Best Things to do in Florence - Luxury Link...Pizza that will make your belly full 5 Day 1 - Florence QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: The first visit to Florence should be a relaxing and special

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Chi King

Best Things to do in Florence

Florence, 4 Days

Table of contents:Guide Description 2

Itinerary Overview 3

Daily Itineraries 5

My List 24

Florence Snapshot 26

http://www.nileguide.com/destination/florence/trips/best-things-to-do-in-florence/5799168

Guide Description

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AUTHOR NOTE: First time in Florence, here are the essentialplaces to see and enjoy. Your first visit should include the biglandmarks like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and museums like theUffizi and the Accademia.

Itinerary Overview things to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Day 1 - FlorenceDAY NOTE: The first visit to Florence should be a relaxing andspecial one. On your first day, enjoy the enchantment of SantaCroce church. Then if the weather is gorgeous, take a stroll(Imean very slow) to Piazzale Michelangelo and enjoy the Tuscancountryside by taking some pictures or eating a gelato fromthe nearby vendors. If you still have the energy to climb moreflights of stairs, conquer San Miniato just down the road from thePiazzale. The vista from the top is break-taking.

Santa CroceFranciscan Basilica

Piazzale MichelangeloFantastic view over the city and the hills of Tuscany.

I FratelliniSips and snacks

San Miniato al MonteRomanesque Church on the Florentine Hills

Osteria Antica Mescita San NiccolòUnusual Local Dishes Inside a Crypt

Day 2 - FlorenceDAY NOTE: As you wake up, know that you will be seeing one ofthe most gorgeous art museums today in Florence. Galleria degliUffizi holds pieces by Da Vinci, Filippo Lippi, and Caravaggio.Making a reservation in advance will make your trip to the Uffiziand the Accademia much more calm. The Accademia shows offthe work of Michelangelo from his later years, some pieces arestill unfinished. Lorenzaccio is a delicious and friendly pizzeriawhere you can enjoy people-watching from your table.

Galleria dell'Accademia (AcademyGallery)Paintings, Sculptures and Michelangelo's David

OrsanmicheleMedieval Grain Market

Lorenzaccio (Il)Dine in the Piazza della Signoria

Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi Galleries)World-Renowned Art Collection

Volpe e l'Uva (Le)Wine Lover's Delight

Day 3 - FlorenceDAY NOTE: I bet you are wondering why I didn't put the Duomoas the first to see. It is a glorious site but since it is in the center,you can visit the inside and climb the dome whenever it feelsright. The Museo dell Opera del Duomo is located right behindthe church so it is a great second stop on the cobblestones ofFlorence. Much of the original statues and artwork from theDuomo are stored there. For a nice mid-morning snack or lunch,enjoy Enoteca Coquinarius. It is small, cozy and full of deliciouswine.

Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria deiFiori)The Dome of Brunelleschi

Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (DuomoWorks Museum)An Interesting Museum

Bar-Enoteca CoquinariusWine Bar with a warm atmosphere

Mercato CentraleFresh fruits, veggies, cheeses, fish and meat.

Trattoria MarioneOld style trattoria

Day 4 - FlorenceDAY NOTE: Grom is by far the best gelato you can taste inFlorence. Take it with you on your walk towards San Lorenzo.While outside there is a bustling market, inside the church you willfind many tombs of the famous Medici family. Also attached to thechurch is the Cappella dei Medici. The tombs were sculpted byMichelangelo and a grand sight to see. Ponte Vecchio being theoldest bridge in Florence, welcomes it's visitors to window shopand step in to the ancient gold and silver shops. For lunch, stopat Yellow Bar. It is a great afternoon sit for a pizza or a deliciouslyfilling calzone. For an evening activity, take a walk before 7pm tothe Loggia del Mercato Nuovo. This is a smaller more secluded

Itinerary Overview things to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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market that is located close to Piazza della Signoria. Pass overthe Ponte Vecchio to the Oltrarno, and head towards SantoSpirito. There is where one of the best pizzeria's are located.Borgo Antico is always crowded and the atmosphere is quite calmand serene in Piazza Santo Spirto.

San LorenzoChurch of the Medici

GromA mix of a modern ambiance with classical gelatoselections.

Ponte VecchioThe Ponte Vecchio(Old Bridge) has history and manyjewelry shops.

Yellow BarFriendly, Young Clientèle

Loggia del Mercato NuovoFontana del Porcellino will bring you fortune.

Borgo AnticoPizza that will make your belly full

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Day 1 - FlorenceQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: The first visit to Florence should be a relaxing and special one. On your first day, enjoy the enchantment of Santa Crocechurch. Then if the weather is gorgeous, take a stroll(I mean very slow) to Piazzale Michelangelo and enjoy the Tuscan countryside bytaking some pictures or eating a gelato from the nearby vendors. If you still have the energy to climb more flights of stairs, conquer SanMiniato just down the road from the Piazzale. The vista from the top is break-taking.

contact:tel: 055-244-619fax: +39 055 246 6105http://www.santacroce.firenze.it/

location:piazza Santa Croce 16Florence 50122

hours:Mon-Sat 9:30am-5:30pm; Sun1-5:30pm

1 Santa Croce

DESCRIPTION: The center of the Florentine Franciscanuniverse was begun in 1294 by Gothic master Arnolfo diCambio in order to rival the huge church of Santa Maria Novellabeing raised by the Dominicans across the city. The churchwasn't completed and consecrated until 1442, and even thenit remained faceless until the neo-Gothic facade was addedin 1857 (and cleaned in 1998-99). The cloisters are hometo Brunelleschi's Cappella de' Pazzi, the convent partiallygiven over to a famous leather school, and the church itself ashrine of 14th-century frescoes and a monument to notableFlorentines, whose tombs and memorials litter the place likean Italian Westminster. The best artworks, such as the Giottofrescoes, are guarded by euro-gobbling lightboxes; bring plentyof change. The Gothic interior -- for which they now chargea premium admission (it was free until recently) -- is wide andgaping, with huge pointed stone arches creating the aislesand an echoing nave trussed with wood beams, in all feelingvaguely barnlike (an analogy the occasional fluttering pigeononly reinforces). The floor is paved with worn tombstones --because being buried in this hallowed sanctuary got you onestep closer to Heaven, the richest families of the day paid

Katie Greenaway

Day 1 - continued...

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big bucks to stake out small rectangles of the floor. On theright aisle is the first tomb of note, a mad Vasari contraptioncontaining the bones of the most venerated of Renaissancemasters, Michelangelo Buonarroti, who died of a fever inRome in 1564 at the ripe age of 89. The pope wanted himburied in the Eternal City, but Florentines managed to sneak hisbody back to Florence. Past Michelangelo is a pompous 19th-century cenotaph to Florentine Dante Alighieri, one of history'sgreatest poets, whose Divine Comedy codified the Italianlanguage. He died in 1321 in Ravenna after a long and bitterlife in exile from his hometown (on trumped-up embezzlementcharges), and that Adriatic city has never seen fit to returnthe bones to Florence, the city that would never readmit thepoet when he was alive. Against a nave pillar farther up is anelaborate pulpit (1472-76) carved by Benedetto di Maianowith scenes from the life of St. Francis. Next comes a wallmonument to Niccolò Machiavelli, the 16th-century Florentinestatesman and author whose famous book The Prince wasthe perfect practical manual for a powerful Renaissance ruler.Past the next altar is an Annunciation (1433) carved in low reliefof pietra serena and gilded by Donatello. Nearby is AntonioRossellino's 1446 tomb of the great humanist scholar and citychancellor Leonardo Bruni (d. 1444). Beyond this architecturalmasterpiece of a tomb is a 19th-century knockoff honoring theremains of Gioacchino Rossini (1792-1868), composer of theBarber of Seville and the William Tell Overture. Around in theright transept is the Cappella Castellani frescoed by AgnoloGaddi and assistants, with a tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole anda Crucifix by Niccolò Gerini. Agnolo's father, Taddeo Gaddi,was one of Giotto's closest followers, and the senior Gaddiis the one who undertook painting the Cappella Baroncelli(1332-38) at the transept's end. The frescoes depict scenesfrom the Life of the Virgin, and to the left of the window is anAngel Appearing to the Shepherds that constitutes the firstnight scene in Italian fresco. The altarpiece Coronation ofthe Virgin is by Giotto. To the left of this chapel is a doorway,designed by Michelozzo, leading to the sagrestia (sacristy)past a huge Deposition (1560) by Alessandro Allori that hadto be restored after it incurred massive water damage whenthe church was inundated during the 1966 flood. Past the giftshop is a leather school and store. In the right transept, Giottofrescoed the two chapels to the right of the high altar. Thefrescoes were whitewashed over during the 17th century butuncovered from 1841 to 1852 and inexpertly restored. TheCappella Peruzzi, on the right, is a late work and not in thebest shape. The many references to antiquity in the stylingand architecture of the frescoes reflect Giotto's trip to Romeand its ruins. His assistant Taddeo Gaddi did the altarpiece.Even more famous, if only as the setting for a scene in thefilm A Room with a View, is the Cappella Bardi immediatelyto the right of the high altar. The key panels here include theTrial by Fire Before the Sultan of Egypt on the right wall, fullof telling subtlety in the expressions and poses of the figures.One of Giotto's most well-known works is the lower panel onthe left wall, the Death of St. Francis, where the monks weepand wail with convincing pathos. Alas, big chunks of the sceneare missing from when a tomb was stuck on top of it in the18th century. Most people miss seeing Francis Receivingthe Stigmata, which Giotto frescoed above the outside of


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the entrance arch to the chapel. Agnolo Gaddi designed thestained-glass windows, painted the saints between them, andfrescoed a Legend of the True Cross cycle on the walls ofthe rounded sanctuary behind the high altar. At the end ofthe left transept is another Cappella Bardi, this one housinga legendary Crucifix by Donatello. According to Vasari,Donatello excitedly called his friend Filippo Brunelleschi upto his studio to see this Crucifix when he had finished carvingit. The famed architect, whose tastes were aligned with theprevailing view of the time that refinement and grace weremuch more important than realism, criticized the work with thewords, "Why Donatello, you've put a peasant on the cross!"Donatello sniffed, "If it was as easy to make something as it isto criticize, my Christ would really look to you like Christ. Soyou get some wood and try to make one yourself." Secretly,Brunelleschi did just that, and one day he invited Donatello tocome over to his studio for lunch. Donatello arrived bearingthe food gathered up in his apron. Shocked when he beheldBrunelleschi's elegant Crucifix, he let the lunch drop to thefloor, smashing the eggs, and after a few moments turned toBrunelleschi and humbly offered, "Your job is making Christsand mine is making peasants." Tastes change, and to moderneyes this "peasant" stands as the stronger work. If you wantto see how Brunelleschi fared with his Christ, visit it at SantaMaria Novella. Past a door as you head back down the left aisleis a 16th-century Deposition by Bronzino. A bit farther along,against a pier, is the roped-off floor tomb of Lorenzo Ghiberti,sculptor of the baptistery doors. Against the wall is an altarpieceof the Incredulity of St. Thomas by Giorgio Vasari. The lasttomb on the right is that of Galileo Galilei (1564-1642), thepreeminent Pisan scientist who figured out everything from theaction of pendulums and the famous law of bodies falling atthe same rate (regardless of weight) to discovering the moonsof Jupiter and asserting that the earth revolved around thesun. This last one got him in trouble with the church, whichtried him in the Inquisition and -- when he wouldn't recant-- excommunicated him. At the urging of friends frightenedhis obstinacy would get him executed as a heretic, Galileoeventually kneeled in front of an altar and "admitted" he'd beenwrong. He lived out the rest of his days under house arrest nearFlorence and wasn't allowed a Christian burial until 1737. GiulioFoggini designed this tomb for him, complete with a relief ofthe solar system -- the sun, you'll notice, is at the center. Thepope finally got around to lifting the excommunication in 1992.Italians still bring him fresh flowers. © Frommer's

location:Piazzale MichelangeloFlorence 50125

2 Piazzale Michelangelo

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:"Bring a picnic lunch or dinner and enjoy the sunsetwith someone special."

