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Best Survival Cold Weapon

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

DISCLAIMER ................................................................................................................................... 4

Survival Defense When You Are Not Allowed To Own Firearms ............................................. 5

Edged Weapons .......................................................................................................................................................... 5

Blunt Force Weapons ................................................................................................................................................ 6

Edgy Weapons For Survival .......................................................................................................... 9

Different Types of Edges .......................................................................................................................................... 9

Folding Knives or Pocket Knives....................................................................................................................... 9

Fixed Blade Knives .............................................................................................................................................. 10

Bowie Knife ........................................................................................................................................................... 10

Spear Point/ Knife Hybrid ................................................................................................................................ 11

Machetes ................................................................................................................................................................ 11

Hatchets or tomahawks .................................................................................................................................... 11

Sickles and Curved Blades ............................................................................................................................... 11

Folding Saws ......................................................................................................................................................... 11

Compact Folding Tool Kits .............................................................................................................................. 12

Game Dressing Sets ........................................................................................................................................... 12

How to Keep Your Knives at the Ready .......................................................................................................... 13

Storing ..................................................................................................................................................................... 14

Polishing ................................................................................................................................................................. 14

Ready To Draw? Survival Bows On A Budget ........................................................................... 16

Basic Bow Types ....................................................................................................................................................... 16

Long Bow .................................................................................................................................................................... 17

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Recurve Bow .............................................................................................................................................................. 17

Compound Bow ....................................................................................................................................................... 17

Recurve Crossbow ................................................................................................................................................... 18

Compound crossbow ............................................................................................................................................. 18

DIY Cold Weapons For Survival ................................................................................................. 20

DIY Knives ................................................................................................................................................................... 21

DIY Modern Sling .................................................................................................................................................... 22

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DISCLAIMER

THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN “BEST SURVIVAL COLD WEAPONS” IS MEANT TO SERVE

AS A COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTION OF TIME-TESTED AND PROVEN STRATEGIES THAT THE

AUTHORS OF THIS COURSE LEARN OVER THE YEARS. SUMMARIES, STRATEGIES, TIPS AND

TRICKS ARE ONLY RECOMMENDATIONS BY THE AUTHORS, AND READING THIS EBOOK DOES

NOT GUARANTEE THAT ONE’S RESULTS WILL EXACTLY MIRROR OUR OWN RESULTS. THE

AUTHOR OF “BEST SURVIVAL COLD WEAPONS” HAS MADE ALL REASONABLE EFFORTS TO

PROVIDE CURRENT AND ACCURATE INFORMATION FOR THE READERS OF THIS COURSE. THE

AUTHOR WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY UNINTENTIONAL ERRORS OR OMISSIONS THAT

MAY BE FOUND.

THE MATERIAL IN “BEST SURVIVAL COLD WEAPONS” MAY INCLUDE INFORMATION,

PRODUCTS, OR SERVICES BY THIRD PARTIES. THIRD PARTY MATERIALS COMPRISE OF THE

PRODUCTS AND OPINIONS EXPRESSED BY THEIR OWNERS. AS SUCH, THE AUTHORS OF THIS

GUIDE DO NOT ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY OR LIABILITY FOR ANY THIRD PARTY MATERIAL OR

OPINIONS.THE PUBLICATION OF SUCH THIRD PARTY MATERIALS DOES NOT CONSTITUTE THE

AUTHORS’ GUARANTEE OF ANY INFORMATION, INSTRUCTION, OPINION, PRODUCTS OR

SERVICE CONTAINED WITHIN THE THIRD PARTY MATERIAL.

