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Behind the Scenes

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Aleksandr Shapovalov, Brian Wallis, Heather Monell, Kristof Rubens, Martine W, Michael Sheridan, Natasha Meissner, Simon Marks-Isaacs

WRITER THANKSVirginia MaxwellMany thanks to Pat Yale, Mehmet Umur, Emel Güntaş, Faruk Boyacı, Atilla Tuna, Görgün Taner, Tahir Karabaş, Jen Hartin, Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy, Ann Nevans, Tina Nevans, Jennifer Gaudet, Özlem Tuna, Monica Fritz, Leon Yildirimer, Luca Fritz, Teoman Göral, Meltem İnce Okvuran, Nurullah Çınar, Deniz Ova, Zeynep Unanç, Antony Doucet, Sabiha Apaydın, Saliha Yavuz and the many others who shared their knowledge and love of the city with me.

James BainbridgeÇok teşekkürler to my İstanbullu friends old and new who helped me discover the best of the city, including Tahir, Jen and Charlie for showing me around Fener and Balat; Leyla Tabrizi for Nişantaşı advice; Gamze Artaman for Byzantine history; and Barış, Maşallah, Sergei and all the gang at my hotel (guys, that postcard from Cape Town is coming, promise). Cheers also to Cliff Wilkinson, Virginia Maxwell, everyone at Lonely Planet, and on the home front Leigh-Robin, Oliver and Thomas.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSCover photograph: Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), Alan Copson/AWL ©.

Illustrations: pp58-9 and pp64-5 by Javier Zarracina.

227©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s İstanbul guidebook was researched and writ-ten by Virginia Maxwell and James Bainbridge. The previous two editions were also written by Virginia. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editors Lorna Parkes, Tom Stainer, Clifton WilkinsonProduct Editors Grace Dobell, Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographer Corey HutchisonBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, Robyn Loughnane,

Anne Mulvaney, Claire Naylor, Susan PatersonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Imogen Bannister, Bridget Blair, Liz Heynes, Andi Jones, Catherine Naghten, Karyn Noble, Kathryn Rowan

228

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

IndexAaccommodation 15, 177-84,

see also Sleeping subindex

language 218-19Adıvar, Halide Edib 202Ahmed Afif Paşa Yalı 168Ahmed Paşa Mosque 160Ahmet I 73Ahmet III 70 Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar

Literature Museum Library 81-2

air travel 208-9Akbank Art 131Akın, Fatih 205Albanian Village 164Alpgezmen, Filiz 206Altun, Selçuk 204Ambler, Eric 204ambulance 214Anadolu Hisarı 165Anadolu Kavağı 169Anadolu Kavağı Kalesi 169Aqueduct of Valens 100Arab Mosque 129architecture 197-201Arnavutköy 164art 23, 158art galleries 28, see also

museumsAkbank Art 131ARTER 129Empire Project, the 131Galerı Nev 130Galerist 130İstanbul Modern 127Mixer 130National Palaces Painting

Museum 150Pera Museum 126, 126

ARTER 129Askeri Müze 151Ataman, Kutluğ 205Atatürk 193, 194Atik Valide Mosque 160ATMs 215Aya Efimia Rum Ortodoks

Kilisesi 158Aya İrini 79Aya Sofya 7, 54-60, 56, 6-7,

54, 57, 86Aya Sofya Tombs 78-9Aya Triada 130Aynalıkavak Kasrı 173Ayvansaray 173Azapkapı Sokollu Mehmet

Paşa Mosque 129

BBahriye Nezareti 171baklava 35, 33Balat 13, 172, see also

Western Districtsbalık ekmek 106, 29Balık Pazarı 128, 139bargaining 17, 44Basilica Cistern 11, 26, 76, 3,

11, 76, 86bathrooms 217Bazaar District 50-1, 91-111,

91, 104, 242-3accommodation 182drinking & nightlife 106food 92, 102-6, 107highlights 91-2shopping 92, 108-11sights 93-102sports & activities 111transport 92walks 104, 104

bazaars, see marketsBebek 164Bebek Mosque 164Beşiktaş 51, 147-54, 147,

250-1accommodation 184

drinking & nightlife 148, 153-4

food 148, 152-3highlights 147-9sights 149-51sports & activities 154transport 148

Beyatli, Yahya Kemal 202Beyazıt Mosque 102Beyazıt Square 101-2Beyazıt State Library 102Beykoz 168Beylerbeyi Palace 164Beyoğlu 51, 123-46, 123,

244-5, 248-9, 10, 11, 138

accommodation 182-4drinking & nightlife 10,

124, 137, 140-2entertainment 142-3food 10, 124, 131-40highlights 123-4shopping 128, 143-6sights 125-31sports & activities 146transport 124walks 132, 132

bicycle travel 213Blue Mosque 12, 72-3, 5, 12,

72, 197boat travel 161-76, 209,

211-12, 8books 194, 195, 202-5Borusan Contemporary 165Bosphorus, the 162-70, 9,

162, 8, 166Bosphorus Bridge 164, 190bridges

Bosphorus Bridge 164, 190

Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge 165

Galata Bridge 101 Martyrs of July 15

Bridge 164, 190 Yavuz Sultan Selim

Bridge 196

budget 14, 28, 38bus travel 18, 209-10, 212-13business hours 30, 37, 43,

47, 216 Büyük Göksu Deresi 165Büyük Valide Han 94Büyükada 175-6, 167Byzantium 188-9

Ccable cars 212 car travel 210cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCarpet Museum 79Celasin, Izzet 203cell phones 14, 216Ceylan, Nuri Bilge 206children, travel with 26Chill-Out Festival 24Chora Church 10, 114-16,

254, 10, 49Christ Church 128-9churches & cathedrals

23, 28Aya Efimia Rum

Ortodoks Kilisesi 158Aya İrini 79Aya Triada 130Christ Church 128-9Church of St Mary of the