DESCRIPTION: The vista which one can see the wholevalley of Florence and of the surrounding hills is amust see. The climb up is rewarding, the view isbreathtaking. There are buses available to take you to

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Piazzale Michelangelo. Tourists, tourist groups and tourbuses all congregate at this panoramic view. Vendorsset up early in the morning with cool beverages for the parchedtourists and souvenirs for the eager shoppers. A sunsetvisit is for the romantics, bringing a wine bottle and gazing atthe florentine sky as it ends another day. There is no badtime to visit Piazzale Michelangelo, there is always somethingto see. © NileGuide

contact:tel: 055-239-6096

location:Via dei Cimatori 38rFlorence Florence 50122

hours:Daily 8am-8:30pm

3 I Fratellini

DESCRIPTION: Just off the busiest tourist thoroughfare liesone of the last of a dying breed: a fiaschitteria (derived fromthe word for a flask of wine). It's the proverbial hole in the wall,a doorway about 1.5m (5 ft.) deep with rows of wine bottlesagainst the back wall and Armando and Michele Perrino busybehind the counter, fixing sandwiches and pouring glasses ofvino. You stand, munching and sipping, on the cobblestonesof the narrow street surrounded by Florentines on their lunchbreak and a few bemused tourists. The cinghiale piccante concaprino (spicy raw wild boar sausage with creamy goat cheese)is excellent. Otherwise, choose your poison from among 30stuffing combinations -- the menu posted on the doorjamb hasEnglish translations -- and accompany it with either a basicrosso (red) wine or point to any bottle to try un bicchiere (aglass). © Frommer's

Photo courtesy of I Fratellini

contact:tel: 055-234-2731fax: +39 055 234 5354http://www.san-miniato-al-monte.com/

location:via del Monte alle Croci 34Florence Tuscany 50125

hours:Easter to early Oct daily8am-7:30pm; winter Mon-Sat8am-1pm and 2:30-6pm, Sun8am-6pm

4 San Miniato al Monte

DESCRIPTION: High atop a hill, its gleaming white-and-green facadevisible from the valley below, San Miniato is one of the few ancientchurches of Florence to survive the centuries virtually intact. San Miniatowas an eastern Christian who settled in Florence and was martyredduring Emperor Decius's persecutions in A.D. 250. The legend goesthat the decapitated saint picked up his head, walked across the river,climbed up the hillside, and didn't lie down to die until he reached thisspot. He and other Christians were buried here, and a shrine was raisedon the site as early as the 4th century. The current building began to takeshape in 1013, under the auspices of the powerful Arte di Calimala guild,whose symbol, a bronze eagle clutching a bale of wool, perches atop thefacade. The Romanesque facade is a particularly gorgeous bit of whiteCarrara and green Prato marble inlay. Above the central window is a 13th-century mosaic of Christ Between the Madonna and St. Miniato (a themerepeated in a slightly later mosaic filling the apse inside). The interiorhas a few Renaissance additions, but they blend in well with the overallmedieval aspect -- an airy, stony space with a raised choir at one end,painted wooden trusses on the ceiling, and tombs interspersed with inlaidmarble symbols of the zodiac paving the floor. Below the choir is an 11th-century crypt with small frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi. Off to the right ofthe raised choir is the sacristy, which Spinello Aretino covered in 1387with cartoonish yet elegant frescoes depicting the Life of St. Benedict.Off the left aisle of the nave is 15th-century Cappella del Cardinale delPortogallo, a brilliant collaborative effort by Renaissance artists built tohonor young Portuguese humanist Cardinal Jacopo di Lusitania, who

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was sent to study in Perugia but died an untimely death at 25 in Florence.Brunelleschi's student Antonio Manetti started the chapel in 1460 butsoon died, and Antonio Rossellino finished the architecture and carvingby 1466. Luca della Robbia provided the glazed terra-cotta dome, a cubiclandscape set with tondi of the four Virtues surrounding the Holy Spiritto symbolize the young scholar's devotion to the church and to humanistphilosophy. It stands as one of della Robbia's masterpieces of color andclassical ideals. The unfinished bell tower seen from the outside wasdesigned by Baccio d'Agnolo. In 1530 the combined troops of CharlesV and Medici Pope Clement VII, who had recently reconciled with eachother, lay siege to the newly declared Republic of Florence in an attemptto reinstate the Medici dukes. San Miniato al Monte was one of the primefortifications, and an artilleryman named Lapo was stationed up in thetower with two small cannons -- he was basically bait, stuck there to drawthe fire of the enemy where it would do little harm. The man in chargeof the defenses was Michelangelo, who, the authorities figured, was sogood at everything else, why not military fortifications? After throwing updirt ramparts and cobbling together defensible walls out of oak timbers,Michelangelo helped poor Lapo out by devising an ingenious way toprotect the tower: He hung mattresses down the sides to absorb the shockof the cannonballs fired at it and left the tower (and, more important, Lapo)still standing. The siege was eventually successful, however, and theFlorentine Republic fell, but while it lasted, Michelangelo spent his dayup here and referred to the church of San Salvatore al Monte just belowas "my pretty country maid." It's a simple 1400 church built by Cronaca,with a Giovanni della Robbia Deposition and a Neri di Bicci Pietà inside. ©Frommer's

contact:tel: +39 055 234 2836

location:via di San Niccolò 60rFlorence 50125

hours:M-Sa 12:30p-3p & 8p-11p

5 Osteria Antica Mescita San Niccolò

DESCRIPTION: This is a wonderful way of discovering the traditional district of San Niccolo.The restaurant serves classic local dishes and flavours. You should try unusual dishes suchas budelline in umido intestines), tongue, cimalino in salsa verde or cavolo verzo rifatto (savoycabbage). Dishes such as pappa al pomodoro (bread soup with tomato) or spezzatino ai porcini(mushroom stew) are also excellent. Good Tuscan wine is available. This fascinating ancientosteria is located in a crypt which dates back to the 11th century, and is at the back of the Chiesa diSan Niccolo. You only have to go up the stairs on the inside of the establishment to visit the church.© wcities.com

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DAY NOTE: As you wake up, know that you will be seeing one of the most gorgeous art museums today in Florence. Galleria degliUffizi holds pieces by Da Vinci, Filippo Lippi, and Caravaggio. Making a reservation in advance will make your trip to the Uffizi and theAccademia much more calm. The Accademia shows off the work of Michelangelo from his later years, some pieces are still unfinished.Lorenzaccio is a delicious and friendly pizzeria where you can enjoy people-watching from your table.

contact:tel: 055-238-8609fax: 055 238 8764http://www.firenzemusei.it/accademia/home.html

location:Via Ricasoli 60Florence FI 50122

hours:Tues-Sun 8:15am-6:50pm;last admission 30 min. beforeclose

1 Galleria dell'Accademia (AcademyGallery)

DESCRIPTION: Though tour-bus crowds flock here just forMichelangelo's David, anyone with more than a day in Florencecan take the time to peruse some of the Accademia's paintingsas well. The first long hall is devoted to Michelangelo and,though you pass his Slaves and the entrance to the paintinggallery, most visitors are immediately drawn down to the farend, a tribune dominated by the most famous sculpture in theworld: Michelangelo's David. A hot young sculptor fresh fromhis success with the Pietà in Rome, Michelangelo offered in1501 to take on a slab of marble that had already been workedon by another sculptor (who had taken a chunk out of one sidebefore declaring it too strangely shaped to use). The hugeslab had been lying around the Duomo's work yards so longit earned a nickname, Il Gigante (The Giant), so it was with atwist of humor that Michelangelo, only 29 years old, finished in1504 a Goliath-size David for the city. There was originally avague idea that the statue would become part of the Duomo,but Florence's republican government soon wheeled it down tostand on Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazzo Vecchioto symbolize the defeated tyranny of the Medici, who had been

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ousted a decade before (but would return with a vengeance).During a 1527 anti-Medicean siege on the palazzo, a benchthrown at the attackers from one of the windows hit David'sleft arm, which reportedly came crashing down on a farmer'stoe. (A young Giorgio Vasari came scurrying out to gather allthe pieces for safekeeping, despite the riot going on aroundhim, and the arm was later reconstituted.) Even the sculpture's1873 removal to the Accademia to save it from the elements (acopy stands in its place) hasn't kept it entirely safe -- in 1991, aman threw himself on the statue and began hammering at theright foot, dislodging several toes. The foot was repaired, andDavid's Plexiglas shield went up. The hall leading up to Davidis lined with perhaps Michelangelo's most fascinating works,the four famous nonfiniti ("unfinished") Slaves, or Prisoners.Like no others, these statues symbolize Michelangelo's theorythat sculpture is an "art that takes away superfluous material."The great master saw a true sculpture as something thatwas already inherent in the stone, and all it needed was askilled chisel to free it from the extraneous rock. That certainlyseems to be the case here, as we get a private glimpse intoMichelangelo's working technique: how he began by carvingthe abdomen and torso, going for the gut of the sculptureand bringing that to life first so it could tell him how the restshould start to take form. Whether he intended the statues tolook the way they do now or in fact left them only half donehas been debated by art historians to exhaustion. The result,no matter what the sculptor's intentions, is remarkable, asymbol of the master's great art and personal views on craftas his Slaves struggle to break free of their chipped stoneprisons. Nearby, in a similar mode, is a statue of St. Matthew(1504-08), which Michelangelo began carving as part of aseries of Apostles he was at one point going to complete forthe Duomo. (The Pietà at the end of the corridor on the rightis by one of Michelangelo's students, not by the master aswas once thought.) Off this hall of Slaves is the first wing ofthe painting gallery, which includes a panel, possibly froma wedding chest, known as the Cassone Adimari, paintedby Lo Scheggia in the 1440s. It shows the happy couple'spromenade to the Duomo, with the green-and-white marblesof the baptistery prominent in the background. In the wingsoff David's tribune are large paintings by Michelangelo'scontemporaries, Mannerists over whom he had a very stronginfluence -- they even say Michelangelo provided the originaldrawing from which Pontormo painted his amorous Venus andCupid. Off the end of the left wing is a long 19th-century hallcrowded wall-to-wall and stacked floor-to-ceiling with plastercasts of hundreds of sculptures and busts -- the Accademia,after all, is what it sounds like: an academy for budding youngartists, founded in 1784 as an offshoot of the Academy of ArtDesign that dates from Michelangelo's time (1565). SeeingDavid -- The wait to get in to see David can be up to an hour ifyou didn't reserve ahead. Try getting there before the museumopens in the morning or an hour or two before closing time. ©Frommer's


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contact:tel: 055-284-944fax: +39 055 234 6286http://www.discovertuscany.com/florence/churches/orsanmichele.html

location:Via Arte della Lana 1Florence 50122

hours:Church open erratic hours(though never open duringriposo). Museum daily9-9:45am, 10-10:45am, and11-11:45am (plus Sat-Sun1-1:45pm)

2 Orsanmichele

DESCRIPTION: This tall structure halfway down Via deiCalzaiuoli looks more like a Gothic warehouse than a church-- which is exactly what it was, built as a granary/grain marketin 1337. After a miraculous image of the Madonna appearedon a column inside, however, the lower level was turned intoa chapel. The city's merchant guilds each undertook the taskof decorating one of the outside nichelike Gothic tabernaclesaround the lower level with a statue of their guild's patronsaint. Masters such as Ghiberti, Donatello, Verrocchio, andGiambologna all cast or carved masterpieces to set here. Since1984, these have been removed and are being replaced bycasts as the originals are slowly cleaned and exhibited up onthe second story. Unfortunately, the church now keeps erratichours due to a lack of personnel, so there are no set openinghours; however, you may get lucky and find the doors thrownopen when you pass by (or, though this may take even moreluck, someone might actually answer the phone number belowand give you details on when it will next open). Since it's prettynifty, and there's a chance you'll be able to pop in, I'll go aheadand describe it all. In the chapel's dark interior (emerged in1999 from a long restoration and entered around the "back"side on Via dell Arte della Lana) are recently restored 14th- to16th-century paintings by the likes of Lorenzo di Credi and IlPoppi. The elaborate Gothic Tabernacle (1349-59) by AndreaOrcagna looks something like a miniature church, coveredwith statuettes, enamels, inset colored marbles and glass,and reliefs. It protects a luminous 1348 Madonna and Childpainted by Giotto's student Bernardo Daddi. The prominentstatue of the Madonna, Child, and St. Anne to its left is byFrancesco da Sangallo (1522). Across Via dell'Arte della Lanafrom the Orsanmichele's main entrance is the 1308 Palazzodell'Arte della Lana. This Gothic palace was home to medievalFlorence's most powerful body, the guild of wool merchants,which employed about one-third of Florence in the 13th and14th centuries. Up the stairs inside you can cross over thehanging walkway to the first floor (American second floor) ofOrsanmichele. These are the old granary rooms, now housinga museum of the statues that once surrounded the exterior.A few are still undergoing restoration, but eight of the originalsculptures are here, well labeled, including Donatello's marbleSt. Mark (1411-13); Ghiberti's bronze St. John the Baptist(1413-16), the first life-size bronze of the Renaissance; andVerrocchio's Incredulity of St. Thomas (1473-83). This museum,too, does not always adhere to its posted hours, as those aredependent on someone being around to honor them. Still, it's atleast worth a try. © Frommer's

