publishing!industry.!
The! chart! below! has! shown! the! comparison! among! “The! Powerful! Five”.! Originated!
from! USA,! the! Harper's$ Bazaar! and! Cosmopolitan! came! from! the! family! of! Hearst!
Corporation! while! ELLE! and! Marie$ Claire! have! France! background.! In! 1998,!
Cosmopolitan! entered!China’s!market!with! the! copyright! cooperation!with! the! largest!
U.S!publishing!group!Hearst.!Cosmopolitan$had!a!bold!attempt,!which!initially!set!up!its!
own! publishing! philosophy.! Its! accurate! market! positioning,! and! advanced! media!
management!philosophy!made!Cosmopolitan!gradually!become!a!powerful!media!brand.%
!
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19!
!Table!1!Comparisons!among!World1Class!Fashion!Magazines1!
A. The(Mature(Stage(of(the(Fashion(Magazine(Market(
From! 1998! to! 2000,! make1up,! photography! and! other! related! industries! gradually!
mature.!At!the!same!time,!the!middle!class!increased!in!large!numbers!in!major!cities!of!
China! that!made! the! elegant!pragmatism!gain! large!market! share.!During! this!period,!
words!such!as!petty!bourgeoisie,!white1collar!workers!emerged!and!marked!the!level!of!
consumption! in! China! has! greatly! increased.! Additionally,! it! created! a! demand! and!
opportunities!for!the!sale!of!world1class!magazines.! !
B. Fashion(Magazine(Market(Boom( (
Since! 2000,! fashion! magazines! came! to! the! period! of! dramatic! changes.! In! 2001,!
Harper’s$Bazaar! that!belongs! to! the!Hearst!Corporation$entered!China.!One!year! later,!
Marie$ Claire! entered! the! Chinese! market.! It! is! a! fashion! magazine! with! France!
background.!The!publisher!of!Marie$Claire!is!more!complicated.!Marie$Claire!US!edition!
was!started!by!the!Hearst!Corporation!and!in!UK;!Marie$Claire$ is!part!of!IPC!Media.! In!
China,! the! world's! largest! consumer! magazine! publishers1Hachette! Filipacchello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1! Data!Source:!Hearst!Corporation!Official!Website!
!
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20!
cooperated!with! the!Chinese!sports!newspaper!and!published!Marie$Claire$China.!The!
time!of!the!entrance!of!Vogue!was!quite!late,!in!2005.!This!magazine,!which!is!known!as!
the!“Fashion!Bible”,!was!founded!in!1892!and!had!strong!parent!company1!Condé!Nast.! !
C. Brand(Positioning(and(Target(
The!target!audience!and!brand!positioning!of!theses!five!icon!magazines!varied!slightly.!
To! be! specific,! both! BAZAAR! and! VOGUE! have! positioned! themselves! as! high1end!
reading!material!aiming!at!the!elite!women!and!rich!ladies.!By!paying!close!attention!to!
career!planning! topics!and!sexual! society! culture,! the!Cosmopolitan! and!ELLE! act! as!a!
fashion! consultant! to! ladies! from! their! 20! to! 40! years! old.! Among! all! these! five!
magazines,!Marie$ Claire! is!more! close! to! the! real! life! contained! a! unique! humor! edit!
style.! Different! from! others,! VOGUE! have! also! shoulder! the! responsibility! of! a! talent!
scout!to!define!fashion!trend!and!find!out!new!genius!in!fashion!design!and!photo!shoot.! !
In! the! following! years! and! till! now,! the!world1class!magazines!mentioned! above! had!
developed! into! more! editions,! which! target! at! more! specific! audience! and! triggered!
heavily!competence!with!localized!magazines!and!some!Asia1based!fashion!magazines.!
And,!since!the!Internet!gaining!more!popularity,! increasing!amount!of!people!tends!to!
browse! free! news! via! Internet,! which! impacting! the! traditional! paper! media.! The!
complex!market!provides!both!opportunities!and!threats.!How!to!maintain!the!market!
share!and!brand!loyalty!with!own!existing!strength!and!how!to!avoid!the!weakness!to!
restore! the! loss!of! readership!became!essential!points! for! the! future!developments!of!
theses!world1class!fashion!magazines.!
!
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21!
2. Current%Performance%
In!the!Chinese!market,!the!readership!of!fashion!magazines!continuous!to!grow!and!the!
market! shows! a! good! prospect.! However,! in! terms! of! world1class! magazines,! their!
performance!is!tepid!and!gradually!loses!the!absolute!advantage!in!the!market.!Though!
the!high1end!brand! image! is! successfully!built! in!China,! they!did!not!maintain! the! top!
status!due!to!the!development!of!new!entrants.! !
To!be! specific,!prior! to!2005,! the!overall!market! competitive! landscape!of! the! fashion!
magazine!market!was!basically! the!pattern!of! three!pillars!of!Cosmopolitan,!ELLE! and!
Rayli.! And! after!VOGUE! entered! China,! the! competition! for! distribution! channels! and!
talents!is!aggravated!and!the!competition!of!the!top!four!formed.!However,!according!to!
the!monitoring!data!of!Century!Chinese!International!Media!Consultation!Inc.!(CCMC)!in!
2007,! the! competitive! landscape! of! fashion! magazines! changed! a! lot! because! the!
absolute! advantage! of! world1class! fashion! magazines! are! broken! by! Japanese! and!
Korean! based! fashion!magazine,! such! like!Rayli,$ Mina! and!Vivi.! Currently,! the! overall!
performance!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!is!not!as!satisfactory!as!they!did!in!early!
years!when!they!entered!Chinese!market.! !
A. Market(Competition(Analysis(of(WorldIClass(Fashion(Magazines( ( (
The!market!competition!analysis!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!is!conducted!mainly!
from!three!aspects.!First,!it!is!the!competition!of!publishing!and!distribution!market!and!
readership.!Second,!it!is!a!competition!for!advertising!market.!Third,!world1class!fashion!
magazine’s!new!attempt!of!publishing!to!reply!to!market!competition.! !
!
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22!
a. On%the%average%of%sales%and%market%share%
Taking!the!data!of!the!sales!ranking!of!fashion!magazines!in!the!second!half!of!2011!in!
Beijing,! Shanghai!and!Guangzhou! for! instance,! the!advantages!of!Rayli! are!prominent.!
The!table!below!indicated!the!detailed!data.! !
From!the!sales!ranking!of! fashion!magazines! in! the!second!half!of!2011! in! three!main!
metropolises!in!China,!we!could!find!that!the!average!sales!of!Rayli!far!overweight!that!
of! world1class! fashion! magazines.! In! terms! of! the! average! market! shares,! Rayli!
dramatically!exceeds!the!world1class!fashion!magazines.!Taking!the!data! in!Beijing!for!
instance,! the! market! share! of! Rayli! is! 21.80%,! which! is! more! than! twice! of!
Cosmopolitan’s! market! share! and! four! times! of! Harper’s$ Bazaar’s.! The! table! above!
demonstrated!that!the!Rayli!Group’s!three!fashion!magazines!are!the!market!leader!due!
to!their!total!market!share!exceed!35%!and!kept!stable!sales!in!main!market.!It!is!worth!
to!mention!that!Vivi!owned!high!market!share!in!Shanghai!and!Guangzhou!that!gained!
the!percentage!of!26.32%!and!30.26%!respectively.!
!Table!2!Sales!ranking!of!fashion!magazines!in!the!second!half!of!2011!in!Beijing!
!
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23!
!Table!3!Sales!ranking!of!fashion!magazines!in!the!second!half!of!2011!in!Shanghai!
!Table!4!Sales!ranking!of!fashion!magazines!in!the!second!half!of!2011!in!Guangzhou!
Among! world1class! fashion! magazines,! as! latecomer,! the! performance! of! VOGUE! is!
relatively!stable!that! it!maintains!sales!and!market!share! in!the! first! five! in!2011.!The!
series!magazines!of!Trends!Media!Group!(Cosmopolitan!and!Harper’s$Bazaar)!could!be!
the!strong!competitors!of!Rayli,!however,!any!single!magazines!of!Trends!Media!Group!
could!not!have!the!great!impact!on!the!market!as!Rayli!does.!Being!as!the!first!entrant!in!
Chinese!market!and!the!once!largest1circulation!fashion!magazines,!ELLE!still!occupy!a!
certain!percentage!market!share.!However,!both!ELLE!and$Marie$Claire,!which!also!has!
!
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24!
the!copyright!of!France’s!Hachette!Group,!show!market!declining!and!weak!sales.! !
b. Advertising%revenue%
Advertising! is! the! most! important! income! of! fashion! magazines.! Cosmetics,! luxury!
products,! high1end! consumer! goods,! clothing! and! other! products! are! almost! always!
female!fashion!products;!therefore,!fashion!magazine!receives!great!favor!of!advertisers.!
From! the! competitive! situation! of! the! advertising! market,! the! four! major! groups!
basically!have!formed!a!series!of!magazine,!which!have!different!positioning.!However,!
the!fashion!journal!advertising!competition!mainly!reflects!the!competition!in!the!field!
of! high1end!women's! fashion!magazine:!VOGUE,! Cosmopolitan,!ELLE,!Harper’s$ Bazaar$
and!Marie$Claire.! !
!Figure!4!Amount!of!Luxury!Goods!Advertising!in!the!WorldQclass!fashion!Magazine!in!the!1st!Half!of!2011!
The!figure!above!reflects!that!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!the!important!medium!
for! the! promotion! of! luxury! goods! companies.! Since! consumers! of! luxury! goods! have!
high!incomes,!and!pursue!high!quality!and!fashionable!lives,!which!has!a!high!degree!of!
0.00 50.00 100.00 150.00 200.00 250.00
Mina Vivi
Rayli Young Pioneer Self
Rayli Her Style Marie Claire
Harper's Bazaar Rayli Fashion & Beauty
VOGUE Cosmopolitan
ELLE
The amount of luxury goods advertising in the world-class fashion magazine in the first half of 2011 in China (Units: Million)
!
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25!
coincidence!with!world1class!fashion!magazine’s!target!readers.!Therefore,!world1class!
fashion!magazines! such! as!ELLE,!Cosmopolitan! and$ VOGUE,!which! listed! as! the! top! 3,!
have! become! the!main! platform! of! advertising! of! luxury! products.! In! the! first! half! of!
2011,! the! total! amount!of! advertising!of!ELLE! is! 214.10!million! far! overweigh! that! of!
Rayli$Fashion$&$Beauty.!
!Table!5!The!kinds!of!advertising!of!luxury!goods!in!world1class!fashion!magazines!in!the!first!half!of!2011!(Units:$In$million)$
It!is!worth!to!find!that!different!kinds!of!luxury!products!have!different!choice!and!focus!
of! advertising.! The! table! above! shows! that! cosmetics! and! make1up! products! mainly!
chose!Cosmopolitan! for!advertising,!recorded!at!111.24!and!21.43!million!respectively.!
On!the!other!hand,!jewelry,!clothing,!watch,!leather!goods!and!fragrance!select!ELLE!as!
the!main!media!to!put!advertisements.! !
In!conclusion,!world1class!fashion!magazines!show!obvious!advantages!in!attracting!the!
advertising! of! luxury! brands.! And! the! incomes! brought! by! advertising! revenue! far!
exceeded!that!of!middle1class!fashion!magazines,!such!as!Mina,!Vivi!and!Self.! !
c. A%new%attempt%of%publishing%
At! the! beginning! of! 2012,! two!main!world1class! fashion!magazines!Cosmopolitan! and!
ELLE! took! new! actions! to! reply! to! the! market! competition.! ELLE! changed! into!
!
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26!
semimonthly!while!Cosmopolitan!established!two!versions! in!one!month.!The!pictures!
below!show!the!cover!pages!of!the!two!magazines.! !
!Picture!1The!cover!of!the!first!issue!of!ELLE’s!semimonthly!
!
Picture!2!The!first!cover!of!the!January!pairs!issue!of!Cosmopolitan!
3. Marketing%Strategy%
In! order! to! cope! up! with! the! changing! market! environment! and! achieve! sustainable!
competitive!advantages!to!compete!with!domestic!and!Japanese!style!fashion!magazines,!
world1class!fashion!magazines!never!stop!their!efforts!in!planning!and!conducting!their!
market!strategies!and!make!adjustment!according!to!internal!and!external!changes.! !
A. Product(
“Fashion”! is! the! core! product! of! world1class! magazines.! The! magazine! is! the! major!
!
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medium! to! offers! the! latest! information! on! fashion! to! target! audiences.! Their! actual!
products! are! brand! name,! packing! (cover),! quality! of! the! articles,! styling,! and! all! the!
feature! stories! covered! in! the!magazine.! In!China,!world1class! fashion!magazines! also!
provide! certain! augmented! products! such! as! websites,! blogs,! online! service,!
membership!club!and!now!some!mobile!terminal!such!as!Apple!applications.! !
B. Price(
World1class!fashion!magazines!use!different!pricing!approach!in!different!countries.!In!
China!they!use!competitor1based!pricing.!As!we!could!see!from!the!table!below!that!in!
order!to!compete!with!each!other!and!gain!certain!market!share,!the!price!of!the!top!five!
world1class!fashion!magazines!are!the!same,!at!RMB!20.! !
%Harper’s%
Bazaar%Cosmopolitan% ELLE% VOGUE% Marie%Claire%
Price%(RMB)% 20! 20! 20! 20! 20!
Table!6The!price!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!in!Mainland!China!
Competitor1based!pricing!authorizes!local!market!to!adjust!price!based!on!the!changing!
of!competitor.! In!Mainland!China,! the!middle1class!fashion!magazines!such!like!VIVI! is!
priced!RMB!18,!which!is!a!little!lower!than!world1class!fashion!magazine.!However,!the!
low1end! magazine! such! like! Shanghai! style! is! priced! RMB! 6.5,! which! the! price! of!
world1class! fashion!magazines! is!more! than! three! times! of! it.! On! one! hand,! the! high!
price! of! world1class! fashion!magazines! reflect! their!market! positioning,! while! on! the!
other!hand!it!indicates!the!high!cost!of!printing!and!publishing!due!to!their!high!quality!
of!both!paper!and!contents.! !
!
!
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C. Place(
In! Mainland! China!magazine’s! overall! circulation! pattern! can! be! classified! into! three!
categories!–through!post!office,!directly! subscription!and! the! third1party!agent.!To!be!
specific,! these! distribution! channels! can! be! further! subdivided.! In! order! to! deliver!
products! to! end1users! efficiently! and! effectively,! these!world1class! fashion!magazines!
use!traditional!distribution!channels!such!like!bookstores,!newsagents!and!subscription!
as!well!as!new!channels.!Supermarkets,!trendy!coffee!shops!and!the!Internet!are!chosen!
as!the!potential!channels!for!distribution.!Distribution!channels!are!chosen!according!to!
their!abilities!to!reach!the!target!audience!that!they!value.!
a. Bookstores!
Bookstore!is!the!basic!and!regular!distribution!channel.! !
b. Subscription!
It!is!the!most!stable!distribution!channel!without!any!intermediaries!involved.!
c. Newsagents%and%Convenience%Stores!
Newsagents!and!Convenience!Stores!are!most!common!and!convenient!place!to!sell!
magazines.!Magazines!could!enjoy!high!exposure.! !
d. Supermarket!
Supermarket!provides!magazines!great!opportunity!to!expose!to!consumers,!which!
could!build!relationship!between!buyer!and!producer!and!cause!impulsive!purchase.!
e. Trendy%Coffee%Shops! !
This! is! potential! distribution! channels,! which! have! similar! market! target! as!
!
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world1class!fashion!magazines.!
f. OnGline%distribution!
Online!distribution!is!a!popular!method!of!distribution!in!recent!years.!All!the!listed!
five!firms!launched!their!own!magazine!app!for!IPad!and!iPhone!users,!which!could!
be!regarded!as!significant!attempt.!
D. Promotion(
Promotions! of! these! magazines! are! aimed! at! influencing! target! audience’s! feelings,!
briefs! and! behaviors! rather! than! simplify! informing,! reminding! or! persuading!
consumers!to!buy!the!products.!In!order!to!build!strong!relationships!with!customers,!it!
is!vital!to!choose!right!media!to!reach!target!market!to!sent!message!effectively!through!
the!channels.!
a. Advertising%
By!using!various!types!of!advertising,!world1class! fashion!magazines!could!deliver!the!
message!to!its!full!extent.!Out!door!advertising!is!used!due!to!the!catching!pictures!and!
visual! stimulus.! In1door! and!on1line! advertising! are! essential! because! they! could! gain!
target! audience’s! attention! at! a! relatively! low! cost.! Nowadays,! covert! advertising! is! a!
potential!kind!of!advertising!because!magazines!could!get!more!exposure!and!to!some!
extent!create!topics.!For!example,!both!Cosmopolitan!and!Vogue!China!had!used!covert!
advertising!by!cooperating!with!a!TV!program!in!CCTV16!called<iøħƓ>.! ! !
b. Sales%promotion!
