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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Nancy Barker, Dianne & Virgil Bodeen, Rich-ard Dinkeldein, Laura Gravina, David Hutch-eson, Anne Jovaras, Bernard Jovaras, John Kearins, Tim Kuemmerle, Graham Newton, Juhana Rantavuori, Derek Sime, Gary Stocker, Jacques Tribier
AUTHOR THANKS Isabella NobleA huge gracias to all the andaluces (and guiris) who helped me out on the road. A big thank you to Annie and Pepi in Vejer for fantastic foodie tips, to Antonio for the good times in Écija and to Tes-sa for being the ultimate Gibraltar insider. Special thanks to Papi and Jacky, my favourite research assistants and roadtripping companions, and to my fabulous co-authors. As always, thanks to Susan Forsyth, for starting the Tarifa trend.
John NobleSpecial thanks to Izzy for sharing the whole experience, to Tito for good conversation and a fascinating film, and to all the so-welcoming andaluces who helped me along the way.
Josephine QuinteroJosephine would like to extend a mighty grand gracias to the numerous staff at the various tourist offices. She would also like to thank Robin Chapman for joining her in all that dining and wining research, as well as Jorge Guzman, a valuable contact in Málaga along with all her Spanish malagueño friends who provided endless advice and tips. Finally she would like to thank Destination Editor Lorna Parkes and everyone else involved in the title at Lonely Planet.
Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, chefs, hotel receptionists, tour guides and flamenco singers who helped me in this research.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘UpdatedWorld Map of the Köppen-Geiger ClimateClassification’, Hydrology and Earth SystemSciences, 11, 1633–44.
Illustrations pp52-3, 200-1 & 252-3 by Javier Zarracina.
Cover photograph: Plaza de España, Parque de María Luisa, Seville, Alan Copson / AWL ©.
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
382
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Andalucía guidebook was researched and written by Isabella Noble, John Noble, Jo-sephine Quintero and Brendan Sainsbury. The 7th edition was written by Brendan Sainsbury, Josephine Quintero and Daniel C Schechter, and the 6th was written by Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler, Vesna Maric, John Noble and Zora O’Neill.
This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editors Jo Cooke, Lorna ParkesProduct Editor Elizabeth JonesSenior Cartographer Anthony PhelanBook Designer Cam AshleyAssisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Kellie Langdon, Bella Li, Charlotte Orr, Victoria Smith, Gabrielle
Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Tracy WhitmeyCartographers Piotr Czajkowski, Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Baskett, Daniel Corbett, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Anna Harris, Andi Jones, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Darren O’Connell, Martine Power, Jessica Rose, Diana Saengkham, Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 383
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aaccommodation 358-60,
see also individual locations
language 373activities 23-5, 36-40, 82,
see also individual activities & locations
Agua Amarga 303air travel 367-8airports 367-8Alájar 96-7Alcalá la Real 226Alcaracejos 217Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59Alfarnate 190Alfarnatejo 190Algeciras 149Alhambra 9, 250-5, 328-9,
252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3Almería 288-94, 290
accommodation 291drinking & nightlife 293entertainment 293festivals & events 291food 292-3history 288sights 288-9, 291tapas 292travel to/from 293-4travel within 294
Almería province 46, 285-308, 286-7
accommodation 285car travel 285food 33, 285highlights 286-7
Almodóvar del Río 216Almohads 327-8Almonaster la Real 98Almoravids 327Almuñécar 283-4
animals rights 348Antequera 185-8apes 153, 335Aracena 20, 93-5, 94archaeological sites
Acinipo 184-5Baelo Claudia 148Casa del Obispo 109Cueva de la Pileta 184Cueva de los Letreros 308Dolmen de Menga 186Dolmen de Viera 186Dolmen del Romeral 186Itálica 98Los Millares 296-7Madinat al-Zahra 205-6,
327Necrópolis Romana
99, 101Teatro Romano (Cádiz) 109Templo Romano
(Córdoba) 204-5architecture 21, 231, 325-31
books 330Arcos de la Frontera 131-3,
135, 132Ardales 185area codes 364Arroyo Frío 240art galleries, see museums
& galleriesarts 15, 22, 51, 266, 344-7ATMs 363Ayamonte 87
