Beasts, Men and Gods - Ferdinand Ossendowski

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    he Project Gutenberg EBook of Beasts, Men and Gods,

    erdinand Ossendowski

    his eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no co

    nd with

    lmost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, gi

    t away ore-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg Licen

    ncluded

    ith this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

    itle: Beasts, Men and Gods

    uthor: Ferdinand Ossendowski

    ranslator: Lewis Stanton Palen

    elease Date: May 13, 2006 [EBook #2067]

    ast Updated: February 4, 2013

    anguage: English

    ** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEASTS, MEN A

    ODS ***

    roduced by Donald Lainson; David Widger

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    BEASTS, MEN AND GODS

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    by Ferdinand Ossendowski

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    EXPLANATORY NOTE

    When one of the leading publicists in America, Dr. Albe

    haw of the Review of Reviews, after reading thmanuscript of Part I of this volume, characterized the auth

    s "The Robinson Crusoe of the Twentieth Century," h

    ouched the feature of the narrative which is at once mo

    ttractive and most dangerous; for the succession of tryin

    nd thrilling experiences recorded seems in places toighly colored to be real or, sometimes, even possible

    his day and generation. I desire, therefore, to assure th

    eader at the outset that Dr. Ossendowski is a man of lon

    nd diverse experience as a scientist and writer with

    aining for careful observation which should put the stam

    f accuracy and reliability on his chronicle. Only thxtraordinary events of these extraordinary times cou

    ave thrown one with so many talents back into th

    urroundings of the "Cave Man" and thus given to us th

    nusual account of personal adventure, of great huma

    mysteries and of the political and religious motives whicre energizing the "Heart of Asia."

    My share in the work has been to induce D

    Ossendowski to write his story at this time and to ass

    im in rendering his experiences into English.

    LEWIS STANTON PALEN.

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    CONTENTS

    EXPLANATORY NOTE

    BEASTS, MEN AND GODS

    Part I: DRAWING LOTS WITH

    DEATH

    CHAPTER I

    CHAPTER II

    CHAPTER III

    CHAPTER IVCHAPTER V

    CHAPTER VI

    CHAPTER VII

    CHAPTER VIII

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    CHAPTER IX

    CHAPTER X

    CHAPTER XI

    CHAPTER XII

    CHAPTER XIII

    CHAPTER XIV

    CHAPTER XV

    CHAPTER XVI

    Part II: THE LAND OF DEMONS

    CHAPTER XVII

    CHAPTER XVIII

    CHAPTER XIX

    CHAPTER XX

    CHAPTER XXI

    CHAPTER XXII

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    CHAPTER XXIII

    CHAPTER XXIV

    CHAPTER XXV

    CHAPTER XXVI

    CHAPTER XXVII

    CHAPTER XXVIII

    Part III: THE STRAINING HEART OF

    ASIA

    CHAPTER XXIX

    CHAPTER XXX

    CHAPTER XXXI

    CHAPTER XXXII

    CHAPTER XXXIII

    CHAPTER XXXIV

    CHAPTER XXXV

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    CHAPTER XXXVI

    CHAPTER XXXVII

    CHAPTER XXXVIII

    CHAPTER XXXIX

    Part IV: THE LIVING BUDDHA

    CHAPTER XL

    CHAPTER XLI

    CHAPTER XLII

    CHAPTER XLIII

    CHAPTER XLIV

    CHAPTER XLV

    Part V: MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES

    THE KING OF THE WORLD

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    CHAPTER XLVI

    CHAPTER XLVII

    CHAPTER XLVIII

    CHAPTER XLIX

    GLOSSARY

    There are times, men and events aboutwhich History alone can record the final

    judgments; contemporaries and individual

    observers must only write what they have seen

    and heard. The very truth demands it.

    TITUS LIVIUS.

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    BEASTS, MEN AND GODS

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    Part I

    DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH

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    CHAPTER I

    INTO THE FORESTS

    In the beginning of the year 1920 I happened to be livin

    n the Siberian town of Krasnoyarsk, situated on the shore

    f the River Yenisei, that noble stream which is cradled

    he sun-bathed mountains of Mongolia to pour its warmin

    fe into the Arctic Ocean and to whose mouth Nansen hawice come to open the shortest road for commerce fro

    urope to the heart of Asia. There in the depths of the s

    iberian winter I was suddenly caught up in the whirlin

    torm of mad revolution raging all over Russia, sowing

    his peaceful and rich land vengeance, hate, bloodshed anrimes that go unpunished by the law. No one could tell th

    our of his fate. The people lived from day to day and le

    heir homes not knowing whether they should return to the

    r whether they should be dragged from the streets an

    hrown into the dungeons of that travesty of courts, th

    Revolutionary Committee, more terrible and more bloodhan those of the Mediaeval Inquisition. We who we

    trangers in this distraught land were not saved from

    ersecutions and I personally lived through them.

    One morning, when I had gone out to see a friend

    uddenly received the news that twenty Red soldiers haurrounded my house to arrest me and that I must escape

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    uickly put on one of my friend's old hunting suits, too

    ome money and hurried away on foot along the back wa

    f the town till I struck the open road, where I engaged

    easant, who in four hours had driven me twenty miles fro

    he town and set me down in the midst of a deeply foreste

    egion. On the way I bought a rifle, three hundreartridges, an ax, a knife, a sheepskin overcoat, tea, sa

    ry bread and a kettle. I penetrated into the heart of th

    wood to an abandoned half-burned hut. From this day

    ecame a genuine trapper but I never dreamed that

    hould follow this role as long as I did. The next morning

    went hunting and had the good fortune to kill two heathcoc

    found deer tracks in plenty and felt sure that I should n

    want for food. However, my sojourn in this place was not fo

    ong. Five days later when I returned from hunting I notice

    moke curling up out of the chimney of my hut. I stealth

    rept along closer to the cabin and discovered two saddleorses with soldiers' rifles slung to the saddles. Tw

    isarmed men were not dangerous for me with a weapo

    o I quickly rushed across the open and entered the hu

    rom the bench two soldiers started up in fright. They we

    olsheviki. On their big Astrakhan caps I made out the re

    tars of Bolshevism and on their blouses the dirty re

    ands. We greeted each other and sat down. The soldie

    ad already prepared tea and so we drank this ev

    welcome hot beverage and chatted, suspiciously eyein

    ne another the while. To disarm this suspicion on the

    art, I told them that I was a hunter from a distant place anwas living there because I found it good country for sable

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    hey announced to me that they were soldiers of

    etachment sent from a town into the woods to pursue a

    uspicious people.

    "Do you understand, 'Comrade,'" said one of them to m

    we are looking for counter-revolutionists to shoot them?"

    I knew it without his explanations. All my forces we

    irected to assuring them by my conduct that I was a simp

    easant hunter and that I had nothing in common with th

    ounter-revolutionists. I was thinking also all the time

    where I should go after the departure of my unwelcom

    uests. It grew dark. In the darkness their faces were eveess attractive. They took out bottles of vodka and dran

    nd the alcohol began to act very noticeably. They talke

    oudly and constantly interrupted each other, boasting ho

    many bourgeoisie they had killed in Krasnoyarsk and ho

    many Cossacks they had slid under the ice in the rive

    Afterwards they began to quarrel but soon they were tire

    nd prepared to sleep. All of a sudden and without an

    warning the door of the hut swung wide open and the stea

    f the heated room rolled out in a great cloud, out of whic

    eemed to rise like a genie, as the steam settled, the figu

    f a tall, gaunt peasant impressively crowned with the higAstrakhan cap and wrapped in the great sheepsk

    vercoat that added to the massiveness of his figure. H

    tood with his rifle ready to fire. Under his girdle lay th

    harp ax without which the Siberian peasant cannot exis

    yes, quick and glimmering like those of a wild beast, fixe

    hemselves alternately on each of us. In a moment he too

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    ff his cap, made the sign of the cross on his breast an

    sked of us: "Who is the master here?"

    I answered him.

    "May I stop the night?"

    "Yes," I replied, "places enough for all. Take a cup of teais still hot."

    The stranger, running his eyes constantly over all of u

    nd over everything about the room, began to take off h

    kin coat after putting his rifle in the corner. He wa

    ressed in an old leather blouse with trousers of the sam

    material tucked in high felt boots. His face was quite younne and tinged with something akin to mockery. His whit

    harp teeth glimmered as his eyes penetrated everythin

    hey rested upon. I noticed the locks of grey in his shagg

    ead. Lines of bitterness circled his mouth. They showe

    is life had been very stormy and full of danger. He took eat beside his rifle and laid his ax on the floor below.

    "What? Is it your wife?" asked one of the drunke

    oldiers, pointing to the ax.