Main! sales! promotions! of! world1class! fashion! magazines! are! freebies! and! low! price!
!
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subscription.! Both! of! these! methods! aim! at! increasing! the! added! value! and! product!
attractiveness.! !
c. Public%Relation!
Public!Relation!method!is!popular!among!world1class!fashion!magazines!due!to!that!this!
promotion!method!could!inform!the!fashion!industry!and!those!who!pay!close!attention!
to! fashion! news! about! firm’s! culture,! position! and! value! in! a! more! acceptable! and!
effective!way.!In!order!to!move!into!its!target!segment!and!build!close!relationship!with!
them,! topics! and!news!about! their!magazines! are!produced.!Therefore,! special! events!
are!held!such!as,!“Vogue!worldwide!Fashion’s!Night!Out”!which!launched!in!2009!within!
18! countries! worldwide,! including! China;! microfilm! ELLE! @! Paris! in! 2012! which!
framing! from! Paris! Fashion! Week,! and! Harper’s$ Bazaar! also! held! annually! “Bazaar!
Charity!Night”.! !
! ! ! ! ! !Picture!3!The!Poster!for!2009!Bazaar!Charity!Night!&!The!Poster!for!2010!VOGUE!Fashion!Night!Out!in!Beijing!
!
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31!
d. Direct%and%OnGline%promotion!
By!using! social!media!as! the!on1line!promotion,!world1class! fashion!magazines! create!
two1way! communication! with! consumers! so! that! it! could! get! useful! feedback! of! the!
messages!delivered.!Additionally,!due!to!the!benefits!of!deep!interaction!of!social!media,!
these!firms!could!reinforce!the!relationship!with!target!audience.!
4. SWOT%Analysis%
This! part! will! highlight! and! identify! the! strengths,! weaknesses,! opportunities,! and!
threats!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!to!help!them!evaluate!the!internal!and!external!
situation!of! their! current!performance! in!Chinese!market!and!prepared! for! the! future!
strategies.!Since!the!external!market!environment!and!internal!operation!environment!
will!change!all!the!time,!therefore,!the!SWOT!analysis!in!this!part!is!mainly!based!on!the!
current! performance! of! world1class! fashion! magazines! and! the! fashion! magazines!
industry!in!Mainland!China.!
!Table!7!SWOT!Analysis!of!worldQclass!fashion!magazines!
!
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32!
A. Strengths(
a. Long%history% %
Most! of! the! world1class! fashion! magazines! have! long! history,! for! example! Harper’s$
Bazaar!founded!in!1867,!Cosmopolitan!was!established!in!1892!and!Vogue!was!set!up!in!
1892.! During! hundreds! years! of! developments,! they! had! already! accumulated! rich!
experience! in! fashion! magazine! publication,! formed! their! own! market! positions! and!
brand!images,!which!create!brand!awareness,!recognition!and!provide!emotional!value!
to!the!target!audience.! !
b. Outstanding%brand%power%and%the%support%of%parent%company!
Most! world1class! fashion! magazines! are! belonged! to! a! certain! corporation,! which!
professional! or! historical! in! publish! or! fashion! industry.! Therefore,! they! have! strong!
background! support! and! brand! power! to! face! the! fierce! market! competition.! Take!
Cosmopolitan! and! Harper’s! Bazaar! for! instance,! both! of! them! are! owned! by! Hearst!
Corporation!that!is!an!American!mass!media!group!and!is!one!of!the!largest!diversified!
communications!companies!in!the!world.! !
c. Excellence%product%and%professional%contents% %
Compared!with!low1end!magazines,!the!icon!fashion!magazines!are!well!produced!and!
provide!excellent!reading!experience.!Additionally,!the!printing!technology!used!in!the!
production!enables!magazines!to!enhancing!the!graphic!presentation!of! the!magazine.!
The! increased! quality! of! magazines! has! helped! these! high1end! magazines! to! create!
customer! value! compare! to! its! competitors.! What’s! more,! the! professional! editors,!
!
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photographers!and!designers!ensure! theses!world1class! fashion!magazines! to!provide!
authoritative!information,!comments!and!suggestions!about!fashion!and!style.! !
d. High%status%in%industry%
Since!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!mainly!focused!on!the!high1end!fashion!trend,!
the!main!strength!of!them!is!their!prestigious!and!up1market!image,!which!their!readers!
aspire! to.! Coordinated! with! famous! designers,! photographers! and! models,! they!
presented!fashion!and!beauty!by!using!unique!angle!of!view!to!reflect!the!local!culture!
of!publication!place.!Most! icon!fashion!magazines!have!high!status! in! fashion! industry!
and! own! outstanding! talent.! For! example,! VOGUE! is!widely! regarded! as! the! “Fashion!
Bible”! and! its! current! editor1in1chief! of! American! Vogue,! Anna! Wintour,! is! widely!
credited!as!being!one!of!the!most!influential!figures!in!global!fashion!industry.! !
B. Weaknesses( (
a. Lack%of%practicality% %
Both!the!articles!and!advertisings!in!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!focused!on!
luxury!products!and!high!quality!of!life.!Though!they!provide!the!fashion!and!style!that!
most! women! aspire! of,! the! fashion! information! and! beauty! suggestions! are! lack! of!
practicality.!To!be!specific,! in!China,!the!contents!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!
relatively!foreign!to!the!public!due!to!its!European!and!American!styles,!which!are!not!
suitable! for! Asian! aesthetic,! especially,! when! compared! to! Asian1based! fashion!
magazines!like!Mina!and!Vivi.!Additionally,!the!dressing!recommend!and!makeup!trend!
pursue!more!visual!impact!and!artistic!enjoyment!rather!than!daily!use.! !
!
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34!
b. Long%cycle% %
Fashion!is!changing!at!anytime.!Since!most!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!monthly!
published,!so!some!contents!may!hysteresis!and!can’t!be!published!in!time.! !
c. Low%brand%loyalty%and%high%replacement% %
With! the!maturing! of! the! fashion!magazine! industry,! no! one! could! outshine! from! the!
market.!In!China,!customers!have!a!lot!of!alternatives!of!fashion!magazines.!Therefore,!
high! replacement! and! low! brand! loyalty! are! the! main! weakness! of! world1class!
magazines!due! to! the! consumers! could!be! easily! attracted!by! the!price! or! the! special!
contents!of!a!certain!magazines.! !
C. Opportunities% %
a. The%development%of%Internet%technology% (
The! popularity! of! Internet! make! the! electronic! magazines! become! popular.! Many!
magazines! begin! to! develop!mobile! and! online! terminal.! Therefore,! the! products! and!
services!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!can!also!extent!to!Internet!and!mobile!phone!
users! so! that! the! readership! could! be! expanded.! What’s! more,! the! improvement! of!
Internet! technology! and! increasing! trust! of! consumers! in! providing! personal!
information! on! the! Internet! could! help! these! magazines! to! receive! more! online!
subscription.! Consumer! database! can! also! be! formed! for!monitoring! consumer! needs!
and!create!customer!value.! !
b. Growing%popularity%of%social%media!
Additionally,!the!rapidly!development!of!social!media!provides!another!opportunity!for!
!
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35!
world1class! fashion! magazines.! By! using! social! media,! take! weibo! for! instance,! the!
editors!could!contact!directly!with!the!target!audience,!which!could!be!regard!as!a!kind!
of!soft!advertising.!Therefore,! the!brand!exposure!could!be! increased!and!at! the!same!
time!attract!more!attention!from!consumers.! ! !
c. Horizontal%integration%
Horizontal! integration! is!widely!used! in! fashion! industry!to! leverage!brand! image!and!
broader! brand! awareness.! With! prestige! reputation! in! fashion! industry,! world1class!
fashion! magazines! have! already! had! brand! awareness! and! recognition;! therefore,!
horizontal! integration! can! leverage! its! brand! image! and! reputation! to! provide!
consumers!more!products!than!just!its!magazines.! !
d. Increasing%potential%customers%
Nowadays,! more! and! more! people,! including! men,! tend! to! concern! fashion! trend.!
Additionally,!the!rise!of!the!middle!class!and!the!prevalence!of!European!and!American!
fashion!provide!excellent!opportunity!to!expand!the!readership!of!world1class! fashion!
magazines! to! potential! customers.! Besides,! people’s! purchase! power! of! developing!
countries! like!China!and! India! is! increasing,!which!produce!more!potential! customers!
for!world1class!fashion!magazines.! !
D. Threats(
a. The%development%of%new%media%
The! improvement! in! information! technology! force! printed!media! industry! undergoes!
major!change.!Since!people!could!get!free!fashion!information!from!Internet,!only!a!few!
!
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36!
of!people!have!the!willingness!to!pay!money!on!world1class! fashion!magazines!due!to!
their!high!price.!On! the!other!hand,! it! is! convenient! to!get! information! from! Internet;!
however,!magazines!are!heavy!and!thick!which!not!easy!to!carry.! !
b. Intensive%competition% %
Many!new!entrants!come!to!the!fashion!magazine!market!and!mainly!cause!two!kinds!of!
threat! to! world1class! fashion! magazines.! First,! the! low! price! and! portable! fashion!
magazines! such! as! Femina$ dispersed! part! of! the! mid1market! consumers! because!
customers!are!sensitive!to!the!price!of!magazines!and!the!mini!version!is!easy!to!carry!
and! read.! Second,! localized! and! Asian1styled! fashion! magazines! are! popular! among!
younger!consumers!that!become!the!threats!of!world1class!fashion!magazine.! !
c. Copyright%
It!is!a!very!serious!topic.!In!China,!there!are!some!small!magazines!use!Vogue’s!pictures!
without!notification.!The!high!price!may!make!people!download!illegal!scanning!version!
online.!This!kind!of!behavior!increases!the!possibility!of!losing!potential!audience.%
5. Existing%Problem%
Since!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!entered!Chinese!market!in!the!1980s!through!
copyright! cooperation,! they! have! gone! through! the! transition! period! and! the!
prosperous! period.! Recent! years,! their! market! leadership! is! more! or! less! shared! by!
Japanese!and!Korean1based!fashion!magazines.!Through!the!competition!in!the!market,!
these!world1class! fashion!magazines! show! their!own! shortcomings! and! the!defects!of!
the!market!competition.! !
!
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37!
A. Homogenization(of(content(and(lack(of(innovation(
Similar!printing!styles,!attracting!cover!page,!similar!fashion!information!and!nearly!the!
same!thickness!and!weight.!The!main!problem!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!is!the!
homogenization! of! content! and! this! is! mainly! reflected! from! two! aspects.! First,!
world1class! fashion! magazines! have! similar! content! set,! such! as! clothing,! cosmetics,!
celebrities,! sex,!and!gossip.!As!announced!by!magazines! themselves,!each!of! them!has!
different!positioning!and!target.!However,!hot!topics!always!occupied!important!forum!
in! different! magazines.! Second,! world1class! fashion! magazines! have! similar! editing!
method.!The!pictures,!make1up!trends!and!dress!collocation!suggestions!in!world1class!
fashion! magazines! are! spontaneously! use! T1stage! style.! The! models! appeared! in! the!
magazines!are!western!faces!and!the!styles!of!them!are!similar.! !
B. Low(brand(loyalty(and(could(be(easily(replaced(
The!brand! loyalty!of!world1class! fashion!magazines! is! relatively! low!due! to! their!high!
price!and!similar!contents!of!each!issue.!Consumers!do!not!form!buying!habits!and!their!
frequency!of!purchasing!is!random.!The!power!of!substitute!is!high,!so!the!purchase!of!
world1class! fashion!magazines!may!be! easily! replaced!by! free!online! information! and!
electronic!version.!
C. Diversified(marketing(channels(but(convergence(
There! is! no! doubt! that! the! competition! of! distribution! channels! among! world1class!
fashion!magazines!are! intensively.!Convenience!store,!newsagents,!airport,!bookstores!
and! online! subscription! are! the! main! distribution! channels! of! world1class! fashion!
!
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38!
magazines.! Though! the! distribution! channels! looks! diversified,! in! fact,! it! is! highly!
convergence.!Because!these!distribution!channels!are!easily!to!achieved!and!world1class!
fashion!magazines!do!not!gain!obvious!advantages!from!this!section.! !
D. Limited(promotion(and(lack(of(innovation(
Though!promotions!cannot!enhance!the!brand!loyalty,!it!could!be!used!to!increase!sales!
dramatically.! Therefore,! in! order! to! add! value! and! stimulate! the! desire! of! purchase,!
world1class!fashion!magazines!use!promotions!frequently.!However,!the!most!common!
method!is!bundling!sales!and!freebies,!which!could!be!easily! imitated!and!replaced!by!
competitors.! !
E. Declining(market(share(
As!we!analyzed!above,!the!market!share!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!declining!
and!they!are!undergoing!the!challenge!of!Japanese!fashion!magazines.%
% %
!
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39!
Part%4%Questionnaire%Analysis%
1. Rationale%of%Questionnaire%
To! investigate! the! reasons! of! above! problems! existing! and! realize! ordinary! readers!
recognition!towards!current!fashion!magazine,!we!conduct!the!online!survey!in!forms!of!
multiple!choices!and!rating!scale.!Before!publishing!the!questionnaire!online,!a!pretest!
method! was! done! through! inviting! 15! mainland! university! students! to! fill! the!
questionnaires.!After!communicating!with!the!pretest!group,!questionnaire!was!revised.! !
Thereafter,!online!survey!was!published!from!Feb!18!to!Mar!8.! !
We!divide!our!questionnaire!in!three!parts.!The!first!part!is!personal!information!of!the!
respondents,! including! gender,! age,! where! do! they! from,! education! level,! occupation,!
monthly! income;! and! how! do! they! pay! attention! to! fashion! information! and! their!
purchase! habit! towards! fashion! magazine.! The! second! part! is! mainly! focus! on!
respondents’!opinion!towards!fashion!magazines’!price,!cover,!design,!content!and!their!
favorable! magazine.! In! third! part,! after! respondents’! choose! the! magazine,! what! we!
want!to!investigate!is!about!the!customer’s!involvement!and!attitude!towards!particular!
magazine;!they!were!measured!by!customer!product!involvement!degree!(Zaichkowsky,$
1994)! and! customers’! brand! recognition! (Keller$ Kevin,$ 1993)! –!measuring! four! brand!
elements:!brand!credibility,!brand!personality,!brand!loyalty!and!word!of!mouth.! !
To!make!questionnaire!more!convincible,!following!are!some!setting!rationale.!First,!age!
classification! is! based! on! the! self1identification! and! target! customer! description! of!
current!popular!magazines.!Therefore,!the!age!interval!is!classified!into!four!categories.! !
!
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40!
Then,! the! range! of! monthly! income! depends! on! National! Statistic! Bureau! (NSB)! 1!
￥2,000!is!the!cutoff!point!for!the!individual!income!tax!in!mainland!China.!To!make!the!
classification!more! specific! and!balanced,!we! take!2,000!as! interval.!Meanwhile,! since!
the! government! in! Mainland! China! set! 10,000! as! the! critical! point! of! high1income!
strengthening!individual!tax,!this!number!is!chosen!as!the!ending!point.!
Third,! questions! about! area,! education! level! and! occupation! were! settled! to! realize!
whether!these! factors!have! influence!on!respondents’!preference!towards! fashion!and!
fashion! magazine.! Therefore,! the! questions! about! fashion! information! resource! and!
whether!purchase!fashion!magazine!are!followed.!
