ASP Technical web

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T E C H N I C A L M A N U A L


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Our philosophy is simple: to use knowledge, innovation,

creativity and technology to create superior, safe, leading

edge products for the professional haircare industry.

ASP USA

Vista, California

Technical Manual


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/3ASP

Today, ASP is sold in over 50 countries - across Europe, Arica, the United States, South America, and the Asia Pacifc.The

ASP brand is marketed globally by International Hair Cosmetics Ltd. UK and through its ASP Salon Proessional group o

companies in the USA and Australia. Distribution is achieved through a worldwide network o wholesalers and specialist

distributors.

In 2004 the UK Companys Research and Development Laboratory in Italy used it s revolutionary DATEM Technology to

create Kitoko - the worlds most advanced hair colour. Today, the team headed by Dott. Nicola Summer continue to break

new ground in the development exciting, industry leading hair products that will urther strengthen ASPs reputation

as one o the astest growing haircare companies in the world. This growth is spearheaded by the twin aims o unrivaled

product innovation and quality, supported by comprehensive training and education systems.

In 1996 International Hair Cosmetics Ltd. UK conceived, created and launched the premium hair

care brand ASP. Originated as a line o permanent hair colour, the ASP brand grew rapidly to include

tone on tone and ashion colours, permanent waves, specialist highlighting systems, bleachingpowders, shampoos, conditioners and styling products that have been enthusiastically embraced by

consumers and the hairdressing industry worldwide.

4 ASP Australia Sydney, NSW, AUS

4


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/4 Index

Index

DATEM TECHNOLOGY 5

Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crme 6

Why Use Kitoko? 6

Skin Test Method 7

KitokoNumbering System 8

Client Consultation & Colour Selection 9

Retouch Application 9

White Hair Coverage 9Extra Coverage with Natural Ash Shades (.01) 9

Liting Power o Kitoko 10

ASP Crme Developer / Mixing Quantities 10

Application Method 11

First Time Application to Darken 12

First Time Application to Lighten 12

Processing Times 13

KitokoHigh Lit Arctic Blonde 12. Series 13

High Lit Booster 12.0s 15

Kitoko 3.66 - New Formula Statement 15

Kitoko Shade Guide 16

Kitoko Gothic Collection Permanent Hair Colour Crme 20

Kitoko Satin Ammonia FreeTone On Tone Colour 21

Kitoko Satin Shade Guide 23

Intensives Colour Crme 24

bRED Colour Highlighting Crme 26

Refresher Rereshes all Red, Copper & Magenta Highlights 27

HotShotz True Semi-Permanent 28

Colour Dynamics 29

Spectrum Highlighting & Toning System 30

Blonde Ammonia Free Lightening System 32

Ice Crme Ammonia Free Powder Lightener 33

Lite HighPerormance Powder Bleach 34

Converter Converts Permanent Colour to Tone On Tone Eect 35

Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation Spray & Gel 36

Eraser Hair Colour Remover 37

ASP COLOUR WHEEL 39

Technical Manual


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DATEM Technology at Work

DATEM encapsulates the oxygen, reducing the action o the ree

radicals. The encapsulated oxygen is transported into the cortex o thehair by gently separating the bonds between the keratin chains.

Once there the oxygen is released and the li ting process and deposit o

the permanent pigment begins.

When DATEM is used in HotShotz, where no oxidisation occurs, it

allows much deeper penetration o the pigment and the conditioning

base. This results in a longer lasting colour and a superior fnish to the

hair.

DATEM can be found in the following products:

Kitoko Kitoko Satin Intensives bRED HotShotz Spectrum

Blonde Eraser

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS

LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

Dott. Nicola Summer

ASP R&D Laboratory, Bologna, Italy

Free Radicals

In chemistry, radicals (oten reerred to as ree radicals) are atomic

or molecular species with unpaired electrons which can be created

in many dierent ways (UV rays, pollution, intense sunlight, oxygen

processes). They are very reactive and cause damage to the chemical

compounds in our body (i.e. proteins, DNA). And when we are working

with oxidation-based products it causes damage to the cuticle and

scalp. DATEM in our products encapsulates the oxygen and releases it

inside the hair thus drastically reducing the creation o ree radicals.

Oxygen encapsulated / controlled by DATEM

DATEM in contact with Keratin

DATEM releasing oxygen to allow lightening

Free oxygen

/5DATEM Technology

DATEM is a revolution in hair colour technologyand is unique to ASP. This groundbreakingtechnology makes ASP colour products kinder, aster(by allowing the use o heat without damaging thehair or scalp) and more eective.


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The Worlds Most Advanced Permanent Hair Colour Crme with DATEM Technology.

Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crme uses our unique DATEM Technology to penetrate deeper and aster into the hair shat with signifcantly

less damage to the cuticle. The pH level steadily decreases throughout the colour process, locking in the colour molecule to give intense, long

lasting results and 100% grey coverage in just 25 minutes (with heat).

Kitokos ultra-low ammonia content and emulsion crme base reduce the risk o sensitivity, whilst the incredible lit action al lows the use o much

lower volumes o developer. Kitokos gentle ormulation with UV flters and Protein Protectors ensures that the hair is let in beautiul condition,

producing clean blondes, vibrant reds, or sot natural tones.

Why use Kitoko?

1. Formulated Using DATEM Technology for Maximum Coverage Of White Hair

The exceptional covering power o Kitoko is due to DATEM Technology and the specially ormulated Emulsion Base.

The special Kitoko base with DATEM Technology, moisturises the hair and penetrates deep into the cortex, taking with it the colourmolecules. This ensures 100% coverage o white hair and maintains the strength o the hair structure.

2. DATEM Technology Allows Fast Processing - 25 Minutes With Gentle Heat

DATEM Technology is unique in the way it allows the use o gentle heat to accelerate the colouring process with no damage to hair or scalp.

The use o gentle heat is even recommended when using 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) Crme Developer with 12. series (high lit Arctic

blondes). 30 minute processing time. The use o heat will not compromise the result or lasting power o our products.

Do not cover whilst processing.

3. Resistance To Fade

Whether natural or ashion colours are required, it is important they do not ade between applications.

One o the main causes o changes in colour is the exposure to air and light. Oxygen in the hair creates creeping oxidation.

Technical Manual

/6 Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crme




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Fade also occurs because light contains ultra violet radiation. This can cause ading by bleaching the colour out o the hair.

Due to DATEM Technology, Kitoko will penetrate deeper into the cortex without causing damage to the cuticle layer.

This will prevent the new colour rom ading. Kitoko also contains UV flters which reduce harmul rays and special buers to control

creeping oxidation, producing longer lasting colour results.

4. Low Levels of Ammonia and Reducing pH

Very low levels o ammonia are made possible due to the inclusion o DATEM Technology. The reducing pH o Kitoko results in long

lasting, shiny results. Buering agents in the emulsion crme base counter the negative eects o strong alkalinity and control the pH

during processing. When mixed, the ammonia levels o Kitoko are lower due to dilution with Crme Developer. See table below:

5. Lift Action

A permanent hair colour must have good liting power in order or the colour result to be even: permanent hair colour frst lits someo the natural pigment beore depositing new colour. Even black must frst l it the natural pigment beore depositing colour.

Kitoko HAS THE RIGHT BALANCE. Kitoko WILL LIFT HIGHER WITH 6%(20vol) THAN MANY OF ITS COMPETITORS USING 9%(30vol).

When darkening or covering white, (or colouring on the same level) 3%(10vol) SHOULD BE USED.

6. Mixing and Application

Kitoko mixes easily to a smooth crme consistency. When mixed, Kitoko has the right consistency to

allow the product to stay where it is needed and to allow the product to spread easily.

Always ensure you measure the correct quantities o colour and Crme Developer or perect results.

Weigh Kitoko using the ASP Electronic Balance for most accurate results.

7. Kitoko Colour Crme

Kitoko has been ormulated to create a colour to meet the demands o the proessional hairdresser.

Kitoko is produced by proessionals or proessionals and their clients.

8. Health and SafetyKitoko uses the saest possible ingredients to meet the strict Health and Saety guidelines o the hairdressing world.

Important Note - for Professional Use Only.It is recommended to always wear protective gloves when using any chemical product. Colour products can occasionally cause an allergic

reaction and a prior sk in test is always advisable when permanent hair (or tone on tone) colour is to be used. Do not use to dye eyelashes or

eyebrows. Rinse immediately i product comes into contact with the eyes. I irritation persists, seek medical advice.

ASP Skin Test Method

ASP recommend a skin test beore every colour application.

Mix small amount o chosen shade with appropriate developer to be used on client. Apply to orearm or behind ear. Leave or 45 minutes, rinse.

