£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 1

BANGKOK GUIDE

The Main Attractions

The Grand Palace

ADMISSION FEES: Ticket costs 350 ฿ each and consists of 3 main parts :

1) The brown-yellow part is for the Grand Palace and is valid only on the day of purchase. (A guide

book will be given to each visitor at the entrance to the temple.)

2) The white part is for the Vimanmek Mansion Museum. This part of the ticket is valid for 7 days

from the day of purchase.

3) The pink ticket is for The Royal Thai Decoration and Coin Pavilion, which is on the right hand

side before the entrance to the temple

Rama I, on ascending the throne,

moved the centre of administration

from Thonburi on the west side of

the river to this side of the Chao

Phraya; and built the Grand Palace

serve as residence and offices--the

various ministries, one of which

still remains in the palace walls.

The Wat Phra Kaew (The Chapel

Royal of The Emerald Buddha)

regarded as the most sacred

Buddhist temple (wat) in Thailand.

It has all the features of a

monastery without the residential

quarter, for monks do not live

here. The Assembly Hall (Ubosoth)

is the monarch's private chapel,

hence the partition on either side

of the main altar used as a retiring

room. The “Emerald Buddha” is

carved from a block of jade. It is

an object of national veneration

and crowds come to pay respect.

The Emerald Buddha sits on an

altar of gold representing the

aerial chariot of Hindu gods. This

was discovered in Chiang Rai in

1464. King Chaichetta moved his

capital to a newly built town of

Viang Chan taking the Emerald

Buddha until the King of Thonburi

sent a punitive expedition which

brought it backWhen King Rama I

built the city of Bangkok and the

Grand Palace, the Emerald Buddha was installed in the chapel.

In front of the high altar Rama III set up two standing images of the Lord in dedication to his royal

predecessors. There is one other effigy, the Samphutthapanni Buddha image, held in high veneration

and placed in front of the high altar, installed by King Mongkut, Rama IV, when he was a monk. The

murals within this building are:

above the windows is the life of the Buddha commencing with the south west corner on the right of

the high altar with his birth, childhood, youth and renunciation in search of Truth; on the east wall

fronting the high altar is the temptation and enlightenment (the figure underneath the Buddha's

seat is Mother Earth; continuing along the north wall the mission and death.

Between the windows are some of the birth-stories and behind the window panels are the Proverbs.

Wat Pho

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 2

The panels of the doors contain exquisite inlaid work in mother-of-pearl. They all depict episodes from

the Ramakien. (The Thai version of the Ramayana)

Within the complex are many buildings in styles of the various reigns, including 12 smalls pavilions

surrounding the Ubosot. The Phra Sri Rattana Chedi is on the left, Phra Mondop (Library) is on the

middle and on the right the Prasart Phra Thep Bidorn is situated in The Upper Terrace.

On this are four main monuments: the Reliquary in the shape of a golden chedi; the Repository of the

Canon of Buddhism with its mother-of-pearl cabinet that displays the palm leaf scriptures at various

times of the year; the model of Angkor Wat crafted by Royal Command of King Mongkut (Rama IV);

and the Royal Pantheon where statues of past sovereigns of the ruling dynasty are enshrined.

Scattered round these monuments on the terrace are fanciful mythological animals.

To the north of the terrace is the Scripture Library, the west facade of which is said to be the finest in

Bangkok; the gabled Wiharn decorated with tiles and porcelain; and the mausoleum containing the

crematory relics of the Royal Family. Behind the Assembly Hall on the west side are two small chapels

housing effigies of the Buddha.

The Chapel Royal ground is enclosed by galleries, the murals of which depict the story of the Ramakien

of the first reign version, starting at the east gate with the war waged by Rama of Ayodthaya to rescue

his wife who had been abducted by Thotsakan (Ravana), King of Longka.

Phra Maha Monthian consists of three main buildings, namely:

the Audience Hall of Amarin Winitchai, where ceremonies of the Court take place in front of the

throne surmounted by its canopy of nine tiers of white cloth and backed by a boat shaped altar

fronting the door leading in to the inner chambers.

Paisal Taksin Coronation Hall with the coronation chair and the octagonal seat where the monarch

receives the people's invitation to rule, either side of an altar containing the symbolised figure of

Siam traditionally invoked for the good health of the state.

Below this is the antechamber to the Chakrapat Phiman building which was the residence of King

Rama I, Rama II and Rama III. It has subsequently become customary for the sovereign to pass at

least one night there after the coronation to signify his taking up official residence. Entering the

living apartments of Chakrapat Phiman by mounting a series of steps we come to a hall, at the left

of which on the east side is the royal bedchamber. On the west of the hall is a reception chamber

where are now kept the regalia and other paraphernalia of kingship.

The Chakri Maha Prasat Hall group was built for King Chulalongkorn, Rama V (1868-1910). Only the

reception portion is now used with two wings decorated with galleries of portraiture. In between is a

central throne-hall formerly used for the reception of foreign envoys and decorated with four canvasses

of diplomatic receptions - the reception by Queen Victoria of King Mongkut's ambassador in London;

Louis XIV's reception of the mission sent by King Narai of Ayutthaya in the Palace of Versailles; King

Mongkut's reception of the French Envoy; and the reception at Fontainebleau by the Emperor Napoleon

III of a Siamese Mission.

The Dusit Maha Prasat Hall was built by King Rama I as an audience hall with a throne of mother-of-

pearl surmounted by a nine-tiered white canopy, the mark of a crowned king. In front of this group is

the Disrobing Pavilion—Arpornphimok. Rama I intended that the present building be used for his Lying-

in-State as it has the same height and dimensions as the hall for the Lying-in-State in Ayutthaya. It is

still used for the Lying-in-State of kings, queens and honoured members of the royal family. This Hall

is also used for the annual Consecration Day Ceremony (Phra Ratcha Phithi Chat Mongkhon).

The Borom Phiman was built by Chulalongkorn, Rama V, and renovated by Rama VI in the western

style. It was also used as a royal residence by King Rama VII (1925-1935), King Rama VIII (1935-

1946), and the present King Rama IX. At present it serves as the Royal Guest House for visiting Heads

of State. On interest are a quadrangular dome over the inner chamber, with frescoes depicting the

Siamese conception of the Vedic gods of India held up as the guardians of the Universe. Beneath the

Vedic gods are written the Ten Kingly Virtues for the monarch's observance. It commands the beautiful

view of The Chapel Royal of The Emerald Buddha. To the south is the Chapel of the Crystal Buddha, a

gem afloat on waves of green lawns, and to the west a gabled pavilion, the Mahisorn Prasat built by

King Rama IV to enshrine the relics of his august father, King Rama II.

Wat Pho

Wat Pho is a Buddhist temple located adjacent to the Grand Palace, known also as the Temple of the

Reclining Buddha. The temple is also known as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. Prior to the

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 3

temple's founding, the site was a centre of education for traditional Thai medicine, and statues were

created showing yoga positions.

Adjacent to the building housing the Reclining Buddha is a small raised garden, the centrepiece being

a bodhi tree which is a scion (cutting) of the original tree in India where Buddha sat while

awaiting enlightenment. During a Rama III restoration of an earlier temple on the same site in 1788,

plaques inscribed with medical texts were placed around the temple. The temple was restored again

in 1982, and in 1962 a school for traditional medicine and massage was established.

Wat Pho is one of the largest and oldest wats in Bangkok (with an area of 80,000 square metres), and

is home to more than one thousand Buddha images, as well as one of the largest single Buddha

images: the Reclining Buddha (Phra Buddhasaiyas). The Wat Pho complex consists of two walled

compounds bisected by Soi Chetuphon running east–west. The northern walled compound is where the

reclining Buddha and massage school are found. The southern walled compound, Tukgawee, is a

working Buddhist monastery with monks in residence and a school.

The Wat and the Buddha are popular tourist stops, but around the back are the monks’ quarters,

where quiet lanes house monks praying and going about their daily work. Also, taking the back

entrance to the Wat from Maharat Road instead of the grand front entrance along Thai Wang Road

leads you to a quieter area without the throng of tourists lining up to see the reclining Buddha. Out

back there are fountains, small chedis, salas and shrines. This is the temple school area and there is

even a basketball court where sometimes you will see monks shooting some hoops in their brilliant

orange robes. It is a quiet place for relaxing and taking in the beautiful architecture of the monastery.