BBaelo Claudia 148Baena 211Baeza 16, 227-31, 228, 16Barbary apes 153, 335Baroque architecture 330-1Barranco de Poqueira 278bathrooms 365beaches 14, 21, 84
Cabo de Gata 300, 13Cala Carbón 300
Cala de Enmedio 300Cala de la Media Luna
300Calas del Barronal 300El Palmar 141El Puerto de Santa María
128Flecha del Rompido 86Isla Canela 87Isla Cristina 86-7La Carihuela 171Los Caños de Meca 141Matalascañas 87Mojácar Playa 303-4Playa Burriana 193Playa Calahonda 193Playa Central 86Playa Chica 143Playa de la Caleta 112Playa de la Charca 282Playa de la Gaviota 86Playa de la Guardia 282Playa de la Malagueta 163Playa de la Muralla 128Playa de la Puntilla 128Playa de la Rada 175Playa de la Victoria 113Playa de las Cortinas 141Playa de los Genoveses
300Playa de los Lances 143Playa de Mónsul 300Playa de Pedregalejo 163Playa de San Cristóbal 283Playa de Santa Catalina
128Playa de Valdelagrana 128Playa de Valdevaqueros
143Playa del Barronal 300Playa del Cañuelo 193Playa del Faro 141Playa del Playazo 300,
301Playa el Palo 163Playa Fuentebravía 128Playa Puerta del Mar 283
Playa San Pedro 300, 301Playamar 171Punta del Moral 87Punta Paloma 143Tarifa 143Zahara de los Atunes
142, 15beer 355-6Belalcázar 217Benalmádena 170-2Benaoján 184Bérchules 281bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 336-7birdwatching 38, 336-7
Centro de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral 240-1
Centro de Visitantes José Antonio Valverde 89
El Rocío 90, 91Gaucín 185Gibraltar 154Laguna de Fuente de
Piedra 189Parque Natural Sierra de
Andújar 226-7Peñón de Zaframagón 138Sierra Nevada 275
boat travel 369bodegas
El Puerto de Santa María 127, 128
Jerez de la Frontera 120-1Laujar de Andarax 297Montilla 212Sanlúcar de Barrameda
130Bolonia 148books 310, see also
literaturearchitecture 330food 353history 316, 322wine 353
border crossings 150, 149, 368
384
IND
EX B-C
Bubión 278budget 19bullfighting 182, 321,
348-50bullrings 349
Plaza de Toros (El Puerto de Santa María) 127
Plaza de Toros (Mijas) 177
Plaza de Toros (Ronda) 179
Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza 64
bus travel 19, 368, 369-70business hours 363butterflies 171
CCabo de Gata 13, 298-303,
299, 13Cabo de Trafalgar 141Cádiz 13, 109, 112-18, 320,
114-15, 13accommodation 113activities 112-13courses 113drinking & nightlife 117entertainment 117-18festivals & events 112food 113, 116-17internet resources 118sights 109, 112travel to/from 118travel within 118
Cádiz province 45, 108-50, 110-11
accommodation 108beaches 108car travel 108food 32highlights 110-11
Calle Sierpes 65Caminito del Rey 20, 187camping grounds 359Cano, Alonso 330Capileira 278-9Capilla Real 257car hire 370-1car travel 19, 368, 370-1,
see also driving tourslanguage 377
Carmona 99-102, 100Carnaval 23, 112Carretera del Suspiro del
Moro 277
casa rurales 360Castaño del Robledo 97-8castles & forts 42, see also
palaces & mansionsAlcazaba (Almería) 288Alcazaba (Antequera)
186Alcazaba (Granada) 254Alcazaba (Guadix) 271Alcazaba (Málaga)
157, 160Alcázar (Jerez de la
Frontera) 119Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59 Alcázar de la Puerta de
Sevilla 99Alcázar de los Reyes
Cristianos 202-3Alhambra 9, 250-5,
328-9, 252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3
Castillo Árabe (Constantina) 107
Castillo Árabe (Olvera) 138
Castillo Árabe (Salobreña) 282
Castillo de Albánchez 232
Castillo de Almodóvar 216
Castillo de Aracena 93Castillo de Gibralfaro
160Castillo de Guzmán 143Castillo de Jimena 148Castillo de la Calahorra
272Castillo de la Yedra 237Castillo de las
Almadrabas 142Castillo de los Duques
132Castillo de los
Guzmán 91Castillo de los
Sotomayor 217Castillo de
Miramontes 217Castillo de Priego de
Córdoba 214Castillo de San Jorge 66Castillo de San Marcos
125-6Castillo de San Miguel
283Castillo de San
Sebastián 112Castillo de Santa
Catalina (Cádiz) 112Castillo de Santa
Catalina (Jaén) 222-3
Castillo de Santiago 130Castillo de Segura 243Castillo de Vejer de la
Frontera 139-40Castillo de Vélez Blanco
307Castillo de Zuheros 212Castillo del Marqués de
los Vélez 307Fortaleza de la Mota 226Moorish Castle
(Gibraltar) 153cathedrals, see churches &
cathedralscaves 42
Barriada de las Cuevas 271
Cueva de la Pileta 184Cueva de los Letreros
308Cueva de los
Murciélagos 213Cueva de Nerja 192Cuevas de Sorbas 295Cuevas del Almanzora
307Gruta de las
Maravillas 93Guadix 271Sacromonte 260St Michael’s Cave 153
Cazalla de la Sierra 105, 107
Cazorla 237-8cell phones 364Centro Lorca 20, 270ceramics 236children, travel with 41-3
Costa del Sol 171Seville 71