    The tall peasant looked calmly at him from the quiet eye

    nder their heavy brows and as calmly answered:"One meets a different folk these days and with an ax it

    much safer."

    He began to drink tea very greedily, while his eye

    ooked at me many times with sharp inquiry in them and ra

    ften round the whole cabin in search of the answer to houbts. Very slowly and with a guarded drawl he answere

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    ll the questions of the soldiers between gulps of the h

    ea, then he turned his glass upside down as evidence

    aving finished, placed on the top of it the small lump

    ugar left and remarked to the soldiers:

    "I am going out to look after my horse and will unsadd

    our horses for you also."

    "All right," exclaimed the half-sleeping young soldie

    bring in our rifles as well."

    The soldiers were lying on the benches and thus left f

    s only the floor. The stranger soon came back, brought th

    fles and set them in the dark corner. He dropped thaddle pads on the floor, sat down on them and began

    ake off his boots. The soldiers and my guest soon we

    noring but I did not sleep for thinking of what next to d

    inally as dawn was breaking, I dozed off only to awake

    he broad daylight and find my stranger gone. I went outsidhe hut and discovered him saddling a fine bay stallion.

    "Are you going away?" I asked.

    "Yes, but I want to go together with these

    omrades,'" he whispered, "and afterwards I shall com

    ack."

    I did not ask him anything further and told him only tha

    would wait for him. He took off the bags that had bee

    anging on his saddle, put them away out of sight in th

    urned corner of the cabin, looked over the stirrups an

    ridle and, as he finished saddling, smiled and said:

    "I am ready. I'm going to awake my 'comrades.'" Half a

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    our after the morning drink of tea, my three guests too

    heir leave. I remained out of doors and was engaged

    plitting wood for my stove. Suddenly, from a distance, rif

    hots rang through the woods, first one, then a secon

    Afterwards all was still. From the place near the shots

    ightened covey of blackcock broke and came over me. Ahe top of a high pine a jay cried out. I listened for a lon

    me to see if anyone was approaching my hut b

    verything was still.

    On the lower Yenisei it grows dark very early. I built a fir

    n my stove and began to cook my soup, constantstening for every noise that came from beyond the cab

    walls. Certainly I understood at all times very clearly th

    eath was ever beside me and might claim me by mean

    f either man, beast, cold, accident or disease. I knew th

    obody was near me to assist and that all my help was

    he hands of God, in the power of my hands and feet, in thccuracy of my aim and in my presence of mind. However

    stened in vain. I did not notice the return of my strange

    ike yesterday he appeared all at once on the threshol

    hrough the steam I made out his laughing eyes and h

    ne face. He stepped into the hut and dropped with a gooeal of noise three rifles into the corner.

    "Two horses, two rifles, two saddles, two boxes of d

    read, half a brick of tea, a small bag of salt, fif

    artridges, two overcoats, two pairs of boots," laughingly h

    ounted out. "In truth today I had a very successful hunt."

    In astonishment I looked at him.

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    "What are you surprised at?" he laughed. "Komu nujny e

    ovarischi? Who's got any use for these fellows? Let u

    ave tea and go to sleep. Tomorrow I will guide you t

    nother safer place and then go on."

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    CHAPTER II

    THE SECRET OF MY FELLOWTRAVELER

    At the dawn of day we started forth, leaving my first plac

    f refuge. Into the bags we packed our personal estate an

    astened them on one of the saddles.

    "We must go four or five hundred versts," very calm

    nnounced my fellow traveler, who called himself "Ivan,"

    ame that meant nothing to my mind or heart in this lan

    where every second man bore the same.

    "We shall travel then for a very long time," I remarke

    egretfully.

    "Not more than one week, perhaps even less," h

    nswered.

    That night we spent in the woods under the wid

    preading branches of the fir trees. It was my first night

    he forest under the open sky. How many like this I waestined to spend in the year and a half of my wandering

    During the day there was very sharp cold. Under the hoo

    f the horses the frozen snow crunched and the balls th

    ormed and broke from their hoofs rolled away over th

    rust with a sound like crackling glass. The heathcock fleom the trees very idly, hares loped slowly down the bed

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    f summer streams. At night the wind began to sigh an

    whistle as it bent the tops of the trees over our heads; whi

    elow it was still and calm. We stopped in a deep ravin

    ordered by heavy trees, where we found fallen firs, c

    hem into logs for the fire and, after having boiled our te

    ined.Ivan dragged in two tree trunks, squared them on on

    ide with his ax, laid one on the other with the square

    aces together and then drove in a big wedge at the bu

    nds which separated them three or four inches. Then w

    laced live coals in this opening and watched the fire ruapidly the whole length of the squared faces vis-a-vis.

    "Now there will be a fire in the morning," he announce

    This is the 'naida' of the gold prospectors. We prospecto

    wandering in the woods summer and winter always slee

    eside this 'naida.' Fine! You shall see for yourself," h

    ontinued.

    He cut fir branches and made a sloping roof out of them

    esting it on two uprights toward the naida. Above our ro

    f boughs and our naida spread the branches of protectin

    r. More branches were brought and spread on the sno

    nder the roof, on these were placed the saddle cloths anogether they made a seat for Ivan to rest on and to take o

    is outer garments down to his blouse. Soon I noticed h

    orehead was wet with perspiration and that he was wipin

    and his neck on his sleeves.

    "Now it is good and warm!" he exclaimed.In a short time I was also forced to take off my overco

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    nd soon lay down to sleep without any covering at a

    while through the branches of the fir trees and our ro

    limmered the cold bright stars and just beyond the naid

    aged a stinging cold, from which we were cosily defende

    After this night I was no longer frightened by the col

    rozen during the days on horseback, I was thoroughwarmed through by the genial naida at night and reste

    om my heavy overcoat, sitting only in my blouse under th

    oofs of pine and fir and sipping the ever welcome tea.

    During our daily treks Ivan related to me the stories of h

    wanderings through the mountains and woods ransbaikalia in the search for gold. These stories we

    ery lively, full of attractive adventure, danger and struggl

    van was a type of these prospectors who have discovere

    n Russia, and perhaps in other countries, the richest go

    mines, while they themselves remain beggars. He evade

    elling me why he left Transbaikalia to come to the Yeniseinderstood from his manner that he wished to keep his ow

    ounsel and so did not press him. However, the blanket

    ecrecy covering this part of his mysterious life was on

    ay quite fortuitously lifted a bit. We were already at th

    bjective point of our trip. The whole day we had travelewith difficulty through a thick growth of willow, approachin

    he shore of the big right branch of the Yenisei, the Man

    verywhere we saw runways packed hard by the feet of th

    ares living in this bush. These small white denizens of th

    wood ran to and fro in front of us. Another time we saw th

    ed tail of a fox hiding behind a rock, watching us and th

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    nsuspecting hares at the same time.

    Ivan had been silent for a long while. Then he spoke u

    nd told me that not far from there was a small branch

    he Mana, at the mouth of which was a hut.

    "What do you say? Shall we push on there or spend th

    ight by the naida?"

    I suggested going to the hut, because I wanted to was

    nd because it would be agreeable to spend the nig

    nder a genuine roof again. Ivan knitted his brows b

    cceded.

    It was growing dark when we approached a hurrounded by the dense wood and wild raspberry bushe

    contained one small room with two microscopic window

    nd a gigantic Russian stove. Against the building were th

    emains of a shed and a cellar. We fired the stove an

    repared our modest dinner. Ivan drank from the bottnherited from the soldiers and in a short time was ve

    loquent, with brilliant eyes and with hands that course

    equently and rapidly through his long locks. He bega

    elating to me the story of one of his adventures, b

    uddenly stopped and, with fear in his eyes, squinted into

    ark corner.

    "Is it a rat?" he asked.

    "I did not see anything," I replied.

    He again became silent and reflected with knitted brow

    Often we were silent through long hours and consequently

    was not astonished. Ivan leaned over near to me an

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    egan to whisper.

    "I want to tell you an old story. I had a friend

    ransbaikalia. He was a banished convict. His name wa

    Gavronsky. Through many woods and over many mountain

    we traveled in search of gold and we had an agreement

    ivide all we got into even shares. But Gavronsky suddenwent out to the 'Taiga' on the Yenisei and disappeared

    After five years we heard that he had found a very rich go

    mine and had become a rich man; then later that he and h

    wife with him had been murdered. . . ." Ivan was still for

    moment and then continued:"This is their old hut. Here he lived with his wife an

    omewhere on this river he took out his gold. But he to

    obody where. All the peasants around here know that h

    ad a lot of money in the bank and that he had been sellin

    old to the Government. Here they were murdered."

    Ivan stepped to the stove, took out a flaming stick an

    ending over, lighted a spot on the floor.