Dusit Palaces and the Vimanmek Mansion

Billed as the world's largest teakwood building, Vimanmek Mansion was built as a royal residence in

the first few years of the 20th century. It was only used for a few years before it fell into disuse and

was practically forgotten until the early eighties. It was rediscovered by Her Majesty the Queen and

turned into museum reflecting the Thai heritage from the dramatic reign of King Rama V.

From the single restored building in the 1980s, the Vimanmek Mansion Museum area now includes

over 20 restored structures of the old Dusit Palace displaying everything from ancient artifacts of

Thailand's pre-history to contemporary photographs donated by His Majesty the King. It is now a large

complex of museums where the buildings themselves form part of the "collection" on display.

Vimanmek is on many tourist trails, with large tour groups. However, most only tour the royal mansion

and do not visit the many other interesting buildings. If you want to visit the entire complex, its best to

go on your own or engage a personal tour guide. If you want to see most of what the museum has to

offer, allow at least half a day and start early to avoid the heat of the day.

It is best reached by taxi. The Phayathai station is the closest Skytrain stop, but it’s a long walk. The

river is slightly closer and you can walk or take a tuk-tuk from the Thewet Pier. Admission is 100 ฿

(see Grand Palace ticket details) which entitles you to enter every building and gallery. Note that you

will need to show your ticket to the attendant at the entrance to every building. The museum and

grounds are open every day from 8:30 until 4:30. The ticket office closes at 3:30.

Between the royal plaza containing the Ananta Samakorn Throne Hall and the Chitlada palace is one of

the most beautiful temples in all of Bangkok, Wat Benjamabophit. Quite commonly known as "the

Marble Temple" for its use of fine Italian marble, it's another one of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn)'s

contributions to Bangkok's architectural heritage.

The Royal Elephant National Museum (Changton National Museum), Uthong Nai Rd (near the

National Assembly inside the Dusit Palace compound), used to house the royal stables of the King's

white elephants, but, since 1988, is a museum about these extremely rare creatures. They are

considered holy animals in Thailand, as a white elephant with six tusks appeared in a dream to

Buddha's mother when she conceived her child. Open 09:30-16:00 daily, adm 5 baht.

Anantasamakhom Throne Hall, (behind the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall) is a renaissance and neo-

classical-style building was constructed of Italian marble under the commission of King Rama V in

1906. The construction was completed in the reign of King Rama VI. The dome of the throne hall

houses picturesque frescoes of royal activities undertaken during the reigns from Kings Rama I to

Rama VI. The building serves as a venue for royal and state ceremonies and was used as the National

Assembly before it was moved to the current building behind it. Currently it houses arts and crafts

made with traditional Thai techniques. Open 09:30-16:00 daily, adm 50 baht. Note that they do not

allow women in in trousers.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 4

Also in Dusit area

Between the old Dusit palace (Vimanmek Mansion) and the Chitlada Palace is the Dusit Zoo. The large

park was originally the private botanical garden of King Rama V. It is still home to some distinctive

tropical flora. The zoo is well kept by Asian standards, and very popular with Thais, not only for the

animals but also for the cool green space and the great food. The Dusit Zoo is thought by many locals

to have some of the best (and cheapest) food in Bangkok.

Along the northern side of Krung Kasem Road from the river to Samsen Road is Bangkok's premier

garden center. While you're unlikely to find anything you can take home, browsing the market does

make the walk from Tewet Pier to Wat Indrawiharn or the Dusit Palace a bit more pleasant.

Suan Pakkad Palace

This collection of traditional Thai houses was brought together by Prince and Princess Chumbhot in

1952. Some of the houses belonged to the prince's family and all are more than a century old. The

name Suan Pakkad literally translates to "cabbage patch" as the land was originally used for farming.

The combination of traditional architecture, elegant gardens and the collection make it worth a visit.

You can easily get to Suan Pakkad using the Skytrain. Take the Sukhumvit Line to the Phayathai

station. Exit the station on the north side and take the stairs down to the street that are nearest the

Florida Hotel. Continue walking along Sri Ayuthaya road to get to Suan Pakkad Palace. It's no more

than a five minute walk. The palace is open from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm every day. Admission is 100 ฿.

Like almost all traditional Thai houses, these are two stories high. The ground floors are more or less

open while the second floor is where the main living quarters are. Some of the buildings here have had

the ground floors enclosed to accommodate shops and exhibits, but most are close to their original

state. Many of the buildings are linked by bridges on the second floor, so you can easily walk from

building to building without going up and down a lot of stairs.

The buildings surround a Japanese garden. Those in the front contain statues and other arts dating

back as far as the 7th century. There are also artifacts from the daily life of royalty, including food

containers decorated with mother-of-pearl and silver, betel nut boxes, clothing and ecclesiastical fans.

Other houses display archaeological finds from Ban Chieng, collections of rocks and minerals, shells,

Khon masks used in the Thai classical dance, Benjarong pottery and other Thai ceramics.

Set a little off on its own at the edge of the garden is the "Lacquer Pavilion." The structure is over 200

years old and formerly stood in a monastery on the Chao Phraya river just south of Ayuthaya. The late

Prince Chumbhot purchased the building and moved it to these grounds, then had it restored. The

pavilion consists of a "room within a room" with a narrow corridor around this with walls decorated in

carved gilded wood. The inner room is decorated in gold and black lacquer. The Lacquer Pavilion is the

only one of the buildings that you have to take off your shoes before entering.

Next to the Lacquer Pavilion is a barge designed to transport royalty. It used to sit in a canal that was

part of the gardens but has been raised up to preserve it. Beyond the barge is a modern structure that

houses more displays of pottery finds from Ban Chieng. Next to this exhibition is the Marsi gallery,

which puts on temporary exhibits of contemporary art throughout the year.

The Jim Thompson Thai House

Jim Thompson was an American who first came to Thailand as part of the OSS (the precursor of the

CIA) towards the end of World War II. On leaving the service, he returned to Thailand, where he saw

the potential of the almost forgotten industry of silk weaving, and is credited with reviving the lost art.

Thompson's appreciation of things Thai extended to all of the arts and architecture. His house, a

collection of six buildings, represents some of the best of traditional Thai architecture. Many of the

houses were at least two centuries old. While this would be an outrageously expensive exercise today,

this was the 1950's, when old was definitely out of fashion and everybody wanted something modern.

People were more than happy to have this American pay them for what they thought of as junk.

The houses were reconstructed and put together in a very traditional fashion, although most of the

modern conveniences such as electricity and indoor plumbing have been incorporated. The house

quickly became known around town, and was ultimately opened to the public even before Thompson's

mysterious disappearance while visiting friends in the Malaysian Cameron Highlands.

The house is not open to tour groups which may be why it is not crowded. It is also at the end of a

longish alley (soi) and so not well know by taxi drivers. Fortunately, the new Skytrain system may

make it easier for more people to enjoy this little gem. Alight at the "National Stadium" station and use

Exit 1 (do not follow the crowd; they're heading to MBK Center). You will need to make a "U-turn" at

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 5

the bottom of the stairs and walk back along the street away from the station. A very short walk will

put you right at the mouth of the soi leading to the house, which is well signed.

Whilst you can visit the exhibition space and Jim Thompson store for free, tours of the house itself are

guided only and cost 100 ฿. There is also now a full service restaurant and bar on the grounds.

M.R. Kukr it Her itage House

Mom Rachawongse (M.R.) Kukrit Pramot was something of a renaissance man in modern Thai history.

Educated at Oxford, he started the Siam Rath newspaper on his return to Thailand. He entered politics

after World War II, starting Thailand's first political party, and was Prime Minister during the 1970s.

He also maintained a keen interest in the dramatic arts, and even acted in the 1963 film The Ugly

American starring Marlon Brando. He wrote many short stories, novels, stage plays and poetry, was a

scholar with a keen interest in Thai and Asian culture, and authored several reference works on the

subject. He was awarded the title of National Artist. Kukrit passed away in 1995 at the age of 84,

leaving instructions that his home be opened to the public.

M. R. Kukrit's house reflects his deep interest in Thai culture, and his own efforts at preserving it. The

home is the result of over 20 years work. While it now appears as a unified whole, the various

buildings were purchased separately from different places around central Thailand, disassembled, and

re-assembled in the present location. One unique aspect of traditional Thai houses is that they are

actually made to be movable in this fashion.