Christian architecture 329-31, see also churches & cathedrals
Christian art 345churches & cathedrals
329-31Basílica de La Macarena
68Basílica Menor de Santa
María de la Asunción 132-3
Basilica San Juan de Díos 259
Capilla de los Benavides 229
Catedral de Baeza 227-8Catedral de Cádiz 109Catedral de Granada 257Catedral de Guadix 271Catedral de la Asunción
222
Catedral de la Encarnación 288-9
Catedral de la Sierra 217Catedral de Málaga 157Catedral de San
Salvador 119Catedral de Sevilla 9,
50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3Colegiata de Santa María
de la Asunción 102Colegiata de Santa María
la Mayor (Antequera) 186
Colegiata del Salvador 256
Ermita de Nuestra Señora Reina de los Ángeles 96
Ermita del Rocío 90Iglesia de la Asunción 242Iglesia de la Aurora 214Iglesia de la Santa Cruz
228Iglesia de Nuestra
Señora de la O 129Iglesia de San Francisco
214Iglesia de San Jorge 85Iglesia de San Juan
(Almería) 288Iglesia de San Juan
(Écija) 104Iglesia de San Martín
(Almonaster la Real) 98
Iglesia de San Martín (Niebla) 91
Iglesia de San Mateo 143Iglesia de San
Pablo-Santo Domingo 104
Iglesia de San Pedro 133Iglesia de Santa Ana 256Iglesia de Santa María
(Cazorla) 237Iglesia de Santa María
(Écija) 104Iglesia de Santa María de
Granada 91Iglesia de Santa María de
la Alhambra 254Iglesia de Santa María de
los Reales Alcázares 234
Iglesia de Santa María de Mesa 136
Iglesia de Santa María La Mayor 179
Iglesia del Carmen 187Iglesia del Divino
Salvador 139Iglesia Nuestra Señora
de Gracia 271
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
385IN
DEX C
-F Iglesia Parroquial
Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación 138
Iglesia Prioral de Nuestra Señora del Mayor Dolor 93
Iglesia Prioral de Santa María de la Asunción 99
Parroquia de la Asunción 214
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la O 67
Parroquia de Santa Ana 67
Parroquia Mayor de Santa Cruz 104
Parroquia del Divino Salvador 65
Sacra Capilla de El Salvador 232
Santa Iglesia Catedral de Córdoba 202
Santuario de la Virgen de la Cabeza 226
Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Cinta 82
Seville cathedral 9, 50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3
churros 31cinema 347, see also filmsCivil War 321-2climate 18, 23-5coffee 356cold soups 354Colón, Cristóbal, see
Columbus, ChristopherColumbus, Christopher
50-1, 84, 85, 319Comares 190Cómpeta 190-1Concurso de Cante Jondo
342Constantina 107convents
Convento de San Francisco 254
Convento de Santa Clara (Carmona) 99
Córdoba 198-211, 204accommodation 207-8drinking 209entertainment 209festivals & events 206food 208-9history 198patios 202shopping 209sights 198-206tourist information 210travel to/from 210travel within 210-11
Córdoba province 45, 195-218, 196-7
accommodation 195car travel 195food 32, 195highlights 196-7
Costa de la Luz 14, 86-7, 139-50, 15
Costa del Sol 170-8Costa Tropical 282-4courses
cooking 31, 69, 140flamenco 69language 69, 113, 140,
361-2credit cards 363Cueva de la Pileta 184Cueva de los Letreros 308Cueva de Nerja 192Cuevas de Sorbas 295Cuevas del Almanzora
307currency 18, 150customs regulations 360cycling 37, 369, see also
vías verdes (greenways)
Ddance 338-43, see also
flamencodebit cards 363del Amo, Tito 305, 306Desfiladero de
Despeñaperros 225-6Desierto de Tabernas
294-5disabilities, travellers
with 365discount cards 360diving 37-8
Cabo de Gata 300-1La Herradura 284Nerja 193Tarifa 143
Dolmen de Menga 186Dolmen de Viera 186Dolmen del Romeral 186dolphin-watching 145, 154drinks 354-6
language 374-5driving licences 370driving tours, see also car
travelSierra Norte de Sevilla
106, 106white towns 134, 134
Duque de Medina Sidonia 323
Eeagles 336Écija 103-5economy 310-11El Altiplano 271-2El Burgo 183El Chorro 185, 187El Fraile 301El Palmar 141El Pedroso 107El Pozo de los Frailes 302El Puerto de Santa María
125-9, 126El Rinconcillo 266El Rocío 90-2El Yelmo 242electricity 150, 360Embalse del Conde del
Guadalhorce 185Embalse del Tranco 240emergencies 19
language 375Estepona 175-7events, see festivals &
eventsexchange rates 19
FFeria de Abril 23, 70, 2Feria del Caballo 24, 122, 24Fernández, Alejo 51ferry travel 369Festival de Jerez 23, 122festivals & events 23-5
Bienal de Flamenco 25, 70
Bluescazorla 238Carnaval 23, 112Carreras de Caballos 130Corpus Christi 25, 181Cruces de Mayo 206Día de la Cruz 261Día de los Reyes Magos
23Feria de Abril 23, 70, 2Feria de Baeza 229Feria de Fuengirola 173Feria de la Manzanilla 130Feria de la Tapa 25Feria de la Virgen de la
Luz 145Feria de Málaga 25,