    "Do you see these spots on the floor and on the wall? It

    heir blood, the blood of Gavronsky. They died but they d

    ot disclose the whereabouts of the gold. It was taken out

    deep hole which they had drifted into the bank of the rivnd was hidden in the cellar under the shed. But Gavrons

    ave nothing away. . . . AND LORD HOW I TORTURE

    HEM! I burned them with fire; I bent back their fingers

    ouged out their eyes; but Gavronsky died in silence."

    He thought for a moment, then quickly said to me:

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    "I have heard all this from the peasants." He threw the lo

    nto the stove and flopped down on the bench. "It's time

    leep," he snapped out, and was still.

    I listened for a long time to his breathing and h

    whispering to himself, as he turned from one side to th

    ther and smoked his pipe.

    In the morning we left this scene of so much suffering an

    rime and on the seventh day of our journey we came to th

    ense cedar wood growing on the foothills of a long cha

    f mountains.

    "From here," Ivan explained to me, "it is eighty versts he next peasant settlement. The people come to thes

    woods to gather cedar nuts but only in the autumn. Befo

    hen you will not meet anyone. Also you will find many bird

    nd beasts and a plentiful supply of nuts, so that it will b

    ossible for you to live here. Do you see this river? Wheou want to find the peasants, follow along this stream an

    will guide you to them."

    Ivan helped me build my mud hut. But it was not th

    enuine mud hut. It was one formed by the tearing out of th

    oots of a great cedar, that had probably fallen in some wi

    torm, which made for me the deep hole as the room for mouse and flanked this on one side with a wall of mud he

    ast among the upturned roots. Overhanging ones forme

    lso the framework into which we interlaced the poles an

    ranches to make a roof, finished off with stones f

    tability and snow for warmth. The front of the hut was evpen but was constantly protected by the guardian naida.

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    hat snow-covered den I spent two months like summ

    without seeing any other human being and without touc

    with the outer world where such important events we

    anspiring. In that grave under the roots of the fallen tree

    ved before the face of nature with my trials and my anxie

    bout my family as my constant companions, and in thard struggle for my life. Ivan went off the second da

    eaving for me a bag of dry bread and a little sugar. I nev

    aw him again.

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    CHAPTER III

    THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE

    Then I was alone. Around me only the wood of eterna

    reen cedars covered with snow, the bare bushes, th

    ozen river and, as far as I could see out through th

    ranches and the trunks of the trees, only the great ocea

    f cedars and snow. Siberian taiga! How long shall I borced to live here? Will the Bolsheviki find me here or no

    Will my friends know where I am? What is happening to m

    amily? These questions were constantly as burning fires

    my brain. Soon I understood why Ivan guided me so lon

    We passed many secluded places on the journey, far awaom all people, where Ivan could have safely left me but h

    lways said that he would take me to a place where

    would be easier to live. And it was so. The charm of m

    one refuge was in the cedar wood and in the mountain

    overed with these forests which stretched to every horizo

    he cedar is a splendid, powerful tree with wide-spreadinranches, an eternally green tent, attracting to its shelt

    very living being. Among the cedars was alway

    ffervescent life. There the squirrels were continua

    icking up a row, jumping from tree to tree; the nut-jobbe

    ried shrilly; a flock of bullfinches with carmine breaswept through the trees like a flame; or a small army

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    oldfinches broke in and filled the amphitheatre of tree

    with their whistling; a hare scooted from one tree trunk

    nother and behind him stole up the hardly visible shado

    f a white ermine, crawling on the snow, and I watched for

    ong time the black spot which I knew to be the tip of his ta

    arefully treading the hard crusted snow approached oble deer; at last there visited me from the top of th

    mountain the king of the Siberian forest, the brown bear. A

    his distracted me and carried away the black though

    om my brain, encouraging me to persevere. It was goo

    or me also, though difficult, to climb to the top of m

    mountain, which reached up out of the forest and fro

    which I could look away to the range of red on the horizon.

    was the red cliff on the farther bank of the Yenisei. There la

    he country, the towns, the enemies and the friends; an

    here was even the point which I located as the place of m

    amily. It was the reason why Ivan had guided me here. Ans the days in this solitude slipped by I began to mis

    orely this companion who, though the murderer

    Gavronsky, had taken care of me like a father, alway

    addling my horse for me, cutting the wood and doin

    verything to make me comfortable. He had spent man

    winters alone with nothing except his thoughts, face to fac

    with natureI should say, before the face of God. He ha

    ied the horrors of solitude and had acquired facility

    earing them. I thought sometimes, if I had to meet my en

    n this place, that I would spend my last strength to dra

    myself to the top of the mountain to die there, looking awaver the infinite sea of mountains and forest toward th

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    oint where my loved ones were.

    However, the same life gave me much matter f

    eflection and yet more occupation for the physical side.

    was a continuous struggle for existence, hard and sever

    he hardest work was the preparation of the big logs for th

    aida. The fallen trunks of the trees were covered with snond frozen to the ground. I was forced to dig them out an

    fterwards, with the help of a long stick as a lever, to mov

    hem from their place. For facilitating this work I chose th

    mountain for my supplies, where, although difficult to clim

    was easy to roll the logs down. Soon I made a splendiscovery. I found near my den a great quantity of larch, th

    eautiful yet sad forest giant, fallen during a big storm. Th

    unks were covered with snow but remained attached

    heir stumps, where they had broken off. When I cut in

    hese stumps with the ax, the head buried itself and cou

    with difficulty be drawn and, investigating the reason,ound them filled with pitch. Chips of this wood needed on

    spark to set them aflame and ever afterward I always ha

    stock of them to light up quickly for warming my hands o

    eturning from the hunt or for boiling my tea.

    The greater part of my days was occupied with the huntame to understand that I must distribute my work ov

    very day, for it distracted me from my sad and depressin

    houghts. Generally, after my morning tea, I went into th

    orest to seek heathcock or blackcock. After killing one

    wo I began to prepare my dinner, which never had a

    xtensive menu. It was constantly game soup with a handf

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    f dried bread and afterwards endless cups of tea, th

    ssential beverage of the woods. Once, during my searc

    or birds, I heard a rustle in the dense shrubs and, carefu

    eering about, I discovered the points of a deer's horns

    rawled along toward the spot but the watchful anim

    eard my approach. With a great noise he rushed from thush and I saw him very clearly, after he had run about thre

    undred steps, stop on the slope of the mountain. It was

    plendid animal with dark grey coat, with almost a blac

    pine and as large as a small cow. I laid my rifle across

    ranch and fired. The animal made a great leap, ra

    everal steps and fell. With all my strength I ran to him b

    e got up again and half jumped, half dragged himself u

    he mountain. The second shot stopped him. I had won

    warm carpet for my den and a large stock of meat. Th

    orns I fastened up among the branches of my wall, whe

    hey made a fine hat rack.I cannot forget one very interesting but wild picture, whic

    was staged for me several kilometres from my den. The

    was a small swamp covered with grass and cranberrie

    cattered through it, where the blackcock and san

    artridges usually came to feed on the berries. pproached noiselessly behind the bushes and saw

    whole flock of blackcock scratching in the snow and pickin

    ut the berries. While I was surveying this scene, sudden

    ne of the blackcock jumped up and the rest of th

    ightened flock immediately flew away. To m

    stonishment the first bird began going straight up in

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    piral flight and afterwards dropped directly down dea

    When I approached there sprang from the body of the sla

    ock a rapacious ermine that hid under the trunk of a falle

    ee. The bird's neck was badly torn. I then understood th

    he ermine had charged the cock, fastened itself on h

    eck and had been carried by the bird into the air, as hucked the blood from its throat, and had been the cause

    he heavy fall back to the earth. Thanks to his aeronaut

    bility I saved one cartridge.

    So I lived fighting for the morrow and more and mo

    oisoned by hard and bitter thoughts. The days and weekassed and soon I felt the breath of warmer winds. On th

    pen places the snow began to thaw. In spots the litt

    vulets of water appeared. Another day I saw a fly or

    pider awakened after the hard winter. The spring wa

    oming. I realized that in spring it was impossible to go o

    om the forest. Every river overflowed its banks; thwamps became impassable; all the runways of th

    nimals turned into beds for streams of running water

    nderstood that until summer I was condemned to

    ontinuation of my solitude. Spring very quickly came in

    er rights and soon my mountain was free from snow anwas covered only with stones, the trunks of birch and aspe

    ees and the high cones of ant hills; the river in place

    roke its covering of ice and was coursing full with foa

    nd bubbles.

