cloud 10.TM

Discover

Complimentary

Wi-Fi

Complimentary

Priority Security Lane†

Complimentary

Valet†††

Complimentary

Lounge Access††

15% Parking Discount††††

An elevated travel experience at

Toronto Pearson International Airport.

Visit amexcloud10.ca to discover

premium travel benefits.*

It’s all part of the service.

*Only on select cards. Terms and Conditions apply. TM, ®: Used by Amex Bank of Canada under license from American Express. ®*: Aeroplan and AeroplanPlus are registered

trademarks of Aimia Canada Inc. ®†, TM†: Trademarks of AIR MILES International Trading B.V. Used under license by LoyaltyOne, Inc. and Amex Bank of Canada. †Conditions

apply. Select American Express® Cards are eligible for this beneft: The Centurion® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express®

AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express Corporate

Platinum Card, and the American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. ††Air Canada Maple Leaf Lounge Access is a card beneft available to: The Centurion® Card

from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. Plaza Premium Lounge

Access is a card beneft available to: The Centurion® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve

Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, and The American Express Corporate Platinum Card. †††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible

for this beneft: The Centurion® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The

Business Platinum Card® from American Express. Toronto Pearson Valet Care Service – Basic and Supplementary Platinum Card members must present a valid, unexpired

Platinum Card when picking up vehicle for $25 Valet fee to be waived, provided the associated parking fee is charged to your Platinum Card. Waived fee applies only to Toronto

Pearson Airport Valet Services in Terminal 1 and 3. For more information on Valet Service visit torontopearson.com. ††††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible for

this beneft: The Centurion® card from American Express, the American Express Platinum Card, the American Express AeroplanPlus Platinum Card, and The Business Platinum

Card from American Express.

OGILVY DIVISION PUB: Away Toronto Pearson AD #: AM-BR4-2014-FP-GTAAway

Print Production Contact: FORMAT: Magazine FILE:01-40140-AM-BR4-2014-FP-GTAAway-SWOP.pdf

Chris Rozak TRIM: 6.5" x 10.5" CLIENT: American Express

RedWorks Delivery/Technical Support: (416) 945-2388 JOB #: P.AP.AP ADV.14124.K.011

O G I LV Y O P E R AT O R

E G

PA S S

F i n a l

S:6”

S:1

0”

T:6.5”

T:1

0.5

”

B:6.75”

B:1

0.7

5”

A GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRAVEL, SHOPPING AND FUN II WINTER 2015

LOSE YOURSELF IN LIMA Plus GREAT ESCAPES TO MIAMI, MUMBAI, BERLIN and MORE

Job

Client

Ad #

Release Dt

Insert Dt

Live

Trim

Bleed

Release Info

Pubs

CI1-GT1-P45640

CIBC

P45640 - GTAA - LEAF

Monday, November 24, 2014

Monday, December 15, 2014

6” x 10”

6.5” x 10.5”

6.75” x 10.75”

None

AWAY Magazine

Job info

GTAA Service Messaging Print

Notes

Art Director

Copywriter

Account Mgr

Studio Artist

Proofreader

Producer

Matt

Mike

Tracy

Phil

Angie

Toby

Approvals

Fonts

Frutiger LT Std (65 Bold, 57 Condensed)

Images

Leafs_Magazine.ai (107.53%), CIBC_CR_

KEY_2C_CMYK.ai (34.82%), New_L_face-

book_4C.ai (6.81%), L_Twitter-bird-blue_4C.

ai (8.01%)

Inks

Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black

Fonts & Images

T11-0738

P45640 - GTAA - AWAY.inddTalledes, Phil / Talledes, Phil Nonefrom by Printed At

REV: 111-24-2014 3:13 PM

33 Bloor Street East, 14th Floor,

Toronto, ON, Canada M4W 3H1

main: 416.413.7301

fax: 416.972.5486

Bank before you fy.With new CIBC branches right at Toronto Pearson, you can do your banking

before you board. Get foreign cash, purchase travel insurance or tell us

about your travel plans, so you can shop abroad hassle-free. Visit one of

our new airport branches or look for our multi-currency ATMs. Bon voyage!

Another way CIBC makes it easier to bank where, when

and how you wantTM.

cibc.com

CIBC and related marks are trademarks of CIBC.

S:6”S:10”

T:6.5”T:10.5”

B:6.75”B

:10.75”

WINTER 2015 AWAY 3

exp lorer

Mucho PiscoAn all-consuming journey to Lima, Peru, the world’s new culinary capital

Fresh TracksWith its fat snowfalls and thin crowds, the St. Elias Mountains are a winter paradise

Just Add WaterThe best, most beautiful winter-escaping islands (for all budgets)

Miami’s New ViceThe rise of the Design District, from a derelict downtown ’hood to the chicest hub in Florida

38

WINTER 2015 VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1

24

32

38

44

PHO

TOG

RAPH

CO

URT

ESY

HIX

ISLA

ND

HO

USE

EXPLORER

Lima, p24

DETOURS

Mumbai, p54

EXPLORER

Miami, p44

EXPLORER

Kluane, p32

DETOURS

Berlin, p51

DETOURS

Toronto, p55

ON THE COVER II Illustration by Fumio Watanabe, Photograph by Jason Sullivan, Model Claudia Luque

Job

Client

Ad #

Release Dt

Insert Dt

Live

Trim

Bleed

Release Info

Pubs

CI1-GT1-P45640

CIBC

P45640 - GTAA - LEAF

Monday, November 24, 2014

Monday, December 15, 2014

6” x 10”

6.5” x 10.5”

6.75” x 10.75”

None

AWAY Magazine

Job info

GTAA Service Messaging Print

Notes

Art Director

Copywriter

Account Mgr

Studio Artist

Proofreader

Producer

Matt

Mike

Tracy

Phil

Angie

Toby

Approvals

Fonts

Frutiger LT Std (65 Bold, 57 Condensed)

Images

Leafs_Magazine.ai (107.53%), CIBC_CR_

KEY_2C_CMYK.ai (34.82%), New_L_face-

book_4C.ai (6.81%), L_Twitter-bird-blue_4C.

ai (8.01%)

Inks

Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black

Fonts & Images

T11-0738

P45640 - GTAA - AWAY.inddTalledes, Phil / Talledes, Phil Nonefrom by Printed At

REV: 111-24-2014 3:13 PM

33 Bloor Street East, 14th Floor,

Toronto, ON, Canada M4W 3H1

main: 416.413.7301

fax: 416.972.5486

Bank before you fy.With new CIBC branches right at Toronto Pearson, you can do your banking

before you board. Get foreign cash, purchase travel insurance or tell us

about your travel plans, so you can shop abroad hassle-free. Visit one of

our new airport branches or look for our multi-currency ATMs. Bon voyage!

Another way CIBC makes it easier to bank where, when

and how you wantTM.

cibc.com

CIBC and related marks are trademarks of CIBC.

S:6”

S:10”

T:6.5”

T:10.5”

B:6.75”

B:10.75”

WINTER 2015 AWAY 3

exp lorer

Mucho PiscoAn all-consuming journey to Lima, Peru, the world’s new culinary capital

Fresh TracksWith its fat snowfalls and thin crowds, the St. Elias Mountains are a winter paradise

Just Add WaterThe best, most beautiful winter-escaping islands (for all budgets)

Miami’s New ViceThe rise of the Design District, from a derelict downtown ’hood to the chicest hub in Florida

38

WINTER 2015 VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1

24

32

38

44

PHO

TOG

RAPH

CO

URT

ESY

HIX

ISLA

ND

HO

USE

EXPLORER

Lima, p24

DETOURS

Mumbai, p54

EXPLORER

Miami, p44

EXPLORER

Kluane, p32

DETOURS

Berlin, p51

DETOURS

Toronto, p55

ON THE COVER II Illustration by Fumio Watanabe, Photograph by Jason Sullivan, Model Claudia Luque

4 AWAY WINTER 2015

d e t o u r s

51 II Berlin A city of pockets, corners and alleys. Your guide: writer R. M. Vaughan54 II Mumbai A brash megacity with unexpectedly mellow respites. Your guide: architect Rooshad Shroff55 II Toronto A city of neighbourhoods. Your guide: designer Sarah Richardson

way f i n d e r

57 II Maps Navigating Toronto Pearson Terminal 1 and Terminal 3

j e t a g e

62 II 1964 The whirlwind courtship of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton

I N S I D E R

9 II On the Ground Thousands of people pass through Richard Serra’s massive sculpture every day10 II Pearson Person De-icing queen Glynys Jones knows her snow12 II Anatomy Bombardier’s $70-million private jet16 II Checking In We’re people- watching at the departure lounges

t h e l i s t

19 II Air Fare Halal Middle Eastern cuisine lands at Toronto Pearson20 II Style and Beauty Sunny accessories for the beach22 II Gifts Cool aids from the country that does winter best 23 II Et Cetera Five totally satisfying ways to kill time 23 II My Carry-ons Hockey Night in Canada host George Stroumboulopoulos shows us what’s in his bag

51

16

20

PHO

TOG

RAPH

S BY

(CLO

CKW

ISE)

EM

MA

MCI

NTY

RE, W

ILKO

SZ A

ND

WAY

, VIC

KY L

AM

4 AWAY WINTER 2015

d e t o u r s

51 II Berlin A city of pockets, corners and alleys. Your guide: writer R. M. Vaughan54 II Mumbai A brash megacity with unexpectedly mellow respites. Your guide: architect Rooshad Shroff55 II Toronto A city of neighbourhoods. Your guide: designer Sarah Richardson

way f i n d e r

57 II Maps Navigating Toronto Pearson Terminal 1 and Terminal 3

j e t a g e

62 II 1964 The whirlwind courtship of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton

I N S I D E R

9 II On the Ground Thousands of people pass through Richard Serra’s massive sculpture every day10 II Pearson Person De-icing queen Glynys Jones knows her snow12 II Anatomy Bombardier’s $70-million private jet16 II Checking In We’re people- watching at the departure lounges

t h e l i s t

19 II Air Fare Halal Middle Eastern cuisine lands at Toronto Pearson20 II Style and Beauty Sunny accessories for the beach22 II Gifts Cool aids from the country that does winter best 23 II Et Cetera Five totally satisfying ways to kill time 23 II My Carry-ons Hockey Night in Canada host George Stroumboulopoulos shows us what’s in his bag

51

16

20

PHO

TOG

RAPH

S BY

(CLO

CKW

ISE)

EM

MA

MCI

NTY

RE, W

ILKO

SZ A

ND

WAY

, VIC

KY L

AM

Winter 2015 Volume 1, Issue 1

CO-PUBLISHERSDeborah Trepanier, Douglas Kelly

Account Manager Gayle Matthews

EDITORIALEditorial Director Maryam Sanati

Editor Deborah StokesSenior Editor Conan Tobias

ARTCreative Director Una JanicijevicArt Director Colleen Nicholson

Photo Editor Liz Ikiriko

CONTRIBUTORSGraciela Cattarossi, Alice Cho, Doublenaut, Watanabe Fumio,

Paul Gallant, Jean Grant, Nicola Hamilton, Bronwen Jervis, Vicky Lam, Reynard Li, Alex Mathers, Emma McIntyre, Simone Olivero,

Jean François Porchez, Corinna Reeves, Rooshad Shroff, Jason Sullivan, Sarah Treleaven, R. M. Vaughan, Antonia Whyatt, Wilkosz & Way, John Zada

PRODUCTIONProduction Director Maria MendesProduction Manager Jennifer Shute

Prepress Co-ordinator Jonathan Gault

TORONTO PEARSON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPresident and CEO Howard Eng

Vice-President, Customer and Terminal Services Scott Collier Vice-President, Stakeholder Relations and

Communications Hillary Marshall Associate Director, Retail and Food Programs Janine Gervais Associate Director, Advertising and Partnerships Sergio Pulla

Manager, Retail Marketing Erin Kennedy

ST. JOSEPH MEDIAChairman Tony GaglianoPresident Douglas Knight

General Manager and Vice-President, Finance Karl PercyVice-President, Digital Ken Hunt

Vice-President, Research Clarence PoirierVice-President, Marketing and Production Darlene Storey

Human Resources Director Catheryn KendallController Dora Brenndorfer

Director, Information and Digital Technology Prasad Gokhale

CONTACT USGreater Toronto Airports Authority

Corporate Affairs and Communications Toronto Pearson International Airport

P.O. Box 6031, 3111 Convair Drive Toronto AMF, Ontario L5P 1B2 Canada (416) 776-3000

For editorial, contact: AWAY 111 Queen Street East, Suite 320, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1S2

away@stjosephmedia.com (416) 364-3333

For sales, contact: Gayle Matthewsgmatthews@stjosephmedia.com (647) 272-9464

AWAY is published four times per year by St. Joseph Media Inc. on behalf of the Greater Toronto Airports Authority (GTAA). © 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced in any form without the consent of the GTAA.

The GTAA is not responsible for any errors or omissions contained in this publication. Printed in Canada by St. Joseph Printing.

ALSO AVAILABLE

IN A DIGITAL EDITION

FOR YOUR DESKTOP, LAPTOP

AND TABLET

L'ÉDITION FRANÇAISE DU MAGAZINE AWAY

EST ÉGALEMENT DISPONIBLE SUR VOTRE

ORDINATEUR DE BUREAU, ORDINATEUR

PORTABLE ET TABLETTE

TORONTOPEARSON.COM

GO TO

ACCÉDEZ AU

Dear Toronto Pearson Passenger,As a young child growing up in Alberta, I was fascinated by air travel. I would hound my par-ents to take me to the airport so I could watch the planes come and go. The excitement of seeing people rush to catch their flights, family members being welcomed home, the sense of wonder (or perhaps trepidation) at the thought of boarding one of the massive metal birds—these memories stayed with me. Today, I have the great privilege of operating Canada’s larg-est airport: Toronto Pearson.

An airport the size of Toronto Pearson serves many roles. Pearson is a catalyst for economic growth, bringing trade, jobs and tourism to the region. It’s also the first entry point for many new Canadians arriving in our country. In fact, some call it Canada’s new Pier 21, in reference to the Halifax gateway where approximately one million immigrants entered Canada for the first time between 1928 and 1971. No mat-ter what reason you are travelling to, from or through Toronto Pearson, we want to provide you with the best possible travel experience.

Take a look around our terminals and you’ll find many positive and exciting changes, in-cluding this inaugural issue of Away, Toronto Pearson’s magazine covering travel trends and destinations, as well as airport innovations. Away’s maps can lead you through the termi-nals and show you where to find your favourite cup of coffee or a gift to take home or lead you to our expanded duty-free offerings. (Toronto Pearson is also on Google Indoor Maps.)

We’ve worked with our partners to bring inter-nationally recognized brands like Coach, Burb-erry, Longchamp and Victoria’s Secret to Toronto Pearson. When you’re ready to relax, you can find several lounges decked out with iPads to keep you entertained or take a moment to enjoy one of our delightful dining options. Toronto Pearson is pleased to present you with a high-quality dining experience, offering everything from local flavours to familiar brands that reflect the foodcentric culture of Toronto and the region. Among the other enhancements at our airport are free baggage carts, improved Wi-Fi service and our new Toronto Pearson International Airport mobile app that gives you updates on flight arrivals and departures.

Toronto Pearson is truly like a small city, waiting to be explored and discovered, and there are tens of thousands of us who work here each day, ready to serve you. Think of us as your gateway to the world.

Enjoy your journey, and come back to visit us again soon.

Bon voyage,Howard Eng President and CEO

WINTER 2015 AWAY 7

PRESIDENT’S LETTER

WELCOME TO AWAYToronto Pearson is a gateway to the world.

