BELGIAN COSMETICS - · PDF fileBELGIAN COSMETICS TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 4 ... cosmetic and personal care products contributing to well ... South Korea (EUR 9 billion). The

BELGIAN COSMETICS

Editor: Fabienne L’HoostAuthors: Christelle Charlier, Céline Vandermeersch, Wouter Decoster & Nicolas Preillon Graphic design and layout: OskarDCOPYRIGHT © Reproduction of the text is authorised provided the source is acknowledgedDate of publication: September 2016Printed on FSC-labelled paperThis publication is also available to be consulted at the website of the Belgian Foreign Trade Agency: www.abh-ace.be

BELGIAN COSMETICS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 4

CHAPTER 1PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR 7

SECTION 1: THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY IN FIGURES 8

1 >> TURNOVER 8

2 >> COMPANIES AND JOBS 12

3 >> EXPORTS 12

SECTION 2: BELGIUM’S ADVANTAGES IN THE VALUE CHAIN 15

1 >> BELGIUM, A WORLD-CLASS CHEMICALS CLUSTER 16

2 >> BELGIUM, THE IDEAL TEST MARKET 16

3 >> BELGIUM, FOCUSED ON INNOVATION 17

4 >> BELGIUM, A STRICT REGULATORY FRAMEWORK 18

SECTION 3: STAKEHOLDERS 20

1 >> OFFICIAL ORGANISATIONS 20

2 >> COSMETICS INDUSTRY BODIES 22

CHAPTER 2SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM 25

ANHAIRCO 26

CODIBEL 28

COSMEBEL 30

ECOVER 32

EXPANSCIENCE 34

JYB COSMETICS 36

L’ORÉAL LIBRAMONT 38

MYLÈNE 40

NADINE SALEMBIER 42

OBELIS 44

PRANARÔM 46

WORLD NATURAL CARE 48

CHAPTER 3DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES 51

INTRODUCTION

4

INTRODUCTION

COSMETICS OF EVERY STRUCTURE AND FRAGRANCE (SOURCE: DETIC)

In a society where we constantly hear words such as ‘growth’ and ‘profit’, we sometimes forget the magical, original worth of a product: its sensuality. This introduction takes us back to basics. It offers a literary puff, sniff or smell of the feeling that cosmetics can bring, products that are functional and sensual, of course, but that also have an immaterial and often very cerebral side.

“Functional products are present everywhere in our lives. You clean your house with a cleaning product and mow your lawn with a mower. Functionality is straightforward. But a cosmetic has several aspects. From embellishment to hy-giene, it is the only product that promotes its users’ well-being and, going beyond their senses, stimulates their imagination.” With these words, Yu-Ting Chen, technical and regulatory expert at DETIC, immediately sets the tone for this introduction. “A cosmetic is not simply the product itself; it has many offshoots. When you buy a cosmetic, you feel a real sense of pleasure because you know you are ac-quiring a product that gives you a sense of well-being. Cos-metics and everything associated with them bring a feeling of happiness.” And this feeling is far from trivial; it creates a real link between physical and mental health. Pleasure is good for your health!

THE STARTING POINT - HYGIENE AND PROTECTION

Health is, in the first place, the result of personal hygiene, which is achieved by using cosmetics. Personal care and hygiene products, such as soap, shampoo and shower gel, are essential to modern hygiene and good health, and con-tribute to longevity. In today’s society, life expectancy is con-stantly breaking new records. And since soap became available to everybody, the quality of life has only improved. Illnesses due to a lack of hygiene have disappeared from western societies.

Protecting the body against external influences is an essen-tial function of many cosmetics. Although few people really appreciate it, toothpaste and sun cream are also cosmetic products. An amount of toothpaste equivalent to the size of a pea is enough to protect teeth against decay; dentists rec-ommend twice-daily brushing quite rightly. Meanwhile, sun products protect us against the sun’s rays, in which we often spend more time than is good for us. Used correctly, these products can slow down premature skin aging and, essen-tially, sunburn, a major cause of skin cancer.

PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF COSMETICS

But the hygienic and protective value of cosmetics goes be-yond their functional operation to the level of human psy-chological health. Through their odours and textures, these products can reawaken emotions and memories hidden away in our deepest minds. In fact, throughout our lives we sketch an image of ourselves made from scents, experi-ences and memories. Scents are with us throughout our development. Subconsciously or consciously, they mark specific events – pleasant or otherwise – while reinforcing our personality and maintaining our self-image. Think, for example, of the scent of an aunt who was very strict and unloving. Not the best of memories! Subconsciously, you will not be drawn to anyone who wears the same perfume. Think, too, of a crying baby whose tears dry up like magic when he smells the odour of his “blankey”.

These subjective experiences of odours and textures and their positive effects have also been confirmed objectively

Functionality is straightforward.

But a cosmetic has several aspects. From

embellishment to hygiene, it is the only product

that promotes its users’ well-being and, going

beyond their senses, stimulates their

imagination.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

5

in various studies. In recent years, there has been analysis of the impact of cosmetics on the quality of life. Here, Data Mining International, an independent Swiss research agen-cy, has confirmed the validity and reliability of a new instru-ment for measuring the quality-of-life impact of cosmetics (BeautyQol). For some people, this impact is considerable. A particularly good example is a video posted on YouTube in which an American teenager used camouflaging make-up to hide her acne, helping hundreds of other teenagers to feel better about themselves – a beneficial act of self-ac-ceptance delivered by a few beauty products! The effect of cosmetics is far less superficial than you might think.

In addition to giving a boost to self-confidence, applying cosmetics can also have other ‘unexpected’ beneficial ef-fects. As an example, a small French study showed that the tactile experience of applying cosmetics can aid eye-to-hand coordination leading to improved balance, and even to protecting older people against falls. Yet another good rea-son, if needed, for getting out those little jars that are lurk-ing at the back of your cupboards.

A THIRD DIMENSION

A final use of cosmetics in our environment is more strate-gic in nature. “For centuries, the use of cosmetics has been part of a natural tendency of humans to impress, frighten, seduce or manipulate. This goes from hunters who rubbed ochre into their skin to hide their scent to the “psychologi-cal” preparation for an important meeting to close a deal, where the “predator” mimics the appearance of the “prey” as much as possible. The reassurance of a familiar scent, the recognition of a make-up item, even the same style of clothing can transform an enemy into a friend. For exam-ple, scent mimicking allows a “family-like” connection to be created where it does not exist – and to take advantage of it.” stresses Frédérick Warzée, Head of Communications and cosmetologist at DETIC.

Cosmetics have long been part of our quality of life and, con-sequently, have improved our health. They also determine how people perceive each other and the world around them, while providing a framework for our experiences and memories. Cosmetics are lived, smelled and felt: their effect is sensual and psychological but is hard to describe in words.

COSMETICS, TOUCHING PEOPLE’S LIVES

The vast majority of Europe’s 500 million consumers use cosmetic and personal care products contributing to well being and healthy lifestyles, and positive self-esteem every day. Ranging from antiperspirants, fragrances, makeup and shampoos, to soaps, sunscreens and toothpastes, cos-metics play an essential role in all stages of our life.

EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parlia-ment and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products defines cosmetics as any substance that comes into contact with the epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view to:

• cleaning them • protecting them • keeping them in good condition • perfuming them or correcting body odours or• changing their appearance.

Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care and cos-metics federation, identifies five main categories of cos-metic products:

• Toiletries (soaps, shower gels, toothpastes, deodorants, etc.)

• Skin care (moisturizers, sun creams, anti-aging creams, etc.)

• Hair care (shampoos, hair dyes, mousses, etc.)

• Decorative cosmetics (make-up, foundations, powders, blushers, lipsticks, nail varnishes, eye shadows, etc.)

• Fragrances & perfumes (perfumes, eau de toilette, extracts, lotions, etc.).

PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR


8

SECTION 1

THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY IN FIGURES

1 >> TURNOVER

By country The cosmetics industry is biggest in Europe, where it ac-counts for around one third of the global sales of cosmet-ics. Domestic turnover expressed in retail sales price (RSP) was EUR 77.1 billion in 2015, compared to EUR 72.5 billion in 2014, an increase of 3.1%. The Cosmetics Europe statis-tics cover the 28 member states of the EU plus Switzerland and Norway.

The second biggest market is the United States, with EUR 62 billion in sales. The third biggest consumer of cosmetics is China, at EUR 41 billion. Next come Brazil (EUR 23 bil-lion), Japan (EUR 20 billion), India (EUR 10 billion) and South Korea (EUR 9 billion). The experts expect emerging economies like Brazil, India, China and Mexico to drive in-dustry growth in the years to come.

At European level, Belgium is ranked 9th, accounting for 2.7% of the European total, with turnover of EUR 2,057 bil-lion in 2015 (+ 0.7% compared to 2014). It should be noted that these figures include Luxembourg.

Source: Cosmetics Europe (2016)

FIGURE 1:

MAIN COSMETICS MARKETS, IN EUR BILLIONS (2015)

EUROPE €77bn

US €62bn

BRAZIL €23bn

JAPAN €20bn

SOUTH KOREA €9bn

CHINA €41bnINDIA

€10bn

BELGIAN COSMETICS

9

By productThere is a fairly balanced spread of turnover over the five Cosmetics Europe product categories (see Introduction). Skin care products and toiletries make up half of all Europe-an turnover. In Belgium, skin care products have been over-taken by hair products, which make up 26.1% of turnover. The Belgian share of European hair product sales is 3.6% (compared to an average of 2.7% for cosmetics).

Source: Cosmetics Europe (2016)

FIGURE 2:

BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY PRODUCT CATEGORY

IN EUROPE AND BELGIUM (2015)

DECORATIVE COSMETICS

HAIR CARE

SKIN CARE

FRAGANCE & PERFUMES

TOILETRIES

18.0%

25.5%

11.4%

26.1%

19.0%

BELGIUM

15.7%

25.8%

13.9%

19.4%25.1%

EUROPE

SPAIN €6.4bn

ITALY €9.7bn

UK €12.5bn

GERMANY €13.4bn

FRANCE €11.4bn

NETHERLANDS €2.9bn

BELGIUM / LUXEMBOURG €2.1bn

POLAND €3.1bn

SWITZERLAND €2.3bn

SWEDEN€2.0bn


10

By distribution channelDETIC statistics cover sales on the Belgian market by feder-ation members (80%-90% of the total). DETIC identifies four distribution channels for cosmetics products:

• mass retail, which also includes brands selling their own products through their own distribution channels (such as Yves Rocher, l’Occitane and Body Shop) as well as semi-selective retail through drug stores (such as Di and Kruidvat)

• selective retail, including multi-brand stores (such as Ici Paris XL and PlanetParfum) and independents

• pharmacies• professional products.

Mass retail accounts for more than half of turnover (52% in 2014). However, this channel has gradually ceded market share to selective retail (36%) and pharmacies (10%). Pro-fessional products account for 2% of turnover.

There are some notable differences between the product categories. While mass retail is preferred for toiletries and hair products, selective retail dominates fragrances & per-fumes. These two channels are on an equal footing with re-gard to decorative cosmetics and skin care. Pharmacies ac-count for a quarter of skin care sales. The professional products channel is mainly used for hair care.

Source: DETIC (based on members)

FIGURE 3 :

BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY DISTRIBUTION

CHANNEL IN BELGIUM, IN EUR THOUSANDS (2014)

PHARMACY

MASS MARKET

PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS

SELECTIVE DISTRIBUTION

10%

36%52%

2%

0

FR

AG

AN

CE

& P

ER

FU

ME

S

DE

CO

RA

TIV

E C

OS

ME

TIC

S

SKI

N C

AR

E

HA

IR C

AR

E

TOIL

ETR

IES

50,000

100,000

150,000

200,000

250,000

BELGIAN COSMETICS

11

What about e-commerce in Belgium?

Online sales are included in the above categories, as DETIC does not have

a specific category for this. For a long time, the inability to get advice and

test products held back e-commerce, but it is now experiencing growth.

This distribution channel complements the physical circuit, offering

consumers a “different, enriched and personalised user experience”.

According to the latest figures from BeCommerce (the Belgian federation

of online merchants), taken as a whole, e-commerce is continuing to grow

and break records. Belgian consumers spent almost EUR 2.3 billion online

in the first quarter of 2016 (+9% compared to the same period in 2015)

in 21.4 million transactions (+7%). 76% of the population shopped online

between January and March 2016. This channel accounted for 16% of

total receipts in the Belgian retail industry.

This figures show that Belgium is catching up in e-commerce. According

to BeCommerce, Belgium is in the top half in Europe.

The growth potential in cross-border e-commerce should also be stressed.

53.2% of the online purchases by Belgians in 2015 were made on foreign

websites, especially those in neighbouring countries (Netherlands,

Germany and France). According to BeCommerce, due to the size of the

country, Belgian online merchants have no choice but to move into the

export business. 82% of their visitors are foreign, mainly from France, the

Netherlands, the United States and the United Kingdom.

The growth trend in e-commerce is also discernible in cosmetics: Belgians

are buying more and more online. Health and beauty products accounted

for 9% of all online purchases in 2015. The most popular categories were

clothing and accessories (27%), electronics (24%) and leisure activities

(11%). Cosmetics actually rose to first place during the Christmas and

New Year period, accounting for no less than one third of online sales in

Belgium.

A 2016 survey in France by CCM Benchmark Institut showed that

cosmetics brands, consumer-to-consumer websites and general online

retailers like Amazon and Cdiscount were the most popular destinations

for online shoppers. The biggest sellers in cosmetics are face care

products, make-up and body care products. Customer reviews, up-to-

date stock information and a quick questionnaire to determine which

products best meet the consumer’s needs are deemed to be the most

useful services provided by online retailers.