The! second! and! third! parts! are! designed! to! the! respondents! who! have! purchased!
fashion!magazines.!In!the!second!part,!questions!about!fashion!magazines’!page,!price,!
cover! and! content! were! used! to! investigate! respondents’! preference! and! opinion!
towards! fashion!magazines.! And! in! third! part,! rating! scale! questions! are! set! to! study!
customers’! product! enduring! involvement! –! an! approach! to! adopt! the! social!
psychological!perspective!of!‘ego!involvement’!which!considers!the!perceived!personal!
relevance!of!an!object! to!an! individual,! in!this!case,!a!particular!magazine!to!a!reader;!
and! readers’! brand! recognition! towards! particular! magazine! –! which! can! help! to!
evaluate!differential!effect!of!brand!knowledge!on!customers’!response!to!the!marketing!
of!the!brand.!Therefore,!we!give!a!list!of!fashion!magazines!in!second!part!that!consist!of!
the!main! popular! fashion!magazines! in!Mainland! China!with! considerable! circulation!
and!cover!three!main!categories!–!domestic,!Japanese1Korean!style!and!world1class.%
!
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41!
2. Questionnaire%Sample%
Since!the!whole!project!mainly!focuses!on!the!fashion!magazines!operated!in!Mainland!
China,!the!questionnaire!sample!was!also!chosen!from!the!same!area.!Based!on!the!data!
from!Chinesebk.com,!in!2011,!the!total!average!circulation!of!Top!5!fashion!magazines!
in!Mainland!China!is!about!100,000!per!issue2! and!these!5!magazines!stand!about!80%!
market! share! of! Mainland! China! fashion! magazine! market.! Therefore,! the! estimated!
number! 125,000! was! assumed! as! the! average! readership! size! of! fashion! magazines.!
Using!95%!confidence!level,!we!calculate!and!find!that!the!sample!size!will!between!380!
and!470!while! the! confidence! interval! located!between!4.5%!and!5%! 1! the!margin! of!
error!is!acceptable.!Therefore,!450!was!chosen!as!sample!size!initially.!
! = ! !1+ ! ∗ !!!
where$n=sample$size,$
$ $ $ $ $ N=population$size$
$ $ $ $ e=confidence$interval$
To! access! the! target! respondents! more! easily,! we! designed! our! questionnaire! on!
Sojump.com.!Based!on! the!calculation!and!estimation!above,!450!questionnaires!were!
delivered! via! Internet.! At! last,! 401! out! of! 450! questionnaires! have! been! effectively!
collected!back.!In!this!case,!the!response!rate!of!the!online!survey!is!89.1%.! !
%
Therefore,!the!questionnaire!sample!is!401.%
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!2! Take!the!average!of!10!main!cities!in!Mainland!China.!
89.1%=401�450!
!
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42!
3. Result%Analysis% %
A� Background(of(Respondents(
As!previous!analysis!mentioned,! for! total!450!questionnaires!sent,!401!questionnaires!
are!collected!finally.!Following!are!some!basic!information!of!these!401!respondents:!
a. Gender%
Gender% Frequency% Percent%
Male! 150! 37.41%!Female! 251! 62.59%!Total! 401! 100.0%!
Table!8!Gender!of!Respondents!
Known!from!Table1,!the!401!respondents!are!consisting!of!150!male!and!251!female!in!
which!female!stands!a!larger!distribution.! !
b. Age%
Age% Frequency% Percent%
<=20% 7! 1.75%!21~30% 372! 92.77%!31~40% 16! 3.99%!>=41% 6! 1.5%!Total% 401! 100%!
Table!9!Age!of!Respondents!
From! Table! 2,! 92.77%! of! respondents! are! in! 20125! age! groups! since! most!
questionnaires! are! sent! to! our! contemporary! and! they! are! also! regarded! as! the!main!
target! customers!of! current! fashion!magazine.!That’s!why! there! is! few! response! from!
“younger!than!20”!and!“older!than!41”!age!groups.! !
c. Area%
For! this! dimension,!we!divide! the!whole!China! into!8! areas!which! are!Eastern!China,!
!
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43!
South!China,!Central!China,!North!China,!North!West,!South!West,!East!North,!and!HK,!
Macau!and!Taiwan;!and!since!the!project! is! focus!on!Mainland!China,! the!respondents!
form!the!last!area!are!ignored.! !
Area% Frequency% Percent%
Eastern%China% 215! 53.62%!Southern%China% 27! 6.73%!Central%China% 11! 2.74%!Northern%China% 83! 20.7%!Northwest%China% 5! 1.25%!Southwest%China% 26! 6.48%!Northeast%China% 34! 8.48%!HK,%Macau%and%TW% 0! 0%!
Total% 401! 100.0%!Table!10!Areas!of!Respondents!
As!the!result!show!in!Table!3,!respondents!are! from!all!over!China.!The!percentage!of!
the! respondents! from! Eastern! China! (53.62%)! is! highest! since! this! area! covers!most!
provinces!of!Mainland!China!and!includes!several!first!tier!cities.%
d. Education%Level%
Table! 4! illustrates! that!most! of! our! respondents! achieved! bachelor! degree! (75.56%)!
which!means!the!average!education!level!of!respondents!is!relatively!high.!
Education%Level% Frequency% Percent%
Junior%College%or%Below% 28! 6.98%!Bachelor%Degree% 303! 75.56%!Master%Degree% 67! 16.71%!PHD%or%Above% 3! 0.75%!
Total% 401! 100.0%!Table!11!Education!Levels!of!Respondents!
!!
!
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44!
e. Occupation%
Based!on!current!occupation!category!of!Mainland!China,!we!divided!it! into!four!main!
classification!buy!not!limited!to!these!categories!which!are!student,!national!authorities,!
enterprise!and!institutions!employee,!private!enterprise!employee!and!freelancer.!Table!
5! below! shows! that! the! largest! proportion! of! respondents! is! private! enterprise!
employee!(35.66%)!while!students!also!stands!a!considerable!percentage!(27.43%).!
Occupation% Frequency% Percent%
Student% 110! 27.43%!National%Authorities,%Enterprise%and%
Institutions%Employee%88! 21.95%!
Private%Enterprise%Employee% 143! 35.66%!Freelancer% 22! 5.49%!Others% 38! 9.48%!Total% 401! 100.0%!
Table!12!Occupations!of!Respondents!
f. Purchase%Habit%
To! carry! forward! the! questionnaire! to! second! part,! question! about! whether!
respondents!have!purchased! fashion!magazine!was! set.!Table!6!below! illustrates! that!
only!138!respondents!(34.41%)!have!purchased!fashion!magazine!which!means!that!the!
readership!of!fashion!magazine!does!not!stand!a!large!part!of!population.!
Ever%Purchase% Frequency% Percent%
Yes! 138! 34.41%!No! 263! 65.59%!Total! 401! 100.0%!
Table!13!Purchase!Habit!of!Respondents!
However,!we!have!some! interesting! findings!after!cross1analysis! the!questions!among!
questions!in!first!part.!
!
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45!
1 Information%resource%and%purchase%habit%
Compared!with! the! low! percentage! of! fashion!magazine! purchase,!we! find! that!most!
people! (61.35%)! choose! to! get! fashion! information! from! fashion! magazine! and!
newspaper.! One! possible! reason! is! most! readers! regard! fashion! magazines! as! the!
fashion! information! resources!but!do!not! form!purchase!habit.!The!other! reason!may!
related! to! the!current!distribution!channels!of! fashion!magazine! is!not!only! limited! to!
retailing,!customers!have!alternative!channel!to!access!to!fashion!magazine.!
!Figure!5!Where!You!Get!Fashion!Information!
1 The%fashion%magazine%purchase%behavior%varies%by%gender.% %
Take! gender! as! the! factor,! Table! 7! shows! the! one1way! ANOVA! result! of! comparing!
gender’s! influence! on! purchase! behavior.! In! this! case,! the! F! statistic! is! significant!
(p=0.00<0.05),! which! means! the! gender! has! influence! on! purchase! behavior! and!
purchase!behavior!varies!by!gender.!Compared!with!Table!8,! female!respondents!who!
2.24%
36.16%
55.61%
19.45%
18.45%
53.62%
61.35%
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7
Others
Friends' Sharing
Social Network Websites
Professional Forum
Professional Blog
TV Programme
Fashion Magazine & Newspaper
Where You Get Fahion Information
!
!!
46!
have! purchased! the! fashion!magazine! stands! a! larger! portion! than!male! respondents!
who!have!the!same!purchase!behavior.!It!can!be!easily!understood!that!female!always!
put!more!attention!on!fashion!and!beauty.!
! F! Sig.!Between!Groups! 18.934! .000!Within!Groups! ! !Total! ! !
Table!14!One1way!ANOVA!
Gender% Yes% No% Total%
Male% 32!(21.33%)! 118!(78.67%)! 150!Female% 106!(42.23%)! 145!(57.77%)! 251!
Table!15!Gender’s!Influence!on!Purchase!Behavior!
1 Age%has%no%significant%relationship%with%purchase%behavior.!
Usually,! fashion! magazines! are! regarded! as! the! exclusive! reading! for! young! people.!
Therefore,! the! assumption! of! the! relationship! between! age! and! purchase! behavior! is!
established.!However,!the!coefficient!in!Table!9!illustrates!that!there!is!no!relationship!
between!age!and!fashion!magazine!purchase!behavior!1!since!the!sig!is!0.073!(>0.05).!To!
some!extend,!it!can!mean!that!fashion!is!becoming!common!topic!among!all!age!groups.!
Coefficientsa!
Model!Standardized!Coefficients! Sig.!
Beta!
1! age! 1.090! .073!
a.$Dependent$Variable:$Do$you$have$the$habit$to$purchase$fashion$magazine?!
Table!16!Relationship!between!Age!and!Purchase!Behavior!
!!!
!
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47!
1 The%fashion%magazine%purchase%behavior%varies%by%area.!
Take!area!as!factor!to!do!the!one1way!ANOCA,!The!F!statistic!in!Table!10!is!significant!
(p=0.00<0.05)! which! means! that! the! areas! has! effect! on! fashion! magazine! purchase!
behavior.! This! result! is! consistent! with! Table! 11! –! the! purchase! behavior! of! people!
come! from!different! areas! is!different! –!peoples! in!northwest!China,! southwest!China!
and! northern! China! have! a! relatively! high! percentage! of! fashion! magazine! purchase!
behavior.!
ANOVA!! F! Sig.!
Between!Groups! 3.958! .000!Within!Groups! ! !Total! ! !
Table!17!One1way!ANOVA!
Area% Yes% No%
Eastern%China! 30.70%! 69.30%!Southern%China! 14.81%! 85.19%!Central%China! 27.27%! 72.73%!Northern%China! 43.37%! 56.63%!Northwest%China! 60.00%! 40.00%!Southwest%China! 69.23%! 30.77%!Northeast%China! 23.53%! 76.47%!
Table!18!Areas’!Influence!on!Purchase!Behavior!
1 No%relationship%between%education%level%and%fashion%magazine%purchase%
behavior.%
Based!on!the!analysis,!education!level!has!no!relationship!with!fashion!magazine!
purchase!behavior!since!the!sig.!if!larger!than!0.05.!That!is,!for!fashion!magazine!
!
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48!
purchase!behavior,!customers’!education!level!won’t!influence!their!purchase!behavior.!
Fashion!magazine!is!more!like!a!common!topic.!
Coefficientsa!
Model!Standardized!Coefficients! t! Sig.!
Beta!
1! education!level! 1.005! 1.107! .915!
a.$Dependent$Variable:$Do$you$have$the$habit$to$purchase$fashion$magazine?$Table!19!Relationship!between!Education!level!and!Purchase!Behavior!
1 Occupation% has% no% influence% on% the% different% purchase% behavior% towards%
fashion%magazine%
After!comparing!the!means!among!different!occupation,!there!is!not!any!variation!since!
F!statistic!is!not!significant!(p=0.482!>!0.05).!That!is,! for!fashion!magazine!readership,!
the!occupation!can!cover!all!kinds!of!industry.! !
ANOVA!! F! Sig.!Between!Groups! .869! .482!Within!Groups! ! !Total! ! !
Table!20!One1way!ANOVA!
1 There% is% a% significant% negative% relationship% between% monthly% income% and%
fashion%magazine%purchase%behavior.%
The! coefficients! in! Table! 14! shows! that! there! is! a! significant! negative! relationship!
between! monthly! income! and! fashion! magazine! purchase! behavior! since! p=0.008!
(<0.05)! while! the! Beta! value! is! negative.! That! is,! the! more! the! customers’! monthly!
income,!the!few!the!fashion!magazine!purchase!behavior!happened.!It’s!a!surprise!result!
!
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49!
since!many!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!target!at!high1income!level!people.!It!may!
be! that! many! fashion! magazines! advertise! for! initiate! high1quality! life! is! what!
high1income!level!people!already!enjoyed.!Therefore,!how!to!access!to!these!people!and!
encourage! them! to! purchase! fashion! magazine! should! be! a! questions! for! these!
magazines!to!consider.%
Coefficientsa!
Model!Standardized!Coefficients! t! Sig.!
Beta!
1! monthly!Income! 1.131! 12.646! .008!
a.!Dependent$Variable:$Do$you$have$the$habit$to$purchase$fashion$magazine?!
Table!21!Relationship!between!Monthly!Income!and!Purchase!Behavior!
B� General(Attitude(towards(Fashion(Magazine(
In!second!part,!to!evaluate!respondents’!purchase!frequency!and!their!attitude!towards!
fashion! magazines’! page! number,! cover! preference,! artistic! design! and! content,! five!
general!questions!are!designed!in!the!questionnaire.!To!obtain!a!convincible!result,!only!
people! who! have! ever! purchased! fashion! magazine! are! required! to! answer! these!
questions.!As!a!result,!138!of!401!respondents!answer!these!questions.!
a. Purchase%Frequency%
Figure! 2! illustrates! that! most! respondents! (39.86%)! buy! fashion! magazine! not! that!
frequently!while!23.19%!respondents!purchase!every! issue! 1! they!can!be! regarded!as!
loyal!customers!and!fashion!amateur.%
!
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50!
!Figure!6!Purchase!Frequency!of!Respondents!
b. Preference%
Other! four! questions! in! this! part! are! related! to! customers’! preference! towards! some!
basic!elements!of!fashion!magazine.!
1 Page%Number%
!Figure!7!Page!Number!Preference! !
As!previous!mentioned,!nowadays,!most!magazines!are!priced!at!¥20!with!128!pages.!
23.19% 22.46%
39.86%
14.49%
0.00% 5.00%
10.00% 15.00% 20.00% 25.00% 30.00% 35.00% 40.00% 45.00%
Every Issue Twice per Quarter Several Times per Year
It passed a long period after lasr
purchase
Purchase Frequency
5.80%
18.84% 23.19%
52.17%
0.00%
10.00%
20.00%
30.00%
40.00%
50.00%
60.00%
64 Pages 80 Pages 128 Pages Never Mind
Page Number Preference
!
!!
51!
However,! this!price! is! regarded!as! relatively!high!since!customers!criticized! there!are!
too!many!advertisements!in!which!increase!the!page!numbers!and!make!the!magazine!
heavier.! Therefore,! to! realize! customers’! preference! towards! the! page! number! of!
content,!three!frequently!used!page!numbers!are!set!as!choices.!
To! our! surprised,! as! Figure! 3! shows,! more! than! half! of! respondents! think! that! they!
won’t! care! the! page! number! if! there! is! high! quality! content.! That! means,! for! most!
customers,! content! is! still! the! primary! factor! they! consider!when! purchasing! fashion!
magazine.!Meanwhile,! it! is! no! doubt! that! there! is! still! some! customers! hope! the! ¥20!
price!can!include!more!contents.!
1 Cover%Model%
!Figure!8!Cover!Model!Preference!
Based! on! previous! analysis,! current! fashion! magazines! usually! use! famous! model! as!
cover!model!and!it!is!more!like!a!custom!of!the!industry.!But!how!customers!think!about!
the!cover!model?!Figure!4!shows!that!44.85%!respondents!prefer!some!celebrities!with!
1.45%
8.70%
13.77%
47.83%
2.90%
25.36%
Cover Model Preference
Female Celebrities
Male Celebrities
Famous Model
Special Celebrities without Gender Limitation
Cartoon or Still Life
Never Mind
!
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52!
significant! characters! rather! than! famous! model,! one! interviewee’s! opinion! may!
illustrates!the!reason!–!“nowadays,!the!fashion!is!not!only!the!clothing!on!the!Runway,!it!
is!more! likely! a! lifestyle,! a! life! attitude.! Rather! than! seek! for! the! beautiful! clothing,! I!
think!most!people!begin!to!seek!an!unique!individuality.”!(Sherry!Wu)!