WHETHER BECAUSE OF THE GENERAL EVOLUTION OF THE INTERNET, OR THE UNFORESEEN

CHANGES IN COMPANY POLICY AND EDITORIAL SUBMISSION GUIDELINES, WHAT IS STATED

AS FACT AT THE TIME OF THIS WRITING, MAY BECOME OUTDATED OR SIMPLY INAPPLICABLE

AT A LATER DATE. THIS MAY APPLY TO THE “BEST SURVIVAL COLD WEAPONS” AS WELL AS

THE VARIOUS SIMILAR COMPANIES THAT WEHAVE REFERENCED IN THIS EBOOK, AND OUR

SEVERAL COMPLEMENTARY GUIDES. GREAT EFFORT HAS BEEN EXERTED TO SAFEGUARD THE

ACCURACY OF THIS WRITING. OPINIONS REGARDING SIMILAR WEBSITE PLATFORMS HAVE

BEEN FORMULATED AS A RESULT OF BOTH PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, AS WELL AS THE WELL

DOCUMENTED EXPERIENCES OF OTHERS.

NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION SHALL BE REPRODUCED, TRANSMITTED OR RESOLD IN

WHOLE OR IN PART IN ANY FORM, WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT OF THE

AUTHORS. ALL TRADEMARKS AND REGISTERED TRADEMARKS APPEARING IN “BEST SURVIVAL

COLD WEAPONS” ARE THE PROPERTY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE OWNER.

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Survival Defense When You Are Not

Allowed To Own Firearms

In the time before a major crisis occurs, private ownership or use of firearms, bows and arrows,

and crossbows may be illegal and banned. As the situation gets worse, the government will

impose martial law and confiscate weapons no matter how well you may think they are hidden.

Here are a few weapons that may be overlooked and that can be used to protect your family

and loved ones.

Edged Weapons

Edged weapons are the oldest implements used by man. Then, as now, you can make knives

and other edged weapons from flint, obsidian, bronze, arsenic copper-bronze, tin-bronze, iron.

Today, there are three kinds of steel that you may be interested in:

Damascus steel - originated in India about the 5th century BC. The steel was heated to

red hot, hammered, folded, and then quickly cooled in water. This process was repeated

at least 500 times. This produced a better weapons grade steel.

Carbon steel - will rust if exposed to air and moisture. The rust if heavy will flake off

causing the steel to weaken and break.

Stainless steel is an alloy with a minimum of 10% chromium by mass. Stainless steel does

not rust or stain by water as ordinary steel does. When heated the chromium becomes

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chromium oxide that acts to form an air and water tight film that seals off the metal. This

steel comes in many grades and finishes.

The following edged tools and weapons can be used as a substitute for firearms for protection.

All of them can be dipped in poison so that even a single glancing blow can be a lethal one.

Farm Tools: Any of the metal farming or gardening tools can be used as weapons to

protect yourself or the family. The spade, rake, pitchfork, pick, sickle, hand hoe, and

garden claw all make excellent choices for either offensive or defensive weapons.

Bayonets: Either spike or flat knife designs can be used as is or cut back to make push

knives. You can also add a set of brass or other metal knuckles by welding it to the

shortened bayonet.

Daggers and Boot Knives: These double edged knives have a blade longer than 6 inches

and are used to stick or slash. Most have a skull crusher at the back of the hilt.

Small Knives: Usually the blades are shorter than 6 inches long and can be a folding or a

non-folding version. These knives are good defensive or offensive weapons because they

can be “palmed” and used without them being seen.

Swords: There are two different edge designs for swords. The first is the single edge the

other is the double edge. There are several lengths of swords. The first is the short sword

which is 16 to 18 inches long, regular size sword which is 20 to 24 inches long, and the

two handed sword that measures over four feet long. The short and the regular size

swords can be used for protection and carried inconspicuously, but the long two handed

sword is too large to be practical for anything other than staving off an attack on your

home.

Spears: Have a 4 to 6 foot shaft with a metal spear point at the top. These weapons are

designed to be thrown or thrusted into a human target.

Throwing Stars: Are metal shaped stars that have sharpened points that were designed

to be thrown at a target and stick into it. In the hands of a trained individual they can kill

or do great bodily harm.