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    CHAPTER IV

    A FISHERMAN

    One day during the hunt, I approached the bank of th

    ver and noticed many very large fish with red backs, a

    hough filled with blood. They were swimming on th

    urface enjoying the rays of the sun. When the river wa

    ntirely free from ice, these fish appeared in enormouuantities. Soon I realized that they were working u

    tream for the spawning season in the smaller rivers

    hought to use a plundering method of catching, forbidde

    y the law of all countries; but all the lawyers and legislato

    hould be lenient to one who lives in a den under the roof a fallen tree and dares to break their rational laws.

    Gathering many thin birch and aspen trees I built in th

    ed of the stream a weir which the fish could not pass an

    oon I found them trying to jump over it. Near the bank I le

    hole in my barrier about eighteen inches below th

    urface and fastened on the up-stream side a high basklaited from soft willow twigs, into which the fish came a

    hey passed the hole. Then I stood cruelly by and hit the

    n the head with a strong stick. All my catch were over thir

    ounds, some more than eighty. This variety of fish is calle

    he taimen, is of the trout family and is the best in thYenisei.

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    After two weeks the fish had passed and my basket gav

    me no more treasure, so I began anew the hunt.

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    CHAPTER V

    A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR

    The hunt became more and more profitable an

    njoyable, as spring animated everything. In the morning

    he break of day the forest was full of voices, strange an

    ndiscernible to the inhabitant of the town. There th

    eathcock clucked and sang his song of love, as he sat ohe top branches of the cedar and admired the grey he

    cratching in the fallen leaves below. It was very easy

    pproach this full-feathered Caruso and with a shot to brin

    im down from his more poetic to his more utilitaria

    uties. His going out was an euthanasia, for he was in lovnd heard nothing. Out in the clearing the blackcocks w

    heir wide-spread spotted tails were fighting, while the hen

    trutting near, craning and chattering, probably som

    ossip about their fighting swains, watched and we

    elighted with them. From the distance flowed in a ste

    nd deep roar, yet full of tenderness and love, the matinall of the deer; while from the crags above came down th

    hort and broken voice of the mountain buck. Among th

    ushes frolicked the hares and often near them a red fo

    ay flattened to the ground watching his chance. I nev

    eard any wolves and they are usually not found in thiberian regions covered with mountains and forest.

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    But there was another beast, who was my neighbor, an

    ne of us had to go away. One day, coming back from th

    unt with a big heathcock, I suddenly noticed among th

    ees a black, moving mass. I stopped and, looking ve

    ttentively, saw a bear, digging away at an ant-hill. Smellin

    me, he snorted violently, and very quickly shuffled awastonishing me with the speed of his clumsy gait. Th

    ollowing morning, while still lying under my overcoat, I wa

    ttracted by a noise behind my den. I peered out ve

    arefully and discovered the bear. He stood on his hin

    egs and was noisily sniffing, investigating the question a

    o what living creature had adopted the custom of the bea

    f housing during the winter under the trunks of fallen trees

    houted and struck my kettle with the ax. My early visit

    made off with all his energy; but his visit did not please m

    was very early in the spring that this occurred and th

    ear should not yet have left his hibernating place. He wahe so-called "ant-eater," an abnormal type of bear lackin

    n all the etiquette of the first families of the bear clan.

    I knew that the "ant-eaters" were very irritable an

    udacious and quickly I prepared myself for both th

    efence and the charge. My preparations were short.ubbed off the ends of five of my cartridges, thus makin

    um-dums out of them, a sufficiently intelligible argume

    or so unwelcome a guest. Putting on my coat I went to th

    lace where I had first met the bear and where there we

    many ant-hills. I made a detour of the whole mountai

    ooked in all the ravines but nowhere found my calle

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    Disappointed and tired, I was approaching my shelter qui

    ff my guard when I suddenly discovered the king of th

    orest himself just coming out of my lowly dwelling an

    niffing all around the entrance to it. I shot. The bull

    ierced his side. He roared with pain and anger and stoo

    p on his hind legs. As the second bullet broke one hese, he squatted down but immediately, dragging the le

    nd endeavoring to stand upright, moved to attack me. On

    he third bullet in his breast stopped him. He weighed abo

    wo hundred to two hundred fifty pounds, as near as I cou

    uess, and was very tasty. He appeared at his best

    utlets but only a little less wonderful in the Hamburg steak

    which I rolled and roasted on hot stones, watching the

    well out into great balls that were as light as the fine

    ouffle omelettes we used to have at the "Medved"

    etrograd. On this welcome addition to my larder I live

    om then until the ground dried out and the stream raown enough so that I could travel down along the river

    he country whither Ivan had directed me.

    Ever traveling with the greatest precautions I made th

    ourney down along the river on foot, carrying from m

    winter quarters all my household furniture and goodwrapped up in the deerskin bag which I formed by tying th

    egs together in an awkward knot; and thus laden fordin

    he small streams and wading through the swamps that la

    cross my path. After fifty odd miles of this I came to th

    ountry called Sifkova, where I found the cabin of a peasa

    amed Tropoff, located closest to the forest that came

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    e my natural environment. With him I lived for a time.

    Now in these unimaginable surroundings of safety an

    eace, summing up the total of my experience in th

    iberian taiga, I make the following deductions. In eve

    ealthy spiritual individual of our times, occasions ecessity resurrect the traits of primitive man, hunter an

    warrior, and help him in the struggle with nature. It is th

    rerogative of the man with the trained mind and spirit ov

    he untrained, who does not possess sufficient science an

    will power to carry him through. But the price that th

    ultured man must pay is that for him there exists nothin

    more awful than absolute solitude and the knowledge

    omplete isolation from human society and the life of mor

    nd aesthetic culture. One step, one moment of weaknes

    nd dark madness will seize a man and carry him

    nevitable destruction. I spent awful days of struggle with thold and hunger but I passed more terrible days in th

    truggle of the will to kill weakening destructive thought

    he memories of these days freeze my heart and mind an

    ven now, as I revive them so clearly by writing of m

    xperiences, they throw me back into a state of fear an

    pprehension. Moreover, I am compelled to observe th

    he people in highly civilized states give too little regard

    he training that is useful to man in primitive conditions,

    onditions incident to the struggle against nature f

    xistence. It is the single normal way to develop a ne

    eneration of strong, healthy, iron men, with at the samme sensitive souls.

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    Nature destroys the weak but helps the stron

    wakening in the soul emotions which remain dorma

    nder the urban conditions of modern life.

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    CHAPTER VI

    A RIVER IN TRAVAIL

    My presence in the Sifkova country was not for long bu

    sed it in full measure. First, I sent a man in whom I ha

    onfidence and whom I considered trustworthy to m

    iends in the town that I had left and received from the

    nen, boots, money and a small case of first aid materiand essential medicines, and, what was most important,

    assport in another name, since I was dead for th

    olsheviki. Secondly, in these more or less favorab

    onditions I reflected upon the plan for my future action

    oon in Sifkova the people heard that the Bolshevommissar would come for the requisition of cattle for th

    Red Army. It was dangerous to remain longer. I waited on

    ntil the Yenisei should lose its massive lock of ice, whic

    ept it sealed long after the small rivulets had opened an

    he trees had taken on their spring foliage. For on

    housand roubles I engaged a fisherman who agreed ake me fifty-five miles up the river to an abandoned go

    mine as soon as the river, which had then only opened

    laces, should be entirely clear of ice. At last one morning

    eard a deafening roar like a tremendous cannonade an

    an out to find the river had lifted its great bulk of ice anhen given way to break it up. I rushed on down to the ban

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    where I witnessed an awe-inspiring but magnificent scen

    he river had brought down the great volume of ice that ha

    een dislodged in the south and was carrying it northwa

    nder the thick layer which still covered parts of the strea

    ntil finally its weight had broken the winter dam to the nor

    nd released the whole grand mass in one last rush for thArctic. The Yenisei, "Father Yenisei," "Hero Yenisei," is on

    f the longest rivers in Asia, deep and magnificen

    specially through the middle range of its course, where

    s flanked and held in canyon-like by great towering range

    he huge stream had brought down whole miles of ic

    elds, breaking them up on the rapids and on isolate

    ocks, twisting them with angry swirls, throwing up section

    f the black winter roads, carrying down the tepees built f

    he use of passing caravans which in the Winter always g

    om Minnusinsk to Krasnoyarsk on the frozen river. Fro

    me to time the stream stopped in its flow, the roar begand the great fields of ice were squeezed and pile

    pward, sometimes as high as thirty feet, damming up th

    water behind, so that it rapidly rose and ran out over the lo

    laces, casting on the shore great masses of ice. Then th

    ower of the reinforced waters conquered the towerin

    am of ice and carried it downward with a sound lik

    reaking glass. At the bends in the river and round th

    reat rocks developed terrifying chaos. Huge blocks of ic

    ammed and jostled until some were thrown clear into th

    ir, crashing against others already there, or were hurle

    gainst the curving cliffs and banks, tearing out boulderarth and trees high up the sides. All along the lo

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    mbankments this giant of nature flung upward with

    uddenness that leaves man but a pigmy in force a gre

    wall of ice fifteen to twenty feet high, which the peasants c

    Zaberega" and through which they cannot get to the riv

    without cutting out a road. One incredible feat I saw th

    iant perform, when a block many feet thick and manards square was hurled through the air and dropped

    rush saplings and little trees more than a half hundred fe

    om the bank.

