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Many may argue that South Africa’s beauty is best viewed from behind the handle bars of a motorbike. BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa is just that – real bike journeys to far flung corners and back of beyond.This book takes the reader on a journey through a diverse landscape with 84 pages of bike tours from scenic routes and mountain passes to tough gravel roads and dirt tracks. It includes photos and detailed route maps, making it a handy guide to exploring small town South Africa. The book is a comprehensive resource for any traveller and includes full map coverage of South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland. Points of interest include accommodation establishments, camp sites, historical monuments, mountain passes and national parks. Each chapter contains regional travel info & facts, journey distances, "best bike to ride" info and a complete Q&A from experienced riders. Coverage includes Route 62, The Cederberg & West Coast Region, Little and Great Karoo, Baviaanskloof, Transkei, Mpumalanga, Swaziland and Lesotho.
Citation preview
Including Swaziland & Lesotho
BIKE South Africa
BIKESouth Africa
Tar & Gravel Adventures in
Covers the region’s best motorbiking routes
On- and Off-Road Routes | Classic Scenic Routes | Mountain Passes
What to see | What to do | Parks | Accommodation and much more
byGreg Beadle
BIK
E So
uth
Africa
Tar & G
ravel Adventures in
I S B N 978-1-77026-294-2
9 7 8 1 7 7 0 2 6 2 9 4 2MAC/CPT/1111/TG/NB/RA
· Border crossings
· Camp sites & caravan parks
· Detailed distance markers
· Dive sites
· Ferries & bridges
· 4X4 trail positions
· GPS co-ordinates
· Hiking trails
· Historic battlefield sites
· Historic sites
· Lighthouses
· Major airports & airfields
· Mountain passes
· National parks & reserves
· National, main & minor route numbers
· Nature reserves & bird sanctuaries
· Places of interest
· Provincial heritage sites
· Selected accommodation
· Shipwreck sites
· Spot heights
· Toll plaza positions
· Whale-watching sites
· Wine estates
Includes detailed atlas
PAGE
The Thing about Adventure Motorcycling 4
Riding in Groups 6
About the Author 7
Route 1 – Cape Town to Prince Albert 8
Route 2 – Cederberg and the West Coast 18
Route 3 – The Ultimate Road Trip 26
Route 4 – The Greater Karoo Loop 34
Route 5 – Baviaanskloof 44
Route 6 – Rhodes Village and Surrounds 52
Route 7 – Transkei Meander 64
Route 8 – Pietermaritzburg to
Lesotho 70
Route 9 – Southern Mpumalanga
and Swaziland 78
Route 10 – Northern Mpumalanga 88
Preparation List 96
Maps 100
Map Section Legend and Keyplan 217
The One-Armed Bandit Rides Again 218
Contents
26
• 3–5 days of comfortable riding, exploring the Little Karoo, Langkloof and the Garden Route all in one trip • Road routes don’t really relate to technical difficulty, but this trip gets 10/10 for the enjoyment factor • Great riding for a group of any size
The Ultimate Road Trip
Durban
Cape Town
Johannesburg
Bloemfontein
SEE PAGE 100 IN MAIN MAP SECTION
PREPARATION LIST Pack rain gear no matter what the season •
Being a road trip, weight is not as critical as on •
the off-road routes, so pack a tent and sleeping
bags; keep your options open
APPEAL OF THIS ROUTE This route must be one of the most scenic and •
interesting riding routes in South Africa
Great roads with well-maintained surfaces •
throughout the year
Many mountain passes along the way to keep •
you smiling
Road bikesI love the variety of bikes and riders I see on the
roads – from the city scooter folk to a commuter
riding a scrambler (road-legal) on the N2 an hour
each way every day; from the Harley hogs to the
couples wearing matching kit on a shiny motorcycle
the size of a luxury 4X4 that includes such
necessities as a refrigerated top-box with vanity
mirror inside, a reverse gear and an ashtray. As one
of the Vespa clubs has shown (on a trip to Namibia
and back on vintage Vespas), you don’t necessarily
have to have all the bells and whistles to enjoy
touring the South African roads.
