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Including Swaziland & Lesotho BIKE South Africa BIKE South Africa Tar & Gravel Adventures in Covers the region’s best motorbiking routes On- and Off-Road Routes | Classic Scenic Routes | Mountain Passes What to see | What to do | Parks | Accommodation and much more by Greg Beadle BIKE South Africa Tar & Gravel Adventures in ISBN 978-1-77026-294-2 9 781770 262942 MAC/CPT/1111/TG/NB/RA · Border crossings · Camp sites & caravan parks · Detailed distance markers · Dive sites · Ferries & bridges · 4X4 trail positions · GPS co-ordinates · Hiking trails · Historic battlefield sites · Historic sites · Lighthouses · Major airports & airfields · Mountain passes · National parks & reserves · National, main & minor route numbers · Nature reserves & bird sanctuaries · Places of interest · Provincial heritage sites · Selected accommodation · Shipwreck sites · Spot heights · Toll plaza positions · Whale-watching sites · Wine estates Includes detailed atlas

BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

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Many may argue that South Africa’s beauty is best viewed from behind the handle bars of a motorbike. BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa is just that – real bike journeys to far flung corners and back of beyond.This book takes the reader on a journey through a diverse landscape with 84 pages of bike tours from scenic routes and mountain passes to tough gravel roads and dirt tracks. It includes photos and detailed route maps, making it a handy guide to exploring small town South Africa. The book is a comprehensive resource for any traveller and includes full map coverage of South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland. Points of interest include accommodation establishments, camp sites, historical monuments, mountain passes and national parks. Each chapter contains regional travel info & facts, journey distances, "best bike to ride" info and a complete Q&A from experienced riders. Coverage includes Route 62, The Cederberg & West Coast Region, Little and Great Karoo, Baviaanskloof, Transkei, Mpumalanga, Swaziland and Lesotho.

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Page 1: BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

Including Swaziland & Lesotho

BIKE South Africa

BIKESouth Africa

Tar & Gravel Adventures in

Covers the region’s best motorbiking routes

On- and Off-Road Routes | Classic Scenic Routes | Mountain Passes

What to see | What to do | Parks | Accommodation and much more

byGreg Beadle

BIK

E So

uth

Africa

Tar & G

ravel Adventures in

I S B N 978-1-77026-294-2

9 7 8 1 7 7 0 2 6 2 9 4 2MAC/CPT/1111/TG/NB/RA

· Border crossings

· Camp sites & caravan parks

· Detailed distance markers

· Dive sites

· Ferries & bridges

· 4X4 trail positions

· GPS co-ordinates

· Hiking trails

· Historic battlefield sites

· Historic sites

· Lighthouses

· Major airports & airfields

· Mountain passes

· National parks & reserves

· National, main & minor route numbers

· Nature reserves & bird sanctuaries

· Places of interest

· Provincial heritage sites

· Selected accommodation

· Shipwreck sites

· Spot heights

· Toll plaza positions

· Whale-watching sites

· Wine estates

Includes detailed atlas

Page 2: BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

PAGE

The Thing about Adventure Motorcycling 4

Riding in Groups 6

About the Author 7

Route 1 – Cape Town to Prince Albert 8

Route 2 – Cederberg and the West Coast 18

Route 3 – The Ultimate Road Trip 26

Route 4 – The Greater Karoo Loop 34

Route 5 – Baviaanskloof 44

Route 6 – Rhodes Village and Surrounds 52

Route 7 – Transkei Meander 64

Route 8 – Pietermaritzburg to

Lesotho 70

Route 9 – Southern Mpumalanga

and Swaziland 78

Route 10 – Northern Mpumalanga 88

Preparation List 96

Maps 100

Map Section Legend and Keyplan 217

The One-Armed Bandit Rides Again 218

Contents

Page 3: BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

26

• 3–5 days of comfortable riding, exploring the Little Karoo, Langkloof and the Garden Route all in one trip • Road routes don’t really relate to technical difficulty, but this trip gets 10/10 for the enjoyment factor • Great riding for a group of any size

