Bringing Conservation From the Countryside to Your Backyard

A cooperative project of

USDA Natural Resources Conservation ServiceNational Association of Conservation DistrictsWildlife Habitat Council

Backyard Conservation

I N T R O D U C T I O N

Farmers and ranchers, and manyhomeowners, are making progress innatural resource protection.You can

join their conservation tradition, right in yourown backyard.

There are nearly 2 billion acres of land in theUnited States. About 70 percent of that landis privately owned, and care of that land is inthe hands of those who live and work on it.

Most of that land, 1.4 billion acres, is man-aged by farmers and ranchers. More than 92million acres of land—an area the size ofCalifornia—is privately developed and muchof it is tended by homeowners.

Farmers and ranchers use conservation plansto help them apply practices that meet theirproduction objectives and protect soil, water,air, plant, and animal resources.You may wantto develop a plan for your own backyard tohelp you apply conservation measures that fityour needs. Or maybe, for now, you’d like totry just a few of the activities in this book.

We hope you’ll enjoy these activities thatbring beauty and diversity to your yard—whether your “yard” is measured in acres,feet, or flower pots.We know you’ll feel goodabout improving the environment and joiningthe conservation tradition of America’s farm-ers and ranchers.

From the countrysideto your backyard

A tradition of caring for our natural resources

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(top) Contour stripcropping; (bot-tom right) Northern cardinal,female; (bottom left) Water andplants to attract butterflies; (topleft) Water lily.

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(top) Constructed wetland withlandscaping; (right) Purpleprairie coneflowers; (bottom left)Finished compost; (center left)Atala hairstreak butterfly.

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C O N T E N T S

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Tree plantingPage 6

Wildlife habitatPage 8

Backyard pondPage 14

TerracingPage 22

Water conservationPage 23

Nutrient managementPage 21

In this publication,you’ll see practicesused to conserve and

improve naturalresources on agriculturalland across the country.You’ll see how you canuse similar practices inyour own backyard tohelp improve the envi-ronment, help wildlife,and in many cases, makethe area more attractiveand enjoyable.

Most backyard conserva-tion practices are easy toput in place.Tips andhighlights are given here,but for more information,

or for help in developingyour backyard plan, youmay want to consult alocal landscaper, gardenclub, or any of the organi-zations listed in the backof this book.

What’s in this book

This bookhighlights 10conservationactivities,adaptedfrom farmsand ranches,that can beused in yourbackyard.

PLUS…“Quick Tips”

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Backyard wetlandPage 16

MulchingPage 20

PestmanagementPage 24

CompostingPage 18

Conservation efforts

by many farmers and

ranchers help keep

the air clean; maintain

good-quality water for

drinking, recreation,

and fish and wildlife;

provide homes for

wildlife; ensure

healthy soil; and sus-

tain a diversity of

plants. These benefits

help people, wildlife,

and the environment.

Numerous Federal

and State conserva-

tion programs are

aimed at natural

resource protection

and sustainability.

Many provide educa-

tional, technical, and

financial assistance to

help farmers consider

and implement con-

servation practices.

On the farm

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EVERYBODY

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BACKYARDPage 26

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(top left) Mockingbird eatingchokecherry; (top center)Backyard pond and water-loving plants.

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(right) Contour stripcropping.

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T R E E P L A N T I N G

Trees add beauty and so much more.

In your backyard

Choosing a treeChoose a tree that will pro-

vide enjoyment for youand that fits your landscape.Take advantage of the abun-dant references on

gardening in locallibraries, at universities,arboretums, and parks wheretrees are identified, and fromnative plant and gardeningclubs, and nurseries. Beforeyou buy, you can find out if atree is appropriate for

your area, how big it willget, how long it will live, itsleaf color in the fall, any nutsor fruit it may bear, and theproper planting instructionsand care for that species.Make a conscious effort toselect trees native to

your area. They will livelonger, be more tolerant oflocal weather and soil condi-tions, enhance natural biodi-versity in your neighbor-hood, and be more beneficialto wildlife than non-nativetrees. Avoid exotic trees thatcan invade other areas,crowd out native plants, andharm natural ecosystems.Plant a variety of treespecies. For wildlife, choosetrees and shrubs that bloomand bear fruit or nuts at dif-ferent times of the year.

T rees in your backyard can be home to many different types ofwildlife.Trees also can reduce your heating and cooling costs,help clean the air, add beauty and color, provide shelter from

the wind and the sun, and add value to your home.

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■ Dig a hole twice as wideas, and slightly shallowerthan, the root ball. Roughenthe sides and bottom of thehole with a pick or shovelso that roots can penetratethe soil.■ With a potted tree, gentlyremove the tree from thecontainer. Lay the tree on itsside with the container endnear the planting hole. Hitthe bottom and sides of thecontainer until the root ballis loosened.With treeswrapped in plastic or burlap,remove the string or wirethat holds the wrapping to

the root crown. Remove thewrapping if it is plastic;burlap may be left in place.■ Gently separate circlingroots on the root ball.Shorten exceptionally long roots, and guide theshortened roots downwardand outward. Root tips diequickly when exposed to light and air, so don’twaste time.■ Place the root ball in thehole. Leave the top of theroot ball (where the rootsend and the trunk begins)1/2 to 1 inch above thesurrounding soil, making sure

not to cover it unless rootsare exposed. As you add soilto fill in around the tree,lightly tamp the soil tocollapse air pockets, or addwater to help settle the soil.■ Form a temporary waterbasin around the base of thetree to encourage waterpenetration, and waterthoroughly after planting.A tree with a dry root ballcannot absorb water; if theroot ball is extremely dry,allow water to trickle intothe soil by placing the hoseat the trunk of the tree.■ Mulch around the tree.