12

2 >> COMPANIES AND JOBS

In “Socio-economic contribution of the European cosmetics industry”, a report published in June 2016, Cosmetics Europe states that the cosmetics industry is a major business driver throughout the value chain (see Section 2).

CompaniesMore than 5000 companies are involved in the manufacture of cosmetics products in Europe. One of the strengths of the industry is the coexistence of companies of all sizes. According to Euromonitor International (2015) data, there are 4605 SMEs in Europe. Italy, France and the United King-dom have the most company registrations.

The following companies should be added to this:• More than a hundred cosmetics ingredients suppliers

and packaging companies• 20,100 wholesalers• 45,700 retail points of sale• Between 400,000 and 500,000 hairdressers and beauty

salons

JobsThe industry employs 179,000 people directly (including 152,000 in manufacturing) and 1.55 million indirectly.

In Belgium, according to National Social Security Office statistics there were 5015 direct jobs on 30 June 2015.

There are 1989 jobs in production (NACE 20.42 Manufacture of perfumes and toilet preparations). 70% of them are based in Flanders, mainly in the province of Antwerp. Almost all the rest are based on Wallonia, especially in the provinces of Luxembourg (home to the L’Oréal plant) and Hainaut.

The sale of cosmetics (code NACE 46.45 Wholesale of per-fume and cosmetics) accounts for 3026 jobs in Belgium, of which 46% in Brussels, 37% in Flanders and 17% in Wallonia.

3 >> EXPORTS

Eurostat data pegged Belgian cosmetics exports at EUR 2.6 billion in 2015. The following sections were taken into ac-count: • 3303-Perfumes and toilet waters• 3304-Beauty or make-up preparations and prepara-

tions for the care of the skin• 3305-Preparations for the use on the hair• 3306-Preparations for oral or dental hygiene• 3307-Pre-shave, shaving or after-shave preparations,

personal deodorants, bath preparations, depilatories and other perfumery, cosmetic or toilet preparations

• 3401-Soap.

Cosmetics is part of the chemical, plastics and life sciences industry, which is the biggest exporting sector in Belgium ac-counting for one third of total export (32.6% in 2015). The three biggest subsectors are pharmaceuticals, organic chemicals and plastics, which jointly account for more than three quarters of the sector’s total export. Cosmetics ac-count for 2.2% of the chemical, plastics and life sciences sec-tor, or 0.7% of total Belgian exports in 2015.

Belgian cosmetics exports increased by 18.7% in 2015 com-pared to the previous year. It was the third year of consecutive growth after growth of 5.7% in 2013 and 10.1% in 2014.

Belgium is the 7th biggest cosmetics exporter in the EU, ac-counting for 6.0% of sales in 2015. France heads the ranking, followed at quite a distance by Germany and the United King-dom.

By continentBelgian cosmetics exports are diversified. The share of Eu-rope, which accounted for 79.3% of turnover worldwide in 2010, had fell to 71.1% by 2015, with Asia, America and Africa all benefiting.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

13

ASIA

AFRICA

EU-28

AMERICA

OCEANIA AND POLAR REGIONS

OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

10.8%

68.5%

8.2%

9.2%2.1%

2.9%

1.2%

2010

9.5%61.5%

13.7%

11.5%

0.8%

2015

Source: Eurostat

FIGURE 6:

BREAKDOWN OF BELGIAN EXPORTS PER

CONTINENT IN 2010 AND 2015

Source: Eurostat

FIGURE 5:

COSMETICS EXPORTS BY COUNTRY IN 2015

FIGURE 4:

BELGIAN COSMETICS EXPORTS

FROM 2010 TO 2015, IN EUR BILLIONS

SPAIN

UNITED KINGDOM

FRANCE

ITALY

BELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

OTHERS

POLAND

GERMANY

17.9%

27.4%

9.3%

10.1%

6.9%

6.1%

6.0%

4.5%

11.8%

0

20142010 2011 2012 2013 2015

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

2.2 1.9 2.0 2.61.9 2.2

Source: Eurostat


14

Source: Eurostat

FIGURE 8:

BREAKDOWN OF EXPORTS BY PRODUCT CATEGORY

(2015)

By countryThe Netherlands was Belgium’s principle customer in 2015, accounting for 21% of Belgian cosmetics exports, worth EUR 560.6 million.

The United States and Germany followed quite a long way behind, with 9.1% and 9.0% of sales respectively.

France, which was Belgium’s second biggest customer in 2010, dropped to fourth by 2015.

Source: Eurostat

FIGURE 7:

TOP 10 BELGIAN CUSTOMERS, IN EUR MILLIONS

(2010, 2015)

By productBeauty, make-up and skin care products account for the li-on’s share at 39.1%. This section (3304) generally covers ‘skin care‘ and ‘decorative cosmetics’. ‘Hair care’ products and ‘fragrances & perfumes’ place second and third, with 18.6% and 18.3% respectively. The remaining 24% of Belgian exports are made up of body care products (shaving, shower products, oral hygiene and soap), which correspond to ‘toi-letries’ but also ‘skin care’.

PRE-SHAVE, SHAVING OR AFTER-SHAVE PREPARATIONS, PERSONAL DEODORANTS, BATH PREPARATIONS, DEPILATORIES AND OTHER PERFUMERY, COSMETIC OR TOILET PREPARATIONS

PREPARATIONS FOR THE USE ON THE HAIR

PERFUMES AND TOILET WATERS3303

3304

3305

3306

3307

3401

PREPARATIONS FOR ORAL OR DENTAL HYGIENE

SOAP

BEAUTY OR MAKE-UP PREPARATIONS AND PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN

39.1%

18.5%

18.8%

5.1%

13.4%

5.2%

100

0

FR

AN

CE

GE

RM

AN

Y

US

A

NE

TH

ER

LAN

DS

UN

ITE

D K

ING

DO

M

SW

ITZ

ER

LAN

D

RU

SS

IA

SP

AIN

ITA

LY

PO

LAN

D

300

200

500

400

600

2010

2015

BELGIAN COSMETICS

15

SECTION 2

BELGIUM’S ADVANTAGES IN THE VALUE CHAIN

The cosmetics industry value chain can be segmented into five main stages.

The first one comprises the companies that provide the raw materials required to make cosmetic products. These in-clude companies manufacturing the ingredients used in the production of cosmetics, but also companies develop-ing and manufacturing packaging components and R&D activities (e.g. market research, product formulation and industrial design).

The next step of the value chain (manufacturing) is made up of manufacturers. Socio-economic benefits are created through production, but also through supporting activities (e.g. marketing and advertising, IT, accounting and legal services and business administration).

The finished cosmetic product may then pass through dis-tribution and/or wholesale.

The final stage of the value chain involves the retail sale and purchase of cosmetics. End-consumers may buy cosmetic products through a range of channels, including grocery stores, supermarkets, department stores, pharmacies, on-line stores and beauty salons. Beauty salons (e.g. nail sa-lons, hair salons, spas, etc.) also purchase, use and sell cosmetic products.

The cosmetics industry is particularly well developed in Belgium, where conditions are favourable throughout the value chain. As a world-class chemical cluster (2.1), Bel-gium is also an ideal test market (2.2) for cosmetics. The country is very open to innovation (2.3), while imposing a strict regulatory framework in accordance with EU require-ments (2.4).

Source: Cosmetics Europe

INPUTS TOPRODUCTION

MANUFACTURING

DISTRIBUTION &WHOLESALE

CONSUMERS

RETAIL & BEAUTYSERVICES


16

In Belgium the cosmetics industry is relatively dense, with a huge distribution network.

Belgium is often felt to be the ideal test market, before en-tering other bigger, European markets, but also the perfect springboard for export. This also goes for cosmetics for several reasons.

• Belgium is a major logistical hub. A crossroads at the heart of Europe with six ports and five airports. It also has an extensive rail network, with 3000 km of tracks. High-speed trains connect Brussels with Amsterdam, Frankfurt, London and Paris.

• Belgium is an outward-facing multilingual country, whose cosmopolitan capital Brussels is home to the NATO head-quarters and many EU and European institutions.

• Belgians have a lot of purchasing power. According to Cosmetics Europe, the average Belgian spent EUR 174 on cosmetics in 2015, which is well above the EU aver-age of EUR 124. Belgium is fourth highest in this rank-ing, behind Sweden, the United Kingdom and Denmark.

• Industry experts say that Belgian cosmetics consumers adopt “average” behaviour, getting through 18g per day. They are also well informed and act in full knowledge of the facts.

Belgium is global leader in the chemical industry based on turnover per inhabitant. Chemicals accounted for 32.6% of exports and 28.2% of imports in 2015. With the Port of Ant-werp as hub, Belgium is a world-class chemical cluster by size but also in terms of product diversity.

Like Houston, Singapore and Jubail, Antwerp is one of the world’s most important petrochemicals complexes. Belgium also has a huge pipeline network for the transmission of gas, oil and other petrochemical products.

Belgium is home to several cosmetics ingredients suppliers, such as BASF, Dow Corning, EOC and Tensachem.

6 BELGIAN SEAPORTS

LIÈGE

ANTWERP

ZEEBRUGGE

OSTEND

GHENT

BRUSSELS

5 BELGIAN AIRPORTS

✈BIERSET

✈ANTWERP

✈OSTEND

✈CHARLEROI

(Brussels South)

✈BRUSSELSNATIONAL AIRPORT

1 >> BELGIUM, A WORLD-CLASS CHEMICALS CLUSTER

2 >> BELGIUM, THE IDEAL TEST MARKET

EUROPEAN PIPELINE NETWORK

ANTWERP

THE NETHERLANDS

FRANCE

GERMANY

BELGIUM

TERNEUZEN

ROTTERDAM

OLENGEEL

LILLE

WAZIERS MAUBEUGE

JEMEPPE-SUR-SAMBRE

FELUY

MELSBROEKLEVERKUSEN

BONN

SITTARD-GELEEN

BERINGENTESSENDERLO

GENK

RHEINBERG

MARL

FRANKFURT

Source: Port of Antwerp

Source: ib.fgov.be

Source: ib.fgov.be

BELGIAN COSMETICS

17

Meeting evolving consumer

demands and remaining competitive

in a fast-changing and globalised

world demands constant innovation,

and in this respect we stand

out. We are science-driven and

our investment in R&D remains

substantial. This relentless

commitment to innovation helps

ensure that product design and

safety are in a state of constant

evolution, and consequently, that we

continue to generate growth and jobs

in the EU.

John Chave, Director-General,

Cosmetics Europe, Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)

ULG: MASTER SPECIALISED IN COSMETOLOGYwww.ulg.ac.be

The aim of this master’s degree is to train professionals who are able to design, manufacture and test cosmetics. Given that they are applied directly to the skin, these products must meet extremely stringent requirements. Ingredients are tested, the manufacturing process moni-tored, finished products evaluated and their safety for humans and the environment is checked. This master’s degree therefore covers the legal, technical and scientific aspects of the ever-changing cosmetics industry.

ULB: MASTER’S DEGREE IN BIOMEDICAL SCIENCES DERMOPHARMACY AND COSMETOLOGY www.ulb.ac.be/facs/pharma/cosmetologie

The European cosmetics industry is the global leader whose highly innovative products are widely used by con-sumers. Given the increasing complexity of regulatory constraints in the field of cosmetics ingredients and fin-ished products, trained specialists are needed.

This master’s degree is offered by the ULB’s Faculty of Pharmacy in association with the ULB’s Faculty of Medi-cine and the Faculty of Medicine and Pharmacy of the University of Liege (ULG). It is also supported by visiting professors from research centres and the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and chemical industries.

For these reasons, many large brands have opened a produc-tion plant and/or a distribution centre in Belgium, including L’Oréal (France), Unilever (UK), Beiersdorf (Germany), Procter & Gamble (US), Estée Lauder (US), Henkel (Germany) and Johnson & Johnson (US).

3 >> BELGIUM, FOCUSED ON INNOVATION

One major advantage of cosmetics production in Belgium is its particularly innovative nature, a real trademark of the country.

Many Belgian companies work anonymously for house brands. There are innovations at product level (creativity in formulations, textures) and at manufacturing level, especial-ly in terms of sustainable development.

Several Belgian universities offer courses linked to cosmet-ics and cosmetology. As such, Belgium helps talented young-sters get a start in the industry, creating a pool of experts for employers.


18

4 >> BELGIUM, A STRICT REGULATORY FRAMEWORK

Cosmetics products sold in Belgium and the European Union are subject to very strict regulation. They are among the most stringently regulated products, which provides consumers with guarantees as to their safety for humans. This is a con-siderable advantage on export markets.

Cosmetics manufactured and sold in the European Union are subject to EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cos-metic products. 2016 marked the fortieth anniversary of the legislation, harmonised at EU level. It has proven to be an effective mechanism. The last health crisis in the European cosmetics industry was a long, long time ago.

In Belgium, the EU regulation is supplemented by the Royal Decree of 17 July 2012. The FPS Health, Food Chain Safety and Environment is the body responsible for ensuring the EU regulation is complied with in Belgium. Cosmetics manufac-turers in Belgium must also notify the FPS of their activities every two years.

Some points in this regulatory framework:

Responsible personA responsible person (a natural person or a legal entity) in the European Union must be designated for every cosmetic product. This ensures the conformity of the product and com-pliance with other legal obligations. The responsible person must register the product on the European Commission’s Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP). The responsi-ble person can be the manufacturer, the importer, a distribu-tor or another authorised person.