The Ultimate Road Trip

Durban

Cape Town

Johannesburg

Bloemfontein

SEE PAGE 100 IN MAIN MAP SECTION

PREPARATION LIST Pack rain gear no matter what the season •

Being a road trip, weight is not as critical as on •

the off-road routes, so pack a tent and sleeping

bags; keep your options open

APPEAL OF THIS ROUTE This route must be one of the most scenic and •

interesting riding routes in South Africa

Great roads with well-maintained surfaces •

throughout the year

Many mountain passes along the way to keep •

you smiling

Road bikesI love the variety of bikes and riders I see on the

roads – from the city scooter folk to a commuter

riding a scrambler (road-legal) on the N2 an hour

each way every day; from the Harley hogs to the

couples wearing matching kit on a shiny motorcycle

the size of a luxury 4X4 that includes such

necessities as a refrigerated top-box with vanity

mirror inside, a reverse gear and an ashtray. As one

of the Vespa clubs has shown (on a trip to Namibia

and back on vintage Vespas), you don’t necessarily

have to have all the bells and whistles to enjoy

touring the South African roads.

With only 10% of South Africa’s roads being

tarred, most of the fun on a road bike is to be

experienced in mountain passes, on winding

roads and – not to be ignored – the open desert

road. Plentiful passes and, in global terms, high-

quality tar roads make South Africa the perfect

road-touring country. Fuel supply is reliable,

the scenery spectacular and the locals friendly.

There’s also a variety of accommodation along

the way – something to suit everyone’s budget.

For me the ultimate road trip could only be in

the Cape. Having grown up in Johannesburg and

having travelled extensively via 4X4, I appreciate

the beauty of the ‘Northern Territories’ but every-

thing pales in comparison to the road riding on

our doorstep in the western and southern parts

of the Cape. This route, based on a 3–5-day trip,

will give you the option of cruising along and

stopping wherever you like or allow you to pack

on the miles of enjoyable passes and scenic roads.

My ultimate road trip starts in Cape Town with

an early coffee at the Engen One Stop on the N1

just outside the city. The Wimpy there actually

makes a decent espresso coffee, so after my

standard order of a double espresso with hot milk

on the side, I’m now awake and ready to ride.

Heading north on the N1, we take the first

Stellenbosch turn-off. Turn right and proceed

over the N2 into Stellenbosch. Following the

signs for Franschhoek, you will go up and over the

Helshoogte Pass, the first of many passes on this

trip. Helshoogte, meaning ‘hell of a height’ and

once called Banghoek due to the wild animals

scaring travellers, is hugely popular for Sunday

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27

BEAUTIFUL SCENERY ALONG THE WAY

morning runs with superbikes as it offers fant-

astic cambered corners that allow you to open up

once poised and lined up to accelerate through

your chosen line.

Ride past Tokara, a wine farm at the sum-

mit of the pass on a hill called Botmaskop. This

hill was where a sentry would once look out for

the arrival of boats in Table Bay, notifying the

residents of what is now Franschhoek to transport

their produce to the Cape Town harbour.

Cruising down the eastern side of the pass,

you will enjoy great views of Simonsberg on your

left and will pass the Hillcrest Berry Farm, a

surprisingly nice venue for tea and cake when

you’re in that frame of mind.

Look out for the speed humps as you enter

Pniel. Once you have passed Boschendal, you

reach the T-junction after the old railway crossing

where you turn right and ride into Franschhoek

on the R45. Take note of the sign on your right

pointing to L’Ormarins and the Franschhoek

Motor Museum. If you haven’t been to see the

fine display of motoring history proudly curated

by the Rupert family, make a point of going to

see it. It features motorcycles from early on in

history, and it’s fascinating to see how technology

in bikes has developed so quickly.

There’s a fuel station on your left as you enter

Franschhoek. Pick a coffee shop for your next

cup of coffee before continuing up the Fransch-

hoek Pass. This pass is just as dramatic as (if not

more so than) the Helshoogte Pass. It offers you

an unsurpassed view over the Franschhoek valley,

which is particularly spectacular in winter, with

snowcapped mountains. From here it becomes

clear why the early settlers called this town

Franschhoek – a corner of France.

The tighter turns and the views through the

mountains over Theewaterskloof Dam are sure

to add to your satisfaction levels. Look out for

Jan Joubert’s Gat, a bridge marking the end of

the Franschhoek Pass. It is the country’s oldest

stone-arch bridge, spanning 5m across the river.

