Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenesmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/panama-7-index.pdf · Melinda Doughty, Renee Brown, Tony Adam, Victoria Budzisch, Will Martin WRITER THANKS Carolyn

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310310

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alejandro Del Bosco, Andris Krumins, Anny Ruesink, Åsa Lidmark, Aylin Dincer, Eesha Williams, Elisa Rebella, Erika Scanu, Heikki Kivinen, Heko Köster, Jane Johnson, John Hardwick, Karen Okamoto, Kristin Panke, Kryssandra Heslop, Lee Scott, Lena Wendt, M Turnbull, Maribel Pinilla, Martin Dragt, Melinda Doughty, Renee Brown, Tony Adam, Victoria Budzisch, Will Martin

WRITER THANKSCarolyn McCarthyI am very indebted to the many locals, experts and travelers who shared their version of paradise. Ignacio and Judit were Caribbean dream captains. For assistance in the Darién, I’m indebted to Segundo Sugasti, Beatriz Schmidt and Maija Meri. Thanks to Sandra |Eleta for her hospitality. Abrazos to the Bethels, Catherine, Dave and Ellen for their exceptional company. Next time, el Camino Real. Hasta la proxima!

Steve FallonMuchas gracias to those who offered assis-tance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way, especially to my ATV-cruising partner, Carla Rankin, of Bocas del Toro town. Other helpful folk I met along the way included Juan José Calvache in Panama City; Loes Roos and Kees Groenendijk on Isla de Coiba and the Veraguas Sunset Coast; Alberto Young Lim in El Valle; Jane Walker and Barry Robbins in Boquete; and Brian and Amy Wilcox on Isla San Cristóbal. Thanks to co-writer Carolyn McCarthy for all the right contacts and to editor Bailey Johnson, who got me out of a mess more than once. My great love goes to my partner, Michael Rothschild, who can’t believe I’m still alive after my encounter with that green-and-black poison-dart frog.

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes

311BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Woman wearing decorative Guna arm beads, Bruce Yuanyue Bi / Getty Images ©

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Panama guidebook was researched and written by Steve Fallon and Carolyn McCarthy. The previous two editions were also written by Carolyn McCarthy. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Bailey JohnsonProduct Editors Kate Chapman, Elizabeth Jones, Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographers Mark Griffiths, Alison LyallBook Designer Cam AshleyAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Peter Cruttenden,

Lauren O’Connell, Susan PatersonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Melanie Dankel, James Hardy, Liz Heynes, Andi Jones, Anne Mason, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Angela Tinson

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd312

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAamvecona 207accommodations 18, 288,

see also individual locations

language 303-4Achudup (De Mar Achu) 236Achutupu 239Achutupu Dumat 235activities 20, 32-6, 288, see

also individual activities, individual locations

adventure sports 76, 98, 125, 166-7, 174, 178, 202, 243

Agua Clara Visitor Center 215

Aguadulce 110air travel 299, 301airlines 299, 301airports 17, 299Akwadup 239Albrook Airport 69Almirante 205altar restoration

workshops 117animals, see wildlife,

individual speciesAntón 104arboles cuadrados 97archaeological sites

La Piedra Pintada 97Parque Arqueológico de

Piedra Pintada 162Parque Arqueológico del

Caño 109Parque Arqueológico

Petroglifo El Nancito 162

Parque Nacional Sarigua 117

Sitio Barriles 174

Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro 11, 181-205, 184-5, 11

Archipiélago de Las Perlas 84-8

Archipiélago de San Blás 12, 236-9, 5, 12

Área Silvestre de Narganá 82

Área Silvestre Protegida Lagunas de Volcán 174

Arias de Ávila, Pedro 44art galleries, see museums

& galleries arts 57, 274-7, see also

literature, music, paintingarts centers 122Atelopus zeteki 99ATMs 294Azuero Coastline 129-33Azuero Earth Project