It’s also a destination waiting to be discovered

Winter 2015 Volume 1, Issue 1

CO-PUBLISHERSDeborah Trepanier, Douglas Kelly

Account Manager Gayle Matthews

EDITORIALEditorial Director Maryam Sanati

Editor Deborah StokesSenior Editor Conan Tobias

ARTCreative Director Una JanicijevicArt Director Colleen Nicholson

Photo Editor Liz Ikiriko

CONTRIBUTORSGraciela Cattarossi, Alice Cho, Doublenaut, Watanabe Fumio,

Paul Gallant, Jean Grant, Nicola Hamilton, Bronwen Jervis, Vicky Lam, Reynard Li, Alex Mathers, Emma McIntyre, Simone Olivero,

Jean François Porchez, Corinna Reeves, Rooshad Shroff, Jason Sullivan, Sarah Treleaven, R. M. Vaughan, Antonia Whyatt, Wilkosz & Way, John Zada

PRODUCTIONProduction Director Maria MendesProduction Manager Jennifer Shute

Prepress Co-ordinator Jonathan Gault

TORONTO PEARSON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPresident and CEO Howard Eng

Vice-President, Customer and Terminal Services Scott Collier Vice-President, Stakeholder Relations and

Communications Hillary Marshall Associate Director, Retail and Food Programs Janine Gervais Associate Director, Advertising and Partnerships Sergio Pulla

Manager, Retail Marketing Erin Kennedy

ST. JOSEPH MEDIAChairman Tony GaglianoPresident Douglas Knight

General Manager and Vice-President, Finance Karl PercyVice-President, Digital Ken Hunt

Vice-President, Research Clarence PoirierVice-President, Marketing and Production Darlene Storey

Human Resources Director Catheryn KendallController Dora Brenndorfer

Director, Information and Digital Technology Prasad Gokhale

CONTACT USGreater Toronto Airports Authority

Corporate Affairs and Communications Toronto Pearson International Airport

P.O. Box 6031, 3111 Convair Drive Toronto AMF, Ontario L5P 1B2 Canada (416) 776-3000

For editorial, contact: AWAY 111 Queen Street East, Suite 320, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1S2

away@stjosephmedia.com (416) 364-3333

For sales, contact: Gayle Matthewsgmatthews@stjosephmedia.com (647) 272-9464

AWAY is published four times per year by St. Joseph Media Inc. on behalf of the Greater Toronto Airports Authority (GTAA). © 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced in any form without the consent of the GTAA.

The GTAA is not responsible for any errors or omissions contained in this publication. Printed in Canada by St. Joseph Printing.

ALSO AVAILABLE

IN A DIGITAL EDITION

FOR YOUR DESKTOP, LAPTOP

AND TABLET

L'ÉDITION FRANÇAISE DU MAGAZINE AWAY

EST ÉGALEMENT DISPONIBLE SUR VOTRE

ORDINATEUR DE BUREAU, ORDINATEUR

PORTABLE ET TABLETTE

TORONTOPEARSON.COM

GO TO

ACCÉDEZ AU

Dear Toronto Pearson Passenger,As a young child growing up in Alberta, I was fascinated by air travel. I would hound my par-ents to take me to the airport so I could watch the planes come and go. The excitement of seeing people rush to catch their flights, family members being welcomed home, the sense of wonder (or perhaps trepidation) at the thought of boarding one of the massive metal birds—these memories stayed with me. Today, I have the great privilege of operating Canada’s larg-est airport: Toronto Pearson.

An airport the size of Toronto Pearson serves many roles. Pearson is a catalyst for economic growth, bringing trade, jobs and tourism to the region. It’s also the first entry point for many new Canadians arriving in our country. In fact, some call it Canada’s new Pier 21, in reference to the Halifax gateway where approximately one million immigrants entered Canada for the first time between 1928 and 1971. No mat-ter what reason you are travelling to, from or through Toronto Pearson, we want to provide you with the best possible travel experience.

Take a look around our terminals and you’ll find many positive and exciting changes, in-cluding this inaugural issue of Away, Toronto Pearson’s magazine covering travel trends and destinations, as well as airport innovations. Away’s maps can lead you through the termi-nals and show you where to find your favourite cup of coffee or a gift to take home or lead you to our expanded duty-free offerings. (Toronto Pearson is also on Google Indoor Maps.)

We’ve worked with our partners to bring inter-nationally recognized brands like Coach, Burb-erry, Longchamp and Victoria’s Secret to Toronto Pearson. When you’re ready to relax, you can find several lounges decked out with iPads to keep you entertained or take a moment to enjoy one of our delightful dining options. Toronto Pearson is pleased to present you with a high-quality dining experience, offering everything from local flavours to familiar brands that reflect the foodcentric culture of Toronto and the region. Among the other enhancements at our airport are free baggage carts, improved Wi-Fi service and our new Toronto Pearson International Airport mobile app that gives you updates on flight arrivals and departures.

Toronto Pearson is truly like a small city, waiting to be explored and discovered, and there are tens of thousands of us who work here each day, ready to serve you. Think of us as your gateway to the world.

Enjoy your journey, and come back to visit us again soon.

Bon voyage,Howard Eng President and CEO

WINTER 2015 AWAY 7

PRESIDENT’S LETTER

WELCOME TO AWAYToronto Pearson is a gateway to the world.

It’s also a destination waiting to be discovered

In both scale and spirit, Tilted Spheres (above) is a massive work. Richard Serra’s masterful steel sculpture—consisting of four semi-circles leaning into a hollow core—dominates its space at Toronto Pearson’s Terminal 1. Tens of thousands of people move through the piece every day, their steps and voices echoing inside the rounded metal. It’s the most iconic piece in the airport’s varied permanent collection, and a companion to a group of rotating exhibits created in partnership with artists and cultural institutions. The total effect is eclectic and surprising, not to mention an edifying way to pass the time.

I N S I D E RTHE SECRET LIFE OF TORONTO PEARSON

ON THE GROUND

SPACE INVADERSWorks of art that go with the flow

WHILE YOU’RE THERECheck out Time Flies: The Airport

at 75, an exhibition of archival finds. Through March 29. Malton

Airport Gallery, Terminal 1

WINTER 2015 AWAY 9

PHO

TOG

RAPH

BY

REYN

ARD

LI

In both scale and spirit, Tilted Spheres (above) is a massive work. Richard Serra’s masterful steel sculpture—consisting of four semi-circles leaning into a hollow core—dominates its space at Toronto Pearson’s Terminal 1. Tens of thousands of people move through the piece every day, their steps and voices echoing inside the rounded metal. It’s the most iconic piece in the airport’s varied permanent collection, and a companion to a group of rotating exhibits created in partnership with artists and cultural institutions. The total effect is eclectic and surprising, not to mention an edifying way to pass the time.

I N S I D E RTHE SECRET LIFE OF TORONTO PEARSON

ON THE GROUND

SPACE INVADERSWorks of art that go with the flow

WHILE YOU’RE THERECheck out Time Flies: The Airport

at 75, an exhibition of archival finds. Through March 29. Malton

Airport Gallery, Terminal 1

WINTER 2015 AWAY 9

PHO

TOG

RAPH

BY

REYN

ARD

LI

CIBCad_GTAA_MAZ_1b.indd 1 2014-12-02 9:27 AM

10 AWAY WINTER 2015

I N S I D E R

Toronto may not be the cold-est city in the world, but the weather from the Great Lakes makes the snow here especial-ly wet and heavy. So Toronto Pearson’s de-icing team, the largest centralized operation of its kind in the world, has one of the airport’s toughest jobs. Each winter, more than 150 workers remove icy buildup from some 17,000 planes—as many as 400 to 500 a day.

Do they call you “the de-icing queen”?I get that a lot. There aren’t many women in de-icing.

I started as a de-icing inspec-tor and then I was a de-icing officer until I took a role in management.

How did you get into this line of work?When I started here 14 years ago, my niche was the environ-ment. The airport was taking a close look at stormwater, ensuring the water quality and making sure the de-icing fluids weren’t getting into the water-ways. I graduated with a degree in environmental studies from the University of Waterloo. I didn’t know anything about

PEARSON PERSON

FROZEN ASSETAs a manager of one of the world’s largest de-icing operations, Glynys Jones really knows her snowBY PAUL GALLANT

de-icing. I didn’t know about aircraft types, like the differ-ence between a 737 and a 767. I had to learn all that.

Is there an art to getting the planes ice-free? The operator has to be as close as possible to the surface he's spraying because heat and fluid pressure are removing the contamination. Over-night aircraft are the worst because heavy snow falls and ice builds up on the aircraft's critical surfaces. That crusty, compacted snow can be very difficult to remove. You can also have something called clear ice, where the plane looks clean but there’s actually a thin layer of ice that’s very difficult to see. You have to do what’s called a tactile, where a crew member gets out of his truck and completes a physi-cal inspection of the plane to make sure there isn’t any ice on the aircraft. Tactiles take a lot of time.

What are the biggest challenges of the job?The de-icing operation can start as early as 6 a.m. and go to 3 a.m. the next day. When you’re in a storm, you’re there for the whole event, even if you have to go and get some sleep and come back again. When the weather is really bad and most people are stay-ing home, those are the days when we have to go to work.

Do you ever get a chance to escape the cold?I like the heat, lying on a beach. But those of us with snow-demanding jobs don’t get to travel in the winter. I was once on a plane on a cold October morning and we had to get a quick frost spray. I had never seen the operation from the inside of a plane before. My face was pressed to the glass the whole time. PH

OTO

GRA

PH B

Y RE

YNA

RD L

I

CIBCad_GTAA_MAZ_1b.indd 1 2014-12-02 9:27 AM

10 AWAY WINTER 2015

I N S I D E R

Toronto may not be the cold-est city in the world, but the weather from the Great Lakes makes the snow here especial-ly wet and heavy. So Toronto Pearson’s de-icing team, the largest centralized operation of its kind in the world, has one of the airport’s toughest jobs. Each winter, more than 150 workers remove icy buildup from some 17,000 planes—as many as 400 to 500 a day.

Do they call you “the de-icing queen”?I get that a lot. There aren’t many women in de-icing.

I started as a de-icing inspec-tor and then I was a de-icing officer until I took a role in management.

How did you get into this line of work?When I started here 14 years ago, my niche was the environ-ment. The airport was taking a close look at stormwater, ensuring the water quality and making sure the de-icing fluids weren’t getting into the water-ways. I graduated with a degree in environmental studies from the University of Waterloo. I didn’t know anything about

PEARSON PERSON

FROZEN ASSETAs a manager of one of the world’s largest de-icing operations, Glynys Jones really knows her snowBY PAUL GALLANT

de-icing. I didn’t know about aircraft types, like the differ-ence between a 737 and a 767. I had to learn all that.

Is there an art to getting the planes ice-free? The operator has to be as close as possible to the surface he's spraying because heat and fluid pressure are removing the contamination. Over-night aircraft are the worst because heavy snow falls and ice builds up on the aircraft's critical surfaces. That crusty, compacted snow can be very difficult to remove. You can also have something called clear ice, where the plane looks clean but there’s actually a thin layer of ice that’s very difficult to see. You have to do what’s called a tactile, where a crew member gets out of his truck and completes a physi-cal inspection of the plane to make sure there isn’t any ice on the aircraft. Tactiles take a lot of time.

What are the biggest challenges of the job?The de-icing operation can start as early as 6 a.m. and go to 3 a.m. the next day. When you’re in a storm, you’re there for the whole event, even if you have to go and get some sleep and come back again. When the weather is really bad and most people are stay-ing home, those are the days when we have to go to work.

Do you ever get a chance to escape the cold?I like the heat, lying on a beach. But those of us with snow-demanding jobs don’t get to travel in the winter. I was once on a plane on a cold October morning and we had to get a quick frost spray. I had never seen the operation from the inside of a plane before. My face was pressed to the glass the whole time. PH

OTO

GRA

PH B

Y RE

YNA

RD L

I

WINTER 2015 AWAY 13

2

1

3

ANATOMY

RAREFIED AIRBombardier’s Global 7000 is the ultimate private jet:

ultra-comfortable, ultra-long-range and ultra-expensiveBY PAUL GALLANT

12 AWAY WINTER 2015

1 SUPER VISION Bombardier’s “vision system” gives the pilot a digital rendering of the outside environment, overlaid on the cockpit windows. This lets the crew see in the dark—virtually.

2 HUGE WINDOWS Abundant natural light makes the Global 7000 feel “more like flying in a bubble than in a metal tube,” says Bombardier executive Sean Johnston.

3 PLUSH LOUNGERS Eight people can sleep fully reclined on the jet’s adjustable seats. Not that they won’t fight over the queen-size bed in the stateroom.

4 CUSTOM FURNISHINGS Bombardier’s team of design-ers will help you choose from 40,000 sample materials, including silk carpets.

5 GOURMET KITCHEN The plane is outfitted with fridges, induction cooktops, convection and steam ovens and a microwave.

6 LUXE BATHROOMS There’s enough hot water on-board for a 40-minute shower.

7 ROOM FOR THE WHOLE GANG The jet’s thin, reinforced frame maximizes interior space to handle as many as 19 passengers. The frame is 15 per cent lighter than in other jets, saving a small fortune in fuel costs.

8 WI-FI CONNECTIVITY You can stream content to any of the cabin’s four TV screens. Plus, the window shades, temperature and lighting can be controlled via mobile apps.

9 FRESH AIR The humidification system, air quality and air pressure make you forget you’re 15,000 metres above Earth.

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THE SPECS With a range of 13,520 kilometres (7,300 nautical miles), the Global

7000 could fly from Toronto to Dubai without touching down. The cabin features four distinct living areas,

including a stateroom and kitchen.

I N S I D E R

WINTER 2015 AWAY 13

2

1

3

ANATOMY

RAREFIED AIRBombardier’s Global 7000 is the ultimate private jet:

ultra-comfortable, ultra-long-range and ultra-expensiveBY PAUL GALLANT

12 AWAY WINTER 2015

1 SUPER VISION Bombardier’s “vision system” gives the pilot a digital rendering of the outside environment, overlaid on the cockpit windows. This lets the crew see in the dark—virtually.

2 HUGE WINDOWS Abundant natural light makes the Global 7000 feel “more like flying in a bubble than in a metal tube,” says Bombardier executive Sean Johnston.

3 PLUSH LOUNGERS Eight people can sleep fully reclined on the jet’s adjustable seats. Not that they won’t fight over the queen-size bed in the stateroom.

4 CUSTOM FURNISHINGS Bombardier’s team of design-ers will help you choose from 40,000 sample materials, including silk carpets.

5 GOURMET KITCHEN The plane is outfitted with fridges, induction cooktops, convection and steam ovens and a microwave.

6 LUXE BATHROOMS There’s enough hot water on-board for a 40-minute shower.

7 ROOM FOR THE WHOLE GANG The jet’s thin, reinforced frame maximizes interior space to handle as many as 19 passengers. The frame is 15 per cent lighter than in other jets, saving a small fortune in fuel costs.

8 WI-FI CONNECTIVITY You can stream content to any of the cabin’s four TV screens. Plus, the window shades, temperature and lighting can be controlled via mobile apps.

9 FRESH AIR The humidification system, air quality and air pressure make you forget you’re 15,000 metres above Earth.

4

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THE SPECS With a range of 13,520 kilometres (7,300 nautical miles), the Global

7000 could fly from Toronto to Dubai without touching down. The cabin features four distinct living areas,

including a stateroom and kitchen.

I N S I D E R

openhappiness®

‰/MD Coca-Cola Ltd., used under license.

Coca-Cola_GTAA ad_12.5x10.indd 1 11/27/2014 8:42:05 AM

openhappiness®

‰/MD Coca-Cola Ltd., used under license.

Coca-Cola_GTAA ad_12.5x10.indd 1 11/27/2014 8:42:05 AM

openhappiness®

‰/MD Coca-Cola Ltd., used under license.

Coca-Cola_GTAA ad_12.5x10.indd 1 11/27/2014 8:42:05 AM

openhappiness®

‰/MD Coca-Cola Ltd., used under license.

Coca-Cola_GTAA ad_12.5x10.indd 1 11/27/2014 8:42:05 AM

WINTER 2015 AWAY 17

I N S I D E R

16 AWAY WINTER 2015

CHECKING IN

A DAY IN THE LIFEWe ask ten world travellers where they’re headedBY JEAN GRANT

PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA MCINTYRE

⬇Who Carlos Miranda, 40-year-old architect from Montreal Where

San José, Costa Rica Why “I’m

visiting my family.” How I’m passing

the time “A Coach bag caught my eye

at a shop in the terminal, but it’s

my birthday soon so I’m going to

restrain myself.”

⬅Who Robert Simpson, 55-year-

old PR professional Where Back home

to Vancouver. “I travel to Toronto

four days every month for work.”

Carry-on “I don’t check anything,

so I carry an extra sweater, gym

shoes, a bathing suit and swim

goggles.”

⬆Who Ivan Trinh, 40-year-old monk Where Back home to Ed-monton. “I was in Toronto helping and teaching at my master’s tem-ple.” Carry-on “Clothes, ginseng tea and religious books.”

➡Who Steven Burgess, 47-year-old engineer

from Melbourne, Australia Where New York City Why “We’re

stopping in Toronto to meet friends for a

surprise engagement.” Carry-on “I always

have a book and a spare hat.” How I’m passing

the time “I’m going to buy some snacks and

a bottle of Grey Goose vodka at duty free.”