Be sure to carefully follow the planting instructions that comewith your tree. If specific instructions are not available, followthese tips:

Planting a treeA properly planted and maintained tree will grow much fasterand live much longer than one that is incorrectly planted. Treescan be planted almost any time of the year as long as the soil isnot frozen. However, early fall is the optimum time toplant trees.The roots grow some during the first fall and winterand when spring arrives the tree is ready to grow. Your secondchoice for planting is late winter or early spring. Hot summerweather is hard on newly planted trees and planting in frozensoil during the winter is difficult and tough on tree roots.

Windbreaks and tree plantings slow the wind and provide shelter and food for wildlife.

Trees can shelter livestock and crops; they are used as barriers to slow winds that

blow across large cropped fields and through farmsteads. An established windbreak

slows wind on its downwind side for a distance of 10 times the height of the trees.

Farmstead and field windbreaks and tree plantings are key components of a conserva-

tion system. They also improve air quality by capturing dust. Planting a mix of tree

species helps prevent total losses to disease and severe weather; it also provides

food, nesting areas, and cover for a variety of wildlife.

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On the farm

Early maintenanceFor the first year or two,espe-cially after a week or so ofespecially hot or dry weather,watch your trees

closely for signs of

moisture stress. If yousee leaf wilting or hard, cakedsoil,water the trees

well and slowly enough sothe water soaks in rather thanruns off. This will encour-

age deep root growth.Keep the area under the treesmulched and free of otherplants.Until the trees aredeeply rooted,grasses andother plants may take upmoisture before the trees canget their share.

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(top) Farmstead windbreak;(bottom left) A restful, soothingplace among the trees; (topleft) Enjoying the backyard.

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(top left) Chipping sparrownest; (top right) Twine will beremoved before planting;(bottom left) Field windbreak.Ly

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Trees, shrubs, andother plants canprovide homes andfood for wildlife.

Attracting birds toyour yardThese are examples ofplants that you can grow toattract birds and otherspecies. Be sure to checkwith your nursery on whatgrows best in your area.

Shrubs for birds

Common juniperHighbush blueberryHolliesPyracanthaRed-osier dogwoodServiceberry

SpicebushSumacsViburnumsWax myrtle

Trees for birds andother wildlife

American beechAmerican hollyAppleBalsam firBlack cherryBlack gumCottonwoodCrabappleFlowering dogwoodHawthornsHickoriesLive oakOaksRed mullberry

Vines for birds

American bittersweetNative honeysuckleStrawberryTrumpet creeperVirginia creeperWild grape

Y our backyard can be home for many different typesof birds, butterflies, beneficial insects, bats, and otherwildlife.Trees, shrubs, and other plants provide both

food and shelter for wildlife.The types of plants you use forfood and cover will help determine the wildlife speciesattracted to your backyard. Consider native plant

species first. Plant a variety of species. Select plants

that flower and bear fruit at different times of

the year. Shrubs that produce berries can provide foodthroughout the year. Trees with nuts and fruit can alsoprovide seasonal foods. Flowers and fruits of some plantsattract hummingbirds and butterflies to your backyard.Youalso can construct bird houses and other shelter and putout commercial bird foods.

In your backyard

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Flowers for birds

AsterConeflowerCoreopsisSunflower

Nectar plants for hummingbirds

Hummingbirds are typicallyattracted to red and yellowtubular flowers, althoughthey frequently visit othersas well.Bee balmColumbine DelphiniumFuchsiaHoneysuckleJewel weedLobeliaPenstemonPhloxSalviaTrumpet creeper

Additional food andshelter for birds

You can provide additionalfood and shelter for birdsand other wildlife by build-ing or purchasing feedersand houses and by settingout certain foods.Watchingbirds feeding can be anenjoyable pastime. Find outwhich birds spend the

winter in or migrate

through your area, andprovide food for them.Check to see which birds

are most common andwhich are rare or in specialneed of food and shelter.Many species of birds can beattracted by a variety of

feed in different styles offeeders. Be sure to put feed-ers out of reach of

predators.

Common food for birds

Hummingbird:Sugar water (1 part sugar to4 parts water) in a feeder.Every 3-4 days, wash feederwith soap and water, rinsethoroughly, and add newsugar water.Oriole:Citrus fruit on a nail Titmouse, nuthatch, chick-adee, and many others:Black oil sunflower seedsGoldfinch, pine siskin:Thistle seedWoodpecker, wren:Plain suet in a suet feeder

NOTE: Use of feeders couldattract some wildlife speciesthat you may not want tofeed, such as starlings, crows,and squirrels.Type andplacement of feeders and thetype of food can help deterunwanted species.

Bird houses

Choose a location that birds will find appealing

and secure, usually away from the bustle of humanactivity. Make or buy a bird house specifically

designed for the species of bird you want to attract.Thesize of the hole is most critical to prevent the eggs and youngfrom being destroyed by larger birds; always check a list ofappropriate hole sizes.

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(top) Northerncardinal, male;(bottom right)Supplemental foodfor birds;(bottom left)Interspersed nativeplants.

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(top right) Anna’shummingbird;(bottom right)Eastern bluebird,male, at nest box.R

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W I L D L I F E H A B I T A T

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Dead, dying, and hollow trees and logsMany people are not aware of the value of dead, dying, and hollow trees, as well as logson the ground, for wildlife. Dead trees provide homes to over 400 species of birds,mammals, and amphibians. Fish, plants, and fungi also benefit from dead and dying

trees. Consider leaving standing dead and dying trees in your yard unless they pose a humansafety or property hazard, and use downed woody materials in gardens and landscaping.