Look or reaction ater 24 and 48 hours. I any irritation or reaction occurs do not apply colour.

Skin Test ProcedureThe reerences given demonstrate conditions, applications and examples o use o the techniques according to the COLIPA* guidelines. Whilst

some o the reerences concern fnished products, they are equally applicable to the testing o cosmetic ingredients. Exposure times and

concentrations are presented only as illustrations.

/7Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crme

Shades Ammonia Levels - Unmixed Ammonia Levels - Mixed with Crme Developer

1. - 10. Series 0.5% - 2.3% ( Highest in 10. Series) 0.2% - 0.9%

12. Series 3.2% 1.06%


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* COLIPA is the European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perumery Association, established in1962.

Its objectives are: To provide expertise and support to a range o working groups dealing in scientifc, economic, fscal, legal, consumer and

environmental issues.

To assist members in complying with European Union legislation aecting cosmetic industry products and operations.

To act as an industry voice working with both international authorities and organisations. Additionally, COLIPA provides a worldwide

perspective to its members through its relationships with equivalent organisations in the USA and Japan.

To serve as a communication and inormation centre or the European cosmetic industry, Strengthening the industrys position

through continuous interaction with its members.

Kitoko Numbering System

The Kitoko numbering system ollows the International Colour Code (I.C.C.) allowing the colourist to identiy each colour, depth and tone.

In the I.C.C. the number beore the point indicates the depth (how light or dark). The number ater the point indicates the primary tone that is

added to the shade. The second number indicates the secondary tone which subdues or enhances the primary tone. The third number (where

applicable) is the tertiary tone which again can enhance or subdue the other tones.

For example: When using the shade 6.652 - .6 is the primary tone, .5 is the secondary tone and .2 would be described as the tertiary tone

(pronounced tertiary). Tertiary means third in line.

Kitoko DEPTHS Kitoko TONES

12 Very Light Extra blonde 0 Natural

10 Extra Light Blonde 1 Green Ash

9 Very Light Blonde 2 Violet Ash

8 Light Blonde 3 Gold

7 Medium Blonde 4 Copper

6 Dark Blonde 5 Mahogany

5 Light Brown 6 Red

4 Medium Brown 7 Blue

3 Dark Brown

2 Very Dark Brown

1 Black

Technical Manual


Single Application Open Epicutaneous Test

Devices: glass sticks, swab or cellulose paper

Test site: inner orearm

Frequency of application: once or solid or viscous materials (i.e. hair colour); or liquid materials, repeated applications every 30

seconds may be made to maintain exposure o the application site

Duration of treatment: 30 minutes (or 15 - 60 minutes depending on the aim o the study)

Removal of test substance: by rinsing or gentle swabbing

Time(s) of assessment: immediately record time when eect(s) frst occur(s) immediately ater completion o application period and

again ater 24 & 48 hours

Parameters: erythema, oedema, scaling, adverse sensation(s) noted by participant

Grading: zero, weak, moderate, strong

Evaluation: number o subjects with eect(s) within defned time period, or occurrence o frst response

NB. When skin testing: always test using the same shade and developer that is to be applied.


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Examples8.43 - Base 8. + Copper 4 + Gold 3 = Light Copper Gold Blonde

10.32 - Base 10. + Gold 3 + Violet 2 = Light Sand Beige Blonde

6.036 Base 6. + Natural 0 + Gold 3 + Red 6 = Dark Natural Gold Red Blonde (Dark Chocolate)

Client Consultation and Colour Selection

Identiy the natural depth and percentage o white hair.

Determine i the hair has had any previous chemical services.

Select the target shade.

Examine hair condition and porosity.

Evaluate the liting power o the chosen shade.

Choose the correct shade and developer strength to be applied.

Use the correct processing time.

The 70% RuleThe swatches in the Kitoko shade guide are based on 70% white hair.

To achieve the target shade, please ollow the 70% rule below.

A) Where there is 70% white hair, select the target shade. ie to achieve a 6.0 apply a 6.0

B) Where there is more than 70% white hair, select one shade darker than the target shade. ie to achieve a 6.0 apply a 5.0

C) Where there is less than 70% white hair, select one shade lighter than the target shade. ie to achieve an 6.0 apply a 7.0

Important - Retouch Application

Colour SelectionPlease note that the heat rom the scalp will cause lit. For this reason you should ollow these Colour Selection rules:

When colouring tone on tone or darkening - I less than 70% white hair is present, choose target shade. Use 3%(10vol) Crme Developer.

When colouring tone on tone or darkening - I more than 70% white hair is present, choose one shade darker. Use 3%(10vol) Crme Developer.

When lightening - Choose target shade and correct developer strength (use the level o lit guide)

White Hair Coverage

Kitoko will cover 100% white hair.

The ashion shades in Kitoko do not require the addition o base colours to cover white hair.

Extra Coverage with Natural Ash Shades (.01)

These special shades are developed or covering resistant white hair.

The .01 (Natural Ash) shades are a combination o Natural (.0) and Ash (.1) tones.

When a high percentage o white or resistant white hair is present, this combination helps to increase the covering capability whilst retaining the

tone o the chosen shade.



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In the past, colourists have mixed 50% o natural tones with other shades in order to guarantee the coverage o white hair.

This practice meant that i the target shade was a cool or ash shade, the addition o a Natural shade added warmth to the colour, thereby losing

the desired cool ash shade. I the target shade was a warm shade ie Red or Copper, the addition o a Natural shade would decrease the intensity.

The Kitoko Natural Ash .01 tones can be added to any shade including Red or Coppers in concentrations o up to 25% to guarantee coverage o

white hair whilst retaining the desired tone. e.g. o target shade to o corresponding .01 shade.These .01 tones may be used alone or a Natural-Ash result i required.

Intense Mix - To increase coverage on coarse, very dicult to cover white hair, it is recommended that you mix Kitoko in a ratio o 1 partcolour to 1 part developer.

N.B. It may be necessary to select a lighter shade as this mix will give greater deposit and result may appear to be deeper.

Application To Pre-Washed Towel Dried Hair.Shampooing prior to application will help the penetration on coarse hair/resistant white hair.

Lifting Power of Kitoko

Kitoko is ormulated to enable the use o lower volumes o developer, maintaining the hairs strength whilst still attaining perect results.

3%(10vol) should be used or: covering white hair, increasing colour depth, darkening and colouring on the same level.

Lit action is built into Kitoko so greater lit can be achieved using lower volumes o developer.

Using 6%(20vol) ASP Crme Developer, the lit power is as ollows:

When using 1.0 Black or 2.0 Very dark brown this will give a level o lit.

When using 3.0 Dark brown or 4.0 Medium brown this will give 1 level o lit.

When using 5.0 Light brown or 6.0 Dark blonde this will give 1 to 2 levels o lit.

When using 7.0 Medium blonde to 10.0 Very light blonde this will give 2 to 3 levels o lit.

These levels o lit apply to all shades in the equivalent depth, i.e. 5.0 and 5.35 will both give 1 to 2 Levels o lit using 6%(20vol).

The lit action or all shades is displayed vertically on the Shade Guide next to the base shades. When using 9%(30vol) ASP Crme Developer, theliting power is increased by a hal to one level over that o 6%(20vol).

ASP Crme Developer

ASP Crme Developer is a highly stable solution in 4 strengths - 3%(10vol), 6%(20vol), 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol).

Using ASP Crme Developer ensures easy mixing, correct results and long lasting colour. Using other peroxides/developers can result in weak

colour results and colour ade. ASP can only guarantee results when ASP Crme Developer is used.

The chart below shows the levels o l it that can be achieved using Kitoko with ASP Crme Developers.

For covering white hair, increasing colour depth and darkening: use 3%(10vol) pH2.95

For up to 3 Levels o Lit depending on Kitoko shade used: use 6%(20vol) pH2.9

When 1 extra level o lit is required: use 9%(30vol) pH2.85

For up to 5 levels o lit with Arctic Blondes (12. Series): use 12%(40vol) pH2.8

Technical Manual


SHADE DEPTHS LEVELS OF LIFT

1, 2 1/2

3, 4 1

5, 6 1-2

7, 8, 9, 10 2-3


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RememberBase your shade selection on the percentage o white hair present. The correct developer choice is based on the levels o lit required. When no

lit is required always use 3%(10vol). See table below:

Mixing QuantitiesThe mix ratio o Kitoko to Crme Developer is 1 part colour to 1.5 (1 ) parts Crme Developer or all shades except 12 series, which are mixed 1

part colour to 2 parts Crme Developer. See table below or examples:

Application Method

When using Kitoko the correct quantity o product must be applied onto the hair. Too little product will mean insucient lit, low colour deposit

and poor coverage resulting in ade. By applying the correct quantity, the product will penetrate the hair shat, reaching the keratin chains and

produce the liting and deposit action. Applications can be made on dry or pre-washed, towel dried hair. Some resistant white hair will accept

colour better i the hair is pre-washed and towel dried. This method is also advisable when the hair is resistant to colour.