1 Artistic%Design%
When!asked!about!respondents’!opinions! towards!artistic!design!of! fashion!magazine,!
nearly!67%!respondents!think!it!is!very!important!for!fashion!magazine!while!only!29%!
respondents! put! content! as! primacy! (Figure! 5).! It! seems! like! there! is! a! conflict! with!
previous! result! about! page! number! preference.! Therefore,! we! randomly! interviewed!
some!respondents,!they!said!that!they!think!artistic!design!is!a!very!important!elements!
of!a!magazine!focus!on!fashion!and!the!content!of!fashion!magazine!can!not!only!include!
the!articles!and!pictures!but!also!the!artistic!design!and!layout.! !
!Figure!9!Artistic!Design!Preference%
%
66.67%
28.99%
4.35%
Artistic Design Preference
Design is very important
The most important should be content
Never Mind
!
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53!
1 Content%
!Figure!10!Content!Preference!
There!is!no!doubt!that!current!fashion!magazines!are!not!only!focus!on!clothing,!trend!
and! beauty! but! also! pay! attention! to! aspects! that! closely! related! to! life.! As! Figure! 6!
shows,!although!clothing!information!is!still!the!emphasis!of!most!respondents!(78.99%)!
and! beauty! information! and! trend! information! have! a! relatively! high! readership,!
dressing! skills! and! food! &! beverage! and! lifestyle! attract! more! than! 60%! attention.!
Besides,! customers! begin! to! put! sight! to! travelling! information! (56.52%)! and! brand!
story!(47.1%).!
C� Analysis(of(World(Class(Fashion(Magazine(
As! previous! mentioned,! according! to! the! circulation! and! reputation,! we! conduct! a!
fashion!magazine! list!which!consist!of!Top!15!popular! fashion!magazine.!To!make!the!
analysis! focus! on! world1class! fashion!magazine! and! compare! the! difference! between!
this! kind! of! fashion! magazine! and! other! style! fashion! magazine! based! on! previous!
2.17% 37.68%
47.10% 56.52% 57.97%
68.84% 65.94%
55.80% 78.99%
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9
Others Health Information
Brand Story Traveling Information
Trend Information Dressing Skills
F&B and Lifestyle Beauty Information
Clothing Information
Content Preference
!
!!
54!
definition,! we! divide! the! whole! market! into! three! categories! based! on! the! content,!
background!and!style.!
Category% WorldGClass% JapaneseGKorean% Domestic%
Magazine%
1!Vogue!1!Marie!Claire!
1!For!Him!Magazine!1!Elle!
1!Cosmopolitan!1!Harper’s!Bazaar!
1!Self!1!GQ!
1!Mina!1!Rayli!1!Vivi!
1!Smart!She!1!Woman!
1!Shanghai!Style!1!Official!
Table!22!Fashion!Magazine!Classifications!
As! Table! 15! shows,! from! the! perspective! of! the! quantity,! the! world1class! fashion!
magazine! has! a! significant! advantage.!However,! known! from!previous! part,! Rayli! has!
the!largest!circulation!and!market!share!in!Mainland!China.!Therefore,!we!conduct!rate!
scale!questions!about!customers’!product! involvement!and!brand!recognition;!and!try!
to!find!the!reasons!through!comparing!customers’!opinion!among!different!categories.!
!Figure!11!Fashion!Magazine!Preference!
0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.2
Magazine Preference
!
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55!
The! result! of! Figure! 7! shows! consistence! with! previous! information! about! the!
popularity!of! fashion!magazine!–!Rayli!has! the!highest!percentage.!Based!on!Figure!7,!
we!summarize!the!total!number!of!each!category!as!Table!16!presents.!
For! the!option!of! “others”,!after!reviewing!the!answers,!8!of! them!are!trend!magazine!
which! are! excluded! while! other! 4! are! domestic! fashion! magazine.! Therefore,! the!
number!is!calculated!into!domestic!fashion!magazine.!
Category% Total%Number%
WorldGClass% 62!JapaneseGKorean% 55!
Domestic% 13!Total% 130!
Table!23!Fashion!Magazine!Number!
To!make!us!have!a!better!understanding!towards!customers’!attitude!about!these!three!
types! fashion!magazine,! especially!on!world1class! fashion!magazine.!The! comparisons!
are! done! among! three! categories! by! comparing! customers’! product! involvement! and!
brand!recognition!while!the!analysis!will!focus!on!world1class!fashion!magazines.!
a. Customers’%Product%Involvement%
Product!involvement!is!commonly!defined!as!a!consumers’!enduring!perceptions!of!the!
importance! of! the! product! category! based! on! the! consumers’! inherent! needs,! values,!
and! interests!(Zaichkowsky,$1985).!Doing!product! involvement!can!help!to!understand!
consumer!decision1making!behavior.!That!is,!for!high1involvement!products,!consumers!
are!more! likely! to! put!more! effort! to! do! research! before!make! the! purchase! decision!
such!as! searching!product! information!and!compared!among!different!brands.!On! the!
!
!!
56!
other!hand,!the!level!of!product!involvement!will!be!low!if!customers’!lack!of!motivation,!
effort!and!even!capability!in!relation!to!processing!information.! !
In! this! case,! ten! aspects! of! fashion! magazines! are! defined! to! evaluate! consumers’!
product!involvement.!The!range!of!each!element!is!from!1!to!5!(1!stands!for!customers’!
attitude!tends!to!the!relatively!positive!aspect!–!that!is,!high!product!involvement,!while!
5!means!customers!tends!to!think!the!fashion!magazine!in!a!relatively!negative!way!–!in!
other!words,! low!product! involvement.!Besides,!3! is!the!neutral!attitude!towards!each!
element).!That!is,!the!higher!the!score,!the!more!negative!the!consumers!think!about!the!
fashion!magazine.!
Option% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% Mean%
Appealing% 24(38.71%)! 21(33.87%)! 11(17.74%)! 4(6.45%)! 2(3.23%)! 3.98!
Exciting% 14(22.58%)! 22(35.48%)! 21(33.87%)! 5(8.06%)! 0(0%)! 3.73!
Fascinating% 16(25.81%)! 22(35.48%)! 20(32.26%)! 3(4.84%)! 1(1.61%)! 3.79!
Involving% 16(25.81%)! 21(33.87%)! 19(30.65%)! 5(8.06%)! 1(1.61%)! 3.74!
Meaningful% 17(27.42%)! 19(30.65%)! 19(30.65%)! 5(8.06%)! 2(3.23%)! 3.71!
Necessary% 8(12.9%)! 15(24.19%)! 26(41.94%)! 8(12.9%)! 5(8.06%)! 3.21!
Priceless% 6(9.68%)! 16(25.81%)! 27(43.55%)! 9(14.52%)! 4(6.45%)! 3.18!
Important% 7(11.29%)! 19(30.65%)! 24(38.71%)! 7(11.29%)! 5(8.06%)! 3.26!
Interesting% 17(27.42%)! 24(38.71%)! 16(25.81%)! 4(6.45%)! 1(1.61%)! 3.84!
Relevant% 9(14.52%)! 21(33.87%)! 20(32.26%)! 9(14.52%)! 3(4.84%)! 3.39!Table!24!Product!Involvement!of!World1class!Fashion!Magazine!
Table!17! shows!customers’!product! involvement!of!world1class! fashion!magazine,! the!
means!of!ten!aspects!are!located!between!3~4,!that!is,!for!world1class!fashion!magazine!
customers,! the! product! involvement! is! relatively! low.! The! possible! reason! may! be!
!
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57!
customers!see!little!different!among!world1class!fashion!magazine!and!do!little!research!
before!purchasing;! the!other! reason!may!be! the!distinguish!brand!recognition!help! to!
build!the!loyalty!which!leads!to!the!low!product!involvement.!
The! three! line! in! Figure! 8! present! the! product! involvement! level! of! three! kinds! of!
fashion!magazine.! On! the!whole,! they! show! a! similar! trend! on! customers’! perception!
towards! the! magazine! especially! world1class! fashion! magazine! and! Japanese1Korean!
fashion!magazine.!Specifically,!the!Japanese1Korean!fashion!magazine!generates!a!little!
higher! customer!perception! towards! total! ten!aspects!which!means! the! latter! enjoy!a!
higher! product! involvement.! That! is,! for! customers! of! Japanese1Korean! fashion!
magazine,! they! will! do!more! research! such! as! asking! for! friends’! opinion!when! they!
choose!to!buy!fashion!magazine!
The!interesting!thing!is!the!domestic!fashion!magazine!product!involvement.!Customers’!
perception!shows!a!fluctuant!on!this!line.!To!our!surprise,!customers!tend!to!think!the!
domestic! fashion! magazines! are! priceless! while! they! regard! the! magazines! are!
unappealing! than!other! two!types!of! fashion!magazine;!besides,! they!are! thinking! this!
kind!of!fashion!magazine!is!less!involving!while!feeling!they!are!relevant.!This!may!be!a!
side!evidence!of!current!situation!of!fashion!magazine!industry!–!the!good!and!bad!are!
intermingled!and!seek!for!the!same!price!competition;!close!to!readers’!life!but!lack!of!
viewing!from!the!perspective!of!readers.!
!
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58!
!Figure!12!Comparison!of!Fashion!Magazines'!Product!Involvement%
b. Customers’%Brand%Recognition%
From!the!secondary!research!which!shown!in!Literature!Review,!there!are! four!major!
aspects! for!us! to! study!a!brand,!which!are!brand!credibility,!brand!personality,!brand!
loyalty!and!word!of!mouth.!The!details!are!as!follows:!
• Brand%credibility:!trustworthy,!correct!information!and!confidence.! !
• Brand%personality:!sincere,!reliable!and!charming! !
• Brand%loyalty:!committed!and!likely!to!buy!
• Word%of%mouth:!talking!about!advantages!and!recommendation.! !
The! range! of! each! element! is! from! 1! to! 5! (1! stands! for! “strongly! disagree”! and! 5!
represents!“strongly!agree”!while!3!is!the!neutral!attitude!towards!each!element).! !
The! following! tables! show! respondents’!minds! towards! the! particular!magazine! they!
choose.!Based!our!category,!we!summarized!them!into!three!tables.!It!is!obvious!that!for!
1 1.5
2 2.5
3 3.5
4 4.5
5
Mea
n�Comparison of Product Involvement of Fahion
Magazine�
World-class
Japanese-Korean Domestic
!
!!
59!
brand! credibility,! the! highest!mean! is! 3.65! of!world1class! fashion!magazine!while! the!
customers! of! this! kind! of!magazine! show! a! higher! confidence! towards! the!magazine.!
That! is,! the!world1class!fashion!magazine!did!a!good!job!on!building!brand!credibility.!
On! contrary,! the! Japanese1Korean! fashion! magazine! generates! relatively! low! brand!
credibility! and! it! seems! like! the! readers! of! this! kind! of! magazine! lack! of! confidence!
towards!the!magazine.! !
For! brand! personality,! it’s! amazing! the! domestic! fashion!magazine! enjoy! the! highest!
score,!especially!for!“sincere”!part.!The!reason!may!be!the!contents!of!domestic!fashion!
magazine!are!more! close! to! the! readers’! life! and!Chinese! fashion.!But! the!world1class!
fashion!magazine!enjoy!the!highest!score!in!“charming”!aspect,! it!can!be!evidence!that!
most!world1class!successfully!build!the!brand!image!in!customers’!minds!as!upper1level!
and!charming.!Besides,!the!Japanese1Korean!fashion!magazine!shows!a!balanced!score!
in!all!three!parts.!
For!brand!loyalty,!the!readers!of!all!fashion!magazines!show!similar!brand!loyalty!level!
while!the!score!of!world1class!fashion!magazine!is!a!little!bit!higher.!What!need!to!pay!
attention! is! that! although! the! foreign! style! fashion! magazine! readers! show! higher!
tendency!for!future!buying,!there!are!more!readers!of!domestic!fashion!magazine!think!
they!are!committed!to!the!magazine.!
Also,!the!mean!of!word!of!mouth!presents!the!similarity!again,!and!although!world1class!
fashion!magazine!enjoy!a!higher!score!in!this!part,!it!is!the!readers!of!Japanese1Korean!
fashion!magazine!show!highest!willingness!to!recommend!magazine!and!the!domestic!
!
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60!
fashion!magazine’s!readers!has!the!highest!willingness!to!promote!magazine.! !
From!the!above!analysis,!we!can!say!that!people!have!neutral!feelings!toward!all!types!
of!fashion!magazine!while!world1class!fashion!magazine!shows!an!average!advantage!in!
brand!credibility,!brand!personality!and!word!of!mouth.!The!surprise!thing!is!although!
generating!highest! circulation!and! largest! readership,! it! seems! like! customers’!overall!
perception!towards!Japanese1Korean!fashion!magazine!is!neutral.! !
! ! Mean%
Brand%Credibility%
Trustworthy! 3.77!3.65!Bright!Future! 3.65!
Confidence! 3.52!
Brand%Personality%
Sincere! 3.77!3.78!Reliable! 3.77!
Charming! 3.79!
Brand%Loyalty%Likely!to!buy! 3.76!
3.60!Committed! 3.44!
Word%of%Mouth%Talk!about!its!advantages! 3.68!
3.74!Recommendation! 3.79!
Table!25!Brand!Recognition!of!World1class!Fashion!Magazine%
! ! Mean%
Brand%Credibility%
Trustworthy! 3.55!3.42!Bright!Future! 3.51!
Confidence! 3.20!
Brand%Personality%
Sincere! 3.87!3.68!Reliable! 3.73!
Charming! 3.45!
Brand%Loyalty%Likely!to!buy! 3.75!
3.59!Committed! 3.42!
Word%of%Mouth%Talk!about!its!advantages! 3.62!
3.71!Recommendation! 3.80!
Table!26!Brand!Recognition!of!Japanese1Korean!Fahion!Magazine!
!
!
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61!
! ! Mean%
Brand%Credibility%
Trustworthy! 3.85!3.62!Bright!Future! 3.69!
Confidence! 3.31!
Brand%Personality%
Sincere! 4.00!3.82!Reliable! 3.78!
Charming! 3.69!
Brand%Loyalty%Likely!to!buy! 3.62!
3.58!Committed! 3.54!
Word%of%Mouth%Talk!about!its!advantages! 3.77!
3.73!Recommendation! 3.69!
Table!27!Brand!Recognition!of!Domestic!Fashion!Magazine!
Combined! with! previous! analysis! on! other! questions,! the! reasons! may! be:! first,! the!
world1class!fashion!magazine’s!target!customers!–!high!income!level!–!has!less!fashion!
magazine!purchase!behavior;!then,!customers’!purchase!decision!may!be!influenced!by!
friends!and!online!opinion!leaders,!the!higher!willingness!to!recommend!the!magazine!
will! effect! friends’! purchase! decision;! second,! compared! with! world1class! fashion!
magazines’!charming!image,!Japanese1Korean!fashion!magazine!is!more!sincere!since!it!
focus!on!Asian!fashion!which!making!readers!feel!more!involving.%
4. Conclusion%
Through! synthesizing! and! comparing! the! entire! questionnaire! analysis! above! and!
combining!with!previous!parts!content,!following!conclusions!are!obtained:! !
A. Female(is(still(the(main(purchase(power(of(fashion(magazine(
Female! reader! is! still!main!purchase!power!of! fashion!magazine! since! female! is!more!
willing! to!pay!attention!on! fashion.!However,! the!existing!male! readers! especially! the!
considerable!purchase!number!of! ! “For!Him!Magazine”!shows!the!potentially!of!male!
!
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62!
fashion!magazine!market.!
B. Fashion(is(becoming(the(common(topic(among(peoples(
There!is!no!signification!relationship!between!age,!education!level!and!occupation!with!
fashion! magazine! purchase! behavior.! That! is,! the! readers! of! fashion! magazine! are!
located! at! each! age! group!with!different! education! level! and!occupation! –! this!means!
fashion!is!becoming!the!common!topic!and!attract!more!and!more!people!attention.! It!
illustrates!the!potential!market!of!current!fashion!magazine!industry.!
C. The(fashion(magazines’(distribution(could(pay(more(attention(on(area(difference(
Peoples!from!different!areas!present!different!fashion!magazine!purchase!behavior!due!
to! different! environmental! factors! such! as! economic,! culture,! income! level,! etc.!What!
fashion!magazines!can!learn!is!they!should!pay!more!attention!to!area!difference!when!
they!plan!to!expand!distribution!to!second1!or!third1tire!cities,!especially!the!southwest!
area!which!may! be! ignored! by! some!magazine! currently! but! shows! relatively! higher!
purchasing!potentially.!