When you reach the T-junction, turn left in the

direction of Villiersdorp and head through towards

Worcester. Be careful as you pick up speed head-

ing up the long straight out of Villiersdorp. At the

crest the road veers to the right rather suddenly

as the land before you drops away down to the

bottom of this short mountain pass. The scenery

is lovely as you come around the Brandvlei Dam,

where you turn right at Aan-de-Doorns and take

a little short cut to the R60. Turn right onto the

R60 and proceed to Robertson.

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THE VIEW FROM DU TOITSKLOOF PASS WITH TABLE MOUNTAIN VISIBLE IN THE CENTRE ON THE DISTANT HORIZON

TOP TIPOne tip that I was taught on riding through corners

is to focus on the horizon of the corner or as far

as you can see around the corner. This will allow

you to better predict whether you can accelerate

as you see the corner opening up or decelerate

should you see the corner closing in. This small

tip can see you increasing your speed and enjoy-

ment through corners while still riding safely.

At Robertson you can refuel and stop for

breakfast. I recommend the breakfast at Affie

Plaas, the first farm stall on your left before you

enter town. From Robertson, proceed to Ashton

and then on to Montagu. The short section of road

between Ashton and Montagu on the Kogmans-

kloof Pass will take you around ten minutes on

your bike, but be aware of what a struggle it must

have been in the old days when there was no tar

road or tunnel. The first pass followed a similar

route, although it had eight fords where the road

went into the Kingna River bed, including the

section where travellers had to pass around

Kalkoenskop (through which the tunnel now

proceeds). This was highly risky and lives were

lost when flood waters came raging down.

Kogmanskloof Pass was completed by the

legendary Thomas Bain in 1877. As you

approach the tunnel you will see remains of the

old pass to your right across the river. The tunnel

was blown out of the rock using gunpowder –

a very risky undertaking in those days, as

dynamite was fairly new and rather scarce. You

can proceed with relative ease through the tunnel

and onto the R62, admiring the folds of these

immense mountains and the colourful splashes

of lichen on the rock faces. Do be aware of one

particular corner just after the tunnel that can

catch you out quite quickly if you are going a

little too fast.

Montagu, built on the back of fruit and wine

production, is a really pretty town with great

accommodation options. I enjoy staying at the

Aasvoëlkrans B&B, a rustic but comfortable

country house with four garden suites. Don’t get

me wrong on rustic here. Clever use of industrial

windows and practical room layout make for a

tranquil stay, and the breakfast is delicious

(www.aasvoelkrans.co.za). Another great over-

night spot is De Bos, with accommodation

options that include a backpackers’ barn,

en-suite rooms and camping (www.debos.co.za).

Just north of the town you will find a healthy

Page 6: BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

29

supply of mineral-enriched hot-water springs that

attract many people here to relax for a weekend.

As you enter Montagu, look out for the Route

62 restaurant and farm stall on your left – they

make a great breakfast and you can stock up on

‘padkos’ (road snacks) here too. From here we

head into the Litttle Karoo, with the scenery vary-

ing between lush, fertile river valleys and the arid

openness of the Karoo plains.

Barrydale is the next place to refuel. The

Barry family started developing this town in

1882 as a church and trading centre on the farm

Tradouw’s Hoek. At the Barrydale junction you

have the option to experience the very beautiful

Tradouws Pass to your right. This pass clings to

the side of a rather large, deep river gorge, and

it’s worth a half-hour ride over the pass and then

back again just to enjoy the natural beauty. From

Barrydale, you can continue along the R62 to

Ladismith. Stop for a beer or cool drink at

Ronnie’s Sex Shop on the way – it’s well worth

the short break (see panel, page 9).

Ladismith was named after Lady Juana

Smith, wife of the governor, Sir Harry Smith. The

town (named Ladismith to avoid confusion with

Ladysmith in KwaZulu-Natal) was a booming

success in the early 1900s due to the popularity

of ostrich feathers, but the industry crashed in

1914, leaving the whole area bankrupt.

As you approach Ladismith, you will see a

significant mountain peak to the west, called

Toorkop (‘Bewitched Peak’). Legend has it that

a witch battled to cross the mountain range at

night and in her frustration split the mountain in

two with her magic wand. Today this rock dome

still has two separate pinnacles, looking remark-

ably different when viewed from either side.

