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739
Behind the Scenes
OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Abby Gershenzon, Alen & Andrea Lai, Alexandra Bliss, Allan Smith, Annette Stamatiadis, Cengiz Aksu, Christian Ulrich, Collado Marimar, Dirk van Norren, Francisco Buny, George Moss, Jenn Hicks, Jonathan Amies, Jordi Bibià, Joy Morrison, Judi Moriarty, Judy Ridge, Katherine Pezet, Kathleen Doherty, Laura van Eerten, Linde Barrera, Liz Killebrew, Lloyd Collyer, Matheus Ferreira, Mike Priaulx, Nadine Pilz, Pernille Sand, Rainer Feichter, Robert Burkill, Sarah Heretz, Sien Hasker, Simon Sy Lui
AUTHOR THANKSKorina MillerAn enormous thank you to Kirk and my mum and dad for minding the fort while I was away and making it possible for me to take this pro-ject on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, Monique and Simone, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank you to Brana at LP for her support and to my co-authors for their insights and cameraderie. A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the road – both locals and travellers – who
shared their stories, knowledge and enthusi-asm for Greece and were unwaveringly hospi-table despite such difficult times. And thanks to Bing the loyal coonhound for keeping me company while I burned the midnight oil.
Kate ArmstrongI am constantly humbled by the generosity of the Greek people in tough times. Efharisto poli, as always, to the Zotos family in Nafplion, to Yiannis at Alsos House for your knowledge and for sharing so much, to Alex Groth in Makrin-itsa for welcoming me regardless of time and distance, and to SB Barker for your Herculean friendship and driving skills. (I’ll never catch up on the Omega intake.) Finally, to Brana – you’re the best, as is the LP team and my fel-low team of authors.
Alexis AverbuckBoundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopou-lou for her INSPIRATION. She travels with me everywhere. Ryan Ver Berkmoes was a peachy road companion and an aces navigator on unmarked Cretan tracks. Thanks to Ramona for an insider’s take on Gavdos. Big cheer for Korina, Kate and Richard, who contributed so much to the Crete chapter. Applause for Bra-na: conscientious, informed and compassion-ate editor. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis, Anthy and Costas made Athens home. Efharisto poli to
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
those who welcomed me so warmly around Crete, the Saronic Gulf and Athens.
Carolyn BainEfharisto poli to Brana Vladisavljevic for a wonderful gig, and to Team Greece for ster-ling work. Across the Cyclades, hundreds of kind, generous locals (and visitors) answered my questions, engaged in conversation, fed me (oh god, did they feed me!) and showed me the meaning of heartwarming Greek filox-enia. Sincere thanks to all of them. Thanks to old friends Fiona and William Reeve for fun on Santorini, and to my favourite co-traveller, Kelvin Adams, for three weeks of ace com-pany and dedicated research of beaches and blue domes.
Michael Stamatios ClarkΕυχαριστω to all who made my ferry-hopping through the Greek islands a trip from the start. Special thanks to my splendiferous family, Janet, Melina and Alexandros, and to the editorial team of Brana Vladisavljevic and Korina Miller for cheerful support through-out. In the Sporades islands, many thanks to Chrysanthi, Amanda, Heather, Pakis, Alexandra, Georgos and Mahi, Makis, Bessie, Gisela; in the Aegean, thanks to Anastasia, Theofilos, the Fouskas family, Demetra and Vassilis, Naya and Petros, and Tasos, Marga-rita and Kostas.
Anita IsalskaThank you to every shepherd who mimed driving directions, and every guesthouse owner who ushered me inside for tsipouro. Big thanks especially to the team at Arta’s Archaeological Museum and Central Mac-edonia’s tourism department, and Helen Tarbet for translations and insights. Thanks also to Richard Waters and Trent Holden for seasoned authorly advice. Bear hugs to Joe Revill, Jessica Crouch and Jane Atkin for cheering me on. Heartfelt thank yous to Nor-mal Matt, for more than I can list.
Anna KaminskiI would like to thank Brana for entrusting me with these chapters, my fellow scribes and everyone who enhanced my journey, particularly my mum for sharing two weeks on the road with me and being such an able research assistant; Mina of Antares; Byron in Monemvasia; Maria and Panos in Dimitsana; George in Kalavryta; Nikos in Kardamyli; Alexis and Ryan on Hydra; and Alexander in Nafplio.
Greg WardThanks to the many wonderful people who make travelling in the Dodecanese such a pleasure, and thanks above all to my wife, Sam Cook, for sharing the fun.
Richard WatersSpecial thanks to Michael in Corfu and Leo-nidas at Pachis travel. Also to Lily Alicabiotis. There are many Greek people who made my journey easy at what were difficult times for them, so my thanks to all. Thanks too to Korina Miller and Alexis Averbuck, my coordi-nating authors, for all their help and patience, and to Brana Vladisavljevic, my destination ed, for sending me out there.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.
Illustrations pp64–5, pp428–9 by Javier Martinez Zarracina. Illustration pp190–1 by Michael Weldon.