Axes or hatchets: Are used for chopping. Some axes have double or single edges. As a

weapon it can be thrown and deliver a bloody crushing wound or blunt trauma if the

back blunt end hits first.

Blunt Force Weapons

Blunt force weapons use weight instead of sharp edges to kill or do great bodily harm. Damage

to the body is caused by crushing instead of cutting.

Canes: originally used to steady and help a person in walking. A cane can be used as a

nightstick type weapon and can deliver knockout or death blows to the head, break arms

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or legs, or cause deep blunt trauma wounds to the central body core. Historically the

cane sword was a way to carry a sword concealed and at the ready if needed. This

weapon is easy to carry in plain sight.

Clubs: Usually made of heavy wood or metal scrap. These are crushing weapons that

break bones or deliver deep trauma to inner organs.

Bats: Wood or aluminum bats used to play baseball also make a good weapon. A bat can

easily break bones or kill if they hit the right part of the body.

Staffs or walking sticks: For thousands of years staffs were a defensive and sometimes

offensive weapon for the poor or peasants. An individual who was good with a staff

could disarm a person with a sword or a gun.

Maces: Maces were a medieval blunt force weapon made of steel or other strong metals.

It was designed to crush skulls and brake limbs with blunt force. Today it is still a good

defensive weapon in times of major crisis.

Chains: Chains made of steel or other heavy metals can be used as weapons in a

defensive roll. They can be made to look like every day clothing accessories such as belts.

They can deliver deadly crushing blows or break limbs.

Slings (2 Cord Type): Is a very old weapon that goes back thousands of years. It is easy to

hid or conceal. With a little bit of practice it is possible to hit or kill your target out to 200

feet or better with rocks or scrapes of metal. Slings can be either defensive or offensive

weapons.

Slingshots for stone, metal projectiles, or arrows: Slingshots are no longer a toy. They

can be used to hunt small game by launching a ball bearing, rocks, and even arrows with

deadly accuracy. This weapon can also be used defensively to protect your family in the

absence of firearms.

Hand to Hand Fighting techniques: There are many forms from boxing to martial arts.

Choose the fighting technique that best meets your needs and start studying today.

Do not wait until the last moment to start the training.

Offensive

Weapon

Defensive

Weapon

Concealable Open

Carry

Lethal Non-Lethal Manufactured Home

Made

Farm Tools X X X X X X X X

Bayonets X X X X X X

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Daggers

and Boot

Knives

X X X X X X X

Small

Knives

X X X X X X X

Swords X X X X X X X X

Spears X X X X X X X

Throwing

Stars

X X X X X X X

Axes and

Hatchets

X X X X X X X X

Canes X X X X X X X

Clubs X X X X X X X

Bats X X X X X X X X

Staffs X X X X X X X

Maces X X X X X X X

Chains X X X X X X X

2 Cord

Sling

X X X X X X

Slingshots X X X X X X X

In a time when all private firearm ownership is banned or illegal, the above are a few alternatives

for weapons that might be put into service to protect your family and loved ones. Almost

anything can be used as a weapon regardless of the situation.

As with prisons and jails, you only need a creative mind and the will to have a weapon in order

to get around any law or force used to try and take away your ability to defend yourself.

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Edgy Weapons For Survival

Since the dawn of time man has made knives for protection, dressing animal kills, and waging

war. The first knives were made of stone. As time went on knives and other edged weapons

were made of metals such bronze, iron, and finally steel. Today these tools are made of stainless

steel or composite materials.

While guns serve a key purpose in any survival strategy, knives and other edged tools are also

very important. Similar to guns, you will need to check the laws to find out which ones can be

owned in your area.

Different Types of Edges

Folding Knives or Pocket Knives

A folding knife has a blade that rotates on a pin in the handle in such a way that the edge of the

blade sits in the handle when folded up. A locking device located in the handle keeps the knife

open while using it. To close the knife, push on the locking device, and fold the blade back

inside the handle. This type of knife is carried in the pocket or on a pocket clip on your belt.