The main buildings, five of them in all, are arranged in very typical Thai fashion on an elevated

platform around an open courtyard. A sixth building, a large open-sided pavilion with a stage, is

separated from the main house group by a small garden decorated with small bonsai plants. The stage

was used for traditional dance performances, and on either side of it are display cases storing the late

statesman's collection of khon masks.

In the residential group, the largest building was used for receiving special guests. At one end is an old

wooden bed thought to have been the royal bed of King Rama II, Kukrit's great-grandfather. Flanking

either side of the reception room are smaller buildings. The one closest to the stairs is the family

chapel. The altar displays many Buddha images given to or collected by Kukrit over the years. The

other small structure was used as a more informal sitting room.

On one side of the court is the bedroom,

which is divided by ornately carved wooden

screens. Facing this is the library, containing

many books in English from Kukrit's days at

Oxford. The room was also used for party

meetings. In front of the library are more

miniature trees, including fruit trees. At the

end of the courtyard is a small "bird

watching" pavilion overlooking the large rear

garden, with a large lawn beyond. There are

two small pavilions on either end of the lawn.

The M.R. Kukrit Heritage Home is located on

the small side street of Soi Phra Phinij, near

the busy Sathorn Road. The easiest way to

get there is by Skytrain to the Chongnonsi

Station. From the station, use the elevated

walkways to cross Sathorn Road and descend to the street. Soi Phra Phinij is the first side-street you

will come to. The heritage house is about 100 meters up the road on your right.

The house is open every day from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. It is frequently used for private functions, so

it is advisable to call them to check they are open to the public. The telephone number is 02 286 8185.

Admission is 50 ฿ for adults. See the M.R. Kukrit Heritage Home web site for additional details.

Wat Arun

The Temple of the Dawn is the star of many a "visit Thailand" poster, perhaps better known than the

Grand Palace. Unfortunately, being a cover model has its drawbacks, and the temple is probably a little

too popular for its own good, but it's still such an outstanding monument that it's worth a visit.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 6

The towering prang with its four smaller siblings was started by Rama II in the early part of the

19th century, and completed by his successor Rama III. The temple in which the prang sits is actually

much older. It dates from the Ayuthaya period.

The prang is not only unique in its design, which is a blend of Khmer and Thai styles, but also in

decoration. Over the brick core, a layer of plaster was applied and then decorated with bits of Chinese

porcelain and glazed ceramic tiles, not as extravagant as it might sound, as in the early days of

Bangkok, Chinese trading ships calling on the Siamese capital used tons of porcelain as ballast.

Like the bell shaped chedi, the central Prang represents Mount Meru, home of the gods. The four

smaller prangs symbolize the four winds. High up on the four smaller towers, you can see a statue

of Pai, god of the winds, on his horse.

In the middle of each side of the square formed by the smaller prangs are pavilions containing Buddha

images depicting the four stages of the Buddha's life, birth, meditation, preaching and enlightenment.

These guard the stairways to the second and third levels of the big prang. Unfortunately, you can only

climb up to the first level. The second and third levels are now closed to the public. Behind the prang is

the temple complex proper. The bot is interesting and decorated on the inside similar to the prang.

There are several other small prangs and beautiful gardens in the temple grounds.

It costs 20 ฿ to enter the prang compound. Also be prepared for the obligatory exit through an alley

lined with souvenir stalls. Just about everyone gets to Wat Arun by boat. Take the Chao Phraya River

Express to the Tha Thien pier, then transfer to the cross-river ferry, which costs 3 ฿.

Off the Beaten Track

When you are in Bangkok, walk as much as you can. Do not do as most tourists and visitors who only

move by taxi or tuk-tuk. Walking around Bangkok, you will find more interesting things than you have

ever imagined. The hidden Bangkok is really not far from the tourist streets but there are no tourists

there. Just a couple of blocks from the main roads, you will find rows of market stalls and restaurants

with more authentic foods, people and goods than the tourist traps can offer.

Siam Square is the main fashion shopping centre. At weekends the middle Sio (known as centrepoint)

is filled with young Thais wearing the most outrageous clothing experiments they can create.

Chulalongkorn University Campus is worth a visit for a leisurely stroll. Since the 90s when many

buildings were under construction, the area has become much quieter and more park-like. Today the

campus is green with grass and tree lined ways, and faculty houses and dormitories have acquired

patina. The little sois around the campus have many student's coffee houses and ice cream bars. It is a

good idea to walk through the campus to Siam Square, where clothes stores sell university student's

uniforms and the Chulalongkorn bookstore is located.

Phahon Yothin soi 7 is also known as soi Ari (very near our apartment). This is a great place to

experience the real Bangkok at street level, not least gastronomic-wise. Soi Ari is rather quiet in the

daytime, so come in the early evening, when the area gets lively. Walking west on the main soi will

take you past an uncountable number of tiny shops, food stalls, knick-knack stores and a plethora of

other things for sale. Some of the best food options here are rice dishes with duck, chicken or beef and

a wide variety of boiled, fried, barbecued and roasted snacks. Hordes of motorcycle taxis and tuk-tuks

are battling cars for a piece of the road, school children, office workers walk home or eat before they

start home, beggars, construction workers and the odd elephant. You will not be bored. The area has

many sub-sois. Most of them contain condos and apartments, but still there are a few small cafes and

eateries scattered around. Most of these small sois are heavily treed which is a rarity in Bangkok.

This makes the area a good place to stroll around and explore the neighbourhood.

Bangkok Butterfly Garden and Insectarium, Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd (MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS

Mo Chit), ☎+66 2 272-4359(-60). Tu-Su, hols 08:30-16:30. This insect garden is split in four main

sections. The first section is an area with touch-screen computers that give an introduction to the

garden. The second is a mini-theatre where a presentation is given on insects and the ecological

system they are a part of. The third section is an exhibition room that shows the breeding of insects

and butterfly embryos. And finally, the last section is a large cage that displays more than 500

butterflies of 20 different kinds. The garden simulates the insects' natural habitat with rocks, shady

ferns, wild flowers and a waterfall. Free.

Benjasiri Park is a little oasis amid the raging city traffic, situated west of Emporium shopping center.

Get off at Phrom Phong Skytrain station. Here you’ll find grassy areas to take a nap and a large pond

in the middle. If you come during the late afternoon and early evening, you can see crowds of people

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 7

taking part in group aerobics, Tai-Chi or strolling with their families. Check out the teams playing the

acrobatic game of takraw, a kind of cross between volleyball and football.

Underneath the same station via exit 4 is soi 24, where you can find the famous restaurant

Lemongrass. Just before that, you'll find a small dead-end soi running past a tiny 7-11. Inside this soi

are two well stocked used bookstores. The first is on the right and simply has a sign in the window

saying Book. Across from this is Thaibrary which both sells and lends books in a relaxed space.

Cultural performances

There are many cultural performances in Bangkok that shows traditional Thai culture and dance. The

area around Thailand Cultural Centre is the place to go for cultural performances. Siam Niramit is

one of the best traditional Thai shows in Bangkok.

Siam Niramit, 19 Tiamruammit Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre, it is diagonally across from the

Thailand Cultural Centre), ☎ +66 2 649-92. Showtime 20:00 daily. This is a state-of-the-art

cultural performances centre, which uses modern technology integrated with old fashioned drama

to depict the history of each region of Thailand. The story also includes depictions of hells, the

forest of Himmaphan, heavens and lands beyond imagination from Thai literature, all of which are

influenced by Thai common beliefs. There is also a spectacular performance of Thailand's arts and

cultural heritage. The show is staged by more than 150 performers. 1,500 ฿

Thailand Cultural Centre, Walthana Tham Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), ☎ +66 2 247-

0028. The Thailand Cultural Centre is a fully integrated venue for social education and cultural

activities. There aren't many foreigners in this area, so most of the shows are aimed at local

visitors. It is a world-class centre that has room for more than 2,000 visitors. There's always

something on, most of the time (inter)national symphony orchestra performances, but most

foreigners come over to see a traditional Thai cultural show. You might want to call in first and find

out about the current programme before heading out

Of a completely different order are Bangkok's famous transvestite shows. These cabarets generally

take about two hours, and besides singing, dancing, glamour and costumes, usually it also has some

comedy thrown in. The most famous show is Calypso Cabaret, B1, Asia Hotel Bldg, 296 Phaya Thai

Rd (BTS Ratchathewi), ☎ +66 2 653-3960(-2). 20:15, 21:45 daily. The performances takes place in

two sessions every evening. The show consists of singing, dancing and remarkable costumes. At least

make a reservation at their website three days before you want to attend the show. 1,200 ฿.