⬆Who Mayuko Van Den Haas, 44-year-old ground employee

at Air Canada, and daughter Rika, from Toronto Where Japan Why “We’re going to

see my family. We visit once a year.” Carry-on “Toys and

homework in hers and snacks, books and a blanket in mine.”

⬅Who Ranjit Dhaliwal, 27-year-old law student

from Toronto Where Vancouver Why “I’m

heading to a family reunion.” How I’m

passing the time “I ate breakfast at the

Mill Street Brewery. Unfortunately, it was a

little early for a beer.”

⬅Who Mackenzie Hamilton, 25-year-old model living in New York Where Vancouver Why “I’m really excited to be going home to see my family on Vancouver Island. The last time I was there, my trip was cut short because of a job.” Carry-on “I have an iPad, a Nintendo 3DS and a few books.”

➡Who Gladette Ledingham, 77-year-old retired nurse

Where Back home to Vancouver Why “We were visiting our daughters and

grandchildren. Thankfully, they all live in Toronto, so

we can see everyone in one trip.” Carry-on “My iPad,

cosmetics and toothpaste.”

⬆Who Natsumi Kaneko, 27-year-old office clerk from Japan Where “My

husband and I are stopping in Toronto on our way home from Florida. We went

to Disney World for our honeymoon.”

WINTER 2015 AWAY 17

I N S I D E R

16 AWAY WINTER 2015

CHECKING IN

A DAY IN THE LIFEWe ask ten world travellers where they’re headedBY JEAN GRANT

PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA MCINTYRE

⬇Who Carlos Miranda, 40-year-old architect from Montreal Where

San José, Costa Rica Why “I’m

visiting my family.” How I’m passing

the time “A Coach bag caught my eye

at a shop in the terminal, but it’s

my birthday soon so I’m going to

restrain myself.”

⬅Who Robert Simpson, 55-year-

old PR professional Where Back home

to Vancouver. “I travel to Toronto

four days every month for work.”

Carry-on “I don’t check anything,

so I carry an extra sweater, gym

shoes, a bathing suit and swim

goggles.”

⬆Who Ivan Trinh, 40-year-old monk Where Back home to Ed-monton. “I was in Toronto helping and teaching at my master’s tem-ple.” Carry-on “Clothes, ginseng tea and religious books.”

➡Who Steven Burgess, 47-year-old engineer

from Melbourne, Australia Where New York City Why “We’re

stopping in Toronto to meet friends for a

surprise engagement.” Carry-on “I always

have a book and a spare hat.” How I’m passing

the time “I’m going to buy some snacks and

a bottle of Grey Goose vodka at duty free.”

⬆Who Mayuko Van Den Haas, 44-year-old ground employee

at Air Canada, and daughter Rika, from Toronto Where Japan Why “We’re going to

see my family. We visit once a year.” Carry-on “Toys and

homework in hers and snacks, books and a blanket in mine.”

⬅Who Ranjit Dhaliwal, 27-year-old law student

from Toronto Where Vancouver Why “I’m

heading to a family reunion.” How I’m

passing the time “I ate breakfast at the

Mill Street Brewery. Unfortunately, it was a

little early for a beer.”

⬅Who Mackenzie Hamilton, 25-year-old model living in New York Where Vancouver Why “I’m really excited to be going home to see my family on Vancouver Island. The last time I was there, my trip was cut short because of a job.” Carry-on “I have an iPad, a Nintendo 3DS and a few books.”

➡Who Gladette Ledingham, 77-year-old retired nurse

Where Back home to Vancouver Why “We were visiting our daughters and

grandchildren. Thankfully, they all live in Toronto, so

we can see everyone in one trip.” Carry-on “My iPad,

cosmetics and toothpaste.”

⬆Who Natsumi Kaneko, 27-year-old office clerk from Japan Where “My

husband and I are stopping in Toronto on our way home from Florida. We went

to Disney World for our honeymoon.”

t h e l i s tDINING AND SHOPPING AT TORONTO PEARSON

AIR FARE

PIE FOR THE SKYParamount puts a populist spin on Middle Eastern cuisine

PHO

TOG

RAPH

BY

EMM

A M

cIN

TYRE

WINTER 2015 AWAY 19

Earlier this year, Paramount Fine Foods opened a quick-service outpost at Toronto Pearson (a second will open in the spring), bringing halal Middle Eastern food-stall staples to hungry travellers. The chain is known to its southern Ontario devotees for grilled kebabs, flaky pas-tries, creamy dips like hummus and mouta-bal, and the Lebanese answer to pizza: blistery, wood-fired manakeesh (above). Paramount has

come a long way since 2007, the year Leb anese-born Mohamad Fakih purchased an ailing restaurant in Mississauga, Ontario, and set out on an ambitious plan to revive it. Fakih now employs 800 staff across nine Paramount loca-tions, including a 3,300-square-foot gourmet halal butcher shop. The whole enterprise is simultaneously populist and authentic—just as Mediterranean cuisine should be.

t h e l i s tDINING AND SHOPPING AT TORONTO PEARSON

AIR FARE

PIE FOR THE SKYParamount puts a populist spin on Middle Eastern cuisine

PHO

TOG

RAPH

BY

EMM

A M

cIN

TYRE

WINTER 2015 AWAY 19

Earlier this year, Paramount Fine Foods opened a quick-service outpost at Toronto Pearson (a second will open in the spring), bringing halal Middle Eastern food-stall staples to hungry travellers. The chain is known to its southern Ontario devotees for grilled kebabs, flaky pas-tries, creamy dips like hummus and mouta-bal, and the Lebanese answer to pizza: blistery, wood-fired manakeesh (above). Paramount has

come a long way since 2007, the year Leb anese-born Mohamad Fakih purchased an ailing restaurant in Mississauga, Ontario, and set out on an ambitious plan to revive it. Fakih now employs 800 staff across nine Paramount loca-tions, including a 3,300-square-foot gourmet halal butcher shop. The whole enterprise is simultaneously populist and authentic—just as Mediterranean cuisine should be.

20 AWAY WINTER 2015

STYLE AND BEAUTY

SHORE THINGSPlay up your tan with these island-inspired beach accessoriesPHOTOGRAPHS BY VICKY LAM

1 Bamboo rose gold bracelet, $3,040, and earrings, $2,105. Gucci 2 Colour Crush nail polish in mint cream, minty armour and pink cream, $6 each. The Body Shop 3 Narciso perfume by Narciso Rodriguez, $98. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 4 Ray-Ban matte blue aviators, $208. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 5 Coach Bleecker Legacy coin case in fawn, $78. Coach 6 Leather card case in blue, $285. Salvatore Ferragamo 7 Turquoise watch, $300. Michael Kors 8 Jambox Bluetooth speaker by Jawbone in aqua scales, $180. iStore 9 Silk scarves in lagoon and paper, $110 each. Longchamp 10 Leather bracelets, $180 each. Salvatore Ferragamo. (All prices in Canadian dollars.)

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WINTER 2015 AWAY 21

t h e l i s t

See Toronto Pearson map on page 58 for retail locations inside Terminal 1

20 AWAY WINTER 2015

STYLE AND BEAUTY

SHORE THINGSPlay up your tan with these island-inspired beach accessoriesPHOTOGRAPHS BY VICKY LAM

1 Bamboo rose gold bracelet, $3,040, and earrings, $2,105. Gucci 2 Colour Crush nail polish in mint cream, minty armour and pink cream, $6 each. The Body Shop 3 Narciso perfume by Narciso Rodriguez, $98. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 4 Ray-Ban matte blue aviators, $208. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 5 Coach Bleecker Legacy coin case in fawn, $78. Coach 6 Leather card case in blue, $285. Salvatore Ferragamo 7 Turquoise watch, $300. Michael Kors 8 Jambox Bluetooth speaker by Jawbone in aqua scales, $180. iStore 9 Silk scarves in lagoon and paper, $110 each. Longchamp 10 Leather bracelets, $180 each. Salvatore Ferragamo. (All prices in Canadian dollars.)

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2

4

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5

6

8

9

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WINTER 2015 AWAY 21

t h e l i s t

See Toronto Pearson map on page 58 for retail locations inside Terminal 1

22 AWAY WINTER 2015

t h e l i s t

1

3

6

4

2

5

7

GIFTS

MADE IN CANADA Take home some cold comfort from the country that does winter best PHOTOGRAPH BY VICKY LAM

1 Prince Rupert butter fudge, $13. Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post 2 Brown and cream cashmere scarf, $160. Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post 3 Anat Basanta never-ending necklace, $405. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 4 Hand-knit wool mittens, $60. Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post 5 Loyal Loot log bowls in eggplant, $175, and red, $115. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 6 Ecojot Toronto notebook, $10. Watermark 7 Stalk & Barrel single malt whisky, $130. The Duty Free Store by Nuance. (All prices in Canadian dollars.)

See Toronto Pearson map on page 58 for retail locations inside Terminal 1

MY CARRY-ONS

George Stroumboulopoulos, the new host of Hockey Night in Canada, shows

us what’s in his bag

“Currently, I’m hooked on watching episodes of

The Killing, so flights have been pretty grim.”

“I’m obviously reading a lot of hockey stuff right now, like

Stephen Harper’s A Great Game.”

“My go-to snacks for travelling are pistachios and pretzels. I like the vegan ones from

Whole Foods.”

“I’m listening to the National, Hayden and a lot of space-rock

band Spiritualized.”

ET CETERA

CULTURE BREAK Five entertaining ways to kill time on the ground or in the clouds

1 BOOKEmma Hooper’s Etta and Otto and Russell and James is 2015’s most anticipated debut. Eighty-three-year-old Etta awakes one morning with an impulse to see the ocean, setting out to walk across Canada, from her Saskatchewan farmhouse to the shores of Halifax. Meanwhile, Otto, the husband she leaves behind, takes an emotional trip as he reminisces about a life filled with friendship, war and missed opportunities. Available January 20. Kindle, iBooks, hardcover

2 ARTSpend your layover at Toronto Pearson with Amazon of the North, Eamon Mac Mahon’s photo essay of Canada’s boreal forest, also known as Canada’s Amazon, which stretches from Newfoundland to the Yukon. Until June 2015. Terminal 1

3 MUSICCover albums don’t always fly, but there’s no question Zooey Deschanel, the “She” half of She & Him, was born to sing the standards—not to mention more modern favourites—found on Classics, the indie duo’s new collection. iTunes

4 GAMEForget Candy Crush; Crossy Road is your new addictive time-waster. It’s Frogger reimagined for the mobile era, only more difficult and with boxy Lego-like graphics. App Store

5 MOVIERichard Linklater shot the critically acclaimed Boyhood over a span of 12 years, accomplishing something no other director has done in a single film: capturing the childhood of a fictional boy in real time. iTunes

1

2

3

4

5

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HER

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22 AWAY WINTER 2015

t h e l i s t

1

3

6

4

2

5

7

GIFTS

MADE IN CANADA Take home some cold comfort from the country that does winter best PHOTOGRAPH BY VICKY LAM

1 Prince Rupert butter fudge, $13. Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post 2 Brown and cream cashmere scarf, $160. Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post 3 Anat Basanta never-ending necklace, $405. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 4 Hand-knit wool mittens, $60. Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post 5 Loyal Loot log bowls in eggplant, $175, and red, $115. The Duty Free Store by Nuance 6 Ecojot Toronto notebook, $10. Watermark 7 Stalk & Barrel single malt whisky, $130. The Duty Free Store by Nuance. (All prices in Canadian dollars.)

See Toronto Pearson map on page 58 for retail locations inside Terminal 1

MY CARRY-ONS

George Stroumboulopoulos, the new host of Hockey Night in Canada, shows

us what’s in his bag

“Currently, I’m hooked on watching episodes of

The Killing, so flights have been pretty grim.”

“I’m obviously reading a lot of hockey stuff right now, like

Stephen Harper’s A Great Game.”

“My go-to snacks for travelling are pistachios and pretzels. I like the vegan ones from

Whole Foods.”

“I’m listening to the National, Hayden and a lot of space-rock

band Spiritualized.”

ET CETERA

CULTURE BREAK Five entertaining ways to kill time on the ground or in the clouds

1 BOOKEmma Hooper’s Etta and Otto and Russell and James is 2015’s most anticipated debut. Eighty-three-year-old Etta awakes one morning with an impulse to see the ocean, setting out to walk across Canada, from her Saskatchewan farmhouse to the shores of Halifax. Meanwhile, Otto, the husband she leaves behind, takes an emotional trip as he reminisces about a life filled with friendship, war and missed opportunities. Available January 20. Kindle, iBooks, hardcover

2 ARTSpend your layover at Toronto Pearson with Amazon of the North, Eamon Mac Mahon’s photo essay of Canada’s boreal forest, also known as Canada’s Amazon, which stretches from Newfoundland to the Yukon. Until June 2015. Terminal 1

3 MUSICCover albums don’t always fly, but there’s no question Zooey Deschanel, the “She” half of She & Him, was born to sing the standards—not to mention more modern favourites—found on Classics, the indie duo’s new collection. iTunes

4 GAMEForget Candy Crush; Crossy Road is your new addictive time-waster. It’s Frogger reimagined for the mobile era, only more difficult and with boxy Lego-like graphics. App Store

5 MOVIERichard Linklater shot the critically acclaimed Boyhood over a span of 12 years, accomplishing something no other director has done in a single film: capturing the childhood of a fictional boy in real time. iTunes

1

2

3

4

5

ILLU

STRA

TIO

N B

Y A

LEX

MAT

HER

S

MUC

HO

P ISC

OPeruvian cuisine has become the toast of chefs around the world. A journey to the heart of the culinary movement in Lima’s Barranco district BY SARAH TRELEAVEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JASON SULLIVAN

explorer

Canta Rana in Barranco, Lima’s best neighbourhood

for restaurant hopping

MUC

HO

PISC

OPeruvian cuisine has become the toast of chefs around the world. A journey to the heart of the culinary movement in Lima’s Barranco district BY SARAH TRELEAVEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JASON SULLIVAN

explorer

Canta Rana in Barranco, Lima’s best neighbourhood

for restaurant hopping

WINTER 2015 AWAY 2726 AWAY WINTER 2015

CÉSAR, MY GUIDE for the evening, was waiting for me in front of the church, near the Starbucks, in the central square of Barranco in Lima. Barranco isn’t as swanky as Miraflores or San Isidro—the toniest of the 43 districts in the sprawling, patchy capital city of Peru—but it’s much cooler. The one-time beach resort is now home to the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, the Museo Mario Testino (which shows the work of the renowned Peruvian fash-ion photographer), boutiques selling high-end clothing made of alpaca and a members-only yacht club. It’s also heaven for gourmands, with the

highest concentration of restaurants in the city. Barranco is one of the few Lima neighbourhoods where you can feasibly restaurant hop.

Peruvian food is having a moment. Last year, Lima restaurant in London, run by chef Virgilio Martinez, be-came the first Peruvian restaurant to receive a coveted Michelin star. Superstar chefs such as Ferran Adrià and Anthony Bourdain have been singing the praises of Peru’s rich scene. And chef Gastón Acurio, of Astrid & Gastón fame, is turning that scene into a global concern. Considered a culinary god in Peru, Acurio has made it his mission to glo-rify local ingredients and cuisine. He has built an empire of 44 restaurants around the world, including seven in Lima, turning the city into the foodie capital of South America.

The international attention is nice, but Limaites aren’t letting it get to their heads. The art, culture and food scenes remain, at heart, faithfully traditional. And so I found myself, one hazy night in October, on a gas-tronomic adventure through Lima with César, a guide from the tour company Intrepid Travel. The plan was to spend the evening zigzaging across Barranco to taste the big five of Peruvian food and drink: pisco

1 A bartender at boutique Hotel B

mixes up a pisco sour, made from Peruvian brandy, simple syrup,

bitters and egg 2 A plate of

anticuchos, spicy grilled cow-heart

kebabs with a pork-like texture

3 A street vendor sells snacks in the

Barranco district

2

1

explorer

3

WINTER 2015 AWAY 2726 AWAY WINTER 2015

CÉSAR, MY GUIDE for the evening, was waiting for me in front of the church, near the Starbucks, in the central square of Barranco in Lima. Barranco isn’t as swanky as Miraflores or San Isidro—the toniest of the 43 districts in the sprawling, patchy capital city of Peru—but it’s much cooler. The one-time beach resort is now home to the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, the Museo Mario Testino (which shows the work of the renowned Peruvian fash-ion photographer), boutiques selling high-end clothing made of alpaca and a members-only yacht club. It’s also heaven for gourmands, with the

highest concentration of restaurants in the city. Barranco is one of the few Lima neighbourhoods where you can feasibly restaurant hop.