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contact:tel: +39 055 29 4553fax: +39 055 26 4353http://www.ristorantelorenzaccio.com

location:piazza della Signoria 32Florence 50122

3 Lorenzaccio (Il)

DESCRIPTION: The specialties consist of the wood-burningoven pizza presented to you hot right out of the brick oven. Another favorite is the Calzone which is as large asyour head, literally. It is an enticing adventure in yourmouth with so much mozzarella and ricotta. The PizzaLorenzaccio created by my friend, Michelangelo, topped withthe famous prosciutto crudo, sun-dried tomatoes, arugala,black olives, mozzarella. By the same name but aninsalata(salad), Insalata Lorenzaccio is another favorite,consisting of prosciutto of parma, fresh tomatoes, mouth-watering mozzarella, black olives and lettuce of course. It really is refreshing and full of flavor. Perfect for ahot summer day. Topping it with fresh olive oil and redwine vinegar, I wouldn't have it any other way. ©NileGuide

Katie Greenaway

contact:tel: 055-238-8651fax: +39 055 238 8694http://www.uffizi.firenze.it

location:Piazzale degli Uffizi 6Florence 50122

hours:Tues-Sun 8:15am-7pm. Ticketwindow closes 45 min. beforemuseum

4 Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi Galleries)

DESCRIPTION: The Uffizi is one of the world's great museums, and thesingle best introduction to Renaissance painting, with works by Giotto,Masaccio, Paolo Uccello, Sandro Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Perugino,Michelangelo, Raphael Sanzio, Titian, Caravaggio, and the list goeson. The museum is deceptively small. What looks like a small stretch ofgallery space can easily gobble up half a day -- many rooms suffer thefate of containing nothing but masterpieces. Know before you go that theUffizi regularly shuts down rooms for crowd-control reasons -- especiallyin summer, when the bulk of the annual 1.5 million visitors stampedesthe place. Of the more than 3,100 artworks in the museum's archives,only about 1,700 are on exhibit. The painting gallery is housed in thestructure built to serve as the offices (uffizi is Florentine dialect for uffici,or "offices") of the Medici, commissioned by Cosimo I from Giorgio Vasariin 1560 -- perhaps his greatest architectural work. The painting gallerywas started by Cosimo I as well and is now housed in the second-floorrooms that open off a long hall lined with ancient statues and frescoedwith grotesques. Tips for Seeing the Uffizi -- If you have the time, maketwo trips to the museum. On your first, concentrate on the first dozen orso rooms and pop by the Greatest Hits of the 16th Century, with worksby Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael, and Titian. Return later for a briefrecap and continue with the rest of the gallery. Be aware that the gift shopat the end of the galleries closes 20 minutes before the museum. You canvisit it without reentering the museum at any time; if you plan to stay inthe collections until closing, go down to the shop earlier during your visitand get the guards' attention before you pass through the exit turnstile,so they'll know you're just popping out to buy a few postcards and willrecognize you when you ask to be let back in. © Frommer's

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contact:tel: 39 55 239 8132fax: +39 055 239 8132http://www.levolpieluva.com/

location:Piazza de Rossi, 1rFlorence 50123

hours:Monday to Saturday from11:00 AM to 09:00 PM

5 Volpe e l'Uva (Le)

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:"I suggest taking advantage of this opportunity to browsethe wide range of delectable collection of wines such as aclassic Chiant,a stunning Brunello, Prosecco and the famousVin Santo."

DESCRIPTION: This little enoteca off the beaten path is just the place forpeople looking to get away from those crowded Piazze(squares). Itis located in a tiny piazza called Piazza dei Rossi. It has a homeyfeeling and welcoming atmosphere. The staff is very helpful and kind. Ifyou don't know what you type of wine to try, they will suggest somethingperfect for you. And to munch on from a long morning of walking, thereis an array of cheese plates, salumi, and caprese. In addition, there aretypical panini and schiachiatte made with fresh ingredients with superbflavor to add to the experience. They provide a hearty list of winesfrom small producers throughout Italy. You will find wines in this shop thatyou won't find anywhere else in Florence.© NileGuide

Photo courtesy of Volpee l'Uva (Le)

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DAY NOTE: I bet you are wondering why I didn't put the Duomo as the first to see. It is a glorious site but since it is in the center, you canvisit the inside and climb the dome whenever it feels right. The Museo dell Opera del Duomo is located right behind the church so it isa great second stop on the cobblestones of Florence. Much of the original statues and artwork from the Duomo are stored there. For anice mid-morning snack or lunch, enjoy Enoteca Coquinarius. It is small, cozy and full of delicious wine.

contact:tel: 055-230-2885http://www.duomofirenze.it/index-eng.htm

location:Piazza del DuomoFlorence 53100

hours:Church Mon-Wed andFri 10am-5pm; Thurs10am-3:30pm; 1st Sat ofmonth 10am-3:30pm, otherSat 10am-4:45pm; Sun1:30-4:30pm. Free toursevery 40 min. daily, 10:30am-noon and 3-4:20pm. CupolaMon-Fri 8:30am-6:20pm;Sat 8:30am-5pm (1st Sat ofmonth to 3:20pm)

1 Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria deiFiori)

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Head to the top of the Dome for some fantastic views ofFlorence.

DESCRIPTION: For centuries, people have commented that Florence'scathedral is turned inside out, its exterior boasting Brunelleschi's famousdome, Giotto's bell tower, and a festive cladding of white, green, and pinkmarble, but its interior left spare, almost barren. By the late 13th century,Florence was feeling peevish: Its archrivals Siena and Pisa sported hugenew Duomos filled with art while it was saddled with the tiny 5th- or 6th-century Santa Reparata as a cathedral. So, in 1296, the city hired Arnolfodi Cambio to design a new Duomo, and he began raising the facadeand the first few bays before his death in 1302. Work continued underthe auspices of the Wool Guild and architects Giotto di Bondone (whoconcentrated on the bell tower) and Francesco Talenti (who finished upto the drum of the dome and in the process greatly enlarged Arnolfo'soriginal plan). The facade we see today is a neo-Gothic compositedesigned by Emilio de Fabris and built from 1871 to 1887 (for its story,see the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo). The Duomo's most distinctivefeature is its enormous dome [STSTST], which dominates the skyline

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and is a symbol of Florence itself. The raising of this dome, the largest inthe world in its time, was no mean architectural feat, tackled admirably byFilippo Brunelleschi between 1420 and 1436. You can climb up betweenthe two shells of the cupola for one of the classic panoramas acrossthe city. At the base of the dome, just above the drum, Baccio d'Agnolobegan adding a balcony in 1507. One of the eight sides was finished by1515, when someone asked Michelangelo -- whose artistic opinion wasby this time taken as cardinal law -- what he thought of it. The masterreportedly scoffed, "It looks like a cricket cage." Work was immediatelyhalted, and to this day the other seven sides remain rough brick. TheDuomo was actually built around Santa Reparata so it could remain inbusiness during construction. For more than 70 years, Florentines enteredtheir old church through the free-standing facade of the new one, but in1370 the original was torn down when the bulk of the Duomo -- except thedome -- was finished. Ever the fiscal conservatives, Florentines startedclamoring to see some art as soon as the new facade's front door wascompleted in the early 1300s -- to be sure their investment would bemore beautiful than rival cathedrals. Gaddo Gaddi was commissioned tomosaic an Enthronement of Mary in the lunette above the inside of themain door, and the people were satisfied. The stained-glass windows setin the facade were designed by Lorenzo Ghiberti, and Paolo Uccello, apainter obsessed by the newly developed perspective, frescoed the hugehora italica clock with its four heads of Prophets in 1443. At a right-aislepier are steps leading down to the excavations of the old Santa Reparata.In 1972, a tomb slab inscribed with the name Filippo Brunelleschi wasdiscovered there (visible through a gate). Unless you're interested in theremains of some ancient Roman houses and parts of the paleo-Christianmosaics from Santa Reparata's floor, the 3€ ($3.90) admission isn't worthit. Against the left-aisle wall are the only frescoes besides the dome inthe Duomo. The earlier one to the right is the greenish Memorial to SirJohn Hawkwood (1436), an English condottiere (mercenary commander)whose name the Florentines mangled to Giovanni Acuto when they hiredhim to rough up their enemies. Before he died, or so the story goes, themercenary asked to have a bronze statue of himself riding his chargerto be raised in his honor. Florence solemnly promised to do so, but, intypical tightwad style, after Hawkwood's death the city hired the master ofperspective and illusion, Paolo Uccello, to paint an equestrian monumentinstead -- much cheaper than casting a statue in bronze. Andrea delCastagno copied this painting-as-equestrian-statue idea 20 years laterwhen he frescoed a Memorial to Niccolò da Tolentino next to Uccello'swork. Near the end of the left aisle is Domenico di Michelino's DanteExplaining the Divine Comedy (1465). In the back left corner of thesanctuary is the New Sacristy. Lorenzo de' Medici was attending Massin the Duomo one April day in 1478 with his brother Giuliano when theywere attacked in the infamous Pazzi Conspiracy. The conspirators, eggedon by the pope and led by a member of the Pazzi family, old rivals of theMedici, fell on the brothers at the ringing of the sanctuary bell. Giulianowas murdered on the spot -- his body rent with 19 wounds -- but Lorenzovaulted over the altar rail and sprinted for safety into the New Sacristy,slamming the bronze doors behind him. Those doors were cast from 1446to 1467 by Luca della Robbia, his only significant work in the medium.Earlier, Luca had provided a lunette of the Resurrection (1442) in glazedterra cotta over the door, as well as the lunette Ascension over the southsacristy door. The interior of the New Sacristy is filled with beautifullyinlaid wood cabinet doors. The frescoes on the interior of the domewere designed by Giorgio Vasari but painted mostly by his less-talentedstudent Federico Zuccari by 1579. The frescoes were subjected to athorough cleaning completed in 1996, which many people saw as a wasteof restoration lire when so many more important works throughout the


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city were waiting to be salvaged. The scrubbing did, however, bring outZuccari's only saving point -- his innovative color palette. © Frommer's

contact:tel: 055-230-2885fax: +39 055 230 2898www.operaduomo.firenze.it

location:Piazza del Duomo 9Florence 50122

hours:Mon-Sat 9am-7:30pm; Sun9am-2pm; last admission 30min. before close

2 Museo dell'Opera del Duomo(Duomo Works Museum)

DESCRIPTION: This museum exists mainly to house thesculptures removed from the niches and doors of the Duomogroup for restoration and preservation from the elements.The dusty old museum was completely rearranged from 1998to 2000. The courtyard has now been enclosed to show off-- under natural daylight, as they should be seen -- LorenzoGhiberti's original gilded bronze panels from the Baptistery'sGates of Paradise, which are being displayed as they'reslowly restored. Ghiberti devoted 27 years to this project(1425-52), and you can now admire up close his masterpieceof schiacciato (squished) relief -- using the Donatello techniqueof almost sketching in perspective to create the illusionof depth in low relief. On the way up the stairs, you passMichelangelo's Pietà (1548-55), his second and penultimatetake on the subject, which the sculptor probably had in mindfor his own tomb. The face of Nicodemus is a self-portrait, andMichelangelo most likely intended to leave much of the statuegroup only roughly carved, just as we see it. Art historiansinform us that the polished figure of Mary Magdalene on theleft was finished by one of Michelangelo's students, whilestorytellers relate that part of the considerable damage to thegroup was inflicted by the master himself when, in a momentof rage and frustration, he took a hammer to it. The top floor ofthe museum houses the Prophets carved for the bell tower,the most noted of which are the remarkably expressive figurescarved by Donatello: the drooping aged face of the BeardlessProphet; the sad fixed gaze of Jeremiah; and the misshapenferocity of the bald Habakkuk (known to Florentines as LoZuccone -- pumpkin head). Mounted on the walls aboveare two putty-encrusted marble cantorie (choir lofts). Theslightly earlier one (1431) on the entrance wall is by Lucadella Robbia. His panels (the originals now displayed at eyelevel, with plaster casts set in the actual frame above) are inperfect early Renaissance harmony, both within themselvesand with each other, and they show della Robbia's mastery ofcreating great depth within a shallow piece of stone. Across theroom, Donatello's cantoria (1433-38) takes off in a new artisticdirection as his singing cherubs literally break through theboundaries of the "panels" to leap and race around the entirecantoria behind the mosaicked columns. The room off the rightstars one of Donatello's more morbidly fascinating sculptures,a late work in polychrome wood of The Magdalene (1453-55),emaciated and veritably dripping with penitence. The new exitcorridor leading off from the Prophets room houses some of themachines used to build the cathedral dome, Brunelleschi'sdeath mask as a grisly reminder of its architect, and thewooden model proposals for the cupola's drum and for thefacade. The original Gothic facade was destroyed in 1587 tomake room for one done in High Renaissance style, but thepatron behind the work -- Grand Duke Francesco de' Medici-- died before he could choose from among the submissions