European cosmetics fileDrawn up and submitted to the relevant authorities by the responsible person, the file on the cosmetic product must contain the following information:

• The manufacturing method and a statement of compli-ance with Best Manufacturing Practices (compliance with the EN ISO 22716:2007 standard confers an as-sumption of conformity)

VUB: DEPARTMENT OF TOXICOLOGY, DERMATO-COSMETOLOGY AND PHARMACOGNOSY (FAFY) www.ecopa.euminf.vub.ac.be

The Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy (FAFY) is part of the Faculty of Medicine and Pharmacy of the Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB). Headed by professor Vera Rogiers, the depart-ment works in two main research domains: toxicologi-cal research, based on experimental in vitro toxicology and dermo-cosmetic research, covering various as-pects of measuring the efficacy and safety of cosmetic and dermatological products and their formulations.

The FAFY team is an active member of several Belgian and European associations in domains connected with the department’s scientific research and knowhow. At European level, Vera Rogiers is co-president of SCCP (Scientific Committee on Consumer Products), a mem-ber of the EPAA (European Partnership for Alternative Approaches to Animal Testing) mirror group, a member of ESAC (ECVAM Scientific Advisory Committee) and co-ordinator and research partner on several European projects.

The department holds regular national and internation-al scientific conferences, workshops and symposia. In addition, the department is a breeding ground for Ph.D. and post-doc research as a large number of master’s and Ph.D. theses have been successful defended over the past decade.

Every year, the department hosts two dermo-cosmetics courses that enjoy international recognition for their high quality and professional knowledge:• “Safety Assessment of Cosmetics in the EU”

(www.safetycourse.eu)• “Intensive Course in Dermato-Cosmetic Sciences”

(www.dermatocosmeticcourse.eu).

BELGIAN COSMETICS

19

• The safety report on the cosmetic product drawn up by a person with a university-level European qualification as a pharmacist, toxicologist or doctor or in an analo-gous discipline

• Proof of claimed effects, even if these are self-evident.

Composition The EU regulation restricts the composition of cosmetics products and includes: • A list of banned ingredients (appendix II)• A list of restricted substances (appendix III)• The lists of authorised colouring agents, preservatives

and ultraviolet filters (appendices IV-VI).

LabellingThe following statements must be included on the label of the cosmetic products:• Name and address of the responsible person• Nominal content (quantity)• Special user precautions (stated on the label at least in

the language or languages of the region in which the product is sold)

• Ingredients in their common EU INCI designation, as stated in the CosIng database

• Product function unless it is self-evident (stated on the label at least in the language or languages of the region in which the product is sold)

• Manufacturing lot number • Use before date: “best before end…” for products with a

shelf life of less than 30 months • Period within which the product must be used after

opening, expressed in months, for products with a shelf life of less than 30 months.

Supplementary informationConsumers can get more detailed information from the party responsible for bringing the product to market:• Qualitative composition of the cosmetic product• Concentration of certain ingredients• Frequency and nature of reported undesirable effects

The responsible person may be contacted at the address stated on the product label or at the contact points stated in the European Directory of Public Access (www.european-cosmetics.info/en/).

For more information• Directorate General for Internal Market, Industry,

Entrepreneurship and SMEs: ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics

• FPS Health, Food Chain Safety and Environment: www.health.belgium.be (French or Dutch only)

European cosmetics legislation, which is now in its

40th year, is a model for the world, helping both to

ensure consumers are properly protected and to

facilitate trade in the EU.

John Chave, Director-General, Cosmetics Europe,

Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)

We continue to encourage others to use the EU

Cosmetics Regulation as an inspiration for their

own legislation and are pleased to note that many

emerging markets, including ASEAN, Russia, Latin

America and China, have indeed done so.

Gerald Renner, Director Technical Regulatory Affairs, Cosmetics Europe,

Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)


20

1 >> OFFICIAL ORGANISATIONS

FPS Foreign Affairs Economic diplomacy is one of the basic missions of the FPS Foreign Affairs, which – operating within the current constitutional framework and taking account of the other stakeholders in the field – strives to promote Belgian economic interests abroad. It does this in a number of ways. For example, the FPS Foreign Affairs supports Belgian businesses in their international activities, with e.g. the economic missions of HRH Princess Astrid as representative of His Majesty the King and, increasingly, visits by the King provide substantial support to Belgian economic interests abroad.

We also promote Belgium internationally as a good place to do business. By actively participating in international forums such as the World Economic Forum, arranging bilateral visits and taking multilateral action in international organisations, the FPS Foreign Affairs aims to showcase the Belgian economy.

diplomatie.belgium.be/en

Flanders Investment & Trade, AWEX and Brussels Invest & Export each promote their own region: Flanders, Wallonia and Brussels. Their main assignments are threefold, which they are each free to achieve in their own way:

• To support exporters from the region• To inform, prospect for and advise potential foreign investors• To promote the region abroad

Alongside tax incentives, Belgian regions also grant companies significant financial incentives for recruitment, training, R&D, investment, consultancy and environmental protection.

SECTION 4

STAKEHOLDERS

BELGIAN COSMETICS

21

Flanders Investment & TradeFlanders Investment & Trade (FIT) promotes international enterprise in Flanders in a sustainable way as a key factor in the social and economic development of our region. FIT does so by supporting the international activities of Flemish companies and by attracting foreign investors to Flanders. FIT assists, supports and stimulates companies in international business. FIT offers tailored advice and guidance. Companies can call on its networks of contacts both at home and abroad. And FIT gives financial support and information on a wide range of financial incentives.

Flanders has many assets for ambitious Flemish enterprises and SMEs as well as for interested international companies. For Flemish companies, its region is a perfect gateway. For them, FIT tries to lower the threshold to doing business abroad. FIT promotes its services, provides information and knowledge about export and offers networking opportunities between entrepreneurs and brings them into contact with potential partners abroad.

Flanders is a pole of attraction for foreign companies: thanks to its central location in Europe, its strongly developed infrastructure, its innovative clusters and numerous other strengths. FIT tries to give them worldwide publicity. FIT adopts a tailored approach to potential investors and convinces them of the opportunities for their company in Flanders. Furthermore, FIT focus on existing investors in Flanders planning to expand their businesses.

Innovative clusters are of key importance to Flanders as a knowledge region. FIT helps these clusters in their internationalization process and tries to attract foreign investors capable of strengthening the cluster to grow into a major international player.

www.flandersinvestmentandtrade.com I www.investinflanders.com

AWEXThe Wallonia Export - Investment Agency (AWEX) offers general expertise in international economic relations. This expertise ranges from promoting Walloon exports through to seeking foreign investment (helping find suitable sites, explaining support measures and tax rules, and providing information on recruitment and staff training, project funding, etc). AWEX also provides a range of services to all Walloon businesses seeking to operate at international level. However it is also the partner of choice for all buyers, importers and foreign prospects who are looking for a partner in Wallonia and wanting to find products, equipment, technologies or services in the area.

Outside of Belgium, AWEX can rely on an international network of 109 financial and business attachés, covering more than 120 markets and some 20 international organisations. These representatives are the key contacts locally for any business or public body wishing to develop a business or a partnership relationship with Wallonia or simply wanting to find out about the economic potential of such a relationship.

At Walloon level, AWEX’s main partners are the competitiveness and technological clusters in particular.

www.awex.be I www.investinwallonia.be


22

Brussels Invest & Export Brussels Invest & Export works to promote foreign trade, assists Brussels companies, and attracts foreign investors to Brussels. It has built a database to help foreign investors with a specific project in mind find business partners in Brussels. Brussels Export has a foreign network of some 88 economic and trade attachés. Some of these are shared with FIT or AWEX.

Invest in Brussels specifically offers companies the opportunity to test Brussels as a business location for three months, providing them with free office space, secretarial services, facilities and professional advice from experts on suitable locations, support facilities, sector-related issues and legislation at Brussels and federal level, etc.

www.brusselsinvestexport.be I www.investinbrussels.com

2 >> COSMETICS INDUSTRY BODIES

essenscia essenscia, the Belgian Federation for Chemistry and Life Sciences industries, represents the interests of over 700 companies active in the fields of chemicals and life sciences.

With a turnover of EUR 64.3 billion, the chemical and pharma sector represents one fourth of the entire Belgian industry and employs 90,000 people. Chemicals, plastics and life sciences are the top export products of the country, representing a third of total Belgian exports.

This industry is also the most innovative sector of Belgium with EUR 3.6 billion in R&D-expenditures in 2015, representing nearly 60% of all the R&D in the manufacturing industry. This sector is highly diversified yet homogeneous covering a large range of products such as base chemicals, agrochemicals, plastics, paints & varnishes, detergents, drugs and vaccines as well as cosmetics and soaps.

Belgium is the number one chemical country in the world on a per capita basis. Belgium is also a world leader in pharmaceuticals and biotechnology which alone accounts for 10% of all Belgian exports.

www.essenscia.be/en

BELGIAN COSMETICS

23

DETIC DETIC is the Belgo-Luxembourg Association of producers and distributors of cosmetics, hygiene products and toiletries.

As the mouthpiece for its sectors in Belgium and the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, DETIC works to create and maintain a positive and sustainable image of its industries. Its central mission is to support, accompany and advise its members on the ‘responsible’ way to bring their products, services and solutions to market. DETIC provides expertise on regulatory and technical issues as well as in the field of communication and sustainable development.

The sector consists of many companies of differing sizes, ranging from major international organisations to small and medium-sizeda enterprises. In 2015, DETIC had 56 members in the cosmetics sector who recorded a turnover of around EUR 800 million on the Belgo-Luxembourg market. DETIC publishes a code of advertising and commercial communication that maps out practices in the sector in Belgium.

www.detic.be

Cosmetics Europe Cosmetics Europe - The Personal Care Association has been the voice of Europe’s EUR 70 billion (excluding exports) Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Industry since 1962. Cosmetics Europe represents the interests of more than 4.500 companies, ranging from major international cosmetics manufacturers to small, family-run businesses operating in niche markets. In 2015, direct and indirect employment in the European cosmetics industry was approximately 2 million people.

As the industry’s European trade association, Cosmetics Europe’s membership consists of large active and supporting international companies and active national associations. The national associations represent both the major international cosmetics manufacturers active in that country as well as national SMEs.

www.cosmeticseurope.eu

[…] Our industry continued to adapt to meet the needs of a changing world. A combination

of factors such as globalisation, digitalisation and the need for greater sustainability are

reshaping consumer behaviour with regard to cosmetics and personal care products. In

response to changing needs and expectations, we have to continue to deliver products of

the highest quality and safety, while remaining acutely conscious of the need to protect

resources. Our industry cannot stand still […]

John Chave, Director-General, Cosmetics Europe, Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)

SUCCESS STORIESIN BELGIUM

SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

26

Anhairco is a 100% Belgian family business that was formed way back in 1925. Originally a scissors and razor-blade business, Anhairco now imports salon supplies and manufactures cos-metic products, distributing both in Europe. The salon supplies depart-ment in Aartselaar has more than five thousand references, while cosmetics has its own production unit in Olen.

FLEXIBILITY IS KEY

The cosmetics business was set up in 1992 following the acquisition and ex-pansion of a production company. An-hairco made its biggest investment so far in 2004, acquiring a company man-ufacturing private label face and body care products. “It complemented our business perfectly,” says Tom Heyb-lom, general manager. “So we imme-diately decided to build a new produc-

tion unit to combine the two sites. That ensures we are ready for the future.”

In Olen the firm manages the whole chain, from development to produc-tion. “Flexibility is key at Anhairco,” says Heyblom. “We are active almost across the board in cosmetics, with hair, skin and even pet products. The only thing we don’t produce is make-up, as this requires a special tech-nique.”Anhairco can also fill just about anything, from small ampoules to large bottles and even bulk. “Our staff is trained to convert production lines quickly to the customer’s orders. We can mass produce, but we can just as well run off 500 pieces of a specific product,” adds plant manager Alfred Bellemans. This approach generates a variety of customers, from supermar-ket chain Aldi to start-ups that find it hard to predict how well their product will sell.

INTERVIEW WITH

Tom Heyblom, General Manager and Alfred Bellemans, Plant Manager

COMPANY

Anhairco

REGION

Flanders

Belgian family company

Founded in 1925, production capacity began in 1992

Two sites: Aartselaar (salon supplies) and Olen (production)

Turnover: EUR 7 million

40 employees

Export: Active in the Netherlands since 1988 and subsequently other

European countries

Export share in turnover: 50%

Eco and organic certification (BDIH)

Biocide certified

We can mass produce, but we can just

as well run off 500 pieces of a specific product.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

27

Some customers have a good idea of precisely what they want, others draw on Anhairco’s knowledge and experi-ence. In either case, the search for a new product begins in the laboratory. “We will then get to work on develop-ing a new formula or base ourselves on a formula we developed earlier and adapt it to suit the customer. Samples will be produced and the test phase will begin. We will be ready for produc-tion between six and twelve months down the line,” says Bellemans.

CUSTOMER SUPPORT

Heyblom explains that Anhairco does not aim to be the cheapest, but to dif-ferentiate itself from its international competitors based on the constant quality of its products. “The tests take a good three to four months. We guar-antee that the formula is stable and will not discolour or settle, for in-stance. We have seen customers go to foreign producers, but we have also seen them come back. It is already dif-ficult to make a product once, but the real challenge is getting the same high quality in every production run.”