Golden Dome Cabaret, 252/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 18 (MRT Sutthisan, then a short taxi-ride), ☎ +66

2 692-8202(-5). Showtime 17:00, 19:00 and 22:00 daily. Another one of Bangkok's typical ladyboy

shows. Three shows are given every evening.

Bangkok Markets

Despite the presence of way too many glittering

new shopping malls, Bangkok is still a city of

markets. There are markets in just about every

neighbourhood, and some have become so famous

that they draw customers from all around the city,

as well as international visitors. Here's a list of the

more interesting markets that you may want to

work into your visit

Chatuchak Weekend Market

This weekend market is something of a Bangkok

institution. It has a reputation for having just about

everything you can imagine on sale (which it

deserves) at cheap prices (a reputation it doesn't

necessarily deserve). It is only open on Saturday

and Sunday. Hours are basically sunrise to sunset,

but most shops don't open until around 10:00. Here

you'll find everything from pets and plants to clothes

and antiques. The market is open-air, though mostly

covered, and can be hot. The small twisting aisles

make it easy to get lost but it's hard to go too far in

any one direction before hitting the open centre area

with its clock tower, or the drive circling the market.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 8

The market is organized into sections for clothing, pets, furniture, etc. but you'll find anything

anywhere. There are three stations near the market

The market has been expanded a couple of times in the more than 20 years it's been at its current

location. The original market is a reversed "L" shape. Stalls consist of one or two spaces about three

meters (10 feet) square. The stalls and the narrow aisles between them are covered, but mostly not

enclosed and air conditioned (see JJ Mall below).

A large centre courtyard runs down the centre of the "L", with a clock tower in the centre. The old

portion is surrounded by what once was the parking area, but cars have now been banned from the

market, making it cooler than it was. Electric carts now provide free transportation around the market.

Many visitors miss the newer sections, officially known as "Chatuchak Plaza". The aisles are

considerably wider in this area, which makes it much cooler than the old market. The new section is

mostly devoted to decorative items such as lamps, fountains and wood carvings. North of this section

is a large market selling tropical fish and all the associated equipment needed for a home aquarium.

In early 2007, JJ Ma l l , the first fully air-conditioned mall opened at the Chatuchak market. Although

air-conditioned, the new mall maintains the market atmosphere, with small stalls selling a wide range

of goods. The mall itself covers just three floors, the rest is parking. Since it's air conditioned, shopping

here is quite a bit cooler than in the main market. Added amenities include several restaurants and a

large food court. The mall is open every day from 10:00 to 21:00.

Garment District

This rabbit-warren market sells ready-to-wear clothes of the kind mass produced in Thailand. You can

pick up clothes very cheaply here. There are custom tailors here as well. It is on Thanon Petchaburi

South of Ratachprop Station (Airport Link)

Patpong Night Bazaar

It may seem odd for Bangkok's infamous red light district to be the site of a popular market, but

Thailand is full of such contradictions. Beginning around 7:00 p.m. every day, the sidewalks of Silom

Road as well as Patpong itself are filled with stalls selling clothing, trinkets, music and sundry other,

mainly fake, items. It can be quite crowded and there are of course a lot of touts on the prowl, so you

need to be on your guard. Get off at Sala Daeng Station and follow the vendors (NE of the station).

Railroad Market

The Railroad Market, or Talat Rotfai, is a relatively new option for antique hunters in Bangkok. If you

only have time for one of the weekly night markets, this is probably the one to take in.

The market occupies a large paved area and old warehouses on the edge of the Bang Sue rail yard,

about a five minute walk from the Kampaengphet subway station (see map). Like the Ratchada

market, most of the stalls set up in the lot

sell antiques - or junk, depending on your

point of view - collected by an individual

and bought to the market each week.

There are some permanent shops and

restaurants in the old rail warehouses

which sell antique furniture and other

collectibles, and are open daily from 10:00

am to 6:00 pm and till late on

Saturday/Sunday. However, the market

only operates on Saturday and Sunday,

from 5:00 pm to late and doesn't really

get going until around 7:00 pm.

If using the subway, take it to the Kampaengphet station, and use the exit to Kampaengphet 2 Road.

Walk away from the intersection along Kampaengphet Road. You'll pass several plant stalls and then

many nightclubs before reaching the market. You really can't miss it. At the entrance to the market is

Troy's bar/restaurant open from 5 pm. to 1 am on Saturday and Sunday.

Phahurat Indian Market

Phahurat owes its name to King Chulalongkorn, who named the place after his daughter Phahurat

Manimai, who died at the tender age of ten. It is located on the fringes of Chinatown, at Phra Nakhon

District, in an ethnic neighborhood, adjoining Phahurat Road. Most of the locals of the area are of

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 9

South Asian descent, with the populace comprising mainly of Hindus, Muslims, and Sikhs. Most of the

merchants are Indian Sikhs engaging in the textile business. They have an unique way of greeting

female shoppers: Khunying which is a Thai royal title meaning “My noble Lady”.

Due to its thriving textile trade, the market is ideal to procure some good quality fabrics and dress

materials. In fact, most of the shops are known for their huge line of Indian ethnic outfits and different

varieties of Indian souvenirs. Besides, the place also offers an amazing selection, when it comes to

Indian cottons and silks. Aside from clothing and dress materials, the shops also trade in an incredible

assortment of jewelry, cosmetics, handbags, shoes, and other knick-knacks, all at cheap rates.

Another thing that makes Phahurat popular is its vast array of Indian cuisines. The main street and the

various alleyways spill over some mouthwatering Indian fares, wrapped in pungent Indian herbs and

spices. You can also test excellent variety of sweets and desserts that bring out the best from many

states across India.

Bangkok Fresh Markets

Fresh markets can be a feast for the senses. Those really "into" Thai food, or just into food in general,

may really find them interesting. While modern supermarkets are quite common all around Bangkok,

many Thais still prefer to get fresh produce at traditional markets. The big markets are the most

interesting, and there are several that are easy for the independent traveller to find.

Aw Taw Gaw

The Agriculture Ministry's demonstration fresh market is one of the easiest markets to get to, and it's

also the one of the nicest fresh markets in Bangkok, with an exit from the Kampangphet subway

station right inside the market. The market is a lot less grotty than most fresh markets, especially

since an upgrade in 2009. In addition, since the Aw Taw Gawmarket is right across the street from

the Chatuchak market, they're used to the occasional tourist wandering through, so you may see some

signs in English as well as some stall owners that have rudimentary English skills.

The market has something of a reputation for having things, like yellow mangoes, when they're

generally out of season and not carried in other markets. In addition, many of the stalls are adept at

packing fruits and sweets for shipment, if your country allows this.

The market carries a wide variety of items, from fresh meats and seafood, to fruits, vegetables, dry

goods like rice, and a large selection of sweets. There's also a small collection of food stalls, which

makes the market one good option for eating if you're visiting Chatuchak and get hungry. Unlike

Chatuchak, the Aw Taw Gaw market is open every day, from early morning until the evening.

Klong Toey

The sprawling market next to Bangkok's main sea port

sells fresh seafood, fruit, vegetables, and just about

everything else you can think of. The Klong Toey area of

Bangkok is home to Bangkok's largest shantytown with

the last remnants of old wooden houses, narrow lanes,

children bathing, etc. It's also Bangkok's main sea port.

This is where a great many goods are bought into the

country. Some of those goods reportedly get, shall we

say, "lost", on their way to the distributor and then later

turn up at the district's sprawling market.

Shopping for a grey-market rice cooker is probably not

something for the average traveller, but the market's

huge selection of seafood, meats, vegetables and fresh

fruits is quite a sight, that is well worth the trip for

dedicated foodies, or photographers looking to get off

the regular tourist trail.

The market is open from dawn to nightfall. Early morning

is the most interesting time. Chances are you’ll be the

only foreigner around. Be warned: the meat section is

not for the squeamish.

