Entrenched in Sumatra’s misty green highlands, Berastagi is a small town, stunningly verdant and

cool compared to its bustling city cousin of Medan, 70km northward. Medan local Suwandi Chandra hits the road to explore this quaint agricultural

escape and its resilient people.

Words and photography by Suwandi Chandra

BERASTAGI

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The magnificent view of Mount Sinabung just spewing its volcanic ashes to the sky and directly to the storm cloud brewing above it to create the very complex view by mother nature.

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I’m lucky to be just an hour and a half away from Berastagi. In Medan we’re well accustomed to the hustle and bustle, equatorial heat and traffic that come with living in one of Indonesia’s ever-burgeoning capital cities. But just under 70km south of the city, Berastagi offers respite from all of that.

Berastagi sits high (at about 1,300m) between two of Sumatra’s most active volcanoes. Mount Sibayak (2,212m) commands its place on the skyline due north, while Mount Sinabung (2,460m) towers even higher due west. The fertile volcanic hills in between them sprawl with rich rainforests, picturesque green fields and of course the town itself, which enjoys a cool climate all year round thanks to its strategic location. It’s no wonder this hilly little town is a popular weekend getaway for my fellow Medan-ites.

Berastagi is more than just a small town, however. It’s actually the main town here – with a population of just fewer than 50,000 – and technically it’s a subdistrict of the greater Karo Regency, linking the Karo highlands to the coastal city of Medan. I’m compelled to call it a small town for its charmingly quaint surrounds. Up to the 1900s Berastagi was but a village. It rose to prominence as a town in the 1920s when Dutch colonialists, attracted by the lush environs and cool climate, built a boarding school here.

Before being settled by the Dutch, the village was known for its rice agriculture and trade, which is where the town gets its name; Berastagi in the local dialect means ‘rice store’. Today you’ll find more than rice being sold in the markets. Berastagi is famous for its vegetables, fruits and flowers, which flourish in the cooler climate, and its very fertile soil.

One weekend I took the drive down from Medan, passing several villages and dense national forests along narrow roads coiling tightly upslope. After a good hour of driving I switched off my car’s aircon and cracked the window – letting in great wafts of revitalising, crisp, cool mountain-fresh air. About ten more minutes up the road I pulled in at my first stop: a steamed and barbecued sweetcorn roadside stall. I ordered one of each, along with a hot sweet tea to quench my thirst. The location of the roadside stall is a bit precarious – at the edge of the (very) narrow cliff – but the construction looks sturdy, and at this altitude the sweeping panoramic views are completely worth it. Lush green valleys and dense forests are all around, and on a clear day you can see the expanse of forest swaddling the defiant concrete of Medan far in the distance. I finish my sweet, juicy corn and continue on my way.

I’d arranged accommodation at Nachelle Homestay, right beside the town’s main road and just a ten-minute walk from Berastagi city centre. It is a shophouse-style accommodation, run by a lovely couple, Mery and Abdy. The rooms and amenities

The view of the lush green valley and dense national forest along the route to Berastagi.

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are modest, but it’s clean and comfortable with all the necessities provided, including hot water.

Abdy, my host-cum-guide here in Berastagi, is a local man who speaks fluent English, French and Indonesian as well as the local Karo dialect. He took me up to the rooftop to show me the view: quite stunning. Mount Sinabung stood tall and proud, and all of a sudden it spat a plume of volcanic ash upward into the air. I was concerned at first, but Abdy assured me it was not a major eruption. Living next to a highly active volcano comes with a different set of challenges. He calmly gave me a mask to wear and suggested that we explore outside the city while waiting for the ash to settle. He took me to see the Sipiso-piso waterfalls, about 45 minutes from the homestay. Sipiso-piso literally means ‘knives’, the falls named for the jagged cliff walls from which they drop 120m to the narrow gorge below. It’s an absorbing sight. As a bonus, just opposite the falls you can see the northernmost tip of Indonesia’s biggest lake, Lake Toba.

On the way back into town, we stopped by two traditional villages – Dokan and Lingga – both of which still maintain the old Batak Karo way of life. One of the most distinctive aspects of their culture is their traditional Batak Karo architecture, which produces characterful houses of a unique square shape with angular facets and defining horned roofs. The water-buffalo horns on the roof are believed to protect the house’s occupants from danger and to ward off bad spirits. The beautiful painted patterns too have their own individual significance. The Karo people are natural craftsmen and artists. How could they not be inspired by the magnificent nature that they call their home? Abdy tells me one house typically fits eight families with only separators between each family inside the house.