Cover photograph: Parthenon, Athens; Alamy/Art Kowalsky
THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Greece guidebook was researched and written by Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Michael Stamatios Clark, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Greg Ward and Richard Waters. This
guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Brana VladisavljevicProduct Editors Kate James, Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Cam Ashley
Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Gabrielle Innes, Ali Lemer, Charlotte Orr, Susan PatersonCartographer Mick GarrettCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Claire Murphy, Kirsten Rawlings, Dianne
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
741©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AAbdera 270accommodation 20, 716-17,
see also individual locations
Achaïa 179-85Acrocorinth 133Acropolis 9, 63-9, 66, 8activities 45-8, see also
individual activitiesAdamas 398-9Aegean, see northeastern
Aegean islandsAegiali 372-3Aegina 296-300, 296Aegina Town 297-9Agapi 325Agathonisi 544-5Agia Galini 444Agia Kyriaki 218Agia Marina (Leros) 532-3Agia Marina (Spetses) 313Agia Paraskevi 313Agia Pelagia 673-4Agia Triada 431Agiasos 589Agii Anargyri 313Agion Oros 252-5Agios Ahillios 262Agios Antonios 508Agios Efstratios 595-6Agios Georgios (Agathonisi)
544-5Agios Georgios (Crete) 469Agios Germanos 262Agios Gordios 645Agios Ioannis 213-14Agios Kirykos 550-1Agios Konstantinos 204-5Agios Kyprianos 162Agios Nikitas 653Agios Nikolaos (Anafi) 391
Agios Nikolaos (Crete) 460-2, 460
Agios Nikolaos (Zakynthos) 668
Agios Pavlos 444Agios Stefanos 643air travel
airports 724to/from Greece 724-5within Greece 33, 728
alcohol 42-3, 362, see also wine
Alexander the Great 681-3Alexandroupoli 271-4Alika 161Alinda 534-5Alogoporos 218Alonnisos 622-7, 624Alopronia 392-3Ambelakia 206Amfissa 196Ammouliani 252Amorgos 369-74, 369Amphipolis 248Anafi 390-1Anakasia 211Anavatos 573Ancient Agora (Athens)
75-7, 23Ancient Corinth 132Ancient Delos 340-2Ancient Delphi 10,
189-93, 10Ancient Dion 256-7Ancient Eleusis 127Ancient Messini 167-9Ancient Mycenae 135-8Ancient Nemea 133-4Ancient Olympia 17, 173-7,
176, 17Andritsena 178-9Andros 317-21, 318Angistri 300Anilio 213Ano Mera 339Ano Meria 396Ano Pedina 285
Ano Petali 405Ano Syros 330Anogi 664Anogia 441-2Antia 612Antikythira 674, 670Antiparos 350-1, 344Antipaxi 649, 647Apella Beach 495Aphrodite 671Apiranthos 362Apollo Coast 122-5Apollonas 363Apollonia 404-5Arahova 196-7archaeological museums
Ancient Mycenae Museum 137
Andros Archaeological Museum 320
Archaeological Museum (Agios Nikolaos) 461
Archaeological Museum (Ancient Olympia) 177
Archaeological Museum (Arta) 290-1
Archaeological Museum (Astypalea) 522
Archaeological Museum (Chios) 571
Archaeological Museum (Fira) 381
Archaeological Museum (Florina) 261
Archaeological Museum (Fry) 497
Archaeological Museum (Halkida) 608
Archaeological Museum (Hania) 445
Archaeological Museum (Ikaria) 550
Archaeological Museum (Ioannina) 279
Archaeological Museum (Kalymnos) 526
Archaeological Museum (Kavala) 265
Archaeological Museum (Komotini) 270
Archaeological Museum (Kos) 515
Archaeological Museum (Lefkada) 651
Archaeological Museum (Mandraki) 509
Archaeological Museum (Mykonos) 334
Archaeological Museum (Myrina) 592-3
Archaeological Museum (Nafplio) 138
Archaeological Museum (Parikia) 345
Archaeological Museum (Rethymno) 437
Archaeological Museum (Rhodes) 475-6
Archaeological Museum (Samos) 561
Archaeological Museum (Samothraki) 599
Archaeological Museum (Sparta) 150
Archaeological Museum (Thessaloniki) 235
Archaeological Museum (Veria) 257
Archaeological Museum (Volos) 206
Archaeological Museum of Amfissa 196
Archaeological Museum of Argos 135
Archaeological Museum of Eretria 609
Archaeological Museum of Messenia 165
Archaeological Museum of Patras 180
Archaeological Museum of Pella 259
Archaeological Museum of Pythagorio 565
Heraklion Archaeological Museum 421-3, 433
Ierapetra Archaeological Museum 467
742
IND
EX A-B
archaeological museums continued
Marathon Archaeological Museum 126-7
National Archaeological Museum 84-6, 85
Sitia Archaeological Museum 465
Vergina Royal Tombs Museum 259
archaeological sites, see also Roman sites, temples & sanctuaries, tombs
Acropolis (Athens) 9, 63-9, 66, 8
Acropolis of Lindos 486Acropolis of Rhodes 481Agia Triada 433Alyki 604Amphipolis 248Ancient Agora (Athens)
75-7, 23Ancient Agora (Thasos)
602Ancient Akrotiri 388Ancient Corinth 132Ancient Delos 340-2Ancient Delphi 10, 189-
93, 10Ancient Dion 256-7Ancient Eleusis 127Ancient Ialysos 488Ancient Kamiros 488Ancient Lato 464Ancient Messini 167-8Ancient Mycenae 135-8Ancient Nemea 133-4Ancient Olympia 17,
173-7, 176, 17Ancient Sparta 149-50Ancient Thira 388Asklepieion 519Dimini 209Epidavros 143-5Gortyna 435Heraion 566Keramikos 83Knossos 15, 427-31, 707,
427, 15Malia 433Mikro Horio 506Mystras 152-3, 152Nestor’s Palace 172Nikopoli 289Paleokastro 509Pella 259
Sanctuary of the Great Gods 598-9, 563
Sesklo 209Zakros Palace 466
architecture 706-10area codes 19Areopoli 158-60Argolis 134-45Argos 135Argostili 657-9, 658Aristi 285Aristotle 695Arkadia 145-8Arki 543-4Armenistis 554-5Armeos 527-9Arta 289-91Artemonas 405art galleries, see galleriesarts 22, 701-5, see also
individual artsAsklepieion 519Assos 661Astakos 202Astris 603Astypalea 520-4, 521Atatürk 238, 687Athens 10, 52, 56-122, 60,