The market is easy to reach on the subway to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center station.

Leave the station using Exit 1. On the street, head south toward the intersection with Rama IV Road.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 10

The market is directly ahead of you across Rama IV Road. Use one of the two pedestrian bridges to

cross the street. There's a small herb garden along Rama IV Road outside the market.

Pak Klong Talat

Right next to the royal city is Bangkok's oldest wholesale fresh market, with lots of fresh flowers and

traditional sweets, Pak Klong Talat is one the oldest fresh markets in Bangkok, and still one of the

main wholesale markets for fresh fruit and vegetables. The name translates as "canal mouth market",

which is a straightforward description of the market's location on the Chaophraya River at the point

where the "Lord" canal empties into it, just outside of the royal city area.

The market dates from the earliest days of Bangkok, when it first became the new Thai capital in the

late 18th century. However, the character of the market has changed over time. It has been a fish

market at one time, then converted to a produce market, with most of the goods arriving by river boat.

The remains of the docks can still be seen from the river. While there is still a good business in fresh

produce, the market is best known for fresh flowers.

The market is open 24 hours every day, but is at its most active in the wee hours of the morning. By

noon the place can be a little deserted, although the stalls along the street on Chakphet Road are

always busy. You'll find lots of Thai sweets on sale in addition to the flowers.

The easiest way to reach the market is by express boat to the Memorial Bridge (Saphan Puut) pier.

Turn left on leaving the pier and walk up along the river. There will be a queue of buses along the

street, as the area under the bridges is sort of a transportation hub. The market is directly ahead of

you along the river. You'll be entering the back of the market, so first impressions will be smelly.

Taling Chan Floating Market

Taling Chan Floating Market is located on the canal Khlong Chak Phra in front of the district office.

Opening hours - Saturdays and Sundays 0800 – 1700 hours. Orchard produce such as fruits,

and vegetables, as well as fish are sold from boats. There is a live traditional Thai music performance

from 11:00 to 14:00. The idea for the floating market here was initiated by Chamlong Srimuang in

1987 to honour King Bhumibol's 60th birthday. This is a new attraction since floating markets, an old

way of life of the Thai people, had vanished entirely from Bangkok for quite a long time.

The atmosphere at the Taling Chan floating market is very local and non-touristy less the hassle of

touts and inflated prices. The street vendors are very pleasant and polite. Most of the stalls sell food.

Visitors are mostly Thai with less than a dozen tourists.

Air-conditioned bus service 79 - Ratchaprasong, Ratchadamri Rd., Petchaburi Rd., Lan Luang Rd.,

Democracy Monument, Rajchadamnern Klang Rd., Prapinklao Bridge, Prapinklao Rd., Jaransanitwong

Rd., Taling Chan Floating Market. Also 83 bus – but I can’t find the route for this. I am told a taxi is

about 250-300 ฿ one way. This is probably the best bet and we can return by bus.

Canal boat tours can be taken from the pier at this floating market. The tours cover the Snake Garden

(adults/children – 150/60 ฿) and the Orchid Farm (adult/children – 90/50 ฿). Tickets are available

from the booth near the information counter.

Bangkok Waterways (Klongs or khlongs)

There are hundreds of miles of klongs, many pulsating with long-tail boats ferrying goods and people

These klongs are a continuation of a river tradition that has been going on for centuries. For many

visitors, the trip may provide some of the most unforgettable experiences while in Thailand.

The place to catch one of the unusual boats is the Tha Chang Wang Luang Pier. Walk down on Na Phra

Lan Road to Tha Chang Market on the riverside. Just before boarding the ferry, pick up some local

fruits, cold juices in plastic bags or any Thai snacks to enjoy while cruising.

Take the tour to one of Thonburi klongs on the other side of the river aboard any of the long-tail boats

at the pier on your left. You can also walk straight ahead to the outer pier to catch the Chao Phraya

Express ferry boat to Chinatown, Wat Arun, Park Klong Talad (the largest fresh market), River City

Shopping Complex, the Oriental Hotel, Shangri-La Hotel or to Nonthaburi Town Hall.

Each canal has its own charm, but Klong Bangkok Noi (the former Chao Phraya River) is the most

popular because it offers a constantly changing view of life along the klong. You will see Thai riverside

house much as they were for centuries: temples adorned with intricately cut-glass and ceramic pieces,

and saffron robed monks meditating placidly under the shade of a tree

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 11

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 12

The boatman will drop you anywhere you want along the way, so if you see a place you'd like to

explore, wave ask him to stop. When you're ready to move on again, flag down another boat and

continue your journey.

Tourists can book such a tour through travel agents or rent a boat at Tha Chang (Tel: (02) 225-6179,

(02) 623-6169), a pier near the Grand Palace, or Tha Si Phraya (Tel: (02) 235-3108) near the River

City Shopping Complex.

Chao Phraya River Express Boats

Express Boat - Local Lines (No Flag)

Runs Monday-Friday from Wat

Rajsingkorn to Nonthaburi 06.00 am.-

18.00 pm. and departure every 20

minutes; the fare range from 10 to 14

Express Boat (Orange Flag)

Runs daily from Wat Rajsingkorn to

Nonthaburi during 05.50 am.-19.00 pm.

and the fare 15 ฿.

Express Boat (Yellow Flag)

Runs Monday-Friday from Sathorn to

Nonthaburi; and Ratburana (Big C) to

Nonthaburi during 06.10 am.-19.30 pm.

and the fare 20-29 ฿.

Express Boat (Blue Flag)

Runs Monday-Friday from Sathorn

(Taksin) to Nonthaburi (Pibul 3) during

07.00 am.-18.25 pm. Fare 24-34 ฿.

On both sides of the Chao Phraya River

are magnificent temples and

architectural buildings including the First

Presbyterian Church, the Royal Thai

Navy Dockyard, the Thai Maritime

Navigation Company, the Old Customs

House, Wat Prayunwong, Wat Arun,

the Grand Palace, Wat Rakhang

Kositaram, and the Royal Boat House.

To Pak Kret and Koh Kret (Green

Flag)

Note this is north of the map alongside.

When arriving at Pak Kret, you can travel

further to Koh Kret, a small island in the

Chao Phraya River, on a river ferry that

leaves Wat Sanam Nua, located within a

short walking distance from Pak Kret

Pier, during 6.00 a-m.-9.00 p.m.

Returning to Pak Kret, visitors are able

to catch a small long-tail boat at any pier

around the island. The atmosphere

surrounding the pier is very calm. (See

Berndston Map ref: aE 4)

Attractions on Koh Kret:

Pottery Village is located along the pathway around the island. There are some huts where visitors are

able to see through the pottery making process. Villagers make various kinds of earthen products for

daily use such as pots, mortars, and flowerpots. This is the oldest and biggest source of earthenware in

Nonthaburi province, in the village, there is the Ancient Mon Pottery Center where pottery in various

style is exhibited.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 13

Wat Paramal Ylkawat was constructed in Mon style over 200 years ago. King Rama V commanded to

renovate the monastery dedicated to his grandmother and to construct Phra Maha Raman Chedi (a

chedi in Mon style) to house Buddha relics. The principal Buddha of the monastery is carved with

marble in Mon style, so it is also called "Wat Mon" (Mon Temple).

Wat Phal Lom is well-known for the magnificent bot (ordination hall) in the Ayutthaya style. Some

parts have been changed due to renovation. Behind the bot, there is achedi in Mon style.

Wat Sao Thong Thong houses an old Ayutthaya style chedi and was the first secondary school in Pak

Kret. Besides, There are many other interesting ancient monasteries most of which were constructed in

the Mon and the Ayutthaya styles.

Regular Boat Service on the Chao Phraya River (see details and map above)

In a city teaming with traffic like Bangkok, an even easier way to experience a bit of Bangkok is to

hop on the Chao Phrya Express boats that run along the river in both directions. A boat runs every

20 minutes, but in the rush hours they run about every 5 minutes. For 20 baht you could ride the

express boat from the "Central Pier" (Ta Sathorn Pier, under the Saphan Takin BTS station) all the

way to the end of the line at Nonthaburi, a fascinating journey of about an hour. It’s also a fast way

to get to the Grand Palace at Ta Chang Pier, and other interesting locations.