Our Recommendation: Kershaw Folding Knife.

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Fixed Blade Knives

Fixed blade knives have a blade that is usually made with one piece of metal and a pair of hand

grips (one on each side of the blade) to safely and comfortably hold the knife. When this knife is

not being used it can be put in a leather sheath that is carried on your belt.

We prefer the Ka-Bar. It is a tried and true knife that has been carried by the military and

survivalists since WWII. This knife will not let you down when you need it the most.

Bowie Knife

This is a heavy duty working or fighting knife. The Blade is made of thick heavy steel, usually

from 8 to 14 inches long. The grips are made of deer, elk antlers, bone, or wood. The Bowie knife

is carried in a leather sheath or composite sheath.

Even though there are commercial bowies available, I prefer custom made by Johnny Z, an up

and coming custom knife maker with a growing national reputation. I have carried this

particular bowie knife for years and it is much better in comparison to others I have handled.

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Spear Point/ Knife Hybrid

This is basically a fixed blade knife with a handle that unscrews from the blade. The blade point

can be mounted onto a broomstick or threaded wooden or metal shaft.

Our Recommendation: SOG Spirit. While fairly new on the market, it is an ideal multi-purpose

tool for your bug-out kit.

Machetes

Machetes, or jungle knives have a blade ranging from 18“ to 24“ long. It is used to chop a path

through vegetation.

Our Recommendation: Cold Steel Machete.

Hatchets or tomahawks

Hatchets or tomahawks are used for chopping and hacking. They can chop wood or other

housekeeping duties. They can also be a very dangerous weapon in skilled hands, or when

paired with a bowie knife.

Our Recommendation: SOG Tomahawk.

Sickles and Curved Blades

These tools date back to the beginning of man’s agricultural pursuits. They are generally used to

work the fields. From biblical times forward, the sickle was a very dangerous weapon that could

cut off a man’s limbs or his head. While the Romans outlawed other knives, Celtic peasants and

others were still allowed to keep their sickles for farming purposes.

Our Recommendation: Custom sickle made by Johnny Z. Commercial sickles are available,

however I have had this one from Johnny Z for several years now. Custom sickles make a great

gift for the survivor fan or herbalist among your family and friends.

Folding Saws

These saws are used cut through wood, bones while dressing game, or even metal that needs to

be cut.

Our Recommendation: Ruko.

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Compact Folding Tool Kits

Folding tool kits are designed as an easy and compact way to carry tools like pliers, screwdrivers,

knife blades, to sewing needles. More elaborate kits may contain scissors and other fold out

tools.

Our Recommendation: Leatherman Tool Set.

Game Dressing Sets

Game dressing sets usually have all the cutting and sawing tools required to field dress animals

or fish used for food. A good kit also includes an instruction books on how to use, clean, and

store each tool.

Our Recommendation: Ruko

As with the perfect guns for survival needs, you can always find something cheaper than the

tools listed in this article. In the end, penny wise becomes dollar foolish no matter whether you

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are talking about knives, guns (such as the WASR-10 AK which is known for rattling after firing

about 400 rounds and slowly self-destructs after that – just had to add this for all the WASR fans

out there!), or even bows and arrows.

You are better off spending a few dollars more for reliable knives and dressing kits than have

them fail when you need them most and have no way to replace them.

How to Keep Your Knives at the Ready

The Japanese used to say that the sword is the soul of the Samurai. Cold weapons are my

preferred choice too when it comes to a survival situation and even for self-defense. I always

carry with me a Cold Steel Recon 1 folder, it comes handy in a variety of scenarios, ranging from

opening hate-mail to making fires when trekking.

The best thing about cold weapons is that they are easy to carry around and they don’t require

too much effort to keep them running. Also they don’t need reloading, ammo and the like. That

kind of stuff can become scarce if SHTF.