Mongols 120-1Church of St Stephen of

the Bulgars 121Church of the Monastery

of Christ Pantokrator 100-1

Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople 121

Patriarchal Church of St George 117

Surp Takavor Ermeni Kilisesi 158

Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi 128

Church of St Mary of the Mongols 120-1

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P000

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P000

3 ENTERTAINMENT P000

7 SHOPPING P000

4 SLEEPING P000

see also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P232

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P2333 ENTERTAINMENT P234

7 SHOPPING P234

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P234

4 SLEEPING P235

229©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars 121

Church of the Monastery of Christ Pantokrator 100-1

Çiçek Pasajı 129-30Cihangir, see also Beyoğlu

drinking & nightlife 142entertainment 142-3 food 136-7, 140shopping 145-6sights 131 sports & activities 146

cinema 205-6cinemas 39, 41Çinili Mosque 160Çırağan Palace 151climate 15coffee 36, 38, 137Column of Constantine 101Constantine I 189Constantinople 189-91Constantius 189costs 14, 30, 178, 214courses 26, 34, see

also Sports & Activities subindex

credit cards 215Çukurcuma, see also

Beyoğludrinking & nightlife 142entertainment 142-3 food 136-7, 140shopping 145-6sights 131 sports & activities 146

cultural centres 39, see also performing arts centres

Akbank Art 131Borusan Contemporary

165Depo 129 Galata Mevlevi

Museum 142-3Garajistanbul 143Hodjapasha Cultural

Centre 88İstanbul Arastırmaları

Enstitüsü 130Les Arts Turcs 88SALT Galata 129

culture 187currency 14customs regulations 214

cycling 213 Cypriot Yalı 165

Ddangers 15, 37Depo 129development 186-7Diocletian 189disabilities, travellers

with 217Dolmabahçe Palace

149, 149dolmuşes 213Drew, Alan 205drinking & nightlife 36-8,

see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods

coffee 36, 38, 137language 219-20, 226

driving 210

Eeconomy 194-6Ecumenical Patriarchate of

Constantinople 121Egyptian consulate

building 164electricity 214emergencies 214

language 221Emirgan Korusu

(Woods) 168Empire Project, the 131entertainment 39-41, see

also Entertainment subindex, individual neighbourhoods

Erdem, Reha 205Erksan, Metin 205etiquette 17, 19, 27, 47events 24-5Eyüp 119, 173, 119Eyüp Sultan Mosque

118, 120

FFatih, see Western DistrictsFatih Mosque 118Fatih Sultan Mehmet

Bridge 165faytons 167Fehime Sultan Yalı 164Fener 172, see also

Western Districtsferry travel 9, 18, 23, 27,

161-76, 211-12, 8festivals 24-5

Fethi Ahmed Paşa Yalı 164Fethiye Museum 117films 205-6fire 214Fish Market 128, 139fish sandwiches 106, 29food 29-35, 30, see

also Eating subindex, individual neighbour-hoods

baklava 35, 33balık ekmek 106, 29 costs 30language 219-20, 224-6lokum 44, 30opening hours 30 pide 32, 31

fortressesAnadolu Hisarı 165Rumeli Hisarı 26, 165,

166free attractions 28Freely, Maureen 205frescoes

Aya Sofya 60 Kariye Museum 10,

114-16, 49funiculars 212

GGalata 3, 138-9, see also

Beyoğludrinking & nightlife 140entertainment 142-3 food 131-3shopping 144sights 127-9 sports & activities 146 walks 132, 132

Galata Bridge 101Galata Mevlevi

Museum 127-8, 142-3Galata Tower 128, 138-9Galatasaray Lycée 128Galerı Nev 130Galerist 130gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 38, 215Gâzi İskender Paşa Mosque

168getting around İstanbul

18-19, 210-13getting to İstanbul 15,

208-10Golden Horn 13, 170-3, 172Grand Bazaar 9, 13, 26, 44,

93-5, 107, 95, 42, 93

Greene, Graham 204Gül Mosque 120 Gülhane Park 81Güney, Yılmaz 205

HHagia Triada Monastery

(Heybeliada) 175Haliç 170-3hamams 12, 46-7, 12, see

also Sports & Activities subindex

Harem 62, 66-7, 69, 199Hasköy 172Hasköy Musevi

Mezarlıgı 173Hatice Sultan Yalı 164Haydarpaşa Railway

Station 158Heybeliada 175

food 176Hikmet, Nâzım 203Hippodrome 77-8history 23, 188-96Hıdiv Kasrı 168holidays 216 horse-drawn carriages 167Hünkâr Kasrı 13, 99Hürrem Sultan 192

Iinsurance 214internet access 215İshak Ağa Çeşmesi 168İstanbul Arastırmaları

Enstitüsü 130İstanbul Archaeology

Museums 74-5, 74, 86İstanbul basics 14-15İstanbul Biennial 25İstanbul Design Biennial 25İstanbul Jazz Festival 25İstanbul Modern 127İstanbul Museum of the

History of Science & Technology in Islam 82

İstanbul Music Festival 24İstanbul Naval

Museum 150İstiklal, see also Beyoğlu

drinking & nightlife 140-2

entertainment 142-3 food 133-6shopping 145sights 129-31 sports & activities 146

İstiklal Caddesi 125, 17, 125Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

230

IND

EX C–

I

İstinye 168itineraries 20-1

JJames Bond 206Justinian I 190

KKadıköy 51, 155-60, 155

accommodation 184drinking & nightlife

156, 159entertainment 159food 156, 158-9highlights 155-7shopping 160sights 157-8sports & activities 160transport 156

Kadıköy Produce Market 157, 157

Kandilli 165Kanlıca 168Kanon, Joseph 205Karaköy 253, see also

Beyoğluentertainment 142-3drinking & nightlife 140food 131, 133shopping 144sights 127-9 sports & activities 146

Kariye Museum 10, 114-16, 254, 10, 49

Kasımpaşa 171Kemal, Mustafa,

see AtatürkKıbrıslı (Cypriot) Yalı 165Kıral, Erdan 205Kız Kulesi 164, 175Kont Ostrorog Yalı 165Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin

Paşa Yalı 165Küçük Göksu Deresi 165Küçüksu Kasrı 165Kuleli Military School 164

LLaleli Mosque 102language 14, 17, 218-26legal matters 215lesbian travellers 38, 215literature 202-5Little Aya Sofya 81Little Syria 103Livaneli, O Z 203local life 27

lokantas 32, 35lokum 44, 30Loti, Pierre 204

MMahmutpaşa Hamamı 94markets 9, 22, 27, 33

Balık Pazarı 128, 139Fish Market 128, 139Grand Bazaar 9, 13, 26,

44, 93-5, 107, 95, 42, 93

Kadıköy Produce Market 157, 157

Old Book Bazaar 95Sahaflar Çarşısı 95Spice Bazaar 98, 98Women’s Bazaar 100

Marmara University Republican Museum 82

Martyrs of July 15 Bridge 164, 190

Mehmet II 191, 191-3metro 13, 212meyhanes 35, 11Mihrimah Sultan Mosque

117, 160Mixer 130mobile phones 14, 216money 14, 30, 178, 214, 215mosaics

Aya Sofya 7, 54-60, 56, 57, 86

İstanbul Archaeology Museums 74-5, 74, 86

Kariye Museum 10, 115, 254, 10, 49

Museum of Great Palace Mosaics 78, 22

mosque etiquette 27mosques 23, 27, 28, 92

Arab Mosque 129Azapkapı Sokollu

Mehmet Paşa Mosque 129

Beyazıt Mosque 102Blue Mosque 13, 72-3, 5,

12, 72, 197Eyüp Sultan Mosque

118, 120Fatih Mosque 118Gül Mosque 120Laleli Mosque 102Little Aya Sofya 81Mihrimah Sultan

Mosque 117, 160New Mosque 99-100Nuruosmaniye

Mosque 13, 100

Ortaköy Mosque 150-1, 166

Rüstem Paşa Mosque 99Şakirin Mosque 169,

200Şehzade Mehmet

Mosque 100Sokullu Şehit Mehmet

Paşa Mosque 81Süleymaniye Mosque 9,

96-7, 9, 96Yavuz Sultan Selim

Mosque 118Museum of Great Palace

Mosaics 78, 22Museum of Innocence 131Museum of the Princes’

Islands (Büyükada) 176Museum of Turkish &

Islamic Arts 77Museum of Turkish

Jews 13, 127museums 22, 28, 148, see

also art galleriesAskeri Müze 151Aya Sofya 7, 54-60, 56,

6-7, 54, 57, 86Carpet Museum 79Chora Church 10, 114-16,

254, 10, 49 Fethiye Museum 117Galata Mevlevi

Museum 127-8Hünkâr Kasrı 99İstanbul Archaeology

Museums 74-5, 74, 86İstanbul Museum of the

History of Science & Technology in Islam 82

İstanbul Naval Museum 150

Kariye Museum 10, 114-16, 254, 10, 49

Marmara University Republican Museum 82

Museum of Great Palace Mosaics 78, 22

Museum of Innocence 131

Museum of the Princes’ Islands 176

Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts 77

Museum of Turkish Jews 13, 127

Nakkaş 82Palace Collections

Museum 13, 150Rahmi M Koç

Museum 26, 173

Sadberk Hanım Museum 169

Sakıp Sabancı Museum 168

Yıldız Şale 150music 41, 186

NNakkaş 82nargiles 37National Palaces

Painting Museum 150New Mosque 99-100newspapers 215Nicolson, Harold 204Nightingale, Florence 191nightlife, see drinking &

nightlifeNişantaşı 51, 147-54,

147, 250-1accommodation 184drinking & nightlife

148, 153-4food 148, 152-3highlights 147-8shopping 154sights 150-1transport 148

Nuruosmaniye Mosque 13, 100

OOld Book Bazaar 95opening hours 30, 37, 43,

47, 216Orga, İrfan 202Ortaköy 51, 147-54,

147, 250-1accommodation 184drinking & nightlife

148, 153-4food 148, 152-3highlights 147-8sights 150-1transport 148

Ortaköy Mosque 150-1, 166Özpetek, Ferzam 205

PPalace Collections

Museum 13, 150Palace of Constantine

Porphyrogenitus 120palaces 23

Beylerbeyi Palace 164Çırağan Palace 151Dolmabahçe Palace

149, 149

231IN

DEX I–

P

Topkapı Palace 7, 13, 61-71, 63, 69, 3, 7, 61, 66, 70, 87, 199

Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus 120

Pamuk, Orhan 203parks & gardens 26, 28

Gülhane Park 81Hippodrome 77-8Yıldız Park 151

Paşabahçe 168Patriarchal Church of St

George 117pavilions 23Pera Museum 126, 126Pera Palace Hotel 130performing arts centres,

see also cultural centres

Borusan Art 143Zorlu Center 39

Phanar Greek Orthodox College 118

pide 32, 31planning

budgeting 14, 28, 30children, travel with 26festivals & events 24-5first-time visitors 16-17İstanbul’s

neighbourhoods 50-1, 51-2

itineraries 20-1local life 27opening hours 30, 37, 43,

47, 216repeat visitors 13travel seasons 15websites 14

police 214politics 186, 194-6population 187postal services 216Princes’ Islands 26,

173-6, 167public holidays 216

RRahmi M Koç Museum

26, 173religion 187Roxelana 62, 192Rumeli Hisarı 26, 165,

166, 167

Rumeli Kavağı 169Rumi, Celaleddin 128Rüstem Paşa Mosque 99

SSadberk Hanım Museum

169Şafak, Elif 203safe travel 15, 37Sahaflar Çarşısı 95Sakıp Sabancı Museum 168Şakirin Mosque 160, 200SALT Galata 129Sarıyer 169Şehzade Mehmet Mosque

100shopping 9, 42-5, see

also Shopping subindex, individual neighbourhoods

language 221Sinan, Mimar Koca 198smoking 216Soğukçeşme Sokak 79, 81Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa

Mosque 81spas 47Spice Bazaar 98, 98street art 158streets

Beyazıt Square 101-2Çiçek Pasaji 129-30İstiklal Caddesi 125,

17, 125Mahmutpaşa Yokuşu 94Soğukçeşme Sokak

79, 81Süleymaniye Mosque 9,

96-7, 9, 96Sultanahmet 50, 52-90,

80, 238, 240-1accommodation 179-82drinking & nightlife 84-8entertainment 88food 53, 82-4highlights 52-3shopping 53, 88-9sights 54-82sports & activities 89-90transport 53walks 80, 80

Sultanahmet Camii, see Blue Mosque

Sultanahmet Mosque, see Blue Mosque

Surp Takavor Ermeni Kilisesi 158

Sütlüce 173

TTaksim Meydanı 125Tanipar, Ahmet Hamdi 202Tarabya 168taxis 19, 212tea 36, 38telephone services 14, 216Tepegöz, Erdem 205Theodora 190, 192, 193Theodosius II 189-90time 14, 216tipping 17, 30, 47toilets 217Tomb of Sokullu Mehmet