Standard Express Boats

(from 10 Baht)

Daily from 6:00am-

6:00pm

Designated Piers from Wat Ratchsingkorn Pier

to Nonthaburi Pier

Special Express Boats

(Fares start at 10 Baht)

Monday-Friday Only

from 6:00am-

9:00am

and 12:00pm-

7:00pm

Three Routes:

Rajburana Pier to Nonthaburi Pier Sathorn Pier

J5 to Nonthaburi Pier Wat Ratchsingkorn Pier

to Pak Kret

Cross River Ferries

(3 Baht)

Daily from 8:00am -

5:00pm

Shangri-La Hotel to Dumax Pier Oriental Pier

to Suwan Pier Si Phaya Pier to Klongsan Pier

Ratchawongse Pier I5 to Din Daeng Pier I5

Thien Pier to Wat Arun Pier Chang Pier to

Phrannok Pier Pra Chan Pier to Thonburi

Railway Pier Pra Chan to Phra Pin Klao Pier Pra

Atit Pier to Phra Pin Klao Pier

Other Taxi Boat Services

Pier Klong Highlights

Nonthaburi Pier (Pier 3 aka Si

Phraya by the Royal Orchid

Hotel

Khlong Om Leaves from pier every 15 minutes.

Scenery includes durian plantations

Thien Pier (Pier 8 between Wat

Pho and the Palace)

Khlong Mon Leaver every half hour from 6:30am - 6:00pm

Highlights include typical canal scenery and

orchid Farms

Thien Pier (P8)

Rachinee Pier (P7)

Saphan Phut (P6 by memorial

Bridge)

Khlong Bangkok Tai Highlights include Wat Intharam where a chedi

contains the ashes of Thonburi's King Taksin,

the Snake Farm and Wat Sai Floating Market.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 14

Trip Along Khlong Bangkok Noi - Khlong Bang Yai

A boat service operates from 6.30 a.m.-11.00 p.m. The boats depart from Tha Chang/Maharaj Pier

every half hour. They leave the pier when there are enough passengers. The boat fare is 30 Baht per

person. It takes 50 minutes to Bang Yai, a district in Nonthaburi.

Attractions along Khiong Bangkok Noi are as follows

The Royal Barge National Museum exhibits royal barges and their ornaments used for waterborne state

ceremonies which have been held occasionally since the Sukhothai period. During the Ayutthaya

period, a procession was held for the royal Kathin ceremony at the end of the rainy season in order to

carry the kings to their royal monasteries to offer robes and other monastic paraphernalia to the

monks. The museum is open every day 9.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. Admission fee is 30 ฿.

Wat Suwannaram is a big royal monastery constructed during the reign of King Rama I and was

subsequently renovated during the reign of King Rama III. Inside the bot, there are murals depicting

the jataka, deities and the Buddha image in Subduing Mara Posture.

Wat Si Sudaram (Chi Pakhao) built in the Ayutthaya period was renovated by Rama I. Interests include

Tarn Nak Daeng (a pavilion). Sala Kan Parian (a sermon hall), and the residence of Sunthon Phu (the

greatest poet of the Rattanakosin period). Visitors enjoy feeding freshwater fish here.

Wat Chalo is believed to have been constructed during the Sukhothai period as some Buddha images in

Sukhothai style were found in front of the bot.

Wat Pho Bang O is a monastery from the reign of Rama III. The top of the bot was made of wood;

mural painting inside the bot was made during the existence of the Nonthaburi school of painting.

Wat Bang 0l Chang houses a 200-year-old Buddha sole, which was found by Phra Khru Nawa Kam

Koson (the first abbot of this monastery) while traveling in Phitsanuloke province in 1986.

Wat Kaeo Fa is an ancient temple located in an open area next to Khiong Bangkok Noi. According to

archaeologists, many buildings and art objects here were constructed in the Ayutthaya style - the

Ubosot, the Buddha image, the boundary stones, the boundary wall, the chedi behind the bot and the

chedi with 12 cornered indented pillar. The monastery was renovated during the Rattanakosin period.

Wat Prasat was built during the Late Ayutthaya period. The monastery is well-known for its well-

preserved mural painting from the Nonthaburi school, and the gable made of carved timber. Visitors

who come along by boat have to walk about 2 kilometers through orchards from the pier.

Wat Amphawan is from the Late Ayutthaya period. This temple houses Ho Trai (a hall for keeping

scriptures) which is situated in the middle of a pond. The wooden building is in magnificent Thai style.

Trip Along Khlong Bang Yai - Khlong Om - Nonthaburi

After arriving at Bang Yai (a district in Nonthaburi), travellers to Nonthaburi can catch another taxi

boat at Wat Sao Thong Hin pier which is situated within a walking distance from Bang Yai pier. The

boat service operates 4.00 a.m. -8.00 p.m and takes 15-20 minutes. The fare is 12 ฿/person. Next to

Wat Sao Thong Hin, Wat Rat Prakhong Tham is a three-top building housing a huge reclining Buddha.

Along the route, visitors are able to enjoy the peaceful scenery and waterway life along Khlong Om.

Houses along both sides of the canal look very tidy. Almost every house is made of wood in the same

style. Colourful flowers are also planted along verandahs by the river.

Wat Pak Nam is famous for amulets and is always crowded with a number of people who come to make

merit during the weekend.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 15

BANGKOK GUIDE – GENERAL AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Metro, Skytrain and Airport Link

Skytrain (BTS)

The Sky Train is an efficient and convenient low-cost way to navigate around the city. It is an elevated

train that runs through the main business districts, but doesn’t go ’everywhere’ (i.e taxis and tuk tuk

rides are still needed). Train stations are well marked and well tended. It may be worth your while

buying a 100 ฿ ticket that you can charge up by adding more money to it and recharge when you like

so as to save queuing for tickets or for change for the machines. A three-day unlimited use ticket can

now be purchased at all stations and many hotels for just 280 ฿. Included is a tourist guide and system

map. There is also multiple ride pass of 20 trips or more to any zone (15 trips cost 345 ฿, 25 trips cost

550 ฿; plus a 30 ฿refundable deposit for a rechargeable card. Several stations now also have tourist

information centres with qualified English speaking attendants to answer your travel questions.

Information centres are located at Siam, Saladaeng and Taksin stations. The service ends at midnight.

Subway (MRT)

The Subway (MRT) is a welcome addition to the Skytrain and gives access to more areas than the

Skytrain already does. There are interchange stations at Silom and at Asoke where you have the

possibility to change from the subway to the Skytrain and the other way around. Magnetic chips and

cards can be bought at the counter or the available machines. Rides start from 15 baht and are based

on distance; pre-paid cards of up to 1,000 baht are also available. For single ride fares, a round plastic

token is used. It is electronic: simply wave it by the scanner to enter; deposit it in a slot by the exit

gate leave. Cards can be recharged at the counter with any amount once they are used up. Metro

tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 16

Airport Travel

The public taxi stand is located on Level 1 (Ground Level). The Taxi counters are at Level 1 - Ground

Level, near entrances 3, 4, 7 and 8. Taxi fare: metered taxi fare plus 50 ฿ airport surcharge, and

expressway fees. Public taxis serving Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi airport must be less than 5 years old.

Public taxi drives must be certified by Airports of Thailand. Passenger drop off at Departures (level 4 -

outer curb).

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is a sub-urban train service that takes you directly from Suvarnabhumi

Airport to the city center (directly to Phaya Thai BTS Skytrain station) and vice versa. There are three

services: City Line train, Phaya Thai Express and Makkasan Express.

The City Line trains departs at every 20 minutes and stops at all stations on the way to and from the

airport. The total travel time between Phaya Thai terminal station and the airport is approximately 30

minutes. The maximum fare on this local route is 45 ฿. Phaya Thai Express is a non-stop service

between Phaya Thai station and the airport. Trains depart every 30 minutes and the travel time is 17

minutes. Makkasan Express is another non-stop service between Makkasan City Air Terminal and the

airport. The fare for the two express routes is 90 ฿ each way and 150 ฿ round trip (valid 2 weeks).