126, 128

BBaha’i House of Worship 45 Bambito 176-7bargaining 19bathrooms 297beaches 20

Isla Contadora 85La Restinga 82Pacific Coast 90-2, 92Playa Blanca (Coclé

Province) 103-4Playa Blanca

(Portobelo) 218Playa Bluff 196Playa El Istmito 196Playa El Salado 110Playa Larga 201Playa Las Lajas 160-1Playa Polo 201Playa Punch 196Red Frog Beach 201Wizard Beach 201-2

bicycling, see cycling

birds 280-1, 2, 10, 15harpy eagles 251hummingbirds 79, 98, 108macaws 145quetzals 173

birdwatching 10, 36Área Silvestre de

Narganá 82Boquete 166-7Bosque Protectorde

Palo Seco 209-10El Valle 98Isla Colón 184Panama Rainforest

Discovery Center 79-80Parque Nacional

Coiba 147-8Parque Nacional

Soberanía 14, 78Parque Nacional y

Reserva Biológica Altos de Campana 88-9

Playa El Aguillito 119Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Islas Taboga y Urabá 82 Santa Clara 176

Black Christ 221Blades, Rubén 272-3boardwalks

Causeway, the 53-5 Paseo las Bóvedas 48

boat travel 300, 301, see also boat trips

boat trips 32, 301Archipiélago de Las

Perlas 85Bocas del Toro Town 187Comarca de Guna Yala

230-1, 234Isla Colón 187Isla Contadora 85Isla Taboga 82Panama Canal 76 Panama City 56, 69-70 Sambú 252

Boca del Drago 195-6

Bocas del Toro Province 39, 180-210, 25

accommodations 180Archipiélago de Bocas

del Toro 181-205climate 180food 180highlights 182-3, 182-3history 181Mainland 205-10travel seasons 180travel to/from 181

Bocas del Toro Town 184-95, 188

accommodations 188-91activities 185-7courses 187drinking & nightlife 193entertainment 193festivals & events 187food 191-3shopping 193sights 184-5tourist information 193-5tours 187travel to/from 195travel within 195

Bolívar, Simón 48books 256, 274

ecology 281evolution 280Guna people 268history 258, 261, 265orchids 286Panama Canal 262

Boquete 11, 163-72, 164, 11accommodations 167-70activities 163, 165-6drinking & nightlife 171-2entertainment 172festivals & events 167food 170-1shopping 172sights 163tourist information 172

313IN

DEX B

-D tours 166-7travel to/from 172

border crossings 299-300Colombia 234, 243Costa Rica 159, 207, 300

Bosque Protectorde Palo Seco 209-10

bridgesPuente del Matadero 53Puente del Rey 52

budget 17bus travel 301-2, 302 business hours 17, 294

CCanal Zone 77-80 canals

Gatún Locks 215Panama Canal 9, 73,

76-7, 256, 265, 9, 28-9Pedro Miguel Locks 76Snyder (Changuinola)

Canal 205canopy tours

Boquete 166-7El Valle 97Isla Bastimentos 202Panama Canal 78-9Panama City 51Parque Natural

Metropolitano 51Playa Venao 131

car travel 302 Carnaval 22

Chitré 115 Isla Grande 224 Las Tablas 123Panama City 56-7Penonomé 105

Cartí 234-5carving workshops 174Casco Viejo 10, 45, 47-9,

54, 10, 19caves

Bayano Caves 82La Gruta 185Nivida Bat Cave 201

Cayo Crawl 200Cayo Swan 200Cayos Holandeses 237Cayos Los Grullos 237Cayos Ordupuquip 237 Cayos Zapatillas 200cell phones 16, 296ceramics workshops 116-17Cerro Punta 177Cerro Tute 138

Changuinola 205-6cheese 88Chichime Cays 235-6chikungunya 291children, travel

with 49, 289Chiriquí Province 39,

152-79accommodations 152climate 152coffee 153food 152Highlands 163-79highlights 154-5, 154-5history 153Lowlands 153-63Ngöbe-Buglé 168travel seasons 152

Chitré 114-16, 114chocolate tours

Green Acres Chocolate Farm 199-200

La Loma 204Oreba Chocolate

Tour 187 Up in the Hill 202

chocosanos 238churches & cathedrals

Basilica Mayor San Juan Bautista 105

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción 52

Catedral Metropolitana 48

Catedral San Juan Bautista 115

Iglesia de La Merced 48Iglesia de la Sagrada

Familia 156Iglesia de San Félipe 219Iglesia de San Francisco

de la Montaña 137Iglesia de San José

48, 52Iglesia de San Pedro 82Iglesia de Santo Do-

mingo de Guzmán 118Iglesia San Atanasio

119-20Iglesia Santa Librada 123Iglesia y Convento de la

Compañía de Jesús 48, 52

Iglesia y Convento de la Concepción 52

Iglesia y Convento de La Merced 52

Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco 52

Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo 48, 52

San Juan de Dios Chapel 218

cigar workshops 107cinema 256, 274-5City of Knowledge 270climate 289climate change 299Coclé Province 38, 93-110