Paşa 120Tophane 13, see also

Beyoğludrinking & nightlife 140food 131-3shopping 144sights 127-9 sports & activities 146

Tophane Müşiri Zeki Paşa Yalı 168

Topkapı Palace 7, 13, 61-71, 63, 69, 3, 7, 61, 66, 70, 87, 199

tourist information 14, 217tours 13, 16, 34, see

also Sports & Activities subindex

train travel 18, 210tram travel 18, 211, 17transport 19, 208-13

language 221-2travel to İstanbul 15,

208-10travel within İstanbul 18-19,

210-13Turgul, Yavuz 205Turkish Delight 44, 30Turkish language 218-26

UÜç Horan Ermeni

Kilisesi 128Üsküdar 160

Vvacations 216views 23visas 14, 217

Wwalks 16

Bazaar District 104, 104

Beyoğlu 132, 132Eyüp 119, 119 Sultanahmet 80, 80

weather 15websites 14Western Districts 51,

112-22, 112, 252accommodation 182drinking & nightlife 122food 113, 121-2highlights 112-13sights 114-21sports & activities 122transport 113walks 119, 119

whirling dervishes 39, 88, 127-8, 142-3, 40, 138

women travellers 217Women’s Bazaar 100WWI 194

YYavuz Sultan Selim

Bridge 196Yavuz Sultan Selim

Mosque 118Yeldeğirmeni 13Yeniköy 168Yeni Valide Mosque 160Yıldız Park 151Yıldız Porselen

Fabrikası 151Yıldız Şale 150

ZZarif Mustafa

Paşa Yalı 168Zoe 192

5 EATING

AAgora Meyhanesi 121Aheste 136Ahırkapı Balıkçısı 84Alancha 152Antica Locanda 170Antiochia 134Asitane 122Asmalı Canım

Ciğerim 134Asmalı Cavit 135Aşşk Kahve 152Aynen Dürüm 107Aziz Cafe 122

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

232

IND

EX EA

TIN

G

BBahar Restaurant 105Balık Pazarı 128Balıkçı Sabahattin 84Banyan 152Baylan Pastanesi 158Bena Dondurmaları 107Bereket Döner 105

CCafe Privato 133Cibalikapı 159Çiğdem Pastanesi 82Çiya Sofrası 158Cooking Alaturka 84Çukur Meyhane 134Çukurcuma 49 136Cuma 137

DDandin 133Datlı Maya 136Demeti 140Deraliye 84Develi Baklava 102Dönerci Şahin Usta 107Dürümcü Raif Usta 107

EEleos 135Erol Lokantası 82Ethem Tezçakar

Kahveci 108

FFatih Damak Pide 103Fes Cafe 106Foodie 152Forno 122

GGazientep Burç

Ocakbaşı 107Gülhane Kandil

Tesisleri 83Güney 133Güvenç Konyalı 83

HHacı Abdullah 135Hafız Mustafa 83Hamdi Restaurant 105Havuzlu Restaurant 106Hayvore 133

Helvetia Lokanta 134Heyamola Ada Lokantası

(Heybeliada) 176Hıdiv Kasrı Garden

Cafe 169Hocapaşa Pidecisi 83Honeyci 158Hünkar 152

Iİnci Pastanesi 134

JJash 136Journey 136

KKadı Nimet Balıkçılık 159Kafe Ara 135Kahve 6 136Kantın 152Karadeniz Aile Pide ve

Kebap Salonu 83Karaköy Güllüoğlu 131Karaköy Gümrük 133Karaköy Lokantası 133Kiyi 170Klemuri 135Kokoreççi Erdinç Usta 107Kömür Turk Mutfağı 121Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı

Ali Baba 105

LLâle Pastanesi 85Lokma 170Lucca 170

MMatbah 84Mavi Haliç Pidecisi 105Mavra 133Meshur Dondurmacı

Ali Usta 158Meze by Lemon Tree 135Mikla 136MüzedeChanga 170

NNamlı Gurme 133Neolokal 133

PPak Pide & Pizza

Salonu 107

Palatium 84Pare Baklava Bar 152Pera Café 134Petek Turşuları 128Prinkipo (Büyükada) 176

RReşat Balık Market 128

SSaat Kule Cafe 152Sade Kahve 169Sahrap 135Şark Kahvesi 108Savoy Pastanesi 136Sedef İskender 83Sefa Restaurant 82Siirt Şeref Büryan