Peruvian food is having a moment. Last year, Lima restaurant in London, run by chef Virgilio Martinez, be-came the first Peruvian restaurant to receive a coveted Michelin star. Superstar chefs such as Ferran Adrià and Anthony Bourdain have been singing the praises of Peru’s rich scene. And chef Gastón Acurio, of Astrid & Gastón fame, is turning that scene into a global concern. Considered a culinary god in Peru, Acurio has made it his mission to glo-rify local ingredients and cuisine. He has built an empire of 44 restaurants around the world, including seven in Lima, turning the city into the foodie capital of South America.

The international attention is nice, but Limaites aren’t letting it get to their heads. The art, culture and food scenes remain, at heart, faithfully traditional. And so I found myself, one hazy night in October, on a gas-tronomic adventure through Lima with César, a guide from the tour company Intrepid Travel. The plan was to spend the evening zigzaging across Barranco to taste the big five of Peruvian food and drink: pisco

1 A bartender at boutique Hotel B

mixes up a pisco sour, made from Peruvian brandy, simple syrup,

bitters and egg 2 A plate of

anticuchos, spicy grilled cow-heart

kebabs with a pork-like texture

3 A street vendor sells snacks in the

Barranco district

2

1

explorer

3

explorer

WINTER 2015 AWAY 2928 AWAY WINTER 2015

sour, anticuchos, ceviche, picarones, and arroz con leche.

We started at the new boutique Hotel B, a 17-suite self-described “arts hotel” in a beautifully renovat-ed belle époque mansion dating back to 1914. It’s a chic affair, with cozy spaces for sitting (both inside and outside) and contemporary artwork that clashes nicely with the original architecture. At the bar, I order a pisco sour, a cocktail that consists of pisco—a brandy made in the country’s wine regions, usually from muscat grapes—with lime or lemon juice, simple syrup, egg white and bitters, served on ice. It’s ex-tremely sweet and tart, which makes it hard to stop at just one.

Both Chile and Peru claim the pisco sour as their national drink, and Lima has plenty of other menu items of disputed provenance. Peru is home to multiple waves of im-migrants, all of whom have added their own flavours and techniques to the culinary melting pot. Chifas, or Chinese-Peruvian restaurants that serve dishes like fried rice with Peruvian corn, have become so ab-sorbed in the culture that they’re now considered local. Japanese, Spanish, French and Italians have also made their mark. Spaghetti is common on Peruvian menus.

Our next stop was for anticuchos—grilled cow-heart kebabs—at El Tio Mario (Uncle Mario), a down-home joint with black and white pictures of the old Barranco lining the walls. We took a seat on the terrace, despite the slightly chilly late spring tempera-ture in October. (Summer in Lima runs from November to March.) Our plates arrived loaded with an anti-cucho skewer, roasted potatoes and boiled corn. Anticucho is marinated overnight in salt, vinegar, cumin and ají panca, a Peruvian red chili pepper that gives deep flavour without a lot of heat. When it’s grilled, the texture is tender and slightly gummy—closer to pork than beef.

César and I were getting along swimmingly and talk turned to po-tatoes. Peruvians win out over even the Irish when it comes to pride in their starches. César told me that

Peru has 2,800 different types of spuds, including three sweet potatoes. Apparently, there are also 2,000 types of soup. “Even one made of stones,” said César.

AFTER A LONG history of hard times, Peru’s economy is now one of the best-performing in South America. That’s due to a booming export market, as well as a popular centrist government. Decades of guerrilla terrorism by the Shining Path mili-tant group effectively came to an end in the 1990s. Peru’s new prosperity has had a profound impact on basic necessities. Quinoa, the country’s staple crop, has become an inter-national sensation. Demand has driven up the price, and most of it is hoarded for export. Quinoa costs about 22 soles ($8.50) per pound, double the price of chicken. But there are upsides to Peru’s economic re-versal of fortune. César told me there are a staggering “300 per cent more restaurants” in Lima than there were just 10 years ago.

Next up was ceviche at Picas, a hipster haven blasting Depeche Mode. We sat on the patio and our order soon arrived: small cubes of

4

4 Plaza Principal, the Barranco district’s central square 5 Digging into tart, salty, spicy ceviche

5

USUALLY A LUNCH-

TIME MEAL, CEVICHE IS

THE PERFECT MATE FOR

LATE-NIGHT BEER AND

SALSA DANCING

explorer

WINTER 2015 AWAY 2928 AWAY WINTER 2015

sour, anticuchos, ceviche, picarones, and arroz con leche.

We started at the new boutique Hotel B, a 17-suite self-described “arts hotel” in a beautifully renovat-ed belle époque mansion dating back to 1914. It’s a chic affair, with cozy spaces for sitting (both inside and outside) and contemporary artwork that clashes nicely with the original architecture. At the bar, I order a pisco sour, a cocktail that consists of pisco—a brandy made in the country’s wine regions, usually from muscat grapes—with lime or lemon juice, simple syrup, egg white and bitters, served on ice. It’s ex-tremely sweet and tart, which makes it hard to stop at just one.

Both Chile and Peru claim the pisco sour as their national drink, and Lima has plenty of other menu items of disputed provenance. Peru is home to multiple waves of im-migrants, all of whom have added their own flavours and techniques to the culinary melting pot. Chifas, or Chinese-Peruvian restaurants that serve dishes like fried rice with Peruvian corn, have become so ab-sorbed in the culture that they’re now considered local. Japanese, Spanish, French and Italians have also made their mark. Spaghetti is common on Peruvian menus.

Our next stop was for anticuchos—grilled cow-heart kebabs—at El Tio Mario (Uncle Mario), a down-home joint with black and white pictures of the old Barranco lining the walls. We took a seat on the terrace, despite the slightly chilly late spring tempera-ture in October. (Summer in Lima runs from November to March.) Our plates arrived loaded with an anti-cucho skewer, roasted potatoes and boiled corn. Anticucho is marinated overnight in salt, vinegar, cumin and ají panca, a Peruvian red chili pepper that gives deep flavour without a lot of heat. When it’s grilled, the texture is tender and slightly gummy—closer to pork than beef.

César and I were getting along swimmingly and talk turned to po-tatoes. Peruvians win out over even the Irish when it comes to pride in their starches. César told me that

Peru has 2,800 different types of spuds, including three sweet potatoes. Apparently, there are also 2,000 types of soup. “Even one made of stones,” said César.

AFTER A LONG history of hard times, Peru’s economy is now one of the best-performing in South America. That’s due to a booming export market, as well as a popular centrist government. Decades of guerrilla terrorism by the Shining Path mili-tant group effectively came to an end in the 1990s. Peru’s new prosperity has had a profound impact on basic necessities. Quinoa, the country’s staple crop, has become an inter-national sensation. Demand has driven up the price, and most of it is hoarded for export. Quinoa costs about 22 soles ($8.50) per pound, double the price of chicken. But there are upsides to Peru’s economic re-versal of fortune. César told me there are a staggering “300 per cent more restaurants” in Lima than there were just 10 years ago.

Next up was ceviche at Picas, a hipster haven blasting Depeche Mode. We sat on the patio and our order soon arrived: small cubes of

4

4 Plaza Principal, the Barranco district’s central square 5 Digging into tart, salty, spicy ceviche

5

USUALLY A LUNCH-

TIME MEAL, CEVICHE IS

THE PERFECT MATE FOR

LATE-NIGHT BEER AND

SALSA DANCING

LIMA

PACIFIC OCEAN

1N

1S

30 AWAY WINTER 2015

sea bass cured in lime and topped with diced onions and chili peppers. The combination of tart, salty and spicy lit up my tastebuds. Ceviche is usually a lunchtime meal, eaten when just-caught fish is most fresh. But it’s also a perfect accompaniment to late-night beer and salsa dancing. César and I debated the merits of re-gional variations on ceviche, popular across Latin America. I’m partial to the Mexican recipe: light and sharp, with high acidity. Ecuadoreans put ketchup in their ceviche, and Costa Ricans use onion juice. César made a face: “I did not like it.”

We moved on to Acantilado de

Barranco, a cliffside resort above the Pacific Ocean with a view of new, million-dollar seaside apartments, a private marina and the giant lit cross that was erected on a hillside in hon-our of Pope John Paul II’s visit in 1985. Deep-fried picarones arrived, looking like a combination of dough-nuts and chubby onion rings. They’re made with sweet potatoes, pumpkin, flour and sugar and topped with a syrup made of sugar cane, cinnamon and cloves. They are as good as they sound: crispy, soft, surprisingly spicy and delectably greasy.

We walked down Jirón de La Unión, a pedestrian promenade lined with restaurants, to our final destination. Near the main square, we stopped at a little stand on wheels, where a woman wearing a white lab coat and matching cap served up mazamorra and arroz con leche. I took a generous spoonful of each. The mazamorra, a pudding made from purple corn and sprinkled with cinnamon, was gooey, like pie filling made with an exces-sive thickening agent. The arroz con leche was a pleasantly sweet and creamy rice pudding.

I was already full and floundered on this finale. César noticed and, scraping the bottom of his own plas-tic bowl, offered to take mine off my hands. I exhaled, completely spent. “I can’t believe you’re already done,” said César, digging into round two. “I love this stuff.” ✈

FLY Several airlines operate flights from Toronto Pearson to Lima, in-cluding Air Canada, LAN, American Airlines, Delta, United and Avianca. From Lima’s Jorge Chávez Inter-national Airport, take the official licensed Taxis Verdes (Green Taxis), which post their prices.

STAY The Arts Boutique Hotel (known as Hotel B) is the hot new property in Lima. The exquisitely renovated building is filled with fascinating art and photography, the airy rooms have high ceilings and charming design details and the food and cocktails are thoughtful and delicious. Rates start at US$350 per night. hotelb.pe

6 Picarones, deep-fried sweet

potatoes with the characteristics of both onion rings

and doughnuts7 A vendor dishes

out mazamorra, a pudding made

from purple corn

6

7

explorer

HOW TO GET THERE

Eight-hour non-stop

flight from Toronto Pearson to Lima

MAP

BY

NIC

OLA

HA

MIL

TON

BARRANCO DISTRICT

AVENID

A BRASIL

AV ANGAMOS ESTE

LIMA

PACIFIC OCEAN

1N

1S

30 AWAY WINTER 2015

sea bass cured in lime and topped with diced onions and chili peppers. The combination of tart, salty and spicy lit up my tastebuds. Ceviche is usually a lunchtime meal, eaten when just-caught fish is most fresh. But it’s also a perfect accompaniment to late-night beer and salsa dancing. César and I debated the merits of re-gional variations on ceviche, popular across Latin America. I’m partial to the Mexican recipe: light and sharp, with high acidity. Ecuadoreans put ketchup in their ceviche, and Costa Ricans use onion juice. César made a face: “I did not like it.”

We moved on to Acantilado de

Barranco, a cliffside resort above the Pacific Ocean with a view of new, million-dollar seaside apartments, a private marina and the giant lit cross that was erected on a hillside in hon-our of Pope John Paul II’s visit in 1985. Deep-fried picarones arrived, looking like a combination of dough-nuts and chubby onion rings. They’re made with sweet potatoes, pumpkin, flour and sugar and topped with a syrup made of sugar cane, cinnamon and cloves. They are as good as they sound: crispy, soft, surprisingly spicy and delectably greasy.

We walked down Jirón de La Unión, a pedestrian promenade lined with restaurants, to our final destination. Near the main square, we stopped at a little stand on wheels, where a woman wearing a white lab coat and matching cap served up mazamorra and arroz con leche. I took a generous spoonful of each. The mazamorra, a pudding made from purple corn and sprinkled with cinnamon, was gooey, like pie filling made with an exces-sive thickening agent. The arroz con leche was a pleasantly sweet and creamy rice pudding.

I was already full and floundered on this finale. César noticed and, scraping the bottom of his own plas-tic bowl, offered to take mine off my hands. I exhaled, completely spent. “I can’t believe you’re already done,” said César, digging into round two. “I love this stuff.” ✈

FLY Several airlines operate flights from Toronto Pearson to Lima, in-cluding Air Canada, LAN, American Airlines, Delta, United and Avianca. From Lima’s Jorge Chávez Inter-national Airport, take the official licensed Taxis Verdes (Green Taxis), which post their prices.

STAY The Arts Boutique Hotel (known as Hotel B) is the hot new property in Lima. The exquisitely renovated building is filled with fascinating art and photography, the airy rooms have high ceilings and charming design details and the food and cocktails are thoughtful and delicious. Rates start at US$350 per night. hotelb.pe

6 Picarones, deep-fried sweet

potatoes with the characteristics of both onion rings

and doughnuts7 A vendor dishes

out mazamorra, a pudding made

from purple corn

6

7

explorer

HOW TO GET THERE

Eight-hour non-stop

flight from Toronto Pearson to Lima

MAP

BY

NIC

OLA

HA

MIL

TON

BARRANCO DISTRICT

AVENID

A BRASIL

AV ANGAMOS ESTE

WINTER 2015 AWAY 3332 AWAY WINTER 2015

The Catenary Ridge on the north face of Mount Logan

F R E S H TR ACKSThe St. Elias Mountains:

an immensely snowy playground no one has heard of

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN ZADA

explorer

WINTER 2015 AWAY 3332 AWAY WINTER 2015

The Catenary Ridge on the north face of Mount Logan

F R E S H TR ACKSThe St. Elias Mountains:

an immensely snowy playground no one has heard of

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN ZADA

explorer

CA

NA

DA

ALA

SKA

1

2

3

GULF OF ALASKA

KLUANE NATIONAL PARK

WHITEHORSE

HAINES JUNCTION

34 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 35

A sk any schoolchild to name Canada’s highest mountain range and “the Rockies” will roll off the tongue. That picture-perfect range, towering above pristine

forests and alpine lakes, is as iconic as moose, maple syrup and lumberjacks. Are any other mountains loftier?

Sure, but you’ve never heard of them. They’re the St. Elias Mountains. Located 1,700 kilo-metres northwest of the Rockies, they’re not just the highest in Canada but in all of North America. Doused in untrodden snow, they rise up at the borders of the Yukon, B.C. and Alaska. They’re home to Canada’s tallest peak, the be-hemoth-like Mount Logan—a staggering 5,960 metres high. In fact, the St. Elias Mountains are so gargantuan and formidable that they were the last place on Earth to be reached by European explorers at the turn of the 20th century. To this day, parts of them remain terra incognita.

These hills are mostly known to diehard win-ter-sports enthusiasts—the kind that crave high altitudes and a pure, unadulterated natural envi-ronment. Lack of snow is never a problem here; neither are crowds. These peaks are thankfully light on tourists.

At St. Elias’s higher elevations, seasoned mountaineers can tackle a number of jug-gernauts in the sky with names like Lucania, Hubbard and Queen Mary. The climbing is world-class but you don’t need to be an expert

with ice picks and crampons to partake in the fun. The Yukon-based travel company Icefield Discovery Tours runs a seasonal glacier camp within sight of Mount Logan. There, you can snowshoe or backcountry ski on a stable chunk of glacier and spend the night roughing it in a Weatherhaven shelter. If sidestepping crevasses isn’t your thing, Icefield also runs guided flyover tours in a small plane. They’ll even land on the glacier so you can spend a few minutes walking around, punching your footprints in the snow.

Below the icefields, there’s the wilderness village of Haines Junction (or “the Junction”), gateway to the beautiful boreal landscape of Kluane National Park. Seasoned cross-country skiers and snowshoers flock to Kluane’s trails, including the Auriol and Cottonwood routes, popular for both day treks and longer ski tours. Hikers tromp through the same thoroughfares in the summer. To wind the day down, the Junction has a couple of cafés and hangouts, but you’ll likely end up driving two hours to Whitehorse for a meal of wild elk stroganoff and a glass of shiraz at the hip Klondike Rib and Salmon restaurant. Because even in the blissfully wild north, there’s room for a few newfangled perks. ✈

1 The Icefield Discovery glacier camp, 40 kilometres from Mount Logan 2 Whitehorse, facing Mount Sima, a two-hour drive from the St. Elias Mountains 3 Members of the Yukon chapter of the Alpine Club of Canada rope up at the Icefield Discovery camp before a trek along the glacier

Where to stay in and around Haines Junction: Kluane Bed & Breakfast (from $100 per night), kluanecabins.com; Parkside Inn (from $130 per night), parksidekluaneyukon.com

Equipment rentals and custom trips: Up North Adventures (Whitehorse), upnorthadventures.com

Glacier camp and flights: Icefield Discovery Tours, icefielddiscovery.com

Info on winter trails: yukonhiking.ca

Direct Air Canada

flight to Whitehorse

HOW TO GET THERE

Two-hour drive to Haines

Junction

1

2

3

explorer

MAP

BY

NIC

OLA

HA

MIL

TON

CA

NA

DA

ALA

SKA

1

2

3

GULF OF ALASKA

KLUANE NATIONAL PARK

WHITEHORSE

HAINES JUNCTION

34 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 35

A sk any schoolchild to name Canada’s highest mountain range and “the Rockies” will roll off the tongue. That picture-perfect range, towering above pristine

forests and alpine lakes, is as iconic as moose, maple syrup and lumberjacks. Are any other mountains loftier?