“Good communication and service are also hugely important,” says Heyblom. Anhairco always enters into a dialogue with its customers to achieve the right product together. But support can be provided even after the product has been delivered. “It is the responsibility

of our customers to put together a product information file for every product they bring to market. Many of them are not active in that sphere. We can assist them to ensure they are able to market safe products that comply with all laws.”

Around 80% of production is destined for private labels, but Anhairco also has two house brands, Corona Profes-sional and Scarlett. These are includ-ed in the wide range of salon supplies through the company’s other busi-ness. “Almost every wholesaler in Bel-gium and the Netherlands has salon supplies from the Anhairco range. That means that our hair products reach a large group of consumers.”

BELGIAN SUPPORT

The Netherlands is roughly as impor-tant as Belgium for the company. With that in mind, Anhairco is currently roll-ing out a two-year communication plan to search for opportunities in the

market. “We have been active abroad before, but this is the first time we have gone to work in such a targeted way,” says Heyblom. “The Dutch customers are more enterprising, too, and will start projects sooner,” adds Alfred Bel-lemans. “They take more calculated risks and think ahead a bit more.”

That said, neither man regrets the fact that they are located in Belgium. “We are well integrated and we have built name awareness and a good reputa-tion. In a context that has seen a lot of colleagues disappear, we are proud that we are still standing firm as a Belgian producer.” The company es-pecially relies for support on Detic, which represents the sector and gives advice on legislation. And if a raw ma-terial is in short supply competitors in the vicinity show their solidarity. The north-east of Antwerp is fertile ground for companies in the industry. “There’s a reason why our region is known as Cosmetic Valley,” laughs Heyblom.

www.anhairco.be

We have seen customers go to foreign producers, but we have also seen them come back. It is already difficult to make a product once, but the real challenge

is getting the same high quality in every production run.


28

Established in Brussels in 1964, Codi-bel relocated to Zaventem a few years later, before settling in Seneffe, in Wallonia. “As a matter of interest, the first stone of our present building was laid on the day Lehman Brothers went bust,” says Michel Knops. “Codibel fi-nalised the biggest investment in its

history at a time when the global economy had just experienced great upheaval.”

Codibel is active in all three federal re-gions and feels very much at home in Belgium. “Wallonia is particularly wel-coming. The investment aid system, coupled with available subsidies, is very effective”.

Codibel offers a one-stop solution from conception to market through creative sustainable partnerships in

the health and beauty sector. The mot-to is simple: we make what you sell. The company is specialised in hair care, skin care and oral hygiene and the customer base includes wholesal-ers, hairdressers, beauticians and medical/paramedical organisations such as pharmacies and hospitals.

Besides its ‘private label’ activity, Cod-ibel also develops a range of in-house brands for hair care products: Kursaal, Labo Oily, Lagrange, Intensive Hair Care, Color Revive, Color Defence…

EXPORTING IS IN BELGIUM’S DNA

“Given the limited size of the Belgian market it appears crucial for SMEs to quickly take on an international di-mension in order to continue to grow.

INTERVIEW WITH

Michel Knops, CEO

Selling abroad is written into every Belgian company’s genes.

COMPANY

Codibel REGION

Wallonia

Creation: 1964

Place: Seneffe

30 employees

Consolidated turnover: EUR 6 million

Growth: > 10%

BELGIAN COSMETICS

29

Selling abroad is written into every Belgian company’s genes,” says Michel Knops.

It is hard to quantify Codibel’s foreign presence. “We have a direct presence abroad through the export of our own brands, but also indirectly through customers we work for under con-tract,” says Michel Knops. As well as Europe, products from our Seneffe plant can be found in Canada, the United States, Brazil, Australia, China, Taiwan and Hong Kong, which is proof of their acceptance and recognition at global level.

Codibel regularly joins economic missions with AWEX and takes part in many trade fairs and shows. Michel Knops feels that Codibel still has room for development in terms of visibility. “As one of our priorities, our strategic international development plan is built on an ambition to switch from sporadic to structured exports.” The company will initially focus efforts on bordering countries within the European Union, which have the advantage of being harmonised at regulatory and monetary level (no exchange risk in the euro zone).

A HIGHLY REGULATED INDUSTRY

The cosmetics industry is one of the most closely supervised and tightly controlled in Belgium. It is also one of the most regulated. Fortunately, com-panies are well informed and support-ed by both the national (DETIC) and EU (Cosmetics Europe) federations.

In the European Union, the cosmetics industry is governed by two main blocks of legislation: REACH (registra-tion, evaluation, authorisation and re-striction of chemicals) for ingredients

and the EU regulation on cosmetic products. “At first glance it is very re-strictive for modestly sized manufac-turers like us, but, when all is said and done, we are able to market state-of-the-art products that are highly per-formant from a technical and scientif-ic point of view”.

Michel Knops says that it is a plus Codibel can highlight when prospect-ing for new customers abroad. “In an ultra-competitive environment char-acterised by outstanding French and Italian companies in particular, we must be innovative and original if we are to differentiate ourselves and cre-ate added value and jobs. Our lead over the competition outside the EU in terms of regulation could prove inval-uable.”

SUSTAINABILITY: AN ISSUE FOR THE FUTURE

The Seneffe plant was built using sus-tainable materials, ensuring excellent insulation among other things. It has more than 500 solar panels, which cover 50% of its own power needs and minimises its carbon emissions. It is also connected to the new industrial water collection network, with a purifi-cation station just a few steps away from the site. Rainwater is harvested, stored and recycled for sanitary use and in a closed circuit for cooling pro-duction vessels.

Codibel now wants to take the next step and develop a range of sustaina-

ble products in terms of packaging, product and manufacturing process. “Sustainability remains today more a matter of motivation than obligation. However, it is close to our hearts and we want to use it as a means of differ-entiating ourselves,” says Michel Knops.

“Economic performance must be paired with social and environmental progress. Sustainability is the only way forward. Our choice has been to privi-lege inspiration over competition for a stronger community and a healthier way to do business. This ambitious ob-jective enables us to pursue our devel-opment in a responsible manner, which surpasses pure financial con-siderations. At the same time our pri-ority remains fulfilling customer satis-faction by supplying products destined to be widely consumed without re-striction, and allowing our employees to participate actively in a ‘responsi-ble-citizen’ attitude, which we all hope will transcend future generations.”

Michel Knops ends by giving his own definition of sustainability, formulated as a goal for Codibel: “Developing and selling cosmetic products that fulfil the expectations of people today with-out jeopardizing the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”

www.codibel.be

Economic performance must be paired with social and environmental progress.

Sustainability is the only way forward.


30

A FAMILY ADVENTURE

For almost 30 years, Cosmebel, a family business, has been active in a niche cosmetics market: care for dark skinned people. This segment only makes up about 2% of the global mar-ket. Cosmebel is involved in bringing many different skincare products to market, both its own product range and third-party brands custom-pro-duced at its specialised plants. “Our company is a real family,” explains Maurice Bertrand. “I formed the com-pany in 1989, based on my extensive experience of the pharmaceuticals in-dustry and trade with Africa. My goal is to meet the growing demand for trust-worthy products to treat pigment spots, and lighten and unify the com-plexion. The first care product won a prize at the Salon des Inventeurs in 1991 and the range has been improved and added to ever since.” Cosmebel now has eight employees and practi-cally the whole family is involved.

SAFE, HIGH-QUALITY AND EFFECTIVE

All Cosmebel products contain an in-gredient developed in-house by the company: an active vegetable extract that comes from Asian plants. “It is essential that we only use ingredients that do no harm to the skin.”

The company is very keen to protect the reputation of its skincare brand. When poor-quality copies have threat-ened one of its products, Cosmebel has withdrawn it and launched a new range. The company also rules out working with partners that are not too particular about efficacy.

“This commitment does not affect pricing: we remain competitive,” says Maurice Bertrand. Cosmebel develops and markets skincare products for all budgets: Nutriclair-branded products for the mass market, Clear Sensation, a mid-price series, and Klaris, a more luxurious range of no fewer than ten skincare products that is coming onto

INTERVIEW WITH

Maurice Bertrand, founder and consultant

COMPANY

Cosmebel REGION

Brussels

Formation: 1989

Place: Brussels

8 employees

Export share: 85%

Turnover in 2015: EUR 2.5 million

The company is very keen to protect the reputation of its skincare brand.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

31

the market soon. “Nutriclair is a big success. We project a 30-40% rise in sales in 2016.”

ON THE INTERNATIONAL STAGE

Cosmebel has offices, a warehouse and a shop in Brussels. “Being from Brussels myself, the city was a natural choice, but it does hold several advan-tages, too. Brussels benefits from its central geographical position, it has good logistical connections and it is not too far from Paris. That’s where we meet most of our customers.” In spite of the relatively high costs, the kno-whow of the Belgian employees has made the Belgian capital an ideal base.

Cosmebel is very much a globalised business, with suppliers in Asia and Europe, producers in Europe and cus-tomers on three continents. “We have benefited from the support of the Bel-gian Foreign Trade Agency (which was regionalised in 2002) since the very beginning for our foreign business trips. They provide invaluable assis-tance when we visit several countries in one trip.”

Cosmebel products are mainly export-ed to Africa, but customers are also found in the major European cities, such as Brussels, Paris and London, and to a lesser degree in the United States. “That’s a market we are work-ing on right now,” says Maurice Ber-trand. India and China also have great potential. African partners also mar-ket their own brands in association with the Belgian company. “We are getting more and more of these cus-tom requests.”

ALWAYS MOVING FORWARD

The youngest member of the family has recently started raising Cosme-bel’s profile on social networks. The latest campaign clocked up 25,000 likes on Facebook and the company certainly intends to work on this chan-nel. To improve its visibility, the com-pany is also preparing to take part in trade shows and fairs in Africa.

It also refines its products to keep

customers satisfied. “For instance, there’s a high demand for car-rot-based care products and Cosme-bel has hooked into this trend.” The bottles have also gradually got bigger.

And the Klaris range is expected to drive the future of the company. EUR 100,000 has been invested in this new range, which will be available soon.

“And why not develop organic care products?” asks Maurice Bertrand.

www.cosmebel.com

The knowhow of the Belgian employees has made the Belgian capital

an ideal base.


32

Ecover makes washing up, laundry, personal care and household prod-ucts. There’s a single unifying ambi-tion behind the whole range, from shower gel and dishwasher tablets to window cleaner: making the world a better place.

AWARD-WINNING PHILOSOPHY

Ecover strives to achieve this ambi-tion, day in, day out, by marketing high-quality products at an acceptable price that also help protect the envi-ronment. That’s why the company re-fuses to use synthetic chemicals, un-like most of the competition. “They always end up in the water supply and have a negative impact on the environ-ment,” says Steven Van Den Ouweland, Head of Marketing BeNeFraLux and Export Markets. “We look for natural equivalents that are environmentally neutral or can even have a restorative effect in the future.”

This quest for an environmentally neu-tral product cycle is continued in the packaging. An empty bottle of laundry liquid or soap is usually thrown away or in the best case scenario recycled. That’s why Ecover ensures its bottles

are as recyclable as possible. “That means the packagings seem a bit less flashy and glossy, but they have a low-er impact on the environment and contain a lot less plastic,” says Van Den Ouweland. Ecover goes even fur-ther with its award-winning Oceans Plastic bottle. This bottle contains 10% recycled plastic reclaimed from the oceans. “We would like to increase that percentage, but the supply chain does not allow you to obtain more in a sustainable way, so we don’t.”

Ecover is a challenger on the market. More than one million Belgians have bought an Ecover product in recent months. At the same time, Ecover ap-plauds the increasing competition from companies who are going green. “It’s better to have a bigger pie rather than a bigger slice of a small pie,” says Van Den Ouweland. People against Dirty, the merged group to

INTERVIEW WITH

Steven Van Den Ouweland, Head of Marketing BeNeFraLux and Export Markets

COMPANY

Ecover

REGION

Flanders

Formation: 1979

Place: Malle

500 employees across the whole group

Turnover: EUR 250 million, half of it generated by Ecover

Growth: At least 10% annually. Double the turnover by 2020.

Prizes: A sustainability prize and a design prize for the Limited Edition bottle made of

ocean plastic

Abroad: First neighbouring countries in the 1990s,

now almost the whole of Europe, North America, Asia (China and Japan) and

Oceania.

Environmental awareness is very important for our sales.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

33

which Ecover and Method in the Unit-ed States belong, have quite an ambi-tion. Annual growth of at least 10% has been mapped out.

FROM BELGIUM TO NEW ZEALAND

To achieve this, export has been given a big place in the scheme of things. Ecover currently markets its products directly in 11 countries. As well as neighbouring countries and other western European countries, that in-cludes Australia and New Zealand. “Our products resonate very well in Oceania, countries that led the fight against global warming. And environ-mental awareness is very important for our sales; we now see that coun-tries in northern Europe score much higher than those in southern Europe.”

The market in countries where de-mand is not yet strong enough is served through distribution partners, who regularly propose new opportuni-ties, based on their local experience. Many of them were found at special-ised trade shows. “In the long term we may take the reins in more countries, but we must not to get ahead of our-selves in our growth.”

Malle is the production location for Europe, part of Asia, the Middle East

and part of Australia. A new produc-tion line, which is expected to turn the home market into even more of an op-erating base, came on stream in June 2016. “Globalisation is completely contrary to our way of thinking,” says Van Den Ouweland. “But the quality of young chemists and biologists in Bel-gium is exceptionally high, too. The good universities create a huge net-work through which knowledge can be shared.”