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by the likes of Giambologna and Bernardo Buontalenti. TheDuomo remained faceless until purses of the 18th century,heavy with money and relentless bad taste, gave it the neo-Gothic facade we see today. © Frommer's

contact:tel: 39 55 230 2153

location:Via delle Oche, 15rFlorence 50123

hours:M-Sa 10a-11p

3 Bar-Enoteca Coquinarius

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:"I suggest stopping in for a nice early morning snack ataround 11:30 or waiting until the lunch crowd has left andarrive around 3:00 and enjoy the solitude with your cheesesand crostini."

DESCRIPTION: It is a room full of warmth and the scents of a seasonalmenu. Coquinarius has a small menu of different types ofbruschette for antipasti, tasty meats and fish. Salads are a forte here;creative choices include toppings such as sun-dried tomatoes, eggplant,sunflower seeds, zucchini flowers or pear. This elegant and strikingenoteca has a wide range of wines from Italy, California, Argentina,Austria and Chile. The camerieri(waitstaff) are very kind and full oflife. It is a great place to sit for the afternoon, bring a book, enjoythe chiacchiere(chatter) of the other patrons, or get lost in the glass ofwine. Wines are served by the glass or bottle in this relaxed,inexpensive experience of true Italian style.© NileGuide

Katie Greenaway

location:Piazza Del Mercato CentraleFlorence Tuscany 50123

4 Mercato Centrale

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:"Eat at the small restaurants inside, you won't be disappointed."

DESCRIPTION: Mercato Centrale built in 1874 and is one of the largest indoor markets inItaly. Located in the zone of San Lorenzo, tourist center of Florence, people seem to justpass through the San Lorenzo market instead of stepping inside the Mercato Centrale. With2 floors of fresh meat, cheese and restaurants of the delicious kind, you must stop by and see whatcatches your eye. Mercato Centrale is open from 7am-2pm everyday except Sunday. A busy market inside in the morning after 2pm the San Lorenzo market outside takes over and isthriving with tourists and local vendors.

contact:tel: 39 55 214756

location:via della Spada 27Florence 50123

hours:Mo to Su from 12:30 PMto 02:30 PM,Mo to Su from07:30 PM to 10:30 PM

5 Trattoria Marione

DESCRIPTION: Trattoria Marione is an authentic old style trattoria in the heart of Florence, just offthe elegant via Tornabuoni. It is always crowded and quite often there is a line out the door. Localhome style cooking is the trademark of the place, with typical dishes such as Crostini Toscani. Theyspecialize in traditional bread soups like Ribollita and Pappa al Pomodoro, but the Farro soup (anantique grain popular in the Tuscan countryside) and classic mixed boiled and roasted meats arealso particularly tasty. Friendly service and great food at reasonable prices! © wcities.com


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DAY NOTE: Grom is by far the best gelato you can taste in Florence. Take it with you on your walk towards San Lorenzo. While outsidethere is a bustling market, inside the church you will find many tombs of the famous Medici family. Also attached to the church is theCappella dei Medici. The tombs were sculpted by Michelangelo and a grand sight to see. Ponte Vecchio being the oldest bridge inFlorence, welcomes it's visitors to window shop and step in to the ancient gold and silver shops. For lunch, stop at Yellow Bar. It is agreat afternoon sit for a pizza or a deliciously filling calzone. For an evening activity, take a walk before 7pm to the Loggia del MercatoNuovo. This is a smaller more secluded market that is located close to Piazza della Signoria. Pass over the Ponte Vecchio to theOltrarno, and head towards Santo Spirito. There is where one of the best pizzeria's are located. Borgo Antico is always crowded and theatmosphere is quite calm and serene in Piazza Santo Spirto.

contact:tel: 055-216-634http://www.sanlorenzo.firenze.it/

location:piazza di San LorenzoFlorence 50123

hours:Church Mon-Sat 10am-5pm.Old Sacristy (usually) Sept-July Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat10-11:45am; Tues and Thurs4-5:45pm. Laurentian LibraryMon-Sat 9am-1pm

1 San Lorenzo

DESCRIPTION: A rough brick anti-facade and theundistinguished stony bulk of a building surrounded by thestalls of the leather market hide what is most likely the oldestchurch in Florence, founded in A.D. 393. San Lorenzo was thecity's cathedral until the bishop's seat moved to Santa Reparata(later to become the Duomo) in the 7th century. More important,it was the Medici family's parish church, and as those famousbankers began to accumulate their vast fortune, they starteda tradition of lavishing it on this church that lasted until theclan died out in the 18th century. Visiting the entire churchcomplex at once is tricky: Though interconnected, the churchproper, the Old Sacristy, and the Laurentian Library havedifferent open hours. The Medici tombs, listed separately below,have a separate entrance around the back of the church andhave still different hours. The first thing Giovanni di Bicci de'

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Medici, founder of the family fortune, did for the church was hireBrunelleschi to tune up the interior, rebuilding according to thearchitect's plans in 1426. At the end of the aisle is a Desiderioda Settignano marble tabernacle that's a mastery of schiacciatorelief and carefully incised perspective. Across the aisle isone of the two bronze 1460 pulpits -- the other is across thenave -- that were Donatello's last works. His patron and thefirst great consolidator of Medici power, which at this earlystage still showed great concern for protecting the interests ofthe people, was Cosimo il Vecchio, Lorenzo the Magnificent'sgrandfather. Cosimo, whose wise behind-the-scenes rulemade him popular with the Florentines, died in 1464 and isburied in front of the high altar. The plaque marking the spotis simply inscribed PATER PATRIE -- father of his homeland.Off the left transept is the Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy),one of Brunelleschi's purest pieces of early Renaissancearchitecture. In the center of the chapel Cosimo il Vecchio'sparents, Giovanni di Bicci de' Medici and his wife, PiccardaBueri, rest in peace. On the wall of the left aisle is Bronzino'shuge fresco of the Martyrdom of San Lorenzo. The 3rd-century namesake saint of this church, San Lorenzo was a flintyearly Christian and the treasurer of the Roman church. Whencommanded by the Romans to hand over the church's wealth,Lorenzo appeared before Emperor Valerian's prefect with"thousands" of sick, poor, and crippled people saying "Here isall the church's treasure." The Romans weren't amused anddecided to martyr him on a gridiron over hot coals. Feisty tothe last, at one point while Lorenzo lay there roasting he calledout to his tormentors through gritted teeth, "Turn me over,I'm done on this side." Near this fresco is an entrance to thecloister and just inside it a stairwell to the right leading up to theBiblioteca Laurenziana (Laurentian Library), which can alsobe entered admission free without going through -- and payingfor -- the church (the separate entrance is just to the left of thechurch's main doors). Michelangelo designed this library in1524 to house the Medici's manuscript collection, and it standsas one of the most brilliant works of Mannerist architecture.The vestibule is a whacked-out riff on the Renaissance, allpietra serena and white plaster walls like a good Brunelleschipiece, but turned inside out. There are phony piers running intoeach other in the corners, pilaster strips that support nothing,and brackets that exist for no reason. On the whole, however,it manages to remain remarkably coherent. Its star featureis a pietra serena flight of curving stairs flowing out from theentrance to the reading room. This actual library part, however-- filled with intricately carved wood and handsomely illuminatedmanuscripts -- was closed indefinitely in 1999 until "urgentmaintenance" is completed. © Frommer's


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contact:http://www.grom.it/pages/dove_firenze.htm

location:Via del Campanile angolo viadelle OcheFlorence

2 Grom

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Wait in the line, it is worth the wait!

DESCRIPTION: Grom is a gelateria that is frequented by not only touristsbut Florentines as well. It has their own specific gusti (flavors)that really entice the new traveler. Founded in 2003 in Torino, itgrew very successful and famous among the Italians. In fact, in2007 Grom opened in New York it being the first city abroad to take onthis delicious gelato. In Florence, there is constantly a line runningalong side the tiny shop near the Duomo. © NileGuide

Katie Greenaway

location:Ponte VecchioFlorence 50125

3 Ponte Vecchio

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:"The jewelry is superb and really expensive onthe Ponte Vecchio. Grab your camera and catchthe Tuscan Hills alive and rolling beyond the citycenter."

DESCRIPTION: You can't miss the most recognizable landmarkof Florence, the Ponte Vecchio. Constructed in 1345,the Ponte Vecchio is the oldest bridge still standing in Florence,hence the name. The multicolored structure bridgewas first home to butcher shops. As the noble bankerswould cross the Arno river to their offices, there was a rancidsmell of pigs blood and rotted meat which extremely offendedthem. In an effort to improve the area, the Medicistepped in and ordered the lower class shopkeepers outand moved goldsmiths and diamond-cutters in. PonteVecchio is the only bridge that escaped the bombing by theGermans in WWII. Today, now a pedestrian bridge, theshops shimmer and shine with necklaces, rings and charmsof the most expensive kind. Tourists can enjoy an earlymorning walk over the bridge before the shops open or atsunset where lovers stare at the horizon as musicians sing andbe merry.© NileGuide

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contact:tel: 39 55 21 1766

location:Via del Proconsolo, 39rFlorence 50122

hours:W-Su 12p-1a

4 Yellow Bar

DESCRIPTION: Since the early 1970s, this bar has kept oneunchanging feature: the nearly exclusively young customerswho go there. It is the perfect place for any time of day and itcaters for all tastes and all budgets. You can spend an eveningwith your friends here in a chaotic but friendly atmosphere.The place's informality is accentuated by its modern look,long opening hours and flexible menu. They serve homemadetagliolini or spaghetti with prawns, Gorgonzola or asparagus.

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There are also the classic hamburgers, salads and tasty pizzas.Wide choice of international beers and drinks. © wcities.com

location:via Porta RossaFlorence 50122

5 Loggia del Mercato Nuovo

DESCRIPTION: Loggia del Mercato Nuovo or Loggia delPorcellino, was built in the middle of the 16th century. Walk a few steps towards the Duomo, you will find Piazza dellaRepubblica and following the crowds towards the Arno river, thePonte Vecchio. The stalls used to sell more of silk andluxury goods, but today all you will find is leather bags, coatsand tourist souvenirs. The main focus is the Fontana delPorcellino, which was by Pietro Tacca in the 16th century, theoriginal wild boar sits in the Palazzo Pitti. If you rub thenose of the boar it is said you will receive good fortune, after ofcourse leaving a coin in the mouth of the boar as well. Superstion implies that the wish will be granted if the offeringtumbles through the grate whence the water flows. Check out the Loggia at night as well. Without the stalls,it is somewhat peaceful.© NileGuide

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contact:tel: +39 055 21 0437http://www.borgoanticofirenze.com/

location:Piazza Santo Spirito 6rFlorence FI 50125

6 Borgo Antico

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Order the pizza with zucchini, YUM!

