BEST IN MERCHANDISE ANDTRENDS FROM ACROSS THE WORLD

AUGUST 2014 | VOL. XV | NO. 8 | `100

WGSN Polo T-Shirt TrendsReport: T-Shirt Market in IndiaINFASHION Section

SpecialShirt

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AUGUST 2014 | 172 PAGES | VOL. XV NO.8 | www.imagesfashion.com

Editor-In-Chief: Amitabh TanejaEditorial Director: R S RoyPublisher: S P TanejaHead, Knowledge & Editorial Alliances: Rajan VarmaBureau Chief (Mumbai) & Associate Editor: Gurbir Singh Gulati Sr.Correspondents: Rosy Ngaihte Sharma, Vandana Correspondent: Roshna ChandranReporter: Nipun Augustine Jacob

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Dear Reader,

Isn’t it nice that the rains are back? It’s the perfect time for you to pull a chair onto your porch/balconies and read our T-shirt special. T-shirts have indeed grown upon us. Twenty years ago the Indian almirah was almost full of woven fabrics. The vest and the sweater were the only odd ones out. Today if you peep into a young-one’s personal upper-wear collection, chances are you would fi nd that t-shirts would be outnumbering the woven shirts and tops by some margin.

The August issue of Images Business of Fashion studies the T-Shirts market in India. We then talk to some top leaders of the t-shirt revolution in the country. We also present an evolutionary history of t-shirts plus top 30 t-shirts of all time that have strengthened the category and fostered its acceptance. The global fashion forecasting company, WGSN shares a special feature on SS’15 Polo t-shirt trends for men. On the whole we will see great times for t-shirts in India, the only issue perhaps being that the Indian knitwear industry is still looking at making mostly vests, and sweaters for India.

Apart from an elaborate platter on t-shirts, the issue also features the second part of Ashmit Alag’s tips on “dos and don’ts for store makeover.” We also have a feature on HR excellence which describes what it takes to run an e-commerce business, written by industry expert Vandana Shah. Our Personality of the Month this month is Praveen Sinha, Co-founder and Managing Director of Jabong.com, who divulges the other side of his corporate profi le. The InFashion section of the issue carries a focus feature on the overall industry scenario of linen, we present trend opinions on T-shirt’s, and bring post-event highlights of several leading fashion trade events such as CMAI, GGMA, EIGMEF and more. Also the next few months calender of the upcoming international fashion trade shows around the world. Some great store design insights await you in the Sportswear International section.

Happy reading!

Amitabh Taneja

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contents | August 2014

EVERY MONTH21 Editorial

28 Letters to the Editor

32 Seasons' offerings

34 Outlets

PROLOGUE38 History of t-shirts: Necessity to new-age style

Tracing a century of the evolution - from basic under-shirt clothing to a holistic style statement

TIMELINE 40 The iconic thirty

30 t-shirts that have not only created a statement but also evolved t-shirts as a category

Q&A55 Lacoste: Comfort to Luxury

Decoding the philosophy of Lacoste, that has not only created its own classy niche but also strengthened t-shirts as a category brand

58 US Polo Assn.: Sports & Style Alok Dubey, CEO, U.S. Polo Assn. shares the essence of the brand's and its contribution to the t-shirt category

BRAND WATCH60 Value added t-shirts in demand

Akhil Jain, Creative Director, Madame shares his philosophy, production, style, and his broad thoughts on the t-shirt and knitted tops category

62 Summer surprise Duke GameDuke's new t-shirt range is about allowing its patrons to enjoy the season without fretting about sweat

84 For the conscious young consumerChlorophile produces one-of-a-kind retail certifi ed organic denim from eco-friendly sources and fair trade practises

DISTRIBUTOR'S PROFILE64 Basics Clothing eyes `30 crore sales in 2014–15 Sushil Jaju, co-owner of Basics Clothing shares the philosophy of their

company and plans in action

MY THOUGHTS66 T-shirt: Signifi cance in India and abroad

Anurag Rajpal, director & CEO of American Swan shares his vision

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PERSPECTIVE68 "Made in India"T-shirts

Manisha Bapna talks to the industry to see when India will have its own ‘Made in India’ t-shirt mega brand

FOCUS74 Wearing attitude

Megha S Roy writes on how t-shirts can encapsulate a wide range of moods and needs

TECHNOLOGY76 PUMA at the FIFA World Cup 2014

A brief on the Puma performance apparel on the football ground in Brazil

VM 78 Top ideas for store makeover

Ashmit S Alag shares how to put knowledge into practice in achieving great store makeovers

LAUNCHPAD83 Orange Tag: The ingenious menswear

A luxury label for men Orange Tag is introduced by Parul J Maurya to meet the changing fashion need of men

HR EXCELLENCE88 What it takes to run an e-commerce business

Vandana Shah underlines the magnitude of challenges faced by the people involved in running an e-commerce business

PERSONALITY OF THE MONTH91 Starting up!