Kebap 105Sofyalı 9 135Sur Ocakbaşı 105Sütiş 170 Sütte Şarküteri 128

TTapasuma 170Tarihi Çeşme

Restaurant 83Tarihi Sultanahmet

Köftecisi Selim Usta 83Teras Restaurant

(Büyükada) 176

UÜç Yıldız Şekerleme 128

VVogue 153

YYücetepe Kır Gazinosu

Restaurant (Büyükada) 176

ZZencefil 134Zübeyir Ocakbaşı 134

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

5 Kat 142360 141

AAlex’s Place 141Araf 142Arkaoda 159arthere 159A’YA Rooftop Lounge 85

CCafe Grand Boulevard 141Cafe Meşale 85Caferağa Medresesi

Çay Bahçesi 88Cihangir 21 142Cihannüma 85Çırağan Palace Kempinski

Hotel 153Coffee Department 122Coffee Sapiens 137CUE İstiklal 141

DDarüzziyafe (Former Soup

Kitchen) 108Dem 140Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi 85

EErenler Nargile ve Çay

Bahçesi 106

FFazıl Bey 159Federal Coffee

Company 137Fil 137

GGeyik 137

HHaspa 142Hotel Nomade Terrace

Bar 88

IIndigo 141

KKahve Dünyası 108Karabatak 137Karga Bar 159Klein 153Kloster 141Kronotrop 137

233IN

DEX D

RIN

KIN

G &

NIG

HT

LIFE

Kybele Cafe 85

LLale Bahçesi 108Leb-i Derya 141Love Dance Point 153

MMalta Köşkü 153Manda Batmaz 140Mikla 140Mimar Sinan Teras

Cafe 106MiniMüzikHol 142Mistanbul Hancı Cafe 160

OOff Pera 142Old Java 137

PPandeli 108Parantez 141Pierre Loti Café 122

RRavouna 1906 141Reina 153Ritim Galata 140

SSensus Wine Bar 140Smyrna 142Solera 140Sortie 153

TTek Yön 142Topless Teras 142

UUnter 140Urban 142

VVefa Bozacısı 106

WWalter’s Coffee

Roastery 159

3 ENTERTAINMENT

BBabylon Bomonti 13, 154Başka Sinema 143Borusan Art 143

CCinemaximum 39City’s Nisantasi 154

EEMAV Silivrikapı Mevlana

Cultural Center 39

GGalata Mevlevi

Museum 142-3Garajistanbul 143

HHodjapasha Cultural

Centre 88

JJolly Joker 143

KKanyon 154

LLes Arts Turcs 88

MMunzur Cafe & Bar 143

NNardis Jazz Club 143

SSalon 143Süreyya Opera House 159

ZZorlu Center 39

7 SHOPPING

AA La Turca 146 Abdulla Natural

Products 108Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir

109, 145, 160Altan Şekerleme 109Antijen Design 145Arifoğlu 110Armine 111Artrium 144Arzu Kaprol 144Avrupa Pasajı 128

BBalık Pazarı 128, 139Bou Art & Design 144

CCankurtaran Gıda 110Cocoon 89

DDenizler Kitabevi 145Derviş 109Dhoku 110

EEpoque 108EthniCon 110Eyüp Sabri Tuncer 144

GGaleri Kayseri 88Gönül Paksoy 154

HHafız Mustafa 109, 145Hamm 144Hiç 144

Iİroni 144İznik Classics 89

JJennifer’s Hamam 88

KKhaftan 89Koç Deri Leather 110Kurukahveci Mehmet

Efendi 111

LLa Cave Wine Shop 146Lale Plak 145

Lokum Istanbul 154

MMabel Çikolata 144Malatya Pazarı 110Mariposa 146Mehmet Çetinkaya

Gallery 89Mehmet Kalmaz

Baharatçı 110Mekhann 109, 146Mephisto 145, 160Mesut Güneş 160Misela 145Muhlis Günbattı 110

NNahıl 145Nakkaş 89Necef Antik & Gold 108Nil Baharat 109NYKS 144

OOpus3a 145Özlem Tuna 88

PPandora 145Petek Turşuları 128

RReşat Balık Market 128

SŞekerci Aytekin Erol

Caferzade 160Selda Okutan 144Serhat Geridönmez 110Sevan Bıçakçı 110Seyahan 145Silk & Cashmere 109Sofa 109Sütte Şarküteri 128

TTezgah Alley 145

UÜç Horan Ermeni

Kilisesi 128Üç Yıldız Şekerleme 128Ucuzcular Baharat 110Ümit Berksoy 109Sights 000

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

234

IND

EX EN

TE

RTA

INM

EN

T

VVakko İndirim 111

YYazmacı Necdet Danış 109Yilmaz Ipekçilik 89

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

AAlternative City Tours 111Ambassador Spa 90Artwalk Istanbul 146Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan

Hamamı 90

CCaferağa Medresesi 90Cağaloğlu Hamamı 90Çemberlitaş Hamamı 111Cooking Alaturka 89Cratus Tour 90

FFour Seasons Istanbul at

the Bosphorus 154

GGedikpaşa Hamamı 111

HHayriye Hanım Konağı 46

Iİstanbul Eats 89İstanbul on Food 146İstanbul Walks 89

KKılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı 146

MMihrimah Sultan

Hamamı 122

TTurkish Flavours 160

UUrban Adventures 90

4 SLEEPING

AAgora Guesthouse 180Ahmet Efendi Evi 180Akın House 182Arcadia Blue Hotel 182

BBahaus Hostel 180Bankerhan Hotel 183Big Apple Hostel 180Burckin Suites Hotel 182

CCasa di Bava 183Cheers Lighthouse 180

DDersaadet Hotel 181

FFour Seasons Istanbul at

Sultanahmet 182Four Seasons Istanbul at

the Bosphorus 184

HHamamhane 183Hotel Alilass 181Hotel Alp Guesthouse 179Hotel Amira 181Hotel Empress Zoe 181Hotel Ibrahim Pasha 181Hotel Nomade 180Hotel Peninsula 180Hotel Şebnem 179Hush Hostel Lounge 184Hush Hostel Moda 184

IIstanbul Place

Apartments 184

KKaraköy Rooms 183

LLouis Appartements 182

MMarmara Guesthouse 180Marmara Pera 184Metropolis Hostel 179

OOsman Han Hotel 181Ottoman Hotel Imperial 181

PPera Palace Hotel 184

RRapunzel Hostel 182

SSarı Konak Hotel 182Saruhan Hotel 182Sirkeci Mansion 181Sofa Hotel 184

TTomTom Suites 183

VVault Karaköy 183

WWitt Istanbul Hotel 183World House Hostel 183

ZZeynep Sultan Hotel 180

235IN

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Geographic

Population

Transport

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Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

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ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

İstanbul Maps

236 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Tesisleri ....................... B3 þ Shopping (p88) æ Sights (p77) 11 Güvenç Konyalı ............. A2 17 Özlem Tuna.................... A2 3 Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar 12 Hafız Mustafa ................ A2

Literature 13 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2 Ø Sports & Activities (p89) Museum Library......... B3 Matbah ..................(see 19) Caferağa 4 Aya İrini ..........................C4 14 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4 Medresesi ............(see 5) 5 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4 18 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3 6 Gülhane Park................. B3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p84)

7 İstanbul Museum of the Caferağa ÿ Sleeping (p179) History of Science Medresesi Çay 19 Ottoman Hotel & Technology in Bahçesi.................(see 5) Imperial .......................B4 Islam ............................ B2 15 Cihannüma ....................B4 20 Sirkeci Mansion............. B3 8 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4 16 Kybele Cafe....................B4 21 Zeynep Sultan Hotel..... B4

238

SULTANAH

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æ Top Sights (p54) ý Entertainment (p88) 1 Aya Sofya......................................................F1 37 Les Arts Turcs..............................................D1 2 Basilica Cistern ............................................E1