We headed back to the homestay and called it a day. Back in town the ash had settled and the vibrant greenery surrounding Berastagi was now covered in a fine grey. August 29, 2010, marked the last major eruption of Mount Sinabung following 400 years of dormancy, forcing 30,000 people to be

The locals’ houses and vegetable fields located at the foot of Mount Sinabung – an active volcano.

The easy-to-moderate hiking trail to the other active volcano, Mount Sibayak.

2010 2013On August 29, 2010, the volcano experienced a minor eruption after being inactive for over four centuries.

On September 15, 2013, the volcano erupted again. More than 3,700 people were evacuated.

On February 1, 2014, a further eruption occurred that sent clouds of hot ash 2km into the air.

Recent Mount Sinabung Eruptions

2014

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evacuated. It has been quietly rumbling with over 25 smaller intermittent eruptions since then. I was in awe to see the people of Berastagi back in their town resuming their lives even as the mighty mountain continues to grumble.

The next day Mother Nature was kinder to us. Abdy told me the winds had changed direction and were now blowing ash away from the town. Mery prepared a traditional dish as a special treat to start the day. Arsik is a traditional Batak dish of carp cooked with a rare spice called andaliman, which is related to Sichuan pepper. The colour of the carp was predominantly yellow because of the turmeric and the flavourful flesh was beautifully moist, soft and tender. She served it with rice, the perfect side dish as the fish had a wonderful curry-like (but more pungent) aroma.

Abdy had a surprise for me too. Later that day we drove up to Mount Sinabung and trekked up to a safe spot to enjoy the sunset. We were joined by many locals who also made the trek to appreciate this gift of nature in their back yard, despite the disconcerting mood the mountain had been in not more than 24 hours earlier. How the recent eruptions have affected the fair people of Berastagi is sad and unfortunate, yet at the same time the way these people have shown resilience and carried on with their lives is as inspiring as the majestic mountains themselves.

The way these people have shown resilience and carried on with their lives is as inspiring as the majestic mountains themselves.

This temple is the largest Buddhist pagoda in Indonesia. Though the road to reach it is a little rough and tumble, it’s well worth the journey. The temple looks majestic as the brilliant gold contrasts with the surrounding blue skies and green jungles. It was built as a smaller replica of the Shwedagon Pagoda Temple in Yangon, Myanmar. Everyone is welcome to explore, but be sure to keep quiet and show respect as there are people who are there to pray and meditate. www.tamanalamlumbini.org

Kuil ini merupakan kuil Buddha terbesar di Indonesia. Walaupun jalan menuju tempat ini agak sulit dan berat, Taman Alam Lumbini tetap layak untuk dikunjungi. Kuil tersebut tampil megah dengan warna emas yang kontras dengan warna biru langit dan hijau hutan di sekitarnya. Tempat ini dibangun mirip dengan—namun lebih kecil dari —kuil Pagoda Shwedagon di Yangon, Myanmar. Siapa pun dapat mengunjungi kuil ini, namun Anda harus menjaga ketenangan dan menghormati mereka yang tengah beribadah dan bermeditasi.

5 Senses – SightA SLICE OF MYANMAR

The unique shape of the Batak Karo house roof with its colourful ornaments and the water-buffalo horns looking down at the top of it, which locals believe can protect the house’s occupants.

The carved gecko ornaments surrounding the outer walls of the house are believed to protect the house from evil spirits.

A colourful painted wood-carved ornament on the wall of the house.

One of the traditional Batak Karo houses located at Dokan Batak village.

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Sipiso-piso Waterfalls is one of the many highlights while visiting the Karo highlands around Berastagi. You can hike down to the base to feel the fresh, cold water from the falls.

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Even if you don’t get to see the sunrise from the top of Mount Sibayak, you can head to one of the hot springs to unwind and relax your muscles after a long day of trekking and exploring. The natural hot springs are particularly pleasant in the cool mountain air. Locals bathe regularly to heal or relieve many ailments such as high blood pressure, anaemia, arthritis and rheumatism. Be sure to grab a spot with views across the Mount Sibayak valley for ultimate nature immersion and relaxation.