Praveen Sinha, co-founder and MD, Jabong.com talks about both his personal and professional life

C O V E R S T O R Y T-SHIRT MARKET IN INDIA: CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIEST-shirts have today evolved into a dynamic, multi-purpose, multi-use, all-occasion apparel category. Amit Gugnani and Kanti Prakash Brahma from team Technopak size and study the market, and share insights on the key business trends, challenges and opportunities.

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HISTORY OF T-SHIRTS NECESSITY TO NEW-AGE STYLETHE T-SHIRT TODAY IS ONE OF THE MOST COMFORTABLE CATEGORIES. IT FINDS SPACE AT ALMOST EVERY OCCASION. IN FACT, IT IS THE COMFORT QUOTIENT THAT HAS MADE T-SHIRT THE FAVOURITE OF YOUTH ACROSS GENERATIONS. IMAGES BUSINESS OF FASHION MAPS THE HISTORY OF THIS ESSENTIAL FASHION CATEGORY TO TRACE HOW IT HAS EVOLVED FROM A BASIC UNDER-SHIRT VEST TO A HOLISTIC STYLE STATEMENT. BY VANDANA RANA

T-shirts were not always as they are today. In the 19th century they were being worn as a vest and an undergarment. During World War I, European soldiers

used to wear a light knitted under-shirt beneath their uniforms. They were viewed with envy by American troops who had to wear heavy and scratchy uniforms. And, by the World War II American navy and army also started wearing basic knitted under-shirt, which proved as a big relief from heavy and sweaty uniforms.

This was just the beginning, people copied the soldiers and soon t-shirt became popular as an undergarment. In 1910, American retailer Jacob Goldfrab started making the cotton t-shirts under his brand, Fruit of the Loom. In no time he captured the t-shirt market. By the late 1930s American brands such as Hanes, Sears and Roebuck & Co started marketing the t-shirts. P H Hanes, founded in 1901 and became Hanes in 1965 introduced a two-piece underwear which was a radical departure from the traditional one-piece union suit that is popular at that time. After the birth of t-shirts in America, the brand became one of the pioneer retailers to produce t-shirts. In 1975 Hanes came up with a heavier-weight t-shirt, called the Hanes Beefy-T, specifi cally for the screenprint industry. Later, in the same year the brand developed the screenprinter fold eliminating the additional cost and handling of individual packaging.

On the other side, sportsmen also realised the potential of t-shirts. The association of t-shirt with sports is a signifi cant chapter in the history of t-shirts. Celebrated tennis player, René Lacoste introduced Lacoste tennis shirts with French knitwear manufacturer, André Gillier. Before Lacoste sports t-shirts were invented, players were wearing button-down woven fabric, long-sleeved and starched shirts. In 1933, Lacoste came to make the logo- embroidered t-shirt designed by Lacoste for his own use in the tennis court. Then, Lacoste t-shirts were also marketed to number of other tennis, golf and sailing shirts. The fi rst Lacoste shirt was white, slightly shorter than other shirts of the day, with a ribbed collar and short sleeves. It was made

prologue

HANES BEEFY T-SHIRT INTRODUCED IN 1975

JOHN F KENNEDY CAMPAIGN T-SHIRT

I LIKE IKE T-SHIRT CAME AROUND 50S

A MAN WEARING T-SHIRT WAS FEATURED ON THE COVER OF LIFE MAGAZINE IN 1942

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50 | August 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

cover story

FROM THEIR BEGINNING, OVER A CENTURY AGO, T-SHIRTS HAVE TODAY EVOLVED INTO A DYNAMIC, MULTI-PURPOSE, MULTI-USE, ALL-OCCASION APPAREL CATEGORY. AMIT GUGNANI, SVP, FASHION - TEXTILE AND APPAREL AND KANTI PRAKASH BRAHMA, PRINCIPAL CONSULTANT, FASHION AT TECHNOPAK SIZE AND STUDY THE MARKET, AND SHARE INSIGHTS ON THE KEY BUSINESS TRENDS, CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES.