D. Fashion(magazine(still(not(become(the(daily(reading.(
Based! on! the! analysis! on! the! purchase! frequency,! most! peoples! still! buy! fashion!
magazine! occasionally! rather! than! regularly.! That! is,! the! loyalty! degree! of! fashion!
magazine!is!still!low.!Compared!with!brand!recognition!score,!no!fashion!magazine!has!
built!up!a!loyal!readership.!Therefore,!what!fashion!magazines!need!to!consider!is!how!
to!build!loyal!readership!while!attract!new!readers.!
!
!
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63!
E. Various(content(with(excellent(artistic(design(is(important(
Customers’! requirements! towards! fashion! magazines’! design! and! content! is! high.! In!
customers’!opinion,! the! fashion!contents!are!not!only! limit! to!clothing!and!beauty!but!
include! various! aspect! of! life.! The! content! of! fashion!magazine! cannot! only! focus! on!
article!and!picture!but!also!design!and!layout.!
F. Cover(model(can(not(be(limited(to(fashion(model(and(stars(
Consumers! present! the! tire! of! the! cover!model! of! fashion!magazine! and! express! the!
willingness!to!see!more!special!celebrities!on!the!cover!without!gender!limitation.! !
Meanwhile,! the! result! of! the! high! frequency! purchase! fashion! magazine! shows! the!
consistence! with! the! current! situation! of! fashion! magazine! industry! –! although! the!
world1class!fashion!magazine!has!a!large!quantity,!Japanese!–!Korean!fashion!magazine!
enjoy! the! highest! circulation.! The! reason! may! be! the! large! quantity! and! similar!
positioning! of!world1class! fashion!magazines! lead! to! the! overlap! of! target! customers.!
Take!a!look!at!the!product!involvement!and!brand!recognition!together,!there!are!some!
conclusions!of!world1class!fashion!magazine:!
A. Less(readers(in(target(customers(
World1class!fashion!magazine!usually!put!the!sight!on!high1income!level!people,!or!say!
define!itself!as!the!magazine!to!teach!readers!how!to!enjoy!life.!However,!based!on!the!
analysis,!the!fashion!magazine!purchase!behavior!has!a!negative!significant!relationship!
with! monthly! income,! that! is,! the! higher! the! monthly! income,! the! fewer! fashion!
magazine!purchase.! In!other!words,! it!seems!like!world1class!fashion!magazine!do!not!
!
!!
64!
attract!its!target!customers!as!it!expect.!
B. Brand(building(need(improve(
According!to!the!score!of!brand!recognition,!although!world1class!fashion!magazine!has!
a!higher!score!on!brand!credibility,!brand!loyalty!and!word!of!mouth,!the!score!is!still!in!
neutral!level.!That!is,!for!most!fashion!magazine!readers,!the!brand!image!of!world1class!
fashion!magazine!has!little!difference!with!other!two!types!fashion!magazine.! !
In( conclude,(world1class! fashion!magazine!needs! to!rethink! its!positioning!and! target!
market!and!it!still!has!potential!market!to!develop.!At!the!same!time,!what!they!need!to!
consider!is!how!to!build!a!more!unique!brand!image!and!recognition!among!audiences!
and!to!reach!target!readers.!
! !
!
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65!
Part%5%Interview%Analysis%
1. Rationale%of%Interview%
Through! the! survey! outcome,! we! have! got! a! comprehensive! understanding! about!
Chinese!fashion!magazine!readers’!thought,!attitude!and!behavior.!In!order!to!compare!
whether! the!world1class! fashion!magazines! truly!understand! their! readers,! their! own!
opinions! are! essential.! So! conducting! an! interview! among! the! editors! from! 5!
representative!world1class!fashion!magazines!will!be!the!most!immediate!and!effective!
way!to!gain!the!information.!
According!to!the!questionnaire’s!question!setting,!we!confirm!some!relevant!questions!
in! the! interview!outline.!After! communicating!with! the! certain!editors,! the! interviews!
are!done!during!Feb!16!and!Feb!22.!
The! interview! mainly! contains! 11! questions! towards! their! views! about! magazine’s!
positioning,! target!audience,! content,! advertising,!new!media!application,!distribution,!
short1term! objective! and! some! hot! topics! in! this! industry.! All! these! questions! are!
divided!into!2!parts,!one!is!about!magazine!itself,!one!is!about!whole!industry.!
2. Brief%Introduction%of%Interviewees%
Till!now,! there!are!5!existing!world1class! fashion!magazines! in!Mainland!China,!which!
are! Elle,!Marie$ Claire,! Cosmopolitan,! Bazaar! and! Vogue.! In! this! category,! we! need! to!
choose!one!from!each!magazine,!that!is!to!say,!5!interviewees!in!total.!They!are!from!all!
kinds! of! departments! in! their! own! magazine.! The! reasons! of! choosing! these!
interviewees!are!as!below.!
!
!!
66!
First,! in! order! to! make! the! interview! outcome! accurate! and! comparable,! we! should!
ensure!at!least!one!interviewee!from!each!world1class!magazine.!
Second,! interview! questions! are! related! to! various! categories! of! a! magazine.! Few!
individuals!in!a!magazine!can!be!familiar!with!them!all,!except!for!the!high1level!staffs,!
but! they! are! usually! hard! to! be! interviewed.! Under! this! kind! of! circumstances,! the!
chosen!interviewees!should!also!from!all!positions!of!magazine!to!make!up!drawbacks.!
Third,!we!all!know!sometimes!individual!cannot!stand!for!the!whole!group,!so!interview!
outcome!will!be!compared!with!questionnaire!outcome!and!some!other!literatures.!
Due!to!time!limitation,!we!cannot!find!an!interviewee!from!Vogue,!so!we!use!their!chief!
editor! Angelica! CHEUNG’s! interview! content! for! Southern! Metropolis! Daily! as! a!
second1hand!literature!to!analyze.!
After! repeated! consideration,! choosing! and! communicating,! 4! interviewees! are!
confirmed.!Their!brief!introductions!are!described!below.!
A� Elle:(Gloria(DENG(
Feature! editor! of! Elle! China,! will! graduate! from! Hong! Kong! Baptist!
University.!Though!she!is!a!new!staff!of!Elle,!she!had!31years!part1time!
intern!experience!in!Elle!during!bachelor!time!in!Fudan!University.!
B� Marie(Claire:(Sirine(SHI(
Sales! coordinator! of!Marie$ Claire’s! Marketing! Department,! her! daily!
responsibility!is!some!advertising!issues,!such!as!communicating!with!
Marie$Claire’s!big!customers!and!selling!ads.!
!
!!
67!
C� Bazaar:(Amber(ZHAO(
Brand!&! PR! assistant! of!Harper’s$ Bazaar,!Bazaar$Men’s$ Style,!Bazaar$
Art$ and$ Bazaar$ Jewelry.! As! a! member! of! marketing! department,! her!
daily!work!is!related!to!some!market!survey!and!brand!activities.!
D� Cosmopolitan:(Luke(YU(
Fashion!editor!of!Cosmopolitan,!his!daily!responsibility!is!interviewing,!
attending! fashion! shows! and! producing! content! for! the! magazine! in!
fashion!and!clothing!area.!
E� Vogue:(Angelica(CHEUNG((SecondIhand(Literature)(
Chief!editor!of!Vogue!China,!whose!position!in!today’s!Chinese!fashion!
industry! is! irreplaceable.! Before! entering! Vogue! China,! she!was! the!
edit!director!of!Elle,!the!chief!editor!of!Marie!Clare!Hong!Kong!edition.!
!
3. Answers%Analysis%
A� Opinion(towards(Magazine(
This!part!contains!8!questions.!
a. Target%Audience%
Except! for!Cosmopolitan’s!mass! female! target,!Most!of! the! interviewees!consider! their!
magazines’! major! target! audience! should! be! the! professional! female! with! high!
education!lever!and!high!income!or!successful!female.! !
n!this!category,!the!answer!of!Elle’s!interviewee!Gloria!DENG!is!a!little!unique!with!other!
!
!!
68!
interviewees’.!She!said,!“Our!major!target!audience!is!middle1class!female!aged!from!20!
to!50,!but!sometimes!not!that!high1end,!which!means!all!kinds!of!readers!can!purchase!
our! magazine.! As! many! people! said,! fashion! magazine! is! produced! by! some! people!
earned!￥8,000!monthly,!describes!a!kind!of!life!worth!￥20!thousands!and!is!sold!to!
the!people!only!have!￥3,000!salary.”!
Even! Vogue’s! chief! editor,! Angelica! CHEUNG! said! “some! of! our! audiences! have! the!
ability! to! consume! immediately! after! reading! our!magazine,!while! the! others! are! just!
attracted!by!this!kind!of!life!style!and!cultivate!their!own!fashion!tastes,!they!may!begin!
to!buy!some!goods!gradually!after!they!have!the!consuming!ability.”!
From! the! answer,! it! is! not! difficult! to! know! that! some! of! the! world1class! magazines!
begin! to! accept! the! reality! that! in! China! market,! even! fashion! magazine’s! content! is!
about!the!high1end!life,!the!major!target!audience!are!middle1class!or!even!lower.!
b. USP%on%Content%
USP,!stands!for!Unique!Selling!Proposition,!which!is!usually!used!in!advertising!area.!It!
requires!the!advertisement!to!make!a!unique!proposition!found!from!product! itself! to!
the!customers.!(Rosser!Reeves,!1961)!In!this!category,!we!apply!it!on!content!producing.!
Many!believe,!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!have!a!trend!of!homogenization!on!the!
contents.!So!this!category!is!asked!to!find!out!whether!the!trend!is!reality!and!whether!
the!world1class! fashion!magazines! in!China!have!their!own!USP,!which!can!be!used!to!
distinguish!one!magazine!from!others.! !
All!of!the!interviewees!admit!that!there’s!a!homogenization!trend!on!the!contents,!but!
!
!!
69!
when! it! comes! to! their! own! magazines’! USP,! the! answers! from! 4! interviewees! are!
incompatible.! !
Elle’s!interviewee,!Gloria!DENG!said,!“In!fashion!and!clothing!part,!Vogue!does!a!better!
job!than!Elle,!but!Elle’s!feature!is!better.!Fashion!Magazine!is!not!all!about!makeup!and!
clothing,! attitude! is! also! very! important.! I! think! Elle! pay! more! attention! on! female’s!
inner!growth.”! !
At! the! same! time,!Marie$Claire’s! interviewee,! Sirine! SHI! said,! “There! are! indeed! some!
differences!among!these!magazines.!For!example,!Elle!will!more!focus!on!offering!latest!
female! fashion! information,! and! tell! them!how! to!dress! themselves!up!and!keep!pace!
with! the! fashion! trend.! Marie$ Claire’s! content! always! follows! the! guideline! of! its!
Vision1Think!Smart!and!Look!Amazing.!So!Marie$Claire!care!more!about!female’s!inner!
world!and!believe!only!inner!beauty!could!last!forever.!Moreover,!Marie$Claire’s!feature!
is!unique.”!
Luke!YU!from!Cosmopolitan!also!express!that!their!magazine!cares!about!female’s!inner!
world!and!lifestyle.!
Through% the% contrast,!we!discovered! that! on! one!hand! the! interviewees! think! their!
magazines’!USPs!are!paying!attention! to! female! inner!world!and! their! features,!which!
means!there’s!no!USP!at!all.!On!the!other!hand,!it!reflects!that!they!are!not!only!confused!
about!their!own!positioning,!but!also!their!competitors’.!
c. Cover%Model%
In!this!category,!different!magazine’s!editorial!policy!is!distinguished!from!each!others.!
!
!!
70!
Every!magazine!has!its!distinctive!characteristic.!
Elle! has!a!balanced! cover!policy! that! foreigners!and!Chinese!are!half! and!half,! and!an!
equal!split!is!also!ensured!between!models!and!celebrities.!The!choice!standard!should!
refer!to!whether!the!person!has!news!pretext!and!news!value.!
!Picture!4!Covers!of!Elle!and!Marie-Claire!
Marie$Claire’s!interviewee!said!they!prefer!using!foreign!celebrities!on!their!cover!page!
more,!because!they!think!foreign!celebrities!are!more!attractive!and!eyes!catching.!And!
their! choice! standard! is! very! simple! that! it! should! be! a!wise! female!who! is! beautiful!
inside!and!out,!and!is!successful!in!her!own!field.!But!from!their!2011!covers,!we!could!
see!that!most!cover!models!are!also!Chinese!and!males!also!appeared!for!twice.!
! ! ! ! ! !Picture!5!Covers!of!Harper's!Bazaar!and!Cosmopolitan!
!
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Bazaar!and!Cosmopolitan’s!cover!pages!have!a!quite!similar!situation!with!Marie$Claire.!
Chinese!celebrities,!especially!Chinese!female!movie!stars,!occupy!nearly!all!year!round!
covers.! As! Bazaar’s! interviewee! Amber! ZHAO! said,! they! seldom! use! model! on! their!
cover!pages.!There!are!also!some!issues!that!a!female!celebrity!will!appear!on!the!cover!
with!the!company!of!a!male!celebrity.!
!
Picture!6!Covers!of!Vogue!China!
Among! the! 5! world1class! fashion! magazines,! Vogue! used! most! foreigners! as! cover!
model!and!the!interviewee!said!they!prefer!model!to!celebrity,!which!is!because!super!
models! can! present! their! pursuit! of! beauty! and! art! better.! This! special! taste! can! be!
proved!vividly!with!the!picture!above.!
In% short,% even! though! there’re! some! diversity! among! the! magazines,! most! of! the!
world1class! fashion! magazines! in! China! have! already! realize! the! importance! of!
localization!and!keep!trying!to!reach!a!favorable!outcome.!But!it!is!confirmed!that!most!
cover!models!are!still!female!and!must!be!celebrities.!
d. Topic%Selection%
When!it!comes!to!the!category!of!topic!selection,!all!of!the!4!interviewees’!opinions!are!
!
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consistent.! They! said,! Chinese! local! editors! finish! the!majority! of! the! contents,! only! a!
few! percentages! contents! are! pick1up! from! other! nation’s! version,! due! to! some!
copyright!problem!and!content!import!problem.!
On!the!selection!process,!it!can!be!divided!into!2!kinds.!One!is!top1down!model,!like!Elle.!
The!big!topics!are!often!selected!by!the!boss.!The!other!is!bottom!up!model,!like!Marie$
Claire! and! Cosmopolitan.! Topics! are! come! up! by! the! editors,! then! reported! to! their!
superiors,!and!decided!finally!by!the!chief!editor.!
Of!course,!during!the!topic!selection!process,!the!communication!between!editors!and!a!
variety!of!top!brands!is!necessary.!Amber!ZHAO!told!us!that,!every!brand!has!its!main!
new! products! in! every! season;! editors! just! pick! what! they! want! among! brands’!
recommendations!
e. Advertising%
As!we!all!known,!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!mainly!run!with!the!advertising!
income.! In!a!word,!advertising! is! fashion!magazine’s! lifeline.!The!advertising!policy!of!
the!magazines!is!also!an!important!aspect!which!can!reflect!magazine’s!personality.!
According!to!Sirine!SHI’s!words,!Marie$Claire!usually!chooses!some!international!brands,!
and! the! larger! the! brand! is,! the! more! previous! page! the! advertising! will! be! post.!
Cosmopolitan,!Bazaar!and!Vogue!have!a!similar!situation.!
Elle!will!be!more! flexible! in! this! category.! “Every! issue!we!will! communicate!with! the!
advertisers,! once! the! brand! reaches! certain! level,! there’s! no! certain! tendency! on!
choosing!the!products!and!it!does!not!have!to!be!female!brand.”!(Gloria!DENG)!
!
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To%sum%up,!Chinese!world1class!fashion!magazines!still!tend!to!post!top!luxury!brands’!
advertising.!
f. Distribution%
There’s!an!extreme!saying!that,!sometimes!whether!a!magazine!could!be!successful,!it!is!
decided!by!its!distribution!rather!than!the!content,!but!that’s!true!in!some!way.!Without!
the! distribution,! the! magazine! cannot! reach! their! audiences! effectively,! which! will!
totally! influence! their! advertising! sales.! Recent! years! in! China,! the! development! gap!
between!eastern!and!western!is!growing!significantly.!Through!this!category,!we’d!like!
to! find! out! whether! the! distribution! of! world1class! fashion! magazines! is! balanced!
between!eastern!and!western!area.!
All! of! the! interviewees! are! confident! about! their! publish! covering! in!mainland!China,!
they! said,! not! only! big! cities! can! find! their!magazines,! but! also! some! second1tier! and!
third1tier!cities!