accommodations 93climate 93food 93highlights 94, 94travel seasons 93

coffee 11, 153, 156, 11plantation tours 139,

166-7, 169, 170, 174, 176

processing factory 138Colombia

border crossings 299travel to/from 234, 243

Colón 213-15Colón Province 40, 211-25

accommodations 211climate 211highlights 212, 212surfing 211travel seasons 211

Columbus, Christopher 259Comarca de Guna Yala

40, 226-39accommodations

226, 229-30activities 230festivals & events 231food 229-30highlights 227, 227off-the-beaten-path 226shopping 231tourist information 231-2tours 230-1travel seasons 226travel to/from 232-3travel within 233-4

Congo art 276conservation courses 195-6consulates 290cooking courses 220Corazón de Jesús 237-8Corbiski 235Costa Rica 159, 207, 300costs 17courses

conservation 195-6cooking 220

dancing 220language 56, 167, 187 surfing 185

credit cards 294Cristo Negro 221culture 266-71currency 16, 294customs regulations 289cycling 34, 36, 301

Bocas del Toro Town 186-7

Isla Colón 181Panama City 56

Ddams 285dancing courses 220dangers, see safetyDarién Gap 246Darién Province 40, 240-53

accommodations 240climate 240culture 242-3highlights 241, 241history 242Interior Darién 250-2off-the-beaten-path 240Pacific Coast 253Parque Nacional

Darién 247-50responsible travel 242road to Yaviza 245-7tourist information

243-4tours 243travel seasons 240travel to/from 244-5travel within 245

David 153, 156-9, 157debit cards 294debt 286deforestation 283-5dengue fever 291development 256-7disabilities, travelers

with 297distilleries

rum 156seco 118

diving 33Bocas del Toro

Town 185-6Isla Colón 185-6 Isla Contadora 85Isla Taboga 82Parque Nacional

Coiba 147-8

314

IND

EX D-I

diving, continuedPedasí 125Portobelo 219-20Santa Catalina 141-2

Dolphin Bay 200drinking & nightlife 20,


drinks, see coffee, rum, seco

driving, see car travel

EEast Lemon 235-6ecology courses 195-6economics 256-7, 267ecotourism

ARTURIS Coiba 148Fundación Avifauna

Eugene Eisenmann 79Isla Gobernadora 149Laboratorio Achotines

129Mamallena Ecolodge 89Tortuagro 132-3

El Níspero Zoo 95 El Real 247-8El Valle 12, 95-102, 96-7, 12

accommodations 98-100activities 97-8food 100-1history 95shopping 101sights 95, 97tourist information 101tours 98travel to/from 101-2travel within 102

El Valle Amphibian Conservation Center 95

electricity 289 Ella Puru 79embassies 290Emberá people 79, 82,

242-3, 245, 248, 251-2, 268-9, 275

emergencies 17, 306endangered species 281environment 257environmental issues

283-6deforestation 244endangered species 281

etiquette 19, 228exchange rates 17

Ffactories, see also

workshopscigars 107coffee 138 rum 156 sugar 110

Farallón 103-4farm tours 139festivals & events 11, 22-3

Bocas del Toro Town 187Boquete 167Carnaval 56-7, 105, 115Chitré 115Comarca de Guna

Yala 231David 156Festival de Diablos y

Congos 11, 220, 11, 28Guararé 122Isla Bastimentos 202Isla Colón 187Isla Grande 224Isla Taboga 82-3La Chorrera 88La Villa de Los Santos

120Las Tables 123Nogagope 231Panama City 56-7Panama Jazz Festival 57Pedasí 125Penonomé 105Portobelo 220Santa Fé 139

films 256, 274-5Finca Dracula 177fishing 34

Bambito 176Bahía Piña 253Boquete 166Canal Zone 76Isla Colón 181Parque Nacional

Coiba 147Parque Nacional

Soberanía 78Pedasí 125Playa Ciruelo 131Santa Catalina 141Sunset Coast 150

food 290, see also individual locations

language 304-6forts

Fuerte Gullick 216, 217Fuerte San Fernando 223

Fuerte San Jerónimo 223Fuerte San Lorenzo 217Fuerte Santiago 223Fuerte Sherman 216