Walau tidak sempat melihat matahari terbit dari puncak Gunung Sibayak, Anda dapat menuju salah satu sumber air panas untuk bersantai setelah seharian bertualang. Penduduk setempat berendam di sini secara rutin untuk menyembuhkan atau meringankan berbagai penyakit seperti tekanan darah tinggi, anemia, nyeri sendi, dan rematik. Pastikan Anda mengambil tempat yang menghadap lembah Gunung Sibayak agar Anda dapat menikmati pemandangan alam sambil santai berendam.

5 Senses – Touch MOUNT SIBAYAK HOT SPRING

Hot Spring 101

If you're going to a wild hot spring, leave the soap at home. It isn’t needed (since there’s flowing, non-recycling water) and simply acts as a pollutant.

Tak perlu membawa sabun mandi ke sumber air panas karena justru akan menjadi polusi pada sumber air panas tersebut.

A pair of flip-flops is handy for both commercial springs and in the wilds, owing to slick surfaces and uneven footing.

Gunakan sandal untuk ke pemandian air panas dan di alam bebas, karena permukaan tanah yang licin dan tak rata.

If you use your own towel, you'll be well advised to rinse it out soon after use as the mineral content and, frequently, acidity of spring water can be damaging to the towel.

Jika menggunakan handuk sendiri, langsung cuci handuk Anda setelah digunakan karena kandungan mineral dan asam dari air panas alam bisa merusak serat handuk.

Know the maximum temperature of the hot spring. Temperatures as high as 70ºC are common in hot springs. Be conservative unless you know the spring well.

Cek suhu air panas sebelum Anda berendam. Suhunya kadang bisa mencapai 70ºC. Berhati-hatilah kecuali Anda sudah mengenal baik sumber air panas tersebut.

Many wild springs are gathering places for wildlife. Know what kind of animals might frequent the area, and be prepared for wildlife encounters.

Kebanyakan sumber air panas adalah tempat berkumpul binatang. Ada baiknya mengetahui hewan apa yang sering muncul agar tidak kaget jika bertemu salah satunya.

Spring water can be damaging to a camera if a non-waterproof camera is immersed or if water is allowed to dry on the lens as mineral deposits are extremely difficult to remove.

Air panas alam bisa merusak kamera bila terendam air dan jika dibiarkan mengering di lensa, kandungan mineralnya akan sulit dibersihkan.

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Berastagi terletak di dataran tinggi (sekitar 1.300 meter), di antara 2 gunung berapi teraktif di Sumatera. Gunung Sibayak (2.212 meter) bertakhta di langit utara, sementara Gunung Sinabung (2.460 meter) menjulang tinggi di arah barat. Bukit-bukit vulkanik subur di antara kedua gunung tersebut membentang dengan hutan hujannya, pemandangan ladang hijau yang indah, serta Kota Berastagi sendiri yang memiliki kelebihan berupa iklim sejuk sepanjang tahun berkat lokasi strategisnya. Tak heran, kota kecil berbukit ini menjadi tujuan berlibur akhir pekan yang populer di antara kawan-kawan saya sesama orang Medan.

Sesungguhnya, Berastagi bukan sekadar kota kecil. Berastagi justru merupakan kota utama dengan populasi kurang dari 50.000 jiwa dan secara teknis

merupakan salah satu kecamatan dari Kabupaten Karo, menghubungkan dataran tinggi Karo ke kota pesisir Medan. Saya terpaksa menyebutnya kota kecil hanya karena area seputar kota ini masih terbilang kuno. Hingga tahun 1900-an, Berastagi tak lebih dari sebuah desa. Namun, daerah ini dikenal sebagai kota di tahun 1920 ketika kolonial Belanda tertarik pada lingkungan yang subur dan iklimnya yang sejuk, lalu membangun sebuah sekolah berasrama di sini.

Sebelum diduduki oleh kolonial Belanda, Berastagi dikenal sebagai pusat pertanian padi dan perdagangan beras. Itulah asal-usul nama kota ini; Berastagi dalam dialek lokal berarti ‘gudang beras’. Namun, kini tak hanya beras yang akan Anda temui di pasar. Berastagi juga terkenal

Saya beruntung tinggal hanya satu setengah jam jauhnya dari Berastagi. Di Medan, kami sudah terbiasa dengan hiruk-pikuk, cuaca khatulistiwa, dan lalu lintas padat yang merupakan konsekuensi tinggal di salah satu kota besar di Indonesia. Namun, tak sampai 70 km di selatan kota Medan, Berastagi menyodorkan jeda sejenak dari semua itu.