RULES OF THE GAME

Seven out of ten Belgians know the Ecover brand and market share is highest here. The company is proud that it has helped highlight the envi-ronmental awareness of Belgians. “I’m confident that an ecological pri-vate label in Belgium would not have been possible if we had not opened up the market,” says Van Den Ouweland. But Ecover products also raise aware-ness internationally. “We are changing the rules of the game. Our products give the European commission am-munition to tighten its laws. Ecover shows that products can be highly ef-fective without having to contain harmful detergents.”

Ecover looks to the future with a great deal of ambition and impatience. By 2025 the company wants to achieve a

four-fold increase in turnover. The company is already well represented internationally, although Asia is still in a start-up phase and it is not active in Africa as yet. “But things are moving fast there too. We note that the cus-tomer base for our products in such countries is increasing and we will in-vest there.” The ambitions are also big in countries where the company is al-ready strong. “We aim to broaden our target group to include everyday con-sumers by investing even more in R&D and making our products even better, to educate them about harmful sub-stances in regular laundry and clean-ing products without putting them off due to perceived lower quality.”

Turnover and R&D targets are very high, but one ambition towers above them. “We are a member of B Corp, which provides a framework and certification for companies wishing to benefit society as well as their shareholders. Our in-tention is to top that list worldwide.”

be.ecover.com

An ecological private label in Belgium would not have been possible if we

had not opened up the market.


34

Expanscience Laboratoires is a French pharmaceuticals and dermocosmetics group. The group’s foundations were laid in 1950 by Paul Berthomé, whose son is currently at its head. The group has two core businesses, skincare and products for people with reduced mobility. Expanscience Laboratoires has subsidiaries in 14 countries and is active in 85 countries across five continents.

The parent company has developed a number of products for people with reduced mobility, including Piascledine 300, one of the world’s most successful anti-osteoarthritis products. This business accounts for around one third of the group’s global turnover. The Belgian site does not yet distribute these products.

Skincare is the second core business of Expanscience Laboratoires. The Mustela brand is targeted at babies and young mothers. The group is also diversifying into dermocosmetics with Noviderm, which treats acne and hy-

perpigmentation. All told, the skincare business accounts for almost 60% of worldwide turnover and is the sole fo-cus of the Belgian subsidiary.

SCIENTIFIC UNDERPINNING

Expanscience Laboratoires opened its first foreign subsidiary in Belgium in 1963. Hilde Weckx, CEO of Expansci-ence Laboratoires Belgium, explains that the affinity with the language played a role, as did the advantageous synergy of the Anglo-Saxon (Flemish) and the Latin (Walloon) model. In the early days, the three employees worked in Brussels together with a lo-cal distributor. A more independent structure with its own administration was created in the late eighties and early nineties. The Belgian subsidiary now employs 21 people in Zellik, Flemish Brabant.

In theory the Belgian subsidiary serves the whole of the Benelux. Mustela is

INTERVIEW WITH

Hilde Weckx, CEO

COMPANY

Expanscience

REGION

Flanders

Group formed in 1950, Belgian subsidiary in 1963

14 sites, distributors in more than 80 countries, active on all continents.

Belgian site: Zellik

Employees: 21 in Belgium, 977 worldwide

Turnover in 2015: almost €7 million in Belgium,

€272.3 million worldwide

Number of products sold in 2015: 1 million in Belgium,

66 million worldwide

Growth in Belgium: +6%

843 patents worldwide

Awards for Expanscience Laboratoires Belgium: Greener Packaging Award 2014

for Mustela

MUSTELA®, ALLES BEGINT MET DE HUID

innoveren om uw gezondheid te bewaren

duratrans-2016.indd 2 22/06/16 16:26

Enlarging distribution to the

big retail chains? It would be an easy

way to achieve higher turnover, but

it would not tally with our values and

philosophy.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

35

sold in both Belgium and Luxem-bourg, but Expanscience Laboratoires is yet to develop a significant presence in the Netherlands. “We do sell over the border, in Sluis, but we do not yet do any active promotion,” says Weckx. However, there are ambitions to enter the Dutch market. The biggest chal-lenge is the distribution model. “In the Netherlands products like Mustela are sold in drugstores, but we have the ex-pertise to establish partnerships with pharmacies.”

Reaching out to stakeholders in the home market is central to the Belgian team’s strategy. There are visits to pharmacies as well as doctors, der-matologists, paediatricians and mid-wives. Above all, Weckx swears by a scientific approach. That is also why Mustela is only available through pharmacies. “Enlarging distribution to the big retail chains? It would be an easy way to achieve higher turnover, but it would not tally with our values and philosophy.”

UNDISPUTED MARKET LEADER

This strategy pays off for Expansci-ence Laboratoires. In Europe the brand is the undisputed market lead-er. Weckx explains that a lot of compa-nies market baby brands but soon pull out of the market because there is such a dominant leader. Mustela has more than 60% market share in Bel-gium too. “We even have 100% pene-tration. Our products are sold in every single pharmacy in Belgium, especial-ly due to the demand from young par-ents,” says Weckx.

That dominance is partly explained by the excellent ties the company main-tains with maternity wards. “When we arrive there with Mustela the doors are opened wide. And if you can be present with your product at the birth, you immediately establish an emo-tional band that is hard to top.” The focus on the emotional aspect is also reflected in the look and feel. The

Mustela formula is no longer the same as it was 60 years ago, but the per-fume is. “People sometimes say that it smells of baby. That is actually the smell of Mustela.”

CSR IN THEIR DNA

Expanscience Laboratoires endeav-ours to maintain the positivity gener-ated around the birth in its focus on corporate social responsibility. “It’s in our company’s DNA,” says Weckx. The Belgian subsidiary is a member of “The Shift”, the meeting place for sus-tainability in Belgium. To mark its six-tieth anniversary the company devel-oped “the Mustela forest”, with trees planted for every birth announcement card the company received. There are also partnerships with SOS Children’s Villages, Villa Rozenrood and others.“It’s not enough to have good products nowadays. Who is behind it, what is behind it, are they involved in CSR? That trend has been established and I think it will become even more impor-tant over the next few years. We cer-tainly want to provide that information. We want to be an open book for con-sumers,” says Weckx. With that in mind, the company is also investing in digital accessibility, among other things through the Mustela & Me app, which provides help and assistance to mums-to-be from week to week. In line with the scientific approach that is so typical to Expanscience Labora-toires, this is done in close association with doctors, gynaecologists, dieti-cians and psychologists.

www.expanscience.com/en

People sometimes say that it smells of baby. That is actually the

smell of Mustela.


36

JYB is a Belgian company that produces and markets cosmetics with the world’s highest percentage of organic ingredients. JYB is very keen to reconcile pleasure with the use of the best-quality organic ingredients.

HISTORY

After five years of R&D, JYB was offi-cially formed in 2012 by two partners with complementary profiles: Jean-Yves Berlaymont (knowledge of the beauty industry, marketing, R&D and production) and Charles-Antoine Huy-brechts (financier, commercial and administrative). They now hold all the shares, which ensures the company’s independence.

BUSINESS

The brand was launched in October 2013 and business got off to a flying start a year later. The biggest name on the pharmaceuticals market, Mul-tipharma, showed its faith in JYB. They were soon followed by LloydsPharma, the second biggest.

The range originally comprised seven products, but that has since been en-larged to ten: anti-age eye contour balm, facial oil, day cream, night cream, moisturising mask, exfoliating mask, face cleansing gel, herbal dis-tillate, moisturising body gel and an essential cream.

JYB won an Elle Beauty Award for its exfoliating mask in 2015.

INTERVIEW WITH

Charles-Antoine Huybrechts, cofounder

COMPANY

JYB Cosmetics

REGION

Brussels

Formation: 2012

Place: Ixelles

2 employees and use of freelancers

Growth: > 10%, exponential

JYB products are natural care products

with the world’s highest percentage of organic

ingredients.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

37

Products are only sold through phar-macies and para-pharmacies. There are two reasons for this:- The credibility of the products on

offer. - The growing awareness of con-

sumers to product composition. As a result, there is a shift in cos-metics buying habits from per-fume shops to pharmacies. Some large groups are also trying to grow this sales channel.

IN-HOUSE PRODUCTION

The company manufactures its whole range at its ISO 22716-certified labo-ratory in Ixelles, which ensures full traceability while keeping costs in check. That certification also opens the gates to the international market.

GOING GLOBAL

JYB moved into the export market in 2015 and more than 55% of turnover is already generated abroad.

There is a distributor in Italy and one in Hong Kong. The products are also sold at several Monoprix stores in Paris and in selected pharmacies in London.

Negotiations are ongoing with the Gulf States (initial contacts were made during the royal trade mission to Qatar and the United Arab Emirates in 2015), Spain, Norway and Switzerland.

CONSTANT INVESTMENT POLICY AND PUBLIC SECTOR SUPPORT

JYB constantly invests in its laboratory and R&D (enlargement of the range, development of formulas).

The company has benefited from subsi-dies to convert its premises, participate in trade shows, develop its website and create flyers, among other things.

It is in regular contact with Brussels Invest and Export and is always in-volved in royal trade missions to ensure its growth on international markets.

As well as these financial incentives, JYB also benefits from Belgium’s fine credentials as a test market.

FUTURE

In coming years JYB plans to increase its presence internationally while adding to its range to respond to the growing consumer interest for high-grade natural organic cosmetics, which people love.

www.jybcosmetics.com

JYB also benefits from Belgium’s fine credentials as a

test market.


38

As part of the Consumer Products Divi-sion of L’Oréal Group the Libramont fac-tory has since 2013 been specialised in the manufacturing of hair colour kits for the European market. Producing these kits is a complex process. The best-sell-ing kit is composed of no less than three products: a colouring cream, an oxidant and a hair treatment. The kit also in-cludes an instruction leaflet, a pair of gloves and an accessory for application, for example a comb.

The L’Oréal group has significant exper-tise in hair colouring. Eugène Schueller, L’Oréal’s founder, was the inventor of the first permanent colouring. The Libramont factory produces over 205 million colour-ing kits every year.

LONG HISTORY IN BELGIUM

L’Oréal Group set up its first international branch in Belgium in 1937. “The factory that was set up in Uccle in 1948 had be-come too small, so relocation was need-ed,” says Etienne Genin. The L’Oreal fac-tory in Libramont was opened in 1975 and celebrated its 40th anniversary last year. This particular site was chosen because

of its size (45 ha), its location and favour-able conditions offered by the provincial governor. IDELUX, the economic develop-ment agency of the province of Luxem-bourg, also played its role in the decision. “And when 40 years later we decided to build a greenhouse and a water treatment system, we again had full support of pub-lic authorities such as AWEX, the Wallon-ian agency for exportation and foreign in-vestments.”

Despite a certain administrative complex-ity, Belgium benefits from a central posi-tion in Europe, excellent infrastructures and a highly qualified workforce. “Howev-er, the Libramont factory’s location near the Luxembourgian border makes the re-cruitment of people with technical train-ing, like electromechanical engineers, a little bit more difficult.”

AN EXPERT IN COLOURING

The colouring kits that are manufactured at the Libramont factory are intended for the general public. They are sold to com-mercial enterprises who distribute them to hyper- or supermarkets. Only 2% of the kits produced in Libramont are intended

INTERVIEW WITH

Etienne Genin, factory director

COMPANY

L’Oréal Libramont

REGION

Wallonia

Part of L’Oréal Group

Founded in 1975

Situated in Libramont

400 employees

Turnover in 2015 (L’Oréal Belgilux): EUR 248.9 million

Growth in 2015 (L’Oréal Belgilux): +1.6%

Investments: EUR 10 million per year on average

Export share: 98%

100% green energy since 2009

The quality of our products and our logistical agility always remain

our strong points.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

39

for Belgian sales, the rest is exported to other countries such as Germany, France, the UK, Italy, Spain and Russia. Further-more, L’Oréal Libramont supplies 33 in-ternal L’Oréal customers.

“Two different trends are present in Eu-rope,” explains Etienne Genin. “On the one hand, Eastern European countries are developing at a fast pace year after year. While on the other hand, the demand in Western European countries is becom-ing steadier. However, the quality of our products and our logistical agility always remain our strong points, whatever the destination of the products may be.”

L’Oréal’s ambition for 2020 is to attract a billion new customers while consuming less energy and natural resources.

ENVIRONMENTALLY CONSCIOUS

Particular about the Libramont site is that since 2011 it also houses one of L’Oréal’s suppliers. “All our shampoo bottles are

produced on site and immediately brought to the filling machines. This way we have eliminated excess transportation packag-ing while reducing internal flows within the factory and creating additional eco-nomic activity in the region.”

L’Oréal Libramont is very proud to have made the switch to 100% green energy in 2009 with the creation of a biomethane unit. This unit allows the creation of bio-gas through the fermentation of vegetable substances from agri-foodstuffs waste. This gas fuels three cogeneration engines that together produce enough energy to meet 250% of the factory’s electricity con-sumption. The surplus energy the factory makes is transferred back to the electric-ity grid. Furthermore, the biomethane unit provides enough energy for 90% of heating and 60% of the vapour production.

Sustainable production is one of the pri-mary aims of L’Oréal’s Sharing Beauty With All commitment, a project to raise the Group’s share in sustainable develop-ment by 2020. In the context of this pro-jects, L’Oréal has been ambitious when it

comes to setting up the targets of the group, on a global level, and the targets of 44 factories and distribution centres. Car-bon emission, water consumption and waste production will be reduced to a 60% difference compared to the company’s re-sults in 2005. Furthermore, no more waste will be dumped.