From!the!answers,!we!could!know!that!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!in!China!are!
quite! satisfied! with! the! current! situation! of! their! distribution! and! publish! covering.!
Except!Bazaar!going!to!develop!their!second1tier!and!third1tier!cities!market!this!year,!
other!magazines!don’t!have!a!further!plan!on!developing!the!markets.!
g. New%Media%Application%
The!rise!of!new!media!has!been!years,!with!new!media!reader,!like!iPad,!Kindle!and!so!
on,!now!it!has!been!applied!to!the!fashion!magazine!industry!which!is!becoming!more!
and!more!popular.! !
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! ! !Picture!7!EQFashion!Magazine!
This!category!is!going!to!explore!whether!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!in!China!
market!have!realized!the!new!media!age!is!coming!and!made!full!use!of!this!new!type!of!
media!platform.!
According!to!the!answers,!a!conclusion!can!be!acknowledged!that!all!interviewees!agree!
about!the!new!media!trend!in!fashion!magazine!industry,!the!new!media!will!make!the!
content!presented! in!a!more!vivid!way!and!they!believe! it! is!a!convenient!channel! for!
the!readers!to!achieve!the!content!from!magazine.!
Of! course,! the! editors! also! show! their! worries! towards! this! platform,! because! new!
media!version!may!take!some!readers!away!from!their!traditional!version.!What’s!more,!
customers!may! prefer! free! electronic!magazine! to! one1charge! fees.! Once! it! begins! to!
charge,! the! customers! will! be! lost.! For! this,! Gloria! DENG’s! words! make! us! feel!
interested,!”Most!people!in!China!prefer!free!version,!if!you!want!to!get!them!pay,!you!
have! to! come! up! with! something! more! attractive,! such! as! some! special! features! or!
pictures!different!from!the!magazine!on!real!live!paper.”!
To%conclude,!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!in!China!market!can!see!both!sides!of!
the!coin,!towards!the!new!media!platform,!but!tend!to!be!conservative.!
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h. ShortGterm%Objective%
According!to!the!interviewees’!answers!of!their!2012!wishes,!the!short1term!objectives!
of!each!magazine!can!be!reflected.!
1 Elle:% Increase! the! market! share! and! advertising! income! with! the! semi1monthly!
strategy.%
1 Marie(Claire:%To!celebrate!the!10!years!anniversary!of!Chinese!version.%
1 Cosmopolitan:% Increase!the!content!quality!of!double!issue!and!the!artistic!quality.!
Innovate!on!the!basis!of!Cosmo!Sprit.%
1 Vogue:%Reach!a!balance!between!Globalization!and!Localization.%
1 Harper’s( Bazaar:% This! year’s! main! objective! is! to! develop! the! second1tier! and!
third1tier!cities’!market!and!continue!to!contribute!to!Chinese!fashion!industry!that!
cultivate!more!local!designer,!model!and!photographer.%
B� Opinion(towards(Whole(Industry(
This!part!contains!3!questions.!
a. Attitude%towards%Other%Type%of%Magazine%
As!we!mentioned!in!the!Questionnaire!Analysis!part,!based!on!the!content,!background!
and!style,!we!divide!the!whole!Chinese!fashion!magazine!market!into!three!categories,!
including!World1Class,!Japanese1Korean!and!Domestic.!
In! this! category,! we’d! like! to! know! what! the! interviewees’! attitude! are,! towards! its!
competitors,! other! two! types! of! magazine,! especially! the! domestic! fashion! magazine!
which! take! a! cheap! route,! such! as!Femina! and!Shanghai$ Style.! Towards! this! problem,!
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interviewees!have!different!viewpoints.! !
Elle’s! interviewee!thinks!this!type!of!magazine!could!have!a!great!readership.!Without!
too!much!advertising,!it!contains!a!lot!of!information.!But!it!cannot!plan!the!features!like!
Elle;!most!of!the!contents!are!not!that!beneficial!and!helpful,!like!some!gossips.!
Sirine!SHI!from!Marie$Claire!holds!the!view!that!those!fashion!magazines!with!low!price!
often! have! a! limited! publish! covering,! they! only! distributed! among! certain! area.! The!
information!it!contained!will!be!less,!due!to!the!less!pages!in!every!issue.!She!said,!“It!is!
a!good!choice!for!people!to!read!on!their!journey.”!This!sentence!means!she!thinks!the!
low1price!fashion!magazine!has!limited!reading!value!that!it’s!a!kind!of!one1off!reading.! !
Except! for! some! small! disaccord,! nearly! all! interviewees! do! not! think! the! low1price!
fashion! magazine! will! be! a! great! threat! for! the! world1class! fashion! magazines! in!
Mainland!China.!
Moreover,! Vogue’s! chief! editor! Angelica! CHEUNG! comments! from! fashion! aspect! in!
Southern!Metropolis!Daily!interview,!“The!Japanese1Korean!fashion!magazines!are!only!
entry!level.”!
In% short,! all! of! the! world1class! magazines! think! themselves! cannot! be! replaced! by!
Japanese1Korean!fashion!magazines.!
b. SemiGmonthly%Issue%
During!2012!Paris!Fashion!Week!on!March!6,!a!China!Fashion!Night!took!place!in!Paris,!
on!which!a!big!decision!of!Elle!China!was!declared.!Elle!China!had!just!become!Elle!first!
semi1monthly!publication!all!over!the!world.!
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!Picture!8!Elle!Semimonthly!Issue!
For! this! issue,! Elle’s! editor! Gloria! DENG! gave! us! the! explanation! that! it! is! in!
consideration!of!market!share!gaining!and!selling!more!advertising.! !
She!said,!“Before!this,!in!2009,!Elle!has!tried!double!issue!for!once.!A!issue!and!B!issue!
had! different! positioning! and! different! content.! A! issue! was! the! former!Elle,! while! B!
issue!had!a!younger!positioning.!Unfortunately,! this! trial!was!not!successful! that!even!
celebrities!prefer! to!be!photographed! for! an!A! issue! cover,! rather! than!a!B! issue!one.!
Moreover,!the!advertising!price!of!B!issue!was!much!cheaper!than!the!A!issue.!”!
Thus,! now!with! the! same! positioning,! the! content! volume! is! doubled,! the! total! price!
monthly! is! still! the! same.! Elle! use! this! strategy! to! attract! more! audiences! and! more!
advertising.!But!the!price!they!have!to!pay!is!increasing!labor!cost!that!“We!are!hiring!
more!editors!to!handle!increased!workload.”!(Gloria!DENG)!
Of! course,! it! may! also! have! some! disadvantage.! According! to! the! viewpoint! of!
Cosmopolitan’s!editor!Luke!YU,!although!it!meets!people’s!need!in!high!pace!life!and!this!
!
!
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TMI!age!(Bertram!Gross,!1964),!it!is!difficult!for!Elle!to!keep!high!content!quality.!
! ! ! !Picture!9!Double!Issue!of!Cosmopolitan!and!Harper's-Bazaar!
Other! 4! world1class! fashion! magazines! have! different! responds! to! this! action.!
Cosmopolitan,!Bazaar!and!Vogue!apply!the!double!issue!strategy!or!supplementary!issue!
strategy,!which! enriches! the! content,! to! compete!with!Elle,!while!Marie$ Claire! had!no!
response!that!they!think!their!strategy!should!be!independent,!as!Sirine!SHI!said!“Every!
magazine!has!its!own!marketing!strategy,!there’s!no!need!for!Marie$Claire!to!change!for!
others.”!
Thus! it! can! be! seen! that! Elle’s! semi1monthly! strategy! has! a! great! influence! on! its!
competitors.!And!the!competition!of!Chinese!fashion!magazine!industry,!of!this!market!
segment,!gets!more!and!more!intense.!
c. Male%Fashion%Magazine%Market%
No!one!deny!that!the!male!fashion!magazine!market!is!a!big!cake,!and!the!interviewees!
have!a!number!of!opinions!towards!this!issue.!
Marie$Claire’s!Sirine!SHI!believes!it’s!an!unstoppable!trend.!Elle’s!Gloria!DENG!considers!
it’s!easier!for!male!fashion!magazine!to!come!up!creative!and!special!features,!and!it!is!
getting!more! and!more!mature! after! a! series! of! failures.!Cosmopolitan’s! Luke! YU! and!
Bazaar’s! Amber! ZHAO! hold! a! rational! view! that,! both! of! them! think! a! development!
!
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model!for!male!fashion!magazine,!which!is!suitable!for!Chinese!national!conditions,!still!
need!to!be!explored.!
To% sum%up,!Chinese!male! fashion!magazine!market!begins! to! launch,!and! it! still!have!
plenty!of!potential!waiting!to!be!developed.!
C� Inference(
According!to!the!analysis!above,!we!could!summarize!the!business!level!strategy!of!each!
magazine!as!it!shows!in!the!Table!28.!
Magazine% Business%Level%Strategy%
Elle% Cost!Leadership!Focus!Strategy!
Marie%Claire% Cost!Leadership!Focus!Strategy!
Cosmopolitan% Cost!Leadership!Strategy!
Vogue% Differentiation!Focus!Strategy!
Bazaar% Focus!Strategy!
Table!28!Business!Level!Strategy!of!World1class!Fashion!Magazines!in!China!
4. Comparison%with%Questionnaire%Result%
Compared! with! the! questionnaire! result,! we! discover! that! there! exists! a! great!
divarication!between!magazine!editors’!opinion!and!ordinary!audiences’.!Let!us!take!a!
look!at!what!existing!problems!are.!
A. Fashion(does(not(belong(to(the(minority(
As! it! mentioned! in! the! questionnaire! result,! there! is! no! signification! relationship!
between!age,!education!level!and!occupation!with!fashion!magazine!purchase!behavior.!
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Fashion!is!becoming!a!common!topic!and!attracts!more!and!more!people’s!attention.!
Differ!from!the!result,!the!interview!outcome!tell!us!that!most!editors’!fashion!value!is!
still! traditional! and! out! of! date.! They! confine! the! world1class! fashion! magazine’s!
positioning! and! target! audience! group! within! certain! thinking! pattern,! which! makes!
them!ignore!the!potential!markets.!
B. High(income(does(not(mean(high(purchase(frequency(
Based! on! Table! 14,! it! is! so! clear! that! the! fashion!magazine! purchase! behavior! has! a!
negative! significant! relationship! with! monthly! income.! On! one! hand,! the! surprise!
discovery! reflects! world1class! fashion! magazines’! misunderstanding! towards! their!
target!audiences,!on!the!other!hand,!it!could!be!a!bad!news!for!their!advertising!selling.!
C. Area(differences(exist(on(fashion(magazine(distribution,(but(often(be(ignored(
It! can! be! learned! from! the! questionnaire! result! that! fashion! magazine! purchase!
behaviors!are!quite!different!between!different!areas.!
From!the!interview,!little!information!in!this!category!was!got.!Interviewees!themselves!
do!not!have!a!clear!idea!about!the!magazine’s!area1imbalanced!distribution.!
D. Cover(model(can(not(be(limited(to(fashion(model(and(stars(
When! it! refers! to! cover!model,! interviewees’! answers! are! nothing!more! than! female!
models! and! celebrities,! especially! movie! stars.! This! just! illustrate! that! editors! of!
world1class! fashion!magazines! haven’t! know! audiences’! taste!well.! Special! celebrities!
and!some!males!are!also!welcomed!by!the!mass!on!fashion!magazine’s!cover!page.! !
Meanwhile,! the! result! of! the! high! frequency! purchase! fashion! magazine! shows! the!
!
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consistence! with! the! current! situation! of! fashion! magazine! industry! –! although! the!
world1class!fashion!magazine!has!a!large!quantity,!Japanese!–!Korean!fashion!magazine!
enjoy! the! highest! circulation.! The! reason! may! be! the! large! quantity! and! similar!
positioning!of!world1class!fashion!magazines!lead!to!the!overlap!of!target!customers.! !
Take!a!look!at!the!product!involvement!and!brand!recognition!together,!there!are!some!
conclusion!of!world1class!fashion!magazine.!
D. Brand(building(need(improve(
Even!though!every!world1class!fashion!magazine!claims!that!they!are!unique!from!other!
magazines,! their! audiences! feel! difficult! to! distinguish! its! brand! image! from!
Japanese1Korean! fashion! magazine! and! Domestic! fashion! magazine.! Even! within!
themselves,!the!distinctiveness!of!their!brand!images!is!little.! !
On% the% contrary,! there!certainly!have!some!uniform!parts!between!the!questionnaire!
result! and! the! interview! result.! The! interviewees! also! agree! on! the! importance! of!
artistic!design,!the!potentially!of!male!fashion!magazine!market!and!the!main!purchase!
power!of!fashion!magazine!is!still!the!female.!
5. Possible%Reasons%of%Existing%Problem%
The!possible!reasons!of!existing!problem!may!be!concluded!in!one!sentence.!
Advertising(is(the(root(of(evil(
Why! almost! every! world1class! magazines! claim! that! their! target! audience! group! is!
high1income,!high1education!group?!Why!they!cannot!get!a!clear!view!about!their!target!
audience’s!features?!Are!they!really!not!familiar!with!the!current!situation?! !
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As!far!as!we!are!concerned,!the!main!reason!is!for!more!and!higher!quality’s!advertising.!
The!magazine!has!to!sell!advertising!to!some!high1end!brands!whose!target!customers!
have! a! high! income! and! are! well! educated,! so! if! the! magazine’s! readership! and! the!
brand’s!target!customer!group!are!overlap,! it!could!make!the!brand!advertiser!believe!
the!ads!are!effective,!so!that!sell!more!advertisings.!
Because!the!world1class!fashion!magazine’s!main!income!is!from!advertising!which!has!
already!been!mentioned!in!the!Part!3.!The!world1class!fashion!magazines!always!follow!
a!principle! that!Adverting% always% comes% first,% and% then% come% the% audiences.% Just!
due!to!this!misunderstanding,!they!pay!little!attention!to!audiences’! favor!and!feature.!
Thus!they!won’t!do!the!following!things.!
a. Lack%of%Market%Research%
Since!the!ignorance!of!audience,!the!magazine!will!not!do!market!research!in!order!to!
adjust! their! style,! policy! and! strategy.! Even! they! did,! the! outcome! is! not! favorable.!
Editors! select! the! topics! out! of! their! own!preference,!without! objective! and! scientific!
evidence.!It!could!be!a!possible!reason!of!the!existing!problem.!
b. Lack%of%USP%
Similar!brand! image! is!a!problem!for! the!world1class! fashion!magazines.!The!result!of!
questionnaire!and!interview!prove!that!the!magazines’!differentiation!is!not!successful.!
They!haven’t!found!their!true!USP,!and!they!don’t!know!and!even!do!not!want!to!know!
their!competitor’s!strategy!and!latest!change.!That! is!why!all! interviewee!told!us!their!
magazine’s!USP!is!exploring!the!inner!world!of!female.!So!how!can!audiences!hold!clear!
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views!towards!different!fashion!magazines,!when!the!editors’!impression!is!fuzzy.!
c. Lack%of%Effective%Brand%Loyalty%Building%
Instead!of!brand!loyalty!building,!the!world1class!fashion!magazines!are!more!willing!to!
have!social!activities!with!the!celebrities,!stars!and!super!models.!
Once!the!magazine!does!not!care!about!audience,!only!strive!for!advertising;!the!content!
of! magazine! will! be! unimpressive! and! ordinary.! In! other! words,! they! lose! the!
competitiveness! for! customers’! brand! loyalty.! Maybe! that! is! the! reason! why! their!
purchase!frequency!performs!worse!than!Japanese1Korean!fashion!magazines!and!why!
their!cover!model!selection!cannot!suit!the!public!taste.% %
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Part%6%Conclusion%
1. Special%Findings%
Through! the! whole! analysis! process,! we! have! some! interesting! and! special! finding!
towards!fashion!magazine!industry.!We!think!these!findings!may!be!helpful!to!answer!
our!questions!about!current!situation!of!world1class!fashion!magazine.!
A. Sales(may(not(be(the(main(income(resource(
With!a!high!printing!cost!on!color1page!and!large!mounts!of!pages,!the!profit!of!fashion!
magazine! is! relatively! low.! Usually,! for!most!world1class! fashion!magazine,! pricing! at!
¥20!cannot!cover!the!costs.!However,!it!seems!like!the!high!cost!and!diminishing!trend!
on!sales!volume!didn’t!worry!these!world1class!fashion!magazines.! !