    Watching this glorious withdrawal of the ice, I was fille

    with terror and revolt at seeing the awful spoils which thYenisei bore away in this annual retreat. These were th

    odies of the executed counter-revolutionariesofficer

    oldiers and Cossacks of the former army of the Superi

    Governor of all anti-Bolshevik Russia, Admiral Kolcha

    hey were the results of the bloody work of the "Cheka"

    Minnusinsk. Hundreds of these bodies with heads anands cut off, with mutilated faces and bodies half burne

    with broken skulls, floated and mingled with the blocks

    ce, looking for their graves; or, turning in the furiou

    whirlpools among the jagged blocks, they were ground an

    orn to pieces into shapeless masses, which the riveauseated with its task, vomited out upon the islands an

    rojecting sand bars. I passed the whole length of th

    middle Yenisei and constantly came across these putrifyin

    nd terrifying reminders of the work of the Bolsheviki. In on

    lace at a turn of the river I saw a great heap of horse

    which had been cast up by the ice and current, in numb

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    ot less than three hundred. A verst below there I wa

    ickened beyond endurance by the discovery of a grove

    willows along the bank which had raked from the pollute

    tream and held in their finger-like drooping branche

    uman bodies in all shapes and attitudes with a semblanc

    f naturalness which made an everlasting picture on mistraught mind. Of this pitiful gruesome company I counte

    eventy.

    At last the mountain of ice passed by, followed by th

    muddy freshets that carried down the trunks of fallen tree

    ogs and bodies, bodies, bodies. The fisherman and hon put me and my luggage into their dugout made from a

    spen tree and poled upstream along the bank. Poling in

    wift current is very hard work. At the sharp curves we we

    ompelled to row, struggling against the force of the strea

    nd even in places hugging the cliffs and making headwa

    nly by clutching the rocks with our hands and dragginlong slowly. Sometimes it took us a long while to do five

    x metres through these rapid holes. In two days w

    eached the goal of our journey. I spent several days in th

    old mine, where the watchman and his family were livin

    As they were short of food, they had nothing to spare for mnd consequently my rifle again served to nourish me, a

    well as contributing something to my hosts. One day the

    ppeared here a trained agriculturalist. I did not hid

    ecause during my winter in the woods I had raised

    eavy beard, so that probably my own mother could n

    ave recognized me. However, our guest was very shrew

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    nd at once deciphered me. I did not fear him because

    aw that he was not a Bolshevik and later had confirmatio

    f this. We found common acquaintances and a commo

    iewpoint on current events. He lived close to the gold min

    n a small village where he superintended public works. W

    etermined to escape together from Russia. For a lonme I had puzzled over this matter and now my plan wa

    eady. Knowing the position in Siberia and its geography

    ecided that the best way to safety was through Urianha

    he northern part of Mongolia on the head waters of th

    Yenisei, then through Mongolia and out to the Far East an

    he Pacific. Before the overthrow of the Kolcha

    Government I had received a commission to investiga

    Urianhai and Western Mongolia and then, with gre

    ccuracy, I studied all the maps and literature I could get o

    his question. To accomplish this audacious plan I had th

    reat incentive of my own safety.

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    CHAPTER VII

    THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA

    After several days we started through the forest on th

    eft bank of the Yenisei toward the south, avoiding th

    llages as much as possible in fear of leaving some trail

    which we might be followed. Whenever we did have to g

    nto them, we had a good reception at the hands of theasants, who did not penetrate our disguise; and we sa

    hat they hated the Bolsheviki, who had destroyed many

    heir villages. In one place we were told that a detachme

    f Red troops had been sent out from Minnusinsk to chas

    he Whites. We were forced to work far back from the shof the Yenisei and to hide in the woods and mountain

    Here we remained nearly a fortnight, because all this tim

    he Red soldiers were traversing the country and capturin

    n the woods half-dressed unarmed officers who were

    iding from the atrocious vengeance of the Bolshevi

    Afterwards by accident we passed a meadow where wound the bodies of twenty-eight officers hung to the tree

    with their faces and bodies mutilated. There we determine

    ever to allow ourselves to come alive into the hands of th

    oisheviki. To prevent this we had our weapons and

    upply of cyanide of potassium.Passing across one branch of the Yenisei, once we sa

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    narrow, miry pass, the entrance to which was strewn wi

    he bodies of men and horses. A little farther along w

    ound a broken sleigh with rifled boxes and pape

    cattered about. Near them were also torn garments an

    odies. Who were these pitiful ones? What tragedy wa

    taged in this wild wood? We tried to guess this enigmnd we began to investigate the documents and paper

    hese were official papers addressed to the Staff

    General Pepelaieff. Probably one part of the Staff durin

    he retreat of Kolchak's army went through this woo

    triving to hide from the enemy approaching from all side

    ut here they were caught by the Reds and killed. Not f

    om here we found the body of a poor unfortunate woma

    whose condition proved clearly what had happened befo

    elief came through the beneficent bullet. The body la

    eside a shelter of branches, strewn with bottles an

    onserve tins, telling the tale of the bantering feast that hareceded the destruction of this life.

    The further we went to the south, the more pronounced

    ospitable the people became toward us and the mo

    ostile to the Bolsheviki. At last we emerged from th

    orests and entered the spacious vastness of thMinnusinsk steppes, crossed by the high red mounta

    ange called the "Kizill-Kaiya" and dotted here and the

    with salt lakes. It is a country of tombs, thousands of larg

    nd small dolmens, the tombs of the earliest proprietors

    his land: pyramids of stone ten metres high, the marks s

    y Jenghiz Khan along his road of conquest and afterward

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    y the cripple Tamerlane-Temur. Thousands of thes

    olmens and stone pyramids stretch in endless rows to th

    orth. In these plains the Tartars now live. They wer

    obbed by the Bolsheviki and therefore hated the

    rdently. We openly told them that we were escaping. The

    ave us food for nothing and supplied us with guides, tellins with whom we might stop and where to hide in case

    anger.

    After several days we looked down from the high bank

    he Yenisei upon the first steamer, the "Oriol," from

    Krasnoyarsk to Minnusinsk, laden with Red soldiers. Soowe came to the mouth of the river Tuba, which we were

    ollow straight east to the Sayan mountains, where Urianh

    egins. We thought the stage along the Tuba and i

    ranch, the Amyl, the most dangerous part of our cours

    ecause the valleys of these two rivers had a dens

    opulation which had contributed large numbers of soldieo the celebrated Communist Partisans, Schetinkin an

    Krafcheno.

    A Tartar ferried us and our horses over to the right ban

    f the Yenisei and afterwards sent us some Cossacks

    aybreak who guided us to the mouth of the Tuba, whewe spent the whole day in rest, gratifying ourselves with

    east of wild black currants and cherries.

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    CHAPTER VIII

    THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A

    PRECIPICE

    Armed with our false passports, we moved along up th

    alley of the Tuba. Every ten or fifteen versts we cam

    cross large villages of from one to six hundred house

    where all administration was in the hands of Soviets an

    where spies scrutinized all passers-by. We could not avo

    hese villages for two reasons. First, our attempts to avo

    hem when we were constantly meeting the peasants in th

    ountry would have aroused suspicion and would hav

    aused any Soviet to arrest us and send us to the "Chekan Minnusinsk, where we should have sung our last son

    econdly, in his documents my fellow traveler was grante

    ermission to use the government post relays f

    orwarding him on his journey. Therefore, we were forced

    isit the village Soviets and change our horses. Our ow

    mounts we had given to the Tartar and Cossack wh

    elped us at the mouth of the Tuba, and the Cossac

    rought us in his wagon to the first village, where w

    eceived the post horses. All except a small minority of th

    easants were against the Bolsheviki and voluntar

    ssisted us. I paid them for their help by treating their sicnd my fellow traveler gave them practical advice in th

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    management of their agriculture. Those who helped u

    hiefly were the old dissenters and the Cossacks.