68, 70, 80, 86, 88, 10accommodation 56, 95-9activities 91-2cinemas 111climate 56courses 92drinking & nightlife 105-8entertainment 109-11festivals & events 91, 94-5food 56, 99-105gay & lesbian travellers
109highlights 57history 58-62itineraries 58medical services 114safety 114shopping 111-13sights 62-91tourist information 115tours 92-4travel to/from 115-16travel within 117-18walking tour 92, 93
Athos Peninsula (Secular Athos) 251-2, 251
ATMs 720Atsitsa 631August Moon Festival 26, 95austerity 676Avgonyma 573
Avlaki 643Avlemonas 674
BBarbati 643bargaining 21basketball 698bathrooms 722Batsi 319beaches
Agia Anna Beach 373Agios Nikolaos 461Anafi 391Andros 321Apella Beach 495Argostoli 657Astypalea 523-4Demir Ali Beach 272Eftalou Beach 586Egremni Beach 653Eristos Beach 507-8Falasarna 452-3Folegandros 397Fourni islands 556-7Halikia 457Halki 490-1Hania 448Ikaria 551Ios 378Iraklia 364Iraklio 423Kambos Beach 539-40Kasos 498Kavala 265Kea (Tzia) 413Kos 518Koufonisia 366Lipsi 543Livadi Beach 523Mandraki Beach 509Milos 401Mykonos 339Myrina 593Nafplio 139Naoussa 348Naxos 360Neapoli Beach 584Pahia Ammos 457Patmos 540Poros 303Potamos Beach 247Preveli Beach 443-4Psara 578Psili Ammos 567Rhodes 485, 486, 487Samos 567Samothraki 600Santorini (Thira) 388
Serifos 409Shipwreck Beach 668-9Sithonian Peninsula
249-50Skiathos 617Skopelos 622Thasos 605Triopetra 444Vaï 466Voidokilia Beach 172Zaga Beach 169
bears 712Benitses 644bicycle travel, see cyclingbirdwatching 713-14
Evros Delta 274Fanari wetlands 247Gialova Lagoon 171Panagia Islet 603Skala Kallonis 586, 587Tilos 506
boat travel 31-3, see also boat trips, cruising, island-hopping
to/from Greece 725-8within Greece 729
boat tripsAlonnisos 625Athos 254Corfu 639Diafani 495Folegandros 395Fry 497Ithaki 663Kastellorizo 499Mt Athos (Agion Oros)
254Naoussa 348Platanias 219Preveza 288Schinousa 365Skiathos 615Skopelos 619
books 386, 676, 702-3history 681, 694
border crossings 725Boukari 644bouzoukia 110budget 19bus travel 729-30business hours 722Byron, Lord 126, 200-1, 686Byzantine Athens 78-9Byzantine museums
Byzantine & Christian Museum 87
Byzantine Museum (Chios) 571
Byzantine Museum (Ioannina) 279
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
743IN
DEX B
-D Byzantine Museum
(Kastoria) 263Byzantine Museum
(Mytilini) 581Byzantine Museum
(Veria) 257Byzantine Museum
(Zakynthos) 667Byzantine & Post-
Byzantine Collection 445
Church of Parigoritissa- Byzantine Museum 290
Ecclesiastical (Byzan-tine) Museum 561
Museum of Byzantine & Post-Byzantine Art on Kythira 674
Museum of Byzantine Culture 235
Ccamping 716Cape Prasonisi 487-8Cape Sounion 125-6Cape Tenaro 161car travel 730-2Carnival 24
Patra 180Skyros 627
castles, see also fortressesAgios Georgios Kastro
659Amfissa Castle 196Byzantine-Genoese
Castle 584Castle of Faraklos 485Castle of Lykourgos
Logothetis 565Castle of Myrina 592Castle of Platamonas
257Castle of the Knights 514Gardiki Castle 645Its Kale 279Kastro (Astypalea) 522Kastro (Kythira) 671Kastro (Patra) 180Kavala Castle 265Knights of St John
Castle 491Koroni Castle 169Kritinia Castle 488Larissa Castle 135Nafpaktos Castle 199Neo Kastro 170Pandeli Castle 532Venetian Castle 291
cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals
cavesBlue Caves 668Cave of Antiparos 350Cave of Philoctetes 594Cave of Sykia Olymbi
576Cave of the Lakes 185Cave of the Sacred Icon
of Agios Giannis 364Cave of Zeus 360Didyma Caves 145Dikteon Cave 469Diros caves 160Ideon Cave 442Kastania Cave 156Korykeon Cave 193Matala ‘hippie’ caves 435Pelekita Cave 466Perama Cave 283Theopetra Cave 225
cell phones 18, 722central Greece 52, 186-227,
187accommodation 186climate 186food 186highlights 187
children, travel with 49-51Iraklio 423
Chios 569-76, 569Chios Town 571, 572churches & cathedrals
Agia Irini 553Agia Sofia 238Agios Andreas 180Agios Dimitrios 238Agios Eleftherios (Little
Metropolis) 79Agios Nikolaos
(Galaxidi) 198Agios Nikolaos
(Hania) 445Agios Nikolaos (Pelion)
214Agios Nikolaos
Rangavas 81Agios Spyridon
(Corfu) 637Agios Spyridon
(Napflio) 139Agios Spyridon
(Rethymno) 437Agios Therapon 581Agios Titos 423Agios Vlasios 286Athens Cathedral 77Cathedral of Agios
Nikolaos 272Cathedral of Christos
Elkomenos 155Chapel of Theoskepasti
552
Church of Agii Theodori 83
Church of Dionysios 667Church of Kapnikarea 77Church of Nikolaos
Orfanos 239Church of Osios David
239Church of Panagia
Evangelistria 323Church of Panagia Kera
463Church of Panagia of
Portaria 211Church of Sotira
Lykodimou 81Church of Taxiarhes
(Mani) 158Church of the
Assumption of the Virgin Mary 225
Church of the Holy Apostles 79
Church of the Panagia Achiropiitos 238
Church of the Panagia Vrefokratousa 589
Churches of the Taxiarhes (Chios) 575
Kimisis Tis Theotokou Cathedral 305
Metamorfosis Sotiros chapel 568
Mitropolis (Cathedral of Agios Dimitrios) 153
Paleohora 299Panagia Drosiani 361Panagia Ekatontapyliani
344Panagia Glykofilousa 586Panagia Paraportiani 334
cinema, see filmclimate 18, 24-6, see
also individual regionsclothing 20coffee 42Colossus of Rhodes 475columns 707consulates 718-19convents, see monasteries
& conventsCorfu 15, 634-46, 635Corfu Town 637-42,
638, 15Corinth 132-3Corinth Canal 133Corinthia 132-4costs 19, 717courses, see also individual
locationsart 619cooking 40, 389, 468
language 92, 328, 556yoga 348, 626
credit cards 720-1Crete 53, 414-69, 416
accommodation 414climate 414food 414highlights 416history 415
cruising 35-8, see also boat travel, boat trips, island-hopping
culture 676-7, 698-700ancient Greece 694-7
customs regulations 718Cyclades 12, 53, 314-13,