Between Ladismith and Calitzdorp you’ll enjoy

the Huisrivier Pass, taking its name from ‘huis’,

the Khoi word for willow tree. This impressive

work of engineering was overseen by a civil

engineer named Graham Ross, who also wrote a

popular book that should be on every adventure

rider’s book shelf, The Romance of Cape Moun-

tain Passes. The challenge when building this

road was predominantly the risk of landslides on

the steep-sloped western parts of the pass. You’ll

see the vast retaining walls on your left as you

weave through the tight bends of this fine pass.

Calitzdorp, a favoured lunch-stop town, offers

great food and the fine port that the area is

renowned for. Handelshuis and Dorpshuis both

offer tasty lunch menus and prompt service.

From Calitzdorp you can see the Swartberg

Page 7: BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

30

SNOWY PEAKS BEHIND LADISMITH

KNYSNA LAGOON

Mountains on the left as you near Oudtshoorn,

named after the Baroness von Rheede van

Oudtshoorn, wife of the civil commissioner of

George. C J Langenhoven settled here in 1899,

practising as an attorney and becoming a strong

voice for the Afrikaans language. In 1918 he

wrote Die Stem, the old South African national

anthem. Oudtshoorn was known as the ostrich

feather capital of the world, and tourists can visit

the nearby working ostrich farms.

From Oudtshoorn, follow the N12 to De Rust,

a tranquil country village. Meiringspoort is one

of the main reasons travellers pass through De

Rust, but there are also the ‘Red Hills’, on Riet-

vlei farm just a few kilometres outside of De Rust

– a natural heritage site with red coloured open

caves. Here, conglomerate stone appears above

the earth. There is a hiking trail on the farm

which leads you to this phenomenon. Continuing

northwards on the N12, you approach another

natural highlight of the trip: Meiringspoort. The

history of this pass can be read in the Cape Town

to Prince Albert chapter (see panel, page 12),

and I believe this to be one of the most impress-

ive and one of only a few flat-road mountain

passes in South Africa. The pass has towering,

folded sides and crosses the river often, giving

you the opportunity to swim in a large rock pool

under a waterfall, very near to the visitors’ centre.

From Meiringspoort, I recommend proceed-

ing to Prince Albert for the night (see panel, page

14), or else you can turn back and then turn left

onto the R341 just before De Rust. The R341 is

yet another scenic, well-surfaced tar road from

which you turn right onto the R339 to Uniondale.

From Uniondale you can take the Uniondale

Poort, a rather astounding little poort, with

obvious flood damage where the powerful

waters have clawed away at the road’s edge.

On reaching Avontuur, turn left onto the R62 to

enter the Langkloof.

The Langkloof is the country’s second largest

producer of deciduous fruit (the Western Cape

is the largest). The R62 will be taking you along

a route that follows the classic ‘Apple Express’

railway line, linking all the towns and villages.

This narrow-gauge (610mm) railway line runs

from Avontuur to Port Elizabeth (its 283km ex-

tent making it the longest in the world) and this

famous steam train used to be the main trans-

port route for export fruit through the Langkloof.

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... the ultimate road trip could only be in the Cape ...

Squeezed between the Kouga mountain range to

the north and the Tsitsikamma and Kareedouw

ranges to the south, this road route offers some

special scenery, with the contrast of lush fruit-

yielding vegetation and a background of rugged

mountain peaks on either side of the road.

Joubertina is named for the Reverend W A

Joubert who was the Dutch Reformed minister

of Uniondale from 1879 to 1892. In the early

days of the town’s development, the Joubertina

Hotel was positioned outside

the municipal boundaries, as

the seller of the original farm

was a teetotaller who enforced a condition of sale

that no alcohol could be sold in Joubertina.

The R62 ends at a T-junction; turn left onto

the R102 to Humansdorp, where you can refuel

before heading to St Francis Bay for the night.

St Francis Bay was first sighted by Portu-

guese sailors in 1575 and is named after the

patron saint of sailors, St Francis. Worth check-

ing out is the nearby Oyster Bay lighthouse. The

lighthouse was built in 1878 to warn ships of the

dangerous reefs that stretch for more than a kilo-

metre out to sea. At a height of 27.5m it is the

tallest masonry tower on the South African coast,

and is now a heritage site. (Just check on the

condition of the dirt road before venturing down

there on your road-loving mean machine.)