The Libramont site has already reduced its carbon emissions by 180% compared to the company’s results in 2005. Water con-sumption has been reduced by 60% at the beginning of 2016. The factory has its own water treatment system that allows to re-use the water used during the production of the kits for cleaning purposes. “In con-clusion, we have reduced water consump-tion per colour kit from 80cl in 2005 to only 23cl in 2015.” The factory has made enor-mous progress in waste management as well : waste dumping has been called to a stop in 2005. Between 2005 and 2015 the presence of suppliers on site and the reus-ing of crates has contributed to a 25% de-cline in waste production.

The 800 m² greenhouse allowed to reduce the amount of sludge generated by the factory’s water treatment system by 1200 metric tons per year. The dry residue that is created out of this sludge is used at ce-ment manufacturing.

In 2015 L’Oréal Group continued to grow while consuming less energy, which proves that environmental protection and growth can in fact go hand in hand.

CONSTANT RENEWAL

“L’Oréal’s stongest point is the regular launch of new products,” says Etienne Genin. “Our future looks bright in the cos-metics industry, but we must keep up with new trends and strike when the time is right.”

www.loreal.com

Our future looks bright in the

cosmetics industry, but we must keep

up with new trends and strike when the time is right.


40

These are busy times at Mylène. The company celebrated its fiftieth anni-versary in 2015 and decided to give it-self a rejuvenating cure. The current efforts are set to bear fruit in January 2018, with a product image upgrade to better reflect the high quality of the range.

PRODUCT AND EXPERIENCE

“We will not tinker with the original concept of consultants who sell prod-ucts at home parties,” says Alain Duperray, CEO of Mylène. “If we were to sell our products through the retail channel we would probably gain more exposure, but we would lose touch with our customers. I do not believe we would be able to duplicate our Bel-

gian turnover immediately.” Plus this personal way of working characteris-es the Mylène brand.

Originally, Mylène only sold cosmetics products, but the range was soon ex-panded to meet demand at home par-ties, as reported by consultants. As well as a Beauty department, which focuses on cosmetics and make-up, Mylène now also has a Home depart-ment. This markets cleaning prod-ucts, as well as a collection of textiles (from towels to pyjamas) and interior design products, such as roomsticks and scented candles.

“Whatever we sell, the quality must always be excellent,” says the CEO. “Constant quality is very important. If one person at a home party says they like a product, she will not only buy

INTERVIEW WITH

Alain Duperray, CEO and Filip Meersman, R&D manager

COMPANY

Mylène

REGION

Flanders

Formed in 1965

Heist-op-den-Berg

101 permanent employees and a sales force of

3,500 active consultants

Turnover 2015: EUR 42 million

BRC Global Standards in Consumer Products

If one person at a home party says they like a product, she will not only buy the product again,

she will also encourage other people round the table to

buy and use it.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

41

the product again, she will also en-courage other people round the table to buy and use it. Bearing in mind that the consultant’s relationship with her hostess and customers is based on personal perceptions, word of mouth is a hugely powerful sales method.”

NEW LOOK

Mylène products are of comparable quality to the well-known brands, de-spite being competitively priced. “We also focus strongly on using lots of active ingredients rather than shaping perceptions of product quality with marketing tools and through look and feel, as can sometimes be the case with other brands,” says Filip Meers-man, R&D manager. Formula devel-opment and quality checks all take place at the company’s own laborato-ry. Production is also completely in Mylène’s own hands. “To safeguard quality we make relatively small pro-duction batches. The advantage is that the product lead time is very short and we do not have to store large stocks. Most of our suppliers are Belgian, so we keep the quality high and are able to benefit from their expertise through interaction,” says Meersman.

The home party concept is based on an experience in which the customer is given advice on the products, so conspicuously praising ingredients or putting claims explicitly on the packaging was not really done until recently. Because buyers were immediately given this information in person. “Now we are finally going to give both these things a prominent place,” says Duperray. “We have scheduled the full rebranding of the product line. Not only the logo and the strapline, but also the shape, the cap, the pump and so on. Everything will be reviewed.”

Mylène has the ambition to grow fur-ther with this new look, which reflects the quality of the contents. “We have both consultants and customers that have been with us from the very be-ginning. It is time to rejuvenate our-selves and get the new generation of consultants and customers acquaint-ed with the experience concept and our products,” says Duperray. A reju-venation among the 3500 consultants at Mylène will immediately lead to a rejuvenation among customers. Be-cause a 25-year-old consultant will primarily work in her own age group.

A STRONG BRAND ABROAD

“By giving the products a stronger image we can also become more ac-tive abroad. Mylène already does business in neighbouring countries, as a historical consequence of how we work. The consultants were origi-nally highly concentrated in the Campine and the network gradually spread out. “Countries like Germany and the Netherlands are close by; our

presence there has grown organically through consultants. But now we can look further, too, with ambition.”

It will take a long time to build up a network of consultants as strong as those in Belgium and the Nether-lands. With that in mind, other distri-bution channels will be considered for other countries. “As long as the distribution partner has the ambition of covering a whole market or region and establishing the Mylène brand,” says Duperray.

Our number one priority is monitor-ing our superior product quality to-gether with dynamic multi-level mar-keting. “Food and cosmetics are the most intimate products there are. You need to trust what you are eating or rubbing onto your skin. People want to pay a specific price for that, provid-ed there are health and safety guar-antees. That is even more of an issue for the new generation. We are re-sponding to that.”

www.mylene.be

Not only the logo and the strapline, but also the shape, the cap, the pump and so on. Everything will

be reviewed.


42

Nadine Salembier devotes most of her time to improving the wellbeing of women by helping them to be as beau-tiful as they can be. She works hard to produce beauty products at the cutting edge of research and innovation. A trained beautician, Nadine Salembier started working in the 1960s, bringing back from her many journeys around the globe natural ingredients that made her name. She surrounded her-self with cosmetics and beauty care experts to create a range of personally branded natural products. In 2013 she was officially elevated to the position of holder of a royal warrant as a supplier to the Belgian court in recognition of her years of service as Queen Mathilde’s personal beauty ad-visor. One of the trailblazers of modern beauty, Nadine Salembier is now the foremost expert on beauty in Belgium and beyond, as president of the Nation-al Union and the International Federa-tion Of Aestheticians.

THE FIRST INSTITUTES

The history of Nadine Salembier Diffu-sion began in 1962 when the founder, Nadine Salembier, opened her first beauty institute in Comines, Belgium.The Nadine Salembier brand was launched in 1973. The products were developed in light of the knowledge of beauty problems reported by her own clients and those of the beauty insti-tutes. At the same time, the Brussels institute opened in the heart of Brus-sels’ chicest neighbourhood on avenue Louise. The company employs 15 people and is run like a family business.

INTERNATIONAL EXPANSION

As a company that is open to the world, Nadine Salembier Diffusion quickly ex-

panded on the international stage. From 1980 new products were added to the range, attracting interest abroad. The company’s first foreign clients were based in Switzerland and Hong Kong. Princess Mathilde opened the first Beauty and Life Center in Kuala Lum-pur, Malaysia in 2001. Others followed in Casablanca (2003), Bangkok (2004), Da-mascus (2010), Baghdad (2011), Egypt, Lebanon, Benin and elsewhere. Nadine Salembier now has distributors around the globe, from Toronto to Hong Kong. There are 110 Nadine Salembi-er-branded centres in Taiwan. Exports account for 25% of turnover. The main markets are in Asia (Taiwan, Malaysia and Hong Kong), followed by Morocco, Spain and Portugal.In her expansion efforts Nadine Sa-lembier has benefited from the support of AWEX, which has played an invaluable role in establishing business contacts. She also benefitted from Brussels in-vestment aid when opening her institute in the city. And Rentic and E-business provided assistance for the launch of the website and the online store.

A FULL RANGE OF NATURAL PRODUCTS

The experience acquired providing care at the institute led to the creation of an extensive beauty range for both trade customers and consumers. The prod-ucts have been specially developed to respond to the beauty concerns of wom-en and men across the globe. Smooth creams, light lotions, fruity masks – the panoply of natural products meets a whole host of beauty needs. Research and development is key to the success of products. The ingredi-ents are sourced from various parts of the world – only the best are accepted.

INTERVIEW WITH

Nadine Salembier, founder

COMPANY

Nadine Salembier

REGION

Wallonia

Formation: 1973

Sites: Comines and Brussels

15 employees

Export share: 25%

Holder of a royal warrant as a supplier to the Belgian court

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BELGIAN COSMETICS

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Up to twelve natural plants go into each finished product. The products are tested and are subject to a continual improvement process. Every product is registered with the relevant authorities in Belgium and the European Union.Nadine Salembier-branded products have been on the market for more than 30 years. Private label runs are also available as bulk or as fully packaged finished products.The company is also fully committed to sustainable development. Plastic pack-aging is 100% polyolefin, which is fully recyclable. Bottles are made from 85% recyclable material. Suppliers are cho-sen that are close to the production site to reduce the environmental footprint. And airless packaging technology is used to ensure the cosmetic products are given the very best protection.

A FAMILY COMPANY WITH UNIQUE KNOW-HOW

Both the cosmetics industry and the environment in which the beauty insti-tutes do business are highly competi-tive. Nadine Salembier has always pri-oritised quality over quantity. Growth is not based on a “drive for business or production volume”, but squarely on quality. The company’s foremost strengths are flexibility, long experi-ence and the high quality of training to

pass on knowhow and experience.Nadine Salembier is highly involved in the future of the industry, working tirelessly for properly supervised, fully accredited, high-grade training. She argues for the need to further improve the image and prestige of the industry and considers beauticians to be “beauty nurses”. Training is held in Brussels and Comines, where train-ees stay at the Institut Saint-Henri’s own accommodation. For example, Nadine Salembier recently gave an in-ternationally recognised training course to 300 students at the beauty school in Damascus. A hundred and twenty candidates currently receive make-up, beauty and beautification training in Charleroi. She is highly de-manding and expects the very best from her trainees.Nadine Salembier herself attended a very good school. In the 1970s she was trained in semi-permanent make-up in Japan, the cradle of this technique. After completing this training, in 1985 she became the first European to start practising the semi-permanent make-up technique, which was revolutionary at the time. She is now a leading ex-pert.

NADINE SALEMBIER’S SOCIAL ENGAGEMENT

Alongside her institutional work and

commercial activities, Nadine Salemb-ier has always felt very strongly about defending and supporting major so-cial, medical and animal causes. For example, she sponsored the set-ting up of a women’s cooperative in the north of Benin. The women harvest the nuts of the shea, which are used in a new line of rich, exclusive products. Nadine Salembier is also involved in aesthetics in the hospital environment, responding to a request from an oncol-ogy hospital in the Lille region to help improve the well-being of cancer pa-tients. A similar project is ongoing in the Brussels-Capital Region. It is part of a partnership with gener-ous young beauticians who give their time to provide beauty care to patients at the oncology hospital there. They needed professional products to pro-vide care and ensure the project was viable. Nadine Salembier offered her products.

FUTURE

The family company remains attentive to all developments and opportunities in the industry, which are key to its cur-rent and future growth.The new Univers Balnéo centre recent-ly opened to the general public in Na-dine Salembier’s birthplace. And a new e-commerce platform is set for launch in the near future, with a web app to follow in the second half of 2016.

www.nadine-salembier.com

BEAUTY, A MISSION

Improving the well-being of women is a job for specialists. Beauty is

important to women, but in today’s world they do not have a lot of time to

take care of themselves. Women in the 1960s had free time to spare, but

today’s women work all day and have to fight to stay feminine in the little

time they do have for themselves. My mission is to highlight women’s natural

beauty, while respecting their identity. In my career spanning fifty years, I

have known every stage in a woman’s life: from adolescence to adulthood

and on into maturity. So I know all about those stages and the corresponding

needs of women going through them. That means that I can meet all their

expectations. Beauty care is about sharing; it is a gift to others.


44

SERVING THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY

“Our family company provides consul-tancy services on EU directives and regulations concerning medical de-vices and the cosmetics industry,” says Sandra Ferretti. In addition, cos-metics manufacturers can also desig-nate the company as their ‘responsi-ble person’ within the European Union.

The aim of the new EU cosmetics reg-ulation that came into force in 2013 is to make cosmetics sold in the Euro-pean Union safer and strengthen the responsible person concept. Manu-facturers can only sell products in the European Union if they have designat-ed a person or company within the EU in this role. This party is responsible for ensuring that the product meets all relevant safety requirements un-der the legislation. “As a responsible person, Obelis provides a wide range of services to its clients, from check-ing compliance to product registra-tion, plus a whole battery of tests. We also work with assessors and special-ist laboratories to ensure the impar-tiality of the product safety assess-ment.”

Some manufacturers underestimate the complexity and the costs of the process when they do it themselves. It is not at all easy to put together a file

that states all the characteristics of a product and the ingredients. Putting the regulatory aspects to one side, manufacturers also run the risk of having a sales ban imposed on their cosmetics. “The regulation must not obstruct innovation and business,” says Sandra Ferretti. Obelis ensures its services are value for money.

Among other things, the company ad-vises its clients on the development of an EU strategy. It informs them about

the checks they will be subjected to and lobbies the European Commis-sion in defence of their interests even before laws are passed. “This allows manufacturers to focus on their prior-ity, which is selling products.” Obelis has worked for companies of all sizes – micro, small, mid-sized and large – for almost 30 years now.