With only 10% of South Africa’s roads being
tarred, most of the fun on a road bike is to be
experienced in mountain passes, on winding
roads and – not to be ignored – the open desert
road. Plentiful passes and, in global terms, high-
quality tar roads make South Africa the perfect
road-touring country. Fuel supply is reliable,
the scenery spectacular and the locals friendly.
There’s also a variety of accommodation along
the way – something to suit everyone’s budget.
For me the ultimate road trip could only be in
the Cape. Having grown up in Johannesburg and
having travelled extensively via 4X4, I appreciate
the beauty of the ‘Northern Territories’ but every-
thing pales in comparison to the road riding on
our doorstep in the western and southern parts
of the Cape. This route, based on a 3–5-day trip,
will give you the option of cruising along and
stopping wherever you like or allow you to pack
on the miles of enjoyable passes and scenic roads.
My ultimate road trip starts in Cape Town with
an early coffee at the Engen One Stop on the N1
just outside the city. The Wimpy there actually
makes a decent espresso coffee, so after my
standard order of a double espresso with hot milk
on the side, I’m now awake and ready to ride.
Heading north on the N1, we take the first
Stellenbosch turn-off. Turn right and proceed
over the N2 into Stellenbosch. Following the
signs for Franschhoek, you will go up and over the
Helshoogte Pass, the first of many passes on this
trip. Helshoogte, meaning ‘hell of a height’ and
once called Banghoek due to the wild animals
scaring travellers, is hugely popular for Sunday
27
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY ALONG THE WAY
morning runs with superbikes as it offers fant-
astic cambered corners that allow you to open up
once poised and lined up to accelerate through
your chosen line.
Ride past Tokara, a wine farm at the sum-
mit of the pass on a hill called Botmaskop. This
hill was where a sentry would once look out for
the arrival of boats in Table Bay, notifying the
residents of what is now Franschhoek to transport
their produce to the Cape Town harbour.
Cruising down the eastern side of the pass,
you will enjoy great views of Simonsberg on your
left and will pass the Hillcrest Berry Farm, a
surprisingly nice venue for tea and cake when
you’re in that frame of mind.
Look out for the speed humps as you enter
Pniel. Once you have passed Boschendal, you
reach the T-junction after the old railway crossing
where you turn right and ride into Franschhoek
on the R45. Take note of the sign on your right
pointing to L’Ormarins and the Franschhoek
Motor Museum. If you haven’t been to see the
fine display of motoring history proudly curated
by the Rupert family, make a point of going to
see it. It features motorcycles from early on in
history, and it’s fascinating to see how technology
in bikes has developed so quickly.
There’s a fuel station on your left as you enter
Franschhoek. Pick a coffee shop for your next
cup of coffee before continuing up the Fransch-
hoek Pass. This pass is just as dramatic as (if not
more so than) the Helshoogte Pass. It offers you
an unsurpassed view over the Franschhoek valley,
which is particularly spectacular in winter, with
snowcapped mountains. From here it becomes
clear why the early settlers called this town
Franschhoek – a corner of France.
The tighter turns and the views through the
mountains over Theewaterskloof Dam are sure
to add to your satisfaction levels. Look out for
Jan Joubert’s Gat, a bridge marking the end of
the Franschhoek Pass. It is the country’s oldest
stone-arch bridge, spanning 5m across the river.
When you reach the T-junction, turn left in the
direction of Villiersdorp and head through towards
Worcester. Be careful as you pick up speed head-
ing up the long straight out of Villiersdorp. At the
crest the road veers to the right rather suddenly
as the land before you drops away down to the
bottom of this short mountain pass. The scenery
is lovely as you come around the Brandvlei Dam,
where you turn right at Aan-de-Doorns and take
a little short cut to the R60. Turn right onto the
R60 and proceed to Robertson.
28
THE VIEW FROM DU TOITSKLOOF PASS WITH TABLE MOUNTAIN VISIBLE IN THE CENTRE ON THE DISTANT HORIZON
TOP TIPOne tip that I was taught on riding through corners
is to focus on the horizon of the corner or as far
as you can see around the corner. This will allow
you to better predict whether you can accelerate
as you see the corner opening up or decelerate
should you see the corner closing in. This small
tip can see you increasing your speed and enjoy-
ment through corners while still riding safely.