St Francis Bay offers a large range of accom-

modation. My personal favourite is Heath House,

right on the cliff-edge overlooking the beach and

the Indian Ocean. It’s not the cheapest, but it’s

a truly special treat after a long day’s riding and

also great for two nights if you want a rest day in

between your riding days. Looking out to sea at

night you will more than likely see bright lights

shimmering off the ocean from a fleet of fish-

ing boats all harvesting chokka (also known as

calamari or, to the fishermen,

white gold) during the chokka

season. Also worth noting

is the Olive Tree Junction, on the road into St

Francis from Humansdorp, for tasty lunches and

decadent cakes. For more information, visit

www.olivetreejunction.co.za

Heading back to Cape Town, take the N2,

cruising along a quality sliver of tarmac that

slices through dramatically beautiful scenery all

the way to Knysna. Walls of dense, green forest

and ferns are particularly impactful alongside the

road once you pass over the Storms River Bridge.

I recommend a stop at Storms River Mouth, one

of South Africa’s best camp sites. You camp on

the rocks at the ocean’s edge, with the waves

crashing only metres from your tent. Brilliant

ablutions and a large restaurant make it a biker-

friendly camping establishment. As a day visitor

Page 9: BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

32

TOP TIPIf you should ever camp at Groenvlei, be sure

to take major mosquito repellant measures. We

endured the most mosquito bites known to man

in the space of 12 hours of camping with inferior

quality mosquito nets. This was a long time ago

but is still an itchy memory.

COFFEE BREAK

you can take a walk across the swing bridge or

enjoy a tasty breakfast.

You could also consider the alternative

route off the N2 via Nature’s Valley, with its

magical scenery and many twists and turns on

the Grootriver Pass. I highly recommend this

beautiful detour to take a break from the high-

speed riding on the highway. Watch out for

speed cameras at Plettenberg Bay before you ride

through what must be the most scenic region

of any national road in South Africa. Between

Plettenberg Bay and Knysna you pass through

the majesty and magic of the ancient forests,

ferns, big trees and trails that make this area so

attractive to all lovers of the outdoors.

Stop at Mon Petit Pain on your way through

Knysna for a proper coffee and delectable pas-

tries. Read more about Knysna in the Baviaans-

kloof chapter (see panel, page 45). Continuing

past Groenvlei and Swartvlei, Wilderness awaits.

The expanse of Wilderness beach draws your eye

away from the road signs, so watch out for speed

cameras before you climb up to Dolphin Point.

You then go down to the Kaaimans River and

climb up past Victoria Bay, another great camp

site and cool surf spot, before arriving in George.

Here you can choose your route back to

Cape Town. I recommend taking the N2 back

to Swellendam, then the R60 to Ashton,

Robertson and Worcester, and finally the N1 back

to Cape Town. Otherwise you could continue all

the way along the N2, up the Houwhoek Pass

and through the beautiful plateau of Elgin and

Grabouw before dropping down Sir Lowry’s Pass

back onto the Cape Flats to take you to the

Mother City. Alternatively, you could venture up

the Outeniqua Pass to Oudtshoorn and then head

back home along the R62.

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Biker: Greg Coetzee, 37, national marketing manager

from Pretoria.

Make and model of bike(s): BMW R1200GS, BMW

R1200GS Adventure, BMW F800GS.

Which is your favourite adventure bike for 3–5-day trips and why? BMW R1200GS. The riding position is

well suited for a very comfortable ride and enables you

to take in the scenery where riding conditions allow. With

a comfortable riding position you can cover longer dis-

tances without getting overly fatigued during the ride or

arriving in an exhausted state at your destination. I would

consider this a safety aspect of the bike.

Why did you choose this particular bike? The BMW

R1200GS is easy enough to ride for short commuting

trips through the traffic, offering you the ease of handling

to take on any traffic situation, and it’s also great for

longer-distance riding.

How often do you take a passenger? This is unfortu-

nately something I have never done, probably because

none of my partners has wanted to get on the back of a

motorcycle … not because I was the rider, just because

it was something they never wanted to do.

Do you prefer on-road or off-road and why? I enjoy a

mixture – on-road with gentle non-technical off-road

riding.