T-SHIRT MARKET IN INDIA:CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES

MARKET SIZEIndia’s `12,200 crore-worth t-shirt market is expected to grow at an impressive CAGR of 12 percent to reach `21,250 crore by 2018. This market, which includes knit shirts, polo shirts, knit tops, etc., is presently dominated by the men’s and boys’ segments, which contribute 85 percent of the market share. The women’s and girls’ segments are, on the other hand, expected to register a higher CAGR of 14 percent over the next fi ve years, compared to the 11 percent growth anticipated for the men’s and boys’ segments. The expected faster growth of women’s and girls’ t-shirts may be attributed to the comparatively lower base of market size and increasing acceptance of casual clothing among women. As a matter of fact, the t-shirts category is one of the top high-growth categories in men’s, women’s and kids’ apparel in India.

Consumers’ wardrobes, in India and across the world, are undergoing a distinct shift – from formal clothing to a greater preference for trendy and casual attire.

This trend towards casualisation has provided a boost to the t-shirt market. Their greater level of comfort, superior feel, affordability and fashionableness makes t-shirts an attractive apparel category across consumer segments. The formal mass introduction of t-shirts happened perhaps with the introduction of crewnecks for soldiers as uniforms by the US Navy. Since then in a very fast paced journey, t-shirts have evolved into a dynamic, multipurpose, multiuse, all-occasion apparel category across the globe. India too offers no exception to this trend.

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contents | August 2014

E X C L U S I V EPOLO SHIRTS: SS ’15 MEN’S COMMERCIAL UPDATEMatt Feniger of WGSN shares some smartened-up styles, reworked stripes and updates plackets

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112 102I N N O V A T I O NSUBDUED GLAMOUR

Asmita Agggarwal writes on creative

embroideries and trims adopted by various

designers

T R E N D ST-SHIRT TALKImages BoF talks to key t-shirt brands to take a look at what are the signifi cant trends in t-shirt industry

T R A D E W I N DOGA: GARMENT TRADE FAIR 2014

EIGMEF:TURNAROUND 2014

CMAI: 59TH NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR

GGMA:23RD NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR 2014

CAA: STYLE SYNC 2014GMWA: 16TH GARMENTS FAIR, 2014

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116F E A T U R ELONG LIVE LINENZainab Morbiwala writes about linen fi bre and its potential in India

122D E S I G N

THE WOOLMARK PRIZE

‘The Emperor 1688’ and ‘Bird on a Wire’ were

chosen winners for India and Middle East regional fi nal at the International Woolmark Prize 2014–15

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102 | August 2014 | IMAGES Business of Fashion

trends

THE T-SHIRT CATEGORY IS COMING OF AGE; WHILE 15 YEARS AGO, THE SUMMER UPPERWEAR MARKET SHARE WAS BETWEEN 80 PERCENT; 90 PERCENT WOVEN IN TERMS OF NUMBER OF PIECES SOLD. TODAY IT HAS GONE TO CLOSE TO 30 PERCENT AND IS EXPECTED TO GROW. MEN HAVE BEEN SLIGHTLY QUICKER THAN WOMEN TO ACCEPT THIS CHANGE. TEAM IMAGES BOF TALKS TO KEY T-SHIRT BRANDS TO TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT ARE THE SIGNIFICANT TRENDS THAT HAVE EMERGED IN T-SHIRT INDUSTRY OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS. ALSO WHAT ARE THE NEW TRENDS EMERGING. WE ALSO ASKED BRANDS TO SHARE THEIR CURRENT FOLIOS AND MAP WHICH SEGMENTS AND COLOURS ARE RULING THE ROOST RIGHT NOW. THERE WAS AN OVERWHELMING RESPONSE FROM ALL PLAYERS FOR 100 PER CENT COTTON AS THE MOST PREFERRED FABRIC BY SOME QUITE GOOD MARGIN. BY NIPUN AUGUSTINE JACOB

T-SHIRT TALK

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contents

DENIM AND FASHION TRENDS – CAPSULE FOR INDIA

Editor-in-Chief: Sabine KühnlCreative Director: Gian Luca FracassiSenior Editors: Maria Cristina Pavarini/Christopher BlomquistFashion Editor: Juliette NguyenManaging Editor: Wolfgang Lutterbach