DESCRIPTION: Borgo Antico is constantly packed with a relatively youngcrowd. Its location, opposite Santo Spirito church, makes it particularlyenchanting. In summer, customers can eat in the outdoor cafe. Thegigantic dishes that are offered include vegetable and fish starters andexcellent meats with salad and tomatoes. It also offers good pizzaand great homemade desserts. You can also get the pizzas togo. Just say "porta via" and you are set to go.© NileGuide

Photo courtesy ofRistorante Borgo Antico

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contact:tel: 055-215-918http://giubileo.comune.fi.it/musei/smnovella/welcome.html

location:piazza Santa Maria NovellaFlorence 50123

hours:Mon-Thurs and Sat 9am-5pm;Fri and Sun 1-5pm

1 Santa Maria Novella

DESCRIPTION: Of all Florence's major churches, the home of theDominicans is the only one with an original facade that matches itsera of greatest importance. The lower Romanesque half was started inthe 14th century by architect Fra' Jacopo Talenti, who had just finishedbuilding the church itself (started in 1246). Leon Battista Alberti finishedthe facade, adding a classically inspired Renaissance top that not onlywent seamlessly with the lower half but also created a Cartesian plane ofperfect geometry. The church's interior underwent a massive restorationin the late 1990s, returning Giotto's restored Crucifix to pride of place,hanging in the nave's center -- and becoming the first church in Florenceto charge admission. Against the second pillar on the left of the nave isthe pulpit from which Galileo was denounced for his heretical theory thatEarth revolved around the sun. Just past the pulpit, on the left wall, isMasaccio's Trinità (ca. 1428), the first painting ever to use perfect linearmathematical perspective. Florentine citizens and artists flooded in to seethe fresco when it was unveiled, many remarking in awe that the cofferedceiling seemed to punch a hole back into space, creating a chapel out ofa flat wall. The transept is filled with spectacularly frescoed chapels. Thesanctuary behind the main altar was frescoed after 1485 by DomenicoGhirlandaio with the help of his assistants and apprentices, probablyincluding a very young Michelangelo. The left wall is covered with a cycleon The Life of the Virgin and the right wall with the Life of St. John theBaptist. The works have a highly polished decorative quality and are lessbiblical stories than snapshots of the era's fashions and personages, fullof portraits of the Tornabuoni family who commissioned them. Restorationworkers in 2005 found a fresco hidden behind one of the lesser-knownworks here -- by 16th-century Veronese painter Jacopo Ligozzi -- and themystery of who created it is the talk of local art circles. As of the printingof this edition, it remains unknown. The Cappella Gondi to the left ofthe high altar contains the Crucifix carved by Brunelleschi to show hisbuddy Donatello how it should be done. At the end of the left transept isa different Cappella Strozzi, covered with restored frescoes (1357) byNardo di Cione, early medieval casts of thousands where the saved millabout Paradise on the left and the damned stew in a Dantean inferno onthe right. © Frommer's

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contact:tel: 055-238-8608

location:Piazza San Marco 3Florence Florence 50121

hours:Mon-Fri 8:30am-1:50pm; Sat-Sun 8:15am-7pm

2 San Marco Church

DESCRIPTION: In 1437, Cosimo de' Medici il Vecchio, grandfather ofLorenzo the Magnificent, had Michelozzo convert a medieval monasteryhere into a new home for the Dominicans, in which Cosimo also foundedEurope's first public library. From 1491 until he was burned at the stakeon Piazza della Signoria in 1498, this was the home base of puritanicalpreacher Girolamo Savonarola. The monastery's most famous friar,though, was early Renaissance painter Fra' Angelico, and he left manyof his finest works, devotional images painted with the technical skill andminute detail of a miniaturist or an illuminator but on altarpiece scale.While his works tended to be transcendently spiritual, Angelico wasalso prone to filling them with earthly details with which any peasant orstonemason could identify. The museum rooms are entered off a pretty

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cloister. The old Pilgrim's Hospice has been converted into a Fra' (Beato)Angelico Gallery, full of altarpieces and painted panels. Also off thecloister is the Reffetorio Grande (Great Refectory), with 16th- and17th-century paintings, and the Sala del Capitolo (Chapter House),frescoed from 1441 to 1442 with a huge Crucifixion by Fra' Angelicoand his assistants. The door next to this leads past the staircase up tothe Dormitory to the Sala del Cenacolo (Small Refectory), with a longfresco of the Last Supper by Domenico Ghirlandaio. The Dormitorio(Dormitory) of cells where the monks lived is one of Fra' Angelico'smasterpieces and perhaps his most famous cycle of frescoes. In additionto the renowned Annunciation at the top of the stairs to the monks'rooms, Angelico painted the cells themselves with simple works to aidhis fellow friars in their meditations. One of these almost anticipatessurrealism -- a flagellation where disembodied hands strike at Christ's faceand a rod descends on him from the blue-green background. Angelico'sassistants carried out the repetitious Crucifixion scenes in many of thecells. At the end of one of the corridors is the suite of cells occupied bySavonarola when he was here prior. In the first are two famous portraitsof him by his devout follower and talented painter Fra' Bartolomeo, alongwith an anonymous 16th-century painting of Savonarola Burned at theStake on Piazza della Signoria. The Biblioteca (Library) off the corridorto the right of the stairs was designed by Michelozzo in 1441 and containsbeautifully illuminated choir books. © Frommer's

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Local InfoFlorence is full of culture to offer the newtraveler. The art and architecture is whatsets Florence apart from the other cities inItaly. From theDuomo to thePonte VecchiotoSan Miniato, there is so much to seeand explore. The wonderment of Florenceflows over its visitors bringing smiles to theirfaces. Each neighborhood has somethingto show off as well. Santa Croce holdsthe leather shops as it's trademark. SanFrediano has the artisan shops that havebeen operating for centuries. Campo diMarte expresses anything and everythingabout Viola, the color of the Fiorentinafootball(soccer) team. The markets area token viewpoint of how the locals live. There are markets all over the city inevery neighborhood. Each having theirown personality and locals that have beencoming for many years. The one thingthat is great about Florence is that youcan easily get lost and end up finding atreasure. There are always little streets thatnobody ever sees and shops that are kept asecret. Explore the city because there is somuch more to see than the Ponte Vecchio. Enjoy the traditions of the Fiorentini, suchas having a caffe at the bar around 11amwhen Piazza Repubblica is bustling. OnSundays, take a stroll through the centerand window shop. On Saturday, shopat the local markets and enjoy chatterof Italian in your ear. Florence's mainattractions consists of the Duomo, PonteVecchio and theUffizi Gallery. Duringthe high season these places are filledwith visitors and sometimes it takes awhile to see. Plan ahead and enjoy theseattractions in a calm and timely matter sonot to rush your visit.

Florence is known for it's secrets and littletreasures that are found throughout thecity. For example, have you ever noticedthe tiny wine doors in the walls of thePalazzo's? These wine doors were madefor the rich to sell their wine to the peasantson the streets of Florence. When the localwealthy families had excess wine fromthe harvest they would sell it out of thesewindows. What you would do is knock onthe door and slide the money in as theyopened it. Then the person behind the doorwill then fill a glass of wine to go. Someof the windows around the center still arein it's authentic wooden structure others

have been boarded up. Another fact aboutFlorence, if you look around in the centerof Florence, at all the big Palazzo's andsmaller buildings as well. You will noticesome of the windows that are missing. The whole frame of the window is there butthe window is missing. Italians were taxedhigher when they had so many windows. So they filled in each window that theydidn't want to pay an extra tax on.

The most famous landmarks in Florenceare the Ponte Vecchio(Old Bridge), IlDuomo and The Uffizi Gallery. The PonteVecchio is the oldest bridge in Florence,that currently has gold and silver shopaligning the bridge. Previously housingbutchers, the Ponte Vecchio holds onto thetradition of gold and silver shops making ita very posh street to purchase your goodson. Il Duomo(Santa Maria del Fiore) iswhat brings flocks of people to Florenceevery year. The gothic style church wasbegun in 1296 with the design from Arnolfodi Cambio and the dome was completed in1436 by Filippo Brunelleschi. The churchhas one of Giorgio Vasari's famous frescowhich covers the inside of the dome. The Uffizi Gallery is yet another attractionmost visitors look to visit when arriving inFlorence. From Da Vinci to Caravaggio,you have a pick of the great works of theRenaissance period.

San Giovanni(Duomo)

San Giovanni takes its name from SanGiovanni Battista(St John the Baptist),patron saint of Florence, in whosehonor the Baptistery was built. Thehistoric city center(centro storico) ismost representative of Florence. Thelayout of the district follows a roadsystem created by the Romans(knownas thecardus anddecumanus system).In thecentro storico, you will see theenormous, imposing structure of thecathedral Santa Maria del Fiore, referred tomostly commonly as the Duomo(from theLatindomus, meaning house of God), withits cupola designed by Filippo Brunelleschi,a beautiful dome that adds splendor to thecity skyline. The city has also preservedits medieval network of streets, lined withregular, geometric Renaissance palacessuch as the Palazzo Strozzi and PalazzoMedici-Riccardi, which once belonged toFlorence's powerful, oligarchic families.Florence is divided into five districts and

the center is divided into four sections(SanGiovanni, Santa Croce, Santa MariaNovella and Santo Spirito). The universityand the Tribunale di Firenze(which ishoused in the Complesso di San FilippoNeri) are also in this district.

Santa Maria Novella

Named after the Santa Maria NovellaBasilica- a Dominican basilica andimportant cultural center during the MiddleAges, the district of Santa Maria Novellacovers the area west of the train stationwhere a majority of affordable hotels andthe city's largest park is located. The trainstation of the same name(designed in1932 by the young architect GiovanniMichelucci) is also situated nearby. Notfar from the station is the Fortezza daBasso, a former stronghold of the city whichis now used as an important center forconferences, conventions and exhibitions.The zone is also home to the Parco delleCascine, one of the city's green oases. Inthis district also lies exclusive boutiquesthat are concentrated in a few of themost well-known streets, such as via de'Tornabuoni and via della Vigna Nuova. Viade' Tornabuoni is famous for being hometo some of Italy's most prestigious designerboutiques e.g. Versace and the FlorentineSalvatore Ferragamo.

Santa Croce

Santa Croce is named after Santa Crocechurch, a medieval Franciscan basilica.The National Central Library(BibliotecaNazionale Centrale di Firenze) is alsolocated here.

Santo Spirito(Oltrarno)

The entire stretch of the side of the riveropposite the majority of the city's touristattractions, the Oltrarno is home to manylocals, small eateries and amazing touristsights such as San Frediano to SanNiccolò. At its heart is probably one of themost incredible Renaissance churches andpiazzas: the Piazza Santo Spirito, whichhas retained much of its historic charmand is filled with workshops of the city'straditional artisans. This piazza is the placefor parties on summer evenings, bringingtogether young Florentines and foreigners,many of whom live in this area. ThePalazzo Pitti with its old Medicean gardenand the Boboli Garden, are both in Oltrarno.The famous Piazzale Michelangelo(with

Florence Snapshot continued

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its panoramic view) is also in this district.From here, it is possible to see one of thefew remaining stretches of medieval wallaround the Belvedere that was spared fromdemolition in the 19th Century. Included inthis is the lovely medieval gate of the PortaRomana.

Campo di Marte& Fiesole

The Campo di Marte is located outside ofwhat used to the be the medieval city walland is home to many historical buildingsdating back to the early 20th Century, aswell as to many modern stone and cementapartment blocks which were built afterWorld War Two. There are also numeroussports venues, athletic facilities and theStadio Artemio Franchi, Fiesole, and theBellariva zone are close by; these areswathes of Piagentina countryside thatalways induced feelings of nostalgia inTuscan painters.

Gavinana& Galluzzo

Gavinana and Galluzzo are south of theArno and lead to the well-known Chiantiwine region. On the southwestern sidelies Galluzzo, famous for its Carthusianmonastery.

Isolotto& Legnaia

Combining areas of the city that weredeveloped during the 1960s and 1970s(andare still expanding!), Isolotto and Legnaiaare home to commuters and enormousAmerican hotel chains. The Isolotto districtwas once the scene of various clashes andsocial unrest during the 1960s.