315accommodation 314climate 314food 314highlights 315history 316-17
Cycladic civilisation 678-93cycling 48, 728-9Cyprus 690
DDadia Forest Reserve 274Damouhari 214-15dance 705dangers, see safetyDelos 340-2, 354Delphi 10, 187-95, 192, 10Diafani 495-6Diakofti 674Diakofto-Kalavryta
Railway 184Diapondia Islands 643Didyma Caves 145Didymotiho 276Dimitsana 147-8Dimosari Gorge 613-14Dion 256-7Dipotamata Gorge 321Diros caves 160disabilities, travellers
with 723Distomo 198diving 45
Alonnisos 625Antiparos 350Athens 91Chios 575Corfu 643Fiskardo 661Hania 448Hora Sfakion 455Ios 376Kalymnos 526Lefkada 653
744
IND
EX D-H
diving continuedMilos 402Mykonos 341Paros 349Pythagorio 565Rethymno 437Rhodes 481Sithonian Peninsula 250Skiasthos 618Thasos 603
Dodecanese 54, 470-545, 471
accommodation 470climate 470food 470highlights 471history 472-3
dolphins 714domatia 716-17Donousa 368-9Doukades 645drinks 42-3, 362, see also
winedriving 730-2drugs 720Dryopida 411Durrell, Gerald 642Durrell, Lawrence 642DVDs 721
Eeconomy 676-7, 693Edessa 258-60Eftalou Beach 586Elafonisi (Crete) 459Elafonisi (Peloponnese) 157Elati 220electricity 718Elefsina 127Eleusis 127Elounda 462-3embassies 718-19Emborios (Halki) 489-90Emborios (Kalymnos)
529-30Emborios (Nisyros) 511-12emergencies 19Englouvi 654environmental issues 714Epanomi 247Epidavros 143-5Epiros 277-93, 277Eretria 609Ermioni 145Ermoupoli 328-31, 329
etiquette 21, 44Evdilos 552-3events 24-6Evia 54, 606-14, 607
accommodation 606climate 606food 606highlights 607
Evros Delta 274exchange rates 19Exogi 664
FFalasarna 452-3Faros (Ikaria) 551Faros (Sifnos) 406, 551ferries, see boat travel,
boat trips, cruisingfestivals 24-6film 676
festivals 26, 239, 240Filoti 360Finiki 494Fira 381-6, 382fires 711Fiskardo 661-2flora 712Florina 260-3Folegandros 393-7, 395folklore museums
Centre of Folk Art & Tradition 74
Folk Museum 268Folk Museum
Collection 357Folklore Museum
(Aegina) 297Folklore Museum
(Arta) 291Folklore Museum
(Kymi) 610Folklore Museum
(Menetes) 493Folklore Museum of
the Northern Sporades 623
Folklore Museum (Skopelos) 619
Folkloric Museum (Edessa) 260
Historic & Folklore Museum 534
Historical & Folk Art Museum 437
Historical & Folklore Museum 275
Korais Library & Argentis Folkloric Museum 571
Korgialenio History & Folklore Museum 657
Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum 628
Milos Folk & History Museum 400
Museum of Folk Art 211Museum of History &
Folk Art 611Mykonos Folklore
Museum 334Nautical & Folklore
Museum (Gialos) 502Nautical & Folklore
Museum (Kalymnos) 526
Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum 138
Fonias River 600food 21, 22-3, 39-44
children, catering for 50festivals 39
football 698forests 712fortresses, see also castles
Acrocorinth 133Bourtzi 138Byzantine Fortress
(Komotini) 270Castello Rosso 613Fortezza
(Rethymno) 436Fortress (Mytilini) 581Fortress of Agia
Mavra 651Fortress of Trikala 219Kales Fortress 467Kastro (Kalamata) 165Kastro (Methoni) 169Kastro (Milos) 400Kazarma 465Koules Venetian
Fortress 423Lamia Fortress 203Neo Frourio 637Palaio Frourio 637Palamidi Fortress 138Spinalonga Fortress 463Venetian Fortress 320
Fourni islands 548-50, 556-8, 548
Frangokastello 453Frikes 664Fry 497-8
GGaïos 647-8Galatas 145Galaxidi 197-9Galissas 331galleries, see also
museums
Art Space 388Athens 94Citronne 302Collection of Post-
Byzantine Icons 651Cultural Foundation of
Tinos 323Diexodos Museum-
Picture Gallery 201Fish & Olive 361Modern Greek Art
Museum 477Municipal Art Gallery
(Hania) 448Municipal Art Gallery
(Iraklio) 423Municipal Art Gallery of
Larissa 205-6Museum of
Contemporary Art (Andros) 319-20
Museum of Contemporary Art (Rethymno) 437
National Gallery - Alexandros Soutzos Museum 139
National Sculpture Gallery 90
Phos Gallery 361René Puaux
Exhibition 170Teriade Museum 581Theophilos Museum 581
gardens, see parks & gardens
Gavdos 458Gavrio 318-19gay travellers 719
Athens 109Mykonos 338
Gennadi 487geography 711-12Geraki 148Gerolimenas 161Gialos 501-4, 479Gialova 171-2Gialova Lagoon 171Glossa 621-2Gortyna 435Gournia 464Gramvousa Peninsula 452Greek language 734-8Gythio 157
HHadrian’s Arch 75Halki (Dodecanese) 489-91Halki (Naxos) 361Halkida 608-9
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
745IN
DEX H
-K Halkidiki Peninsula 248-55hammams
Athens 81Loutra 248Thessaloniki 238
Hania 445-51, 446health 719-20Hellenic Festival 26, 94-5Hephaistia 595Heraion 566Heraklion Archaeological
Museum 421-3, 433hiking 22, 47, 48
Andros 321Corfu 643Crete 448Delphi 193-4Diafani 495Fourni islands 556Ghria Vathra Canyon 599Ikaria 552Imbros Gorge 453Iraklio 424Ithaki 663Kalymnos 528Kardamyli 163Konitsa 287Menanlon Trail 146Meteora 224Mt Ypsario 605Nisyros 511Paros 345Pelion Peninsula 209Psara 578Samaria Gorge 454Santorini (Thira) 383Sifnos 404Skiathos 618southern Evia 613Steni 610Stoupa 163Tilos 506
history 678-93Alexander the Great
681-3ancient civilisations
678-9Balkan wars 687Byzantine empire 683-4civil war 689-90classical age 679-80geometric & Archaic
ages 679Hellenistic age 682Independence 685Ottoman rule 684-5Peloponnesian wars 681Persian wars 680-1Roman era 683
WWI 686-7WWII 688-9
hitching 732holidays 721Hora (Amorgos) 371-2Hora (Andros) 319-20Hora (Astypalea) 522-3Hora (Folegandros) 395-6Hora (Ios) 375-8Hora (Kythira) 671-2Hora (Kythnos) 410-11Hora (Mykonos) 334-9,
336, 5Hora (Naxos) 353-60, 356Hora (Patmos) 538-9Hora (Samothraki) 598Hora (Serifos) 408-9Hora Sfakion 453-6Hora (Tinos) 323-4horse riding
Corfu 643Hydra 305Kefallonia 657Naoussa 348Naxos 357