But if you want your preferred cold weapons to last you for a life-time, they will require some

maintenance, just like any other tool. Basically, all of our equipment needs to be frequently and

properly maintained in order to preserve their qualities and serve you well for many years to

come.

If you’ve allowed your weapons to fall into disrepair, don’t despair: even a rusty knife can be

restored almost completely to its initial “sharp and shiny” state with just a few simple tricks and

some elbow grease.

As a general rule of thumb, all the knives and swords in your collection should be stored in a dry

place when you’re not using them and covered with a thin layer of oil. Even if they’re made of

stainless steel, keep them oiled at all times, because even stainless steel is prone to rusting

under certain conditions.

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Storing

Play safe, will you? Keep in mind that the best protection

for your cold weapons is provided by that layer of oil.

Using a high quality brand of oil is advisable.

I personally use Ballistol, but there are lots of companies

with good products in the field. A good oil maintains its

lubricating properties for an extended period of time.

If your cold weapons have leather/wooden grips and

scabbards, you should take care of those too, by

covering them with a thin layer of leather wax, so they’ll

be protected when exposed to moist environments/open

air for extended periods of time.

Polishing

Polishing is another item on your to-do list if you care about your cold weapons. For polishing,

you can use thin varieties of sand paper or steel wool. With a little bit of perseverance and skill,

you can easily remove those rusty spots in no time.

If you notice slight oxidation marks on your cold weapons, you can use a soft cloth or a scouring

sponge to remove them but be aware that bronze and brass parts are very sensitive and they’ll

get scratched when using even the finest sandpaper.

You must be extra careful when choosing the right sandpaper for polishing. If the granulation is

too coarse, you will do more harm than good to your cold weapon. When you need to polish

brass parts, the best thing to do is to use a rust killer.

One of the best substances to use when polishing both steel and brass is toothpaste. Yeah, you

got that right: toothpaste contains hydrated silica, which is very fine textured and abrasive and

works like a charm, even for polishing jewelry and silverware. All you have to do is to smear the

weapon that needs polishing with toothpaste, let it dry for a while, and rub it off again with a

soft cloth and water. In this way, you will avoid scratches and unevenness and the end result will

be awesome!

Iron files and whetstone can be used for removing burrs and unevenness that are visible on your

cold weapons due to heavy usage and/or improper storage conditions. Just like with sandpaper,

you must make sure that both the whetstone and iron files are finely textured, so they won’t

leave marks/traces on the metal.

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This method has been used for centuries and it’s still the best way to remove burrs from your

cold weapons. All it takes is patience and some skill that you will acquire with time and practice.

Don’t worry, it is perfectly normal for all heavy-duty tools to develop burrs and unevenness, but

it’s best to remove them as soon as possible.

Please keep in mind that someday you may need to count on your cold weapons for your

survival. You must be sure that they will serve you flawlessly in such a situation and if you take

your weapons maintenance seriously, they’ll be there for you.

That about sums it up. Cut and dried: keep’em sharp, dry, clean and mean!

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Ready to Draw? Survival Bows On A

Budget

If you haven’t touched a bow and arrow since gym archery classes, then you may not realize

both vintage and new models hold a valuable place in hunting and survival.

As with choosing the right gun or knife, you may find that one bow type and accessories will

work better than others. As long as you choose a model that you can use easily and effectively,

it will go a long way towards helping you provide food and protect yourself when SHTF.

Basic Bow Types

From early times, humans could hunt, fish, or defend at a distance with a bow and arrows. The

first bow, or Long Bow, was nothing more than a thick branch with animal gut tied to each end

to serve as the bow string.

As time went on the bows became longer and heavier. Their range became longer until shooting

and hitting a target at over 100 yards was the norm. The main bow variations in use today

include:

Recurve Bow - has an additional curve on each end which magnifies the power of draw

to increase distance, speed, and accuracy.