Favourite 3–5-day adventure trip: I had an enjoyable

trip up to Graskop, where the group I was with plotted a

mixture of on-road and off-road routes to and around the

area. Unfortunately I was just ‘tagging’ along, so at times

I was at their mercy in that they knew where they were

going and I didn’t. I would love to explore the Karoo area

as I have heard a great deal about this from other riders

and believe that you can get a happy medium of both the

types of riding I enjoy.

Tyre choice: No brand in particular, but multipurpose for

my style of riding.

Custom accessories you have added: I have only added

a BMW luggage roll. This is big enough, and completely

waterproof for all types of weather, and can easily be

swapped between different bikes without the hassle and

constraints of brackets that need to be fitted.

What are the five most important things you pack for a typical adventure? Camera – to show people where you

have been; basic first-aid kit; means of communication

like a charged cellphone; fluids for hydration and some-

thing for energy, depending on the availability of places

to get this on your route; and a detailed route plan.

What made you start riding a motorcycle? My cousin

lived and breathed motorcycling and he taught me how

to ride. It looked and sounded like great fun.

How long have you been riding? I have been riding on

and off for about ten years now, but I’m still a solid

novice! (I actually only started riding years after I was

taught, when I started working at BMW Motorcycles.)

What was your first motorcycle? It was a 1998 F650FL,

the facelift Funduro.

Highlights of your first bike: Unfortunately it wasn’t

mine, but it was intimidating in size as I hadn’t been on

a bike in years. I clearly remember the ‘thumping’ of the

single cylinder.

How often do you ride motorcycle/s now? I suppose

unless you commute on a motorcycle every day the

answer would invariably be ‘not often enough’. I try and

get out as often as I can, but on the other hand I have

the privilege of being able to ride different bikes as part

of my fantastic job!

Which foreign country would you most like to visit on a motorcycle and why? I was fortunate enough to have

ridden the BMW K100GT and GTL in Spain. Their roads

are superb, and for road touring the limited amount I saw

was just enough to make me want to plan a trip to see

so much more. The part of Spain I got to ride in, around

Marbella, had beautiful mountain passes, filled with

sweeping twists and turns to get the adrenaline pumping

and heighten the thrill of the ride.

If you could choose one model of motorcycle to park in your lounge just to look at, which would it be? A carbon

version of the BMW S1000RR.

Do you have any extra comments about your experi-ences, news, aspirations, memories, views or hopes for motorcycling? I hope that motorcycling can move away

from the stigma it has acquired because of a very small

part of the biking community who behave like hooli-

gans. Motorcycling gets branded ‘extremely dangerous’

because one or two of these hooligans

cannot behave and ride with total

disregard for their own and others’

safety. By changing this negative

perception of motorcycling I am

sure we can change

the public’s attitude

and increase their

awareness of the

motorcyclists out

on the road every

day, getting to and

from their destina-

tions safely.

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Preparation List

GPS:

This is my big debate. I am not keen on relying on a GPS, preferring to pore over a map book and remember

what I saw last night when approaching a fork in the road. That said, a GPS can be invaluable when exploring

a remote area with few roads. It can save you a lot of time and assist you in keeping your bearing. The other

bonus is that you are able to listen to music through your GPS should you have a communication system. This

is also a debate for me because I choose to ride motorbikes for the solitude and to escape from the busy world.

Riding gear:

socks – two pairs; Cape Union Mart offers a sock very similar to the extremely comfortable BMW riding sock

buff – great for protecting and keeping your throat warm (or cool if the buff is wet)

ear warmer – First Ascent has a soft-shell ear muff that you can easily wear under your helmet

thermal gloves – First Ascent sells inner gloves that offer that little bit of extra warmth you need first thing

in the morning, without taking up much packing space

long johns and top – First Ascent Dermatec items make up a fantastic climate-controlling, comfortable suit that

works super well as a base layer in cooler conditions

UV protection sleeves – these double up as an extra layer in winter; my jacket sleeves always ride up and cause

my wrists to get sunburnt when riding on hot summer days

ear plugs – can subdue the constant buffeting of the wind against your helmet on longer journeys

extra thermal layer – First Ascent’s Matterhorn body warmer does well to keep the wind out,

particularly around the neck area; take a spare one along

motorcycling riding jacket – well ventilated, comfortable in summer and winter, well padded

with a removable waterproof, thermal inner to keep the chill and rain out (BMW Rally suits

are among the best, but look at the Richa range too)

riding pants – ‘comfortable’ and ‘padded’ are the key requirements

waterproof pants outers – easy to slip over your riding pants and boots (try First Ascent Dry-