horses 631Horto 218hostels 717hot springs
Agios Kirykos 550Lamia 203Lefkada 551Loutra 411Loutra (Therma) 599Polyhnitos 590-1Therma 551
Hristos Rahes 553-4Hydra 14, 303-9, 304, 14Hydra Town 304-8
IIalysos 488Ierapetra 467-8Igoumenitsa 290Ikaria 548-58, 548Imbros Gorge 453immigration 677, 699, 724Inousses 576-7insurance
health 720vehicle 728
internet access 720internet resources 19
children, travel with 51government advice 718history 693
Ioannina 279-82, 280Ionian Islands 54, 632-74,
633, 46accommodation 632climate 632food 632highlights 633history 634
Ios 374-8, 374Ioulida 412-13Iraklia 364-5Iraklio 419-27, 420Ireon 566island-hopping 30-4, 316,
see also boat travel, boat trips, cruising
Ithaki 662-5Iti National Park 204Itilo 158itineraries 27-9, 34, see
also walking tours
JJewish heritage
Athens 81Hania 448Rhodes 477Thessaloniki 238, 239
KKalamakia 626Kalamata 165-7, 166Kalambaka 225-6Kalami 643Kalamitsa 630-1Kalamitsi 249Kalavryta 182-5Kallithea 248Kalymnos 524-30, 525Kalyviani 452Kamares 403-4Kamari (Kos) 520Kamari (Santorini) 388Kamariotissa 597-8Kambia 574Kambos (Ikaria) 553Kambos (Timos) 325Kamini 309Kamiros 488Kapsali 672-3Karavostamo 555-6Karavostasis 394-5Kardamyla 574Kardamyli 163-5Kardiani 325Karlovasi 567-8Karpathos 491-6, 492Karpenisi 201-2Karya 654Karystos 612-13Kasos 496-8, 496
Kassandra Peninsula 248-9Kassiopi 643Kastania Cave 156Kastellorizo 498-500Kastoria 263-4Kastraki 226-7Kastro (Sifnos) 405-6Kastro (Sikinos) 392-3Katapola 370-1Kathisma 653Kato Pedin 285Kato Zakros 466-7Kattavia 487Kavala 265-6Kea (Tzia) 411-13, 412Kefallonia 655-62, 656Kefalos 520Kemal, Mustafa 238Kendros 368Keramikos 83Keri 668Kiliomeno 668Kimolos 402Kini Beach 331Kioni 665Kionia 324Kissamos (Kastelli) 451-2Kissos 213Kita 160-1kitesurfing 47kitron 362Kleftiko 399, 354Klima 401Klisova Lagoon 201Knossos 15, 427-31, 707,
427, 15Kokkari 567, 563Komotini 270-1Kondouros 413Konitsa 287-8Kontias 594Korissia 411-12Koroni 169Koryshades 202Kos 512-20, 514Kos Town 513-18, 516Koufonisia 366-8Kranidi 145Krithoni 534-5Kritsa 463Krokos 325Ktikados 325Kyllini 179Kymi 610Kynouria 148Kyprinos 276Kythira 669-74, 670Kythnos 409-11, 409
746
IND
EX L- M
LLagia 162Lakka 648-9Lakki 533-4Lakones 645Lakonia 148-57Lakonian Mani 157-62Lamia 203-4Langada (Amorgos) 373Langada (Chios) 574Langada Pass 154language 734-8Larissa 205-6Lasithi Plateau 468-9Lato 464Lavrio 122Lefkada (Ikaria) 551Lefkada (Ionian Islands)
649-54, 650Lefkada Town 651-2Lefkes 349Lefkimmi 644Lefkos 494legal matters 720Leonidio 148Leros 530-5, 531lesbian travellers 719
Athens 109Skala Eressou 588
Lesvos (Mytilini) 17, 579-91, 580
Lesvos Petrified Forest 587, 563
Limenaria 603Limenas Mesta 576Limeni 160Limni 611-12Limnia 574Limnos 591-5, 592Lindos 485-7Lionas 363Lipsi 540-3, 542Lipsi Village 541-3literature, see booksLitohoro 255-6Livadi (Astypalea) 523Livadi (Serifos) 407-8Livadia 506-7local tranport 732-3Loggos 648Louha 668Loutra (Kythos) 411Loutra Edipsou 610-11Loutra (Therma) 599-600
Loutraki 621-2Loutro 456
MMacedonia 231-66, 230Magazia (Paxi) 648Magazia (Skyros) 630Makrinitsa 211-12Malia 431Mandraki (Hydra) 309Mandraki (Nisyros) 508-10Mani, the 16, 157-65Manolates 567Mantamados 584maps 720Marathi 544Marathon 126-7Marathounda 504Maries 603maritime museums
Aegean Maritime Museum 334
Hellenic Maritime Museum 118
Maritime Museum of Crete 445
Maritime Museum 386Nautical & Folklore
Museum (Gialos) 502Nautical & Folklore
Museum (Kalymnos) 526
Nautical Historical Museum 198
Nautical Museum of Inousses 576
Marmari 161Marmaro 574Masouri 527-9Mastihari 519-20Mastihohoria 574Matala 435-6measures 721medical services 719Megali Petra 653Megalo Horio
(Agathonisi) 545Megalo Horio
(Karpenisi) 202Megalo Horio (Tilos) 507Megalo Papingo 286Megalohori 387Meganisi 654-5Melanes 362Melinda 590Menalon Trail 146Menetes 493Merihas 410Mersini 368Messini 167-9
Messinia 165-72Messinian Mani 162-5Messolongi 200-1Mesta 574-6Metaxas, Ioannis 688Meteora 9, 221-4, 222, 9Methoni 169-70Metochi 145Metsovo 278Mezapos 160Mikro Horio (Karpenisi) 202Mikro Horio (Tilos) 506Mikro Papingo 286Milies 216-17Milina 218Milos 397-402, 397Minoan sites 431Minoans 678-9, 706mobile phones 18, 722Mohlos 464Molos 630Molyvos (Mithymna) 584-6monasteries & convents
Agios Oros 252-5Convent of Galataki 611Convent of Pantanassa
153Holy Monastery of
Zoodohos Pigi 539Monastery of Kimisis
Theotokou 578Monastery of St John the
Theologian 538Monastery of the
Apocalypse 538-9Monastery of
Vlatadon 239Monastery of Zyrgou 252Moni Agia Paraskevi 285Moni Agias Lavras 185Moni Agias Triados 223Moni Agias Varvaras
Rousanou 223, 9Moni Agiou Gerasimou
659Moni Agiou Nikolaou
222, 9Moni Agiou Stefanou 223Moni Agiou Vissarion
220Moni Arhangelou 605Moni Arkadiou 440-1Moni Chrysopigi 406Moni Dafniou 79Moni Episkopis 392Moni Evaggelistria 285Moni Evangelistrias
(Skiathos) 617Moni Evangelistrias
(Skopelos) 622
Moni Faneromenis 651Moni Filanthropinon
282-3Moni Hozoviotissis 372,
354Moni Kaisarianis 79Moni Kalamiotissas 391Moni Mega Spileo 185Moni Megalou
Meteorou 223Moni Metamorfosis 198Moni Osios Loukas 197Moni Panagias Elonis 148Moni Panagias
Kounistras 617-18Moni Panagias
Proussiotissas 202Moni Panagias Spilianis
(Mandraki) 509Moni Panagias Spilianis
(Vathy) 565Moni Preveli 443Moni Profiti Ilia
(Amfissa) 196Moni Profiti Ilia
(Hydra) 309Moni Taxiarhon 584Moni Taxiarhou Mihail
Panormiti 504Moni Theotokou 645Moni Toplou 466Moni Varlaam 223Moni Xenofondos 255, 16Moni Zoödohou Pigis
303Mt Athos (Agion Oros)
252-5Nea Moni 573Vrontokhion