Sure, but you’ve never heard of them. They’re the St. Elias Mountains. Located 1,700 kilo-metres northwest of the Rockies, they’re not just the highest in Canada but in all of North America. Doused in untrodden snow, they rise up at the borders of the Yukon, B.C. and Alaska. They’re home to Canada’s tallest peak, the be-hemoth-like Mount Logan—a staggering 5,960 metres high. In fact, the St. Elias Mountains are so gargantuan and formidable that they were the last place on Earth to be reached by European explorers at the turn of the 20th century. To this day, parts of them remain terra incognita.

These hills are mostly known to diehard win-ter-sports enthusiasts—the kind that crave high altitudes and a pure, unadulterated natural envi-ronment. Lack of snow is never a problem here; neither are crowds. These peaks are thankfully light on tourists.

At St. Elias’s higher elevations, seasoned mountaineers can tackle a number of jug-gernauts in the sky with names like Lucania, Hubbard and Queen Mary. The climbing is world-class but you don’t need to be an expert

with ice picks and crampons to partake in the fun. The Yukon-based travel company Icefield Discovery Tours runs a seasonal glacier camp within sight of Mount Logan. There, you can snowshoe or backcountry ski on a stable chunk of glacier and spend the night roughing it in a Weatherhaven shelter. If sidestepping crevasses isn’t your thing, Icefield also runs guided flyover tours in a small plane. They’ll even land on the glacier so you can spend a few minutes walking around, punching your footprints in the snow.

Below the icefields, there’s the wilderness village of Haines Junction (or “the Junction”), gateway to the beautiful boreal landscape of Kluane National Park. Seasoned cross-country skiers and snowshoers flock to Kluane’s trails, including the Auriol and Cottonwood routes, popular for both day treks and longer ski tours. Hikers tromp through the same thoroughfares in the summer. To wind the day down, the Junction has a couple of cafés and hangouts, but you’ll likely end up driving two hours to Whitehorse for a meal of wild elk stroganoff and a glass of shiraz at the hip Klondike Rib and Salmon restaurant. Because even in the blissfully wild north, there’s room for a few newfangled perks. ✈

1 The Icefield Discovery glacier camp, 40 kilometres from Mount Logan 2 Whitehorse, facing Mount Sima, a two-hour drive from the St. Elias Mountains 3 Members of the Yukon chapter of the Alpine Club of Canada rope up at the Icefield Discovery camp before a trek along the glacier

Where to stay in and around Haines Junction: Kluane Bed & Breakfast (from $100 per night), kluanecabins.com; Parkside Inn (from $130 per night), parksidekluaneyukon.com

Equipment rentals and custom trips: Up North Adventures (Whitehorse), upnorthadventures.com

Glacier camp and flights: Icefield Discovery Tours, icefielddiscovery.com

Info on winter trails: yukonhiking.ca

Direct Air Canada

flight to Whitehorse

HOW TO GET THERE

Two-hour drive to Haines

Junction

1

2

3

explorerM

AP B

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LA H

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A turbo-charged Helio Courier aircraft takes off after dropping travellers at the Icefield camp

WINTER 2015 AWAY 3736 AWAY WINTER 2015

explorer

THE HILLS ARE SO GARGANTUAN

AND FORMIDABLE THAT PARTS OF

THEM REMAIN TERRA INCOGNITA

A turbo-charged Helio Courier aircraft takes off after dropping travellers at the Icefield camp

WINTER 2015 AWAY 3736 AWAY WINTER 2015

explorer

THE HILLS ARE SO GARGANTUAN

AND FORMIDABLE THAT PARTS OF

THEM REMAIN TERRA INCOGNITA

38 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 39

OAHUH AWA I I

IT'S THE THIRD-LARGEST HAWAIIAN ISLAND IN SIZE BUT THE BIGGEST IN PERSONALITY

J U S T A D D

W A T E R Oahu just got a lot closer thanks to a new direct flight, via Air Canada Rouge, from Toronto Pearson to Honolulu—where even the airport is filled with the scent of leis and the sleep-inducing sound of Polynesian music. Oahu gives you a bit of everything, from brash Honolulu, with its high-rise hotels ringing Waikiki, the island’s tourist centre, to the dramatic North Shore, where surfers come to ride the big waves and the roads are lined with shacks selling tacos, sushi and cheap drinks.BEST FOR Split personalities who want high action for half the day and naps under palm trees for the rest. BUDGET Mid-range. One of the sleekest hotels is the Modern Honolulu (from US$350 per night; themodernhonolulu.com), designed by Ian Schrager. It’s glossy and fun, with four bars, a sceney restaurant and a tropical garden. Each room comes with a ukulele and pareo. Sign up for a lesson at the Ty Gurney Surf School, located in front of the elegant pink 1930s Royal Hawaiian hotel, where surfing as a sport began. DO AS THE LOCALS DO Try the spicy poke bowl at Ono’s Seafood (747 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu). Poke is chopped tuna mixed with soy, sesame seeds, wasabi, sweet Maui onions and chili flakes. Foodies tour the island trying endless versions on offer. Also, rent a car and head to Kailua Town, where you can grab a kayak or paddleboard and drift out into the warm turquoise waters of Kailua Bay.

Toronto is a hop, skip and puddle jumper away from some of the world’s most beautiful islands—

delightful mini-universes of sand, sun and sea. Here’s a guide to five of the best, for all budgets

BY ANTONIA WHYATT

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Waikiki beach from the tower of the Royal

Hawaiian. Below: the Ty Gurney Surf School

explorer

38 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 39

OAHUH AWA I I

IT'S THE THIRD-LARGEST HAWAIIAN ISLAND IN SIZE BUT THE BIGGEST IN PERSONALITY

J U S T A D D

W A T E R Oahu just got a lot closer thanks to a new direct flight, via Air Canada Rouge, from Toronto Pearson to Honolulu—where even the airport is filled with the scent of leis and the sleep-inducing sound of Polynesian music. Oahu gives you a bit of everything, from brash Honolulu, with its high-rise hotels ringing Waikiki, the island’s tourist centre, to the dramatic North Shore, where surfers come to ride the big waves and the roads are lined with shacks selling tacos, sushi and cheap drinks.BEST FOR Split personalities who want high action for half the day and naps under palm trees for the rest. BUDGET Mid-range. One of the sleekest hotels is the Modern Honolulu (from US$350 per night; themodernhonolulu.com), designed by Ian Schrager. It’s glossy and fun, with four bars, a sceney restaurant and a tropical garden. Each room comes with a ukulele and pareo. Sign up for a lesson at the Ty Gurney Surf School, located in front of the elegant pink 1930s Royal Hawaiian hotel, where surfing as a sport began. DO AS THE LOCALS DO Try the spicy poke bowl at Ono’s Seafood (747 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu). Poke is chopped tuna mixed with soy, sesame seeds, wasabi, sweet Maui onions and chili flakes. Foodies tour the island trying endless versions on offer. Also, rent a car and head to Kailua Town, where you can grab a kayak or paddleboard and drift out into the warm turquoise waters of Kailua Bay.

Toronto is a hop, skip and puddle jumper away from some of the world’s most beautiful islands—

delightful mini-universes of sand, sun and sea. Here’s a guide to five of the best, for all budgets

BY ANTONIA WHYATT

PHO

TOG

RAPH

BY

JOEY

CAR

ROLL

/TY

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SU

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Waikiki beach from the tower of the Royal

Hawaiian. Below: the Ty Gurney Surf School

explorer

40 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 41

explorer

This islet just off Puerto Rico is so undeveloped that wild horses still roam the hills and 40-plus beaches, yet it’s easily accessible via puddle jumper from San Juan. BEST FOR Beachy purists who want nothing but sand and sky.BUDGET Low end. Canadian architect John Hix helped turned Vieques into a destination with his dramatic, entirely con-crete and totally affordable Hix Island House (from US$135 per night; hixislandhouse.com). All rooms are three-sided, with the fourth wall open, allowing the trade winds to blow through.DO AS THE LOCALS DO Mosquito Bay sounds awful, but this biolu-minescent bay emits a blue-green glow at night. When you run your hand through the water, it magically glimmers and gleams.

VIEQUESPUERTO RICO

IT HAS FOUR DOZEN BEACHES AND ONLY ONE TRAFFIC LIGHT

B A R B A D O SA PINK-SAND PLAYGROUND

WITH A PATRICIAN VIBE

It’s the sand that sets Barbados apart. Pinkish white and soft as a powder puff, it caresses the island in a gentle embrace thanks to unique geology—Barbados is actually a coral reef that was pushed out of the sea by tectonic plates. And then there’s the architecture: colourful gingerbread houses line the roads, while grand estates and Palladian villas look imposingly out to sea. The 400-year-old settlements of Speightstown, Holetown and Bridgetown are steeped in history. BEST FOR Aspirationalists who like highbrow pursuits. Barbados used to be an exclusive winter playground for British aristo-crats. Their legacy lingers in practically everything there is to do and see, like polo, sailing and opera. BUDGET High end. The luxe Coral Reef Club in Holetown has been a family-run boutique hotel for the past six decades and offers meticulously appointed cottage rooms (from US$850 per night, minimum seven- to 14-night stay; coralreefbarbados.com). It’s an Old World vibe: classic colonial design and white-glove service. Every Wednesday, you can take a tour of the spectacu-lar grounds with the head gardener. DO AS THE LOCALS DO Try the Friday-night fish fry in the village of Oistins for flying fish and blackened barracuda. Save plenty of time for Crane Beach. Lined by dramatic cliffs topping 21 metres high, the beach is known for its bodysurfable waves.

THIS SMALL ISLAND JUST OFF PUERTO RICO IS SO UNDEVELOPED THAT WILD HORSES STILL ROAM THE HILLS

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Hix Island House interior and exterior (below left). Below:

Bridgetown, Barbados

explorer

40 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 41

explorer

This islet just off Puerto Rico is so undeveloped that wild horses still roam the hills and 40-plus beaches, yet it’s easily accessible via puddle jumper from San Juan. BEST FOR Beachy purists who want nothing but sand and sky.BUDGET Low end. Canadian architect John Hix helped turned Vieques into a destination with his dramatic, entirely con-crete and totally affordable Hix Island House (from US$135 per night; hixislandhouse.com). All rooms are three-sided, with the fourth wall open, allowing the trade winds to blow through.DO AS THE LOCALS DO Mosquito Bay sounds awful, but this biolu-minescent bay emits a blue-green glow at night. When you run your hand through the water, it magically glimmers and gleams.

VIEQUESPUERTO RICO

IT HAS FOUR DOZEN BEACHES AND ONLY ONE TRAFFIC LIGHT

B A R B A D O SA PINK-SAND PLAYGROUND

WITH A PATRICIAN VIBE

It’s the sand that sets Barbados apart. Pinkish white and soft as a powder puff, it caresses the island in a gentle embrace thanks to unique geology—Barbados is actually a coral reef that was pushed out of the sea by tectonic plates. And then there’s the architecture: colourful gingerbread houses line the roads, while grand estates and Palladian villas look imposingly out to sea. The 400-year-old settlements of Speightstown, Holetown and Bridgetown are steeped in history. BEST FOR Aspirationalists who like highbrow pursuits. Barbados used to be an exclusive winter playground for British aristo-crats. Their legacy lingers in practically everything there is to do and see, like polo, sailing and opera. BUDGET High end. The luxe Coral Reef Club in Holetown has been a family-run boutique hotel for the past six decades and offers meticulously appointed cottage rooms (from US$850 per night, minimum seven- to 14-night stay; coralreefbarbados.com). It’s an Old World vibe: classic colonial design and white-glove service. Every Wednesday, you can take a tour of the spectacu-lar grounds with the head gardener. DO AS THE LOCALS DO Try the Friday-night fish fry in the village of Oistins for flying fish and blackened barracuda. Save plenty of time for Crane Beach. Lined by dramatic cliffs topping 21 metres high, the beach is known for its bodysurfable waves.

THIS SMALL ISLAND JUST OFF PUERTO RICO IS SO UNDEVELOPED THAT WILD HORSES STILL ROAM THE HILLS

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Hix Island House interior and exterior (below left). Below:

Bridgetown, Barbados

explorer

42 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 43

I N S I D E R

WITH ITS LUSH GREEN MOUNTAINS,

ST. LUCIA LOOKS LIKE A SLUMBERING DRAGON

D O M I N I C A NR E P U B L I CTHE RISE OF THE PRETTY,

UNCLUTTERED NORTH SHORE

With a reputation for package holidays, the Dominican is the last place you expect for a history lesson. But it’s where Christopher Columbus landed in 1492, leaving his brother behind to build Santo Domingo, now the oldest continuously inhabited European city in the Americas. Another surprise here is the island’s natural beauty—with 19 national parks, it’s being wonderfully preserved. BEST FOR Caribbean culture and sun seekers who want to do little. Or a lot. BUDGET Everything from low (the pulsating all-inclusive hotels in Punta Cana) to high. The most anticipated opening is the Gansevoort Playa Imbert on the island’s north shore, a world away from the madding crowd. The 48 sleek and contemporary suites start from US$595 per night (gansevoorthotelgroup.com). Guests can explore the area’s vast wilderness reserve or dive among the shipwrecks. Nearby is Cabarete, the adventure-sports capital of the Dominican—a mecca for surfers, kite surfers and windsurfers. DO AS THE LOCALS DO A two-hour drive from the Gansevoort is the Samaná Peninsula, a 35-kilometre stretch of curving, nearly empty beaches on the Atlantic. Samaná has long been the getaway for Dominicans and in-the-know Europeans, but Canadians are getting in on the act thanks to direct flights from Toronto. From mid-January to March, humpback whales congregate in the Samaná Bay to nurse their young and mate.

ST. LUCIATHE MOST DRAMATIC SCENERY IN THE ISLANDS

St. Lucia looks like a slumbering dragon, with its spiky, lush green mountains tumbling dramatically into the sea. At the end of the volcanic chain of the Antilles, it is the Caribbean’s most mountainous island. The black and silvery beaches in the volca-nic south of the island reflect its tumultuous geology (beaches in the north are golden). Arguably, the volcanic cones of Petit and Gros Piton rising out of the ocean are the most jaw-drop-ping sight in the Caribbean. BEST FOR Romantics and adventurers. The island is covered in a thick blanket of emerald rainforest and has plenty of sporty ad-venture, like zip lining, rainforest eco-tours and hiking up to the top of Gros Piton.BUDGET Mid-range. The guest rooms at the new, contemporary- cool Sugar Beach Viceroy hotel, once an 18th-century sugar plantation, start at US$350 (viceroyhotelsandresorts.com). They’re on the same property as the US$1,000-plus bungalows where Gwyneth Paltrow stayed. DO AS THE LOCALS DO On Fridays, the village of Anse La Raye has a street festival, with stalls selling fish cakes, grilled lobster and hot bakes (biscuits). You’re guaranteed to end up dancing. ✈

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Gingerbread houses in Saman á. Below, far right:

Gansevoort Playa Imbert. Below: the festival at Anse

La Raye, St. Lucia and the Sugar Beach Resort

explorer

42 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 43

I N S I D E R

WITH ITS LUSH GREEN MOUNTAINS,

ST. LUCIA LOOKS LIKE A SLUMBERING DRAGON

D O M I N I C A NR E P U B L I CTHE RISE OF THE PRETTY,

UNCLUTTERED NORTH SHORE

With a reputation for package holidays, the Dominican is the last place you expect for a history lesson. But it’s where Christopher Columbus landed in 1492, leaving his brother behind to build Santo Domingo, now the oldest continuously inhabited European city in the Americas. Another surprise here is the island’s natural beauty—with 19 national parks, it’s being wonderfully preserved. BEST FOR Caribbean culture and sun seekers who want to do little. Or a lot. BUDGET Everything from low (the pulsating all-inclusive hotels in Punta Cana) to high. The most anticipated opening is the Gansevoort Playa Imbert on the island’s north shore, a world away from the madding crowd. The 48 sleek and contemporary suites start from US$595 per night (gansevoorthotelgroup.com). Guests can explore the area’s vast wilderness reserve or dive among the shipwrecks. Nearby is Cabarete, the adventure-sports capital of the Dominican—a mecca for surfers, kite surfers and windsurfers. DO AS THE LOCALS DO A two-hour drive from the Gansevoort is the Samaná Peninsula, a 35-kilometre stretch of curving, nearly empty beaches on the Atlantic. Samaná has long been the getaway for Dominicans and in-the-know Europeans, but Canadians are getting in on the act thanks to direct flights from Toronto. From mid-January to March, humpback whales congregate in the Samaná Bay to nurse their young and mate.

