Bedford Cords

7/27/2019 Bedford Cords

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PRIY A NK GO Y A L S L E CT URE S O N FA BRIC ST RUCT URE

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BEDFORD CORDS

The Bedford Cor d class of weaves produces longitudinal warp

lines in the cloth with fine sunken lines in between. These

cords are of two types.

1. Plain face Bedford Cords.

2. Wadded Bedford Cords.

3. Bedford cords arranged with alternate picks

4. Twill faced Bedford Cords

5. Crepon Bedford Cords

1. Plain Faced Bedford Cords

In Plain faced Bedford Cords, there are two types of ends:

1. The plain e nds - These ends for m t he sunken lines

between the raised cords.

2. The cord ends These ends determine the actual cords.

How t o draw Plain faced Bedford Cords:

On Even number of Threads

Let us make a Bedford cord with 4 plain ends and 8 cord ends

Let the cord is of 4 end wide.

Step 1: Make a grid of total 12 ends and 4 picks. Indicate

the plain ends at the end and at the middle. Pair of

plain ends work in plain order with picks.

Step 2: Insert mark on first and second picks of alternate

cords as (o)

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Step 3: Insert plain weave on the cord ends thus left by

marking ().

On Odd Number of Threads

Size: 14 x 4

2. Wadded Bedford Cords

These structure contain thick wadded ends. The object of the

arrangement is to give prominence to the cords.

How to insert wadded ends in ordinary Bedford cords:

Let us take a Bedford cord as taken in the previous example.



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Let us say, we want to insert wadded ends in the positions as

indicated by the arrows. Thus if we insert wadded ends at this

position, then these are indicated by two columns at these

positions as:

Procedure to bind these wadded ends in the weave

To bin d the ends we raise these ends where picks flo at at the

back and left these ends down where the picks interweave in

plain order.

3. Bedford Cords arranged with alternate picks

Bedford cords are also made with alternate pics floating at the

back. In this case we proceed as follows:



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a. The marks of the pairs of plain ends are indicated as shown

at A. (.)

b. Then marks(o), which cut with the plain marks, are inserted

on alternate horizontal spaces, as represented by B.

c. Now plain weave (X) is inserted on the blank horizontal

spaces of the cords, as indicated at C. Here it may be noted

that the plain does not join perfectly with the plain marks of

the pairs of end.

4. Twill Faced Bedford Cords



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Another modification of the Bedford cord structure consists of

using a warp twill instead of plain weave for the picks which

interweave on the face of the cord stripes. This brings the

warp more prominently to the surface of the fabric. In this

case we proceed as follows:

a. The marks(.) of the pairs of plain ends are indicated as

shown at A.

b. Then marks(o), which cut with the plain marks, are inserted

on alternate horizontal spaces, as represented by B.



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c. Now twill weave (X) is inserted on the blank horizontal

spaces of the cords, as indicated at C.

Crepon Bedford cords

Sometimes hard twisted weft is used. It shrinks and it causes

the cords to stand up very prominently. For example in the

following design, there are two picks of hard-twisted weft

which alternate with two picks of ordinary weft.Here plain

ends in one section are mid-way between those in the other

section. When the fabric is finished, the hard twisted weft,

which floats on the underside shrinks, and an irregular or



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crepon effect is given to the fabric:


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Bedford Cords