Monastery 153Monemvasia 154-6money 18, 19, 21, 720-1
discount cards 718Moni Arkadiou 440-1Moni Dafniou 79Moni Hozoviotissis 372,
354Moni Kaisarianis 79Moni Osios Loukas 197Moni Toplou 466monk seals 625Monodendri 285Monolithos 488mosques
Bayezit’s Mosque 276Fethiye Mosque 199Koursoun Tzami 219Mosque of Süleyman 477Neratzes Mosque 437Yeni Tzami 581
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
747IN
DEX M
-P motorcycle travel 730-2Moudros 594Mountanistika 161Mouressi 214-15Mt Athos 252-5Mt Ohi 613Mt Olympus 256Mt Parnitha National
Park 126Mt Psiloritis 442museums 22, see also
archaeological museums, Byzantine museums, folklore museums, galleries, maritime museums
Acropolis Museum 73Ali Pasha Museum 282Antivouniotissa Museum
637Art of Silk Museum 275Bakratsa Mansion
Museum 619Bath House of the
Winds 81Benaki Museum 86Benaki Museum Pireos
Annexe 83Botsari Museum 199Bouboulina’s Museum
311Christos Capralos
Museum 299Cinema Museum 238Citrus Memories
Museum 573Della Rocca-Barozzi
Venetian Museum 353Delphi Museum 193Ecclesiastical Art Museum
(Alexandropouli) 272Ecclesiastical Museum
(Komotini) 270-1Ecclesiastical Museum of
Milos 399Eggares Olive Press 362Epigraphical Museum 74Ethnological Museum of
Thrace 272Focas-Kosmetatos
Foundation 657Giustiniani Palace
Museum 571Herakleidon Museum 83Historical Archives
Museum of Hydra 305Historical Museum of
Crete 423Industrial Museum of
Ermoupoli 328Jewish Museum
(Athens) 81
Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki 238
Jewish Synagogue Museum 477
Kanellopoulos Museum 81
Komboloi Museum 138-9Megaro Gyzi
Museum 382Milos Mining
Museum 399Mineralogical
Museum 122Mitropolis Museum 357Museum House of
Yannoulis Halepas 325Museum of Asian Art 637Museum of Cretan
Ethnology 436Museum of Cycladic
Art 86-7Museum of Decorative
Arts 477Museum of Greek
Gastronomy 84-6Museum of Greek Popu-
lar Instruments 74Museum of Hellenic
Culture 225Museum of History &
Art 201Museum of Industrial
Olive Oil Production 585
Museum of Islamic Art 84Museum of Marble
Crafts 325Museum of Natural
History 225Museum of
Nicopolis 289Museum of Prehistoric
Thera 381-2Museum of Samos
Wines 561Museum of Solomos 667Museum of the City of
Volos 206-7Museum of the History
of the Olympic Games in Antiquity 177
Museum of the Kalavryta Holocaust 183
Museum of the Macedo-nian Struggle 236
Museum of the Memorial of the Refugees of 1922 584
Museum of the Olive 216Museum of the Olive &
Greek Olive Oil 149National Historical
Museum 83
National Museum of Contemporary Art 75
Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest 587
Old Radio Museum 218Open Air Water Power
Museum 147Papadiamanti House
Museum 615Paragaea Olive Oil
Museum 292Pikoulakis Tower House
Museum 158Santozeum 382Spetses Museum 311Theophilos Museum 211Thessaloniki Museum of
Photography 238Tobacco Museum 265Tsalapatas Brickworks
Museum 206Vrana Olive-Press
Museum 585Vrisa Natural History
Museum 590War Museum 533-4
music 23, 703-5bouzoukia 110festivals 26, 95, 139,
240, 549rembetika 704
Mycenae 135-8Mykonos 331-41, 332Mylopotamos 215-16Mylopotas 375-8Myrina 592-4Myrties 527-9Myrtos 468Mystras 151-4, 152mythology 613, 695-7Mytilini Town 581-4, 582
NNafpaktos 199-200Nafplio 138-43, 140Nanou 504Naoussa 348-9Nas 554National Archaeological
Museum 84-6, 85national parks &
reserves 713Dadia Forest Reserve
274-5Iti National Park 204Mt Parnitha National
Park 126National Marine Park of
Alonnisos Northern Sporades 623-4
Parnassos National Park 196
Vikos-Aoös National Park 284-5
nature 711-14Naxos 351-63, 351Nea Kameni 390Neapoli 156-7Nekromanteio of Afyra 293Nemea 133-4Neos Marmaras 249Neraidochori 220newspapers 721Nikea 512Nikiti 249Nikopoli 289Nimborios 504Nisyros 508-12, 509, 479northeastern Aegean
islands 54, 546-605, 547
accommodation 546climate 546food 546highlights 547
northern Greece 53, 228-93, 229
accommodation 228climate 228food 228highlights 229
Nydri 652
OOia 386-7, 354Old Alonnisos 626olives 165, 216, 585Olymbi 576Olymbos 495, 479Olympia 17, 173-7, 176, 17Olympic games 62, 173-7opening hours 722Orestiada 275-6Ormos 375-8Ormos Marathokambou
567Otzias 413Ouranoupoli 251-2ouzo 42
Ppalaces, see also archaeo-
logical sites, castlesAchillion Palace 644Palace of St Michael &
St George 637Palace of the Grand
Master 476Palamari 631
748
IND
EX P-S
Paleohora 457-9Paleokastritsa 645Paleokastro
(Kastellorizo) 499Paleokastro (Mandraki) 509Paleokastro (Messinia) 172Paleopoli (Andros) 321Paleopoli (Kythira) 674Pali 512Palia Kameni 390Paliki Peninsula 660Palio Trikeri 218Panagia 604Pandeli 533Panormitis 504Panormos 325Papadopoulos, Georgios 691Papandreou, Andreas 691Papandreou, Georgios 690-1Papingo 286-7Paralia Kymis 610Parga 291-3Parikia 343-7, 346parks & gardens, see
also national parks & reserves
Areopagus Hill 75Filopappou Hill 74-5Garden of the Heroes 200Hill of the Pnyx 75National Gardens 82Serpentine Organic
Garden 215Waterfalls Park 259-60Zappeio Gardens 82
Parnassos National Park 196Paros 342-50, 344Parthenon 67-9passports 724Patitiri 623-6Patmos 12, 535-40, 536, 12Patra (Patras) 179-82, 181Pausanias 144Paxi 646-9, 647Peania 127Pedi 504Pefkohori 248Pefkoulia 653Pelekas 645Pelion Peninsula 209-19,
210Pella 259Peloponnese 52, 128-85,
130accommodation 128
climate 128food 128highlights 130history 129
Pendalofos 276Perdika 299-300Perissa 388-90Pertouli 220Petra 586Petrota 276Phaestos 431philosophers 694-5phonecards 722photography 721Pigadia 491-3Pinakates 216Piraeus 118-21, 119Plaka 400-1Plaka Litohoro 255-6Plakias 442-3planning 20-1