Opening! any! fashion!magazine,! luxury! brands’! advertisements! usually! the! first! jump!
into! sight! such! as! Louis! Vuitton,! Cartier,! Gucci,! Hermes,! etc.! These! brands!
advertisements! stand! the!most! expensive! position! in!magazine.! As! previous! analysis,! !
the!advertisement! income! is!mainly!come!from!these! luxury!brands!–! indeed,!most!of!
worldwide!luxury!brands!belongs!to!these!four!enterprise:!LV!Group,!Gucci,!Hermes!and!
Richmond.!Especially!LV,!with!58!luxury!brands!under!the!group,!it!handles!the!luxury!
industry,! and! also,! it! stands! a! considerable! proportion! of! the! advertisement! page! in!
fashion!magazines.!They!are!constant!cooperators!with!fashion!magazines!–!they!need!a!
famous! and! authorized! third! party! to! promote! their! products.! Since! most! luxury!
products! are! related! to! fashion! such! as! handbags,! skin! care,! make! up,! etc.! Fashion!
magazine! become! the! first! choice! to! launch! advertisement.! Actually,! before! the!
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disappearance! of! printing! media,! fashion! magazine! will! live! depends! on! the! stable!
relationship!with!luxury!brands!with!less!concern!about!sales!volume.!In!other!words,!
luxury!brands!are!real!customers!for!fashion!magazine!–!once!these!luxury!brands!are!
alive,! they! will! advertise! on! these! magazines.! The! continuous! advertising! income!
becomes!the!main!source!to!support!fashion!magazine.!
B. Circulation(may(not(be(the(primary(consideration.(
The!higher!score!in!brand!recognition!prove!that!world1class!fashion!magazines!have!a!
good! brand! reputation.! Currently,! it! seems! like!world1class! fashion!magazine! spends!
more!efforts!on!image!building!rather!than!circulation.!That!may!be!the!reasons!that!the!
contents!of! these! fashion!magazines!are! regarded!as! low!sincere!since! they!pay!more!
attention! on! luxury! brands/fashion! introduction! and! accept! luxury! brands!
advertisements!that!may!make!current!readers!have!the!sense!of!distance.!
2. Conclusion%
Based!on!all!of!the!analysis!above,!we!draw!a!conclusion.! !
It!has!been!more!than!20!years!since!the!first!world1class!fashion!magazine!Elle!entered!
Chinese!market! in! 1988.!The!world1class! fashion!magazines! are!highly! recognized!by!
Chinese!audiences!now,!but!audiences! think! they!are! less! friendly.!And!since! they!are!
run!mainly!depends!on! the!advertising,! especially!high1end! luxury!brand,! they!do!not!
care!the!circulations!which!perform!worse!than!the!Japanese1Korea!fashion!magazines’!
ones.!What’s!more!embarrassing,!the!purchase!frequency!of!high1income!female,!which!
is!world1class!fashion!magazine’s!major!target!audience,!is!quite!limited.!There!is!a!big!
!
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86!
gap!between!editor’s!view!and!audience’s!taste!and!feature%
3. Suggestion%for%Future%Operation%
After!reaching!a!conclusion!of!analysis!parts,!in!order!to!make!project!more!meaningful!
and! constructive,! we’d! like! to! give! some! suggestions! to! current! existing! world1class!
fashion!magazines!in!China!market,!which!could!be!useful!for!their!future!operation.!
A. Topic(Selection(Based(on(Market(Research(
With! the!market! research,! the! editors! can! have! a! clear! view! about!what! their! target!
audience!is!interested!in,!which!will!direct!them!to!select!topics.! !
B. Make(the(Content(More(Practical(
Add!more! contents!which! are! practical,! like! how! to! finish! a!make1up,! or! the! clothing!
matching.!What’s! more,! most! of! world1class! fashion!magazine’s! photographs! are! too!
artistic!and!have!distance!with!audiences’!daily!life.!So!when!taking!photos,!some!daily!
life!scenes!can!be!chosen.(
C. Brand(Loyalty(Building(
To!increase!audiences’!purchase!frequency,!brand!loyalty!system!be!built!up.!That!is,!try!
to!build!competitive!advantage!to!make!readers!feel!the!difference!of!the!magazine.(
D. Adjust(the(Income(Structure(
Although! advertisement! income! is! the! main! income! source! of! magazine,! the! clutter!
advertising!may!bring!negative!influence!on!magazine.!Thus,!the!magazine!may!need!to!
adjust!the!income!structure!and!reconsider!the!percentages!of!advertising!income!and!
the!income!of!circulation.(
!
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87!
E. Make(the(Distribution(Cover(More(SecondItier(&(ThirdItier(Cities.(
Recruit! more! distribute! agency! in! more! second1tier! and! third1tier! cities.! Moreover,!
selling!electronic!magazines!through!the!Internet!is!also!a!good!choice,!not!only!save!the!
transportation! expense! and! labor! cost,! but! also! save! the! papers! and! protect! the!
environment,!and!the!area!limitation!can!be!ignored!through!this!method.!
F. Open(an(Online(Store(
Actually,! opening! an! online! store! can! solve! some! distribution! problems,! and! it! can!
create!a!new!way!to!gain!income!that!the!online!store!not!only!sell!their!own!magazines,!
but!also!some!other!related!fashion!goods,!with!their!current!resources.!
For( the( suggestions( above,! we! found! there! were! similar! opinions! held! by! some!
scholars!in!past!journals!when!reviewing!the!reference.! !
Lauren!R.!Bailey!and!Yoo1Kyoung!Seock!also!think!that!contents!should!be!the!center!of!
fashion! magazine! and! magazines! should! pay! more! attention! on! how! to! increase! the!
attraction!of!content!in!their!2010!journal.! !
As!early!as!1997,!Ha!Louisa!and!Litman!Barry!R.!had!already!done!relative!research!on!
the! relationship!between!magazines!and!advertisement!and!conclude! that!advertising!
clutters!have!diminishing!return.! !
Besides,! for! the! popularity! of! Japanese1Korean! fashion! magazine,! Li! Dong! Xin,! Lee!
Yong1Ki! and!Griffin!Mitch! (2011)!have! similar!opinion!with!us! that! is! the!world1class!
fashion!magazines!should!maintain!their!own!characteristics.!And!Laughlin!John!D!and!
MacDonald! Jason!B! give! similar! suggestion! to! fashion!magazines! for! the! use! of! social!
!
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88!
media!and!E1magazine!in!their!2010!journal.!
4. Recommendations%of%Future%Entrants%
World1class!fashion!magazines!are!more!than!5!in!the!world!that!there!are!still!a!lot!of!
fashion! magazines! may! enter! China! market! in! the! future.! With! the! following!
recommendations,!they!could!have!a!better!performance.!
A. Positioning(is(the(first(pace(of(your(success.(
Use!the!Blue!Sea!Strategy!to!find!a!suitable!and!unique!positioning!could!be!a!good!start!
for!your!magazine.! (
B. Localization(is(essential.(
“Think!global,!act!local.”!is!a!vital!principle!of!the!new!entrants!who’d!like!to!enter!the!
Chinese!fashion!magazine!industry.!The!current!players!did!a!good!job!in!this!part,!so!if!
you!cannot!localize!well,!you!will!fall!behind!them.(
C. Distribution(innovation(could(help(you(build(up(more(general(covering.(
Find! some! more! convenient! way! of! magazine! purchasing,! like! vending! machine! or!
online!platform.!
D. Strong(practical(applicability(is(welcomed(by(Chinese(audiences(
This! is! most! suitable! pattern! for! current! Chinese! situation.! And! strong! practical!
applicability!does!not!mean!to!lose!your!own!style!and!become!another!Japanese1Korea!
fashion!magazine.!For!example,!you!can!keep!your!western!style!and!have!some!more!
content!which!tell!people!how!to!dress!up!in!the!western!style.!
For% the% recommendation% above,% the! coincidence! is,! Li! Dong! Xin,! Lee! Yong1Ki! and!
!
!!
89!
Griffin!Mitch!(2011)!held!similar!opinion!with!us!again!–! that! is,!new!entrants!should!
pay!more!attention!on!market!positioning!and!localization%
5. Limitation%
Honestly!speaking,!there!are!some!limitation!exist!for!this!project.!Especially!in!primary!
research!part.!
First,! due! to! time! limitation,! we! can! only! choose! the!most! efficient!method! –! online!
survey!to!conduct!the!questionnaire!research.!That!is,!we!don’t!have!much!opportunity!
to! communicate! with! our! respondents! directly! to! realize! their! opinions! towards!
particular! questions.!Meanwhile,! this! form! of! questionnaire! excludes! the! people!who!
are! not! use! Internet! frequently.! Besides,! since! most! respondents! are! come! from! our!
interpersonal! network! and! at! the! same! age! with! us.! This! may! lead! to! the! result! of!
questionnaire!lack!representativeness!for!the!whole!readership!of!fashion!magazine.!
Second,!due! to! the! lime! limitation,!only! four!editors! from!the! five!world1class! fashion!
magazine!were!interviewed!and!most!of!them!receive!the!interview!via!e1mail.!Lack!of!
direct!communication!may!make!us!cannot!realize!their!opinion!exactly.!
Third,% the!perishability!of!SWOT!analysis;!since!the!external!market!environment!and!
internal!operation!environment!will!change!all! the! time,!SWOT!analysis!can!only!base!
on!current!performance!and!may!not!suitable!for!future!consultant.!
! !
!
!!
90!
Reference%
1) Kavita! Karan! and! Yang! Feng(2009),! International! women’s! magazines! in! China:!
Global!and!local!perspective!
2) Li,! Dong1Xin;! Lee,! Dong! Il;! Lee,! Yong1Ki;! Griffin,! Mitch.! (2011),! Can!We! Establish!
Consumer! Cultural! Positioning! Through! Print! Advertising! in! the! Developing!
Markets?!A!Content!Analysis!of!Advertising!in!Chinese!Women's!Magazines;!Seoul! !
Journal!of!Business17.!1!(Jun!2011):!1551182.!
3) Laughlin,!John!D;!MacDonald,!Jason!B.!(2010),!Identifying!Market!Mavens!Online!by!
Their! Social! Behaviors! in! Community1Generated! Media,! Academy! of! Marketing!
Studies!Journal14.!1!(2010):!55170.!
4) Lauren!R.!Bailey,!Yoo1Kyoung!Seock,!(2010),!The!relationships!of!fashion!leadership,!
fashion!magazine!content!and! loyalty! tendency,! Journal!of!Fashion!Marketing!and!
Management,!Vol.!14!Iss:!1,!39!–!57!
5) Ha,!Louisa;!Litman,!Barry!R.(1997)�Does!advertising!clutter!have!diminishing!and!
negative!returns?,!Journal!of!Advertising26.!1!(Spring!1997):!31142.!
6) Huashang!Press!(2008),!Nvxing!Shishang!Qikan!Shichang!Yanjiu!Baogao![Marketing!
Research!Report!on!Female!Fashion!Magazine]!
7) Anonymous!(2007),!Zhongguo!Shishang!Zazhi!De!Fazhan!Lishi! Ji!Hengxiang!Bijiao!
[Indeep!Fashion:!The!Development!History!and!Horizontal!Comparison!of!Chinese!
Fashion!Magazine],! !
http://www.china.com.cn/info/txt/2007b05/21/content_8284501.htm$ !
!
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8) Keller,! Kevin! Lane! (Jan! 1993),! Conceptualizing,! Measuring,! and! Managing!
Customer1Based!Brand!Equity,!Journal!of!Marketing!57.1! !
9) Zaichkowsky,! Judith! Lynee! (Dec! 1994),! The! personal! involvement! inventory:!
reduction,!revision!and!application!
10) Michaelidou,! Nina! and! Dibb,! Sally! (2008).! Consumer! involvement:! a! new!
perspective.!Marketing!Re1!view,!8(1),!pp.!83–99.!
11) Wen,! J.,! &! Fang,! Y.! (2003,! October! 9).! Yangzazhi! “Zhongwenban”! kouzi! weikai:!
Banquan!hezuo!jiangbei!guifan![Chinese!editions!of!international!magazines!are!not!
allowed,!international!cooperation!will!be!limited!to!the!criteria],!Jingji!Cankao!Bao!
[Economics!Reference!Newspaper]![Electronic!version].!Retrieved!October!20,!2007,!
http://www.people.com.cn/GB/14677/14737/22036/2128805.html.! !
12) Huang!Xian,! (2009).!Gaoduan!Nvxing!Zazhi!Yingxiao!Tanxi! [Marketing!Analysis!of!
High1end!fashion!magazines]!
http://www.51qikan.com/wxlw/7437_4.html!
13) Shirong!Ruixing,! (2010).!Guowai! Shishang!Zazhi!Bentuhua!Tujing!Fenxi! [Methods!
analysis!of! the!Localization!of!Foreign!Fashion!Magazines],!Market!Modernization,!
12,!24125.!
14) Deniz!ATIK,!(2007).!Consumer!Experiences!with!Fashion!Magazine!Images,!Review!
of!Social,!Economic!&!Business!Studies,!Vol.7/8,!59170.! !
15) Daniel! Delis! Hill,! (2004).! As! seen! in! Vogue:! a! century! of! American! fashion! in!
advertising,!Lubbock!:!Texas!Tech!University!Press,!c2004!
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92!
16) Yan!Xihong,! (2005).! Development! of! the! domestic! fashion!magazine!Analysis! and!
design!planning,!Tianjin!Polytechnic!University!
17) Zhao! Jingwen,! (2005).! Shishang! Zazhi! De! Minglichang! [Vanity! Fair! of! Fashion!
Magazines.]! !
http://www.ewen.cc/qikan/bkview.asp?bkid=92109&cid=245781$
18) Multinational! Advertising! Campaigns! as! Intercultural! Communication:! Successes!
and!Blunders!in!Mainland!China!
19) Sammye! Johnson,! &! Patricia! Prijatel! (2006),! The!Magazine! From! Cover! to! Cover:!
Inside!A!Dynamic!Industry!
20) Tian! Ke! &! Cui! Jianghong! (2011),! Advertisement! of! Magazine! and! Newspaper! in!
China!“2010!Checklist!of!Chinese!Magazine!Publishing”!
http://www.chinesebk.com/Article/huawen/shuju/201101/13983.html$ $
21) Cai!Qi!&!Liu!Weihong!(2009),!Research!on!the!Cultural!of!Fashion!Magazine!
22) Semimonitor! Org.(2005),! Zhongguo! Shichang! Yu! Meiti! Yanjiu! [Study! on! Chinese!
Marker!and!Media]!
23) Shawcross! William! (1997).! Murdoch:! the! making! of! a! media! empire.! New! York:!
Simon!and!Schuster!
24) Mike!King!(27th!April!2010),!JB!Hi1Fi!Limited:!SWOT!Analysis!&!Company!Profile!1!
new!market!report!released! !
http://www.prbinside.com/jbbhibfiblimitedbswotbanalysisbr1857513.htm$ $
!
!!
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25) Zhang!Yonggang!&!Zhai!Shuqing,!(2011).!Shechipin!Qiye!Zai!Zhongguo!De!Meijie!Ce!
lue![The!Media!Strategies!of!Luxury!Brand!in!China.]! ! !
http://info.huicong.com/2011/10/281122166772.shtml!
26) Xuemei! Bian,! Luiz! Moutinho(Mar,! 2008),! The! Role! of! Product! Involvement,!
Knowledge,! and! Perceptions! in! Explaining! Consumer! Purchase! Behaviour! of!
Counterfeits:!Direct!and!Indirect!Effects!
27) Nielsen!Report!(2010),!Chinese!Women!Today:!Confident,!Independent!and!a!Major!
Economic!Force!
28) Shi! Rong! Rui! Xing! (2007),! The! Localization! of! Foreign! Fashion!Magazine! –! Take!
Vogue!as!an!Example!
29) Government!Information!Office,!Republic!of!China!(Taiwan)!(2006),!2005!Survey!of!
Magazine!Publishing!Industry!in!Taiwan!
30) Gerry! Johnson&! Kevan! Scholes&! Richard! Whittington,! “Exploring! Corporate!
Strategy”!Strategic!Directions1!Chapter!7!pg.2561!270(Alternatives)!Prentice!Hall.!
31) Chia!Color!Printing:!http://www.ccolor.net/!
32) William!G.!Zikmund!and!Barry!J.!Babin,!EXPLORING!MARKETING!RESEARCH,!10th!