At Robertson you can refuel and stop for
breakfast. I recommend the breakfast at Affie
Plaas, the first farm stall on your left before you
enter town. From Robertson, proceed to Ashton
and then on to Montagu. The short section of road
between Ashton and Montagu on the Kogmans-
kloof Pass will take you around ten minutes on
your bike, but be aware of what a struggle it must
have been in the old days when there was no tar
road or tunnel. The first pass followed a similar
route, although it had eight fords where the road
went into the Kingna River bed, including the
section where travellers had to pass around
Kalkoenskop (through which the tunnel now
proceeds). This was highly risky and lives were
lost when flood waters came raging down.
Kogmanskloof Pass was completed by the
legendary Thomas Bain in 1877. As you
approach the tunnel you will see remains of the
old pass to your right across the river. The tunnel
was blown out of the rock using gunpowder –
a very risky undertaking in those days, as
dynamite was fairly new and rather scarce. You
can proceed with relative ease through the tunnel
and onto the R62, admiring the folds of these
immense mountains and the colourful splashes
of lichen on the rock faces. Do be aware of one
particular corner just after the tunnel that can
catch you out quite quickly if you are going a
little too fast.
Montagu, built on the back of fruit and wine
production, is a really pretty town with great
accommodation options. I enjoy staying at the
Aasvoëlkrans B&B, a rustic but comfortable
country house with four garden suites. Don’t get
me wrong on rustic here. Clever use of industrial
windows and practical room layout make for a
tranquil stay, and the breakfast is delicious
(www.aasvoelkrans.co.za). Another great over-
night spot is De Bos, with accommodation
options that include a backpackers’ barn,
en-suite rooms and camping (www.debos.co.za).
Just north of the town you will find a healthy
29
supply of mineral-enriched hot-water springs that
attract many people here to relax for a weekend.
As you enter Montagu, look out for the Route
62 restaurant and farm stall on your left – they
make a great breakfast and you can stock up on
‘padkos’ (road snacks) here too. From here we
head into the Litttle Karoo, with the scenery vary-
ing between lush, fertile river valleys and the arid
openness of the Karoo plains.
Barrydale is the next place to refuel. The
Barry family started developing this town in
1882 as a church and trading centre on the farm
Tradouw’s Hoek. At the Barrydale junction you
have the option to experience the very beautiful
Tradouws Pass to your right. This pass clings to
the side of a rather large, deep river gorge, and
it’s worth a half-hour ride over the pass and then
back again just to enjoy the natural beauty. From
Barrydale, you can continue along the R62 to
Ladismith. Stop for a beer or cool drink at
Ronnie’s Sex Shop on the way – it’s well worth
the short break (see panel, page 9).
Ladismith was named after Lady Juana
Smith, wife of the governor, Sir Harry Smith. The
town (named Ladismith to avoid confusion with
Ladysmith in KwaZulu-Natal) was a booming
success in the early 1900s due to the popularity
of ostrich feathers, but the industry crashed in
1914, leaving the whole area bankrupt.
As you approach Ladismith, you will see a
significant mountain peak to the west, called
Toorkop (‘Bewitched Peak’). Legend has it that
a witch battled to cross the mountain range at
night and in her frustration split the mountain in
two with her magic wand. Today this rock dome
still has two separate pinnacles, looking remark-
ably different when viewed from either side.
Between Ladismith and Calitzdorp you’ll enjoy
the Huisrivier Pass, taking its name from ‘huis’,
the Khoi word for willow tree. This impressive
work of engineering was overseen by a civil
engineer named Graham Ross, who also wrote a
popular book that should be on every adventure
rider’s book shelf, The Romance of Cape Moun-
tain Passes. The challenge when building this
road was predominantly the risk of landslides on
the steep-sloped western parts of the pass. You’ll
see the vast retaining walls on your left as you
weave through the tight bends of this fine pass.
Calitzdorp, a favoured lunch-stop town, offers
great food and the fine port that the area is
renowned for. Handelshuis and Dorpshuis both
offer tasty lunch menus and prompt service.