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Compound bows – uses a cam system to create a smooth draw, high lift-off, and a more

powerful arrow flight.

Crossbow - This bow is held horizontal to the ground. It has a stock mounted at the

center of the bow arms, which can be used to mount scopes, and serve as the bolt

path. A foot stirrup is located on the front center of the bow, and is used to pull the

string back and arm the bow. Since the bow arms are thicker and heavier, the

crossbow superior to standard bows. To fire, place a bolt in the groove, aim, and pull the

trigger. As with standard bows, you can buy recurve and compound designs. Modern

body armor cannot stop a bolt from a good quality crossbow, but can usually deflect

arrows from conventional bows.

WARNING: When shooting a crossbow, keep a tight hold the hand grip, and do not allow your

fingers to slide upward, or the string will cut your fingers off with ease.

Long Bow

This bow was made from the heart wood of the Ash, Yew, or the Oak tree, and should be the

same height as the person using it. Traditionally this bow does not use modern sights thus the

accuracy may not be as good as modern bows, but in its day it was good enough to put food on

the table or kill an enemy.

This is a weapon that should not be under estimated. Long bow costs range from $88.00-

$583.99, and are usually made from wood or fiberglass, although I made my bow many years

ago from Ash wood and deer gut.

Recurve Bow

This bow is made of Ash, yew, or oak, with lamination for extra strength. Unlike the long bow, it

has a curve at each end that makes it possible to take deer on the first shot with good

placement.

I Prefer the Greatree Archery Deerslayer recurve bow with a 50 lb draw. The workmanship and

sight on the bow are both good, and worth the 223.00 investment on this bow.

Compound Bow

Today’s compound bows are usually made from lightweight materials such as Carbon or

Fiberglass with an aluminum riser. This bow has three main advantages:

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The pulley/cam system make it easy to use by just about anyone. A

50 pound draw can be done with less than 30 pounds of pull.

These bows are not affected by temperature or humidity.

Since it takes less energy to hold the string back, you can take more

time to aim.

Our preference – the Venture compound bow which is part of the Mission

Series by Mathews, which runs around $499.00. This is a durable bow with an

adjustable draw weight from 50 to 70 lbs. It makes a good starter bow

for teens, yet has more than enough power for adult men and women.

Recurve Crossbow

Today’s modern recurve crossbows are the end result of

applying modern materials to a classic weapon.

These bows are stronger, lighter, faster, and safer than their

old counterparts.

My preference is, for sure, The Matrix 355 by Excalibur, which

is a very good recurve crossbow priced at $899.99. This

crossbow comes with a good accessory package containing a

Tact-zone scope with 30mm rings, a four bolt quiver with

bracket, four Diablo bolts with 150

grain field points, and a rope cocking aid.

Compound crossbow

These bows are made from light weight, strong material that gives

greater speed and accuracy than conventional crossbows.

The pulley/cam systems also give greater accuracy and allow for a

longer aiming time and faster second shots.

Our preference is The Invader Crossbow by Ten Point is a no nonsense

hunting crossbow that runs around 500.00 for the basic package. It

comes with a Ridge-Dot 40mm multi-dot scope, self-retracting rope-

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cocking system, and a detachable 3 bolt quiver.

In conclusion, the bow and arrow have changed much through time, yet each type still serves an

important purpose. As you search for the best bow for hunting and survival, keep in mind your

physical condition and what you want to use the bow for.

Always remember that long term survival after SHTF can be seriously hampered by failure to

practice, or choosing cheap equipment now that will fail to work properly later on.

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DIY Cold Weapons for Survival

In this day and age, making your own tools and weapons may seem an anachronism and also

pretty inadequate. There are knives made from high-tech materials available everywhere, and

plenty of models to choose from. Regardless of your need or your preference, there’s a knife ou

there to suit your needs.