    Sometimes we came across villages entire

    Communistic but very soon we learned to distinguish them

    When we entered a village with our horse bells tinkling an

    ound the peasants who happened to be sitting in front heir houses ready to get up with a frown and a grumble th

    ere were more new devils coming, we knew that this wa

    village opposed to the Communists and that here w

    ould stop in safety. But, if the peasants approached an

    reeted us with pleasure, calling us "Comrades," we knet once that we were among the enemy and took gre

    recautions. Such villages were inhabited by people wh

    were not the Siberian liberty-loving peasants but b

    migrants from the Ukraine, idle and drunk, living in po

    irty huts, though their village were surrounded with th

    lack and fertile soil of the steppes. Very dangerous anleasant moments we spent in the large village of Karatu

    is rather a town. In the year 1912 two colleges we

    pened here and the population reached 15,000 people.

    s the capital of the South Yenisei Cossacks. But by now

    s very difficult to recognize this town. The peasamigrants and Red army murdered all the Cossac

    opulation and destroyed and burned most of the house

    nd it is at present the center of Bolshevism an

    Communism in the eastern part of the Minnusinsk district.

    he building of the Soviet, where we came to exchange o

    orses, there was being held a meeting of the "Cheka." W

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    were immediately surrounded and questioned about o

    ocuments. We were not any too calm about th

    mpression which might be made by our papers an

    ttempted to avoid this examination. My fellow travel

    fterwards often said to me:

    "It is great good fortune that among the Bolsheviki thood-for-nothing shoemaker of yesterday is the Govern

    f today and scientists sweep the streets or clean th

    tables of the Red cavalry. I can talk with the Bolshevi

    ecause they do not know the difference betwee

    disinfection' and 'diphtheria,' 'anthracite' and 'appendicitnd can talk them round in all things, even up to persuadin

    hem not to put a bullet into me."

    And so we talked the members of the "Cheka" round

    verything that we wanted. We presented to them a brig

    cheme for the future development of their district, when w

    would build the roads and bridges which would allow the

    o export the wood from Urianhai, iron and gold from th

    ayan Mountains, cattle and furs from Mongolia. What

    iumph of creative work for the Soviet Government! O

    de occupied about an hour and afterwards the membe

    f the "Cheka," forgetting about our documents, personahanged our horses, placed our luggage on the wagon an

    wished us success. It was the last ordeal within the borde

    f Russia.

    When we had crossed the valley of the river Amy

    Happiness smiled on us. Near the ferry we met a membf the militia from Karatuz. He had on his wagon sever

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    fles and automatic pistols, mostly Mausers, for outfittin

    n expedition through Urianhai in quest of some Cossac

    fficers who had been greatly troubling the Bolsheviki. W

    tood upon our guard. We could very easily have met th

    xpedition and we were not quite assured that the soldie

    would be so appreciative of our high-sounding phrases awere the members of the "Cheka." Carefully questionin

    he militiaman, we ferreted out the route their expeditio

    was to take. In the next village we stayed in the same hous

    with him. I had to open my luggage and suddenly I notice

    is admiring glance fixed upon my bag.

    "What pleases you so much?" I asked.

    He whispered: "Trousers . . . Trousers."

    I had received from my townsmen quite new trousers

    lack thick cloth for riding. Those trousers attracted the ra

    ttention of the militiaman."If you have no other trousers. . . ." I remarked, reflectin

    pon my plan of attack against my new friend.

    "No," he explained with sadness, "the Soviet does n

    urnish trousers. They tell me they also go without trouser

    And my trousers are absolutely worn out. Look at them."

    With these words he threw back the corner of h

    vercoat and I was astonished how he could keep himse

    nside these trousers, for they had such large holes th

    hey were more of a net than trousers, a net through which

    mall shark could have slipped.

    "Sell me," he whispered, with a question in his voice.

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    "I cannot, for I need them myself," I answered decisively

    He reflected for a few minutes and afterwar

    pproaching me, said: "Let us go out doors and talk. He

    is inconvenient."

    We went outside. "Now, what about it?" he began. "Yo

    re going into Urianhai. There the Soviet bank-notes hav

    o value and you will not be able to buy anything, whe

    here are plenty of sables, fox-skins, ermine and gold du

    o be purchased, which they very willingly exchange f

    fles and cartridges. You have each of you a rifle and I w

    ive you one more rifle with a hundred cartridges if you givme the trousers."

    "We do not need weapons. We are protected by o

    ocuments," I answered, as though I did not understand.

    "But no," he interrupted, "you can change that rifle the

    nto furs and gold. I shall give you that rifle outright.""Ah, that's it, is it? But it's very little for those trouser

    Nowhere in Russia can you now find trousers. All Russ

    oes without trousers and for your rifle I should receive

    able and what use to me is one skin?"

    Word by word I attained to my desire. The militia-man gmy trousers and I received a rifle with one hundre

    artridges and two automatic pistols with forty cartridge

    ach. We were armed now so that we could defen

    urselves. Moreover, I persuaded the happy possessor

    my trousers to give us a permit to carry the weapons. The

    he law and force were both on our side.

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    In a distant village we bought three horses, two for ridin

    nd one for packing, engaged a guide, purchased drie

    read, meat, salt and butter and, after resting twenty-fo

    ours, began our trip up the Amyl toward the Saya

    Mountains on the border of Urianhai. There we hoped not

    meet Bolsheviki, either sly or silly. In three days from thmouth of the Tuba we passed the last Russian village ne

    he Mongolian-Urianhai border, three days of consta

    ontact with a lawless population, of continuous danger an

    f the ever present possibility of fortuitous death. Only iro

    will power, presence of mind and dogged tenacity broug

    s through all the dangers and saved us from rolling bac

    own our precipice of adventure, at whose foot lay so man

    thers who had failed to make this same climb to freedo

    which we had just accomplished. Perhaps they lacked th

    ersistence or the presence of mind, perhaps they had n

    he poetic ability to sing odes about "roads, bridges anold mines" or perhaps they simply had no spare trousers

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    CHAPTER IX

    TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY

    Dense virgin wood surrounded us. In the high, alread

    ellow grass the trail wound hardly noticeable in amon

    ushes and trees just beginning to drop their many colore

    eaves. It is the old, already forgotten Amyl pass roa

    wenty-five years ago it carried the provisions, machinend workers for the numerous, now abandoned, gold mine

    f the Amyl valley. The road now wound along the wide an

    apid Amyl, then penetrated into the deep forest, guiding u

    ound the swampy ground filled with those dangerou

    iberian quagmires, through the dense bushes, acrosmountains and wide meadows. Our guide probably did n

    urmise our real intention and sometimes, apprehensive

    ooking down at the ground, would say:

    "Three riders on horses with shoes on have passed her

    erhaps they were soldiers."

    His anxiety was terminated when he discovered that th

    acks led off to one side and then returned to the trail.

    "They did not proceed farther," he remarked, sly

    miling.

    "That's too bad," we answered. "It would have been mo

    vely to travel in company."

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    But the peasant only stroked his beard and laughe

    vidently he was not taken in by our statement.

    We passed on the way a gold mine that had bee

    ormerly planned and equipped on splendid lines but wa

    ow abandoned and the buildings all destroyed. Th

    olsheviki had taken away the machinery, supplies anlso some parts of the buildings. Nearby stood a dark an

    loomy church with windows broken, the crucifix torn off an

    he tower burned, a pitifully typical emblem of the Russia

    oday. The starving family of the watchman lived at the min

    n continuing danger and privation. They told us that in thorest region were wandering about a band of Reds wh

    were robbing anything that remained on the property of th

    old mine, were working the pay dirt in the richest part

    he mine and, with a little gold washed, were going to drin

    nd gamble it away in some distant villages where th

    easants were making the forbidden vodka out of berriend potatoes and selling it for its weight in gold. A meetin

    with this band meant death. After three days we crosse

    he northern ridge of the Sayan chain, passed the bord

    ver Algiak and, after this day, were abroad in the territo

    f Urianhai.This wonderful land, rich in most diverse forms of natur

    wealth, is inhabited by a branch of the Mongols, which

    ow only sixty thousand and which is gradually dying o

    peaking a language quite different from any of the oth

    ialects of this folk and holding as their life ideal the tenet

    Eternal Peace." Urianhai long ago became the scene

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    dministrative attempts by Russians, Mongols an

    Chinese, all of whom claimed sovereignty over the regio

    whose unfortunate inhabitants, the Soyots, had to pa

    ibute to all three of these overlords. It was due to this th

    he land was not an entirely safe refuge for us. We ha

    eard already from our militiaman about the expeditioreparing to go into Urianhai and from the peasants w

    earned that the villages along the Little Yenisei and farthe

    outh had formed Red detachments, who were robbing an

    lling everyone who fell into their hands. Recently they ha

    illed sixty-two officers attempting to pass Urianhai in

    Mongolia; robbed and killed a caravan of Chines

    merchants; and killed some German war prisoners wh

    scaped from the Soviet paradise. On the fourth day w

    eached a swampy valley where, among open forest

    tood a single Russian house. Here we took leave of o

    uide, who hastened away to get back before the snowhould block his road over the Sayans. The master of th

    stablishment agreed to guide us to the Seybi River for te

    housand roubles in Soviet notes. Our horses were tire

    nd we were forced to give them a rest, so we decided

    pend twenty-four hours here.