From Calitzdorp you can see the Swartberg
30
SNOWY PEAKS BEHIND LADISMITH
KNYSNA LAGOON
Mountains on the left as you near Oudtshoorn,
named after the Baroness von Rheede van
Oudtshoorn, wife of the civil commissioner of
George. C J Langenhoven settled here in 1899,
practising as an attorney and becoming a strong
voice for the Afrikaans language. In 1918 he
wrote Die Stem, the old South African national
anthem. Oudtshoorn was known as the ostrich
feather capital of the world, and tourists can visit
the nearby working ostrich farms.
From Oudtshoorn, follow the N12 to De Rust,
a tranquil country village. Meiringspoort is one
of the main reasons travellers pass through De
Rust, but there are also the ‘Red Hills’, on Riet-
vlei farm just a few kilometres outside of De Rust
– a natural heritage site with red coloured open
caves. Here, conglomerate stone appears above
the earth. There is a hiking trail on the farm
which leads you to this phenomenon. Continuing
northwards on the N12, you approach another
natural highlight of the trip: Meiringspoort. The
history of this pass can be read in the Cape Town
to Prince Albert chapter (see panel, page 12),
and I believe this to be one of the most impress-
ive and one of only a few flat-road mountain
passes in South Africa. The pass has towering,
folded sides and crosses the river often, giving
you the opportunity to swim in a large rock pool
under a waterfall, very near to the visitors’ centre.
From Meiringspoort, I recommend proceed-
ing to Prince Albert for the night (see panel, page
14), or else you can turn back and then turn left
onto the R341 just before De Rust. The R341 is
yet another scenic, well-surfaced tar road from
which you turn right onto the R339 to Uniondale.
From Uniondale you can take the Uniondale
Poort, a rather astounding little poort, with
obvious flood damage where the powerful
waters have clawed away at the road’s edge.
On reaching Avontuur, turn left onto the R62 to
enter the Langkloof.
The Langkloof is the country’s second largest
producer of deciduous fruit (the Western Cape
is the largest). The R62 will be taking you along
a route that follows the classic ‘Apple Express’
railway line, linking all the towns and villages.
This narrow-gauge (610mm) railway line runs
from Avontuur to Port Elizabeth (its 283km ex-
tent making it the longest in the world) and this
famous steam train used to be the main trans-
port route for export fruit through the Langkloof.
31
... the ultimate road trip could only be in the Cape ...
Squeezed between the Kouga mountain range to
the north and the Tsitsikamma and Kareedouw
ranges to the south, this road route offers some
special scenery, with the contrast of lush fruit-
yielding vegetation and a background of rugged
mountain peaks on either side of the road.
Joubertina is named for the Reverend W A
Joubert who was the Dutch Reformed minister
of Uniondale from 1879 to 1892. In the early
days of the town’s development, the Joubertina
Hotel was positioned outside
the municipal boundaries, as
the seller of the original farm
was a teetotaller who enforced a condition of sale
that no alcohol could be sold in Joubertina.
The R62 ends at a T-junction; turn left onto
the R102 to Humansdorp, where you can refuel
before heading to St Francis Bay for the night.
St Francis Bay was first sighted by Portu-
guese sailors in 1575 and is named after the
patron saint of sailors, St Francis. Worth check-
ing out is the nearby Oyster Bay lighthouse. The
lighthouse was built in 1878 to warn ships of the
dangerous reefs that stretch for more than a kilo-
metre out to sea. At a height of 27.5m it is the
tallest masonry tower on the South African coast,
and is now a heritage site. (Just check on the
condition of the dirt road before venturing down
there on your road-loving mean machine.)