ST. LUCIATHE MOST DRAMATIC SCENERY IN THE ISLANDS

St. Lucia looks like a slumbering dragon, with its spiky, lush green mountains tumbling dramatically into the sea. At the end of the volcanic chain of the Antilles, it is the Caribbean’s most mountainous island. The black and silvery beaches in the volca-nic south of the island reflect its tumultuous geology (beaches in the north are golden). Arguably, the volcanic cones of Petit and Gros Piton rising out of the ocean are the most jaw-drop-ping sight in the Caribbean. BEST FOR Romantics and adventurers. The island is covered in a thick blanket of emerald rainforest and has plenty of sporty ad-venture, like zip lining, rainforest eco-tours and hiking up to the top of Gros Piton.BUDGET Mid-range. The guest rooms at the new, contemporary- cool Sugar Beach Viceroy hotel, once an 18th-century sugar plantation, start at US$350 (viceroyhotelsandresorts.com). They’re on the same property as the US$1,000-plus bungalows where Gwyneth Paltrow stayed. DO AS THE LOCALS DO On Fridays, the village of Anse La Raye has a street festival, with stalls selling fish cakes, grilled lobster and hot bakes (biscuits). You’re guaranteed to end up dancing. ✈

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Gingerbread houses in Saman á. Below, far right:

Gansevoort Playa Imbert. Below: the festival at Anse

La Raye, St. Lucia and the Sugar Beach Resort

explorer

MIAMI'S NEW VICE

The city’s hottest scene is far from its famous beach, in the once-derelict

downtown Design DistrictBY SARAH TRELEAVEN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRACIELA CATTAROSSI

44 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 45

PRADA MARFA, a replica of a Prada boutique created by Scandinavian artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, is a singular attraction set against the desolation of west Texas. On the side of a lonely highway, it’s a landmark that road trippers drive

out of their way to take selfies with and a symbol of our insatiable desire for status goods. More than 2,000 kilometres away, Miami is build ing a real version of that statement piece: a strip of some of the world’s most expensive shops plunked

1

1 Art, like this mural and sculpture garden

nestled between luxury boutiques,

takes centre stage in the Design District

explorer

MIAMI'S NEW VICE

The city’s hottest scene is far from its famous beach, in the once-derelict

downtown Design DistrictBY SARAH TRELEAVEN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRACIELA CATTAROSSI

44 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 45

PRADA MARFA, a replica of a Prada boutique created by Scandinavian artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, is a singular attraction set against the desolation of west Texas. On the side of a lonely highway, it’s a landmark that road trippers drive

out of their way to take selfies with and a symbol of our insatiable desire for status goods. More than 2,000 kilometres away, Miami is build ing a real version of that statement piece: a strip of some of the world’s most expensive shops plunked

1

1 Art, like this mural and sculpture garden

nestled between luxury boutiques,

takes centre stage in the Design District

explorer

46 AWAY WINTER 2015

down among empty lots, graffiti and overgrown scrub. It’s all part of the transformation of the Miami Design District from a seedy, down-at-the-heels neighbourhood to a chic destination for everything from con-temporary art and designer sofas to high fashion and fine dining.

The Design District’s turnaround was cemented in 2012, when Louis Vuitton opened a boutique there, its only free-standing shop in the United States outside of New York City. Now, a number of other prom-inent designers are laying claim to the area. Luxury fashion brands like Givenchy, Tom Ford, Valentino, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Van Cleef & Arpels are opening soon, joining Hermès, Longchamp, Prada,

Rick Owens, Céline and Cartier, which have already set up shop.

Most tourists keep to Miami Beach, with its spring-break vibe that caters to both high- and low-end consump-tion. In quite a different way, the Design District, across the Biscayne Bay on the mainland, is a study in contrasts: a fascinating mix of grit and glamour. Bordering Little Haiti, the neighbourhood’s empty lots, bo-degas, mural art and tropical vibe are more Caribbean than Floridian.

In the midst of all this, N.E. 40th Street emerges as a luxury oa-sis. The sidewalks are expansive, valet parking booths are plentiful and the trellises are wrapped in pink bougainvillea. Near the Rick Owens boutique, a minimalist tem-

2 A flag by artist David Hammons

from the Craig Robins Collection

3 Prada is just one of the designer brands

flocking to the neighbourhood

4 Elastika, a sculpture by Zaha Hadid, in the

atrium of the 1920s Moore Building,

which started as a furniture showroom

ple to high-end white sneakers and black leather goods, is Design and Architecture Senior High, a public school and magnet for arts-minded kids. Calypso music blasted from behind its tall fence one afternoon in October. The jumbled vibe felt very far from the beach.

Culture is a huge part of the Design District. Craig Robins, a Miami prop-erty developer, art collector and philanthropist, is one of the district’s visionaries. Robins also helped bring Art Basel, an international contem-porary art show that began in Basel, Switzerland, to Miami in 2002. The Design District is home to many privately owned and nationally sig-nificant venues for contemporary art, including the Rubell Family

THE DISTRICT IS A STUDY IN CONTRASTS: A FASCINATING MIX OF GRIT

AND GLAMOUR

2 3

4

WINTER 2015 AWAY 47

explorer

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46 AWAY WINTER 2015

down among empty lots, graffiti and overgrown scrub. It’s all part of the transformation of the Miami Design District from a seedy, down-at-the-heels neighbourhood to a chic destination for everything from con-temporary art and designer sofas to high fashion and fine dining.

The Design District’s turnaround was cemented in 2012, when Louis Vuitton opened a boutique there, its only free-standing shop in the United States outside of New York City. Now, a number of other prom-inent designers are laying claim to the area. Luxury fashion brands like Givenchy, Tom Ford, Valentino, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Van Cleef & Arpels are opening soon, joining Hermès, Longchamp, Prada,

Rick Owens, Céline and Cartier, which have already set up shop.

Most tourists keep to Miami Beach, with its spring-break vibe that caters to both high- and low-end consump-tion. In quite a different way, the Design District, across the Biscayne Bay on the mainland, is a study in contrasts: a fascinating mix of grit and glamour. Bordering Little Haiti, the neighbourhood’s empty lots, bo-degas, mural art and tropical vibe are more Caribbean than Floridian.

In the midst of all this, N.E. 40th Street emerges as a luxury oa-sis. The sidewalks are expansive, valet parking booths are plentiful and the trellises are wrapped in pink bougainvillea. Near the Rick Owens boutique, a minimalist tem-

2 A flag by artist David Hammons

from the Craig Robins Collection

3 Prada is just one of the designer brands

flocking to the neighbourhood

4 Elastika, a sculpture by Zaha Hadid, in the

atrium of the 1920s Moore Building,

which started as a furniture showroom

ple to high-end white sneakers and black leather goods, is Design and Architecture Senior High, a public school and magnet for arts-minded kids. Calypso music blasted from behind its tall fence one afternoon in October. The jumbled vibe felt very far from the beach.

Culture is a huge part of the Design District. Craig Robins, a Miami prop-erty developer, art collector and philanthropist, is one of the district’s visionaries. Robins also helped bring Art Basel, an international contem-porary art show that began in Basel, Switzerland, to Miami in 2002. The Design District is home to many privately owned and nationally sig-nificant venues for contemporary art, including the Rubell Family

THE DISTRICT IS A STUDY IN CONTRASTS: A FASCINATING MIX OF GRIT

AND GLAMOUR

2 3

4

WINTER 2015 AWAY 47

explorerPH

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WINTER 2015 AWAY 49

Collection, located on N.W. 29th Street, on the Design District’s out-skirts, and the 30,000-square-foot De La Cruz Collection Contemporary Art Space, which features a mix of U.S. and international stars.

Just as its art venues are in full bloom, the Design District’s dining scene is beginning to mature, with charming outdoor restaurants land-ing next to established pioneers. Michael’s Genuine, owned by the James Beard Award–winning chef Michael Schwartz, opened in 2007 and brought the first hints of high-end locavore cuisine to the neighbourhood. It’s still a popu-lar hub for house-made fruit jams and wood-fired local fish. In a nice touch, Schwartz sources some of his greens from the nearby Little Haiti Community Garden.

Among the newer dining options is Oak Tavern, serving modern American food with a ladies-who-lunch-under-giant-oak-trees vibe. It features a fresh-herb garden in the centre of a shaded courtyard. A few blocks away, Mandolin Aegean Bistro is a destination for Greek dishes like grilled octopus and bak-lava. Its whip-thin, stiletto-clad crowd mostly refuses the fabulous fresh-baked bread.

Big plans are underway to turn the Design District into less of a day-trip draw and more of a full-service community. It’s rare to see an urban American neighbourhood rebuilt from scratch but here, cranes for slick new developments are sprout-ing across the landscape. Much of N.E. 41st Street—just one block from the valets and Valentino—is under construction. Among the new projects are Design41, a boxy steel-and-glass office and retail space; Sweetbird South, Chicago-based architect Jeanne Gang’s 14-storey condo in the shape of a honeycomb; and the high-design Museum Garage car park, which comes with a con-templation garden, tube slide and climbing net. There’s also Paseo Ponti, a sprawling new pedestrian shopping promenade that will extend from N.E. 38th to 42nd streets.

The journey from this part of the

city to Miami Beach is pretty jarring. It takes you past the exclusive real estate of Star, Palm and Hibiscus islands. On the other side of Biscayne Bay is the Miami of sand, decadence, jet setters and tourists of all kinds. By comparison, the Design District is not just rough and ready but tam-er and quieter—a work in progress. You’ll root for it all the same. ✈

5 Michael’s Genuine, by award-winning chef Michael Schwartz, is a hot spot for locavore cuisine6 Area hallmarks: white buildings, cool graphics and a touch of grit from the rail tracks

6

THE DINING SCENE IS BEGINNING TO

MATURE, WITH NEW OPEN-AIR RESTAURANTS LANDING NEXT

TO ESTABLISHED PIONEERS

5

explorer

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TO MIAMI BEACH

HOW TO GET THERE

FLY Several airlines operate direct flights from Toronto Pearson to Miami, including Air Canada, WestJet, American Airlines, United, US Airways and Delta.

STAY The only thing the Design District doesn’t have (yet) is a hotel. Most visitors stay at a Miami Beach resort like Canyon Ranch Hotel & Spa, which has a focus on healthy, active living. Rates start at around US$500 and include spa treatments. canyonranch.com/miamibeach

Three-hour flight from

Toronto Pearson to

Miami

BISCAYNE BAY

WINTER 2015 AWAY 49

Collection, located on N.W. 29th Street, on the Design District’s out-skirts, and the 30,000-square-foot De La Cruz Collection Contemporary Art Space, which features a mix of U.S. and international stars.

Just as its art venues are in full bloom, the Design District’s dining scene is beginning to mature, with charming outdoor restaurants land-ing next to established pioneers. Michael’s Genuine, owned by the James Beard Award–winning chef Michael Schwartz, opened in 2007 and brought the first hints of high-end locavore cuisine to the neighbourhood. It’s still a popu-lar hub for house-made fruit jams and wood-fired local fish. In a nice touch, Schwartz sources some of his greens from the nearby Little Haiti Community Garden.

Among the newer dining options is Oak Tavern, serving modern American food with a ladies-who-lunch-under-giant-oak-trees vibe. It features a fresh-herb garden in the centre of a shaded courtyard. A few blocks away, Mandolin Aegean Bistro is a destination for Greek dishes like grilled octopus and bak-lava. Its whip-thin, stiletto-clad crowd mostly refuses the fabulous fresh-baked bread.

Big plans are underway to turn the Design District into less of a day-trip draw and more of a full-service community. It’s rare to see an urban American neighbourhood rebuilt from scratch but here, cranes for slick new developments are sprout-ing across the landscape. Much of N.E. 41st Street—just one block from the valets and Valentino—is under construction. Among the new projects are Design41, a boxy steel-and-glass office and retail space; Sweetbird South, Chicago-based architect Jeanne Gang’s 14-storey condo in the shape of a honeycomb; and the high-design Museum Garage car park, which comes with a con-templation garden, tube slide and climbing net. There’s also Paseo Ponti, a sprawling new pedestrian shopping promenade that will extend from N.E. 38th to 42nd streets.

The journey from this part of the

city to Miami Beach is pretty jarring. It takes you past the exclusive real estate of Star, Palm and Hibiscus islands. On the other side of Biscayne Bay is the Miami of sand, decadence, jet setters and tourists of all kinds. By comparison, the Design District is not just rough and ready but tam-er and quieter—a work in progress. You’ll root for it all the same. ✈

5 Michael’s Genuine, by award-winning chef Michael Schwartz, is a hot spot for locavore cuisine6 Area hallmarks: white buildings, cool graphics and a touch of grit from the rail tracks

6

THE DINING SCENE IS BEGINNING TO

MATURE, WITH NEW OPEN-AIR RESTAURANTS LANDING NEXT

TO ESTABLISHED PIONEERS

5

explorerM

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IAM

I AV

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EDER

AL

HW

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NE 42ND ST

NE 39TH ST

TO MIAMI BEACH

HOW TO GET THERE

FLY Several airlines operate direct flights from Toronto Pearson to Miami, including Air Canada, WestJet, American Airlines, United, US Airways and Delta.

STAY The only thing the Design District doesn’t have (yet) is a hotel. Most visitors stay at a Miami Beach resort like Canyon Ranch Hotel & Spa, which has a focus on healthy, active living. Rates start at around US$500 and include spa treatments. canyonranch.com/miamibeach

Three-hour flight from

Toronto Pearson to

Miami

BISCAYNE BAY

d e tou r sCITY GUIDES DESIGNED BY EXPERTS

Hanging out in Mitte, Berlin's cultural core

WINTER 2015 AWAY 51

d e tou r sCITY GUIDES DESIGNED BY EXPERTS

Hanging out in Mitte, Berlin's cultural core

WINTER 2015 AWAY 51

Berlin is a city of pockets, corners and alleys. Of course it has a centre, called Mitte, with all the top historical des-tinations: Berliner Dom, the Brandenburg Gate, the Reich-stag. Guided walking tours are a sure bet—try Original Berlin Walks (berlinwalks.de) and ask for Finn, who does Second World War, Cold War, Jewish life and LGBT tours. But after you get your photo taken beside one of the last fragments of the Berlin Wall, another, less haunted version of Germany awaits.

A city of nearly 100 Kiez, the local equivalent of a ’hood, Berlin is best explored on foot, with enough time to dig around in a dusty book-store, people-watch in a noisy café packed with interna-tional students or wander through one of the madcap markets. Unlike other inter-national capitals, Berlin is leisurely and a bit introvert-ed. Berliners can’t be both-ered with status anxiety.

NEIGHBOURHOODMitte, Berlin’s central borough, is home to dozens of smart art galleries, smarter museums and well-manicured, generous parks.

YOUR GUIDER. M. Vaughan is a Canadian writer who divides his time between Toronto and Berlin. His newest book, Bright Eyed: Insomnia and Its Cultures, will be published in May 2015.