Fortuna Road 179Fuerte Gullick 216, 217Fuerte San Fernando 223Fuerte San Jerónimo 223Fuerte San Lorenzo 217Fuerte Santiago 223Fuerte Sherman 216

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleries Gamboa 80Gatún Locks 215gay travelers 290-1geisha coffee 153, see also

coffeegolden frogs 99Golfo de Chiriquí 160Gorgona 90Guabito 207Guadalupe 177-8Guararé 121-2Guna language 232-3Guna people 268


culture 228-9economy 229history 228Ipetí 245lifestyle 229Mogué 251molas 275, 276responsible travel 228

Hhandicrafts 275-6, see

also molasharpy eagles 251hats (Panama) workshops

107, 118-19health 291-3hepatitis A 292hepatitis B 292hiking 32-3

Boquete 165El Valle 97-8Isla Colón 181Parque Internacional La

Amistad (Las Nubes) 178-9

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Wekso) 207-9

Parque Nacional Coiba 147

Parque Nacional Soberanía 78

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú 172-3

Santa Catalina 142Sendero El Pianista 165Sendero Los

Quetzales 172-3Volcán Barú 173

historic buildingsCabildo de la Ciudad 53Casa Alarcón 52Casas de Terrín 52-3Casas Reales 52Palacio de las Garzas 49Palacio Municipal 49Real Aduana de

Portobelo 218-19history 258-65

independence 262-3pre-Columbian 258Spanish empire 259-61US relations 262-4

hitchhiking 302holidays 295holy ghost orchids 101horseback riding

El Valle 97Santa Fé 138

hot springsLos Pozos de Caldera

162-3Pozos de Galique 162Pozos Termales 97

Humedal de San San Pond Sak 207

hummingbirds 79, 98, 108, 2

Iimmigration 297-8indigenous people 268-9

Emberá 79, 82, 242, 245, 248, 251-2, 275

Guna 82, 228-34, 245, 251, 275, 276

Naso 208, 210Ngöbe-Buglé 118, 168,

208Wounaan 79, 82, 242-3,

251-2, 275insurance

car 302health 291

Interior Darién 250-2internet access 293internet resources 17


315IN

DEX -

environmental organizations 284

food 256 travel advice 296

Isla Banedup 235Isla Bastimentos 200-5, 25Isla Cañas 133Isla Carenero 197-9Isla Cébaco 148-9Isla Colón 181Isla Contadora 84-7, 86Isla Gobernadora 149Isla Grande 224-5Isla San Cristóbal 199-200Isla San José 87-8Isla Senidup 236-7Isla Solarte & Around 199Isla Taboga 81-3Isla Tigre 238Isla Tortuga 235-6Isla Waidup 238itineraries 24-31, 24, 26,

29, 30-1

JJaqué 253junta de embarre 121

LLa Arena 116-17La Chorrera 88La Enea 122-3La Palma 250La Peregrina 84La Pintada 107La Playita 130-1La Villa de Los Santos

119-21 Laboratorio Achotines 129 lakes


Gatún Dam 215land 278landmarks

Balboa Statue 45Casa de la

Municipalidad 49Fuerte Amador Resort &

Marina 55Meseta Chorcha 162World Trade Center 45

language 16, 19, 232-3, 303-7

language coursesBocas del Toro Town 187Boquete 167

Panama City 56Las Delicias 209Las Palmas 140Las Tablas 123-5, 124legal matters 293-4leishmaniasis 292leptospirosis 292lesbian travelers 290-1LGBT travelers 290-1literature 256, 274

ecology 281evolution 280Guna people 268history 258, 261, 265orchids 286Panama Canal 262

MMacaracas 119macaws, scarlet 145, 10malaria 292maps 294marine parks & reserves

Parque Nacional Marino Golfo de Chiriquí 160

Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos 201

marketsMercado de

Artesanía 101Mercado de Artesanías

Coclé 106Mercado de Artesanías

La Pintada 107Mercado Nacional de

Artesanías 68Santa Fé 140Tuesday Market 172

mask workshops 117, 120measures 291medical services 291Meseta Chorcha 162Metetí 245-7metro travel 302mining 285Miraflores Visitors Center