3 Blue Mosque................................................D4 þ Shopping (p88) 4 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts ...........C3 38 Cocoon......................................................... D5 39 Cocoon......................................................... E5 æ Sights (p77) 40 Galeri Kayseri...............................................B1 5 Arasta Bazaar..............................................E4 41 İznik Classics................................................F3 6 Aya Sofya Tombs........................................ F2 42 İznik Classics............................................... D5 7 Carpet Museum .......................................... G1 43 Jennifer's Hamam...................................... E5 8 Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III ..................... G1 44 Jennifer's Hamam......................................D6 9 Hippodrome ................................................C3 45 Khaftan ........................................................ C5 10 Imperial Gate............................................... G1 46 Mehmet Çetinkaya..................................... E4 11 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain.........................D2 47 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery........................ D5 12 Little Aya Sofya ...........................................A6 Nakkaş ................................................ (see 15) 13 Marmara University Republican 48 Yilmaz Ipekçilik ........................................... E4 Museum ....................................................B4

14 Museum of Great Palace Mosaics............ E5 Ø Sports & Activities (p89) 15 Nakkaş..........................................................C5 49 Ambassador Spa.........................................D1 16 Obelisk of Theodosius................................C4 50 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı ............F2 17 Rough-Stone Obelisk .................................C4 51 Cooking Alaturka........................................ F4 18 Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque .......A4 52 İstanbul Walks............................................. C5 19 Sphendone ..................................................C5

20 Spiral Column..............................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p179) 21 Sultanahmet Archaeological Park............ F2 53 Agora Guesthouse ..................................... F4 54 Ahmet Efendi Evi ........................................ F6 ú Eating (p82) 55 Arcadia Blue Hotel ..................................... B3 22 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı......................................... F6 56 Bahaus Hostel............................................. F4 23 Balıkçı Sabahattin.......................................G5 57 Big Apple Hostel ......................................... F4 Cheers Soul Kitchen.........................(see 58) 58 Cheers Lighthouse..................................... B6 24 Çiğdem Pastanesi....................................... B1 59 Dersaadet Hotel..........................................D6 25 Cooking Alaturka ........................................ F5 60 Four Seasons Istanbul at 26 Deraliye ........................................................ D1 Sultanahmet .............................................F3 27 Erol Lokantası.............................................. B1 61 Hanedan Hotel............................................G3 28 Hafız Mustafa ..............................................D2 62 Hotel Alilass................................................. F4 29 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu ...... C1 63 Hotel Alp Guesthouse................................G3 30 Palatium....................................................... F3 64 Hotel Amira ................................................. B6 31 Sedef İskender ............................................ B1 65 Hotel Empress Zoe.....................................G3 32 Tarihi Çeşme Restaurant...........................A6 66 Hotel Grand Peninsula...............................G4 33 Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim 67 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha .................................. B4 Usta ...........................................................D2 68 Hotel Nomade..............................................D1 69 Hotel Peninsula...........................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p84) 70 Hotel Şebnem .............................................G3 A'YA Rooftop Lounge.......................(see 60) 71 Marmara Guesthouse................................G3 34 Cafe Meşale .................................................E4 72 Metropolis Hostel.......................................G4 35 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi .............................E3 73 Osman Han Hotel .......................................G4 Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar .............(see 68) 74 Sarı Konak Hotel..........................................F5 36 Lâle Pastanesi .............................................D2

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Eæ Top Sights (p93) Ethem Tezçakar 1 Grand Bazaar ........................D5 Kahveci ........................(see 1) 2 Spice Bazaar .........................E2 34 Kahve Dünyası ...................... E5 3 Süleymaniye Mosque.......... C3 35 Lale Bahçesi ..........................B3 36 Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe......C2 æ Sights (p99) 37 Pandeli ................................... E2 4 Aqueduct of Valens ..............A3 Şark Kahvesi .................. (see 1) 5 Beyazıt Mosque ....................C5 38 Vefa Bozacısı.........................A3 6 Beyazıt Square......................C5

7 Beyazıt State Library............C5 þ Shopping (p108) 8 Beyazıt Tower....................... C4 Abdulla Natural 9 Büyük Valide Han................. D4 Products ...................... (see 1) 10 Church of the Monastery 39 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir........ E3 of Christ Pantokrator ........ A1 40 Altan Şekerleme ...................C2 11 Column of Constantine........E5 Arifoğlu.........................(see 42) 12 Galata Bridge......................... E1 41 Armine....................................D4 13 Hünkâr Kasrı..........................E3 42 Cankurtaran Gıda ................. E3 14 İstanbul University............... C3 Derviş ..............................(see 1) 15 Laleli Mosque ........................A5 Dhoku..............................(see 1) 16 Mahmutpaşa Hamamı .........E4 Epoque............................(see 1) 17 New Mosque..........................E2 EthniCon .........................(see 1) 18 Nuruosmaniye Mosque........E5 43 Hafız Mustafa........................ E3 19 Rüstem Paşa Mosque ......... D2 Koç Deri Leather............ (see 1) 20 Şehzade Mehmet Mosque...A4 44 Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi ..................................D3 ú Eating (p102) 45 Malatya Pazarı ...................... E3 Aynen Dürüm .................(see 1) Mehmet Kalmaz 21 Bahar Restaurant .................D5 Baharatçı ...................(see 51) 22 Bena Dondurmaları ..............E5 Mekhann .........................(see 1) 23 Bereket Döner.......................B2 Muhlis Günbattı ............. (see 1) 24 Develi Baklava ...................... D2 Necef Antik & Gold ........ (see 1) 25 Dönerci Şahin Usta...............E5 46 Nil Baharat.............................D2 26 Dürümcü Raif Usta ...............E4 47 Sahaflar Çarşısı.....................C5 Fes Cafe ..........................(see 1) Serhat Geridönmez....... (see 1) Gazientep Burç 48 Sevan Bıçakçı........................ E5 Ocakbaşı ......................(see 1) 49 Silk & Cashmere ................... E5 27 Hamdi Restaurant ............... D2 50 Sofa ........................................ E5 Havuzlu Restaurant.......(see 1) 51 Ucuzcular Baharat ............... E3 Kokoreççi Erdinç Ümit Berksoy ................. (see 1) Usta ...........................(see 25) 52 Vakko İndirim ........................ E3 28 Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı Yazmacı Necdet Ali Baba ...............................B3 Danış ............................(see 1) 29 Mavi Haliç Pidecisi ............... D2

30 Meşhur Dönercı Hacı Ø Sports & Activities (p111) Osman'ın Yeri .................... C4 53 Çemberlitaş Hamamı ........... E5 31 Pak Pide & Pizza Salonu ..... D3 54 Gedikpaşa Hamamı..............D6