    We were drinking tea when the daughter of our ho

    ried:

    "The Soyots are coming!" Into the room with their rifle

    nd pointed hats came suddenly four of them.

    "Mende," they grunted to us and then, without ceremonegan examining us critically. Not a button or a seam in o

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    ntire outfit escaped their penetrating gaze. Afterwards on

    f them, who appeared to be the local "Merin" or governo

    egan to investigate our political views. Listening to o

    riticisms of the Bolsheviki, he was evidently pleased an

    egan talking freely.

    "You are good people. You do not like Bolsheviki. We welp you."

    I thanked him and presented him with the thick silk co

    which I was wearing as a girdle. Before night they left u

    aying that they would return in the morning. It grew dar

    We went to the meadow to look after our exhausted horserazing there and came back to the house. We were ga

    hatting with the hospitable host when suddenly we hea

    orses' hoofs in the court and raucous voices, followed b

    he immediate entry of five Red soldiers armed with rifle

    nd swords. Something unpleasant and cold rolled up in

    my throat and my heart hammered. We knew the Reds a

    ur enemies. These men had the red stars on the

    Astrakhan caps and red triangles on their sleeves. The

    were members of the detachment that was out to look f

    Cossack officers. Scowling at us they took off the

    vercoats and sat down. We first opened the conversatioxplaining the purpose of our journey in exploring f

    ridges, roads and gold mines. From them we then learne

    hat their commander would arrive in a little while with seve

    more men and that they would take our host at once as

    uide to the Seybi River, where they thought the Cossac

    fficers must be hidden. Immediately I remarked that o

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    ffairs were moving fortunately and that we must trav

    long together. One of the soldiers replied that that wou

    epend upon the "Comrade-officer."

    During our conversation the Soyot Governor entere

    Very attentively he studied again the new arrivals and the

    sked: "Why did you take from the Soyots the good horsend leave bad ones?"

    The soldiers laughed at him.

    "Remember that you are in a foreign country!" answere

    he Soyot, with a threat in his voice.

    "God and the Devil!" cried one of the soldiers.

    But the Soyot very calmly took a seat at the table an

    ccepted the cup of tea the hostess was preparing for him

    he conversation ceased. The Soyot finished the te

    moked his long pipe and, standing up, said:

    "If tomorrow morning the horses are not back at thwner's, we shall come and take them." And with thes

    words he turned and went out.

    I noticed an expression of apprehension on the faces

    he soldiers. Shortly one was sent out as a messeng

    while the others sat silent with bowed heads. Late in thight the officer arrived with his other seven men. As h

    eceived the report about the Soyot, he knitted his brow

    nd said:

    "It's a bad mess. We must travel through the swam

    where a Soyot will be behind every mound watching us."He seemed really very anxious and his trouble fortunate

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    revented him from paying much attention to us. I began

    alm him and promised on the morrow to arrange th

    matter with the Soyots. The officer was a coarse brute an

    silly man, desiring strongly to be promoted for the captu

    f the Cossack officers, and feared that the Soyot cou

    revent him from reaching the Seybi.At daybreak we started together with the Re

    etachment. When we had made about fifteen kilometer

    we discovered behind the bushes two riders. They we

    oyots. On their backs were their flint rifles.

    "Wait for me!" I said to the officer. "I shall go for a parlewith them."

    I went forward with all the speed of my horse. One of th

    orsemen was the Soyot Governor, who said to me:

    "Remain behind the detachment and help us."

    "All right," I answered, "but let us talk a little, in order thhey may think we are parleying."

    After a moment I shook the hand of the Soyot an

    eturned to the soldiers.

    "All right," I exclaimed, "we can continue our journey. N

    indrance will come from the Soyots."We moved forward and, when we were crossing a larg

    meadow, we espied at a long distance two Soyots riding

    ull gallop right up the side of a mountain. Step by step

    ccomplished the necessary manoeuvre to bring me an

    my fellow traveler somewhat behind the detachmenehind our backs remained only one soldier, very brutish

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    ppearance and apparently very hostile to us. I had time

    whisper to my companion only one word: "Mauser," an

    aw that he very carefully unbuttoned the saddle bag an

    rew out a little the handle of his pistol.

    Soon I understood why these soldiers, excelle

    woodsmen as they were, would not attempt to go to theybi without a guide. All the country between the Algia

    nd the Seybi is formed by high and narrow mounta

    dges separated by deep swampy valleys. It is a curse

    nd dangerous place. At first our horses mired to th

    nees, lunging about and catching their feet in the roots ushes in the quagmires, then falling and pinning us und

    heir sides, breaking parts of their saddles and bridle

    hen we would go in up to the riders' knees. My horse we

    own once with his whole breast and head under the re

    uid mud and we just saved it and no more. Afterwards th

    fficer's horse fell with him so that he bruised his head ontone. My companion injured one knee against a tre

    ome of the men also fell and were injured. The horse

    reathed heavily. Somewhere dimly and gloomily a cro

    awed. Later the road became worse still. The trail followe

    hrough the same miry swamp but everywhere the road walocked with fallen tree trunks. The horses, jumping over th

    unks, would land in an unexpectedly deep hole an

    ounder. We and all the soldiers were covered with bloo

    nd mud and were in great fear of exhausting our mount

    or a long distance we had to get down and lead them. A

    ast we entered a broad meadow covered with bushes an

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    ordered with rocks. Not only horses but riders also bega

    o sink to their middle in a quagmire with apparently n

    ottom. The whole surface of the meadow was but a th

    ayer of turf, covering a lake with black putrefying wate

    When we finally learned to open our column and proceed

    ig intervals, we found we could keep on this surface thndulated like rubber ice and swayed the bushes up an

    own. In places the earth buckled up and broke.

    Suddenly, three shots sounded. They were hardly mo

    han the report of a Flobert rifle; but they were genuin

    hots, because the officer and two soldiers fell to thround. The other soldiers grabbed their rifles and, wi

    ear, looked about for the enemy. Four more were soo

    nseated and suddenly I noticed our rearguard brute rais

    is rifle and aim right at me. However, my Mauser outstrod

    is rifle and I was allowed to continue my story.

    "Begin!" I cried to my friend and we took part in th

    hooting. Soon the meadow began to swarm with Soyot

    tripping the fallen, dividing the spoils and recapturing the

    orses. In some forms of warfare it is never safe to leav

    ny of the enemy to renew hostilities later wi

    verwhelming forces.After an hour of very difficult road we began to ascen

    he mountain and soon arrived on a high plateau covere

    with trees.

    "After all, Soyots are not a too peaceful people,"

    emarked, approaching the Governor.He looked at me very sharply and replied:

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    "It was not Soyots who did the killing."

    He was right. It was the Abakan Tartars in Soyot clothe

    who killed the Bolsheviki. These Tartars were running the

    erds of cattle and horses down out of Russia throug

    Urianhai to Mongolia. They had as their guide an

    egotiator a Kalmuck Lamaite. The following morning w

    were approaching a small settlement of Russian colonis

    nd noticed some horsemen looking out from the wood

    One of our young and brave Tartars galloped off at fu

    peed toward these men in the wood but soon wheele

    nd returned with a reassuring smile."All right," he exclaimed, laughing, "keep right on."

    We continued our travel on a good broad road along

    igh wooden fence surrounding a meadow filled with a fin

    erd of wapiti or izubr, which the Russian colonists bree

    or the horns that are so valuable in the velvet for sale ibetan and Chinese medicine dealers. These horns, whe

    oiled and dried, are called panti and are sold to th

    Chinese at very high prices.

    We were received with great fear by the settlers.

    "Thank God!" exclaimed the hostess, "we thought . . nd she broke off, looking at her husband.

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    CHAPTER X

    THE BATTLE ON THE SEYBI

    Constant dangers develop one's watchfulness an

    eenness of perception. We did not take off our clothes n

    nsaddle our horses, tired as we were. I put my Maus

    nside my coat and began to look about and scrutinize th

    eople. The first thing I discovered was the butt end of fle under the pile of pillows always found on the peasant

    arge beds. Later I noticed the employees of our ho

    onstantly coming into the room for orders from him. The

    id not look like simple peasants, although they had lon

    eards and were dressed very dirtily. They examined mwith very attentive eyes and did not leave me and my frien

    lone with the host. We could not, however, make o

    nything. But then the Soyot Governor came in an

    oticing our strained relations, began explaining in th

    oyot language to the host all about us.