Attracting butterflies to your yardColorful butterflies add beauty and interest to your backyard.There are hundreds of differentspecies of butterflies in North America. Butterflies require food in liquid form, such as nectarproduced by plants.They get some of it from flowers and from juices of extra-ripe fruits.Thetypes of flowering plants you grow will determine the kinds of butterflies you will attractto your backyard. Observe species nearby, and use plants that attract them. Provide nectar-

rich flowers for adult butterflies and foliage for caterpillars. Do not use insecticides nearplants for butterflies.

Nectar plants for butterflies

AsterAzaleaButterfly bushButterfly weed and

other milkweedsConeflowerLantanaLupineMilkweedPhloxZinnia

Plants for caterpillars

Caterpillars, the larval stageof butterflies, need nourish-ment as well. Native

plants are the choice ofmany species. Plants forcaterpillars include:AspenBirchButterfly weed and

other milkweedsDillHollyhockSennaSorrelSpicebrushWillow

Attracting bees toyour yard

In the United States, thereare nearly 5,000 differentspecies of native bees—almost all of them solitary,

friendly bees that nest inholes in the ground or bur-rows in twigs and dead treelimbs.These bees don’t havehives to protect so they arenot aggressive and rarelysting. Bumblebees, carpenterbees, sweat bees, leafcutterbees, digger bees, and otherspollinate many differ-

ent kinds of plants, andplay a critical role in healthywild plant communities andgardens. Some 30 percent ofour diet is the direct resultof a pollinating visit by abee to a flowering fruit tree

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Some corporate lands

are set aside and

managed just for wildlife

habitat. The Wildlife

Habitat Council has

implemented wildlife

enhancement programs

on more than 550,000

acres in the United States

and eight other countries.

Habitat projects on

corporate lands are

corporate-driven

cooperative

efforts among

management,

employees, the

community, local

conservation

groups, and

local, State, and

Federal

agencies.

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or vegetable plant. Providingbee habitat in your yard canincrease the quality andquantity of your fruit andvegetable harvests.

Nectar plants for bees

Bees are attracted to mostflowering plants, and areespecially fond of blue andyellow flowers.Try plantingyour garden so you havedifferent species

blooming in the spring,

summer, and fall. Plantsfor bees include:Bee balmBlack-eyed SusanCardinal flowerClover and other legumesCosmosCrape myrtleGoldenrodsLupineMallowsMilkweedsMintsSunflowers

Bee houses

A good use forscrap lumber (atleast 3-5 inches

thick) is to drill holes (from

1/8-inch to 5/16-inch in diam-eter) about 90 percent of theway into the thick woodenblock. Space the holes about1/2-inch to 3/4-inch apart.The 5/16-inch holes workbest as homes for orchardbees, which are excellent pol-linators of fruit trees. Hangyour bee blocks under the

eaves of your house or gar-den shed, protected fromdirect sun and rain.

Attracting bats toyour yardBats can be beneficial andinteresting mammalianspecies in yourneighborhood. Bats areamong the most importantconsumers of night-flying

insects, includingmosquitoes, moths, andbeetles. For example, a

On corporate lands

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(top) Monarch butterfly onconeflower; (bottom right)Digger bee; (left) Giantswallowtail after emergingfrom chrysalis.

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(top right) Canada goose;(bottom) Egret over wetland;(left) Pallid bat with insect.

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single little brown bat cancatch more than 600

mosquitoes in an hour.Watching bats fly aroundlight posts catching bugscan be an interestingnighttime activity.

To help attract bats and pro-vide them with much-need-ed roosting habitat, you maywant to consider putting abat house in your yard.Thehouses should be placed onpoles or buildings at

least 15 feet high in aspot that receives 6 or morehours of sun per day. Treetrunks are usually too shady

for bat boxes. Some species,such as red bats and hoarybats, will use foliage ofshrubs and trees, while oth-ers, such as evening andIndiana bats, will roost underloose bark or in cavities.

As with all wildlife, batsshould be watched but

not handled or chased.Bats are generally shy ofhumans, and rarely “attack”or fly after a person, but ifcaught or picked up fromthe ground, a bat may bitein self-defense. Bats shouldnot be handled.

Water for wildlife

Clean, fresh water is as important to birds, bats, and otherwildlife as it is for people.Water in a saucer, bird bath,

or backyard pond gives wildlife the water they need.Remember to change the water every few days to keep it

fresh. In hot weather, it may be necessary to refill the con-tainer every day.

Logs, rocks, and other in-water structures provide drinkingand basking habitat for turtles, butterflies, and songbirds.Stones with depressions that collect water will help attractbutterflies.

HintButterflies, birds, bees, and all wildlife are very vulnerable tomany pesticides and other chemicals. Probably the best singlething a gardener can do for wildlife is to minimize chemi-

cal use. If you use chemicals, always follow label

instructions.

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Farmers are installing grass,

tree, and shrub plantings, ponds,

and other wildlife habitat at

record rates. Buffer strips along

waterways, grass areas, and

native prairie plantings are some

of the practices used on farms.

Nesting structures such as bird

and bat houses are sometimes

provided for wildlife. Some farm-

ers plant or leave food plots of

corn, millet, or other grains

specifically for wildlife.

Pheasants, grouse, quail, prairie

chickens, mourning doves, and

songbirds, as well as leopard

frogs, diamond-back terrapin,

red bats, and other wildlife,

benefit from habitat that farmers

and ranchers establish on their

land. Farmers appreciate and

enjoy wildlife supported by good

habitat and also benefit from

pollination and pest control by

beneficial insects.

On the farm

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(top) Backyard pond with lily pads and frogs;(bottom) Cleaning birdbath; (left) Thistle feederwith pine siskin and American goldfinches.