Taxis

Taxis are cheap and fares start at 35 ฿. Make sure the meter is on and showing 35 ฿. All taxis are

metered but drivers may try to negotiate a fixed fare with tourists. This is not allowed so leave the taxi

and find another one. There are enough taxis available everywhere. At night time, taxis are the most

convenient, as the Skytrain and Subway do not operate after midnight. Be aware that you can get

stuck in some major traffic jams during morning and evening rush hours, especially on a Friday. The

meter runs on a combination of both distance and time, so the BTS or MRT are always a better bet if it

covers your destination. Taxis are mainly saloon cars with a large part of the trunk (boot) taken up by

a natural gas tank. The colours of the cab indicate which co-op they belong to.

Motorcycle Taxi (Forget it!)

Tuk Tuk

Your Bangkok trip would be incomplete if you did not ride, just once, in a Tuk-Tuk. They do not have

meters and the fare is negotiated. It is not recommended to use them as a normal form of transport as

for tourists a taxi is cheaper, safer, and has air-conditioning! Be aware that around the main tourist

areas, some Tuk-Tuk drivers are not honest and will lead you into a shopping or other type of scam.

Public Buses

There is a huge network of public buses in the city, but little English language route information is

available. Few tourists will opt for local buses when other options are available.

Chao Phrya River Express Boat (See Waterways for further details)

Cultural Do's and Don'ts

What do local Thais see when they see you, a foreign tourist? Knowing this will give you a good starting point for understanding the common ways of dealing with people you meet. Thais see other people as humans

that all fit into one of three 'circles'. The closer the circle is to the individual, the more demands the

other person puts on him or her. The three circles are:

1) Close relations - family members, friends, colleagues - anyone that you deal with on a personal

and everyday basis.

2) Close environs - neighbours, customers in a shop, business partners. “These may all pose a

danger so one must act politely and friendly towards them. So smile a lot when you meet them.”

3) Unknown strangers -short term or one time meetings. “These cannot be trusted. So manipulate

them as much as you can get away with. Better smile, though. It will keep trouble at bay.”

This is overly simplified but still holds a lot of truth. And keeping this in mind will help you understand

why things sometimes work out differently in Thailand. Did the friendly taxi driver overcharge? You

may feel that this makes him a bad person - "a cheat". Not so, he is just good at his job which he after

all holds for the purpose of making money. Did the smiling shop proprietor "rip you off" on that Buddha

figurine? No, it is is worth whatever he can make the customer pay ...

When hailing taxis, it is common to keep your hand horizontal, fingers facing down. Holding your hand

with fingers up is considered rude. The same holds true when calling waiters, or anyone, do so with

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 17

your palm down and fingers straight with an up and down movement. Never clap, snap your fingers, or

whistle. To a Thai this is the way you call for the attention of a dog, not a human.

When visiting temples, dress conservatively (preferred is in white) - women particularly should wear

long skirts or trousers, have their shoulders covered, and should not wear sandals. Many temples

state as you enter that photography is not allowed. Even if there is no sign, please be respectful and

consider whether it is appropriate to be taking flash photography of a place of worship. Also speak

softly when in a temple. Even more so if monks are present worshipping!

Always remove your shoes and hat when entering temples, and do not sit with your feet towards the

Buddha - sit either cross-legged, or with your feet tucked behind you. In many Asian cultures the feet

are considered the lowest, dirtiest part of the body, and the head the highest. Hence do not point at

things with your feet, hold doors open with your feet, point your feet to the Buddha images, point at or

touch peoples' heads, or under any circumstance, touch monks. Women must NEVER make contact

with a monk. If she needs to pass an item to a monk, it must be either passed to another male (not a

monk) first, or placed down for the monk to retrieve himself. There must never be direct contact.

The King and the Royal family are very highly regarded in Thai society, as evidenced by the pictures of

everywhere. Do not say or act disrespectful in any way towards the King or any member the Royal

family, even to the extent of stamping on a coin which has been dropped and is rolling away. All

currency in Thailand bears images of the King or his relatives - and it is insulting to be touched by feet.

In theatres: before the main performance begins the Thai Royal Anthem will be played. It is

REQUIRED that you stand up and remain silent during the playing of the Thai Royal Anthem.

One of the basics of etiquette overlooked by budget travellers is personal hygiene. Thais are fastidious

in their personal hygiene. Thailand is a tropical country and many synthetic fabrics promote odour

building bacteria; showering often is essential and there is no point putting on yesterdays T-shirt. So

show respect and consideration, as no Thai will mention your lack of hygiene; it is not their way.

Throwing things before someone - business cards, money, etc - is considered extremely rude.

Do not expect Thais to adhere to the rules of your own culture. - Thais find it hard to decline a request.

Instead of simply saying "no", they will tell you "Yes, but ...". It is just another way of being polite. As

a whole, Thais try to avoid saying "no" to a request.

For similar reasons, Thais will ‘lie’ about things e.g. if asked direction and they do not know. They will

give false directions to avoid appearing ignorant. If asked if a temple is open or closed, they will not

say they don’t know ... instead they will lie!

Touts in major city are annoying and can be forceful. In this case it is ok to gently push them out of

the way.

Tipping:

There is no mandatory tipping policy in Thailand. However, this does not prevent you from giving a

small gratuity to a service provider for exceptional service or fulfilling special requests.

In taxis both Thai and local ex-patriots alike will commonly “round-up” the final fare to an even

number. As example; your final meter reads a fare of 51฿. You might give the driver 60฿ total. The

resulting “rounding” of 9฿ would be an implied gratuity for the journey. Outside of the capital, you

should negotiate the fare before you get in a taxi.

Most mid-range restaurants and nearly all hotel-restaurants will automatically include a 10% service

charge on all bills. This surcharge acts as your gratuity. These funds are combined and shared among

all employees at the end of the month in addition to their basic monthly wage. At mid and lower-end

restaurants, when paying cash, it is customary to simply leave any coins received as change for the

staff as gratuity. In high-end restaurants, the service charge may be slightly more. If you received

service that was truly exceptional an additional gratuity would be appropriate.

For services such as masseurs and hairdressers a gratuity of 20฿ to 100฿ depending on the individual

situation would be appropriate. Tour guides who provide an exceptional (group) experience could be

recognised with perhaps a 100฿ tip. Tour guides and drivers when taking a private one-on-one service,

and where the experience was exceptional, consider a tip for the driver of around 200฿ - 300฿, and

guide around 400฿ - 500฿.

It is important to remember that the majority of employees in the hospitality and service industries in

Thailand earn a very basic wage. Therefore any gratuities received truly do go long way and will serve

to recognise and reward enthusiastic service.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 18

Outside Bangkok – Ayutthaya, Bang Tain, Khao Yai National Park

Ayutthaya

Just 80 kilometers (50 miles) north of Bangkok is the old capitol of Ayutthaya (or Ayuthaya, or even

Ayodhaya. No matter how you spell it, its pronounced ah-you-tah-ya.) The city became Thailand's

capital in the mid-14th century and remained the capital until the late 18th century. About the time

that Americans were tossing tea into Boston harbor, the Burmese attacked and sacked Ayutthaya.

The Ayutthaya period is looked on by many as the time when much of what is now thought of as "Thai

style" was developed. In temples, this is when you see a marked transition from the Khmer style

"prangs" to the bell shaped "chedi." While Sukothai further north is seen as the birth of the Thai

kingdom, Ayutthaya is seen today as its high point. Around Ayutthaya are signs of the Japanese,

French, Dutch and Portuguese traders that came to the Thai court.

Ayutthaya is a relatively low-key site. You can spend a leisurely day here, or a quick stop, all with

relatively low pressure compared to many other tourist sites. From Ayutthaya you can quickly get on

an expressway and be back in Bangkok in about an hour.

History & Orientation

The old city was founded in 1351 on an

island about 4 kilometres wide, formed by

the confluence of the Chaophraya,

Lopburi and Pasak Rivers. A wall once

encircled the entire island, though only a

few bits of it can be seen today. U Thong,

who later became King Ramathibodi I, is

credited with the city's founding.

The city grew rich on the produce of the

land, as well as by exploiting expanding

trade routes between India and China.

The empire grew to control most of what

is now Thailand, and by the time the first

Europeans arrived in the mid-17th

century, Ayutthaya was a city of more

than a million people -- double the

population of London at the time. The city

sat at the centre of a network of nearly 140 kilometres of canals. This "Golden Age" of Siam came to a

close after little more than 400 years when the Burmese sacked the city, setting fire to the temples,

carting off the gold and levelling important buildings such as the king’s palace.