163-4Feria de Mayo 206Feria de Pedro Romero
25, 181Feria de Primavera
y Fiestas del Vino Fino 127
Feria de San Miguel 133Feria del Caballo 24,
122, 24Feria del Corpus Cristi
260-1Festival de Jerez 23, 122Festival de la Guitarra de
Córdoba 206Festival Internacional de
la Guitarra 25Festival Internacional del
Aire 242Festival Internacional
de Música y Danza (Granada) 261
Festival Internacional de Música y Danza Ciudad de Úbeda 235
Festividad Virgen del Carmen 127
Fiesta de los Patios de Córdoba 24-5, 206
Fiesta Mayor de Verdiales 25, 163
Fiestas Colombinas 82Fiestas de Otoño 25Jazz en la Costa 283Moros y Cristianos 304Moto GP 24Motorcycle Grand
Prix 122Noche de San Juan
193, 304Noche del Vino 190Real Feria de Agosto 187Romería de la Virgen de
la Cabeza 226Romería del Rocío 24,
90, 130Semana Santa
(Antequera) 187Semana Santa
(Arcos de la Frontera) 133
Semana Santa (Baeza) 229
Semana Santa (Córdoba) 206
Semana Santa (Granada) 260
Semana Santa (Jaén) 224
Semana Santa (Málaga) 163
Semana Santa (Seville) 17, 23, 69-70, 17, 24
Semana Santa (Úbeda) 235
Velada de Nuestra Señora de la Oliva 140
Virgen del Carmen 193films 310, see also cinema
386
IND
EX F-H
flamenco 12, 62-3, 338-43, 12, 62-3
Almería 293Cádiz 117, 341Córdoba 203-4courses 69El Puerto de Santa
María 128festivals 70, 340Granada 268Jerez de la Frontera 119,
124, 341Lebrija 341Málaga 169Morón de la Frontera 341museums 64, 160, 203-4Seville 48, 76-7, 341Utrera 341Vejer de la Frontera 141
flamingos 337Flecha del Rompido 86food 21, 41-2, 165, 351-5,
361, 35, see also individual locations
books 353churros 31cooking courses 31,
69, 140gazpacho 354, 35internet resources 354jamón (ham) 280, 352-3language 374-5olive oil 211, 230, 294,
353-4seafood 351tapas 13, 34, 168, 265,
292, 352, 13tomatoes 296
forts, see castles & fortsfountains
Fuente de los Leones 227Fuente del Rey 214Fuente Pública 304
Franco, General Francisco 322-3
Frigiliana 191Fuengirola 172-3
GGame of Thrones filming
locationsAlcázar 56-7, 59Osuna 103
gardens, see parks & gardens
Gaucín 185gay travellers 360-1gazpacho 354, 35Generación de ’27 346Generación de ’98 346geography 332Gibraltar 45, 108, 150-5,
151, 152accommodation 154activities 153-4food 154-5history 151shopping 155sights 151-3travel to/from 155travel within 155
Giralda (Seville) 56Golden Century art 345-6Góngora, Luís de 346GR7 (Sendero de Gran
Recorrido 7) footpath 146, 275
GR240 footpath 275GR247 footpath 20, 241Granada 247, 250-70, 254,
258-9, 262-3, 5accommodation 261-3activities 260drinking & nightlife
267-8entertainment 268festivals & events 260-1food 263-7history 247shopping 269sights 250-60street art 256tapas 265teterías (teahouses)
267tourist information 269tours 260travel to/from 269-70travel within 270
Granada province 46, 246-84, 248-9
flamenco 246food 32, 246highlights 248-9travel seasons 246
Grazalema 135-6Greek settlement 313Guadix 271-2
Hhammams 244-5, 245
Aire Baños Árabes 61, 64Hammam Al-Andalus
(Málaga) 163
Hammam Andalusí (Jerez de la Frontera) 122
Hammam de Al Andalus (Granada) 260, 244
hang-gliding 39-40health 361Hedionda sulphur baths
176hiking 21, 36-7
Alájar-Castaño del Robledo 96
Aracena 93Cabo de Gata 301Cahorros Altos 273Caminito del Rey 187Camino de los
Charcones 137Cañón de Bailón 213Castaño del
Robledo-Galaroza Loop 97
Cerro de San Cristóbal 98
El Calvario-Corazón de Jesús 135
El Torreón 138Garganta Verde 136, 137GR7 146, 275GR240 275GR247 20, 241Las Alpujarras 275Las Laderas-Camino
Viejo Loop 105Linares de la Sierra 93maps 362-3Mediterranean Steps
(Gibraltar) 153Mijas 177Mulhacén 273, 275Paraje Natural Torcal de
Antequera 189Parque Nacional de
Doñana 89Parque Natural de la
Breña y Marismas del Barbate 141-2
Parque Natural Los Alcornocales 148, 149-50
Parque Natural Sierra de Hornachuelos 216-17
Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves 183
Parque Natural Sierra de María-Los Vélez 307
Parque Natural Sierra Norte de Sevilla 105
Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas 240
Raya Real 89
Sendero Botánico 216Sendero Cerro del Cinto
302Sendero Charco de la
Boca 89Sendero de Ermitas y
Monasterios 237Sendero de Gran
Recorrido 7 (GR7) 146, 275
Sendero de Los Ángeles 216
Sendero del Acantilado 141-2
Sendero del Aguadero 297
Sendero del Arroyo de las Cañas 107
Sendero del Gilillo 237Sendero del Guaitenejo
185Sendero del Pinsapar
137Sendero Gerald Brenan
281Sendero Guadalora
216-17Sendero Lagunas del
Acebuche 89Sendero Los Castañares
107Sendero Río Borosa 241Sendero Río
Hozgarganta 148-50Sendero Río Verde 277Sendero Salto del