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(top right) Rose-breasted grosbeak, male;(bottom right) Streamside buffer of trees andother plants; (bottom left) Red-eared andpainted turtles; (top left) Eastern bluebirds.

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B A C K Y A R D P O N D

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A backyard pond will likelybecome the focal point for allyour backyard conservation.

Where to put a backyard pondConsider locating your backyard pond in view of a deck orpatio where everyone can enjoy it. Have it blend in with its nat-ural surroundings. Plan to landscape around the pond

to provide habitat for frogs and birds that need land and water.Be sure electrical service is available for a pump, filter system tokeep water fresh, or for lighting.There will be less maintenanceand cleanup and most aquatic plants will grow better if yourpond is not under trees.

When to install a backyard pondYou can put in a backyard pond any time the ground isn’tfrozen or overly wet. Plan on taking at least a weekend to installand landscape.

Backyard pond suppliesMost sites will require lining with an impervious material tohold a constant water level. A flexible liner made of sheetsof strong plastic is generally the easiest way to line your pond.Flexible liners may make it easier for the pond to fit into thenatural surroundings of your yard. Pre-formed rigid liners alsoare available, but generally are more expensive and moredifficult to install. A wooden half barrel with a liner makes anice small, above-ground pond.You’ll also need a pump and

filter to maintain clean water and healthy fish.You can addplants, landscaping, heaters, or special effects like fountains andwaterfalls.

Size and depthCommon regrets of backyard pond owners are that the pondwas too small or too shallow. Minimum depth for fish is 18inches; a deep end of 2 or 3 feet is recommended. Size andshape of ponds with rigid liners are dictated by the liners.Apond with a flexible liner may be any shape or size.

Establishing plantsFree-floating plants, such as duckweed, are an integralpart of keeping the water in your pond clear. Use native plantsthat are recommended for your area.

In your backyard

Backyard ponds are for birds, butterflies, frogs, fish, andyou and your family. These ponds are typically small,sometimes no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter.

Water is very effective in drawing wildlife to your back-yard. It is also a natural, relaxing, and scenic addition that canprovide interest and enjoyment.

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Also use submerged pots of water lilies,iris, spikerush, arrow-arum, duck potato,marsh marigold, and other native wetlandplants.Natives are hardy, and typicallysurvive over winter in the backyard pond,unlike most non-native, tropical species.

Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of thewater surface. Set the plants 1 to 2 inchesunder water; the pots may need to be sup-ported by submerged rocks or bricks. If youare using native plants, there is usually noneed to fertilize them. For some exoticwater lilies, limited fertilizing—once yearly—may be required. Check with your nurseryon care of plants and how deep to placepotted plants. Be aware that overfertilizing

may cause unwanted algae blooms whichcan rob the water of oxygen.

Add fish and scavengersConsider stocking your backyard pond withfish.They are fun to watch, and help keepthe pond free of unwanted insects.You’llalso need scavengers, such as aquatic snailsand tadpoles, to help control algae. In coldclimates, a heater may be necessary for fishto survive the winter. Be aware that heaterscan use large amounts of electricity.

HintFill a small area with sand or gravel to cre-ate a shallow area where bees and butter-flies can drink.

SafetyLocate the backyard pond where it is unlike-ly that unattended children may be attractedto it. Check local safety ordinances to deter-mine if a fence is required for the specificdepth and size of your pond. Check localbuilding ordinances for depth and safetyrestrictions and permits. Equip outdoor out-lets with a ground-fault circuit interrupter.

More helpYour local nursery, landscaper, or other sup-plier can give you more information on thestep-by-step process of building a backyardpond, selecting and establishing suitableplants in and around it, and landscaping.

A properly located

and maintained farm

pond can help stop

gully erosion and

improve water quality.

Ponds provide water

for livestock,

waterfowl, and fish;

store water for

emergencies; and

add beauty to the

landscape.

Wildlife use ponds for

water and habitat. As

one Iowa farmer says

about his pond, “I

was always taught

that one generation

does for the next,

and we thought

leaving the land and

water in better

condition would be

something good to

leave to our children

and grandchildren.”

On the farm

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Recirculating water in backyardpond.

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(top) Landscaped backyard pond;(right) Fishing in farm pond; (left)Your “pond” may be as simple as abirdbath.

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B A C K Y A R D W E T L A N D

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Wetlands filter excess nutrients,chemicals, and sediment, andprovide habitat for a host ofinteresting creatures.

Many yards can support a backyard wetland thatbenefits you and your community. Letting runofffrom your roof, parking area, and lot slowly filter

through a mini-wetland helps prevent pollution of neighbor-ing creeks and may help prevent flooding.

In your backyard

Where to put a wetlandLow areas that remain wet or damp much of the year are theeasiest places to establish wetlands. Any depression that

collects rainwater or runoff from downspouts, or servesas the path of drainwater leaving your yard, is an excellentspot to plant wetland plants.You’ll create a backyardwetland area that will be very low maintenance. Therewill be no more “bogged down” lawn mowers because nomowing will be needed! The area will attract wildlife and filterthe water draining off your property. If you do not have anappropriate natural site, you can create a wetland the sameway you would a backyard pond. Do not put excess fertilizeror pesticides on your lawn or other areas feeding your wetland.

How to build a wetlandPartially blocking an existing drainage way or digging a shal-low basin may be all you need to do if you have clay soil thatnaturally holds water. In better drained soil or where you wantyour wetland to stay wet most of the time, you can dig a shal-low depression and bury a plastic liner as you would to createa backyard pond. How long the area stays flooded or wet dur-ing the growing season is key to the types of plants to use. Ifrunoff will not naturally keep the area wet enough, you willneed to have a supply of water available for occasional use.