VISIONARY MANAGEMENT

After obtaining ISO certification for its medical devices services, Obelis man-agement made the same changes and improvements to the procedures used for their cosmetics activities. The company created the responsible per-son concept even before the EU au-thorities imposed it. Its services to the cosmetics industry are also ISO-certi-fied. This high-quality management system made Obelis a trailblazer, as

INTERVIEW WITH

Sandra Ferretti, chief compliance officer

The regulation must not obstruct innovation and business.

Obelis ensures its services are value for money.

COMPANY

Obelis

REGION

Brussels

Formation date: 1988

Place: Brussels

30 employees in Belgium

Export share: 95%

Presence abroad: branches in the United States and Israel, and

agents in 15 countries

Nominated for the 2015 Brussels Best Exporters award

ISO 9001:2008-certified

BELGIAN COSMETICS

45

the company was immediately in compliance as soon as the new regu-lation was implemented.

As a key intermediary between manu-facturers and the EU authorities, Obe-lis enables the whole industry to bene-fit from its knowledge and encourages companies to become more profes-sional. “We set up the European Cos-metics Responsible Persons Associa-tion and contribute to a host of seminars and shows to keep market parties informed. The company also participates in working groups set up by professional associations to pro-mote the sharing of best practices”.

EXPORT CHAMPION

The company’s home is the Belgian capital, close to the EU institutions. In spite of the complex administrative system, Belgium continues to have a good brand image abroad. It is seen as a centre of innovation.

Obelis employs around 30 employees at its Belgian offices, and has branch-es in the United States and Israel, as well as a large number of representa-tives around the world. Brussels In-vest & Export provides support for participation in non-European events. Obelis was nominated for the 2015 Brussels Best Exporters award in the Services category, which highlights and rewards the best-performing Brussels companies on international markets. 95% of the SME’s services are provided to foreign firms. “We work in more than 65 countries out-side the European Union, so our mar-ket is huge.” This sustained activity means that the company is growing all the time, at an annual rate of 10-15% since formation. “The family nature of our company means we can respond very fast,” says Sandra Ferretti.

www.obelis.net

We work in more than 65 countries

outside the European Union, so our market is

huge.


46

Pranarôm International is a scientific and medical aromatherapy laboratory formed in 1991 by Dominique Bau-doux, a passionate pharmacist and aromatherapist with a global reputa-tion. Ghislenghien was chosen as the place of business. This small town is the home of the Baudoux family, which has been heavily involved in the com-pany since the very beginning. In 2011 investment fund Vendis Capital took a stake in the company, which was sub-stantially restructured.

Three years later, Pranarôm acquired Herbalgem, a Vielsalm-based special-ist in gemmotherapy, a treatment that uses various tree and shrub buds. In January 2016 it acquired two new

companies, US firm Veriditas, which is also active in aromatherapy, and French company Biofloral, which manufactures artisanal plant-based organic products (Fleurs de Bach, Or-tie-Silice). These four companies have now joined forces in the Inula group. “Our ambition is to become the num-ber one producer of non-allopathic natural therapies, as opposed to the traditional way diseases are treated in Europe,” says Mireille Vanvolsem.

ESSENTIAL OILS AND BY-PRODUCTS

Pranarôm sells bottles of pure essen-tial oils as well as finished products based on essential oil to pharmacies and organic shops. “Our essential oils are distilled where the aromatic plant

is harvested, which is all over the world,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. They are then sent in barrels to Ghislen-ghien, where they are bottled or trans-formed into finished products (nasal sprays, throat pastels, balms, syrups). “We are responsible for some of the production ourselves, but we do out-source in the case of complicated for-mulas that require special knowhow or equipment. We have many pre-ferred suppliers in Belgium and France.”

Pranarôm recently invested in its facil-ities, modernising and adding an extra 2500m² to its storage and shipping area. “The shipments are packed and then dispatched by haulage contractor

to the points of sale. It became vital for us to optimise our space to support our growth.” A third bottling line came on stream in August 2016. “We are also investing in people by hiring per-manent employees,” adds Mireille Vanvolsem.

FOCUSED ON EXPORTS

“In 2015 exports accounted for 83% of turnover,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. Pranarôm sells its products through its own sales force in those countries where it has subsidiaries (France, Spain, Italy and Portugal). It is also a big exporter to Asia, Latin America and Canada, working with carefully selected distributors that fit in with its brand image.

INTERVIEW WITH

Mireille Vanvolsem, marketing director

We spend just as much on training as we do on marketing.

COMPANY

Pranarôm

REGION

Wallonia

Formation: 1991

Part of the Belgian Inula group

Sites in Belgium: Ghislenghien (head office), Vielsalm

Subsidiaries: France, Spain, Italy, Portugal

85 employees in Belgium

Turnover in 2015: EUR 43.5 (Inula group: EUR 53 million)

Growth in 2015: 13% (Inula group: 11%)

Winner of the 2010 Walloon Export Prize

BELGIAN COSMETICS

47

“We have had a lot of support from AWEX,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. It has subsidised R&D projects as well as the opening of an office in Latin Amer-ica. It also helped co-finance the sala-ry of one of our employees tasked with exploring the Chinese market. Prana-rôm maintains regular contacts with DETIC too, particularly when develop-ing cosmetic products.

PRESALE TRAINING AND INFORMATION

“Our great strength is our willingness to first sell the aromatherapy concept, then our products. We feel it is vital to inform consumers about essential oils to ensure they use them wisely.” With that in mind, Pranarôm holds numer-ous training events in the form of lec-tures, workshops, webinars and so on. “When we open a subsidiary we do not only hire sales staff, we also recruit trainers. We spend just as much on training as we do on marketing,” says Mireille Vanvolsem.

Pranarôm’s second competitive ad-vantage is its very high quality stand-ards. Customers can go online and check the chromatography of the product by entering the lot number. The development of any new product is personally supervised by the presi-dent (Dominique Baudoux) and in-cludes a great many laboratory effica-cy tests. “At Pranarôm we naturally ensure we protect the health of con-sumers, but we also protect planet and people as a whole through part-nerships with essential oil producers.”

WELL-FILLED CATALOGUE

Mireille Vanvolsem names the par-ticularly large range of products as the

third strength. “Pranarôm is the only brand that markets 250-300 unique references of essential and vegetable oils. In general, if an oil is not in our catalogue it does not exist.” While competitors often confine themselves to the big-sellers, Pranarôm takes its role as aromatherapist very seriously. “One of Pranarôm’s fundamental prin-ciples is that it must constantly devel-op its core business, bottled essential oils, in order for the foundations to remain stable.” We recently added new references to the list: yuzu, rose-wood leaf and fine lavender AOP. Sev-

eral more are lined up for release through to the end of 2017.

Pranarôm is very optimistic about its future. “We have a lot of ideas and pro-jects in the pipeline. There are a lot of opportunities in aromatherapy,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. In the short term, two new companies will be integrated into the group. The Veriditas brand will then be given an image makeover be-fore Pranarôm enters the promising US market.

www.pranarom.com

At Pranarôm we naturally ensure we protect the health of

consumers, but we also protect planet and people as a whole

through partnerships with essential oil producers.


48

VALUE-BASED MANAGEMENT APPROACH

World Natural Care was formed by a civil engineer (Stan Idelsen) and a fi-nancial consultant (Alain Vertraeten), both sharing a passion for remedies handed-down by grandmothers. Based in Evere, this market-oriented R&D start-up company draws more inspiration from sales than from technology. “It is not our scientists who determine which products we develop but our customers”, says Stan Idelsen.

World Natural Care follows the cus-tomer value-based management ap-proach, which has been thoroughly tried and tested in Scandinavian com-panies like Ericsson, Tetra Pak and Volvo Trucks. While the traditional model advocates to take the fast track to market, World Natural Care chose to wait for almost ten years to offer its

first products for sale and this, at the beginning of 2016. “We waited for the right time to ensure that our margins would be big enough in order to fi-nance our R&D and limit the necessity to borrow capital (stocks, customer credit).”

BETWEEN TRADITION AND MODERNITY

“Our mission is to replace petrole-um-based ingredients and synthetic substances that are a danger to hu-man health as currently used by pro-ducers of finished cosmetics and pharmaceuticals”, says Stan Idelsen. World Natural Care now uses extracts from almost 1200 plants, offering al-ternative natural solutions from green chemistry, which enables its custom-ers to reduce their carbon footprint and grow their profits. Consumers are actually ready to pay up to 40% more for a certified organic product.

INTERVIEW WITH

Stan Idelsen, Co-Founder

COMPANY

World Natural Care

REGION

Brussels

Creation: 2006

Place: Evere, Brussels

15 employees

Export share: 100%

WNC World Natural CareGreen Solutions for Cosmetics & Pharmacy

It is not our scientists who

determine which products we

develop but our customers.

BELGIAN COSMETICS

49

The origin of the formulas developed by World Natural Care creates a para-dox. On the one hand, its green ingre-dients are inspired by traditional natu-ral remedies from traditional pharmacopoeias. Today, they work with two communities: the Berbers and the Armenians. In exchange for their se-crets, World Natural Care finances projects to conserve these people’s cultures. On the other hand, World Natural Care is a high-tech company that masters state-of-the-art techno-logical processes. It works with highly qualified scientists who are able to create added value independently. The company recently opened a new GMP (good manufacturing practice) instal-lation and its laboratories are well on the way to earning GLP (good labora-tory practice) certification. A few mil-lions have been invested to date.

PERSONALISED SOLUTIONS

World Natural Care invents, manufac-tures and sells customised solutions that respond to the problems experi-enced by its customers. “Our products are functional rather than standard-ized off-the-shelf ingredients.”

“For example, we have been ap-proached by a major German distribu-tor who wanted to make the switch from an industrial pharmacy to a green pharmacy. We have been work-ing together intensively over the past few months”, says Stan Idelsen. World Natural Care has also developed a revolutionary pigment technology, based on a request from a US custom-er who wanted to have its organic products certified. Once it was certain that selling by the kilo would be suffi-cient to finance the R&D, the company bought the machines needed to start production.

World Natural Care offers cosmetics and pharmaceutical producers alter-natives that resolve the problems they encounter with their usual ingredients. For instance, it developed its own veg-etable lanoline to replace traditional animal lanoline, which contains pesti-cides. Vasegreen® is a substitute for Vaseline, which is made from petrole-um and stuffes the pores. It has devel-

oped a vegetable talc to replace tradi-tional talc, which contains asbestos and aluminium and tends to dry out the skin. It also works with cactus, a very attractive plant in terms of envi-ronment, and a lot of other substitutes. Throughout the production chain, raw materials and ingredients are subject-ed to stringent toxicity testing to en-sure total safety for both manufactur-ers and consumers.

WORLD DOMINATION FROM BRUSSELS

Today, World Natural Care exports everything it produces. “Being located in Belgium, a commercial hub, is a big advantage”, says Stan Idelsen. Prod-ucts only went on sale a few months ago, but, thanks to the work of around ten distributors, they are already used in Europe (especially Scandinavia), the United States, Latin America, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Australia and New Zealand.

“It is easy to attract the best brains from around the world to Brussels. We

have 15 employees at World Natural Care and 11 different nationalities.” The company works with several uni-versity laboratories that are located close to the Belgian capital. Most of its natural ingredients suppliers are Eu-ropean, some of them Belgian green-house farmers.

Among its development projects, World Natural Care has the ambition to attract US customers and plans to open several production units on the other side of the pond.

Stan Idelsen sees a huge value-crea-tion potential in cosmetics through the replacement of synthetic chemicals. “Sales of green cosmetic products are growing by 20% year after year in OECD countries”, he says. “And the discoveries in this industry can be ap-plied to other industries, such as agri-culture. With its flourishing chemical and pharmaceutical industries, Bel-gium is certainly in a great position to set the example when it comes to re-placing petroleum.”

www.wncare.com

Sales of green cosmetic products are growing by 20% year after year in

OECD countries.

DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES


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A CORPS PARFAIT 6010 CHATELET Wallonia - • •

ACOS-VISODERM 6530 THUIN Wallonia www.acos-laboratoire.com • • •

AGAVA 7780 COMINES Wallonia www.agava.be • • •

AGC INNOVATION 7061 THIEUSIES Wallonia www.bechocolate.be • •

AIT/IVT 8640 VLETEREN Flanders www.trappist.com • •

ALANINE 7011 GHLIN Wallonia www.alanine.be •

ALONGCIL 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.alongcil.com •

AMWAY BELGIUM 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.amway.be • • •

ANGE NATURE 5310 EGHEZEE Wallonia www.angenature.be • • •

ANHAIRCO N.V. 2630 AARTSELAAR Flanders www.anhairco.be •

ANHUA ZHOULI CO 1090 BRUSSELS Brussels www.gefyragroup.com • • •

ASINERIE DU PAYS DES COLLINES 7911 FRASNES-LEZ-BUISSENAL Wallonia www.asineriedupaysdescollines.be • •

ASTRA NAILS 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.astranails.be •

ATELIER M. MOUREAU S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.moureau.be •

ATELIERS JEAN REGNIERS AJR 6543 BIENNE-LEZ-HAPPART Wallonia www.ajregniers.be •

AURIGA INTERNATIONAL 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.auriga-int.com •

AZOR 1435 MONT-SAINT-GUIBERT Wallonia www.azor.be • •

AZURTIS 1380 LASNE Wallonia www.azurtis.com • • •

BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL S.P.R.L. 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels - • •

BEE NATURE 1300 WAVRE Wallonia www.beenature.be • •

BEIERSDORF S.A./N.V. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.beiersdorf.com • •

BENECHIM 7860 LESSINES Wallonia www.benechim.com •

BEPHARBEL MANUFACTURING 6180 COURCELLES Wallonia www.bepharbel.com • •

BH COMPANY 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.jybcosmetics.com • •

BIOCODEX BENELUX S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.biocodex.be •

BIOSCIENCES-SHIFT 7382 AUDREGNIES Wallonia - • •

This directory is not exhaustive.