budgeting 19calendar of events 24-6children 49-51Greece basics 18-19Greece’s regions 52-4internet resources 19island-hopping 30-1itineraries 27-9, 34travel seasons 18, 24-6
Platanias 218-19Platanos 532-3Plato 694Platys Gialos 406Poles 413Poliohni 594politics 676-7, 692-3Pollonia 401Polyhrono 248Polyrrinia 452Pomakohoria 269, 270population 677Poros 301-3, 301Poros Town 302-3Portaria 211Porto Heli 145Porto Kagio 161Porto Katsiki 653Posidonia 331Potamos 673-4Pothia 526-7Pouri 212Prespa Lakes 262Preveza 288-9Psara 577-9Psarades 262Psili Ammos 567Psyhro 469
public holidays 721Pyli 220, 519Pylos 170-1Pyrgi 574, 563Pyrgos 325, 387, 567Pyrgos Dirou 160Pythagoras 558Pythagorio 564-6
RRafina 121-2religion 677, 700rembetika 704reserves, see national
parks & reservesRethymno 436-40, 438,
433Rhodes 11, 473-89, 472, 11Rhodes Town 475-85, 476,
480, 479Rina 530road rules 732rock climbing
Kalymnos 528Meteora 224
Roman sites, see also archaeological sites, temples & sanctuaries, tombs
Ancient Corinth 132-3Argos 135Hadrian’s Arch 75Hadrian’s Library 77Roman Agora 77Roman baths 82-3Thessaloniki 236-8
Rousoum Gialos 626
Ssafety 50, 114, 719, 721sailing 36Samaria Gorge 13, 454,
13, 46Sami 660-1Samos 558-68, 560Samothraki 596-600, 597San Michalis 331Sanctuary of the Great
Gods 598-9, 563Sangri 361Santorini (Thira) 10, 378-
90, 379, 11, 23Sappho 587, 589Sarakiniko 401Saronic Gulf Islands 53,
294-313, 295accommodation 294climate 294food 294
highlights 295Sarti 249scams, see safetySchinousa 365-6sculpture 695senior travellers 718Serifos 406-7, 408Siana 488Sifnos 402-6, 405Sigri 587Sikinos 392-3, 393Sithonian Peninsula 249-51Sitia 464-6Skala (Angistri) 300Skala (Astypalea) 522-3Skala Eresou 587-9Skala Kallonis 587Skala Kamirou 488Skala Marion 603Skala (Patmos) 536-8Skala Polyhnitou 591Skala Prinou 603Skiathos 614-18, 615Skiathos Town 615-17skiing 48
Florina 261Metsovo 278Mt Helmos 185Mt Vermio 258
Skopelos 618-22, 620Skopelos Town 619-21Skyrian horses 631Skyros 627-31, 628Skyros Town 627-9Small Cyclades 363-9, 363smoking 721-2snakes 713snorkelling 45, see
also divingsnowboarding 48soccer 698Socrates 681, 682, 694Sougia 456-7Sparta 148-51, 150Spartans 149Spartohori 654Spartylas 642Spetses 309-13, 310Spetses Town 311-13Spili 442, 2Spinalonga Island 463,
433Sporades 54, 606-7, 614-31,
607accommodation 606climate 606food 606highlights 607
sports 698
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
749IN
DEX S
-Z Stavros (Donousa) 368Stavros (Ithaki) 664Stemnitsa 146-7Steni 609-10Steni Vala 626Sterea Ellada 187-205, 188Stoupa 162-3Strinylas 642surfing 47Symi 500-4synagogues
Etz Hayyim Synagogue 448
Kahal Shalom Synagogue 477
Monastirioton 239Syriza 676-7Syros 326-31, 327
TTarabados 325Telendos 529telephone services 18, 722temples & sanctuaries,
see also archaeological sites, Roman sites, tombs
Parthenon 67-9Sacred Precinct of
Zeus 173Sanctuaries of the
Foreign Gods 342Sanctuary of Apollo
189-92Sanctuary of Artemis 127Sanctuary of Asclepius
(Ancient Messini) 168Sanctuary of Asclepius
(Epidavros) 144Sanctuary of Athena
Pronea 193Sanctuary of the Great
Gods 598-9, 563Sanctuary of the
Kabeiroi 594Sanctuary of Zeus 133Temple of Aphaia 299Temple of Apollo
(Aegina) 297Temple of Apollo (Naxos)
353, 2Temple of Athena Nike 67Temple of Demeter 361Temple of Epicurean
Apollo at Vasses 178Temple of Hera 176Temple of Olympian
Zeus 75Temple of Poseidon
(Cape Sounion) 125-6
Temple of Poseidon (Poros) 303
Thasos 600-5, 601Thasos (Limenas) 602The Island (To Nisi) 282-3theatre 694
festivals 95, 549Theologos 603Therma 551Thermopylae 203Thessaloniki 13, 231-47,
232-3, 13accommodation 240-1drinking & nightlife 242-5entertainment 245food 241-2history 235medical services 245shopping 245sights 235-9tourist information 245transport to/from 246-7transport within 247walking tour 236, 236
Thessaloniki International Film Festival 26
Thessaly 205-27, 205Thirasia 390Thiva (Thebes) 189Tholaria 373Thrace 266-76, 267Tilos 504-8, 505time 18, 722Tinos 321-5, 322tipping 21, 38, 721Tiryns 143toilets 722tombs
Lycian tomb 499Marathon Battlefield &
Tomb 126Mausoleum of
Inousses 577Treasury of Atreus
(Agamemnon’s Tomb) 137
tourist information 722-3, see also individual locations
Tourlida 201tours 733, see also
individual locationstower houses 159Toxotes 270Tragaea 360train travel
Diakofto-Kalavryta Railway 184
Parga Tour Train 292To Trenaki 217to/from Greece 725within Greece 733
transport to/from Greece 724-8
transport within Greece 728-33
travellers cheques 721trekking, see hikingTrikala 219-21Triopetra 444Tris Boukes Bay 631Trypi 154Trypiti (Athos
Peninsula) 252Trypiti (Milos) 400-1Tsagarada 215tsipouradika 207Tsipras, Alex 676-7Turkey, travel to/from
559turtles 714Tzermiado 469
Vvacations 721Vaï 466Vale of Tembi 206Vari Bay 331Vasiliki 652-3Vasilikos Peninsula 668Vatera 590-1Vathia 161Vathy (Ithaki) 663-4Vathy (Samos) 560-4, 564Vathy (Sifnos) 406Vathys 530vegetarian travellers 43Venizelos, Eleftherios
686-8Vergina 259Veria 257-8Vikos Gorge 284-5, 2, 15Vikos-Aoös National Park
284-5visas 18, 723visual arts 22, 701-2Vlyhos 309volcanoes
Nisyros 511, 2Santorini (Thira) 378-90
Volimes 668Volissos 574Volos 206-9volunteering 723Votsalakia 567
Votsi 626Vourliotes 567Vourvoulos 387Vouvourou 249Vravrona 127Vromolithos 533Vrondero 262Vrontados 573Vroukounda 495Vyzitsa 216
Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours
Athens 92, 92Thessaloniki 236, 236
water 720waterskiing 47weather 18, 24-6, see
also individual regionswebsites, see internet