    "I beg your pardon," the colonist said, "but you knoourself that now for one honest man we have ten thousan

    murderers and robbers."

    With this we began chatting more freely. It appeared th

    ur host knew that a band of Bolsheviki would attack him

    he search for the band of Cossack officers who were livinn his house on and off. He had heard also about the "tot

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    oss" of one detachment. However, it did not entirely cal

    he old man to have our news, for he had heard of the larg

    etachment of Reds that was coming from the border of th

    Usinsky District in pursuit of the Tartars who were escapin

    with their cattle south to Mongolia.

    "From one minute to another we are awaiting them wiear," said our host to me. "My Soyot has come in an

    nnounced that the Reds are already crossing the Sey

    nd the Tartars are prepared for the fight."

    We immediately went out to look over our saddles an

    acks and then took the horses and hid them in the busheot far off. We made ready our rifles and pistols and too

    osts in the enclosure to wait for our common enemy. A

    our of trying impatience passed, when one of the workme

    ame running in from the wood and whispered:

    "They are crossing our swamp. . . . The fight is on."In fact, like an answer to his words, came through th

    woods the sound of a single rifle-shot, followed closely b

    he increasing rat-tat-tat of the mingled guns. Nearer to th

    ouse the sounds gradually came. Soon we heard th

    eating of the horses' hoofs and the brutish cries of th

    oldiers. In a moment three of them burst into the housom off the road where they were being raked now by th

    artars from both directions, cursing violently. One of them

    hot at our host. He stumbled along and fell on his knee, a

    is hand reached out toward the rifle under his pillows.

    "Who are YOU?" brutally blurted out one of the soldierurnin to us and raisin his rifle. We answered wi

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    Mausers and successfully, for only one soldier in the rear b

    he door escaped, and that merely to fall into the hands of

    workman in the courtyard who strangled him. The fight ha

    egun. The soldiers called on their comrades for help. Th

    Reds were strung along in the ditch at the side of the roa

    hree hundred paces from the house, returning the fire he surrounding Tartars. Several soldiers ran to the hous

    o help their comrades but this time we heard the regul

    olley of the workmen of our host. They fired as though in

    manoeuvre calmly and accurately. Five Red soldiers lay o

    he road, while the rest now kept to their ditch. Before lonwe discovered that they began crouching and crawling o

    oward the end of the ditch nearest the wood where the

    ad left their horses. The sounds of shots became mo

    nd more distant and soon we saw fifty or sixty Tarta

    ursuing the Reds across the meadow.

    Two days we rested here on the Seybi. The workmen ur host, eight in number, turned out to be officers hidin

    om the Bolsheviks. They asked permission to go on w

    s, to which we agreed.

    When my friend and I continued our trip we had a gua

    f eight armed officers and three horses with packs. Wrossed a beautiful valley between the Rivers Seybi and U

    verywhere we saw splendid grazing lands with numerou

    erds upon them, but in two or three houses along the roa

    we did not find anyone living. All had hidden away in fe

    fter hearing the sounds of the fight with the Reds. Th

    ollowing day we went up over the high chain of mountain

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    alled Daban and, traversing a great area of burned timb

    where our trail lay among the fallen trees, we began

    escend into a valley hidden from us by the intervenin

    oothills. There behind these hills flowed the Little Yenise

    he last large river before reaching Mongolia proper. Abo

    en kilometers from the river we spied a column of smoksing up out of the wood. Two of the officers slipped awa

    o make an investigation. For a long time they did not retu

    nd we, fearful lest something had happened, moved o

    arefully in the direction of the smoke, all ready for a fight

    ecessary. We finally came near enough to hear the voice

    f many people and among them the loud laugh of one

    ur scouts. In the middle of a meadow we made out a larg

    ent with two tepees of branches and around these a crow

    f fifty or sixty men. When we broke out of the forest all

    hem rushed forward with a joyful welcome for us.

    ppeared that it was a large camp of Russian officers anoldiers who, after their escape from Siberia, had lived

    he houses of the Russian colonists and rich peasants

    Urianhai.

    "What are you doing here?" we asked with surprise.

    "Oh, ho, you know nothing at all about what has beeoing on?" replied a fairly old man who called himse

    Colonel Ostrovsky. "In Urianhai an order has been issue

    om the Military Commissioner to mobilize all men ov

    wenty-eight years of age and everywhere toward the tow

    f Belotzarsk are moving detachments of these Partisan

    hey are robbing the colonists and peasants and killin

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    veryone that falls into their hands. We are hiding here fro

    hem."

    The whole camp counted only sixteen rifles and thre

    ombs, belonging to a Tartar who was traveling with h

    Kalmuck guide to his herds in Western Mongolia. W

    xplained the aim of our journey and our intention to pashrough Mongolia to the nearest port on the Pacific. Th

    fficers asked me to bring them out with us. I agreed. O

    econnaissance proved to us that there were no Partisan

    ear the house of the peasant who was to ferry us over th

    ittle Yenisei. We moved off at once in order to pass auickly as possible this dangerous zone of the Yenisei an

    o sink ourselves into the forest beyond. It snowed b

    mmediately thawed. Before evening a cold north win

    prang up, bringing with it a small blizzard. Late in the nig

    ur party reached the river. Our colonist welcomed us an

    ffered at once to ferry us over and swim the horselthough there was ice still floating which had come dow

    om the head-waters of the stream. During th

    onversation there was present one of the peasant

    workmen, red-haired and squint-eyed. He kept movin

    round all the time and suddenly disappeared. Our hooticed it and, with fear in his voice, said:

    "He has run to the village and will guide the Partisan

    ere. We must cross immediately."

    Then began the most terrible night of my whole journe

    We proposed to the colonist that he take only our food anmmunition in the boat, while we would swim our horse

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    cross, in order to save the time of the many trips. Th

    width of the Yenisei in this place is about three hundre

    metres. The stream is very rapid and the shore break

    way abruptly to the full depth of the stream. The night wa

    bsolutely dark with not a star in the sky. The wind

    whistling swirls drove the snow and sleet sharply againur faces. Before us flowed the stream of black, rap

    water, carrying down thin, jagged blocks of ice, twisting an

    rinding in the whirls and eddies. For a long time my hors

    efused to take the plunge down the steep bank, snorte

    nd braced himself. With all my strength I lashed him w

    my whip across his neck until, with a pitiful groan, he thre

    imself into the cold stream. We both went all the way und

    nd I hardly kept my seat in the saddle. Soon I was som

    metres from the shore with my horse stretching his hea

    nd neck far forward in his efforts and snorting and blowin

    ncessantly. I felt the every motion of his feet churning thwater and the quivering of his whole body under me in th

    ial. At last we reached the middle of the river, where th

    urrent became exceedingly rapid and began to carry u

    own with it. Out of the ominous darkness I heard th

    houtings of my companions and the dull cries of fear an

    uffering from the horses. I was chest deep in the icy wate

    ometimes the floating blocks struck me; sometimes th

    waves broke up over my head and face. I had no time

    ook about or to feel the cold. The animal wish to live too

    ossession of me; I became filled with the thought that,

    my horse's strength failed in his struggle with the streammust perish. All my attention was turned to his efforts and

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    is quivering fear. Suddenly he groaned loudly and I notice

    e was sinking. The water evidently was over his nostri

    ecause the intervals of his frightened snorts through th

    ostrils became longer. A big block of ice struck his hea

    nd turned him so that he was swimming right downstream

    With difficulty I reined him around toward the shore but feow that his force was gone. His head several time

    isappeared under the swirling surface. I had no choice

    lipped from the saddle and, holding this by my left han

    wam with my right beside my mount, encouraging him w

    my shouts. For a time he floated with lips apart and h

    eeth set firm. In his widely opened eyes was indescribab

    ear. As soon as I was out of the saddle, he had at onc

    sen in the water and swam more calmly and rapidly. A

    ast under the hoofs of my exhausted animal I heard th

    tones. One after another my companions came up on th

    hore. The well-trained horses had brought all their burdenver. Much farther down our colonist landed with th

    upplies. Without a moment's loss we packed our things o

    he horses and continued our journey. The wind wa

    rowing stronger and colder. At the dawn of day the co

    was intense. Our soaked clothes froze and became ha

    s leather; our teeth chattered; and in our eyes showed th

    ed fires of fever: but we traveled on to put as much spac

    s we could between ourselves and the Partisans. Passin

    bout fifteen kilometres through the forest we emerged in

    n open va