For more information please contact Flanders Investment & Trade (FIT), Brussels Invest & Export, Wallonia Export - Investment Agency (AWEX) or the Belgian federations (see Chapter 1, Section 3).

BELGIAN COSMETICS

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BIO-TECH 5032 MAZY Wallonia www.biotechparfum.com • •

BIOVIE DIRECT 6110 MONTIGNY-LE-TILLEUL Wallonia www.bioneuf.be •

BNOVA - B-CAP 5100 WIERDE Wallonia www.b-cap.eu • •

BOURJOIS S.A. 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels www.bourjois.com • • • •

BRENNTAG 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.brenntag.be • •

BVLGARI S.A. 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.bulgari.com •

CALYPSO MARKETING 1310 LA HULPE Wallonia - • •

CARIN HAIRCOSMETICS N.V. 8430 MIDDELKERKE Flanders www.carin.be •

CEREPHARMA 7822 GHISLENGHIEN Wallonia www.cerepharma.com • •

CHANEL S.A. 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels www.chanel.com • • •

CHEMCOM 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.chemcom.be •

CID LINES N.V. 8900 IEPER Flanders www.cidlines.com •

CÎME 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.cime-skincare.com • •

CLARINS BENELUX 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.clarins.com • • • •

CODIBEL 7180 SENEFFE Wallonia www.codibel.be • • •

COLGATE-PALMOLIVE BELGIUM S.A. 1160 BRUSSELS Brussels www.colgate.com • •

CONPALUX 6880 BERTRIX Wallonia www.conpalux.be • • •

COPAIBA 4845 SART-LEZ-SPA Wallonia www.copaiba.be • • •

COSMEBEL 1190 BRUSSELS Brussels www.cosmebel.com • •

COSMETOLOGIE SPINEE 5575 RIENNE Wallonia www.spinee.be • • •

COSMIC N.V. 2220 HEIST-OP-DEN-BERG Flanders www.cosmic.be • • •

COTY BENELUX N.V. 1731 ZELLIK-ASSE Flanders www.lancaster-beauty.com • • • •

CURADOR 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.curador.net •

DC FRANCINE ROTSAERT 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.dcosmetiques.eu •

DEXSIL LABS 6180 COURCELLES Wallonia www.dexsil.be •

DISTRIMARKS 5377 BAILLONVILLE Wallonia www.distrimarks.com • • •

DOMINIQUE GILLIS - ARGAN EXPORT COMPANY AEC 1367 RAMILLIES-OFFUS Wallonia www.argan-export.com •

ECOVER BELGIUM N.V. 2390 MALLE Flanders be.ecover.com • •

ELITE COIFF 6224 WANFERCEE-BAULET Wallonia www.elitecoiff.be •

ESSENSYS COSMETICS DUTILLEUX DANIELE 6560 HANTES-WIHERIES Wallonia www.essensys-cosmetics.com •

ESTEE LAUDER 1831 DIEGEM Flanders www.esteelauder.be • • • •

EURODIST 1402 THINES Wallonia www.eurodist.be •

EUROLABOR 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.eurolabor.be •

EUROPHARMA GROUP 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.europharmagroup.com • •

EXPANSCIENCE LABORATOIRES BELGIUM 1731 ZELLIK Flanders www.expanscience.com/en • •


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FARDEL COSMETICS 1348 LOUVAIN-LA-NEUVE Brussels www.fardel.com • •

FASTECH - FASTSPORTS 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.fastsports.be •

FAZO COSMETIC 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels www.fazocosmetic.com •

FILORGA MANUFACTURING 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels - •

G&M AND PARTNERS 4500 HUY Wallonia www.mariepapote.be •

GEODE CHEMICALS AND LABORATORIES 4540 AMAY Wallonia www.geodechemicals.be •

GLOBAL BEAUTY 4690 ROCLENGE-SUR-GEER Wallonia - •

GRIJSPEERDT B.V.B.A. 8800 ROESELARE Flanders www.grijspeerdt.be •

GSK BIOLOGICALS S..A./N.V. 1330 RIXENSART Wallonia www.gsk.com • •

GUERLAIN BENELUX S.A. 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels - • • • •

HENKEL BELGIUM S.A./N.V. 1080 BRUSSELS Brussels www.henkel.be • •

HERBALGEM 6690 VIELSAM Wallonia www.herbalgem.com •

HUCKERT'S INTERNATIONAL S.P.R.L. 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.huckerts.net •

HUTRADE 1330 RIXENSART Wallonia www.hutrade.com • •

JBH INTERNATIONAL 1140 BRUSSELS Brussels www.jbh.be • •

JOHNSON & JOHNSON CONSUMER N.V. 2340 BEERSE Flanders www.jnjconsumer.be • •

JYB COSMETICS 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.jybcosmetics.com •

KAO BELGIUM N.V. 2270 HERENTHOUT Flanders - •

KEBAO 4500 BEN-AHIN Wallonia www.kebao.be • • •

KENOMAR 4040 HERSTAL Wallonia - •

LABORATOIRES DE BIOLOGIE VEGETALE YVES ROCHER 7540 KAIN Wallonia www.yves-rocher.be • • • •

LABORATOIRES EDMOND FROMONT 1080 BRUSSELS Brussels - •

LABORATOIRES FENIOUX BENELUX 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.laboratoiresfenioux.be •

LABORATOIRES LX SPRL 7060 SOIGNIES Wallonia - • • •

LANAFORM LANA ALLPEAK 4141 LOUVEIGNE Wallonia www.lanaform.com • •

LANOLINES STELLA 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.lanolin-stella.com •

LES LABORATOIRES REPOUSS 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels - •

LES QUATRE SAISONS 4821 ANDRIMONT Wallonia - •

LIBINVEST 7130 BINCHE Wallonia www.libinvest.com •

LONZA VERVIERS 4800 PETIT-RECHAIN Wallonia www.lonza.com •

L'OREAL BELGILUX 1082 BRUSSELS Brussels www.loreal.com • • • •

L'OREAL LIBRAMONT 6800 RECOGNE Wallonia www.loreal.com • • • •

LOUISE PERFUMES & COSMETICS 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.louise-parfums.com • •

M. MOUREAU S.A. 1040 BRUSSELS Brussels - • • •

MARIE-FRANCE PIERRE 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.mariefrancepierre.net • •

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MC BRIDE 7730 ESTAIMPUIS Wallonia www.mcbride.co.uk • •

MÉANT VÉRONIQUE – NATURA VÉRO 4607 BERNEAU Wallonia www.naturavero.be • •

MICROBELCAPS 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.microbelcaps.be •

MILEVA - LUMIBEAUTY 4020 JUPILLE-SUR-MEUSE Wallonia www.lumibeauty.com • •

MYLENE N.V. 2220 HEIST-OP-DEN-BERG Flanders www.mylene.be • • • •

NADINE SALEMBIER DIFFUSION 7780 COMINES Wallonia www.nadine-salembier.com •

NAILISA 4100 SERAING Wallonia www.nailisa.com •

NASOHA 1367 AUTRE-EGLISE Wallonia www.nasoha.be • •

NATUR’INOV 6120 JAMIOULX Wallonia - • •

NATURANE L’ANERIE D’ARDENNE 6600 BASTOGNE Wallonia www.naturanecosmetics.com • •

NUSKIN BELGIUM N.V. 1930 ZAVENTEM Flanders www.nuskin.com • • • •

NUTAMED 4400 FLEMALLE Wallonia www.nutamed.com •

NUTRIPHARM 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.nutripharm.be •

NUXE BELGIUM S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels be.nuxe.com • • •

OBELIS 1030 BRUSSELS Brussels www.obelis.net • • • •

ONE LIFE 1348 LOUVAIN-LA-NEUVE Wallonia www.onelife-biofilmfree.com •

OSIMEX 1420 BRAINE-L’ALLEUD Wallonia - •

PANNOC CHEMIE N.V. 2250 OLEN Flanders www.pannoc.be • • •

PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR S.A.B. 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.dior.com

PARFUMS GUY DELFORGE 5000 NAMUR -CITADELLE Wallonia www.delforge.com •

PASSIONS D’O SAVONNERIE ARTISANALE 5660 MARIEMBOURG Wallonia www.passionsdo.be • • •

PCS INNOTEC INTERNATIONAL N.V. 2480 DESSEL Flanders www.innotec-world.com •

PHYTESIA 4557 TINLOT Wallonia www.phytesia.com •

PIERRE FABRE BENELUX 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.pierre-fabre.be • • • •

PLAISIRS DU BAIN 7080 EUGIES Wallonia www.plaisirsdubain.be • •

PRANAROM INTERNATIONAL S.A. 7822 GHISLENGHIEN Wallonia www.pranarom.com • • •

PROCTER & GAMBLE 1853 STROMBEEK-BEVER Flanders www.pg.com • • •

PROFESSIONAILS N.V. 2900 SCHOTEN Flanders www.professionails.com • •

PRO-VERA 1420 BRAINE-L’ALLEUD Wallonia www.provera.biz •

PUIG BELUX S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.puig.com • • • •

RECKITT BENCKISER (BELGIUM) 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.rb.com • •

SARBEC BELUX S.A. 7730 ESTAIMPUIS Wallonia www.sarbec.com • • • •

SATIVALL 6530 THUIN Wallonia www.sativall.com • •

SAVONNERIES BRUXELLOISES 1020 BRUSSELS Brussels www.savonneries.be •

SCHNEIDER TANJA 4760 BULLANGE Wallonia www.stutenmilch.be • •


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SEADERM INTERNATIONAL 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.seaderm.com • •

SECONDE NATURE 1340 OTTIGNIES Wallonia www.seconde-nature.eu •

SEMSICO 1020 BRUSSELS Brussels www.semsico.com •

SHISEIDO DEUTSCHLAND G.M.B.H. 1180 BRUSSELS Brussels www.shiseido.be • • • •

SILVER GENERATION 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.smartlifetime.com • •

SOL’ESTA 5170 BOIS-DE-VILLERS Wallonia - •

SOPRODAL N.V. 3583 PAAL Flanders www.soprodal.com • •

SRS INTERNATIONAL 1040 BRUSSELS Brussels www.srs-solution.com •

SYGIBEL 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.delbove-cosmetics.com • •

TARADON LABORATORY 1480 TUBIZE Wallonia www.taradon-laboratory.com • • •

TEONIA 1200 BRUSSELS Brussels www.evocure.com •

UNILEVER S.A./N.V. 1190 BRUSSELS Brussels www.unilever.be • • •

VAN MELLO ETS 7860 LESSINES Wallonia www.vanmello.com •

VANDEPUTTE SAVONNERIE-ZEEPFABRIEK S.A. 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.vandeputte.com •

VEMEDIA CONSUMER HEALTH 9050 GENT Flanders www.vemedia.com • •

WARENDORFER PFERDE BALSAM GROUP 4630 SOUMAGNE Wallonia www.wpbgroup.eu • • •

WORLD NATURAL CARE 1140 BRUSSELS Brussels www.wncare.com • •

YCHANDO - DOTRIMONT CHANTAL 4550 NANDRIN Wallonia www.ychando.be • • •

BELGIAN COSMETICS

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FIGURES & CHARTS

FIGURE 1 MAIN COSMETICS MARKETS IN EUR BILLIONS (2015) 8

FIGURE 2 BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY PRODUCT CATEGORY IN EUROPE AND BELGIUM (2015) 9

FIGURE 3 BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY DISTRIBUTION CHANNEL IN BELGIUM, IN EUR THOUSANDS (2014) 10

FIGURE 4 BELGIAN COSMETICS EXPORTS FROM 2010 TO 2015, IN EUR BILLIONS 13

FIGURE 5 COSMETICS EXPORTS BY COUNTRY IN 2015 13

FIGURE 6BREAKDOWN OF BELGIAN EXPORTS PER CONTINENT IN 2010 AND 2015 13

FIGURE 7TOP 10 BELGIAN CUSTOMERS, IN EUR MILLIONS (2010, 2015) 14

FIGURE 8BREAKDOWN OF EXPORTS BY PRODUCT CATEGORY (2015) 14

THANK YOU

THANK YOU

60

The Belgian Foreign Trade Agency wishes to thank the following contributors to this publication:

FPS Foreign Affairs

Flanders Investment & Trade

Wallonia Export - Investment Agency

Brussels Invest & Export

DETIC

essenscia

Cosmetics Europe

as well as the companies which have kindly agreed to give a testimonial.

Belgian Foreign Trade AgencyRue Montoyer 31000 BrusselsBelgiumT +32 2 206 35 [email protected] www.abh-ace.be

FPS Foreign Affairs, Foreign Trade and Development CooperationRue des Petits Carmes 151000 BrusselsBelgium T +32 2 501 81 11 diplomatie.belgium.be

Flanders Investment & TradeBoulevard du Roi Albert II 371030 BrusselsBelgiumT +32 2 504 87 11www.flandersinvestmentandtrade.com

Wallonia Export - Investment AgencyPlace Sainctelette 21080 BrusselsBelgiumT +32 2 421 82 11www.awex.be

Brussels Invest & ExportAvenue Louise 500/41050 BrusselsBelgiumT +32 2 800 40 00 www.invest-export.irisnet.be

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