û Drinking & Nightlife (p106) ÿ Sleeping (p182) 32 Darüzziyafe (Former Soup 55 Burckin Suites Hotel ............ E6 Kitchen)...............................B3 56 Hayriye Hanım Konağı .........C2 33 Erenler Nargile ve Çay 57 Saruhan Hotel .......................D7 Bahçesi................................D5

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æ Top Sights (p125) 25 5 Kat ............................................................. E6 1 İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5 26 Araf...............................................................C4 2 Pera Museum ..............................................A6 27 Cafe Grand Boulevard ............................... B5 28 CUE İstiklal ..................................................B6 æ Sights (p127) 29 Haspa...........................................................D4 3 Akbank Art...................................................D4 30 Indigo ...........................................................B6 4 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5 31 Kloster.......................................................... B5 5 Aya Triada....................................................E4 32 Manda Batmaz............................................B6 6 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................C5 33 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6 7 Fish Market..................................................B5 34 Solera...........................................................C6 8 Galatasaray Lycée ......................................C6 35 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5 9 Galerı Nev.....................................................B6 36 Topless Teras .............................................D4 10 İstanbul Arastırmaları Enstitüsü...............A6 37 Urban ...........................................................C5 11 Mixer.............................................................E4

12 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3 ý Entertainment (p142) 13 Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi ...........................B5 38 Başka Sinema............................................. C5 39 Garajistanbul...............................................B6 ú Eating (p131) 40 Jolly Joker.................................................... C5 14 Çukur Meyhane...........................................C5 41 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5 15 Çukurcuma 49 ............................................D5

16 Cuma ............................................................C6 þ Shopping (p143) 17 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4 42 A La Turca ................................................... D5 18 Hayvore........................................................C5 43 Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4 19 İnci Pastanesi ..............................................D4 44 Antijen Design.............................................C6 20 Kafe Ara........................................................B6 45 Hafız Mustafa.............................................. E4 21 Klemuri .........................................................D5 46 Mephisto...................................................... C5 Pera Café ............................................. (see 2) 47 Nahıl .............................................................D4 22 Savoy Pastanesi..........................................D6 48 Pandora .......................................................D4 23 Zencefil.........................................................D4 49 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5 24 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4 50 Reşat Balık Market..................................... B5 51 Seyahan....................................................... B5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p140) 52 Sütte Şarküteri ........................................... B5 360........................................................ (see 9) Üç Yıldız Şekerleme ......................... (see 52)

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æ Sights (p127) 46 Leb-i Derya ..................................................D2 1 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4 Mikla....................................................(see 81) 2 ARTER .......................................................... D1 47 Off Pera.........................................................C1 3 Azapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa 48 Old Java .......................................................D3 Mosque......................................................A4 49 Parantez ......................................................C2 4 Christ Church ..............................................D3 50 Ravouna 1906 ..............................................D1 5 Depo .............................................................E3 51 Ritim Galata.................................................C4 6 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2 52 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3 7 Galata Tower ...............................................C4 53 Smyrna ......................................................... F1 8 Galerist......................................................... C1 54 Unter ............................................................ E4 9 İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3

10 Museum of Innocence.................................E1 ý Entertainment (p142) 11 Museum of Turkish Jews...........................B3 55 Borusan Art..................................................C1 12 Pera Palace Hotel ....................................... C1 Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 6) 13 SALT Galata.................................................C4 56 Nardis Jazz Club.........................................C4 14 The Empire Project......................................F1 57 Salon ............................................................ B2

ú Eating (p131) þ Shopping (p143) 15 Aheste ..........................................................C2 58 Artrium.........................................................C3 16 Antiochia......................................................C2 59 Arzu Kaprol .................................................C3 17 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ............................... C1 60 Bou Art & Design........................................ E4 18 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1 61 Denizler Kitabevi..........................................D1 19 Cafe Privato.................................................C3 62 Eyüp Sabri Tuncer...................................... E4 20 Dandin .......................................................... F3 63 Hamm .......................................................... E2 21 Datlı Maya .....................................................F1 64 Hiç ................................................................D3 22 Demeti.......................................................... G1 65 İroni ..............................................................C4 23 Eleos .............................................................C2 66 La Cave Wine Shop ..................................... F1 24 Güney ...........................................................C3 67 Lale Plak.......................................................C2 25 Hamdi Restaurant Pera ............................. B1 68 Mabel Çikolata ............................................ D5 26 Helvetia Lokanta .........................................C2 69 Mariposa.......................................................G1 27 Jash............................................................... G1 70 Mekhann...................................................... E2 28 Journey .........................................................F1 Misela.................................................. (see 15) 29 Kahve 6 .........................................................F1 71 NYKS ............................................................D2 30 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5 72 Opus3a..........................................................G1 31 Karaköy Gümrük.........................................D5 73 Selda Okutan............................................... E4 Karaköy Lokantası............................(see 79) 74 Tezgah Alley.................................................C1 32 Mavra............................................................D3

33 Meze by Lemon Tree.................................. C1 Ø Sports & Activities (p146) Mikla ................................................... (see 81) 75 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı ................................ E3 34 Namlı Gurme ...............................................D5

35 Neolokal .......................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p182) 36 Sahrap..........................................................C2 76 Bankerhan Hotel.........................................C4 37 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2 77 Casa di Bava.................................................E1 78 Hamamhane ................................................E1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p140) 79 Karaköy Rooms .......................................... E4 38 Alex's Place.................................................. C1 80 Louis Appartements .................................. C3 Cihangir 21 .........................................(see 28) 81 Marmara Pera..............................................C1 39 Coffee Sapiens............................................ F3 Pera Palace Hotel..............................(see 12) 40 Dem ..............................................................D4 82 Rapunzel Hostel .........................................C4 41 Federal Coffee Company...........................C3 83 TomTom Suites...........................................D1 42 Fil...................................................................E4 84 Vault Karaköy.............................................. C5 43 Geyik..............................................................F1 85 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2 44 Karabatak ....................................................E4 86 World House Hostel ................................... C3 45 Kronotrop .....................................................F1

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11 Yıldız Şale ..................................................... E1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p153) Ø Sports & Activities (p154) æ Sights (p150) 20 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel ..............F3 Four Seasons Istanbul at the 2 Askeri Müze .................................................A2 ú Eating (p152) 21 Klein ..............................................................A3 Bosphorus ...................................... (see 28) 3 Çırağan Palace ............................................E3 12 Alancha ........................................................ C3 22 Love Dance Point ........................................A3