Cabrero 137Sendero Subida al
Picacho 148Sendero Umbría de la
Virgen 307Sierra de Grazalema
137-8Sierra Nevada 273, 275Sulayr 275Trevélez 280Veleta 273, 275Vía Verde de la Sierra
138Vía Verde de la Sierra
Norte 105Vía Verde de la
Subbética 213Vía Verde del Aceite
223-4hilltop towns 22history 312-24
books 316, 322Islamic Spain 314-18prehistoric Andalucía
312-13Reconquista 317-19
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
387IN
DEX H
-M
Spanish Civil War 321-2Spanish Inquisition 319traders & invaders
313-14holidays 364Hornos 242horse riding 38-9, 2
Aracena 93Cómpeta 190Lanjarón 275Parque Nacional de
Doñana 89Tarifa 143
horses 121, 122hostales 358-9hostels 358-9Huelva 82-4, 83Huelva province 44, 79,
82-98, 80-1accommodation 79activities 82car travel 79food 31-2, 79highlights 80-1internet resources 82
IIberian lynx 226, 311, 335,
335-6, 14ibex 335immigration 367insurance 361, 371internet access 361internet resources 19Isla Cristina 86-7Islamic architecture 325-9,
see also castles & forts; mosques; palaces & mansions
Islamic culture 314-18, 344-5
Itálica 98itineraries 26-9, see
also driving tours
JJaén 222-5, 223Jaén province 46, 219-43,
220-1accommodation 219car travel 219, 232food 32, 219highlights 220-1
jamón (ham) 280, 352-3Jerez de la Frontera 119-25,
120-1accommodation 122activities 121-2drinking & nightlife 124-5
entertainment 124, 125festivals & events 122food 122-4sights 119-21travel to/from 125travel within 125
Jewish culture 316, 317Jimena de la Frontera
148-50Jiménez, Juan Ramón 86
Kkitesurfing 16, 39, 144-5,
17, 39
LLa Axarquía 189-91La Herradura 283-4La Isleta del Moro 302La Pepa 320La Rábida 84La Tahá 279-80La Vega 271-2Laguna de Fuente de
Piedra 189language courses 69, 113,
140, 361-2languages 18, 373-80Lanjarón 275-6Las Alpujarras 12, 272-3,
275-82, 296-8, 274Laujar de Andarax 297-8legal matters 362lesbian travellers 360-1Linares de la Sierra 95-6literature 266, 270, 346-7Lorca, Federico Garcia 266,
270, 346, 347Los Cahorros 273Los Caños de Meca 141-2Los Escullos 301Los Pedroches 217Los Tresmiles 273, 275Los Vélez 307-8Lugares Colombinos 84-6lynx 226, 311, 335, 335-6,
14
Mmacaques 153, 335Madinat al-Zahra 205-
6, 327Mairena 281-2Málaga 15, 157, 160-70,
162, 166-7, 15accommodation 164activities 163drinking & nightlife 167-8
entertainment 169festivals & events 163-4food 164-7history 157shopping 169sights 157, 160-1, 163travel to/from 169-70travel within 170
Málaga province 45, 156-94, 158-9
accommodation 156car travel 156food 32, 156highlights 158-9
mansions, see palaces & mansions
maps 362-3Marbella 173-5markets
Almería 288, 293Córdoba 205Málaga 161Tarifa 143
Matalascañas 87measures 362Mecina Bombarón 281Mezquita (Córdoba) 10, 20,
198-202, 326-7, 200-1, 11, 200-1
Mijas 177-8Minas de Riotinto 92-3mining 92-3, 302mobile phones 364Moguer 85-6Mojácar 303-6, 305Molina, Antonio Muñoz 347monasteries
Conjunto Monumental de la Cartuja 68
Iglesía y Monasterio de Santiago 271
Monasterio de la Encarnación 102
Monasterio de la Rábida 84
Monasterio de Montesión 237
Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo 98-9
Monasterio de San Jerónimo 259-60, 22
Monasterio de Santa Clara 85
O Sel Ling 277money 18, 19, 150, 360,
363Montilla wines 212Morocco, travel to/from
149, 368, 369
mosques 326-7Alcázar (Jerez de la
Frontera) 119Mezquita (Almonaster la
Real) 98, 326Mezquita (Córdoba) 10,
20, 198-202, 326-7, 200-1, 11, 200-1
motorcycle travel 368, 370-1mouflon 335Mozarabies 329Mudéjars 329Muelle de las Carabelas 84Mulhacén 273, 275Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban
51Museo Picasso Málaga 15,
157, 160, 15museums & galleries 42
Archivo de Indias 61Archivo-Museo San Juan
de Dios 256Baños Arabes 181Carmen Museo Max
Moreau 256-7Casa Alpujarreña 278Casa de Pilatos 65Casa de Sefarad 203Casa del Obispo 109Casa Museo Arte
Andalusí 234Casa Museo de Mijas 177Casa Museo Manuel de
Falla 255Casa Museo Martín
Alonso Pinzón 85Casa Museo Pedro
Antonio de Alarcón 278Casa Museo Zenobia y
Juan Ramón Jiménez 86
Centre Pompidou Málaga 20, 160-1
Centro Andaluz de la Fotografía 289, 291
Centro Cerámica Triana 66
Centro de Arte Contemporáneo de Málaga 161
Centro de Arte Contemporáneo de Mijas 177
Centro de Interpretación Cuevas de Guadix 271
Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla 61
Centro de Interpretación Olivar y Aceite 20
Centro de la Interpretación Mudéjar 69
388
IND
EX M-P
museums & galleries continued
Centro Flamenco Fosforito 203-4
Centro José Guerrero 257
Centro Lorca 270Centro Velázquez 61Colección Arte Garó 175Conjunto Monumental