What happens, though, if society collapses and there are no longer superstores from which to

purchase any knives? This theory applies to absolutely everything, including tools, weapons,

food, and even clothes. We are living in modern times; everything is just a click away or a phone

call away, but that can change in the blink of an eye.

Suppose that you are facing a life and death situation. Maybe the sun won’t shine tomorrow, or

you’ll get lost in the woods, or your plane will crash, many scenarios are possible in which you

will need a knife but won’t have one. When you’re in the wild, a knife will be your best friend; it

could literally be the difference between life and death.

If you like knives like I do, you may be interested in a crash course on “how to make your own

knife”. I bet you’ve asked yourself at least once (I surely did) how a knife is made. Making your

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own knife is like the ultimate level when it comes to survival. So, if you’re forced to make your

own blade, to protect and to serve you, what would you do? Where would you start from?

DIY Knives

Modern knives are made of various qualities of steel or other

alloys, plastic or various composite materials. When you’re lost

in the wilderness, it would seem improbable for you to have

access to cutting tools, hammers, forges and other tools and

equipment necessary for forging metals. So a regular “made of

steel” knife is out of the question.

That’s okay though, because the first knives were made in an

era in which iron was not even discovered yet. There are certainly other ways to get the job

done. The first knives are dated from the Stone Age, and they were made out of stone by our

crafty ancestors.

Making a knife out of stone is not very hard at all. Practically anybody, with a little bit of practice,

can build himself a cool knife by flint knapping, just like the prehistoric men did.

Flint knapping (the process of shaping stone into a tool or weapon) can be done using

hammerrock tools as well as wood and bone to refine them. Obsidian, flint, and chert are

common stones used in knife-making.

In theory, it’s a simple process: find a piece of rock that has the desired dimensions and hammer

it with another rock until you give it a “knife like” shape. After that you must flake off the end of

the “blade” to make it sharp and affix a handle on the other end and voila! It only takes a few

rocks and some mad skills (that you’ll acquire with practice) to make yourself a cool looking,

functional knife.

Now, here are the basic steps you need to follow when making your own knife:

1. Find your raw materials. Native Americans were experts in obsidian and flint knapping, primly

because it’s readily available in many places and both are good materials for knives. As a

beginner, flint is probably your best option. Both rocks are very hard and tough, they cut well

and yet they’re pretty easy to carve and to bring them to the desired shape. The bigger the

initial rock, the larger the blade will be.

Geology rocks folks! Knowing which rock is what when it comes to stones could prove very

useful in a survival situation, so get your facts straight and learn how to distinguish between

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different types of rock. For example, obsidian looks like black glass, because it’s actually

solidified magma, and it’s pretty hard to find. Flint on the other hand is more common. As a

general rule of thumb, creeks are abundant in high quality rocks for making blades, so that’s

where you should take a look first.

2. Find yourself a hammerstone, which is actually a medium sized rock that you will be using for

striking off the blades. The hammer stone should be as closed to a spherical shape as possible.

3. Use the hammer stone to strike the edge of the rock (the future knife) and if you strike well,

the force of the strike will shatter the bottom of the rock, creating a blade like profile. It’s hard to

explain; all you need is practice.

4. Be careful when hitting the rock, because rock shrapnel may hurt your eyes. Also avoid hitting

your fingers. Don’t hit too hard; go nice and easy and have patience at all times.

5. Use a piece of wood or your hammerrock to polish the blade till it’s sharp.

6. After the job’s done, you’ll have to add a handle to the sharp flint blade. You can use a piece

of wood for that, affixed with wire or something improvised from your own clothes.

If our ancestors could do it, so can we. All it takes is practice and patience. Good luck!

DIY Modern Sling

Even though the sling became less important as guns and other weapons became more

available, slings are still used in Palestine and many other parts of the world for personal

defense and hunting.

With a good arm and a good spin on the sling, the max range is about 100 yards. Very

few people can throw a rock that far and still have the energy to stun a man or an

animal. Basically projectiles are stones, pieces of metal, or anything else you choose to launch.