St Francis Bay offers a large range of accom-
modation. My personal favourite is Heath House,
right on the cliff-edge overlooking the beach and
the Indian Ocean. It’s not the cheapest, but it’s
a truly special treat after a long day’s riding and
also great for two nights if you want a rest day in
between your riding days. Looking out to sea at
night you will more than likely see bright lights
shimmering off the ocean from a fleet of fish-
ing boats all harvesting chokka (also known as
calamari or, to the fishermen,
white gold) during the chokka
season. Also worth noting
is the Olive Tree Junction, on the road into St
Francis from Humansdorp, for tasty lunches and
decadent cakes. For more information, visit
www.olivetreejunction.co.za
Heading back to Cape Town, take the N2,
cruising along a quality sliver of tarmac that
slices through dramatically beautiful scenery all
the way to Knysna. Walls of dense, green forest
and ferns are particularly impactful alongside the
road once you pass over the Storms River Bridge.
I recommend a stop at Storms River Mouth, one
of South Africa’s best camp sites. You camp on
the rocks at the ocean’s edge, with the waves
crashing only metres from your tent. Brilliant
ablutions and a large restaurant make it a biker-
friendly camping establishment. As a day visitor
32
TOP TIPIf you should ever camp at Groenvlei, be sure
to take major mosquito repellant measures. We
endured the most mosquito bites known to man
in the space of 12 hours of camping with inferior
quality mosquito nets. This was a long time ago
but is still an itchy memory.
COFFEE BREAK
you can take a walk across the swing bridge or
enjoy a tasty breakfast.
You could also consider the alternative
route off the N2 via Nature’s Valley, with its
magical scenery and many twists and turns on
the Grootriver Pass. I highly recommend this
beautiful detour to take a break from the high-
speed riding on the highway. Watch out for
speed cameras at Plettenberg Bay before you ride
through what must be the most scenic region
of any national road in South Africa. Between
Plettenberg Bay and Knysna you pass through
the majesty and magic of the ancient forests,
ferns, big trees and trails that make this area so
attractive to all lovers of the outdoors.
Stop at Mon Petit Pain on your way through
Knysna for a proper coffee and delectable pas-
tries. Read more about Knysna in the Baviaans-
kloof chapter (see panel, page 45). Continuing
past Groenvlei and Swartvlei, Wilderness awaits.
The expanse of Wilderness beach draws your eye
away from the road signs, so watch out for speed
cameras before you climb up to Dolphin Point.
You then go down to the Kaaimans River and
climb up past Victoria Bay, another great camp
site and cool surf spot, before arriving in George.
Here you can choose your route back to
Cape Town. I recommend taking the N2 back
to Swellendam, then the R60 to Ashton,
Robertson and Worcester, and finally the N1 back
to Cape Town. Otherwise you could continue all
the way along the N2, up the Houwhoek Pass
and through the beautiful plateau of Elgin and
Grabouw before dropping down Sir Lowry’s Pass
back onto the Cape Flats to take you to the
Mother City. Alternatively, you could venture up
the Outeniqua Pass to Oudtshoorn and then head
back home along the R62.
33
Biker: Greg Coetzee, 37, national marketing manager
from Pretoria.
Make and model of bike(s): BMW R1200GS, BMW
R1200GS Adventure, BMW F800GS.
Which is your favourite adventure bike for 3–5-day trips and why? BMW R1200GS. The riding position is
well suited for a very comfortable ride and enables you
to take in the scenery where riding conditions allow. With
a comfortable riding position you can cover longer dis-
tances without getting overly fatigued during the ride or
arriving in an exhausted state at your destination. I would
consider this a safety aspect of the bike.
Why did you choose this particular bike? The BMW
R1200GS is easy enough to ride for short commuting
trips through the traffic, offering you the ease of handling
to take on any traffic situation, and it’s also great for
longer-distance riding.
How often do you take a passenger? This is unfortu-
nately something I have never done, probably because
none of my partners has wanted to get on the back of a
motorcycle … not because I was the rider, just because
it was something they never wanted to do.
Do you prefer on-road or off-road and why? I enjoy a
mixture – on-road with gentle non-technical off-road
riding.
Favourite 3–5-day adventure trip: I had an enjoyable
trip up to Graskop, where the group I was with plotted a
mixture of on-road and off-road routes to and around the
area. Unfortunately I was just ‘tagging’ along, so at times
I was at their mercy in that they knew where they were
going and I didn’t. I would love to explore the Karoo area
as I have heard a great deal about this from other riders
and believe that you can get a happy medium of both the
types of riding I enjoy.