Divide hair into 4 sections: rom centre o orehead to nape o the neck and rom ear to ear. Start rom area where the percentage o white hair is

highest. Apply product to thin sections taking care not to overlap previously coloured hair. When application is completed, the product must be

clearly visible on the hair. When using High Lit Blondes remember to take very fne sections o hair and apply twice as much product than usual.

When mixing colour using a tint brush, please use a clean brush or application to the hair.

RememberInsucient product and/or bad application is a common cause o poor results.


Kitoko Crme Mixed With Crme Developer Total Mix Quantities

10g/0.33oz + 15g/0.51oz 25g/0.84oz

20g/0.67oz + 30g/1.01oz 50g/1.69oz

30g/1.01oz + 45g/1.52oz 75g/2.53oz

40g/1.35oz + 60g/2.03oz 100g/3.38oz

50g/1.69oz + 75g/2.53oz 125g/4.4oz

60g/2.03oz + 90g/3.04oz 150g/5.07oz

Kitoko 12 Series High Lift Arctic Blondes Mixed With Crme Developer 9% / 12% Total Mix Quantities

100g/3.38oz + 200g/6.76oz 300g/10.6oz

75g/2.53oz + 150g/5.07oz 225g/7.93oz

50g/1.69oz + 100g/3.38oz 150g/5.07oz

25g/0.84oz + 50g/1.69oz 75g/2.53oz

Natural Base %White Target Colour To Use Levels of Lift Crme Developer

5 70% 7.4 7.4 0 3%(10vol)

5 0% 7.4 8.4 2 6%(20vol)

4 0% 7.4 8.4 3 6%(20vol)

1 0% 2.0 3.1 (add .01 Intensives) 1 6%(20vol)

3 0% 7.4 8.4 4 9%(30vol)


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First Time Application To Darken

LEVELS 1 - 10

(MIXING RATIO: 1 part Kitoko to 1.5 parts ASP Crme Developer)

Apply to mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), avoiding the root area and process or 5 minutes (No Heat).

Do not cover during processing.

Apply to the root area (Fig.2) and process or a urther 40 minutes - no heat.

OR 20 minutes - gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) Do not cover during processing.

RemovalAt the end o the processing time, without adding water, emulsiy colour around hairline to remove any stains, then add a small amount o water

and continue to emulsiy the remaining colour.

Rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Total Processing Time: 45 minutes - no heat

OR 25 minutes - gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F)

First Time Application To Lighten

This method o application should be used with any shade where the objective is to lighten the natural colour.

Processing:Without Heat - Do not cover during processing.Apply to the mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched.

Process or 20 minutes

Apply the remaining product to the roots (Fig.2) and process or a urther 25Total processing time 45 minutes

Processing:With Gentle Heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) Do not cover during processing.Apply to the mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched.

Process or 5 minutes.

Apply the remaining product to the roots (Fig.2) and process or a urther 20 minutes

Total processing time 25 minutes

SEE REMOVAL ABOVE

Retouch Application:Without Heat - Do not cover during processing.Mix enough product to allow application to whole head o hair. Do not mix resh colour or the application to mid lengths and ends.

Apply to the regrowth only. Process or 40 minutes.

Using the same mix, apply to the mid lengths and ends and process or a urther 5 minutes.


Retouch Application:With Gentle Heat - (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) Do not cover during processing.Mix enough product to allow application to whole head o hair. Do not mix resh colour or the application to mid lengths and ends.

Apply to the regrowth only. Process or 20 minutes.

Using the same mix, apply to the mid lengths and ends and process or a urther 5 minutes WITHOUT HEAT


SEE REMOVAL ABOVE

MixingMix Kitoko 1 -10 series in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with ASP Crme Developer to the ratio o 1 part colour to 1.5 parts developer,

e.g. 100g/3.8oz o Kitoko Colour Crme + 150g/5.07oz o ASP Crme Developer.

Technical Manual


Fig.1

Fig.2


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Important - Retouch Application

Colour SelectionPlease note that the heat rom the scalp will cause lit. For this reason you should ollow these Colour Selection rules:

When colouring tone on tone or darkening - I less than 70% white hair is present, choose target shade. Use 3%(10vol) developer.

When colouring tone on tone or darkening - I more than 70% white hair is present, choose one shade darker. Use 3%(10vol) developer.

When lightening - Choose target shade and correct developer strength (use the level o lit guide)

Processing Times - Do not cover during processing.

When working with permanent hair colour it is important to use the recommended processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour

result. I these are not used poor results may occur. The recommended processing time or Kitoko crme colour is 45 minutes with no heat or 25

minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). During this time two dierent actions are taking place - 1. Lift Action and 2. Colour Deposit.

When using no heat: the lit action is 30 minutes. Also during this period the colour slowly starts to develop. Colour molecules begin to increase in size.

The ull colour deposit happens in the fnal 15 minutes. During this period the colour ully develops and the molecules reach their optimum size.

Total time: 45 minutes.

When using gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F): the lit action is 15 minutes and the colour deposit is the fnal 10 minutes.


Correct Processing Times

High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. Series

MIXING RATIO: 1 PART Kitoko HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES to 2 PARTS ASP CRME DEVELOPER - 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol)

The Kitoko High Lit Arctic Blonde 12. series is a range o very eective, extra light blonde shades giving 4 - 5 levels o lit. The unique ormulation

with DATEM Technology ensures long lasting even results leaving the hair in perect condition.

High Lift Arctic Blondes:12.0 High lit Arctic light blonde

12.0s High Lit Booster

12.1 High lit Arctic Light Ash Blonde

12.2 High lit Arctic Pearl Blonde

12.23 High lit Arctic Beige Blonde

Mixing (High Lift)Mix Kitoko in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with ASP Crme Developer 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) to the ratio o 1 part colour to 2 parts

developer, e.g. 100g/3.38oz o Kitoko High Lit Arctic Blonde + 200g/6.76oz o ASP Crme Developer.


45 MINUTES - NO HEAT 25 MINUTES - GENTLE HEAT

(40 - 42C / 104 - 108F)


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Processing Times: Do not cover during processing.When working with permanent hair colour it is important to use the recommended processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour

result. I these are not used poor results may occur. The recommended processing time or Kitoko High Lit Arctic Blonde 12 Series is 55 to 60

minutes with no heat (60 minutes or maximum tone deposit) or 30 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). During this time two

dierent actions are taking place - 1. Lift Action and 2. Colour Deposit.When using no heat: the lit action is 45 minutes. Also during this period the colour slowly starts to develop. Colour molecules begin to increase

in size. The colour deposit happens in the fnal 10 - 15 minutes. During this period the colour ully develops and the molecules reach their

optimum size.

Total time: 55 - 60 minutes.

When using gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) the lit action is 25 minutes and the colour deposit is the fnal 5 minutes.


The processing time of High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. Series is:

Virgin Head Application:Without Heat (hair up to 25cm)HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.

Mix enough product to allow application to whole head o hair.

Apply product to the lengths and ends leaving approx 3 - 4cm o the root hair untouched. Wait until the desired lit is reached (approx. 20 minutes),

then apply colour to the roots. Process until the desired lit is reached (35 - 40 minutes)

Total processing time 55 - 60 minutes

Virgin Head Application:With Heat (hair up to 25cm)HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.

Mix enough product to allow application to whole head o hair.

Apply product to the lengths and ends leaving approx 3-4cm o the root hair untouched. Process or 10 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C /

104 - 108F) then apply colour to the roots. Process or 20 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F).


Virgin Head Application: Without Heat (hair longer than 25cm)

HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.

Apply colour frst to the ends (5 - 6cm).

Process or 20 minutes. Remix resh colour and then apply to the mid lengths or 20 minutes.

Finally, Remix resh colour and apply to the root area until the desired shade is reached (approx. 20 minutes).


Virgin Head Application:With Heat (hair longer than 25cm)HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.

Apply colour frst to the ends (5 - 6cm). Process or 5 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F).

Remix resh colour and then apply to the mid lengths or 5 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Finally, Remix resh colour and apply

to the root area until the desired shade is reached approx 20 minutes (gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F).


Technical Manual


55 - 60 MINUTES - NO HEAT 30 MINUTES - GENTLE HEAT

(40 - 42C / 104 - 108F)

colourdeposit


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At the end o the processing time add a small amount o water and emulsiy the colour.