76mobile phones 16, 296Mogué 251molas 231, 235, 269,

275, 276money 16, 17, 19, 294moneychanging 294Monumento Natural Isla

Barro Colorado 80Morgan, Henry 44, 45, see

also pirates

Moscoso, Mireya 265motorcycle travel 302mountainbiking, see

cyclingmulticulturalism 269-70Museo de Arte Contem-

poráneo 44museums & galleries

BioMuseo 53-4Centro Natural Punta

Culebra 54-5Diablo Rosso 48Miraflores Visitors

Center 76Museo Afro-Antilleano 45Museo Belisario Porras

123Museo de Arte Contem-

poráneo 44Museo de Arte Religioso

Colonial 48-9Museo de Ciencias

Naturales 45Museo de Herrera 114-15Museo de Historia de

Panamá 49Museo de la Nacionali-

dad 120Museo de la Sal y Azúcar

110Museo de Padre José

Noto 97Museo de Penonomé

Historia y Tradición Panameña 105

Museo de Sitio Panamá Viejo 53

Museo del Canal Interoceánico 47-8

Museo Manuel F Zárate 122

music 57, 272-3

NNaranjo Chico 237Narganá 237-8Naso people 208, 210, 269Natá 109-10national parks & reserves

281-3, see also parks & gardens



Monumento Natural Isla Barro Colorado 80

Panama Rainforest Discovery Center 79-80

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Las Nubes) 178-9


Parque Nacional Coiba 12, 145-8, 146, 12

Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos 201, 2

Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos 108-9

Parque Nacional Portobelo 223

Parque Nacional San Lorenzo 216-18

Parque Nacional Santa Fé 138


Parque Nacional Soberanía 14, 78-9, 2

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú 14, 172-4, 15

Parque Nacional y Reserva Biológica Altos de Campana 88-9

Reserva Privida T ávida 108

Ngöbe-Buglé people 118, 168, 208, 268

Noriega, Manuel 44, 263-4Núñez de Balboa, Vasco

44, 259

Ooff the beaten track 21,

30-1, 30-1Old Bank 201opening hours 17, 294orchids 101, 139, 286

PPacific Coast 88-92, 253Pacific Coast beaches

90-2, 92painting 276-7Panama Canal 9, 73, 76-7,

256, 262, 265, 77, 9, 28-9

Panama Canal Murals 44-5Panama Canal Railway

Company 70Panama City 9, 37, 42-71,

46-7, 50, 54, 58, 8-9, 19

accommodations 42, 57-62

316

IND

EX P-S

Panama City, continuedactivities 55-6Casco Viejo 10, 45, 47-9,

54, 10Causeway, the 53-5climate 42courses 56dangers 68-9drinking & nightlife 66-7entertainment 67festivals & events 56-7food 42, 62-6highlights 43, 43history 44Panamá Viejo 51-3, 58Parque Natural Metro-

politano 49-51shopping 67-8sights 44-5, 47-55tourist information 68-9tours 56travel seasons 42travel to/from 69-70travel within 70-1

Panama hat workshops 107, 118-19

Panama Jazz Festival 57Panamá Province 38, 72-92

accommodations 72around Panama City

73-80climate 72highlights 74-5, 74-5history 73Pacific Coast 88-92Pacific Islands 81-8Panama Canal & Zone

73-80sights 72travel seasons 72

Panama Railroad 214-15, 261, 302, 28-9


Parita 117-18 parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Aprovaca Orquídeas 95El Explorador 163Finca Los Monos

Botanical Garden 184-5

Parque José Domingo Médica 163

Parque Natural Metropolitano 49-51

Parque Recreativo Omar 44

Parque Arqueológico de Piedra Pintada 162

Parque Arqueológico del Caño 109

Parque Arqueológico Petroglifo El Nancito 162

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Las Nubes) 178-9


Parque Nacional Coiba 12, 145-8, 146, 12

Parque Nacional Darién 247-50


Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos 201, 2

Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos 108-9


Parque Nacional San Lorenzo 216-18

Parque Nacional Santa Fé 138


Parque Nacional Soberanía 14, 78-9

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú 14, 172-4, 15

Parque Nacional y Reserva Biológica Altos de Campana 88-9

Parque Natural Metropolitano 49-51

Paso Canoas 159passports 297-8pearls 84Pedasí 125-8Pedro Miguel Locks 76Península de Azuero 13, 38,