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Important! Because of the variety of potential conditionsthat you can create, and the potential side-effects of blockingdrainage ways, you should always consult an expert beforestarting a wetland project.

What to plantA wide variety of attractive plants can grow in wet areas.Cattails and many varieties of reeds thrive in the open sunand are easy to care for. Many species are not harmed by longdry periods during the summer. Cardinal flowers, sweet flag,and pickerel weed thrive in wet areas. Trees and shrubs likeblack gum, water oak, red-osier dogwood, button bush, andsweet pepper bush add texture, color, and beauty toany landscape, and are adapted to poorly drained soil. A vari-ety of attractive ferns, skunk cabbage, and Jack-in-the-pulpit

grow well in wooded wetlands that are damp and shaded. Ifyou create bog conditions of permanently damp organic soil,you can grow native orchids,Venus flytrap, and sundew.

Wildlife in your wetlandMany birds and small animals will quickly start using yourwetland. Usually frogs, toads, salamanders, and aquatic insectswill find your wetland during the first spring. A deep, perma-nent pool in the wetland can support native frogs, toads, andpossibly fish that will eat mosquito larva and other insects.Most frogs and toads need spring pools in which to breed;their tadpoles need shallow water for several weeks whilethey mature.Wetlands that dry out in the summer can sup-port a variety of plants and wildlife and will not producemosquitoes.

Wetlands filter excess nutrients, chemicals, and sediment from runoff,

keep ground water pure, hold back flood waters, provide habitat for

migratory birds and local wildlife, and add beauty to the landscape.

Across the country, many farmers are restoring wet areas in cropland

and pasture to fully functioning wetlands that benefit their land and

the environment.

On the farm

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Wetland plants in low areabetween buildings.

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(top) Colorful mix of wetlandplants; (right) Goldfinch onconeflower;(bottom) Restored prairiepothole wetland.

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A ll organic matter eventually decomposes.Composting speeds the process by providing anideal environment for bacteria and other decompos-

ing micro-organisms. The final product, humus or compost,looks and feels like fertile garden soil. This dark,crumbly, earthy-smelling stuff works wonders on all kinds ofsoil and provides vital nutrients to help plants grow and lookbetter.

Decomposing micro-organisms need four key elements tothrive: nitrogen, carbon, moisture, and oxygen. For best results,mix materials high in nitrogen (such as clover and freshgrass clippings) and those high in carbon (such as driedleaves and twigs). If there is not a good supply of nitrogen-richmaterial, a handful of general lawn fertilizer will help the nitro-gen-carbon ratio. Moisture is provided by rain, but you mayneed to water or cover the pile to keep it damp. Becareful not to saturate the pile. Oxygen is supplied by turning

or mixing the pile. More turning yields faster decomposition.

Composting turnshousehold wastes intovaluable fertilizer.

In your backyard

Getting startedMany materials can be added to a compost pile, includingleaves, grass clippings, straw, woody brush, vegetable and fruitscraps, coffee grounds, livestock manure, sawdust, and shreddedpaper. Avoid using diseased plants, meat scraps that may attractanimals, and dog or cat manure which can carry disease.

Composting can be as simple or as involved as you wouldlike, and depends on how much yard waste you have, howfast you want results, and the effort you’re willing to invest.

Cold composting With cold composting, you can just pile grass clip-pings and dry leaves on the ground or in a bin.Thismethod requires no maintenance, but you’ll have to

wait several months to a year for the pile to decompose. Coldcomposting works well if you’re short on time or have littleyard waste. Keep weeds and diseased plants out of the mix.Add yard waste as it accumulates.

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On the farm

Like composting, waste

management on the farm turns

a potential waste into a

resource that saves money and

helps the environment.

Producers use livestock manure

to fertilize crops. When manure

is properly handled, it can be

safely applied to the land

without the risk of polluting

water.

Composting is also practiced in

some poultry operations. The

compost is used as fertilizer on

the farms and for lawns and

gardens.

Hot compostingHot composting requires more work, but with a few minutesa day and the right ingredients you can have finished compostin a few weeks. Hot piles must be built all at once in a 4- to 5-foot cube and turned regularly. As decompositionoccurs, the pile will shrink. A 3-foot cube is needed to main-tain necessary heat. Hot piles can reach 110 to 160 degreesFarenheit, killing most weed seeds and plant diseases.

■ On a level site, lay down bricks or prunings to promote aircirculation.

■ Spread several inches of the high-carbon material, then mixhigh-carbon and high-nitrogen material together. Waterperiodically.

■ Punch holes in the sides of the pile for aeration.■ The pile will heat up and then begin to cool. Start turning

when the pile’s temperature begins to drop.

Move materials from the center to the outside and vice versa.Turn every day or two and you should get compost in lessthan 4 weeks.Turning every other week will give compost in1 to 3 months. Finished compost will smell sweet and be cooland crumbly to the touch.

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Nutrient-rich compost

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(top) American cranberrybush Viburnum; (top right)Compost bin made of fencing wire; (bottom right)Wooden compost bins; (bottom) Manure storagetank.R

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Christi Carter from Grant Heilman

Christi Carter from Grant Heilman

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M U L C H I N G

20

Mulching cools, protects,and enrichesthe soil.

Leaving the previous

year’s crop stubble

on the soil surface is

called conservation

tillage. This practice

helps keep wind

from blowing soil particles and helps stop rain from

washing soil away. Also, research is showing that

leaving crop residues helps hold carbon in the soil

and aids in reducing greenhouse gases. This

practice is often used in combination with other

conservation measures such as wind strips or

contour farming.

On the farm

Mulching involves placing a layer of organic materi-al around plants.As mulch decomposes, it addsorganic matter to the soil.This provides important

nutrients for plants and an ideal environment for earthwormsand other organisms that help enrich the soil.