Hike up to the Gundaling Hills to see panoramic views of Berastagi. From here you can walk down to the fields to connect with local farmers and get a sense of their daily lives. About 3km from the heart of Berastagi the hills are 1,575m above sea level, and you can see Sinabung and Sibayak. There are even beautiful gardens to enjoy, making this a perfect spot for a family picnic. If you don’t feel up for a hike, or just want to enjoy the ride, hire a local sado (two-wheeled horse-drawn carriage) to take you.

5 Senses – SightGUNDALING HILLS

A local farmer picking ripe tomatoes and vegetables.

The cold climate has also made Berastagi a perfect place for flower farms such as this one, where you can visit and buy flowers.

Anda bisa mendaki Bukit Gundaling untuk menikmati pemandangan Berastagi. Dari sini, berjalan-jalanlah ke ladang untuk merasakan kehidupan petani sehari-harinya. Sekitar 3 km dari jantung Kota Berastagi, terdapat perbukitan setinggi 1.575 meter dari atas permukaan laut di mana Anda dapat melihat Sinabung dan Sibayak. Terdapat pula taman-taman indah yang cocok untuk piknik keluarga. Jika Anda tak begitu suka mendaki, atau sekadar ingin menikmati perjalanan, Anda dapat menyewa sado (kereta kuda beroda dua).

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kemudian mendadak sontak, meludahkan segumpal abu vulkanik ke udara. Saya cemas pada mulanya, namun Abdy meyakinkan saya, itu bukan erupsi besar. Hidup berdampingan dengan gunung api yang sangat aktif mengandung konsekuensi tantangan yang berbeda. Dengan tenang, dia mengangsurkan masker kepada saya untuk dipakai kemudian menyarankan agar kami menjelajah bagian luar kota dahulu selama menunggu abu reda.

Dia mengantarkan saya untuk melihat Air Terjun Sipiso-piso, sekitar 45 menit dari penginapan. Secara harfiah, nama Sipiso-piso bermakna ‘pisau’ dan berasal dari dinding tebing bergerigi, tempat air jatuh dari ketinggian 120 meter menuju sebuah jurang sempit di bawahnya. Sebuah pemandangan yang mengagumkan. Ditambah lagi, di arah yang berlawanan dengan air terjun, Anda dapat melihat ujung utara danau terbesar Indonesia, Danau Toba.

Dalam perjalanan kembali ke kota, kami mampir ke dua desa tradisional, Dokan dan Lingga, yang masih mempertahankan adat Batak Karo tua. Salah satu aspek budaya yang paling khas adalah arsitektur Batak Karo tradisional dengan rumah-rumah

Hidup berdampingan dengan gunung api yang sangat aktif mengandung konsekuensi tantangan yang berbeda.

jalan ini sedikit berbahaya—berada persis di pinggir jalan yang (sangat) sempit. Tetapi konstruksi warung ini tampak kokoh, dan pemandangan pada ketinggian ini benar-benar memesona. Lembah hijau nan subur serta hutan lebat membentang di sekitarnya. Saat cuaca cerah, Anda dapat melihat hamparan hutan membebat pemandangan hutan beton di Kota Medan dari kejauhan. Saya pun menghabiskan pesanan jagung saya yang manis dan empuk sebelum kemudian melanjutkan perjalanan.

Saya sudah memesan penginapan di Nachelle Homestay, tepat di samping jalan utama kota dan hanya berjarak 10 menit jalan kaki dari jantung Kota Berastagi. Penginapan ini bergaya rumah toko, dikelola pasangan yang ramah, Mery dan Abdy. Kamar dan fasilitasnya sederhana, namun bersih dan nyaman karena semua kebutuhan tersedia lengkap, termasuk air panas.