Lite pants, and always go for a larger size that will fit over your padded pants and boots)

boots – comfort is the key here, but look for ankle bracing and support, as your ankles need

to be properly protected (BMW GS Pro boots are hard to beat for performance and price)

Jan ‘Staal’ du Toit’s listFor those who don’t know who Jan Staal is, he is the guy with the ultimate lifestyle: a farmer near

Amersfoort in southern Mpumalanga by day, running Country Trax off-road academy by night, train-

ing motorcyclists on weekends, and enjoying the occasional week-long mass-mileage adventure into

Angola or around South Africa every other month. When I asked him for a list of his key items for a

motorcycle adventure, he replied in one breath: ‘GPS, Leatherman, tow rope, tyre-repair kit, tools,

rain suit, headlamp, buff, small spade and toilet paper, Pratley putty, passport, leather chamois to

clean visor, neck brace, proper jacket and pants, off-road boots, thermal underwear, winter/summer

gloves, camelback, earplugs. If you want to travel far and fast, travel light!’

Let’s break it down a little and add to it.

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helmet – for long trips I believe a visor is key to keeping the sun’s glare at bay; the helmet should be well vent-

ilated and brightly coloured to make you more visible in traffic (when buying a helmet, always try it on and

leave it on for a few minutes; we all have different shaped heads and need different helmets to find comfort)

neck brace – I prefer the Omega neck brace to the more common Leatt brace; the Omega is more comfortable

and doesn’t put pressure on the sternum or spine in the event of an accident

gloves – always ensure your knuckles are protected – when I came off my Ducati on tar recently I was fortunate

to be wearing my BMW GS gloves with Kevlar knuckle guards, ensuring that

I did not lose two of my knuckles, which would have been the case had I not

been wearing gloves; generally wet-weather winter gloves offer little protection,

but check out the Richa arctic glove range as they are warm and dry and offer

knuckle protection

kidney belt – consider a quality kidney belt for your adventures; it’s amazing

how this belt can make you feel less tired on a long day’s riding

motorcross armour – can be useful when playing around in warm weather

conditions compared to wearing a heavy over-jacket

photochromic sunglasses – Oakley make the best photochromic lenses that change in the light, from ‘white

clear’ to dark depending on the light conditions (I wear my Oakley Jawbone photochromics during day and

night riding – you never know what might end up in your eye with your visor open; protect your eyes whenever

you ride, even at night)

gotowel – a bamboo towel that doubles as a chamois to clean your visor but is also a biodegradable, extremely

compact (the size of a casino chip) and naturally anti-bacterial towel; it is super absorbent and reusable; once

you wet it slightly it opens up to a medium-sized towel

hiking towel – First Ascent make a compact hiking towel that serves well as a

shower towel

hand sanitiser – great for getting your hands squeaky clean should there be no

water or soap nearby

toilet paper – self-explanatory

headlamp – a compact hands-free solution to enable you to fix your bike or set up

camp in the dark (check out the Black Diamond range)

backpack for water – First Ascent offers the Artemis 3+9, which packs in water and

other useful gear that can fit into a backpack

waterproof luggage – key to keeping your gear dry (my favourite is the Wolfman

range of soft luggage)

Off-the-bike gear:

compact trousers – denim jeans take up too much space; try First Ascent’s Trek Lite pants, which dry quickly

and zip off to offer you shorts or longs

rain jacket – I like to take a compact, quality rain jacket on long trips for when my riding gear is wet and I still

want to walk out into the rain at night (First Ascent’s Dry-Lite is my choice)

dry thermal layer – First Ascent’s Piranha pullover is a lightweight, warm winner

hat/cap/visor – take a hat of sorts to protect you from the sun when your helmet is off