Fehime Sultan Yalı .............................. (see 4) 13 Banyan.........................................................G2 23 Malta Köşkü.................................................F2 ÿ Sleeping (p184) 4 Hatice Sultan Yalı....................................... H2 14 Foodie ...........................................................B1 24 Reina............................................................ H2 28 Four Seasons Istanbul at the 5 İstanbul Naval Museum .............................D4 15 Hünkar ......................................................... A2 25 Sortie ............................................................H1 Bosphorus ................................................ E4 6 National Palaces Painting Museum .........C4 16 Kantın........................................................... B3 29 Sofa Hotel....................................................B2 7 Ortaköy Mosque .........................................G3 17 Pare Baklava Bar ........................................ B2 þ Shopping (p154)

8 Palace Collections Museum......................D4 18 Saat Kule Cafe ............................................ C5 26 City's Nisantasi............................................B2

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11 Yıldız Şale ..................................................... E1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p153) Ø Sports & Activities (p154) æ Sights (p150) 20 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel ..............F3 Four Seasons Istanbul at the 2 Askeri Müze .................................................A2 ú Eating (p152) 21 Klein ..............................................................A3 Bosphorus ...................................... (see 28) 3 Çırağan Palace ............................................E3 12 Alancha ........................................................ C3 22 Love Dance Point ........................................A3

Fehime Sultan Yalı .............................. (see 4) 13 Banyan.........................................................G2 23 Malta Köşkü.................................................F2 ÿ Sleeping (p184) 4 Hatice Sultan Yalı....................................... H2 14 Foodie ...........................................................B1 24 Reina............................................................ H2 28 Four Seasons Istanbul at the 5 İstanbul Naval Museum .............................D4 15 Hünkar ......................................................... A2 25 Sortie ............................................................H1 Bosphorus ................................................ E4 6 National Palaces Painting Museum .........C4 16 Kantın........................................................... B3 29 Sofa Hotel....................................................B2 7 Ortaköy Mosque .........................................G3 17 Pare Baklava Bar ........................................ B2 þ Shopping (p154)

8 Palace Collections Museum......................D4 18 Saat Kule Cafe ............................................ C5 26 City's Nisantasi............................................B2

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4

253

KARI

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USEU

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The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem & the dream of Joseph

The census held for the enrolment for taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of Syria

Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to Jerusalem

Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the doctors in the temple

St TrachosSt AndronikusThe birth of JesusThe return of the Virgin Mary with JesusThe attempts of Satan to deceive JesusSt GeorgiosSt DemetriusJesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place

of the living’The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant

angelsThe wedding at Cana & the miraclesDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding

on horseback & the three Magi in audience with King Herod

Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away from a pursuing soldier

Remains of mosaicsDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe scene of King Herod’s investigation & a

guard standingThe mourning mothersNo mosaics leftA decorative medallionThe meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan

woman at the wellThe healing of a paralysed person by JesusKing Herod giving the order for the

massacre of the innocents & the execution thereof

Remains of mosaicsThe healing by Jesus of a young man with

an injured armThe healing by Jesus of leprous manTwenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus

(Genealogy of Christ)The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for

the restoration of her healthThe healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law

of St PeterThe healing by Jesus of a deaf person

1

2

3

4

5A5B678

9A9B10

11

1213A13B14

15

1617A17B18

19202122

2324

2526A

26B27

28

29

30

æMosaics

69 7256

7170

66

677576

7868

7374

77

65 6463 62 59 55 54

61

60 57

58

53

5251

50B

50C

36

34

38

39 40

353741B 41A

4442

43

45B 45A

50A4746

48

49A49B32 29

3327

31

30 2826A26B

25

23 24

21

22

20

19 18

17A17B

1516

14

13A13B

1112

10

9A9B8

67

5B 5A

24

31

G

H

I

J

Annex

Apse

PF K U O NL

M

E

D

C

B

A

Exit

Entrance

Nave

OuterNarthex

InnerNarthex

Parecclesion

KARİYE MUSEUM

254

KARIYE mUSEUm

Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the people

The healing by Jesus of two blind menThe Khalke Jesus & the praying VirginMary and the Baby Jesus surrounded by

her ancestorsJoachim in the mountains praying to have a

childNo mosaics leftThe breaking of the good news of the birth

of Jesus to Mary – The AnnunciationThe chief priest Zacchariah judging the

VirginMary & Joseph bidding each other farewellThe breaking of the good news of the birth

of Mary to AnneThe meeting of Anne & JoachimJoseph bringing the Virgin into his houseMary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the

blessing by the priestsGiving of the stick with young shoots

indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancéThe birth of the Virgin MaryThe first seven steps of the Virgin & below,

St PeterThe prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in

front of the 12 sticksThe presentation of Mary (age three) to the

temple by her parentsThe Virgin taking the skeins of wool to

weave the veil for the templeTheodore Metochites presenting a small

model of the church to JesusThe feeding of the Virgin by an angel &

below, St PeterRemains of mosaics – Directives given to

the Virgin at the templeThe Assumption of the VirginMary and the Baby JesusJesus in a standing posture, holding the

Bible in his hand

The AnastasisThe Church fathersThe raising (resurrection of the widow's

son)The healing of the daughter of JairusThe Virgin ElousaThe Last JudgementAbraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lapSt GeorgeRich man burning in Hell's fireThose entering Heaven & the Angel

Seraphim with the semi-nude good thiefDepiction of Andronikus II & his family &

the inscription & depiction above of Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia

The Bearing of the Ark of the CovenantSt DemetriusSt Theodore TiroMary & child Jesus with the 12 attending

angelsFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St

CosmosFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St

John of DamasceneFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St

TheophanesFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St

JosephSt Theodore StratelatesKing Solomon & the IsraelitesPlacement into the temple of the Ark of the

CovenantThe combat of an angel with the Asurians in

the outskirts of JerusalemSt Procopios, St Sabas StratelatesMoses in the bushesJacob's ladder & the angelsAaron & his sons carrying votive offerings,

in front of the altarSt Samonas & Guiras

31

323334

35

3637

38

3940

41A41B42

43

4445A

45B

46

47

48

49A

49B

50A50B50C

515253

54555657585960

61

62636465

66

67

68

69

707172

73

74757677

78

æ Frescoes

255

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