What remains today are a few ruins scattered among grassy fields. The main sights are concentrated in

the northwest corner of the island, while the modern town hugs the east bank. There are also

numerous other attractions spread around the opposite side of the rivers.

Ayutthaya Sights

The main historical sights lie in the northwest corner of the island. These sights can easily be explored

on foot or, better, bicycle. A number of other very interesting sights can be found on the banks of the

rivers opposite to the city, but these are much more spread out.

The Inner City

In addition to the ruins listed here, the inner city is also home to two or three museums worth a visit.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet: The three bell-shaped chedis of Wat Phra Si Sanphet have practically become a

symbol of Ayutthaya. The temple stands almost in the center of the main area of the old capital.

Wat Phra Ram: Just across the street from Wat Phra Si Sanphet is the towering prang of Wat Phra

Ram, an excellent example of a Khmer style temple from the begining of the Ayutthaya period.

Wat Ratburana: Closer to the current city center, Wat Ratburana was built in 1424 to hold the ashes of

the king's two older brothers, who killed each other fighting over the throne.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 19

Wat Mahathat: The temple was built in the early days of Ayutthaya in the late 14th century by King

Borommaracha I. The story goes that the king had a revelation, and relics of the Buddha then suddenly

appeared. The temple was built to house the relics.

Across the Rivers

To the north, west and south of the island are several temples dating from the city's golden age, or

even before. The remains of the Portuguese and Japanese communities are also just south of the

island, on opposite sides of the Chaophraya River.

Wat Phanan Choeng: On the south side of Ayutthaya, right where the Chaophraya and Pasak rivers

join up, is one of Ayutthaya's oldest temples, and one of its most lively to this day. The huge Buddha

image around which the temple was built was cast in 1324.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkon: At the SE edge of town lies the huge bell-shaped chedi of Wat Ya Chai

Mongkon. The chedi was built in 1592 by one of Ayutthaya's greatest kings, Nareusan the Great, to

commemorate a victory over the Burmese in the same year. The temple itself was established earlier,

in 1357, by King Ramathibodi as a meditation site for monks returning from pilgrimages to Sri Lanka.

Wat Na Phra Mane: This small but interesting temple just north of the royal island has played a very

pivotal role in the history of Ayutthaya.

Wat Phu Khao Thong (The Golden Mount): Out in the plain of rice fields and fish ponds NW of town

rises the stark white chedi of Wat Phu Khao Thong. The name literally translates to "Golden Mount."

Wat Chai Wattanaram: Standing right on the river, Wat Chai Wattanaram is, in our view, one of the

most impressive of the remaining monuments of old Ayutthaya.

Wat Phutthaisawan: Almost due south of the old town, on the south bank of the Chaophraya River, is the very old temple of Wat Phutthaisawan. With its freshly whitewashed classically styled prang, the temple is easy to overlook. Most guidebooks do, but don't you make that mistake. The temple, with its skewed architecture, is quite interesting.

Bang Pa In

A very short drive of 60 kilometres north of Bangkok along the banks of the Chaopraya River will bring

you to Bang Pa In, summer palace of the kings of Thailand. The palace dates back to the 17th century,

pre-dating the establishment of Bangkok as the capitol, although it did fall into disuse for a long

period. All the buildings date from its revival by King Mongkut (Rama IV) in the 19th century. Today,

the palace is only used infrequently, and mostly for state occasions rather than as a royal residence.

The palace is very European in design. The buildings are laid out along an artificial ornamental pond. In

what was formerly the public area of the palace, the lake is a long rectangular pool, lines with formal

plantings and the odd folly.

At the end of this formal entry promenade the pond take on a more natural shape. In this pond you

see what has become the "signature piece" of Bang Pa In. It is an elegant Thai-style pavilion in the

middle of a pond shown above right, with the rather daunting title of "The divine seat of personal

freedom." It is really the only example of classical Thai architecture within the palace and was built by

King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). It now houses a statue of him. The pond also serves to divide the

"public" outer area of the palace from the inner private areas.

Within the inner palace are several buildings in various styles. The main residence is a modern

reconstruction of the original building. Although the original building was said to be in the style of a

Swiss Chalet, the modern building has a more "Paris Metro" art-deco feel to it. Note that the building,

still occasionally used by the royal family, is not open to the public.

Perhaps the most interesting building in the inner complex, and the only one open to the public, is the

Chinese style residence built in China and gifted to King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) by the Chinese

Chamber of Commerce in 1889. You must remove your shoes to enter and enjoy the ebony and red

lacquer interior.

Bang Pa In is one of three royal palaces featured at the Virtual Thai Palaces web site

(http://palaces.thai.net/). This site, sponsored by the Royal Thai Household, is one of the most

interesting Thai web sites.

There is a fee of 50 Baht (1.67 USD) to enter the palace grounds. Hours are 8:30 am to 5:00 pm, but

the ticket office closes at 3:30 pm. Also note that you must exit through the gift shop.

£1 = 48 baht (฿), call it 50 ฿ to the £, or one ฿ = 2p 20

Khao Yai National Park was first established in 1962 and is a World Heritage site, and at 2168

square kilometres this park is also one of the largest in Thailand.

Seasonal evergreen forest is the dominant habitat type here but there are also areas of hill evergreen

forest at higher altitudes and expanses of grassland, particularly near headquarters. An extensive

system of trails means that there is plenty of opportunity to explore these wonderful forests and view

the wildlife. These trails were originally elephant tracks, and Khao Yai remains one of the best places in

South-East Asia to see these fantastic animals and with such an extensive area of quality habitat a

huge number of excellent bird species can be found too. Other highlights are gibbons and hornbills,

there's quite nothing like watching a family of White-handed Gibbons calling out and jumping around

high up in the trees, or hearing the whooshing sound of a Great Hornbill flying over your head. Many

other animals are here, such as sambar deer, macaques, pythons, monitor lizards, more than 300

species of birds, and an amazing variety of colourful insects.

On the down side, this National Park is extremely popular and gets ridiculously busy at weekends and

holidays; camping during these times can be a fairly unpleasant experience so visits should be timed to

avoid these; in fact the park can be quite busy even during the week. It is also a sad fact that there

nearly always seems to be some development project threatening the quality of this location, in the

past these have included a perimeter road, dams and, frequently, tourist development.

[ADVERT] Greenleaf Guesthouse is a great place to enjoy the beauty of Khao Yai National Park and

the relaxing Thai lifestyle. On our tours we take you to explore the tropical forest with our expert

guides. We'll go trekking in the jungle and look for many species of animals that live in the park, such

as gibbons, hornbills, macaques, snakes, wild elephants and many bird species.

Our family-run guesthouse provides clean rooms with private bathroom and fan in a colourful and

relaxing garden setting. While staying with us, you can enjoy the friendly Thai family atmosphere, and

taste a variety of delicious Thai dishes from our kitchen (open throughout the day for breakfast, lunch

and dinner). We have 21 rooms that are clean and comfortable, all with private bathroom and fan. The

room rate is 200-300 Baht per night only.

[On Tripadvsor the place gets very good reviews. Plus points are friendly staff, very clean and good

food. The tours get good reviews as well. The only negatives (3 reviews out of 32) were place is fairly

isolated on the main road, only cold water showers and one did not like the mattress. One person said

it was quite cool in January. See my Tripadvisor review for our experiences.]

“We offer two regular tours, a half day tour that will take you to interesting sites in the area, and a full

day tour in Khao Yai National Park. For bird watchers, we can organize special birding tours (I looked

at these but they are very long, 0600-1900, and much more expensive. As it is my first trip I am

happy just seeing what comes by).

Half-day tour - Starting in the afternoon, we will take you to see the stalagmites and stalactites in an

underground cave, where you will also learn about Buddhist practices and a variety of cave dwelling

creatures. We'll go swimming in a refreshing natural spring, and sunset we'll watch millions of bats

leave their cave in swarms for their night time hunt.

Full-day tour - In the morning we'll go trekking in Khao Yai National Park, enjoying the beauty and

wonders of the forest, and look for animals such as gibbons, hornbills, macaques, reptiles, insects and

many bird species. There are lots of amazing animals in the park, and we know where to look for

them! After a healthy lunch in the outdoors we'll visit the impressive Hew Suwat waterfall, to freshen

up for the last part of the tour, when we'll further explore the park and look for wild elephants.”