Tyre choice: No brand in particular, but multipurpose for
my style of riding.
Custom accessories you have added: I have only added
a BMW luggage roll. This is big enough, and completely
waterproof for all types of weather, and can easily be
swapped between different bikes without the hassle and
constraints of brackets that need to be fitted.
What are the five most important things you pack for a typical adventure? Camera – to show people where you
have been; basic first-aid kit; means of communication
like a charged cellphone; fluids for hydration and some-
thing for energy, depending on the availability of places
to get this on your route; and a detailed route plan.
What made you start riding a motorcycle? My cousin
lived and breathed motorcycling and he taught me how
to ride. It looked and sounded like great fun.
How long have you been riding? I have been riding on
and off for about ten years now, but I’m still a solid
novice! (I actually only started riding years after I was
taught, when I started working at BMW Motorcycles.)
What was your first motorcycle? It was a 1998 F650FL,
the facelift Funduro.
Highlights of your first bike: Unfortunately it wasn’t
mine, but it was intimidating in size as I hadn’t been on
a bike in years. I clearly remember the ‘thumping’ of the
single cylinder.
How often do you ride motorcycle/s now? I suppose
unless you commute on a motorcycle every day the
answer would invariably be ‘not often enough’. I try and
get out as often as I can, but on the other hand I have
the privilege of being able to ride different bikes as part
of my fantastic job!
Which foreign country would you most like to visit on a motorcycle and why? I was fortunate enough to have
ridden the BMW K100GT and GTL in Spain. Their roads
are superb, and for road touring the limited amount I saw
was just enough to make me want to plan a trip to see
so much more. The part of Spain I got to ride in, around
Marbella, had beautiful mountain passes, filled with
sweeping twists and turns to get the adrenaline pumping
and heighten the thrill of the ride.
If you could choose one model of motorcycle to park in your lounge just to look at, which would it be? A carbon
version of the BMW S1000RR.
Do you have any extra comments about your experi-ences, news, aspirations, memories, views or hopes for motorcycling? I hope that motorcycling can move away
from the stigma it has acquired because of a very small
part of the biking community who behave like hooli-
gans. Motorcycling gets branded ‘extremely dangerous’
because one or two of these hooligans
cannot behave and ride with total
disregard for their own and others’
safety. By changing this negative
perception of motorcycling I am
sure we can change
the public’s attitude
and increase their
awareness of the
motorcyclists out
on the road every
day, getting to and
from their destina-
tions safely.
96
Preparation List
GPS:
This is my big debate. I am not keen on relying on a GPS, preferring to pore over a map book and remember
what I saw last night when approaching a fork in the road. That said, a GPS can be invaluable when exploring
a remote area with few roads. It can save you a lot of time and assist you in keeping your bearing. The other
bonus is that you are able to listen to music through your GPS should you have a communication system. This
is also a debate for me because I choose to ride motorbikes for the solitude and to escape from the busy world.
Riding gear:
socks – two pairs; Cape Union Mart offers a sock very similar to the extremely comfortable BMW riding sock
buff – great for protecting and keeping your throat warm (or cool if the buff is wet)
ear warmer – First Ascent has a soft-shell ear muff that you can easily wear under your helmet
thermal gloves – First Ascent sells inner gloves that offer that little bit of extra warmth you need first thing
in the morning, without taking up much packing space
long johns and top – First Ascent Dermatec items make up a fantastic climate-controlling, comfortable suit that
works super well as a base layer in cooler conditions
UV protection sleeves – these double up as an extra layer in winter; my jacket sleeves always ride up and cause
my wrists to get sunburnt when riding on hot summer days
ear plugs – can subdue the constant buffeting of the wind against your helmet on longer journeys
extra thermal layer – First Ascent’s Matterhorn body warmer does well to keep the wind out,
particularly around the neck area; take a spare one along
motorcycling riding jacket – well ventilated, comfortable in summer and winter, well padded
with a removable waterproof, thermal inner to keep the chill and rain out (BMW Rally suits
are among the best, but look at the Richa range too)
riding pants – ‘comfortable’ and ‘padded’ are the key requirements
waterproof pants outers – easy to slip over your riding pants and boots (try First Ascent Dry-
Lite pants, and always go for a larger size that will fit over your padded pants and boots)
boots – comfort is the key here, but look for ankle bracing and support, as your ankles need
to be properly protected (BMW GS Pro boots are hard to beat for performance and price)
Jan ‘Staal’ du Toit’s listFor those who don’t know who Jan Staal is, he is the guy with the ultimate lifestyle: a farmer near
Amersfoort in southern Mpumalanga by day, running Country Trax off-road academy by night, train-
ing motorcyclists on weekends, and enjoying the occasional week-long mass-mileage adventure into
Angola or around South Africa every other month. When I asked him for a list of his key items for a
motorcycle adventure, he replied in one breath: ‘GPS, Leatherman, tow rope, tyre-repair kit, tools,
rain suit, headlamp, buff, small spade and toilet paper, Pratley putty, passport, leather chamois to
clean visor, neck brace, proper jacket and pants, off-road boots, thermal underwear, winter/summer
gloves, camelback, earplugs. If you want to travel far and fast, travel light!’