Mulching can recycle yard wastes and improve your soil.Mulch protects soil from erosion, prevents weedgrowth, conserves soil moisture, stabilizes soil temperature,reduces compaction, and keeps clean and dry any fruit or vegetable that touches the ground.

Mulch materialsThe best place to look for mulch materials is in your ownyard. Grass clippings and leaves work well formulching if they are dry and weed free. Avoid adding clip-pings to your vegetable garden from lawns that have beentreated with weed killer within the last two mowings. If youlive near farming areas, you may be able to get old hay from afarmer or feed store.

Compost makes an excellent organic mulch material. It addsnutrients to the soil and has a natural appearance.Wood chipsand bark work well around trees and shrubs and make attrac-tive walkways through gardens.

Applying mulchApply mulch when plants are established and soil

is warm. First, water your garden well.Then place a layer ofmulch around the plants.Thickness of the mulch layer variesfor each material:

Dry grass clippings 2 inchesShredded hardwood mulch,straw, or wood chips 2 to 4 inchesCompost 3 to 4 inchesDry leaves 6 inches

You will help insulate the root zone and lower evaporationrates if you liberally apply mulch. Be careful not to smotherthe plants. As the mulch breaks down, add more material tothe top throughout the growing season. After harvest, work

the mulch into the soil to integrate the organic matter, orleave it on the surface to decay naturally and be carriedinto the soil by earthworms.

In your backyard

6

June Davidek, USDA

Gene Alexander, USDA

On the farmAgricultural producers

sample soils for nutri-

ent needs. As tech-

nology becomes

available and afford-

able, more producers

are varying fertilizer

rates within each

field, depending on

soil test results. This

precision farming

method places the

correct amount of

fertilizer where it is

needed. Applying only

those nutrients plants

can use improves the

farm economically

and environmentally.

N U T R I E N T M A N A G E M E N T

21

Apply only thosenutrients theplants can use.

Nutrients are essential for good plant growth, butoverapplying nutrients is not good for plants or forthe environment. Excess nutrients leach through

the soil and end up in ground water, or run off into stormsewers and end up choking a lake or stream.

The three primary plant nutrients are nitrogen,phosphorus, and potassium. Generally, nitrogenpromotes top growth, phosphorus helpsdevelop stronger roots and more flower andfruit production, and potassium builds durabilityand disease resistance.

Remember to consider native plants or others with lowfertilizer needs.

Soil test is keyThe key to good nutrient management on the farm and in yourbackyard is a reliable soil test.Without a soil test, you could beapplying too much, too little, or the wrong nutrients.You’ll wanta separate soil test for your lawn and for your garden.

Commercial soil test kits are available at nurseries and lawn andgarden suppliers. Ask for information on how to take your soilsamples. Apply only the nutrients needed according tothe soil test, and at the right time. Never exceed the recom-mended rate.

Fertilizing lawns■ Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizers.■ Mow often, and leave grass clippings on the lawn for fertilizer.■ Be careful not to spread fertilizer on sidewalks and driveways.■ Be sure to calibrate your spreader correctly.

Fertilizing gardens■ Use compost to enhance or replace fertilizers.■ Choose a level site, or terrace the garden, to avoid runoff

and erosion.■ Place fertilizer near plants rather than broadcast it over the

entire garden.■ Add organic matter to the soil by using manures and organic

fertilizers at a conservative rate.

In your backyard

7

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(top) Applying shreddedmulch; (bottom) Soybeansgrowing through cornresidue.

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(top right) Using soil testkit in yard; (bottom)Testing soil on the farm;(top left) Curbside runoffdrains to lake.

Lynn Betts, USDA

Amy Janssen Smith, USDA

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T E R R A C I N G

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Terracingmakes flowerand vegetablegardeningpossible onsteep slopes.

T erraces can break your backyard into several mini-gardens. On steep slopes, terracing can make plantinga garden feasible. Terraces prevent erosion by

shortening the long slope into a series of shorter, more levelsteps.This allows heavy rains to soak in rather than run

off and cause soil erosion.

Materials for terracesBuilding terraces is like building a staircase.The material youuse to make the face of the stair may be treated lumber—suchas railroad ties, poles, or posts—or bricks, rocks, concreteblocks, or similar materials.

Height of wallsThe steepness of the slope often dictates wall height. Makethe terraces in your yard high enough so the land areabetween them is fairly level. Be sure the terrace material isstrong enough and anchored well enough to stay inplace through freezing and thawing, rainstorms, and so forth.Large projects, such as retaining walls, may require a profes-sional design and specialized assistance and equipment. Besure to check local building codes regarding the instal-lation of high walls, and work safely.

Erosion control is a considerationHeavy rains can cause erosion between terraces, and createsmall gullies if water concentrates as it goes over a terrace. Tohelp prevent erosion, add mulch or other good

ground cover on land between terraces.

In your backyard

Terraces catch runoff

water, let the water

soak into the ground,

and deliver the excess

safely to the bottom of

a hillside—much like

eavespouts on a

house. The earthen

ridges built around a

hillside on the contour

cut a long slope into

shorter slopes,

preventing water from

building to a highly

erosive force.

Some terraces are

seeded to grass, which

provides erosion

control and a nesting

area for birds. Terraces

are often used in

combination with other

conservation practices

to provide more

complete soil

protection.

On the farm

8

Ron Nichols, USDA

Gene Alexander, USDA

W A T E R C O N S E R V A T I O N

23

If you rely on watering to make your lawn grow and yourgarden productive, consider a more efficient system.There are several ways to improve the use of water.

Use water againWhen it rains, if no water recycling system has been planned,the water that runs off your house keeps on going to thestorm sewer. By saving that water, and reusing it on your gar-den or lawn later, you save energy and water.