Application For Regrowth Application: Without HeatHIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.

Apply colour to the REGROWTH AREA ONLY. DO NOT OVERLAP onto the middle lengths or ends.

Process for 55 - 60 minutes.



Application For Regrowth Application:With HeatHIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.

Apply colour to the REGROWTH AREA ONLY. DO NOT OVERLAP onto the middle lengths or ends.

Process or 30 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F)



Application To White Hair: 12. SERIESWhere more than 25% white hair is present: 12.1, 12.23 or 12.2 should be mixed with 12.0 or 12.0s in equal amounts to prevent unwanted ash

tones, e.g. 50g/1.69oz o 12.1 + 50g/ 1.69oz o 12.0s + 200g/6.7oz o ASP Crme Developer.

High Lift Booster 12.0s

12.0s May be used to INCREASE the lit o High Lit Arctic Blondes by up to 1 shade, by adding 25% o 12.0s, without aecting the tonal value.

E.g. 75g/2.53oz 12.1 + 25g/0.84oz 12.0s + 200g/6.76oz ASP Crme Developer.

12.0s Will give 1 - 2 levels o lit when used on its own with ASP Crme Developer 9%(30vol) 1 - 2 mix.

E.g. 25g/0.84oz o 12.0s - 50g/1.7oz o ASP Crme Developer 9%(30vol)

Kitoko 3.66 - New Formula

Market demands have lead to a reormulated 3.66 or increased red tones and extra vibrancy.

Hints & Tips for use

A) On very light natural hair, or on 70% - 100% white hair, we recommend that 3.66 should be mixed with 3.0 in the ratio 3 parts 3.66

to 1 part 3.0 and mix with 3%(10vol) ASP Crme Developer

B) On a natural base 6 and darker with up to 50% grey, 3.66 alone with 3%(10vol) will give an excellent result.

C) Fashion Hint - a eature o this stunning shade is that on a dark natural base you can pre-lighten slices and then apply 3.66 to the

whole head to give a deep and intense 3.66 result but with strong vibrant red slices.


16/39Technical Manual


High Lift

Arctic Light

Blonde

12.0

0

Natural Tones

.00

Extra Natural

.01 .21

Natural Ash Tone

.1

Green Ash

High Lift

Booster

12.0s

High Lift

Arctic Light

Ash Blonde

12.1

Extra Light

Natural

Blonde

10.0

Extra Light

Cool Ash

Blonde

10.21

Extra Light

Ash Blonde

10.1

Very Light

Blonde

9.0

Extra

Natural

Very light

Blonde

9.00

Natural

Very Light

Ash Blonde

9.01

Very Light

Ash Blonde

9.1

Light

Blonde

8.0

Extra

Natural

Light

Blonde

8.00

Natural

Light Ash

Blonde

8.01

Mix

1/2 9.1

1/2 7.1

8.1

Medium

Blonde

7.0

Extra

Natural

Medium

Blonde

7.00

Natural

Medium

Ash Blonde

7.01

Medium

Ash Blonde

7.1

Dark

Blonde

6.0

Extra

NaturalDark

Blonde

6.00

Natural

Dark AshBlonde

6.01 6.1

Light

Brown

5.0

Mix

1/2 6.00

1/2 4.00

5.00

Natural

Light Ash

Brown

5.01

Medium

Brown

4.0

Extra

Natural

Medium

Brown

4.00

Natural

Medium

Ash Brown

4.01

Dark

Brown

3.0

Very Dark

Brown

2.0

Black

1.0

12.Super Light

Blonde

10.Extra Light

Blonde

9.Very Light

blonde

8.Light

Blonde

7.Medium

Blonde

6.Dark

Blonde

5.Light

Brown

4.Medium

Brown

3.Dark

Brown

2.Extra Dark

Brown

1.Black

4TO

5ShadesLift

4

0Vol(12%)

2TO3

ShadesLift

20Vo

lume(6%)

1TO2ShadesLift

20Volume(6%)

1Shades

Lift

20Volume

(6%)

1/2ShadesLift

20Volume(6%)

Mix

3/4 6.0

1/4 Intensives 0.1


17/39


The

coloursindicatedi

n

thisguide

are

arepresentationo

nly.

High Lift

Arctic Pearl

Blonde

12.2

.2

Violet Ash

.23 .32

Beige

.3

Gold

.33

Intensives Gold

.34 .43

Gold Copper

Copper Gold

High Lift

Arctic

Beige

Blonde

12.23

Mix

1/2 12.0s

1/2 10.3

12.33

Extra Light

Pear

Blonde

10.2

Extra Light

Sand Beige

Blonde

10.32

Extra Light

Golden

Blonde

10.3

Mix

1/2 9.34

1/2 10.3

10.34

Very Light

Violet

Blonde

9.2

Very Light

Pearl Beige

blonde

9.23

Very light

Golden

Blonde

9.3

Very Light

Intensive

Golden

Blonde

9.33

Very Light

Copper

Golden

Blonde

9.34

Light Violet

Blonde

8.2

Light

Sandy

Beige

Blonde

8.32

Light

Golden

Blonde

8.3

Light

Intensive

Golden

Blonde

8.33

Light

Copper

Golden

Blonde

8.43

Medium

Violet

Blonde

7.2

Medium

Pearl Beige

Blonde

7.23

Medium

Golden

Blonde

7.3

Mix

1/2 8.33

1/2 6.33

7.33

Medium

Copper

Golden

Blonde

7.43

Dark Violet

Blonde

6.2

Dark

GoldenBlonde

6.3

Dark

IntensivesGolden

Blonde

6.33

Light

Golden

Brown

5.3

Medium

Violet

Brown

4.2

Mix

1/2 5.3

1/2 4.00

4.3

Deep

Violet

Brown

2.2

12.Super Light

Blonde

10.Extra Light

Blonde

9.Very Light

blonde

8.Light

Blonde

7.Medium

Blonde

6.Dark

Blonde

5.Light

Brown

4.Medium

Brown

3.Dark

Brown

2.Extra Dark

Brown

1.Black




.4

Copper

.45

Copper Mahogany

.46

Copper Red

.53

Mahogany Gold

.5 .52

Mahogany

Mahogany Violet

Mix

1/2 9.0

1/2 8.4

9.4

Light

Copper

Blonde

8.4

Light

Mahogany

Violet

Blonde

8.52

Medium

Copper

Blonde

7.4

Medium

Ruby Red

7.46

Medium

Mahogany

Blonde

7.5

Dark

CopperBlonde

6.4

Dark

CopperMahogany

Blonde

6.45

Dark Ruby

Red

6.46

Mix

1/2 7.5

1/2 5.5

6.5

Light

Copper

Brown

5.4

Ruby Red

5.46

Mix

3/4 5.5

1/4 5.3

5.53

Light

Mahogany

Brown

5.5

Medium

Mahogany

Golden

Brown

4.53

Red

Pepper

6.652

All Spice

7.336

Nutmeg

8.335

Paprika

8.465

Cinnamon

9.325

12.Super Light

Blonde

10.Extra Light

Blonde

9.Very Light

blonde

8.Light

Blonde

7.Medium

Blonde

6.Dark

Blonde

5.Light

Brown

4.Medium

Brown

3.Dark

Brown


19/39


The

coloursindicatedi

n

thisguide

are

arepresentationo

nly.

.35Gold Mahogany

.6 .7Red Blue

.63 .64 .65Red Gold, Red Copper,

Red Mahogany

.66Intensive Red

.035 .036

Very Light

Golden

Mahogany

Blonde

9.35

Cae

Latte

9.035

Light

Golden

Mahogany

Blonde

8.35

Cappuccino

8.035

Medium

Golden

Mahogany

Blonde

7.35

Cherry

7.6

Medium

Flame

Red Blonde

7.64

Milk

Chocolate

7.036

Dark

GoldenMahogany

Blonde

6.35 6.6

Dark Flame

Red Blonde

6.64

Fire Red

6.66

Dark

Chocolate

6.036

Light

Golden

Mahogany

Brown

5.35

Rouge

Red

5.6

Sherry

Red

5.63

Claret

5.66

Coee

5.036

Veronese

Red

4.6

Beaujolais

4.65

Caf Noir

4.036

Burgundy

3.66

Blue

Black

1.7

12.Super Light

Blonde

10.Extra Light

Blonde

9.Very Light

blonde

8.Light

Blonde

7.Medium

Blonde

6.Dark

Blonde

5.Light

Brown

4.Medium

Brown

3.Dark

Brown

2.Extra Dark

Brown

1.Black

Mix

1/4 7.6

1/2 5.61/4 Intensives 0.6


20/39

Kitoko Gothic CollectionFor Colour Deposit Only - No Lift Action

The Kitoko Gothic Collection is an innovative range o 5 permanent grey and black shades, rom pure platinum to deepest black.