111-33, 13accommodations 111climate 111food 111highlights 112-13, 112-13history 114travel seasons 111

Penonomé 104-7, 105Perez, Danilo 57Peristeria elata 101

petroglyphsParque Arqueológico de

Piedra Pintada 162Parque Arqueológico

Petroglifo El Nancito 162

photography 277, 295Piji Basal 248-9pirates 81, see also

Morgan, Henryplanning

budgeting 16, 17calendar of events 22-3climate 16, 16first-time visitors 18-19internet resources 17itineraries 24-31, 24, 26,

29, 30-1Panama basics 16-17Panama’s regions 37-40travel seasons 16, 22-3travel to/from Panama

17, 299-301travel within Panama

17, 301-2plants 281Playa Barqueta 159-60Playa Blanca 103-4Playa Bluff & Around 196-7Playa Cambutal 132-3Playa Ciruelo 131Playa Coronado 90-1Playa El Palmar 91-2Playa El Toro 128-9Playa Guánico 132-3Playa La Garita 128-9Playa Las Lajas 160-2Playa Los Destiladeros

129-30Playa Venao 131-2Playón Chico 238-9plazas

Parque Bolívar 48Plaza de Francia 48Plaza de la Independ-

encia 49police 296polleras 275, 13

La Enea 122-3Las Tablas 123Península de Azuero

118-19population 256-7, 267-9Portobelo 218-23, 219, 28postal services 295public holidays 295Puerto Lindo 223-4Punta Chame 89-90

QQuebrada Sal

(Salt Creek) 202quetzals 173

Rrabies 292rainforests 282Rancho Frío 249-50Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Isla Iguana 128Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Islas Taboga y Urabá 82religion 257, 271Reserva Natural Punta

Patiño 250-1Reserva Privida Távida 108responsible travel 266

Darién Province 242Guna people 228

Río Mar 92Río Sambú 251-2Río Sereno 159Río Sidra 236riptides 34Road to Yaviza 245-7romantic getaways 20ruins

Fuerte San Lorenzo 217Fuerte Santiago 223Hospital de San Juan

de Dios 53 Panamá Viejo 51-2Parque Internacional

La Amistad (Wekso) 208

Sitio Barriles 174rum distilleries 156

Ssafety 295-6

Bocas del Toro Province 193

Darién Province 244, 248Panama City 68swimming 34

sailing, see boat tripsSalardup (Isla Estrella) 236Sambú 252San Antonio 79San Francisco 136-7Santa Catalina 14,

140-5, 14Santa Clara 102-3, 176Santa Fé 137-40, 137Santiago 136scarlet macaws, 145, 10 Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

317IN

DEX S

-W

School of the Americas 216, 217

sea travel 300, 301, see also boat trips

seco distillery 118SENAFRONT 243shipwrecks 260shopping

language 306Sixaola 207snorkeling 33

Bocas del Toro Town 185-6

Parque Nacional Coiba 147

Portobelo 219-20Santa Catalina 141-2

Snyder (Changuinola) Canal 205

sports 269square-trunked trees 97stadiums

Estadio Maracaná 44subway travel 302suger refineries 110Sunset Coast 149-51surfing 20-1, 33-4

Bocas del Toro Province 194

Bocas del Toro Town 185Chiriqui Province 161Colón Province 211, 224Isla Carenero 197-8Isla Colón 185 Panamá Province 91Península de Azuero 130Playa Venao 131Santa Catalina 14,

141, 14Sunset Coast 150

Survivor (TV show) 85swimming 34, 296

Balneario El Salto 137Balneário La Barranca

156Balneário La Cascada

163Parque Nacional Coiba

147Portobelo 220Río Bulaba 138

Ttanagers 108, 210, 280, 15taxis 302Teatro Nacional 48 telephone services 16,

296-7

time 16, 297tipping 19toilets 297Toro Guapo 104tourist information 297,


tours 300-1, see also individual activities, tours

Boquete 166-7Comarca de Guna Yala

230-1Darién Province 243El Valle 98Emberá communities

79, 245Guna communities

230-1, 245Isla Bastimentos 202Isla Caña 133Isla Colón 187 Isla San Cristóbal

199-200Jaqué 253Monumento Natural Isla

Barro Colorado 80 Naso communities 208Panama Canal 76Panama City 56Parque Internacional