A simple recycling system directs water from eavespouts to astorage barrel.You fill a bucket with water from the storagebarrel and carry the water to your garden.This is a simple andeffective system. However, you may want a more elaboratemethod of capturing and distributing rain water.

Watering to save energyWhenever practical, water in the early morning.In arid climates, it’s okay to water in the evenings andat night.You’ll lose less water to evaporation than if

you watered in the middle of the day, and the plants are lessstressed and can take up the water more efficiently.

Mulch or fiber cloth preserves soil moisture.You can find sup-plies and information at a nursery or hardware store.

Consider planting native species.They usually use little or nowater beyond normal rainfall.

Drip irrigation benefitsA drip irrigation system will provide water directly to theplant.You can control the flow to each plant.

Drip irrigationand other waterconservationpractices cansave water andmoney.

In your backyard

On the farm

Drip irrigation ranges from inexpensive soaker hoses toelaborate computerized systems.There may be an up-frontinvestment, but you’ll use less water and have

better water distribution.

Garden or hardware stores will have the supplies you need.You may even want to engineer your own system from a gar-den hose. Be sure not to overapply fertilizer when using adrip system.

Drip irrigation,

commonly used on

fruits and vegetables,

minimizes the amount

of water that

evaporates, and it

maximizes the amount

that is used by plants.

By placing the water

directly on the plant, or

next to it, less water

evaporates and less is

wasted on bare soil.

High-efficiency irrigation

systems for row crops

use less energy to

pump water and, since

they spray water

downward, less water

evaporates before it

reaches the crop.

Farmers implement

other water

management practices

to reduce the amount

of water used to

produce a crop.

9

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(top) Terraced flowerbeds; (bottom) Farming grassedterraces on the contour.

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(top) Drip irrigation in vegetable garden; (bottom) Efficientdrip irrigation on the farm.

Ron Nichols, USDA

Ron Nichols, USDA

P E S T M A N A G E M E N T

24

Early detection andtreatment of pestsmeans a healthiergrowing environment.

Preventing pests■ Plant disease and pest-resistant species.■ Select a variety of hardy plant species and space them

properly.■ Select plants that bloom and bear fruit at different times of

the year.■ Plant flowers, herbs, and vegetables together and change

the location of annuals every year to prevent buildup ofcertain pests.

■ Clean up plant litter and remove weeds before they go to seed.■ Add bird and bat houses to the garden.■ Provide habitat for beneficial insects that prey on pests.■ Water and add nutrients properly to increase plant vigor.

Physical pest control■ Remove insects by hand.■ Wash pests away using a spray nozzle.■ Set traps.■ Make physical barriers around plants, such as a wire

mesh fence partially sunk into the ground for rabbits,aluminum foil wrapped around vegetable plants forcutworms, and solid barriers to prevent weeds frominvading flower beds or vegetable gardens.

Beneficial insectsHaving the right insects in your garden or backyard can keeppests and weeds in check. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs,assassin bugs, and praying mantises, prey on insects that canharm your plants. The following insects can help control pestsin your backyard:

■ Ladybugs and lacewing larvae for controlling aphids and awide variety of other insects.

■ Preying mantises for controlling many insects.

Good planning canput you a step

ahead ofunwanted insects, weeds, anddiseases. Healthy, vigorousplants minimize pest damage.

Regular monitoring ofyour lawn or garden is the

best way to stay on top ofpotential plant health andpest problems. If you seeminimal damage, it is ofteneasiest to just tolerate it andcontinue monitoring. If pestsbegin to cause seriousdamage, there are a numberof treatment methods.

In your backyard

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■ Seedhead weevils and other beetles for controlling weeds.■ Predatory mites for controlling pest mites, thrips, and

many others.■ Ground beetles feed primarily on caterpillars that attack

trees and shrubs.

Chemical controlsIf the methods listed above fail to solve your pest problem,use chemicals of low toxicity and rapid decomposi-

tion. Always read the label, follow directions, wear pro-tective clothing, and spot-spray. Some of these chemicals are:■ Pesticidal soaps for aphids, scale crawlers, whiteflies,

and thrips.■ Insecticidal dusts for aphids, beetles, fleas, ticks, ants,

and crickets.■ Horticultural oils for aphids, mites, leafhoppers, mealybugs,

scales, plant lice, and mosquito larvae.■ Botanicals for leafminers, fleas, and ticks.

Proper pest management on the farm involves a variety

of practices, like rotating crops to reduce disease and

insect problems, and establishing tall grass hedges to

provide habitat for beneficial insects. Most farmers now

monitor their fields regularly, a practice called “scouting,”

to keep track of insect and weed populations. Only when

populations reach a level where an unacceptable amount

of damage is likely are direct control measures initiated.

When pesticides

are necessary,

farmers fill and

clean tanks

away from

water sources,

mix only necessary amounts, and apply only to land

where problems exist.

Before you apply pesticides, make sure that they will not harmbeneficial insects or be hazardous to humans, pets, or wildlife.

Living in harmony with wildlifeIn some instances, practices described in this book couldattract unwanted wildlife, or more of a species than is desir-able. If you have problems with any wildlife species, mostnurseries or garden stores, and organizations listed in the“Where To Get Additional Assistance” section at the back ofthis book can provide information on preventing or control-ling them.The government agencies listed can provide infor-mation on Federal and State regulations regarding protectionof wildlife species. Equipped with the right information andtools, most people are able to solve their own problems andlive in harmony with wildlife.

On the farm

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(top)Bluebird at nest box;(bottom)Spot sprayingdandelion;(top left)Seven-spotted lady beetle.