de la Cartuja 68Cueva Museo 307El Pabellon de la
Navegación 68Fundación Rafael Alberti
126Fundación Rodríguez-
Acosta 255Gibraltar Museum 152Hospital de la
Caridad 64Hospital de los
Venerables Sacerdotes 61
Huerta de San Vicente 270
La Casa de los Volcanes 302
La Cilla 138Metropol Parasol 65Military Heritage Centre
153Museo Antiquarium 65Museo Arqueológico
(Almuñécar) 283Museo Arqueológico
(Córdoba) 204Museo Arqueológico
(Estepona) 175Museo Arqueológico
(Jerez de la Frontera) 119
Museo Arqueológico (Seville) 67
Museo Automovilístico Málaga 161, 163
Museo Batalla de las Navas de Tolosa 226
Museo Carmen Thyssen 160
Museo Casa Natal Federico García Lorca 270
Museo Conventual de las Descalzas 186
Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte 260
Museo de Almería 289
Museo de Arte Flamenco 160
Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Jaén) 222
Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Seville) 67
Museo de Artesanía Textil 135
Museo de Bellas Artes (Granada) 254
Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville) 64-5
Museo de Cádiz 112Museo de Huelva 82Museo de Málaga 160Museo de Nerja 192-3Museo de Osuna 102Museo de Ronda 179Museo de la Alhambra
254Museo de la Ciudad de
Carmona 99Museo de la Ciudad de
Antequera 186Museo de la Guitarra
289Museo de las Cortes de
Cádiz 112Museo de San Juan de la
Cruz 234Museo del Baile
Flamenco 64Museo del Bandolero
179, 181Museo del Carnaval 86Museo del Grabado
Español 174Museo del Jamón 93Museo del Vidrio y
Cristal 160Museo Histórico
(Salobreña) 282Museo Histórico
Municipal (Écija) 104Museo Histórico
Municipal (Priego de Córdoba) 215
Museo Internacional de Arte Naïf 222
Museo Julio Romero de Torres 204
Museo Lara 179Museo Minero 92Museo Naval 85Museo Picasso Málaga
15, 157, 160, 15Museo Ralli 174-5Museo Ruso de Málaga
20, 161Museo Sefardi 255
Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija 65
Palacio de los Olvidados 20, 256
Palacio de Viana 205Plaza de Toros de la Real
Maestranza 64Torre de la Calahorra
203Torre del Oro 64
NNacimiento del
Guadalquivir 240Nasrids 328-9national parks & nature
reserves 332-4, see also parks & gardens
Centro de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral 240-1
Paraje Natural Torcal de Antequera 188-9, 334
Parque Dunar 87Parque Nacional de
Doñana 14, 87-90, 130, 332-3
Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada 273-5, 333
Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Níjar 298-303, 333, 299, 13
Parque Natural de Despeñaperros 225-6
Parque Natural de Doñana 88
Parque Natural de la Breña y Marismas del Barbate 141-2
Parque Natural Los Alcornocales 148-50, 333
Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar 226-7, 333
Parque Natural Sierra de Cardeña y Montoro 217
Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema 137-8, 334
Parque Natural Sierra de Hornachuelos 216-18
Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves 183, 334
Parque Natural Sierra de María-Los Vélez 307
Parque Natural Sierra Norte 334
Parque Natural Sierra Norte de Sevilla 105-7
Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas 239-43, 334
Parque Natural Sierras Subbéticas 211-16
Upper Rock Nature Reserve 153
nature reserves, see national parks & nature reserves; parks & gardens
Necrópolis Romana 99, 101Nelson, Horatio Lord 152Nerja 191-4, 192newspapers 362Niebla 91Níjar 295-6
OOhanes 297olive oil 211, 230, 294,
353-4Olvera 138-9, 22Omayyads 326opening hours 363Órgiva 276Osuna 102-3outdoor activities
23-5, 36-40, 82, see also individual activities & locations
Ppalaces & mansions, see
also castles & fortsAlcazaba (Almería) 288Alcazaba (Málaga)
157, 160Alcázar (Jerez de la
Frontera) 119Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59Alcázar de los Reyes
Cristianos 202-3Alhambra 9, 250-5,
328-9, 252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3
Casa de Pilatos 65Casa del Mayorazgo 139Castillo de Zuheros 212Palacio de Dar-al-Horra
256Palacio de Govantes y
Herdara 102Palacio de Jabalquinto
228Palacio de la Condesa de
Lebrija 65Palacio de los Cepeda
102Palacio de los Duques de
Medina Sidonia 129Palacio de Los
Marqueses de la Algaba 69
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
389IN
DEX P
-T Palacio de Orleans y
Borbón 129Palacio de Peñaflor 104Palacio de Vázquez de
Molina 232Palacio de Viana 205Palacio de
Villardompardo 222Palacio del Deán Ortega
232Palacio Marqués de la
Gomera 102Palacio Vela de los
Cobos 234Palos de la Frontera 84-5Pampaneira 277-8paradores 359paragliding 39-40, 284Paraje Natural Torcal de
Antequera 188-9parking 371parks & gardens 328, see
also national parks & nature reserves
Alameda Botanic Gardens 152
Casa del Rey Moro 179Jardín Botánico El
Albardinal 302Jardín Botánico Umbría
de la Virgen 307Jardín Micológico ‘La
Trufa’ 215Orchidarium 175Parque Botánico El
Majuelo 283Parque de María Luisa
66-7Paseo de España 161
Parque de María Luisa 66-7
Parque Nacional de Doñana 14, 87-90, 130, 332-3
Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Níjar 298-303, 333, 299, 13
Parque Natural Los Alcornocales 148-50, 333
Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar 226-7, 333
Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema 137-8, 334
Parque Natural Sierra de Hornachuelos 216-18
Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves 183, 334
Parque Natural Sierra de María-Los Vélez 307
Parque Natural Sierra Norte de Sevilla 105-7
Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas 239-43, 334
Parque Natural Sierras Subbéticas 211-16
passports 367Peña de Arias Montano 96Peña de Hierro 92peñas 63, 341Peñón de Zaframagón 138Phoenician settlement 313phonecards 364-5Picasso, Pablo 157, 347planning
Andalucía basics 18-19Andalucía’s regions 44-6budgeting 19calendar of events 23-5children, travel with 41-3food 30-5internet resources 19itineraries 26-9outdoor activities 36-40repeat visitors 20travel seasons 18, 23-5
Plaza de San Francisco 65poetry 270, 346-7police 362politics 310-11population 311Portugal, travel to/from 87postal services 363pottery 236Pradollano 273Priego de Córdoba 214-16public holidays 364
Rradio 362Real Escuela Andaluza del
Arte Ecuestre 121religion 311Renaissance architecture
330Río Guadalquivir 332Río Madera 243Rio Tinto company 82, 92road rules 371rock climbing 40, 185Rodalquilar 302-3Roman settlement 313-14Romería del Rocío 90Ronda 10, 178-84, 180, 10
accommodation 181-2drinking & nightlife 183entertainment 184festivals & events 181food 182-3sights 178-9, 181
travel to/from 184travel within 184
Ronda la Vieja 184-5Royal Andalucian School of
Equestrian Art 121
SSacromonte 260safety 364Salinas de Cabo de Gata
299Salobreña 282-3San José 300-2San Miguel de Cabo de
Gata 299-300Sanlúcar de Barrameda
129-31Santa Elena 225-6Santa Eufemia 217Santiponce 98-9seafood 351Segura de la Sierra 242-3Semana Santa
Antequera 187Arcos de la Frontera 133Baeza 229Córdoba 206Granada 260Jaén 224Málaga 163Seville 17, 23, 69-70,
17, 24Úbeda 235
Sendero de Gran Recorrido 7 (GR7) 146, 275
senior travellers 360Serranía de Ronda 184-5Sevilla province 44, 79,
98-107, 80-1accommodation 79activities 82car travel 79food 31, 79highlights 80-1internet resources 82
Seville (Sevilla) 44, 48-61, 64-78, 49, 54-5, 58, 60
accommodation 70-2activities 61, 64, 66-7, 68bicycle travel 66children, travel with 71courses 69drinking & nightlife 75-6entertainment 76-7festivals & events 17, 23,
69-70, 17, 24flamenco 48food 48, 72-5
highlights 49history 50shopping 77sights 50-7, 59, 61, 64-9tourist information 77-8tours 69travel seasons 48travel to/from 78travel within 78
Seville cathedral 9, 50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3
sheep 335sherry 10, 33, 130, 355, 11,
see also bodegasfestivals 127food pairings 33history 129
Sherry Triangle 118-31Sierra de Aracena 95-8, 96Sierra de Cazorla 239-
43, 239Sierra Nevada 12, 272-5,
332, 274, 12siesta 33Siglo de Oro (Golden
Century) 345-6skiing 40, 273snorkelling 37-8, 300-1snowboarding 40, 273Sorbas 295spaghetti westerns 294Spanish Civil War 321-2Spanish fir 334spas, see hammamsstorks 337surfing 39, 141, 142synagogues
Sinagoga de Córdoba 203Sinagoga del Agua 234
Ttabancos 123tablaos 63, 343tapas 13, 34, 168, 265, 292,
352, 13Tarifa 16, 142-7, 144, 17, 39
accommodation 145-6activities 143-5drinking & nightlife 147festivals & events 145food 146-7sights 143travel to/from 147
taxes 363taxis 371tea 356, see also teterías
(teahouses)telephone services 150,
364-5
390
IND
EX T-Z
teterías (teahouses) 244-5, 267, 293, 356, 244, 245
theatresGran Teatro Falla 117Sevilla de Ópera 76Teatro Cervantes 169Teatro Villamarta 125
theme parks 42Fort Bravo 295Isla Mágica 68Oasys Mini Hollywood
294-5Tivoli World 171
time 365tinto de verano 169tipping 363toilets 365tomatoes 296Torrecilla 183Torremolinos 170-2Torres, Julio Romero
de 346tourist information 365towers
Torre de la Calahorra 203
Torre del Tajo 141Torre Pirulico 304Torre Tavira 109, 112
Trafalgar Cemetery 152train tours 92-3train travel 19, 368-9,
371-2, 372
travel to/from Andalucía 367-9
travel within Andalucía 369-72
trees 334, 336trekking, see hikingTrevélez 280Triana 66-7
UÚbeda 16, 231-7, 233
accommodation 235drinking & nightlife 236festivals & events 235food 235-6pottery 236shopping 236sights 232, 234travel to/from 236-7travel within 236-7
unemployment 310-11Upper Rock Nature
Reserve 153
VVálor 281Vandelvira, Andrés de
231, 330vegetarian travellers 32Vejer de la Frontera 20,
139-41, 16Velázquez, Diego 51, 345Veleta 273, 275
Vélez Blanco 307-8Vélez Málaga 189vías verdes (greenways)
37Vía Verde de la Sierra
138Vía Verde de la Sierra
Norte 105Vía Verde de la
Subbética 213Vía Verde del Aceite
223-4Villanueva de Córdoba
217visas 150, 365-6Visigoths 314, 326vultures 336-7
Wwalking, see hikingweather 18, 23-5websites 19weights 362whale-watching 145white towns 16, 131-9
Arcos de la Frontera 131-3, 135
driving tour 134, 134Grazalema 135-6Olvera 138-9Vejer de la Frontera 20,
139-41, 16Zahara de la Sierra 136
wildlife 43, 334-7
wildlife-watching 38, 88-9, see also birdwatching, dolphin-watching, individual animals
Centro de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral 240-1
Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar 226-7
windsurfing 39, 144-5, 284
wine 179, 212, 353, 354-5, see also bodegas
wolves 335women travellers 366WWII 153, 323
YYegen 281
ZZahara de la Sierra 136Zahara de los Atunes
142, 15ziplining 174zoos
Biopark 172Oasys Mini Hollywood
294Parque Ornitológico
Loro-Sexi 283Zuheros 211-14Zurbarán, Francisco de
345
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
391
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
Tube station
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
Isabella Noble Huelva & Sevilla Provinces, Cádiz Province & Gibraltar English/Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella grew up in a Málaga mountain village and later lived in Cádiz province. Adventures this edition included exploring Vejer’s magic, hiking Grazalema’s Garganta Verde, getting lost in Cádiz Carnaval and sipping tintos on bleach-blonde beaches in Tarifa, one of her favourite places in the world. For now, she lives in London and writes on Spain, India and beyond for
a number of publications. Isabella also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter. Find her on Twitter/Instagram @isabellamnoble.
John Noble Córdoba Province, Jaén Province, Almería Province John, originally from Eng-land’s Ribble Valley, has lived in an Andalucian mountain village since 1995. He has explored Andalucía from end to end, playing a part in all eight editions of this guidebook. The highlight of research for this edition was going to the Sierra de Andújar to look for wildlife and quite coincidentally getting mixed up in the enor-mous once-a-year festivities of the Romería de la Virgen de la Cabeza. John also
wrote the Andalucía Today and History chapters.
Josephine Quintero Málaga Province Josephine has lived in a small village just outside Málaga since 1992. As well as continually ‘discovering’ the Costa capital, Josephine loves strolling along the beachside promenades throughout the coastal resorts. A highlight this trip was discovering a Roman sulphur spring that has escaped being commercialised and enjoying inspirational art during an open studio week-end in the picturesque mountainside village of Gaucín. Josephine also wrote the
Travel with Children chapter.
Brendan Sainsbury Seville, Granada Province Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan first went to Spain on an Interrail ticket in the 1980s. He went back as a travel guide several years later and met his wife-to-be in a small village in rural Andalucía in 2003. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet for a decade, including four previous editions of the Spain and Andalucía guidebooks. Brendan loves Gra-nada, the writing of Federico Lorca, cycling along via verdes and attending as
many flamenco shows as his research allows. Brendan also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Jan 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 387 2© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Read more about Brendan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brendansainsbury
Read more about Josephine at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/josephinequintero
Read more about John at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ewoodrover
Read more about Isabella at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabellanoble
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’