Let’s break it down a little and add to it.
97
helmet – for long trips I believe a visor is key to keeping the sun’s glare at bay; the helmet should be well vent-
ilated and brightly coloured to make you more visible in traffic (when buying a helmet, always try it on and
leave it on for a few minutes; we all have different shaped heads and need different helmets to find comfort)
neck brace – I prefer the Omega neck brace to the more common Leatt brace; the Omega is more comfortable
and doesn’t put pressure on the sternum or spine in the event of an accident
gloves – always ensure your knuckles are protected – when I came off my Ducati on tar recently I was fortunate
to be wearing my BMW GS gloves with Kevlar knuckle guards, ensuring that
I did not lose two of my knuckles, which would have been the case had I not
been wearing gloves; generally wet-weather winter gloves offer little protection,
but check out the Richa arctic glove range as they are warm and dry and offer
knuckle protection
kidney belt – consider a quality kidney belt for your adventures; it’s amazing
how this belt can make you feel less tired on a long day’s riding
motorcross armour – can be useful when playing around in warm weather
conditions compared to wearing a heavy over-jacket
photochromic sunglasses – Oakley make the best photochromic lenses that change in the light, from ‘white
clear’ to dark depending on the light conditions (I wear my Oakley Jawbone photochromics during day and
night riding – you never know what might end up in your eye with your visor open; protect your eyes whenever
you ride, even at night)
gotowel – a bamboo towel that doubles as a chamois to clean your visor but is also a biodegradable, extremely
compact (the size of a casino chip) and naturally anti-bacterial towel; it is super absorbent and reusable; once
you wet it slightly it opens up to a medium-sized towel
hiking towel – First Ascent make a compact hiking towel that serves well as a
shower towel
hand sanitiser – great for getting your hands squeaky clean should there be no
water or soap nearby
toilet paper – self-explanatory
headlamp – a compact hands-free solution to enable you to fix your bike or set up
camp in the dark (check out the Black Diamond range)
backpack for water – First Ascent offers the Artemis 3+9, which packs in water and
other useful gear that can fit into a backpack
waterproof luggage – key to keeping your gear dry (my favourite is the Wolfman
range of soft luggage)
Off-the-bike gear:
compact trousers – denim jeans take up too much space; try First Ascent’s Trek Lite pants, which dry quickly
and zip off to offer you shorts or longs
rain jacket – I like to take a compact, quality rain jacket on long trips for when my riding gear is wet and I still
want to walk out into the rain at night (First Ascent’s Dry-Lite is my choice)
dry thermal layer – First Ascent’s Piranha pullover is a lightweight, warm winner
hat/cap/visor – take a hat of sorts to protect you from the sun when your helmet is off
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Camping gear:
sleeping bag – First Ascent makes sleeping bags and it is hard to beat their quality; check out temperature
gradings for where you are going and consider a compression bag or squeeze straps to squash the sleeping
bag down to its smallest possible size
mattress – even a thin camping mattress like the First Ascent
Comfort Light mat can make for a comfortable night’s rest without
taking up too much space
pillow – a compact pillow like the First Ascent Pack Pillow can
make a considerable difference to your sleeping comfort when
camping
tent – for one person the compact, lightweight and spacious E3 Gear Eclipse tent (it weighs only 1.7kg) is hard
to beat; the Black Diamond double-wall series caters for two, three or four