Rifredi

Rifredi in the northwestern part of the citywhere, by the 15th Century, the Medici hadalready constructed some of their manycountry villas, among which Villa di Careggi,the villas of Castello and La Petraia inthe Castello. In this district there are alsoseveral industrialized, residential zones,such as Novoli, Firenze Nova, Brozzi,Le Piagge and l'Olmatello. Brozzi, thezone is host to many Chinese and Africanimmigrants. The influx of immigrants meansthat even a city like Florence cannot liveforever in the past but must create a newmulti-ethnic history.© NileGuide

HistoryThe history of Florence stretches backas far as the 8th Century BCE when aprimitive settlement lived in the valley,close to the Arno."Florentia" is recordedas an official Roman colony in 59 BCEand was designed according to the typicalRoman road system, which can be seenin many Italian cities today. There are twoprincipal roads: thecardus descends fromthe Baptistery to Via Roma and continueson to Via Calimala, while thedecumanusstretches from via del Corso to via degliSpeziali until it reaches via degli Strozzi.The Forum(public meeting place andmarket) was built at the point where theroads meet, on what is now the Piazzadella Repubblica. During Roman rule,Florence was the most important city inRoman Tuscany.

Florentia was invaded by numerous tribesin the following centuries: Goths,"Silicone",Ostrogoths and Longobards. Manyinhabitants adopted Christianity at thetime of the Silicone, and the first churchesappeared outside the Roman walls ofFlorentia: San Lorenzo and Santa Felicitawere built during the 4th Century CE andcan be visited today.

Charlemagne's arrival put an end to thecolony's expansion. Buildings were stillconstructed however, and the Baptisterydates back to this time. The city flourishedin the 9th and 10th Centuries, a great dealof money was spent on the constructionof many religious buildings, e.g. theBadia Fiorentina. Many public works wereundertaken, including the building of the citywalls in 1078. Florentia was a cultural andeconomic success!

Florence's wealth and power grew atan enormous pace; a second set ofcity walls had to be built; the district ofOltrarno became part of the city andRomanesque-style architecture ruled(e.g.San Miniato and Santi Apostoli churches).Florentine craftsmen became involvedin textiles(beginning with the trading ofwool and silk), which lead to gradualurbanization. Political tension began torear its ugly head in the 13th Century astwo political factions(the Guelphs and theGhibellines) fought for power. At the endof the 13th Century, there was somethingof a cultural revolution. A major player inthis revolution was the architect Arnolfodi Cambio who designed the Palazzo dei

Priori(which became the Palazzo dellaSignoria a century later and then thePalazzo Vecchio) and also started workon the reconstruction of Santa Maria delFiore, which was completed in successivecenturies. Arnolfo also continued with theconstruction of the third and final set of citywalls.

The city was devastated by plague in 1348,and political conflicts were still rife. TheCiompi Revolt of 1378 occurred as a resultof the people's frustration—the poor reactedagainst their unjust governor. Meanwhile,Florentine merchants and bankers werealready working hard to increase theirwealth in order to attain power over thenobility.

Lorenzo de'Medici played an importantrole in Florence's history; he strengthenedthe political interests of the nobility, whilededicating himself to his love of the Artsand philosophy. The city underwent acultural rebirth. After Lorenzo's deathin 1492, the city came under the harsh,puritanical rule of the fanatical Dominicanfriar, Girolamo Savonarola, who waselected to the leadership of the Republic.He was so unpopular for his preachingsthat he was burned at the stake six yearslater by angry citizens. The leadership ofthe city was unstable for several yearsafter that with the arrival of French troopsunder King Charles VIII, but the de'Mediciclan regained power and Florence hadher first Duke in 1530, and then GrandDuke in 1569. The succession of the GrandDukes of the Medici family continueduntil the end of the 18th century, butFlorence gradually lost the central roleit had occupied in preceding centuries.The last heir of the Medici's handed overpower and all the family's riches to theHouse of Lorena, whose rule continueduntil 1859, when Florence was unitedwith the rest of Italy(which later becamethe Kingdom of Italy). Florence wasonly the capital of this kingdom for a fewyears(1865-1871) and the court transferredits official residence to the Palazzo Pitti.A lot of urban design and restructure tookplace during the 19th century, including theconstruction of embankments along theArno and piazzas in the centre of the newdistricts of Barbano and Mattonaia(whichare now Piazza dell'Indipendenza andPiazza D'Azeglio). The"arnolfiane" walland the Jewish Ghetto(which was situatedin the current location of the Piazza della


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Repubblica) demolished to make way for aseries of ring roads which were to lead tothe Piazzale Michelangelo and the Piazzadella Repubblica.

World War Two had a devastating effecton Florence. The city sustained manydamages, especially to its bridges and thearea inside the Ponte Vecchio. The flood of1966 further hindered the preservation ofvaluable Florentine treasures, resulting ina restoration process that will be on-goingwell into the 21st and 22nd Centuries.© NileGuide

Hotel InsightsItalians say that it will certainly take youmore than a day to drink in the beauty ofFlorence, you will need to stay for at least along or extended weekend. It is also true tosay that it can be a problem to find a roomin Florence, especially if you decide to visiton the spur of the moment. To save yourselfunwanted trauma, it is always best to bookin advance. Florence is always popular withtourists and often the more cost-effectivehotels are full in November. You will alsofind that hotel prices are high even duringlow season.

If you decide to drive to Florence, takenote that the municipal police will not allowyou to enter the city unless you have ahotel booking or unless you need to unloadyour luggage. If you must use a car, it isimportant to stay at a hotel that has parking.

Santa Maria Novella

Many of the city's hotels are located in thiscentrally-located district; close to the trainstation and all the tourist attractions. If youwant to stay near the splendor of the SantaMaria Novella, then try Hotel Aprile. Fivestar hotels are sprinkled throughout thecity and some of the best of these hotelsinclude: the Grand Hotel and the WestinExcelsior,(both are in piazza d'Ognissanti)these are the places where the VIPs andpoliticians stay when they come to visitthe city. The Villa Medici has an enticingswimming pool, and is close to the Piazzadella Repubblica, as is the Helvetia&Bristol. The Croce di Malta faces thePiazza Santa Maria Novella. The AstoriaPalazzo Gaddi is inside a beautiful palazzowhich has glorious ceilings decoratedwith frescoes. If you arrive in Florence bytrain, you will find many hotels around theStazione Santa Maria Novella that are

either two or three star. Via Panzani(leadingto Piazza del Duomo) and Via Nazionale,have a wide choice of reasonably pricedhotels, many of these are family runestablishments, housed in historic palazzi.The Annabella and the Nizza are only a fewof the long list of hotels that will welcomeyou and treat you well, as you enjoy yourtrip to this beautiful city.

San Giovanni(Duomo)& San Marco

For comfort and elegance near San Marco,try the Hotel Regency in Piazza MassimoD'Azeglio, a pleasant, peaceful piazza.Many fantastic four star hotels are alsoscattered throughout the district, thepick of the bunch are: the Grand HotelBaglioni, which is conveniently locatedbetween the Piazza della Stazione andthe Duomo, this hotel has a stupendousterrace view. Il Brunelleschi, housed in thesplendid, Byzantine Pagliazza tower, wasa female prison during the Middle Ages. IlCalzaiuoli is also situated in a prime spot,between Piazza del Duomo and Piazzadella Signoria. The Hotel Loggiato deiServiti and Le Due Fontane are to be foundin the setting of the Piazza SantissimaAnnunziata.

Santo Spirito(Oltrarno)

Perhaps you would like a view of the Arno?Lungarno has been recently renovated andfaces the river.

Campo di Marte& Fiesole

You can also find a wide choice of three-star establishments along the banks of theLungarni in this district, these are a littlefurther out of town, but you can easily reachthecentro on foot within a matter of minutes:such as the Hotel Columbus.

Novoli

If you are coming to Florence for businessrather than pleasure, you may find it easierto stay near to the airport or the mainmotorways. In the north of the city, you'llfind the Hotel Alexander and the HotelFleming.

Gavinana& Galluzzo

If you want to lose yourself in the midstof the city and be immersed in the greenof Viale dei Colli, then the Grand HotelVilla Cora is ideal, you can take a dip inthe pleasant pool, or you can try the fourstar hotel, Relais Certosa in Certosa delGalluzzo, with its own splendid tennis

courts(should you fancy a little exercise).On the outskirts of the south the Holiday InnGarden Court and the Sheraton beckon. Iflooking for a view of the Arno, then the ParkPalace is for you.© NileGuide

Restaurants InsightsTuscan cuisine, and Florentine foodin particular is essentially based onsimple, natural ingredients. It hails fromthe traditions of peasant food and iswholesome and tasty.

Extra-virgin olive oil is held in pride ofplace in Florence, and it is never missingfrom the Florentine table. Olive oil fromTuscany is cold-pressed, green andpungent orpizzichino(sometimes with aslightly bitter after-taste) and is eaten withina year and a half of harvesting the olives.Olive oil is used as a dip for foods suchas celery, artichokes andpinzimonio(aselection of fresh vegetables). It is alsoused in cooking, and as a condiment forsalads and deliciousbruschette. Amongstthe bruschette there is one that is king, andmust be tasted to be believed! It is madewith red cabbage and beans and thenseasoned with ground pepper and Frantoiooil.

If you want to indulge in Florentine breadyou should remember that in general,bread in Tuscany does not use salt.Tryschiacciata if you want a more flavorfulbread—this is a crusty focaccia salted anddrizzled with olive oil. A typical Florentineantipasto dish is a recipe calledcrostini difegato, pieces of Florentine bread whichhave been baked and dunked in soup,and then garnished with chicken liver pâté,capers and anchovies.

Another traditional Florentine specialty isthe famousbistecca alla fiorentina. Thesteak comes from Chianina, a region nearTuscany which produces the Chianinabreed, regarded as possibly the oldestbreed of cattle in the world. It is thick cut,weighs not less than 800g, cooked on thegrill, served rare and, on occasion, with awedge of lemon on the side. AFiorentinacan satisfy two people, but there are thosebrave enough who will attempt to eat oneall by themselves!

The soups andminestre are well worthtrying and they are derived from peasanttraditions. The most delicious, famous


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Florentine soup isribollita, made witha mixture of stale bread, beans,cavolonero(a black cabbage grown in Tuscany,similar to kale or Swiss Chard) and othertypical Tuscan vegetables.Ribollita derivesits curious name from the fact that thepeasant women would usually cook thesoup in large quantities that would beboiled repeatedly(ribollita), and theneaten for several days. As with manyleftovers,ribollita always tastes better theday after! Other delicious soups arepappacon il pomodoro(a tomato-based soupthat's thickened with bread) andminestradi farro(spelt or barley soup with beans,tomatoes, celery and carrot). Whilesome of these soups might not soundterribly appealing to your palate, they areabsolutely delicious, simple and hearty.

Do you have a sweet tooth?Schiacciataalla Fiorentina is a special Florentine treat:an orange-flavored sponge cake, coveredwith confectioner's sugar(often with acocoagiglio, or lily- the symbol of Florence—sprinkled onto the center) and filledwith pastry or whipped cream. Althoughtypically served around Carnevale, it canbe found at Florence's pastry shops yearround.Cantuccini di Prato are dry almondbiscuits that are dipped in Vin Santo, asweet, aromatic dessert wine.

Tuscan Specialties These specialtiescan be found in the majority of Florence'srestaurants. Some of the more famous,traditional restaurants include: Il Latini,Trattoria Mario, Coco Lezzone and LaCasalinga, there are also many others, sodon't feel dismayed if you don't get into theplaces above.

Haute Cuisine If you fancy somethingmore"refined", or if you want to celebratea really special occasion, then it is worthspending that little bit extra and goingto Enoteca Pinchiorri, or Il Cibreo, youcould also try Cammillo, although you willdefinitely need to book in advance.

Wine Bars There are also manyenotecheor wine bars in Florence: here you candrop in, relax and have a glass or two ofgood Chianti with a sandwich. In the mostelegant places e.g. Enoteca de' Giraldiand Enoteca"La Sosta del Rossellino", youcan try delicious wines accompanied bytasty bruschette and delicate appetizers. LaBarrique wine bar is also very popular andhas an extensive wine list.

Pizza Italy is famous for its pizza andpizzerias can be found in almost every nookand cranny of Florence, although gettinga typical Neapolitan-style pizza might bea bit of a challenge: Florentine crusts tendto be thin and crispy, cooked in a wood-fueled oven. If you prefer the"traditional"Neapolitan pizza, it is almost alwayspossible to ask for a pizza withdoppiapasta(double crust), which means you'll geta softer, thicker crust. Try Ciro& Sons for aslice of Naples in Florence.