BERLINLeisurely and introverted, the German city is best explored on foot

HANGOUTThe grand, old-fashioned department store KaDeWe opened in 1907. It’s expensive, but you don’t need to buy much—a bit of fancy chocolate, some stationery—to experience the extravagance of the place. There’s an entire section dedicated to offal, another to tobacco and a champagne bar. kadewe.de

BEST-KEPT SECRETFranken Bar is a rundown, smoky bar in Berlin’s punk- anarchist Oranien-strasse district. The place completely epitomizes Berlin’s surly underside. Tip well, or else. franken-bar.de

COOL STUFF1. The beautiful memory game 32xBerlin features local photographs by Friederike von Rauch.2. Made from sugar beets, Held vodka tastes like a hearty alcohol salad. 3. Germans adore gnomes shameless-ly, and so should you.

d e tou r s

RESTAURANTBerliners will tell you there’s no such thing as German cuisine. But there’s Austrian cooking, and Austria Restaurant serves savoury semmelknödel (bread dumplings) the size of baseballs. austria-berlin.de

HOTELEveryone stays at the Adlon—everyone rich, that is. The leg-endary five-star hotel, located right across from the Brandenburg Gate, is luxury incarnate. It's also where Michael Jackson dangled his baby from a balcony. Starting at $350 per night. hotel-adlon.de

52 AWAY WINTER 2015

Nine-hour flight from Toronto Pearson

BERLIN

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Berlin is a city of pockets, corners and alleys. Of course it has a centre, called Mitte, with all the top historical des-tinations: Berliner Dom, the Brandenburg Gate, the Reich-stag. Guided walking tours are a sure bet—try Original Berlin Walks (berlinwalks.de) and ask for Finn, who does Second World War, Cold War, Jewish life and LGBT tours. But after you get your photo taken beside one of the last fragments of the Berlin Wall, another, less haunted version of Germany awaits.

A city of nearly 100 Kiez, the local equivalent of a ’hood, Berlin is best explored on foot, with enough time to dig around in a dusty book-store, people-watch in a noisy café packed with interna-tional students or wander through one of the madcap markets. Unlike other inter-national capitals, Berlin is leisurely and a bit introvert-ed. Berliners can’t be both-ered with status anxiety.

NEIGHBOURHOODMitte, Berlin’s central borough, is home to dozens of smart art galleries, smarter museums and well-manicured, generous parks.

YOUR GUIDER. M. Vaughan is a Canadian writer who divides his time between Toronto and Berlin. His newest book, Bright Eyed: Insomnia and Its Cultures, will be published in May 2015.

BERLINLeisurely and introverted, the German city is best explored on foot

HANGOUTThe grand, old-fashioned department store KaDeWe opened in 1907. It’s expensive, but you don’t need to buy much—a bit of fancy chocolate, some stationery—to experience the extravagance of the place. There’s an entire section dedicated to offal, another to tobacco and a champagne bar. kadewe.de

BEST-KEPT SECRETFranken Bar is a rundown, smoky bar in Berlin’s punk- anarchist Oranien-strasse district. The place completely epitomizes Berlin’s surly underside. Tip well, or else. franken-bar.de

COOL STUFF1. The beautiful memory game 32xBerlin features local photographs by Friederike von Rauch.2. Made from sugar beets, Held vodka tastes like a hearty alcohol salad. 3. Germans adore gnomes shameless-ly, and so should you.

d e tou r s

RESTAURANTBerliners will tell you there’s no such thing as German cuisine. But there’s Austrian cooking, and Austria Restaurant serves savoury semmelknödel (bread dumplings) the size of baseballs. austria-berlin.de

HOTELEveryone stays at the Adlon—everyone rich, that is. The leg-endary five-star hotel, located right across from the Brandenburg Gate, is luxury incarnate. It's also where Michael Jackson dangled his baby from a balcony. Starting at $350 per night. hotel-adlon.de

52 AWAY WINTER 2015

Nine-hour flight from Toronto Pearson

BERLIN

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WINTER 2015 AWAY 55

With its imposing monu-ments, chaotic streets and bustling beaches, Mumbai doesn’t conceal its ambitions or its flaws. Among the bold-est declarations of Mumbai’s immodesty are a golden-hued 75-storey Trump Tower (now in the planning stages) and the 27-storey private home of Muk esh Ambani. The current building boom has dropped shiny new malls in former industrial zones and planted sleek towers alongside slums.

But the city’s older plea-sures are enduring, includ-ing the excellent restaurants in the historical quarter. In Mumbai you can still turn a busy downtown corner and stumble into a waterfront fishing village. You can survey it all from a rooftop restaurant near Chowpatty beach or in a café in Bandra West. Even the way of doing laundry—brought from all over the city to be washed in Dhobi Ghat—is a spectacle.

YOUR GUIDERooshad Shroff is an architect and designer who draws inspiration from traditional Indian craft. He designed the Christian Louboutin stores in Mumbai and Bangkok.

MUMBAIWhere to find a few quiet moments in India’s brashest city

NEIGHBOURHOODOn narrow streets in southern Mumbai, Khotachiwadi’s Portuguese-style bungalows are under threat by encroaching development—so see this adorable neighbourhood while you can.

d e tou r s

LOCAL SECRETPart of the Walkeshwar Temple complex, the historic Banganga water tank, built in 1127, is tucked away in the affluent Malabar Hill neighbourhood. It’s a holy place for Hindus and was a spring for the Ganges according to local mythology.

COOL STUFF1. Spruce up your walls with vin-tage Bollywood posters from Chor Bazaar, a sprawling flea market. 2. Pick up Tiffin containers, used by dabbawallas to deliver hot lunches, at Crawford Market.

54 AWAY WINTER 2015

Anyone who hasn’t visited Toronto in a decade would barely recognize its skyline today. The city is shape-shift-ing rapidly, as neighbourhoods morph, skyscrapers reach higher and the sprawl pushes into the suburbs.

Toronto is a city in demand —more than 100,000 people are arriving to live here each year. Amazingly, this hasn't changed the heart of the place—it’s a city of neighbour-hoods, most of which have their own distinct architec-ture, streetscapes and culture.

Visitors should spend their time hopping from one en-clave to the next. In the west end, there’s Parkdale, College, Ossington and Dundas—full of indie cafés and hot restau-rants. In midtown, you'll find Summerhill’s upscale bou-tiques. In the east, Corktown has the Distillery District and the athletes’ village for the 2015 Pan Am Games. It’s all something of an adventure.

HOTELThe Hazelton is very stylish and close to great shopping and prime people- watching. theha-zeltonhotel.com

RESTAURANTChef Grant van Gameren’s Bar Isabel is an inventive Spanish restaurant on College Street. The seafood plates, especially the octopus, are amazing. barisabel.com

HANGOUTA 10-minute streetcar ride from the core, the Distillery District in Corktown is one of the city’s most vibrant developments, housing galleries, restaurants, shops and, in keeping with its history, a local brewery. thedistillerydistrict.com

YOUR GUIDESarah Richardson is a Canadian inte-rior designer. Her projects range from her TV series (Sarah’s House, Design Inc., Sarah 101) to her job as Good House-keeping’s home design director. Her latest book is Sarah Style.

TORONTOEven in boom times, the neighbourhood vibe endures

LOCAL SECRETThe Evergreen Brick Works is an incredible environmental centre tucked in the Don Valley but close to mid-town. One if its nicest features in the winter is a sweet (and free) skating rink. evergreen.ca

COOL STUFF1. Queen West Antique Centre has amazing mid- century modern furniture. qwac.ca2. Take home state-ment earrings from Cynthia Findlay Antiques. cynthia findlay.com3. The Nicholas Metivier Gallery represents inter-national artists like Edward Burtynsky and Chuck Close. metiviergallery.com

NEIGHBOURHOODQueen West, along the whole 501 streetcar route, goes through great neighbourhoods, from the Beach to Roncesvalles.

HANGOUTThe walkable Kala Ghoda art district in South Mumbai is home to the institutional (the National Gallery of Modern Art) and the independent (Gallery Maskara).

RESTAURANTNeel at Tote on the Turf specializ-es in upscale Indian food with rich Hyderabadi flavours. The design, by architects Chris Lee and Kapil Gupta, is minimalist chic. thetote.in

HOTELThe Taj Mahal Palace looks over the Arabian Sea like a maharaja surveying his kingdom. From $500 per night. tajhotels.com

MUMBAI20-hour flight from Toronto Pearson

AIRPORT INFOToronto Pearson International Airport is 32 kilometres northwest of downtown.

Go bus For $5.70,

take Go service from the airport to Yorkdale or York Mills subway.

Taxi Rate to

the city centre is around $55. It can take about 30 minutes if traffic is good.

TTC For $3,

ride the TTC bus to Kipling, then transfer to the subway for downtown.

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WINTER 2015 AWAY 55

With its imposing monu-ments, chaotic streets and bustling beaches, Mumbai doesn’t conceal its ambitions or its flaws. Among the bold-est declarations of Mumbai’s immodesty are a golden-hued 75-storey Trump Tower (now in the planning stages) and the 27-storey private home of Muk esh Ambani. The current building boom has dropped shiny new malls in former industrial zones and planted sleek towers alongside slums.

But the city’s older plea-sures are enduring, includ-ing the excellent restaurants in the historical quarter. In Mumbai you can still turn a busy downtown corner and stumble into a waterfront fishing village. You can survey it all from a rooftop restaurant near Chowpatty beach or in a café in Bandra West. Even the way of doing laundry—brought from all over the city to be washed in Dhobi Ghat—is a spectacle.

YOUR GUIDERooshad Shroff is an architect and designer who draws inspiration from traditional Indian craft. He designed the Christian Louboutin stores in Mumbai and Bangkok.

MUMBAIWhere to find a few quiet moments in India’s brashest city

NEIGHBOURHOODOn narrow streets in southern Mumbai, Khotachiwadi’s Portuguese-style bungalows are under threat by encroaching development—so see this adorable neighbourhood while you can.

d e tou r s

LOCAL SECRETPart of the Walkeshwar Temple complex, the historic Banganga water tank, built in 1127, is tucked away in the affluent Malabar Hill neighbourhood. It’s a holy place for Hindus and was a spring for the Ganges according to local mythology.

COOL STUFF1. Spruce up your walls with vin-tage Bollywood posters from Chor Bazaar, a sprawling flea market. 2. Pick up Tiffin containers, used by dabbawallas to deliver hot lunches, at Crawford Market.

54 AWAY WINTER 2015

Anyone who hasn’t visited Toronto in a decade would barely recognize its skyline today. The city is shape-shift-ing rapidly, as neighbourhoods morph, skyscrapers reach higher and the sprawl pushes into the suburbs.

Toronto is a city in demand —more than 100,000 people are arriving to live here each year. Amazingly, this hasn't changed the heart of the place—it’s a city of neighbour-hoods, most of which have their own distinct architec-ture, streetscapes and culture.

Visitors should spend their time hopping from one en-clave to the next. In the west end, there’s Parkdale, College, Ossington and Dundas—full of indie cafés and hot restau-rants. In midtown, you'll find Summerhill’s upscale bou-tiques. In the east, Corktown has the Distillery District and the athletes’ village for the 2015 Pan Am Games. It’s all something of an adventure.

HOTELThe Hazelton is very stylish and close to great shopping and prime people- watching. theha-zeltonhotel.com

RESTAURANTChef Grant van Gameren’s Bar Isabel is an inventive Spanish restaurant on College Street. The seafood plates, especially the octopus, are amazing. barisabel.com

HANGOUTA 10-minute streetcar ride from the core, the Distillery District in Corktown is one of the city’s most vibrant developments, housing galleries, restaurants, shops and, in keeping with its history, a local brewery. thedistillerydistrict.com

YOUR GUIDESarah Richardson is a Canadian inte-rior designer. Her projects range from her TV series (Sarah’s House, Design Inc., Sarah 101) to her job as Good House-keeping’s home design director. Her latest book is Sarah Style.

TORONTOEven in boom times, the neighbourhood vibe endures

LOCAL SECRETThe Evergreen Brick Works is an incredible environmental centre tucked in the Don Valley but close to mid-town. One if its nicest features in the winter is a sweet (and free) skating rink. evergreen.ca

COOL STUFF1. Queen West Antique Centre has amazing mid- century modern furniture. qwac.ca2. Take home state-ment earrings from Cynthia Findlay Antiques. cynthia findlay.com3. The Nicholas Metivier Gallery represents inter-national artists like Edward Burtynsky and Chuck Close. metiviergallery.com

NEIGHBOURHOODQueen West, along the whole 501 streetcar route, goes through great neighbourhoods, from the Beach to Roncesvalles.

HANGOUTThe walkable Kala Ghoda art district in South Mumbai is home to the institutional (the National Gallery of Modern Art) and the independent (Gallery Maskara).

RESTAURANTNeel at Tote on the Turf specializ-es in upscale Indian food with rich Hyderabadi flavours. The design, by architects Chris Lee and Kapil Gupta, is minimalist chic. thetote.in

HOTELThe Taj Mahal Palace looks over the Arabian Sea like a maharaja surveying his kingdom. From $500 per night. tajhotels.com

MUMBAI20-hour flight from Toronto Pearson

AIRPORT INFOToronto Pearson International Airport is 32 kilometres northwest of downtown.

Go bus For $5.70,

take Go service from the airport to Yorkdale or York Mills subway.

Taxi Rate to

the city centre is around $55. It can take about 30 minutes if traffic is good.

TTC For $3,

ride the TTC bus to Kipling, then transfer to the subway for downtown.

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WINTER 2015 AWAY 57

explorer

TERMINAL 3

AIRPORT ROAD409

427

TERMINAL 1

WAY F I N D e rHOW TO NAVIGATE TORONTO PEARSON

ILLU

STRA

TIO

N B

Y A

LIC

E C

HO

INFOFor online guides to Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, go to

torontopearson.com

Terminal Link Train

WINTER 2015 AWAY 57

explorer

TERMINAL 3

AIRPORT ROAD409

427

TERMINAL 1

WAY F I N D e rHOW TO NAVIGATE TORONTO PEARSON

ILLU

STRA

TIO

N B

Y A

LIC

E C

HO

INFOFor online guides to Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, go to

torontopearson.com

Terminal Link Train

58 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 59

TO GATES D1–D12

TO GATES F84–99

611

46

2

8

38, 41 87

92

54

53 59

12

4

9

86

70

60

66

8918

5

56

56

3

12

7

65

16

69

62

71-72

67

58

44

15

55

4564

76

7735

73

80

5139

78

48

50

47

90-91, 93

85

79

D44

6, 9-11, 14

832527

84 8849

6357,68

52

17 13

L2 Bridge Level

74

75

82

81 26, 3740, 42-43

19, 21, 23, 36

20, 22, 24, 28-34

CAFÉS & SNACKS1 A&W 2 Caffé di Calabria3 Caffè Ritazza4 Camden Food Co.5 Cibo Express Gourmet Markets6 Extreme Pita7 The Great Canadian Bagel8 Heirloom Bakery Café9 The Marketplace10 Purblendz11 Starbucks12 Starbucks13 Starbucks 14 Thai Express 15 Tim Hortons16 Tim Hortons17 Tim Hortons18 Upper Crust

FASHION & ACCESSORIES19 Burberry20 Bvlgari21 Coach22 Gucci23 Longchamp24 Longines25 Metalsmiths Sterling26 Metalsmiths Sterling27 Metalsmiths Sterling28 Michael Kors29 Montblanc30 Omega31 Rado32 Salvatore Ferragamo33 Swarovski34 Tissot35 Tumi36 Victoria’s Secret37 Victoria’s Secret

HEALTH & BEAUTY38 :10 Minute Manicure39 :10 Minute Manicure40 Aveda41 The Body Shop 42 Jo Malone43 MAC Cosmetics

Nearest GateD37E/F70E/F81D33F61D45F89E75D45 D45D45F62E75D45 D51F66E74F57

E75E76E75E76 E75E76D40D20F60E76E76E76E76E76E76E76E77E75D20

D37F67D20D37 D20D20

Nearest GateD/F51D22D42F83D/F55E77F60F67E69D4D35D20

F62,63E74D20D4F57D39E73E78D20F60F57D/F51E74F64D36E73E73

D31

D12 D11

D28

D9 D5

D3

D1

D8

D7

D4

D10

D33

D35

D37

F62

F60

F66a/b

F64a/b

D39

D40 D41

D42 D43

D45

E76

E77

F34 D34

F68 E68 F70 E70

F71 E71

F78 E78

F79 E79

F32 D32

D38

F63

F65

F67

F61

F82

F83 F84–99

E74

E75

D26

D24

D22

D20

F36 D36

F69 E69

F80 E80

F81 E81

F72 E72

F73 E73

D51F51

D53F53 D55

F55

D57F57

L1 Arrivals Level

L2 Bridge Level

PUBLIC AREA

NEWS & BOOKS44 Ink45 Maclean’s46 Relay47 Relay48 Relay49 Relay50 Relay 51 Relay52 Relay53 Streetcar54 Watermark55 Watermark

RESTAURANTS & BARS56 Apropos57 Asobu58 Bar:12059 Beaches Boardwalk Café 60 Boccone Pronto61 Boccone Trattoria62 Fetta63 Marathi64 Mill St. Brewery65 Molson Pub66 Queen West Bar67 Red Rocket68 True Burger Co.69 True Burger Co.70 Twist by Roger Mooking71 Via Della Bici by Casey’s72 Vinifera

RETAIL SERVICES73 Plaza Premium Lounge74 Plaza Premium Lounge75 Plaza Premium Lounge76 Travelex Currency Exchange77 Travelex Currency Exchange78 Travelex Currency Exchange79 Walter’s Shoeshine80 Walter’s Shoeshine81 Walter’s Shoeshine82 Walter’s Shoeshine

SOUVENIRS & GIFTS83 Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post

SPECIALTY STORES84 Best Buy Express85 Best Buy Express86 Best Buy Express87 Davids Tea88 The Duty Free Store by Nuance89 The Duty Free Store by Nuance90 iStore91 Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory92 The Source93 Sunglass Hut

T1 RETAIL INDEX

BathroomNursing StationInfoEscalatorElevatorAirline Service LoungeTTYBus BayGovernment Services Connection CentrePlay Area

TERMINAL 1Canada, USA and international arrivals and departures

GATES

D CanadaE InternationalF USA

SERVICES

PARKING

D6

Nearest GateE77D20F82D51E76F60D33F65D20F57

D38

E73D20D31D35E76F61 D36 D36F60F36

SWING GATESDepending on flight

schedules, these gates may not be accessible to all passengers at all times.