Credits for India Capsule

FACTS | BRAND138 The dark knight rises

Skingraft, LA’s favorite leather-infused sportwear label, is gearing up for expansion

140 The graduateAt Timezone people are ready for the next chapter of the story: with new manpower, streamlined processes and a collection statement which is more self-assured and modern

FACTS | PEOPLE 142 Coming home

FASHION | TRENDS144 L A confi dential Los Angeles style is as spread out as its suburbs

FASHION | ACCESSORIES146 Top hat Glady’s Tamez is millier to the stars

FACTS | RETAIL149 Coming to America New Zealand’s fabric store makes its LA debut

150 Artifi cial intelligenceMore and more consumers shop online; how can retailers benefi t from this purchasing behaviour?

153 For the boysSaks Fifth Avenue rolls out its new men’s store concept in Beverly Hills

FACTS | SHOW159 The world is not enough

The fashion industry is travelling around the globe from one stop to the next; and the calender of international fashion events is getting longer and longer

FACTS | STORES164 The shop around the corner

Fascinating, camera-ready stores not only at your corner but all over the world

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IMAGES Business of Fashion | Capsule for India – Sportswear International | August 2014 | 149

facts | retail

> Ask any seasoned traveler and he will tell you, “Kiwis are cool!” After all,

New Zealand has arguably cornered the market on gorgeous scenery and

friendly, diverse people. But, it turns out, Kiwis have their favorite travel desti-

nations too and, sometimes, when it’s the right fit, it makes sense to stay. “We

love the laid-back California lifestyle and the people. It struck a chord with

us,” says Jasmine Cucksey, general manager of New Zealand’s Fabric Store.

The Fabric Store’s name says it all. Established in 1995, owner Roger Wall

started with a single store in Christchurch, selling leftover fabrics from his

wholesale business. By 2002, New Zealand’s popular home-sewing industry

created enough demand for two more stores and an expansion to Australia in

2008.

The recent opening of the now Auckland-based company’s Fabric Store Los

Angeles outpost at 136 S. La Brea Ave. in Hancock Park might seem a strange

jump at first. But there actually are a lot of similarities between scenic New

Zealand and sunny Los Angeles. “The culture of recycling and sustainability,

healthy living, whole foods and general wellness parallels the New Zealand way

of life. So it was easy to imagine The Fabric Store fitting into LA organically with-

out having to make changes to our philosophy and the way we function and trade

day to day,” Cucksey adds.

Consider, also, costume design for movies. “The film industry has been a huge

part of the company’s success over the years,” says Cucksey. “Starting with Peter

Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy, The Fabric Store has become a major fabric

supplier to a spate of New Zealand filmed big budget films and TV series. The

incredible quality, diverse range and uniqueness of the fabrics we stock have

made us the go-to supplier for both costume and set design.” And, sure enough,

the LA location, open only since September 2013, has already seen its share of

industry names. “Anne Hathaway popped in buying fabrics for a ghost costume,”

Cucksey adds with enthusiasm. “As our range is very fashion-focused and edgy,

we also have several stylists who have become firm regulars in LA, sourcing for

their high-profile clients, including Cher’s stylists purchasing a roll of sequined

fabric for an upcoming tour.”

For LA home sewers and industry professionals alike, The Fabric Store has

been a breath of fresh air. “Our layout is beautiful,” says Allison Vanos, the store

manager in LA. “We show the fabric in color stories, which is unlike most fabric

stores. It’s really inviting and fresh and we always change things around. Plus,

everyone who works in the store knows how to sew so we can make suggestions

and be personable with our customers.”

With fabrics ranging from about $8 to $30 a yard and a staff quite happy to com-

plete mail orders or accept sample requests via the company’s web-site, the US

flagship is not just bringing sustainability to the US market but also the com-

pany’s valued merino wool jersey. “New Zealand merino wool jersey is a product

prized by designers such as Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang and Karen Walker for its

lightweight texture, beautiful drape and incredible softness,” says Cucksey. “Our

ethically sourced merino products are wildly popular throughout Australasia and

we are super excited to be bringing this revolutionary New Zealand made product

to the US creative community!”

IMPRESSIONS FROM THE NEWEST BRANCH OF THE FABRIC STORE IN LOS ANGELES

COMING TO AMERICANEW ZEALAND’S FABRIC STORE MAKES ITS L.A. DEBUT. BY REBECCA PAIEMENT

“The film industry has been a huge part of the company’s success over the years.” — Jasmine Cucksey

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