The Gothic Collection is designed to be used with 3%(10vol) ASP Crme Developer.

The grey shades are ormulated or use on natural white/grey hair where no lit is required.

This non-liting range solely deposits colour. Gothic Black 1.117 has been created to give the deepest ashion eects on all hair colours.

The grey shades within this collection may also be used on any pre-lightened white hair to give high ashion eects/grey shades.

Mix as stated below. Use full recommended processing times.

Mixing1 part Gothic shade to 1.5 parts 3%(10vol) ASP Crme Developer, e.g. 50g/1.7g o Gothic shade to 75g/2.53oz o ASP Crme Developer 3%(10vol).

Processing Time45 minutes on natural white/grey hair (no heat).

25 minutes (gentle heat 40 - 42C / 104 - 108F).

Hints and Tips

1. To achieve Salt and Pepper low lights, use 4.117 and/or 6.117 on natural white hair. Because the traditional method o using natural

colours with added ash or this eect sometimes results in the colour turning warm ater several weeks in the hair, the Gothic

Collection 4.117 and 6.117 are the ideal choice.

2. Converter is ideal or use with the Gothic Collection but may result in a slightly less strong colour result

(Mix: 1 part Gothic shade to 2 parts Converter).

3. The Gothic Collection is also intermixable with Kitoko Natural shades (.0) to create very cold at natural colours (ideal or men).

Technical Manual

/20 The Gothic Collection

The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.



Gothic

Black

1.117 4.117

Onyx

6.117

Silver

9.117 10.117

Anthracite Platinum


21/39

A Breakthrough in Ammonia Free Tone on Tone Colour Technology.

Kitoko Satin is a range o 30 intermixable tone on tone shades. It is an ideal introduction to frst time colouring, gradually washing away and

giving minimal re-growth. It is also suitable or clients not requiring a ull permanent colour.

Kitoko Satins unique conditioning emulsion crme base, coupled with our acclaimed DATEM Technology ensures ast and eective penetration

o the colour molecule without cuticle damage.

The ultra gentle, ammonia ree ormula will not lit or lighten natural or artifcial colour and can be used directly ater a permanent wave.Kitoko Satin can be used to enhance natural hair colour or add tone and will cover up to 50% white hair.

Clear 000 can be used to dilute and modiy the other colours in the range to give the colourist unlimited shade variations.

ImportantKitoko Satin 002 should NEVER be mixed with the other Kitoko Satin shades including 000 Clear. 002 has a slightly dierent pH to achieve Grey

Shades. When mixed with other shades it can give unwanted tones. ASP Satin Clear 000 can be used alone (mixed with Satin Activator

2.8% - 9.3vol) to add shine and texture to fne, dull, natural or tinted hair WITHOUT changing the colour. Kitoko Satin can be mixed with Intensives.

Shade GuideKitoko Satin Shade Chart is based on 50% white hair.

Kitoko Satin Colour SelectionKitoko Satin deposits colour without any lit action - it thereore adds colour and/or depth to the clients existing colour.

For optimum results: I no white hair is present, a shade lighter than the target should be used. This rule does not apply to shades used as toners

on very blonde hair (e.g. 9.00 Champagne Blonde, 9.23 Pearl Blonde). Where a lighter shade is not available, mix 25% Clear 000 into the colour.

Example

Three quarters tube (45g/1.52oz) Kitoko Satin Colour + Quarter tube (15g/0.51oz) Kitoko Satin Clear 000 + 120g/4.23oz Kitoko Satin Activator.Total mix in a bowl 180g/6.34oz.

White HairWhen Approximately 50% white hair is present, the target shade can be used.

When Approximately 50% - 100% white hair is present, use the target shade + 25% o the next darker natural shade.

Example tube (45g/1.52oz) 7.4 + tube (15g/0.51oz) 6.0.

Mix with 120g/4.23oz o Satin Activator.

Total mix in bowl 180g/6.34oz.

Kitoko Satin Mixing Instructions

Kitoko Satin is mixed with Kitoko Satin Activator. 1 part Kitoko Satin to 2 parts Satin Activator.

/21Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour



Coming 2011


22/39

ExampleHal tube (30ml) Kitoko Satin Crme + (60ml) Kitoko Satin Activator.

Kitoko Satin Clear 000 Kitoko Satin Clear 000 contains no colour and may be used to dilute the colour o any Kitoko Satin shade.

Examples (45ml) 4.53 + (15ml) 000 CLEAR will give a one shade lighter colour - 5.53

(30ml) 4.53 + (30ml) 000 CLEAR will give a two shade lighter colour - 6.53

(15ml) 4.53 + (45ml) 000 CLEAR will give a three shade lighter colour - 7.53

RememberWhen you dilute all shades, except naturals, the tone will be weakened.

Kitoko Satin Clear Shine and Texturising TreatmentKitoko Satin Clear 000 mixed with Satin Activator to a ratio o 1 : 2, can be used to add shine, texture and body.

Kitoko Satin ApplicationApplication may be made on wet or dr y hair. Kitoko Satin, when applied to pre-washed/towel dried hair, will give a Tone on Tone result that

gradually ades away. When applied to dry hair it gives a more permanent result.

ASP Skin Test MethodASP recommend a skin test beore every colour application.

Mix small amount o chosen shade with appropriate developer to be used on client. Apply to orearm or behind ear. Leave or 25 minutes, rinse.

Look or reaction ater 24 and 48 hours. I any irritation or reaction occurs do not apply colour.

First Time Application to Virgin HairKitoko Satin should be applied rom root to ends in one application using a non-metallic bowl and brush or applicator.

Regrowth ApplicationWhen applying where there is still colour present in the ends o the hair, the ollowing method should be used:

A) Apply Kitoko Satin to the root area only. Process or 15-20 minutes.

B) Apply remaining colour to the ends o the hair and massage. I the hair is excessively porous through the mid-lengths and ends, it is advisable

to add 25% o Clear 000 to the target shade beore applying to the ends.

C) The processing time is up to 25 minutes.

D) Emulsiy and rinse.

Kitoko Satin Processing TimesProcessing times will vary depending on the porosity o the hair. Individual judgement must be made or each application.

The ollowing is a guide to help to assess the correct development time. Do not use heat with Kitoko Satin.

1. Natural hair with little or no chemical treatment and low porosity: 20 - 25 minutes with no heat or 15 minutes covered with a cap. (No Heat)

2. Chemically treated and porous hair. (tinted / permed) 10 -15 minutes with no heat.

3. Very porous natural or chemically treated hair or immediately ater perming. 3 - 15 minutes.

I necessary dilute with Clear 000. Visual processing time.

4. When using Kitoko Satin as a toner on bleached, very light or porous hair, always strand test prior to application. Use Clear 000 to dilute chosen

shade to required depth. Visual processing time.

Kitoko Satin may also be used to refresh colours from the Kitoko Crme range (Numbering System is the same for both products),

e.g. After a permanent wave or to refresh the ends after a root application with Kitoko.

Removal of Kitoko Satin ColourA) First massage gently without water to remove any staining rom the skin.

B) Add a small amount o water and emulsiy.

C) Rinse well until water runs clear.D) Shampoo with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Hair Types Results

Static hair and all hair types that need shine

Highlighted Hair

Hair becomes easier to work and more manageable.

Satin 000 gives a high gloss fnish

Technical Manual

/22 Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour


23/39

/23Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour


Clear

.000

Silver

.002

Very Dark Brown

2.0

Extra Natural

Medium Brown

4.0

Light Brown

5.0

Dark Blonde

6.0

Medium Blonde

7.0

Light Blonde

8.0

Very

Light Blonde

9.00

Very Light

Golden Blonde

9.23

Medium

Violet Brown

4.2

Medium Mahogany

Golden Brown

4.53

Beaujolais

4.65

Dark Plum

4.776

Light

Copper Brown

5.4

Mahogany Brown

5.5

Coconut

6.35

Copper Sunset

6.43

Copper Beech

6.45

Port Wine

6.65

Sahara

7.3

Tawny

Copper Blonde

7.4

Ruby

7.46

Warm Ash Beige

8.31

Warm Beige

8.32

Coee

5.036

Dark Chocolate

6.036

Milk Chocolate

7.036

Cafe Latte

9.035

Burgundy

3.66


24/39

Customise your Colour with ASP Intensives - your Creative Colour Palette.

ASP Intensives is a range o un-oxidised pure pigments, designed or use with any permanent or tone on tone hair colour.

When Intensives are mixed with another permanent or tone on tone colour that uses developer, Intensives become part o the host colour.