For more information, call 416-AIRPORT.

way f i n d e r

58 AWAY WINTER 2015 WINTER 2015 AWAY 59

TO GATES D1–D12

TO GATES F84–99

611

46

2

8

38, 41 87

92

54

53 59

12

4

9

86

70

60

66

8918

5

56

56

3

12

7

65

16

69

62

71-72

67

58

44

15

55

4564

76

7735

73

80

5139

78

48

50

47

90-91, 93

85

79

D44

6, 9-11, 14

832527

84 8849

6357,68

52

17 13

L2 Bridge Level

74

75

82

81 26, 3740, 42-43

19, 21, 23, 36

20, 22, 24, 28-34

CAFÉS & SNACKS1 A&W 2 Caffé di Calabria3 Caffè Ritazza4 Camden Food Co.5 Cibo Express Gourmet Markets6 Extreme Pita7 The Great Canadian Bagel8 Heirloom Bakery Café9 The Marketplace10 Purblendz11 Starbucks12 Starbucks13 Starbucks 14 Thai Express 15 Tim Hortons16 Tim Hortons17 Tim Hortons18 Upper Crust

FASHION & ACCESSORIES19 Burberry20 Bvlgari21 Coach22 Gucci23 Longchamp24 Longines25 Metalsmiths Sterling26 Metalsmiths Sterling27 Metalsmiths Sterling28 Michael Kors29 Montblanc30 Omega31 Rado32 Salvatore Ferragamo33 Swarovski34 Tissot35 Tumi36 Victoria’s Secret37 Victoria’s Secret

HEALTH & BEAUTY38 :10 Minute Manicure39 :10 Minute Manicure40 Aveda41 The Body Shop 42 Jo Malone43 MAC Cosmetics

Nearest GateD37E/F70E/F81D33F61D45F89E75D45 D45D45F62E75D45 D51F66E74F57

E75E76E75E76 E75E76D40D20F60E76E76E76E76E76E76E76E77E75D20

D37F67D20D37 D20D20

Nearest GateD/F51D22D42F83D/F55E77F60F67E69D4D35D20

F62,63E74D20D4F57D39E73E78D20F60F57D/F51E74F64D36E73E73

D31

D12 D11

D28

D9 D5

D3

D1

D8

D7

D4

D10

D33

D35

D37

F62

F60

F66a/b

F64a/b

D39

D40 D41

D42 D43

D45

E76

E77

F34 D34

F68 E68 F70 E70

F71 E71

F78 E78

F79 E79

F32 D32

D38

F63

F65

F67

F61

F82

F83 F84–99

E74

E75

D26

D24

D22

D20

F36 D36

F69 E69

F80 E80

F81 E81

F72 E72

F73 E73

D51F51

D53F53 D55

F55

D57F57

L1 Arrivals Level

L2 Bridge Level

PUBLIC AREA

NEWS & BOOKS44 Ink45 Maclean’s46 Relay47 Relay48 Relay49 Relay50 Relay 51 Relay52 Relay53 Streetcar54 Watermark55 Watermark

RESTAURANTS & BARS56 Apropos57 Asobu58 Bar:12059 Beaches Boardwalk Café 60 Boccone Pronto61 Boccone Trattoria62 Fetta63 Marathi64 Mill St. Brewery65 Molson Pub66 Queen West Bar67 Red Rocket68 True Burger Co.69 True Burger Co.70 Twist by Roger Mooking71 Via Della Bici by Casey’s72 Vinifera

RETAIL SERVICES73 Plaza Premium Lounge74 Plaza Premium Lounge75 Plaza Premium Lounge76 Travelex Currency Exchange77 Travelex Currency Exchange78 Travelex Currency Exchange79 Walter’s Shoeshine80 Walter’s Shoeshine81 Walter’s Shoeshine82 Walter’s Shoeshine

SOUVENIRS & GIFTS83 Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post

SPECIALTY STORES84 Best Buy Express85 Best Buy Express86 Best Buy Express87 Davids Tea88 The Duty Free Store by Nuance89 The Duty Free Store by Nuance90 iStore91 Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory92 The Source93 Sunglass Hut

T1 RETAIL INDEX

BathroomNursing StationInfoEscalatorElevatorAirline Service LoungeTTYBus BayGovernment Services Connection CentrePlay Area

TERMINAL 1Canada, USA and international arrivals and departures

GATES

D CanadaE InternationalF USA

SERVICES

PARKING

D6

Nearest GateE77D20F82D51E76F60D33F65D20F57

D38

E73D20D31D35E76F61 D36 D36F60F36

SWING GATESDepending on flight

schedules, these gates may not be accessible to all passengers at all times.

For more information, call 416-AIRPORT.

way f i n d e r

60 AWAY WINTER 2015

5

7

3

1113

10

14

12

15

31

19

20

6

26

27

25

22

18

21

23

16

17

8

2

35

4

29

39

32

36

3736

38

28 30

24

33

1

9

SOUVENIRS & GIFTS31 Discover Canada

SPECIALTY STORES32 Best Buy Express33 Best Buy Express34 Davids Tea35 The Duty Free Store by Nuance36 The Duty Free Store by Nuance37 The Duty Free Store by Nuance38 The Duty Free Store by Nuance39 iStore

CAFÉS & SNACKS1 Brioche Dorée 2 Corso3 Freshii4 Heirloom Bakery Café5 Starbucks6 Starbucks7 Tim Hortons8 Tim Hortons

FASHION & ACCESSORIES9 Metalsmiths Sterling

NEWS & BOOKS10 Frontpage News 11 Ink12 Ink13 Maclean’s14 Streetcar15 Watermark

RESTAURANTS & BARS16 Acer17 Caplansky’s Deli18 The Cork & Well19 Fionn MacCool’s20 Meteor21 Nobel Burger Bar22 Toast of Queen Street23 Vinifera

RETAIL SERVICES24 Plaza Premium Lounge25 Plaza Premium Lounge26 Travelex Currency Exchange27 Travelex Currency Exchange28 Travelex Currency Exchange29 Walter’s Shoeshine30 Walter’s Shoeshine

Nearest GateC33B29A/B20C31A/B19B39B22B26

B27

B26B24B41A11A10C36

C36B39A/B19B24A10A13B27C32

B24C32B39C36A11B26A11

T3 RETAIL INDEX

Nearest GateB41

B28C34B27B27C36C30A11B26

TERMINAL 3Canada, USA and international arrivals and departures

PUBLIC AREA

A13

A7 A6

B22

B27

B28

B29

B37

B38

B39

B40

B41

C30

C35 C34

C31

A12

A11

A10

A9

A8

B24

B25

B26

C32

C36

C33

B14 A14

B19 A19

B20 A20

B15 A15

B16 A16

B17 A17

B18 A18

PARKING

SWING GATESDepending on flight

schedules, these gates may not be accessible to all passengers at all times.

For more information, call 416-AIRPORT.

A Canada/USAB CanadaC USA

BathroomNursing StationInfoEscalatorElevatorAirline Service LoungeTTYBus BayGovernment Services Connection CentrePlay Area

GATES

SERVICES

way f i n d e r

60 AWAY WINTER 2015

5

7

3

1113

10

14

12

15

31

19

20

6

26

27

25

22

18

21

23

16

17

8

2

35

4

29

39

32

36

3736

38

28 30

24

33

1

9

SOUVENIRS & GIFTS31 Discover Canada

SPECIALTY STORES32 Best Buy Express33 Best Buy Express34 Davids Tea35 The Duty Free Store by Nuance36 The Duty Free Store by Nuance37 The Duty Free Store by Nuance38 The Duty Free Store by Nuance39 iStore

CAFÉS & SNACKS1 Brioche Dorée 2 Corso3 Freshii4 Heirloom Bakery Café5 Starbucks6 Starbucks7 Tim Hortons8 Tim Hortons

FASHION & ACCESSORIES9 Metalsmiths Sterling

NEWS & BOOKS10 Frontpage News 11 Ink12 Ink13 Maclean’s14 Streetcar15 Watermark

RESTAURANTS & BARS16 Acer17 Caplansky’s Deli18 The Cork & Well19 Fionn MacCool’s20 Meteor21 Nobel Burger Bar22 Toast of Queen Street23 Vinifera

RETAIL SERVICES24 Plaza Premium Lounge25 Plaza Premium Lounge26 Travelex Currency Exchange27 Travelex Currency Exchange28 Travelex Currency Exchange29 Walter’s Shoeshine30 Walter’s Shoeshine

Nearest GateC33B29A/B20C31A/B19B39B22B26

B27

B26B24B41A11A10C36

C36B39A/B19B24A10A13B27C32

B24C32B39C36A11B26A11

T3 RETAIL INDEX

Nearest GateB41

B28C34B27B27C36C30A11B26

TERMINAL 3Canada, USA and international arrivals and departures

PUBLIC AREA

A13

A7 A6

B22

B27

B28

B29

B37

B38

B39

B40

B41

C30

C35 C34

C31

A12

A11

A10

A9

A8

B24

B25

B26

C32

C36

C33

B14 A14

B19 A19

B20 A20

B15 A15

B16 A16

B17 A17

B18 A18

PARKING

SWING GATESDepending on flight

schedules, these gates may not be accessible to all passengers at all times.

For more information, call 416-AIRPORT.

A Canada/USAB CanadaC USA

BathroomNursing StationInfoEscalatorElevatorAirline Service LoungeTTYBus BayGovernment Services Connection CentrePlay Area

GATES

SERVICES

way f i n d e r

Your journey starts here.

Travel from downtown to Pearson Airport

in 45 minutes with your TTC fare.*

Plan your trip at ttc.ca

* The 192 Airport Rocket leaves from Kipling Station. Average travel time is based on a

30-minute subway ride from Bloor-Yonge to Kipling and a 15-minute bus ride to the airport.

AD #: ART_00_TTC46493E

CLIENT: TTC

PRODUCT: CORPORATE

SIZE: 6.5 X 10.5

COLOR: 4C

DATE: NOV. 24, 2014

PUBLICATION: AWAY

ART_00_TTC46493E.indd 1 2014-11-20 5:58 PM

62 AWAY WINTER 2015

j e t a g e

For 1964, it was a shocker. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton arrived at Toronto’s Malton Airport in January, conspicuously intertwined but conspicuously unmar-ried after both receiving quickie Mexican divorces. Taylor had dumped singer Eddie Fisher for Burton, her co-star in Cleopatra, and Burton was so besotted with her that he brought Taylor to Toronto for his stint as Hamlet at the O’Keefe Centre. For weeks, the couple nested in the King Edward Hotel. Puritanical protesters marched outside, decrying their home-wrecking ways (this being the early ’60s, she got most

of the blame). Fans tracked their every move. By the time Burton popped the question in the King Edward’s Sovereign Ballroom and they scooted off to Montreal to get married (the first of two times they’d do so), Liz and Dick had become the most iconic couple in the world.

STIRRING UP A STORMThe whirlwind courtship of Liz and Dick

1964

FROM THE ARCHIVES

PHO

TOG

RAPH

BY

EDD

Y RO

WO

RTH

/ TO

RON

TO S

TAR

/ GET

TY

Your journey starts here.

Travel from downtown to Pearson Airport

in 45 minutes with your TTC fare.*

Plan your trip at ttc.ca

* The 192 Airport Rocket leaves from Kipling Station. Average travel time is based on a

30-minute subway ride from Bloor-Yonge to Kipling and a 15-minute bus ride to the airport.

AD #: ART_00_TTC46493E

CLIENT: TTC

PRODUCT: CORPORATE

SIZE: 6.5 X 10.5

COLOR: 4C

DATE: NOV. 24, 2014

PUBLICATION: AWAY

ART_00_TTC46493E.indd 1 2014-11-20 5:58 PM

62 AWAY WINTER 2015

j e t a g e

For 1964, it was a shocker. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton arrived at Toronto’s Malton Airport in January, conspicuously intertwined but conspicuously unmar-ried after both receiving quickie Mexican divorces. Taylor had dumped singer Eddie Fisher for Burton, her co-star in Cleopatra, and Burton was so besotted with her that he brought Taylor to Toronto for his stint as Hamlet at the O’Keefe Centre. For weeks, the couple nested in the King Edward Hotel. Puritanical protesters marched outside, decrying their home-wrecking ways (this being the early ’60s, she got most

of the blame). Fans tracked their every move. By the time Burton popped the question in the King Edward’s Sovereign Ballroom and they scooted off to Montreal to get married (the first of two times they’d do so), Liz and Dick had become the most iconic couple in the world.

STIRRING UP A STORMThe whirlwind courtship of Liz and Dick

1964

FROM THE ARCHIVES

PHO

TOG

RAPH

BY

EDD

Y RO

WO

RTH

/ TO

RON

TO S

TAR

/ GET

TY

cloud 10.TM

Discover

Complimentary

Wi-Fi

Complimentary

Priority Security Lane†

Complimentary

Valet†††

Complimentary

Lounge Access††

15% Parking Discount††††

An elevated travel experience at

Toronto Pearson International Airport.

Visit amexcloud10.ca to discover

premium travel benefits.*

It’s all part of the service.

*Only on select cards. Terms and Conditions apply. TM, ®: Used by Amex Bank of Canada under license from American Express. ®*: Aeroplan and AeroplanPlus are registered

trademarks of Aimia Canada Inc. ®†, TM†: Trademarks of AIR MILES International Trading B.V. Used under license by LoyaltyOne, Inc. and Amex Bank of Canada. †Conditions

apply. Select American Express® Cards are eligible for this beneft: The Centurion® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express®

AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express Corporate

Platinum Card, and the American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. ††Air Canada Maple Leaf Lounge Access is a card beneft available to: The Centurion® Card

from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. Plaza Premium Lounge

Access is a card beneft available to: The Centurion® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve

Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, and The American Express Corporate Platinum Card. †††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible

for this beneft: The Centurion® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The

Business Platinum Card® from American Express. Toronto Pearson Valet Care Service – Basic and Supplementary Platinum Card members must present a valid, unexpired

Platinum Card when picking up vehicle for $25 Valet fee to be waived, provided the associated parking fee is charged to your Platinum Card. Waived fee applies only to Toronto

Pearson Airport Valet Services in Terminal 1 and 3. For more information on Valet Service visit torontopearson.com. ††††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible for

this beneft: The Centurion® card from American Express, the American Express Platinum Card, the American Express AeroplanPlus Platinum Card, and The Business Platinum

Card from American Express.

OGILVY DIVISION PUB: Away Toronto Pearson AD #: AM-BR4-2014-FP-GTAAway

Print Production Contact: FORMAT: Magazine FILE:01-40140-AM-BR4-2014-FP-GTAAway-SWOP.pdf

Chris Rozak TRIM: 6.5" x 10.5" CLIENT: American Express

RedWorks Delivery/Technical Support: (416) 945-2388 JOB #: P.AP.AP ADV.14124.K.011

O G I LV Y O P E R AT O R

E G

PA S S

F i n a l

S:6”

S:1

0”

T:6.5”

T:1

0.5

”B:6.75”

B:1

0.7

5”

A GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRAVEL, SHOPPING AND FUN II WINTER 2015

LOSE YOURSELF IN LIMA Plus GREAT ESCAPES TO MIAMI, MUMBAI, BERLIN and MORE