As long as the projectile fits into the pouch, and can be spun, it can be released. The heavier the

object to be launched, the shorter is the range.

Materials & Tools:

2 pieces of paracord or braided rope. You can also use braids of leather cord, but make

sure you braid together enough leather strips to make two pieces of cording.

Small piece of leather or thick canvas for the pouch. A 4“x 2“piece should be more than

enough for leather. Make the pouch 1/2“bigger for canvas.

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Optional Materials: metal rings or grommets designed to protect holes in canvas (not

needed if you use leather).

Leather punch or knife

Scissors

Small ruler

Long stick matches or candle lighter

Optional Tools: needle and thread if you are going to use canvas for the pouch.

You must know how to tie taut line hitch knot and half knot.

Step 1: Measure leather with ruler and cut into 4“x 2“strip.

If you are going to use canvas, make the square a little bit

bigger so that you can sew off the borders.

Do this by folding a small bit of fabric under, iron it, and

then fold again so that the raw fabric is not exposed. Sew

through all the way around

the square and through the

layers.

Step 2: Punch or cut 4 holes

along the top and bottom of

the 4 inch sides. There

should be enough boundary around each hole to prevent the

leather or canvas from fraying or tearing.

Step 3: Cut 2 paracord, braided rope or leather braid lengths to

about 7‘each. When testing and measuring the sling it must not

hit the ground. If it does,you will have to shorten both cords.

Step 4: If you are using paracord, seal off the ends by burning

with candle lighter, and then quickly dipping in cold water.

Do not touch the ends for some time, as they will retain heat for

a bit and burn your fingers.

Note – paracord will stretch, so do not make these cords too

long or you will have to shorten them later on.

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Step 5: Thread one cord through each of the four holes in the

bottom and top of the 4 inch edge of the leather or canvas.

Starting by coming up through the first hole, then down through

the second hole, up through the third hole, and down through

the fourth hole.

Step 6: Pull each cord so the pouch is at the bottom of the loop

and the paracord is equal at the top.

Step 7: Tie a half knot about a foot from the pouch to help

stabilize the cords on each side of the sling.

Step 8: If you have too much paracord or leather left over on

each side, cut away the excess, and then re-seal the paracord

with candle lighter.

Step 9: Make a loop to fit your hand and wrist through one

cord. Make a taut line hitch knot and adjust so that the cord is

comfortable around your wrist.

Step 10: On the other cord, tie a half knot at the point where

you will grab that cord when spinning. When holding the sling,

there should not be any slack in either cord. The knot is there to

help you feel which cord needs to be released while operating

the sling.

In order to use this type sling, put your hand through the loop

cord with the cord falling between the thumb and the first finger

on the palm side of your hand. With thumb and the first finger,

grasp the knot on the release cord. At this point the loop cord should be enclosed in the circle

formed by the thumb and first finger. Hold the sling with the pouch hanging freely, load and

center the rock in the pouch.

There are two ways to spin the sling:

Underhand spin: After loading the sling, swing the sling forward as if you are pitching a

softball. Swing from the shoulder not the wrist. Think of the sling as an extension of your

arm. Release the knot cord so that the rock will the leave the pouch at about a 45 degree

angle from the ground. When using the underhand spin it is possible to get a running

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start. This spin is good for power and distance, but lacks accuracy. Practice to get the

release point.

Over the head spin: Start with an underhand and forward spin. As the sling is swirling on

your power side bring it over your head by bending your elbow. The sling will be

spinning parallel to the ground. Remember that the cords are an extension of your arm.

As the sling spins forward release the knot cord as if you were throwing a hard baseball.

Practice to get the release point.

Like any other weapon, practice is mandatory to keep up your skill. When all of the modern

weapons are broken or discarded the simple two cord sling will still be here to defend your

family or to use in hunting, just as it has for other people for many thousands of years.