This means that the added colour rom Intensives is as permanent as the host colour. Intensives are used when the colourist wants to increase orsubdue tone. We can use Intensives in two dierent ways:

ADD - When staying on same level, darkening or intensiying tone.

Adding to the mix - i.e. 30g/1.01oz o Colour, 45g/1.52oz o developer plus 30g/1.01oz o Intensives added.

ExampleMix 100g/3.8oz 7.4 Kitoko + 150g/5.07oz o your chosen developer + (ADD) 50g/1.69 0.4 Intensives

As you can see rom this example we are ADDING the Intensives to the mix.

This method should be used when darkening and increasing depth and tone.

INCLUDE - When lightening and brightening tone.

Included in the mix - i.e. 30g/1.01oz o colour, 30g/1.01oz o Intensives plus 90g/3.04oz o ASP Crme Developer.

ExampleMix 100g/3.38oz 7.4 Kitoko + (INCLUDE) 50g/1.69oz 0.4 Intensives + 225g/7.93oz o your chosen ASP Crme Developer.

As you can see rom this example we are INCLUDING the Intensives to the mix.

This method should be used when a lighter, vibrant result is required.

The following tones are available in the Intensives range:

The possibilities o colour variations using Intensives are endless. Intensives are designed to let you be more creative and to expand your colour

palette. Intensives tones 0.3, 0.4, 0.6 , and 0.76 can be ADDED or INCLUDED in large quantities, i desired, to give bright or vibrant tones.

They can also be used on their own mixed with 3%(10vol) - 1 part Intensives to 1 parts ASP Crme Developer - on previously coloured hair to

introduce warm tonal eects.

Intensives Ash tones 0.1, 0.2, 0.21 are designed to help eliminate warm tones (Red, Copper and Gold) when lightening.

On some occasions the colourist may wish to use high lit 12. or 10. series colours on dark bases to achieve light beige or cool blondes.

When the colourist uses colours with tones .1 Green Ash, .2 Violet Ash or .21 Blue Ash and high volumes o developer 9%(30vol) and (12%)40vol,

the ashening eect in the colour is not always strong enough to subdue the red, yellow and orange generated rom the natural colour when

liting. Intensives provide the solution to this problem.


Technical Manual

/24 Intensives Colour Crme



Green

Ash

0.1

Violet

Ash

0.2

Blue

Ash

0.21

Gold

0.3 0.4

Red

0.6 0.76

Copper Purple


25/39

Intensives 0.1 when added to a .1 colour, e.g. 12.1, increases the ashening eect dramatically. This will enable the 12.1 to subdue more o the

warm tones generated during liting.

Similarly by adding 0.2 Violet to 12.2 or 10.2 the cooling o the Gold tone is increased.

Care should be exercised when adding Ash Tones to blonde shades, e.g. 10. and 12. series colours .

A maximum of 10% in the mix is recommended. Always use INCLUDE method.

E.g. 1 tube 100g/3.38oz 10. series to 10g/0.33oz Intensives Ash (0.1, 0.2, or 0.21) + 165g/5.82oz o Developer.

E.g. 1 tube 100g/3.38oz 12. series to 10g/0.33oz Intensives Ash (0.1, 0.2, or 0.21) + 220g/7.76oz Developer 9% or 12%

Adding 0.21 Blue AshWhen liting rom natural base 1. 2. 3. or 4. to levels 6. 7. or 8. Warm copper tones are generated.

ExampleBase 2.0

Target 6.0

Colour used 7.1

Developer 9%(30vol)

Colour Result : Warm base 6

By adding 30% Intensives .21 Blue Ash, into dark shades, a true 6.0 can be achieved.

ExampleBase 2.0

Target 6.0

Colour 7.1 Plus 30% Intensives 0.21e.g. 100g/3.38oz tube 7.1 + 30g/1.01oz o 0.21 + 195g/6.87oz o 9%(30vol) Crme Developer.

/25Intensives Colour Crme


26/39

bRED is an o-the-scalp intensive red highlighting system designed to give brilliant results in Red, Red Violet, Red Copper, Copper and Magenta

tones on natural or coloured hair. Red, Red Violet, Red Copper and Copper are ormulated or use on hair o base 6 or darker. Magenta is

ormulated or use on base 6 and lighter.bRED can be used with 10, 20, 30 or 40 volume Crme Developer (3%,6%,9%,12%) depending on the

amount o lit required. bRED Magenta should be used with 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) Crme Developer on bases 6,7, and 8. Use gentle heat

(40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) or 15 minutes. On bases 9, 10 and above use 3%(10vol) Crme Developer with no heat. Process or 35 minutes.

bRED is mixed on a ratio o 1 part bRED to 1 part o your chosen ASP Crme Developer.

Apply a small quantity to the hair using your preerred application method.

Process or 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) or 35 minutes without heat.

When using bRED on dark coloured hair the use o heat is recommended.

Removal Ater processing, rinse the hair thoroughly and shampoo with Kitoko ColourCare shampoo.

Ensure that the water runs clear. Finish with Kitoko ColourCare Conditioner.

bRED is an o the scalp colouring product and is not recommended or whole head application

or on the scalp use.

I this product is used on very dark, colour treated hair, the colour results will be less vibrant than

on natural hair.

Developer UsagebRED - Red, Red Violet, Red Copper and Copper are designed to give stunning results on all hair types, with low percentage (volumes) o Crme

Developer. It is not generally necessary to use a high percentage (volume) o Crme Developer to achieve maximum lit and colour.

For best results use ASP Crme Developer as ollows:

3%(10vol) on bases 6 and 5*



*Depending on amount of colour build-up.

12%(40vol) should only be used when extreme lit is required on dicult to lighten hair.

Please remember that high percentages (vol) o Crme Developer will give more lit but may reduce the intensity o the colour.

Technical Manual

/26 bRED Colour Highlighting Crme




27/39

bRED Magenta should be used with 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) Crme Developer on bases 6, 7 and 8.

On bases 9, 10 and above use 3%(10vol) Crme Developer.

Generally, 3%, 6% or 9% Crme Developer is sucient or most lightening and colouring with bRED.

Processing Times Process or 15 minutes under gentle heat (covered) or process or 35 minutes with no heat.Do not overheat (or example under a hairdryer on maximum heat). Heat is recommended or hair that has a build up o colour.

bRED Magenta should be processed as follows: 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) Crme Developer - 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F).

3%(10vol) Crme Developer or 35 minutes with no heat.

ImportantbRED is a very intense colour and should not be used on (or with) blonde/white hair, except Magenta, as this could give unwanted results.

/27bRED Colour Highlighting Crme


Red Red Copper Copper Red Violet Magenta


28/39

HotShotz is a True Semi-Permanent Hair Colour that Delivers Exceptional Shineand Vibrancy.

Available in 9 stunning shades, HotShotz illuminates and intensifes existing permanent or semi-permanent hair colour and enhances natural hair

colour in only 3 - 20 minutes. It will also cover up to 20% white hair.

The advanced crme base with DATEM Technology contains no ammonia and requires no peroxide, meaning HotShotz conditions the hair as it

provides beautiul radiance, colour and manageability.

HotShotz is easy to use, leaves no re-growth and washes completely away ater 6 10 shampoos (depending on the porosity o the hair). It can

be applied straight rom the bottle or using a bowl and brush or applicator.

Instructions For UseSee chart below or colour selection recommendations.

I applied to bases other than those recommended, results may be more vibrant or less vibrant.

*These shades will give very vibrant results on pre-lightened hair.

**Quicksilver is also recommended or use on pre-lightened hair to neutralise unwanted yellow tones.

ApplicationShampoo and towel dry hair. Distribute product evenly through the hair using a bowl and brush or applicator. Process or between 3 and 20

minutes depending on result required. Longer processing times will give more long lasting and intense results.

RemovalRinse thoroughly. Due to the conditioning properties o HotShotz, conditioning ater processing may not be necessary.

Tip All HotShotz shades are intermixable to enable you to customise your results.

Shade Result Recommended Bases

QUICKSILVER**

SAND BLONDE

BURNT COPPER*

RED CHILLI*

WILD HONEY*

HOT CHOCOLATE

LIQUORICE

ICE CHESTNUT

AUBERGINE

Cool Silver Tones

Warm Golden Blonde

Copper

Hot Red

Muted Gold Tones

Warm Rich Brown

Black

Flat/Warm Brown

Deep Purple/Violet Tones

10, 9 & 8

9, 8 & 7

8, 7 & 6

7, 6 & 5

8, 7 & 6

7, 6 & 5

3, 2 & 1

7, 6 & 5

5, 4 & 3

Technical Manual

/28 HotShotz True Semi-Permanent



Coming 2011


29/39



The Quick and Easy Solution to Highlighting and Toning.