International Cuisine Recent years haveseen a big growth in the amount of ethnicrestaurants, ranging from the Chineserestaurants to Mexican(Cafè Caracol),from Indian(Ashoka or Ristorante India), toJapanese(Momoyama) and there are alsomany other restaurants in various areas ofthe city.

Vegetarian Vegetarian cuisine has alsomade an impression on Florence! Ruth'sis next to the Synagogue and sells Kosher,vegetarian fare. Il Vegetariano serveswonderful meat-free and organic dishesand is a huge success in the city.© NileGuide

Nightlife InsightsAlthough Florence is quite a small city,it is inundated with visitors, ex-pats andstudents; this is great news if want to havean evening of raucous fun, or if you preferto follow more cultural pursuits. Visitorsand Florentines alike are impressed by thewealth of entertainment that they find onoffer here.

Cinema

Going to the cinema has become anincreasingly popular pastime since themid-1990s, and the number of cinemashas increased to meet the needs of thepeople in Florence; many of the city'smultiplexes have been renovated andreopened. This change in the amount ofcinemas that exist has created a climateof"non-stop cinematography" and fewercinemas close down during the summermonths. Florentine cinemas are veryvaried; there are modern one-screenhalls, massive multiplexes and smallindependent cinemas. The Cecchi GoriGroup owns the most cinemas in the cityand the majority show general releasesand(dubbed) American blockbusters,

although the Atelier group makes surethat Art house theatre is kept alive. Atelierhave six cinemas that show good qualityindependent films and directors and actorswill often attend previews and answeraudience questions. On Wednesdays,prices are reduced and many Florentinesgo to the movies. However, one of the besttimes to go to the cinema is during thesummer; between the months of June andSeptember: you can watch a new releaseor one of the previous winter's"smashes" inthe open air, as you sit beneath the stars.Some of the"normal" cinemas will remainopen; many of these have air-conditioning,which is a great way to avoid the humidityof a Florentine summer, not to mentionall the mosquitoes! One cinema in thehistoric center, the Odeon, caters to theinternational community showing filmsprimarily in English, and sometimes theoccasional French or Spanish-languagecinematic phenomenon on Mondays,Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Theatre

Although there are many more cinemas,compared with the amount of theatres,it is unfair to say that Florence favorsthe"Big Screen" to the stage. The Florentinetheatrical tradition has always beennoteworthy, for example, the famousMaggio Musicale Fiorentino attractsmany well-known people. The range ofproductions is very varied too, there areupbeat comedies by Neil Simon at Teatrodella Pergola, or more provocative, thoughtprovoking dramas such asA StreetcarNamed Desire at the Teatro Manzoni. IfShakespeare is more your thing, then theMetastasio Theatre will meet your highbrowneeds!

Cafés, Bars& Pubs

In Florence(and everywhere else) mostpeople want to go out and stay out untillate at the weekend; this city has a largenumber of bars and discos, which peoplecan enjoy any day of the week. For a quietevening, drinking and chatting late intothe night, why not try Caffè Pitti in PiazzaPitti, or Hemingway close to Santa Mariadel Carmine. At il Genius you can relaxwith friends and play board/card games.Zoe, Dolce Vita and Porfirio Rubirosaare a little more crowded and lively, whileCafè Caracol has a Latina vibe. If you aremore of a wine lover, then try Pitti Gola orCantina. Maybe you fancy a pint? Both


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The William and Chequers are British instyle,(perhaps to meet the needs of themany ex-pats who make their home here!)They sell an infinite number of beers, andsnacks accompanied by good music andare populated by Florentine beer lovers andforeigners alike. Clubs

Lots of tourists like to check out the clubsand discos when they are on holiday.Florence offers a great variety of nightspots,it is possible to choose from mainstreamdiscos such as Meccanò, where you mightmeet a VIP or two), and the fabulouslycheesy Andromeda, or more specialist rockbars such as Tenax(popular with manyyoung Italians) and the Auditorium Flog.There are many nightclubs(especiallyduring the summer) with theme nights,where people can dance, listen to musicand chat. These include Pongo, which isclose to Teatro Verdi and il Lidò on thebanks of the Arno, which attracts at leasthalf of the city.

As you can see, Florence has much toattract the cultivated wine drinker, thecinephile or the perpetual party boy/girl.Divertitevi!© NileGuide

Things to Do InsightsPiazza del Duomo is a great place to starta tour that will uncover some of Florence'shistorical beauty. Not only is the piazza richin history, but it's an architectural delighttoo. One of the first sights you will see isthe Battistero di San Giovanni, dedicatedto St John the Baptist and one of the oldestbuildings in the city. It was constructedin its current form in the 11th Century.Besides the beautiful interior which is richlydecorated with mosaics, there are gloriousmedieval and Renaissance bronze doors byAndrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti. Thepair of doors designed by Ghiberti that thepublic sees on the Baptistery are replicasand the originals are located nearby at theMuseo dell'Opera del Duomo. The museumis situated on the piazza, behind the apseof the cathedral. Amongst other things, itcontains precious sculptures as well asexhibits connected to the buildings that aredotted around the piazza.

In front of the Baptistery is Santa Maria delFiore, which was built by Arnolfo di Cambioin 1296 to replace the old Santa Reparatacathedral. The archaeological remains of

this cathedral are in the basement of thepresent church. Di Cambio's building wasonly completed 150 years later with theaddition of the enormous cupola(dome) thatsits above the church's transept. FilippoBrunelleschi, a truly gifted Renaissancearchitect designed the dome. It is possibleto reach the top of the cupola(access is onthe right hand side of the church), which is107m from ground level but there is no liftso you will have to climb over 450 steps.It is definitely worth climbing the steps, notjust for the beautiful view that awaits you atthe top, but also so that you can begin toappreciate the mastery of Brunelleschi, asthe cupola is truly an extraordinary feat ofarchitecture.

The interior of the cathedral itself is alsowell worth visiting, even though at timesthere can be a queue. Amongst otherthings, you will be able to see the frescoesbeneath the cupola, painted in the secondhalf of the sixteenth century by Vasari andZucchari. The frescoes cover an area ofaround 3600m2 and represent theLastJudgment. It is also worth taking a lookat the Sacristy where Lorenzo de'Medicisought refuge during the Pazzi conspiracywhen his brother Giuliano was killed in thecathedral in 1478. Here you will also seethe lined marquetries created by a groupof artists including Giuliano and Benedettoda Maiano. There are two frescoes on theright of the nave as you turn towards theexit:Giovanni Acuto(Sir John Hawkwood) byPaolo Uccello andNiccolò da Tolentino byAndrea del Castagno.

As you leave the cathedral, you will see theCampanile di Giotto. Giotto, the renownedMedieval artist himself began work onthe tower prior to his death in the 14thCentury. In this case too, a climb to thetop is recommended—but take care if yousuffer from vertigo!

Walk down Via Calzaiuoli—along whichyou will find hundreds of shops selling allmanner of goods—and in a few minutes,you will reach the Piazza della Signoria,the political center of Florence. The focalpoint of the piazza is the imposing PalazzoVecchio(also known as the Palazzo dellaSignoria). This palace once housed thegovernment of the city of Florence andhas been enlarged several times over thecenturies. Arnolfo di Cambio(the samearchitect who designed the cathedral),created the palazzo in 1294. The sectionthat is not dedicated to the museum retains

its function as the offices of the TownCouncil. The second internal courtyardhouses the only public baths in the citycenter.

On the Piazza della Signoria, you'll comeacross the Loggia dei Lanzi, originally apublic meeting place which is now an open-air museum where you can view severalsculptures by Giambologna(Rape of theSabines) and Baccio Bandinelli(Herculesand Cacus). Besides this, there is alsothe ManneristFountain of Neptuneby Bartolomeo Ammannati and theequestrian monument toCosimo I, byGiambologna. There is a 19th-century copyof Michelangelo's magnificentDavid too,which stands in front of the palace gates.

At this point you have a choice. You caneither visit the Galleria degli Uffizi(probablyone of the most important art collectionsin the world), which is only a short walkfrom the piazza, or, weather permitting,relax at an open-air café, e.g. the Rivoire(apopular choice), which is famous for its hotchocolate with cream—absolute bliss!

Medici Residences You can begin yourvisit with what was the residence of theMedici family, from Cosimo il Vecchio untilthe Grand Duke Cosimo I: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi in Via Larga, now known as ViaCavour. The palace was comissioned byCosimo il Vecchio, designed by famedarchitect Michelozzo in 1444 and finallyenlarged by the Riccardi family whenthey took over ownership of the palace.Today it is seat of Florence's Prefettura andofficial offices of the province of Florence.From the interior courtyard, it is possibleto visit the Cappella dei Magi(Chapel ofthe Magi), frescoed by Benozzo Gozzoliand magnificently restored for the 1992anniversary of the death of Lorenzo de'Medici. Throughout the fresco there arenumerous portraits of major Florentinefigures of the time as well as membersof the Medici family. Some of the famousfaces include leaders of the EasternOrthodox church and John VII Palaiologos,Byzantine Emperor, both figures presentin the city during the Council of 1439. Inthe palace there is also the BibliotecaRiccardiana, with an entrance on viadei Ginori 10, which features one of thegreatest library collections in the city withmanuscripts purchased from RiccardoRiccardi and it has been open to the publicsince the early 18th Century. The library


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is adorned with sculpted interiors of the1700s.

Around the corner from the Palazzo Mediciis the Chiesa di San Lorenzo, one ofFlorence's ancient churches, rebuilt inthe 1500s by Filippo Brunelleschi and hisarchitectural team. One of the true Medicichurches, it contains the tombs of manyof their famous family members, fromGiovanni di Averardo and his wife PiccardaBueri, in the Sagrestia Vecchia, to Cosimoil Vecchio, whose tomb is found in thecrypt, directly beneath the church's highaltar. In the Sagrestia Nuova, a work ofMichelangel, we find on one side the tombsof Lorenzo il Magnifico, and his youngerbrother Giuliano who was murdered inthe Pazzi Conspiracy in 1478, and on theother the tombs of Lorenzo, Duke of Urbinoand Giuliano, Duke of Nemours. In theadjacent Cappella dei Principi(Chapel of thePrinces), an opulent 17th-century design,we find several tombs of Medici Dukes andtheir wives.

Next to the church are the numerous standsof the San Lorenzo Market where you canbuy clothing(new and used), shoes andother trinkets that are great gifts for friendsand family. If you're looking for local foodproducts, the nearby Mercato Centrale,Florence's largest market, you can findeverything from fruit and vegetables tomeat and fish, at affordable prices. Whileyou're there, why not try a lampredottosandwich, a Florentine specialty that not allforeigners are willing to taste.

Returning to the via Cavour and following itupwards, you arrive at piazza San Marco,where the Church of San Marco is found.The historic monastery previously belongedto the Sylvestrines and in 1418 was handedover to the Dominicans. Thanks to thefinancing of Cosimo il Vecchio, the churchand monastery were able to enlarge.

While at the church, you simply can't missthe Museum of San Marco that includespart o the Dominican monastery where Fra'Giovanni da Fiesole(perhaps better knownas Fra' Angelico, Antonino Pierozzi(bishopand Florentine saint), Girolamo Savonarola,and in most recent times Giorgio La Pira,the unforgettable mayor of Florence.A suggested starting point on the tourof the church museum if the Cloister ofSant'Antonino, and then from the SalaCapitolare where Fra' Angelico frescoedone of his masterpieces, theCruxifiction. On

the first floor of the monastery, spread outthrough three corridors that open onto themonks' cells, all decorated with frescoeswith religious scenes entirely done by Fra'Angelo and his workshop. This is, withouta doubt, one of the most interesting andemotional parts of the complex.

Not fear from the piazza is the Accademiadi Belle Arti where the small off-shootbuilding of the Galleria dell'Accademia, inwhich, among the many works of art, is theoriginal copy of theDavid by Michelangeloas well as other works by this well-knownFlorentine artist, such as thePrisoners. Thismuseum contains four of the statues thatwere originally designed for the final restingplace of Pope Julius II(a Medici); however,it was never realized.

Given the pretense of several officesof the university, particularly in via degliAlfani, there are many bakeries, smallgrocery stores and bars where you cangetschiacciatine(a foccaccia-like breadwith salt, olive oil and sometimes peppers,olives and other savory treats on top,sandwiches, or coldprimi at affordableprices. This also means that you can findsit-down places that don't overcharge ifyou don't take your meal or coffee at thebar. This zone is also characterized bythe presence of specialized libraries, copyshops and printing offices.