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98

Camping gear:

sleeping bag – First Ascent makes sleeping bags and it is hard to beat their quality; check out temperature

gradings for where you are going and consider a compression bag or squeeze straps to squash the sleeping

bag down to its smallest possible size

mattress – even a thin camping mattress like the First Ascent

Comfort Light mat can make for a comfortable night’s rest without

taking up too much space

pillow – a compact pillow like the First Ascent Pack Pillow can

make a considerable difference to your sleeping comfort when

camping

tent – for one person the compact, lightweight and spacious E3 Gear Eclipse tent (it weighs only 1.7kg) is hard

to beat; the Black Diamond double-wall series caters for two, three or four

coffee pot – I always take along a Bialetti Moka Express two-cup

aluminium stove-top coffee maker

stove – my MSR Dragonfly stove takes various fuels and even after ten

years of use is rather indestructible as well as being compact, reliable

and lightweight

tarpaulin – with eyelets for shade, shelter and groundsheet; this simple

but bulky item can provide a lean-to alongside your bike or a tree, as

well as being a large groundsheet

Bike stuff:

tool kit – includes Leatherman Wave (Leatherman has a wide range to choose from, but this is my choice

based on a weight-versus-options decision)

tow rope

CruzTOOLS® kit – includes everything you need, custom-made per bike

Pratley® putty – for all those hard-core repairs where you need to bond metals together

tyre-repair kit – spare tube for tubed tyres; for tubeless tyres, bombs are a compressed

way to inflate your tyres (do beware, as they go ice cold instantaneously and freeze-

stick to your fingers – rather painful, I hear)

air compressor – good in remote areas as it allows you to reinflate your tyres anywhere

(you will need an accessory power point to run this compressor, particularly on most

BMW motorcycles; Wild@Heart Adventure supplies a complete kit for most bikes)

Emergency kit:

first-aid kit

space blanket

hand warmer tablets – available at Cape Union Mart; also good to warm up a sleeping bag on a cold night

painkillers

personal medication

water

basic food snacks – like peanuts, chocolate, biscuits

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99

WOLFMAN LUGGAGE

Essentials:

wallet – with cash, driver’s license, credit card

cellphone

waterproof bag for cellphone – I find a zip-lock plastic food bag works well; a

policeman at a fuel station once recommended a condom for the job –

I’m still not convinced about that but it does make sense, I guess

cellphone charger – don’t forget the two-prong adaptor

contact information – always carry emergency contact information which is

easily discoverable should you be involved in an accident (I like the ICE ID

bracelet, www.iceid.co.za, or carry information in the visible section of your riding jacket sleeve should it have

one); should you need to have a motorcycle recovered, whether it is a breakdown or accident, you can call

Steve ‘the bike trailer guy’ on 072 929 2198 – he works nationally and is approved by many insurers; the

other important number is the BMW Motorrad breakdown service number: call the 24-hour BMW Customer

Contact Centre toll free on 0800 600 777 or 011 541 7970 should you own a BMW motorcycle still within its

first three years of riding pleasure – a great benefit offered by BMW

Stockists:

Wild@Heart Adventure (www.wildatheartadventure.co.za)

Cape Union Mart (www.capeunionmart.co.za)

First Ascent (www.firstascent.com)

Oakley (www.oakley.com)

Page 15: BIKE Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa ISBN 9781770262942

Including Swaziland & Lesotho

BIKE South Africa

BIKESouth Africa

Tar & Gravel Adventures in

Covers the region’s best motorbiking routes

On- and Off-Road Routes | Classic Scenic Routes | Mountain Passes

What to see | What to do | Parks | Accommodation and much more

byGreg Beadle

BIK

E So

uth

Africa

Tar & G

ravel Adventures in

I S B N 978-1-77026-294-2

9 7 8 1 7 7 0 2 6 2 9 4 2MAC/CPT/1111/TG/NB/RA

· Border crossings

· Camp sites & caravan parks

· Detailed distance markers

· Dive sites

· Ferries & bridges

· 4X4 trail positions

· GPS co-ordinates

· Hiking trails

· Historic battlefield sites

· Historic sites

· Lighthouses

· Major airports & airfields

· Mountain passes

· National parks & reserves

· National, main & minor route numbers

· Nature reserves & bird sanctuaries

· Places of interest

· Provincial heritage sites

· Selected accommodation

· Shipwreck sites

· Spot heights

· Toll plaza positions

· Whale-watching sites

· Wine estates

Includes detailed atlas