ASP Spectrum with DATEM Technology is a quick and easy highlighting system or natural and coloured hair. Spectrum lightens and tones the

hair during a single process. In addition to the lightening powder and 3 special activators (8, 22 and 30 vol), the Spectrum system provides a

choice o 6 pigments (tones) allowing you to create individual results or each client. You can use as many dierent tones as you wish, to create

stunning results with cool, warm or natural tones. Spectrum can be used with all highlighting techniques, i.e. oils, meches, spatula, caps etc.

ASP recommends the use o the special Spectrum disposable highlight cap. Spectrum advance ormulation also allows on-scalp application.

Choosing Pigments(Tones)Spectrum Pigments can subdue or increase warmth in the result:

Technical Manual

CoolP

igmen

tsreduce

th

ewarm

th

in

ha

ir

Wa

rmPigments

increas

ewarm

thin

hai

r

/29Spectrum Highlighting & Toning SystemComing 2011



/30 Spectrum Highlighting & Toning System

Cool Pigments Green, Blue and Violet reduce the warmth in the hair.For easy selection o cool Pigments, frst identiy depth o natural base you are to li t and then reer to the chart below.

Warm Pigments- Red, Neutral and Yellow increase warmth in the hair.Use these pigments to give subtle warm results.

Activators8vol (2.4 %) - up to 4 levels o lit

22vol(6.6 %) - up to 5 levels o lit

30vol (9 %) - maximum 5 levels o lit. For dark bases only. NEVER USE 30vol FOR ON SCALP APPLICATIONS.

MixingBlend in a non-metallic bowl to a creamy consistency.

ApplicationApply generous amounts o product or maximum lit.

ProcessingHighlighting Cover with a processing cap, unless using oil or meches.

Process or between 2 and 12 minutes (max) with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Always use a pre heated heat source.

Check the lit (lightening eect) every 2 to 3 minutes.

The Spectrum CapThe Spectrum Cap an ideal way to achieve quick and easy highlighting eects is to use the special Spectrum Highlighting Cap.

Simply place the cap on the clients head, tie around neck and under chin. Use the hooks provided to pierce the cap and pull through strands o

hair to desired thickness. Warm the cap with hand drier to seal holes and mould to head shape. Apply Spectrum and process as per instructions.

On Scalp Application

Important - DO NOT apply to the scalp i there are any abrasions or signs o irritation. Always use protective gloves. Do not cover.

Do not use heat.

Do not use 30vol.

Process or up to 12 minutes (visual development is recommended).

Check the lit (lightening eect) requently.

I desired result is not achieved ater maximum processing time (12 minutes), rinse rom the hair and re-apply.

RemovalRinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Natural Base Dominant Tone In Hair Spectrum Pigment To Use

10, 9 Yellow Violet

8, 7, 6 Orange Blue

5, 4, 3, 2, 1 Red Green

2 level scoops

Lightening Powder

2 level scoops o your

chosen Activator

1 level scoop o Pigment (up to 2 level scoops

o Pigment may be used or maximum tone deposit)

Coming 2011


31/39

/31Blonde Ammonia Free Lightening System

Finally the Lightening System you have all been waiting for!

Blonde is an ammonia ree highlighting system with an advanced on scalp ormulation, eaturing our unique DATEM Technology. Blonde will

provide up to 5 levels o lit in 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) DO NOT USE HEAT WHEN APPLYING ON SCALP. It is a gentle

alternative to bleach, oering superb li t with low volumes/percentages o developer, leaving the hair in excellent condition.

Blonde is ideal or use as a pre-lightener beore toners or colour.

DATEM Technology - enables maximum lit to be attained in 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) with no damage

(OFF SCALP USE).

In addition to on scalp application, any highlighting technique can be used with Blonde, e.g. oil, cap, meche etc.

Blondes unique ormulation makes the product easy to mix. I ts pleasant perume and creamy mix ensures easy application and a pleasant

experience or your client.

Blonde can be used with all volumes o developer - 3%, 6%, 9% or 12% (9 + 12% are not recommended or on scalp use).

Mixing and Application Using a non-metallic bowl, mix 15g/0.5oz Part 1 ( Blonde Crme Tube) with 25g/1oz Part 2 (1 Blonde Powder Sachet) using 15g/0.5oz to 30g/1oz

o your chosen ASP Crme Developer according to desired consistency (9 and 12% are not recommended or on scalp use).

Apply immediately ater mixing to unwashed hair using on scalp application or your desired highlighting technique, e.g. oil, cap, meche etc.

ImportantDO NOT apply to the scalp i there are any abrasions or signs o i rritation. Always use protective gloves.

ProcessingTimesON SCALP: Process or up to 30 minutes DO NOT use heat.

OFF SCALP: Process or 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F or up to 30 minutes with no heat.

Removal Rinse thoroughly.

Shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.



Coming 2011



/32 Ice Crme Ammonia Free Powder Lightener

ASP Ice Crme - Ammonia Free Powder Lightener- up to 7 levels o lit, depending on base colour.Ice Crme utilises the latest technology in powder lightening, being totally ree rom ammonia. This new technology is much kinder to the hair

producing less swelling, porosity and damage. Ice Crme is suitable or on or o scalp use. Ice Crme does not contain ammonia or other odorous

ingredients and thereore allows the use o the Apple (white powder) and Fresh Mint (Blue powder) ragrances. Ice Crmes dust ree on scalp

ormulation easily mixes to a creamy consistency. This makes or easy application and the product does not dr y or ake during the lighteningprocess. Ice Crme is recommended to be used with 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) developer. This will give sucient lit or most hair types and

bases. Ice Crme achieves levels o lit with these developers that are normally associated with using 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) developers with

traditional bleaches. For on scalp use, we recommend that only 3%(10vol) is used

Mixing InstructionsMix one scoop o powder lightener with 2 scoops o your chosen ASP Crme Developer - 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) according to lit required.

For best results use ASP Crme Developer.

ApplicationDo not wash the hair beore lightening.

Take fne sections o hair and apply bleach l iberally.

On virgin heads apply to middle lengths and ends frst, then to roots where the eect o lightening is quicker because o the scalps natural heat.On re-growth applications - do not overlap on to previously lightened hair.

ImportantDO NOT apply to the scalp i there are any abrasions or signs o i rritation. Always use protective gloves.

Processing TimesASP Ice Crme is active or up to 60 mins. For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes. Light bases may require only a short

processing time. Check requently. Remember: resistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development

o Ice Crme during process. Do Not Use Heat. When the required lit is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.

HighlightingDo not wash the hair beore application. Use desired method o highlighting, i.e. oil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply ASP Ice Crme liberally

to the hair. Check development time requently.


33/39

/33Lite High Performance Powder Bleach

ASP Lite - Dust Free Powder Bleach- up to 6-7 levels o lit, depending on base colour.Lite is a high perormance powder bleach suitable or all types o bleaching techniques. The gentle ormula can be used with 3%(10vol),

6%(20vol), 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) developers to achieve high liting power with optimum hair condition. Lite contains Hydrolysed Collagen

to eliminate damage and retain elasticity. Lite is available in both blue and white powder. For best results use ASP Crme Developer.

Mixing InstructionsMix one scoop o Lite powder with your chosen strength o ASP Crme Developer (according to lit required) until you achieve a creamy

consistency. You may vary the consistency by adding slightly dierent amounts o developer according to the technique you wish to use, i.e. ull

head, oil or cap highlights, etc.

ApplicationFull Head application, Lite should be applied to the middle lengths and ends frst and then to roots .

On re-growth - apply Lite to the roots only.

Development TimeLite is active or up to 60 minutes.

For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes.

Light bases may require only a short processing time. Check requently.

RememberResistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development o Lite during processing.

When the required lit is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.

HighlightingDo not wash the hair beore application. Use desired method o highlighting, i.e. oil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply Lite liberally to the hair.

Check development time requently.

ImportantDO NOT apply to the scalp i there are any abrasions or signs o i rritation. DO NOT mix the product in a confned space and avoid inhaling the

powder. I the product gets into the eyes wash immediately with cold water. Always use rubber gloves.

High Performance Powder Bleach



/34 Converter Converts Colour To Tone On Tone Eect

A Unique Conversion Concept which converts any Permanent Hair ColourCrme to tone on tone Eect

This unique product (2%(6.7vol)), changes any permanent hair colour into a tone on tone by reducing the ammonia level. Converter, when mixed

with permanent hair colour, will cover up to 50% white hair.

Even i you already have a range o tone on tone colour, Converter will expand your palette by enabling you to use other shades rom yourexisting permanent range. Converter can be used to introduce colour to clients and reresh aded colour.