Edition,!South!Western,!ISBN113:!9780324788617!
% %
!
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94!
Appendix%
A. Questionnaire%
1 Online%questionnaire%link:%http://www.sojump.com/jq/1271985.aspx% %
1 Printed%questionnaire:%
%
%
Fashion Magazine
UB�q: 9�
!!!!!!!%%%%%%%%" i��0�)"zS�������������������� ��������
�
1! õƁñe�/!Gender:!A.Ż/Male! ! ! ! ! B./Female!!2õƁÛɊ�/How!old!are!you?!A.20Ŋ{9�/Under!20! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! B.21Ŋ130Ŋ/21~30!years!old!C.31Ŋ140Ŋ/31~40!years!old! ! ! ! ! ! D.41Ŋ{9�/Above!41!
õ®�ÿNĨɄŠŝįªµ±4ƘųÃŁƁµŶ�Ň�ȌǍ�<ıȥĩ
ÈȮǠ(ĩÈQÞƮ»)ƁǤĿ�v�ǢȒȣ�Ù菉�vǨǨõƁȘ�õā¤¾ƁǺĜÂ�ŸğµǎƉƒ"��ǐZȡ!!
Hello!!We!are!master!student!major! in!Media!Management! from!Hong!Kong! Baptist! University;! we! are! presently! doing! a! research! about!fashion! magazines.! We! sincerely! invite! you! to! accomplish! this!questionnaire.! All! data! collected!will! remain! confidential! and! just! for!academic!purposes!only.!
!
!!
95!
!3õGƻ�Ǔ�/Where!are!you!come!from!A. DŽļ�o�Íļŏnj¶ìśŏŏǔƍà�Ŝ�!! ! Eastern!China!(Shandong,!Jiangsu,!Anhui,!Zhejiang,!Jiangxi,!Fujian,!Shanghai)!B. DŽs�o�ßļßǔŜs�!Southern!China!(Guangdong,!Guangxi,!Hainan)!
C. DŽ#�o�šnšsœs�!Central!China!(Hubei,!Hunan,!Henan)!
D. DŽn�o�n1«ŘœnÍǔXLJ��!Northern!China!(Beijing,!Tianjin,!Hebei,!Shanxi,!Neimenggu)!
E. ǔn�o�½§ĝſȲŜȨǔŵƷ�!Northwest!China!(Ningxia,!Xinjiang,!Qinghai,!Gansu,!Shaanxi)!
F. ǔs�o��ÎȯsǷÏǔNjȚü�!Southwest!China!(Yunnan,!Sichuan,!Guizhou,!Tibet,!Chongqing)!
G. ļn�o�ȑ½�Ľɉɋŏ�!Northeast!China!(Liaoning,!Jilin,!Heilongjiang)!
H. �Šť�o��ŦɄŠťȠ�!Hong!Kong,!Macau!&!Taiwan!!
4õƁ~ĘƸƐÝ�/How!about!your!education!level?!A.ÃƏ{9�/Junior!College!or!Below! ! ! ! ! B.ªµĶƏ/Bachelor!Degree! ! ! ! ! ! !C.Ɗ¦/Master!Degree! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! D.t¦{9�/PHD!or!Above!!5õƁƶŁ�/Your!occupation:!A.µŶ/Student! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !B.�ºŅȥ{=+Ł�B�Ð!! National!authorities,!enterprise!and!institutions!employee!C.Ǝ=�Ð/Private!enterprise!employee!D.ƻŹƶŁƳ/Freelancer!E.\6�Others____________!!6õƁİĔWªƝŧ�92ŎØǛ��/How!about!your!monthly!income?!A.2,000U9X/Below!2,000! ! ! ! B.2,00114,000! ! ! ! ! ! ! C.4,00116,000! ! ! !D.6,00118,000! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! E.8001110000! ! ! ! ! ! ! F.Ɇğ 10000/Above!10,000!!!!
!
!!
96!
7õƱúğë9�EƑĞâêgĩÈLò��©Ȑ�:!! ! ! Usually,!you!get!fashion!information!from!(Multiple!Choice):!A.ĩÈȮǠ¢d/Fashion! Magazine,! newspaper! ! ! ! ! ! B.ȰǗƚƃ/TV! programme! ! ! ! ! ! ! !C.ÃŁt¹/Professional!blog! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! D.ÃŁƤơǦ¥/Professional!forum!E.Ƌ/ƤƖ/Social!network!websites! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! F.ǘ|b0/Friends!sharing! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !G.\6/Others_____________________!!8õĨ�ǼǸȏĩÈȮǠ�/Have!you!ever!purchase!fashion!magazine?!A.ı/Yes! ! ! ! ! ! !B.Œı/No! !(�vƠĺ�ǨǨõƁȘ��/!End!of!questionnaire,!thank!you!for!your!answering)!!!!" i!�0�;ZzS������������������� ��������
�
9ǂ¸Tŧ 20U�õÕijȮǠX»D©Çȷ�!! ! ! If!the!price!is!�20,!how!many!pages!you!expect!for!the!content�! !A.64ȷ/64!pages! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! B.80ȷ/80!pages! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! C.128ȷ/128!pages! ! ! ! ! ! ! D.�ǕX»ǻțɆ�ȷěŨā/If!contents!are!high!quality,!I!don't!care!page!number!!10õǼǸĩÈȮǠƁȹŰ?/What!is!your!purchase!frequency!of!fashion!magazine:!A.ŌĴíǸ/!Every!Issue! ! ! !B.�³Yņ/Twice!per!quarter!C.�ÛǂÚņ/Several!times!per!year! ! ! !D.Ǹ��ĶÓƢĨé&9hƁ+*/I!can’t!even!remember!when!I!bought!last!issue!!11õÅĩÈȮǠÀȵƁP®Ĩ:/What!is!your!preference!towards!cover!model?!A.!ƈ�ħ/Female!celebrities! ! !B.Š�ĥħƈ�Żħ/Male!celebrities!C.�X�ȫ�/Domestic!or!foreign!famous!models!D.ıMñƁ�ȫ2ū�Ż�ć/Special!global!celebrities!without!gender!limitation!E.ţŽĀȳū/Cartoon!or!still!life!F.Ũāǧ/I!don’t!care!!!!
!
!!
97!
12õƆȚĩÈȮǠƁƮǎǞǛ��!! ! ! ! What!is!your!opinion!towards!the!artistic!design!of!fashion!magazine?!A.ǞǛȴ×ȥȞ/Design!is!very!important!B.ȥȞȓĨX»/The!most!important!should!be!content! ! ! C.Ũāǧ/!I!don’t!care!!13ÅğĩÈȼȮǠ�õ$Ǖȥŗ�.Ğȵ���©Ȑ�!! ! ! ! Which!part!of!fashion!magazine!you!will!pay!more!attention!(Multiple!Choice)!A. IJǒǺǜ!! ! ! ! Clothing!information!
B. Ʈ»Ǻǜ!Beauty!Information!
C. ɁɀƽŶřĞâ!F&B!and!lifestyle!
D. IJɂĐȘĄÑ!Dressing!skills!
E. ŤŚǺǜ!Trend!information!
F. ġȍǺǜ!Travelling!information!
G. �ŪĖ+!Brand!story!
H. QÞǺǜ!Health!information!
I. \6! ! ! ____________!Others! ! ____________!
! ! !149�ȮǠ#�õǼǸȹŰĮɆƁĨ��Ķ�!! ! ! ! Following!magazines,!which!one!is!the!magazine!you!usually!buy?!A.!�ȗÔɇ2 Smart!She�! B.!�IJɂƽƮ» VOGUE�!C.!��2 Marie!Claire�! D.!�ƛ° Mina�!E.�Ż2ǒ For!Him!Magazine�! F.!�¢Woman�!G.�ŴɇIJɂƮ» Rayli�/�ŴɇĩÈVȝ�!
H.!��ŜIJɂ Shanghai!Style�!
I.!� żĩǒ'ǁ Elle�! J.!�ĩÈ Cosmopolitan�/�ĩÈVŶ�!K.!�ĩÈǀǃ Harper’s!Bazaar�/�ǀǃŻ¦�!
L.!�ĩǒ Officiel�!
M.!�Ħlj Vivi�! N.!�óÒ Self�!O.�ĬĢ GQ�! P.!\6/Others!_________________!!!!!!!!!!!!
!
!!
98!
!" i��0�a7o,����������������������������
vjH�x$�Q~���AKO��q�A$�Q~+/o,�
Please read following statements carefully, and evaluate these statements towards
the magazine you choose.
15. �?a7^.gD/Customers’%Product%Involvement%(Zaichkowsky,%1994)! AK&t��Z�qT...... /For you, this magazine is…
�ãƁ/Appealing ! ! ! ! ! ��ãƁ/Unappealing
82ƾ¬Ɓ/Exciting ! ! ! ! ! �82ƾ¬Ɓ/Unexciting
ȉ2Ɓ/Fantastic ! ! ! ! ! ĪȋƁ/Ordinary
82ąWƁ/Involving ! ! ! ! ! �82ąWƁ/Uninvolving
ıøưƁ/Meaningful ! ! ! ! ! ŒıøưƁ/Meaningless
íȱƁ/Necessary ! ! ! ! ! �íǕƁ/Unnecessary
ǷȚƁ/Priceless ! ! ! ! ! ŨTOƁ/Worthless
ȚǕƁ/Important ! ! ! ! ! �ȚǕƁ/Unimportant
ıǿƁ/Interesting ! ! ! ! ! őöƁ/Boring
ı¼cȥJƁ/Relevant ! ! ! ! ! ŒıȥJƁ/Irrelevant
!ŞǹƳƁ�Ūǡƈ/Customers’%Brand%Recognition(Keller%Kevin,%1993)%!16a. N�C(%�Z�q�/I!think!this!magazine!is!trustworthy. 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
16b. Ne(�Z�qOR'cUB(J�T\>c�
! ! ! ! ! I!believe!fashion!information!this!magazine!provides!is!all1accurate.! 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
16c. �Z�qG]#N=X��/This!magazine!had!never!make!me!disappointed.! 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
!
!!
99!
17a. �Z�q�d$fscMD�5xk� /I!think!this!magazine!is!sincere. 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
17b. �T�Z*F({c�q7`�/I!think!this!magazine!is!reliable. 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
17c. �T�Z�hlW�2cUB�q�
! I!believe!this!magazine!is!charming!and!upper!–!class.! 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
18a. Nr_NVT�Z�qcI@xk�/I!think!I’m!committed!to!this!magazine. 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
18b. Y&NW[<3mV|y�Z�q�
I!am!most!likely!to!buy!this!magazine!in!the!future.! 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
19a. NV61"u}�Z�qc-��
! ! ! ! ! I!will!spread!positive!comments!of!this!magazine!to!other!people. 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
19b. bW"5Np8UB�qc|yEwU�NVPn�Z�q�
I!will!recommend!this!magazine!to!someone!who!seeks!my!advice. 1 2 3 4 5
�C�4L/Strongly!Disagree �C4L/Strongly!Agree
!!
�����ùǨõƁ�F�ǨǨ�/Thank!you!for!your!answering!!������!
!
!!
100!
B. Interview%questions%
%
1. õĨ�ȥŗ*ȆÛGǾCTȁƥƁX�ĩÈȮǠ�¯�>����ŜIJɂ�Ɨ�õ
ÅȊ.ȮǠı3ɈƆŕ�!
In!recent!years,!did!you!pay!attention!to!fashion!magazines!in!Mainland!to!take!the!
cheap!route,!such!as!Femina,!ShanghaibStyle?!What!do!you!think!of!these!magazines?!
!
2. �õƆG�ǷdāȵÅƁǫƳƯĨðńƁ�ǷdĨ�įȜÅƃŃǫƳƯƁ�®GŐ
¸ȐȺ�ǂį�þė¯E�!
In! your! perspective,! what! is! your! magazine's! target! audience?! Whether! editors!
determine!the!topics!of!magazine!based!on!the!preferences!of!the!target!audience!or!
not?!If!so,!does!it!effective?!
!
3. ƃhX�ĩÈȮǠƑȼƨ©�AX»ģȀ�ǻm�õÅȊńƁŲǶıEƆŕ���
ȼ�ȮǠƅō�ǷdıEƔ`Mñ�Ĩ�²�Ȍ�ʼnĎqƁƓȢ�ǥƿHǣĥ!
There!is!a!wide!range!of!fashion!magazines!in!Mainland,!but!the!content!has!become!
increasingly! homogeneous,!what! is! your! view! about! this! phenomenon?! Compared!
with! the!same! type!of!magazines,!what! is!your!magazine's!prominent!personality?!
Whether!there!is!further!room!for!improvement?!Please!give!examples.!
!
4. ƃh��¨�25DĒĩÈÀȵƅžªƁōH�õǡŧȊĨ`ğðńƁƲû��À
ȵ2ūƁȐđ��ǷdıDžðńƁ}ĉŃŢ�!
At!present,! foreign!celebrities!still!occupy!the!cover!of! fashion!magazines,!what!do!
you!think!about!this!phenomenon?!Does!your!magazine!have!a!standard!in!selecting!
the!cover!person?!
!
5. ŌĴȮǠƁȐȺ{X»ĨðńŷŶƁ�Ź�XƦȃůƕ·þƁÃȺƽƧȕƄČǞƕ
ƁÃȺ�u©ªōH�ÆƼȊƑōȚŷŶƁx�Ĩ3Ɉ�!
How!topics!and!contents!of!each!issue!are!produced?!What!is!the!proportion!of!the!
topic! that! is! produced! independently! by! domestic! editors?!How! about! that! of! the!
topics!chosen!by!the!headquarters?!What!is!the!reason!for!such!a!proportion?!
!
!!
101!
6. ǷdXȷß�Ɓ_WǺŀĨðńƁ�ȜÅ��ƹīƁ�ŪıŨS��!
Does!your!magazine!has!a!standard!to!chose!an!inside!pages!of!ad?!Whether!there!is!
a!tendency!to!chose!advertising!based!on!its!brand!background!and!brand!image?!
!
7. ĝ±ɅȤǫ��¯ iPad,!Kindle�ƁßŖŚǍÅÛȂǫƳƁȤǫƱúŷŶ*ðńƁç
ȶ�ǷdĨ¯EýÅȊ�ȀlƁ�ėľ¯E�!
New!media!reader!(such!as!iPad,!Kindle)!is!widely!used!and!popular!among!young!
readings.!Does!this!phenomenon!affect!reading!habits!of!young!readers?!What!kind!
of!impact?!How!does!your!magazine!deal!with!this!trend?!Did!you!get!any!effects?!
!
8. ȆĴ��ELLE��#��Źİdĕþrİd�õǡŧȊĨȜÅ#�Ô£ƁıƂĕǬ��
õÅňƿıEƆŕ�Ƿdį�ȜÅȊ�Ǭmċ}ƅýčĠ�!
Recently,!ELLE!(China)!changed!from!monthly!to!semimonthly;!do!you!think!this!is!a!
beneficial! change! for! Chinese! market?! What! is! your! own! opinion! of! this! move?!
Whether!your!magazine!plans!to!take!appropriate!actions!toward!ELLE's!changes?!
ȜÅ ELLE���ELLE�ĕrİdĨ`ğ�.ĞȵƁƲû�õÅȊńƁĕǬı3Ɉ
ńƁĴè�!
For!ELLE�:!What!kinds!of!reasons!leads!to!the!change!of!semimonthly!issue?!What!
kind!of!expectation!you!have!towards!this!change?!
!
9. ƃhǷdƀǍǖLj¯E�Åğ,�ƥ Ô�ĵGıðńƁǛj�Ĵè�!
What! about! resent! publishing! situation?! How! about! the! distribution! channel!
coverage! in!Mainland?!For! the!second1tier!and! third1tier!cities,!what!are! the!plans!
and!expectance!in!the!future?!
10. õÅ�XŻñĩÈȮǠƁÔ£hīıEƆŕ�!
What’s! your! opinion! about! the! market! prospects! of! the! domestic! male! fashion!
magazine?!
���Ƿd� ���� ÛƁƀÊǛŽ�ƃŃĨ3Ɉ�õÅ ���� ÛĩÈȮǠǍŁ�É\ĨǷd
ƁƀÊıEĴèƽÊij��
In! 2012,! what! are! the! plans! and! objectives! of! your! magazine?! What! are! your!
expectations!of!fashion!magazine!industry,!especially!of!your!magazine?!
!
!!
102!
C. Transmittal%Letter%
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