coffee pot – I always take along a Bialetti Moka Express two-cup
aluminium stove-top coffee maker
stove – my MSR Dragonfly stove takes various fuels and even after ten
years of use is rather indestructible as well as being compact, reliable
and lightweight
tarpaulin – with eyelets for shade, shelter and groundsheet; this simple
but bulky item can provide a lean-to alongside your bike or a tree, as
well as being a large groundsheet
Bike stuff:
tool kit – includes Leatherman Wave (Leatherman has a wide range to choose from, but this is my choice
based on a weight-versus-options decision)
tow rope
CruzTOOLS® kit – includes everything you need, custom-made per bike
Pratley® putty – for all those hard-core repairs where you need to bond metals together
tyre-repair kit – spare tube for tubed tyres; for tubeless tyres, bombs are a compressed
way to inflate your tyres (do beware, as they go ice cold instantaneously and freeze-
stick to your fingers – rather painful, I hear)
air compressor – good in remote areas as it allows you to reinflate your tyres anywhere
(you will need an accessory power point to run this compressor, particularly on most
BMW motorcycles; Wild@Heart Adventure supplies a complete kit for most bikes)
Emergency kit:
first-aid kit
space blanket
hand warmer tablets – available at Cape Union Mart; also good to warm up a sleeping bag on a cold night
painkillers
personal medication
water
basic food snacks – like peanuts, chocolate, biscuits
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WOLFMAN LUGGAGE
Essentials:
wallet – with cash, driver’s license, credit card
cellphone
waterproof bag for cellphone – I find a zip-lock plastic food bag works well; a
policeman at a fuel station once recommended a condom for the job –
I’m still not convinced about that but it does make sense, I guess
cellphone charger – don’t forget the two-prong adaptor
contact information – always carry emergency contact information which is
easily discoverable should you be involved in an accident (I like the ICE ID
bracelet, www.iceid.co.za, or carry information in the visible section of your riding jacket sleeve should it have
one); should you need to have a motorcycle recovered, whether it is a breakdown or accident, you can call
Steve ‘the bike trailer guy’ on 072 929 2198 – he works nationally and is approved by many insurers; the
other important number is the BMW Motorrad breakdown service number: call the 24-hour BMW Customer
Contact Centre toll free on 0800 600 777 or 011 541 7970 should you own a BMW motorcycle still within its
first three years of riding pleasure – a great benefit offered by BMW
Stockists:
Wild@Heart Adventure (www.wildatheartadventure.co.za)
Cape Union Mart (www.capeunionmart.co.za)
First Ascent (www.firstascent.com)
Oakley (www.oakley.com)
Including Swaziland & Lesotho
BIKE South Africa
BIKESouth Africa
Tar & Gravel Adventures in
Covers the region’s best motorbiking routes
On- and Off-Road Routes | Classic Scenic Routes | Mountain Passes
What to see | What to do | Parks | Accommodation and much more
byGreg Beadle
BIK
E So
uth
Africa
Tar & G
ravel Adventures in
I S B N 978-1-77026-294-2
9 7 8 1 7 7 0 2 6 2 9 4 2MAC/CPT/1111/TG/NB/RA
· Border crossings
· Camp sites & caravan parks
· Detailed distance markers
· Dive sites
· Ferries & bridges
· 4X4 trail positions
· GPS co-ordinates
· Hiking trails
· Historic battlefield sites
· Historic sites
· Lighthouses
· Major airports & airfields
· Mountain passes
· National parks & reserves
· National, main & minor route numbers
· Nature reserves & bird sanctuaries
· Places of interest
· Provincial heritage sites
· Selected accommodation
· Shipwreck sites
· Spot heights
· Toll plaza positions
· Whale-watching sites
· Wine estates
Includes detailed atlas