Instructions For UseMixing1 part permanent colour - 20g/0.67oz

2 parts ASP Converter - 40g/1.35oz

ApplicationFirst Time: Apply rom roots to ends.

Retouch: Apply to roots only or 15 - 20 minutes.

To Refresh ends: Apply remaining product to ends or up to 5 minutes.

ProcessNatural hair: 20 - 25 minutes with no heat.

N.B. Use a longer process time or deeper colour results and stronger coverage o white hair.

Chemically treated and porous hair (tinted/permed): 10 - 15 minutes.

Very porous or chemically treated, bleached or immediately after perming: 3 - 15 minutes (visual development).

I using as a toner on bleached hair a strand test is recommended.

RemovalAter the processing is complete rinse well, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner. Rinse thoroughly.

Do not use heat to process colours mixed with Converter.

Do not mix Converter with high lift 12. Series.


35/39

/35Kitoko Pre-Pigmentation Gel & Spray

Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation - the Fastest Way to Revitalise Tired Colour

Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation Spray & Gel are easy to use, Pre-Pigmentation products or ull head correction work and partial re-colouration,

i.e. oiling, meches, etc.

Use on aded colour beore reresh application.

Built in porosity equaliser or more even and intensive colour results.

Can be used to enhance Red, Copper and Gold.

Can be used with any brand o permanent hair colour.

Helps to reduce colour ade.

Instructions For Use

RED - or use beore red, violet or mahogany shades or re-colouring back to base shades 1.0 to 5.0

ORANGE - or use beore copper shades or re-colouring back to base shades 6.0 to 8.0

YELLOW - or use beore gold shades or re-colouring back to base 9.0 to 10.0

ApplicationChoose your application method:

Spray - Ideal or ast application on larger areas.

Gel - Ideal or precise application on oils and meches.

1. Apply sparingly to dry hair.

2. Massage in, concentrating on the most porous areas. DO NOT RINSE. Remove excess product with paper towel. Overloading o Kitoko Instant

Pre-Pigmentation can prevent penetration o colour pigment.

3. Apply chosen permanent or tone on tone shade, and process according to manuacturers instructions.

The table below indicates correct choice o Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation depending on the target depth:

Target Depth Colour

10, 9 Yellow

8, 7, 6 Orange

5, 4, 3, 2, 1 Red



/36 Eraser Hair Colour Remover

Some Days We All Wish Our Hair Had a Reset Button

Eraser is a revolutionary, non-bleaching colour removal system or all permanent and tone on tone (e.g. Kitoko Satin) colours. It specically targets

individual articial hair colour molecules and leaves the hairs natural pigment untouched.

Eraser actively reduces the artifcial colour molecules within the hair shat and allows them to be rinsed away. Because no bleaching takes place,Eraser is a much saer and more controllable product than other bleach based colour removal systems. Eraser will not li t natural hair (hair with

no artifcial pigment), thus making colour removal easier when a regrowth is present. Eraser will not damage hair that has been previously

bleached, chemically relaxed or permed.

Unlike other colour removal systems, the low pH ormula conditions the hair, leaving it in better condition than when you started and ready or a

resh application o colour immediately.

The action of Permanent Hair ColourAn artifcial dye is generated rom small colourless molecules called intermediates. When these intermediates come into contact with peroxide,

they combine to make bigger colour molecules in a process called oxidation. This action occurs inside the hair and, when the colour processing

time is fnished, the molecules have become large enough not to exit the hair.

To remove these large molecules, we have to reduce them in size to allow them to exit the hair shat.

Eraser has the ability to do this by using a unique sulphur compound which does not damage the hair and is only eective on the artifcial colour

molecules. Cationic conditioners in Part 1 and Part 2 ensure that the hair condition is actually improved during the process.

The action of Eraser Part 1 and Part 2The unique eature o Eraser is the carrier with the reducing agent, which is the most ecient available. One o the biggest problems with this

type o product is that i the intermediates are not removed, and their action neutralised correctly, the remaining intermediates may re-oxidise

and turn darker when the next colour is applied. Eraser Is designed with a creamy base and DATEM Technology which enable the ingredients to

penetrate deep in to the hair. This makes Eraser very eective in reduction.

The action of Post EraserPost Eraser contains a unique chelating cleansing system. This will remove 100% o the ree intermediates and prevent the re-oxidisation that

causes darkening. Post Eraser also moisturises the hair and restores the natural pH, leaving it in excellent condition.

ConditionDue to its very low pH (3) and the cationic conditioners, Eraser leaves the hair sot, smooth and shiny.

Instructionsuse in a well ventilated area

Step 1. Mix equal parts o Eraser Part 1 and Part 2, i.e. 50ml : 50ml, in a non-metallic bowl or applicator bottle. This is enough working product or

1 application on short hair. Blend the mixture together or at least 1 minute (this will activate the product) and use immediately. Always apply

to dry hair, avoiding the scalp, to the area requiring colour removal and cover with a plastic cap.

Process as ollows:

Removing pale shades or unwanted tones: 5 - 15 minutes without heat.

For removal o dark, old or intense colour: 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F).

Check the hair requently until desired result is obtained.




37/39

/37Eraser Hair Colour Remover

2. When desired lightness has been achieved, rinse well or 5 minutes (or short hair, increase time or long hair) and shampoo 4 times with a

deep cleansing/clariying shampoo). ASP White Ice Deep Cleansing Shampoo is recommended due to it being SLS Free.

It is necessary to repeat the operation if the colour has not been completely eliminated. Remix fresh product and apply to dry hair.

Process as above and apply Post Eraser.

Post Eraser - InstructionsMix 50ml o Post Eraser with 40ml o water and 10ml o 6%(20vol) developer or short hair. Mix in a non-metallic bowl or applicator bottle. Blend

and apply to hair as a shampoo. Massage gently or 2-3 minutes and then rinse well. Towel dry hair and apply the chosen colour. (see below)

N.B. If the hair appears to have darkened after applying Post Eraser, this is an indication that there may be colour molecules still remaining

within the hair. If this occurs please repeat Eraser process. Remember to apply Part 1 and Part 2 to dry hair.

To achieve your chosen shade select a colour 1 shade lighter than the target shade, e.g i target colour is 7 .0, use 8.0. + 6%(20vol) ASP Crme

Developer. When re-colouring ater an Eraser process, staying on the same level or to darken, 6%(20vol) ASP Crme Developer should ALWAYS be

used. When using a liting product ollowing an Eraser process, ollow the manuacturers instructions.

When colouring back rom very old/intense/dark/red or warm colour, test the expected result by mixing a small amount o the chosen colour and

apply to a small section o hair in oil and process or ull development time.I the test produces a darker result than desired, repeat steps 1 and 2 above.

ImportantDo not use Eraser on hair treated with henna, metallic salts or true semi permanent colours.

Q & As

Q: Can I reapply the process ater Post Eraser has been used?

A: Yes

Q: How many times can I use Eraser Part 1 and Part 2?

A: As many times as is required until desired result is achieved.

Q: I the result is satisactory ater using Eraser Part 1 and Part 2, do I have to use Post Eraser?A: Yes. I Post Eraser is not used, the oxygen in the air may reactivate the pigment and cause darkening.

Q: Can I use Kitoko Satin to recolour?

A: No. The Kitoko Satin Activating Crme (2.8%) will cause a darker result than desired.

Q: Can I use Kitoko with Converter to recolour?

A: No. Converter is a low strength developer that can cause a darker result than desired.

Q: Can I create highlights ater Eraser process?

A: Yes.



/38 ASP COLOUR WHEEL

> Each ring of the colour wheel represents a level of depth.

> Darker colours are closest to the centre of the colour wheel.

> Light colours are furthest from the centre of the colour wheel.

> .0 and .00 are a unique blend of many tones from the colour wheel to create their NEUTRAL status.

Therefore they cannot be shown graphically on this wheel.

> ASP Intensives are marked on the outside of the colour wheel.

0.76 Intensives 0.76 is not shown on the colour wheel above as it cannot be accurately positioned.

ASP Colour Wheel

7.6

6.6

5.6

4.6

10.1

9.1

8.1

7.1

6.1

7.2

8.2

9.2

10.2

6.2

7.48

.49.4

6.4

5.4

4.2

2.2

7.38.3

9.310.3

10.34

9.34

8.4

3

7.4

3

6.3

5.3

4.3

7.5

6.5

5.5

7.64

6.64

1.7

0.6

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.21

0.4

8.52

4.65

.2VIOLETA

SH

.5MAHOGANY

.4C

OPPER

.6RED

.1GREENASH

.3GOLD

.7B

LUE


39/39

ASPhair.com

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Documents

ASP Technical web