resourcesweights 721white-water rafting 47-8wildlife 712-14windsurfing 45-7wine 42-3
Iraklio Wine Country 434
Kefallonia 659Nemea 134Santorini (Thira) 389
wolves 712-13women travellers 723work 723
XXanthi 268-9Xirokambos 534Xylokeriza 313Xylouris, Nikos 441
Yyachting 36
ZZagora 212-13Zagorohoria 15Zagorohoria, the 15, 283-7,
284, 5Zakros 466-7Zakros Gorge 466Zakynthos 665-9, 666Zakynthos Town 667-8Zaros 434-5Zia 519
750
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
Tube station
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
Michael Stamatios ClarkNortheastern Aegean Islands, Evia & the Sporades Michael’s Greek roots go back to the village of Karavostamo on the Aegean island of Ikaria, home of his maternal grandparents who emigrated to America. His first trip to Greece was as a deck-hand aboard a Greek freighter, trading English lessons for Greek over wine and backgammon. Since then, he has become a Greek citizen, visits the islands often and enjoys rembetika and retsina. He has also worked on Lonely Planet guides to
Burma (Myanmar), New York and Hawaii.
Anita Isalska Northern Greece Anita is a travel journalist, editor and freelance copywriter. Formerly a digital editor at Lonely Planet’s London office, she flew the coop to write the world. As well as Lonely Planet, Anita writes for CNN Travel, Rough Guides, BBC Travel, Escapism and more, especially about the Balkans and East-ern Europe, adventure and wildlife travel. She’s never happier than when roaming Soviet-era ruins or researching macabre folklore. Check out more of her writing
on www.anitaisalska.com. Anita also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter.
Anna Kaminski Peloponnese The product of a Classical education and a Hellenophile since dis-covering Myths and Legends of Ancient Greece at the age of five, Anna has been coming back to Greece repeatedly since a memorable school trip back in 1997 to explore ancient ruins, hike its mountains and dive in the Aegean. She was thrilled to return to the myth-rich Peloponnese to explore its furthest corners and firmly believes that southern Mani is one of the most remarkable places on earth. Anna
also wrote the Ancient Greek Culture chapter.
Greg Ward Dodecanese Having first visited Greece as an InterRailing teenager, Greg Ward (www.gregward.info) has been returning ever since, and honeymooned on Symi. He has written books and articles about the Greek islands for many publishers and newspapers.
Richard Waters Ionian Islands Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about Greece for the Daily Telegraph, the Independent and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds but his spiritual home is in the islands of Greece where he first went as a boy in 1974. Since then he has been more than 20 times, and is most at home sat in a kafenio talking about myths, digging into freshly caught calamari and island hopping. As ever his admiration goes out to the people
of Greece who, despite unimaginably difficult times, remain among the friendliest on the planet.
Read more about Anita at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anitatravels
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98312th edition – March 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 859 4© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Korina Miller Coordinating Author, Crete Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then, she’s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seaside kafeneio. Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies
and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach. Korina also wrote Plan Your Trip (except for Outdoor Activities), Understand Greece (except for Ancient Greek Culture) and Survival Guide.
Kate ArmstrongCentral Greece Having studied history and fine arts, Kate headed to Greece aeons ago to view a kouros, and fell in love with the country. The Pythia at Delphi told her she’d return; she has, frequently. For this edition she climbed rock pin-nacles at Meteora and tackled donkey paths in the Pelion. She devoured kilos of seafood, several sheep, thousands of kilometres and was constantly astonished by the Aphrodite-style she received mid-Greece crisis.
Alexis AverbuckAthens & Around, Crete, Saronic Gulf Islands Alexis lives in Hydra, takes regular reverse R&R in Athens, and makes any excuse she can to travel the isolated back roads of her adopted land. She is committed to dispelling the stereotype that Greece is simply a string of sandy beaches. A travel writer for two decades, Alex-is has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia and the Americas. She’s also a painter –
visit www.alexisaverbuck.com.
Carolyn BainCyclades Melbourne-born Carolyn worked on her first guidebook for Lonely Planet back in 2000, and it involved some serious island-hopping around Greece. There began two addictions: writing guidebooks, and the Greek islands. Fifteen years later, this trip fed those addictions over a glorious two-month stint, in which Carolyn visited all the Cyclades. She has now visited 50 Greek islands – and has way too many favourites. Read more at carolynbain.com.au.
OUR WRITERS
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Read more about Alexis at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/alexisaverbuck
Read more about Kate at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/kate_armstrong
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