From the piazza San Marco, you can easilyarrive in under a couple minutes to thepiazza della Santissima Annunziata, withthe Basilica Mariana della SantissimaAnnunziata, and on the right side, thecolonade designed by Filippo Brunelleschifor the Ospedale degli Innocenti, a truemasterpiece of Renaissance architecture.At this point, you ought to be tired, and ifyou decide to head down the via dei Servi,towards the Duomo whose magnificentcupola is visible from the middle of thepiazza, or turn down the via della Colonnaand arrive at the Archaeological Museum,to appreciate and superb Etruscan andEgyptian artifacts.

Oltrarno Towards the Ponte Vecchio,characterized by the numerous jewelryshops, which originally butcher and leathermakers that lined the river, and in crossingthis famous bridge you arrive in an areaknown as the Oltrarno. The area is moreformally known as Santo Spirito and todayhas unique artistic characteristics thatdistinct it from other parts of the city. During

the summer, it is not difficult to find localssitting on chairs in front of their apartmentbuildings, chatting and discussing theday's events. This has always been anarea where many artists have lived andworked, something that is still quite visibletoday with the numerous restoration and artstudios that line the streets.

Shortly after crossing the bridge, on theleft there is the Chiesa di Santa Felicita,Florence's oldest church, restored in the18th Century. Up a bit further is the largepiazza on an incline which leads to theentrance of the Palazzo Pitti, originally aresidence of the Pitti family who went brokeconstructing and decorating it to outdo theMedici...who eventually purchased it in1565 to save Luca Pitti from impendingdebt. Today the palazzo houses fivemuseums, but if you don't want to staycooped up indoors and the weather permitsit, it is strongly suggested that you visit theBoboli Gardens, which is easily accessiblefrom the palace's courtyard. The extensivegardens go from the hills to the ForteBelvedere, a fortress of the city; however, ifyou can't make it to the top, a walk amongstthe trees and sit on the benches to enjoythe beauty of the gardens.

Following these suggestions, justoutside the piazza Pitti is the splendidvia Maggio(previously known as the viaMaggiore), lined with gorgeous 16th-century palaces that belonged to Florence'smost noted families, not to mention allthe lovely antique shops that are on bothsides of the road. Shopping here is reallyélite, reserved for those who can affordto buy an expensive villa or an expensiveRenaissance-era piece of furniture. Thereare also more affordable shops in the areawhere you can find items to bring home assouvenirs.

Walking down these narrow streets thatcharacterize this area you will inevitablyfind yourself in front of the Chiesa di SantoSpirito, Brunelleschi's last architecturaltriumph. In front of the church, everymorning, there are different markets, andonce a month there is an antiques market-truly an event to not miss out on. Thereare plenty of choices for dining in this area:bakeries, grocery shops, but also small,family-run trattorie with homemade mealsand outstanding menus at affordable prices.

By this point, if you aren't alreadyexhausted, you can take the main street


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back towards the Chiesa di Santa Mariadel Carmine, even if it's just to seethe chapel of Felice Brancacci that hecommissioned from Masaccio in the 1420s.The frescoes are truly a masterpiece ofEarly Renaissance art, works not to miss.The entrance to the chapel. The entranceto the chapel is from the piazza, on the rightside of the church.© NileGuide

Travel TipsGetting There

By Air

Florence's Amerigo VespucciAirport(+39 055 373 3498/ http://www.aeroporto.firenze.it/) is just six milesnorthwest of downtown, but handles alimited number of airlines. It has recentlybeen renovated to accommodate morepassengers and more airlines. Theyinclude:

Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/)Austrian Airlines(+1 800 843 0002/http://www.aua.com/) Belle Air( +35542 40 194/ http://www.belleair.al/)Brussels Airlines(+1 516 740 5200/ http://www.brusselsairlines.com/) Carpatair(+44208 602 7077/ http://www.carpatair.ro/)Continental( +1 800 231 0856/ http://www.continental.com/) Flybaboo( http://www.flybaboo.com/) KLM( +1 800 3747747/ http://www.klm.nl/) Lufthansa( +1800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com/)Meridiana(+39 0789 52682/ http://www.meridiana.it/) Sterling Airlines( +440870 787 8038/ http://www.sterling.dk/)Swiss Airways( +1 877 359 7947/ http://www.swiss.com/)

From the Airport

Bus: ATAF(+39 055 56 501/ http://www.ataf.net/) provides bus service every30 minutes between 6a-11:30p. Theride takes about 20 minutes, depositingpassengers at the Santa Maria Novella RailStation. Cost: EUR4.50.

Taxis: Taxis can be found just outside thearrival terminal. Rides to downtown last15-20 minutes and cost approximately EUR20-30.

Rental Cars: There are several rentaldealers at the airport with offices in the

downtown area near Santa Maria Novellatrain station.

Avis(+1 800 831 2847/ http://www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800 654 3131/http://www.hertz.com/) Europcar(+39 041541 5654/ http://www.europcar.com/)National(+1 800 227 7368/ http://www.nationalcar.com/)

By Train

Ferrovie Dello Stato, or FS(http://www.trenitalia.it/), the Italian state railway,enjoys a sound reputation for efficiency.Since Florence is on the main Rome-MilanLine, riders are offered a variety of dailyoptions, including Intercity trains(IC), knownfor their express service. Santa MariaNovella, the city's main train station locatedin the north end of Florence, handles mostof the rail traffic. Rifredi, a much smallerstation, offers a limited number of railchoices.

By Bus

Lazzi Eurolines(+39 055 363 041) handlesinternational travel connecting Florencewith major European cities such asBrussels, Barcelona, Paris and Prague.Its station is located adjacent to the SantaMaria Novella train station. Domestic travelis provided by SITA(+39 055 294 9555/http://www.sita-on-line.it/) to locations suchas Lucca, Volterra, Pisa, Siena, Empoli andmore.

By Car

Autostrada 1(A1), Italy's major highway,juts into Florence from Bologna from thenorth, and continues south to Rome.E76 connects Florence with Pisa and theLigurian Sea to the west.

Getting Around

The Azienda Transporti Area Florentina, orATAF(+39 055 56501/ http://www.ataf.net/),manages Florence's bus transportation. Itservices all the major tourist attractions,operating between 5a-1:30a. Fares: 70-minute ticket EUR 1.20; one-day ticketEUR 5; three-day ticket EUR 12; seven-dayticket EUR 22.

Taxi

Taxis can easily be hailed at stands foundat hotels and major squares throughout thecity. A minimum fare starts at EUR 4.

Cars

Cars are not recommended. Most ofFlorence's narrow streets are limitedto locals with properly marked vehiclesand filled with locals zooming around onscooters. And if you dare to drive you willquickly learn that the Renaissance nevergave thought to parking.

Walking

Walking rates as the best means fornegotiating Florence's narrow maze ofcobblestone alleys and streets. Downtownis very compact with most of the majortourist attractions located within severalblocks of each other. Be sure, however, tocarry a map.

Motorini

Mopeds, if anything, will make you looklike a local. Riders must be 18 and helmetsare mandatory. Alinari(+39 055 280500), Maxirent(+39 055 265 420), andMassimo(+39 055 573 689) are good rentalsources. Expect to pay around EUR 30 perday.

Flying Into Pisa(PSA)

Pisa's Galileo Galilei(+39 050 849 300/http://www.pisa-airport.com/)(PSA) isthe larger of the two airports that serviceTuscany, but is situated 58 miles west ofFlorence. Major airlines include:

Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/)British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/ http://www.ba.com/) Continental(+1 800 5250280/ http://www.continental.com/)Delta( +1 800 221 1212/ http://www.delta.com/) easyJet( +44 870600 0000/ http://www.easyjet.com/)Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com/) RyanAir( http://www.ryanair.com/) Sky Europe(+421 24850 4850/ http://www2.skyeurope.com/)TUI(+49 511 2200 4713/ http://www.tuifly.com/) United( +1 800 538 2929/http://www.united.com/) US Airways( +1800 622 1015/ http://www.usairways.com/)

Trains& Coaches from Pisa to FlorenceRiding the train is a good travel optionto Florence. The Pisa Aeroporto stationprovides a train about one every hourbetween 6:30a-10:30p. Rides last an hourand a half. One-way fare: EUR 5.40.

A new coach service from Pisa toFlorence is offered by Terravision(http://


33

www.terravision.eu/florence_pisa.html/),with trips taking just 70-80 minutes andcosts EUR 8 one-way.

Rental Cars: Avis(+1 800 831 2847/http://www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com/)Europcar(+39 041 541 5654/ http://www.europcar.com/) Thrifty(+1 800 3672277/ http://www.thrifty.com/)

The drive to Florence on the E76 takesabout 45 minutes.© NileGuide

Fun FactsTop 12 Florence Facts

1.Weird Fact: Florence streets can be onename at one end of the street and anothername at the other end. For example,Via Martelli is the street leading awayfrom Piazza del Duomo then at the firstintersection it turns into Via Cavour.

2.Fun Fact: Florence is the capital city ofthe province of Florence and the Italianregion of Tuscany.

3.Interesting Fact:Via Chiantigianais themost beautiful road in all of Italy. Windingthrough the vineyards and woodlandssurrounding Florence connecting to Siena.

4.Weird Fact: Fiascois an Italian wordreferring to a glass bottle or flask witha long neck. According to the OxfordEnglish dictionaryfiasco--meaning afailure or complete breakdown--comesfrom the Italian expressionfare fiasco,to make a bottle. Nobody knows howthis Italian expression came to be in theEnglish language. Today, old trattorie arestill calledfiaschetteria--working men'staverns. Back in the day was knownas taverns with hearty, cheap Tuscanwines and later for a more homey Tuscanspecialities that paired with the wines.

5.Fun Fact: How do the Italiansreallyeatpasta? The correct technique involvespiercing some pasta near the edge of thebowl, not in the center but at the twelveo'clock position, then twirling the pastaaround the fork against the rim of the bowl.

6.Historical Fact:In 1339, Florence becamethe first city in Europe with paved streets.

7.Random Fact:Florence was home tothe infamousMedicifamily from the 14thcentury to the 18th century.Leonardo daVinci,Niccolo Machievelli,Galileo Galilei,Amerigo Vespucci, Donatello, Raffaele,Roberto Cavalli, and Guccio Gucci,fashiondesigner andGuccifashion was founded inFlorence 1921.

8.Historical Fact:The Grand Duchy ofTuscany was the first state to abolishcapital punishment in November 1786.

9.Interesting Fact:Florence has had twofloods; one on November 4, 1333 andNovember 4, 1966.

10.Fun Fact:What would come to bethought of as Italian was first formalized inthe first years of the 14th century throughthe works of Dante Alighieri, who mixedsouthern Italian languages, especiallySicilian, with his native Florentine in hisepic poems known collectively as theDivineComedy. Dante's much-loved works wereread throughout Italy and his written dialectbecame the standard that all educatedItalians could understand. Dante is stillcredited with standardizing the Italianlanguage and, thus, the dialect of Florencebecame the basis for what would becomethe official language of Italy.

11.Historical Fact:Florence Nightingale,famous for revolutionizing the field ofnursing, was named for the city of her birth.

12.Fun Fact:Florence is best known forleather and gold© NileGuide


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Weather

Statistics Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Temperature C

Average High 11 12 16 19 24 28 32 32 27 21 15 11

Average Mean 6 7 11 13 18 22 25 25 21 16 11 7

Average Low 2 3 6 8 12 16 18 19 15 12 7 4

Temperature F

Average High 51 54 61 66 75 83 89 89 80 70 59 52

Average Mean 43 45 51 56 64 72 77 77 69 61 51 45

Average Low 36 37 42 47 54 61 65 66 59 53 44 38

Rainy Days 6 6 6 7 7 6 4 5 7 8 8 8

Rain Fall (cm) 3.4 3.7 3.2 6.0 4.5 3.8 2.3 2.8 5.5 8.6 8.9 5.2

Rain Fall (in) 1.4 1.5 1.2 2.4 1.8 1.5 0.9 1.1 2.2 3.4 3.5 2.0

© NileGuide

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Best Things to do in Florence - Luxury Link...Pizza that will make your belly full 5 Day 1 - Florence QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: The first visit to Florence should be a relaxing and special