Abdy, tuan rumah sekaligus pemandu saya di Berastagi ini adalah penduduk setempat yang fasih berbahasa Inggris, Perancis, dan Indonesia, termasuk dialek Karo lokal. Dia mengajak saya naik ke atap untuk menunjukkan pemandangan yang memukau. Gunung Sinabung berdiri tegak nan angkuh,

Here you can sit and enjoy the breathtaking panoramic view of green rolling hills while eating warm, delicious sweet corn.

dengan sayur-mayur, buah-buahan, serta bunga yang tumbuh di tengah iklim sejuk dan tanah yang sangat subur.

Dalam perjalanan darat dari Medan di akhir pekan, saya melewati sejumlah desa serta hutan cagar alam, yang berada di sepanjang jalan sempit yang berkelok dan mendaki. Selang beberapa jam mengemudi, saya mematikan AC mobil lalu membuka jendela membiarkan embusan udara pegunungan yang segar memasuki mobil. Kira-kira setelah kembali berkendara selama 10 menit, saya berhenti di perhentian pertama: sebuah warung jagung bakar dan jagung rebus di pinggir jalan. Saya memesan kedua jenis jagung itu, bersama teh manis panas untuk melegakan dahaga. Lokasi warung pinggir

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berciri khusus dengan bentuk persegi yang unik, segi-segi bersudut dan atap bertanduk yang khas. Abdy memberi tahu saya, satu rumah biasanya dapat menampung delapan keluarga dan, di antara setiap keluarga dalam satu rumah tersebut, hanya diberi pemisah. Tanduk kerbau di atap diyakini dapat melindungi para penghuni rumah dari bahaya dan menangkal roh jahat. Pola-pola yang dilukis indah juga mengandung makna tersendiri. Suku Karo adalah para perajin dan seniman berbakat. Tak heran bila mereka lalu terinspirasi dengan keindahan alam yang mereka anggap sebagai rumah sendiri.

Kami pun menyudahi perjalanan hari itu lalu kembali ke penginapan. Saat kami kembali ke kota, abu telah mereda. Berastagi yang tadinya berwarna hijau kini tertutupi warna kelabu tipis. Tanggal 29 Agustus 2010 menandai letusan besar terakhir Gunung Sinabung setelah tidur selama 400 tahun. Letusan tersebut memaksa 30.000 orang mengungsi. Sejak letusan itu, sang gunung perlahan-lahan terus berdentum dengan lebih dari 25 letusan kecil berselang-seling. Saya kagum pada penduduk Berastagi yang pulang ke kota mereka untuk melanjutkan hidup, sekalipun gunung yang perkasa ini tak hentinya menggemuruh.

Keesokan harinya, alam lebih berbaik hati pada kami. Abdy memberi tahu saya, angin telah berubah arah sehingga mengembuskan abu jauh dari kota. Mery mempersiapkan masakan tradisional sebagai sajian istimewa untuk mengawali hari. Arsik adalah masakan tradisional Batak dari ikan mas yang dimasak dengan bumbu langka bernama andaliman, yang masih berkerabat dengan jenis lada sichuan. Warna kuning mendominasi karena pengaruh kunyit. Adapun daging ikan yang lezat terasa masih basah namun lembut dan empuk. Mery menyajikannya dengan nasi, pendamping yang sangat pas karena ikan arsik ini beraroma seperti kari (namun lebih pedas).

Abdy juga punya kejutan untuk saya. Menjelang sore, dia mengajak saya berkendara ke Gunung Sinabung lalu berjalan mendaki ke sebuah titik aman untuk menikmati indahnya matahari terbenam. Kami bergabung dengan penduduk setempat yang juga menempuh pendakian ini untuk menikmati karunia alam di kampung halaman mereka, walaupun kegelisahan akibat letusan abu gunung berapi belum juga 24 jam berlalu. Dampak letusan Sinabung

JAKARTA TO MEDAN

Flight Time 1 hour, 55 minutes

Frequency 70 flights per week

• Medan

Many local people will come to this safe place to relax and enjoy the sunset and views of the active volcano, Mount Sinabung.

The local delicacy arsik fish.

The famous local fruit, passion fruit, or as the locals call it, buah markisa.

Barbecued sweet corn.

belakangan ini terhadap penduduk Berastagi sesungguhnya menyedihkan dan tidak menguntungkan, namun pada saat yang sama, bagaimana orang-orang ini menunjukkan ketangguhan dalam melanjutkan kehidupan mereka, sama menakjubkannya dengan kemegahan Sinabung itu sendiri.

© travel im

ages / Alam

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