La Amistad (Las Nubes) 178

Parque Nacional Coiba 147-8

Reserva Privada Távida 108

Santa Fé 138-9Volcán 174Wounaan

communities 79train travel 302

Panama Canal Railway Company 70

Panama Railroad 214-15, 28-9

Transpanama Trail 33transportation 299-302,


language 307traveler’s checks 294traveler’s diarrhea 292travelers with disabilities

297trekking, see hikingtuna tagging 129turtle-watching 279-83

Darién Province 252

Grupo de Conservación de Tortugas de Jaqué 253


Isla Cañas 133Jaqué 253 Playa Bluff & Around 196Playa Cambutal 132-3Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Playa Barqueta Agricola 159

Sunset Coast 150typhoid 292-3

UUaguitupo 239Unesco World Heritage

SitesCasco Viejo 10, 45, 47-9,

10, 19Fuerte San Lorenzo 217Panamá Viejo 51-3Parque Internacional

La Amistad (Las Nubes) 178-9




Portobelo 218-23

Vvacations 295vaccinations 293Veraguas Province 39,

134-51accommodations 134climate 134food 134highlights 135, 135travel seasons 134

viewpointsAgua Clara Visitor

Center 215Las Delicias 209Mirador Perú 223

visas 16, 297-8Volcán 174-6Volcán Barú 15, 173, 15volunteering 252, 298

WWailidup 236walking, see hikingwater 292

waterfallsAlto de Piedra 138Cascada de Bermejo 138Cascada Távida 108Chorro El Macho 95Chorro Las Mozas 95, 97El Salto 138El Salto de Las Palmas

140watersports 13, 36, 13weather 289weights 291whale-watching

Isla Contadora 85Isla Taboga 82Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Isla Iguana 128wildlife 278-81, see also

individual animals, birds

wildlife reserves, see also wildlife-watching


Butterfly Haven 95El Valle Amphibian

Conservation Center 95


Isla Cañas 133Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Isla Iguana 128Refugio de Vida

Silvestre Islas Taboga y Urabá 82

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Playa Barqueta Agricola 159

Reserva Natural Punta Patiño 250-1

Reserva Privada Távida 108

wildlife-watching 10, 21, 32, 36, see also wildlife reserves


Monumento Natural Isla Barro Colorado 80


Parque Internacional La Amistad (Wekso) 208



Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos 108

318

IND

EX W-Z

wildlife-watching, continued

Parque Nacional Soberanía 78

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú 172-3

Sunset Coast 150women in Panama 271women travelers 298work 298

workshops, see also factories

altar restoration 117carving 174cigar rolling 107chocolate making 187,

199-200, 202, 204mask making 117, 120Panama hat making 107,

118-19

pollera making 118-19, 122-3

Wounaan people 79, 82, 251-2, 268-9, 275

Wreck Reef 237

YYandup 239Yaviza 247

yellow fever 293yellow-fin tuna 129yoga

Bocas del Toro Town 185 Panama City 55

Zzika 293ziplining, see canopy tours


319

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by LP Global LimitedCRN 5541537th edition – October 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 117 5© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSCarolyn McCarthyAuthor of more than 30 travel guides, Carolyn McCarthy has been writing about the Americas since 1998. For this visit she rode dugout canoes in lawn chairs, saw hundreds of marine turtles hatching and spent hours in Panama City traffic. She also drank the water. This is her third time writing the Panama guide. Her work has also appeared in BBC Magazine, National Geographic, Boston Globe, Outside and other publications.

Steve FallonBorn in the USA, Steve traveled to Latin America as a youngster. Somehow the middle bit, especially Panama, remained terra incognita to him beyond hats and a canal until Lonely Planet sent him packing. And what discoveries he made: hummingbirds’ nests, cobalt-blue and scarlet frogs, a spider that spins a golden web. Then there was the coffee, the chocolate, the orchids, the beaches, the corals… He’s said it once and he’ll say it again: Panama, who knew?



© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Documents

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenesmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/panama-7-index.pdf · Melinda Doughty, Renee Brown, Tony Adam, Victoria Budzisch, Will Martin WRITER THANKS Carolyn