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Scouting a farm field.R

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E ven if you don’t have a backyard of your own, thereare many opportunities to use the practices in thisbook to contribute to a healthy environment.

Backyard ponds, wetlands, native grass plantings, and plantsthat attract wildlife can improve school grounds, areas aroundapartments and businesses, community gardens, parks, andother community areas.

Consider starting a backyard conservation project in yourcommunity. Any vacant lot or unused space is a candidate forimprovement with natural plantings. A community garden canbe a source of pride as well as a source of food. A garden alsocan be a hands-on teaching center for natural resource conser-vation concepts.

Businesses often sponsor community improvement projects incooperation with schools and civic organizations, which con-tribute labor.

E V E R Y B O D Y H A S A B A C K Y A R D

26

Backyard practicescan be used inshared spaces andpublic places, too.

In your school or community

26

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Ways to promote backyard conservation in your neighborhood■ Encourage public officials to practice backyard conservation on parks and other public

property.■ Plan projects in cooperation with neighboring property owners.■ Encourage community involvement.■ Encourage your building owner to use backyard conservation practices on the grounds

around the building.■ Encourage school classes and other organizations to become involved in planning and

caring for the areas.

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(top) Restored community wetland;(center) Scrub jay drinking from birdbath;(bottom) Urban community garden.

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(top left) Planting to enhance communityareas; (top center) Robins; (top right) Mulchof grass clippings on vegetable garden;(bottom right) Native plants add interest topond; (bottom left) Fun and learning inschool garden.

Col

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Bob

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Bob

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, US

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Audubon and Audubon habitats

For chapter information regarding habitatprojects, call: 212-979-3117, or write:

■ National Audubon SocietyAudubon Habitats555 Audubon PlaceSacramento, CA 95825http://www.audubon.org

Backyard conservationpractices

■ Bat Conservation InternationalP.O. Box 162603Austin,TX 78716-2603512-327-9721Fax: 512-327-9724http://www.batcon.org

■ Wildlife Habitat Council1010 Wayne Avenue, Suite 920Silver Spring, MD 20910301-588-8994Fax: 301-588-4629E-mail: whc@wildlifehc.orghttp://www.wildlifehc.org

■ Your local USDA Service Center (listed inyour phone book under U.S. government,Department of Agriculture)

■ USDA Natural Resources ConservationServiceConservation Communications Staff,Room 6105-S1400 Independence Avenue, SWWashington, DC 20250202-720-3210http://www.nrcs.usda.gov

■ USDA Farm Service AgencyPublic Affairs Staff, Stop 05061400 Independence Ave, SWWashington, D.C. 20250-0506202-720-5237http://www.fsa.usda.gov

Backyard Wildlife Habitat

■ National Wildlife Federation BackyardWildlife Habitat Program8925 Leesburg PikeVienna,VA 22184-0001703-790-4434http://www.nwf.org/habitats

Developing and managingwildlife habitats and controllingunwanted wildlife

■ Your State fish and wildlife agency (listedin your phone book under Stategovernment)

■ International Association of Fish andWildlife Agencies444 North Capitol Street,NW,Suite 544Washington, DC 20001202-624-7890Fax: 202-624-7891E-mail: iafwa@sso.org

■ The Wildlife Services office nearest you(listed in your phone book under U. S.government)

■ USDA Animal and Plant Health InspectionServiceWildlife Services301-734-7921http://www.aphis.usda.gov

Horticulture, wildlife, urbanforestry

■ Your local extension office (listed in yourphone book under local government)

■ A land-grant university

■ Cooperative State Research, Education andExtension ServiceU. S. Department of AgricultureWashington, DC 20250-0900202-720-3029Fax: 202-690-0289E-mail: csrees@reeusda.govhttp://www.reeusda.gov

Locally-led conservationinitiatives

■ Your local conservation district (listed inyour phone book under countygovernment)

■ National Association of ConservationDistrictsP.O. Box 855League City,TX 77574-08551-800-825-5547http://www.nacdnet.org

Pollinator gardens, beegardens

■ Forgotten Pollinators CampaignArizona-Sonora Desert Museum2021 N. Kinney RoadTucson, AZ 85743E-mail: fpollen@azstarnet.comhttp://www.Desert.Net/museum/fp/

Restoring and protectingwildlife habitat

■ Your local U.S. Fish and Wildlife Serviceoffice (listed in your phone book underU.S. government, Department of theInterior)

■ U.S. Fish and Wildlife ServiceDivision of Habitat Conservation4401 N. Fairfax Drive, Room 400Arlington,VA 11103703-358-2201http://www.fws.gov/index.html

Watershed, oceans, andwetlands protection

■ U.S. Environmental Protection AgencyOffice of Wetlands, Oceans andWatershedsMail Code 4501FWashington, DC 20460Wetlands Hotline: 1-800-832-7828Safe Drinking Water Hotline:1-800-426-4791http://www.epa/gov/OWOW/

Other sources of information

■ Local garden centers■ Landscapers■ Garden clubs■ Native plant societies

WHERE TO GET ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE

Additional information on Backyard Conservation is available onthe Web at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov. For more information on thefollowing topics, please contact the organizations listed below:

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibitsdiscrimination in all its programs and activities on thebasis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion,age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, andmarital or family status. (Not all prohibited basesapply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities whorequire alternative means for communication of pro-gram information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.)should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at 202-720-2600 (voice and TDD).

To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA,Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326W,WhittenBuilding, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW,Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call (202) 720-5964(voice or TDD). USDA is an equal opportunityprovider and employer.

FEBRUARY 1998Program Aid 1621

FRONT COVER (top) Contour stripcropping,Tim McCabe, USDA; (center)Mockingbird eating chokecherry,Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery.