Biotechnology in Textiles 240305

8/4/2019 Biotechnology in Textiles 240305

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Biotechnology in Textiles

Rossari Biotech, Mumbai


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BIOTECHNOLOGY - The Application of Nature'sToolset

Examples of Biotechnology

Bio-based polymers

Enzymes for the textile industry

Market penetration

TimeToday

Effluent Decolourisation


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ENVIRONMENT: Decreasing the Footprint

Impact of BIOTECHNOLOGY

Renewable feed-

stock

Increased energy

and process

efficiency

Reduction of:

Greenhouse gas emissions Emissions to water

Emissions to air

Resource usage


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Bio-Based POLYMERS

NatureWorks

Bio-degradable polymer

made from corn

Sorona

Polymer based ondextrose from corn

Impact

Environmental

Economic

Currently competitive in

niche applications

Future competitiveness

highly dependent on

feedstock costs

Average reduction of fossil inputs

- 17% to- 55%


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Bio-Polymer Production(Cargill-Dow, USA)

Production of Polylactic acid (PLA) polymer from corn sugar replaces

petroleum feedstock.

PLA can replace PET, polyesters and polystyrene.

PLA is compostable. PLA is carbon neutral CO2 is recycled.

In the future, PLA will be made from ligno-cellulosic biomass.


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Effluent Decolourisation


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Why WATER a Problem?

Why a water concern when the planet has 71%

water ?

Problems

Scarcity of fresh water;

Needs of water for life preservation;

Needs of water in agro-industrial activities;

Development of a consumer society;

Cost of wastewater treatment, etc.


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Wastewater Purification Mechanism by Activated

Sludge

Equalizing tank Activated sludge Settling tank(equalization, (aeration) (separation)

pH adjustment)

Organic Microbes Sludge

Substances (anabolism, H2O, CO2,

catabolism) residual o.s.

In general about 90-95 % of the BOD load is removed;

The supernatant is discharged as treated water;

The activated sludge is re-circulated.


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BIOCLAR Process

The wastewater treatment consists in:- Aeration in contact with recycled activated sludge;

- Oxygenation;

- Sedimentation.

Characteristics:

- High concentration of sludge;

- Re-aeration of sludge in the second step.

Performance:

- Removal of more than 94% BOD, COD.


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ENZYMATIC Treatment

Special microorganism or enzymes: Ligninolytic fungi

Laccases

Cocktail of oxidoreductases

Combined procedures: Biological anoxic decolorization, aerobic combined with O3 oxidation (azo

dyes)

Activated sludge combined with membrane plant

Absorption and coagulation combined technology Fungal Laccase together with redox mediators


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ENZYMES

A New BIOCATALYST.An Essential Tools for Sustanable 21st Century Textile Industry


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What are Enzymes?

Proteinaceous polymers Made up of 200-250 amino acids

Catalyze chemical reactions - i.e. hydrolysis, oxidation,

reduction, etc.

Produced by living organisms - i.e. fungi

or bacteria Act as Organic Bio-Catalysts

Accelerate reactions by reducing activation energy

Enzymes are not alive

Are complex organic polymers Enzymes are Specific i.e. amylases act on

starch, cellulase on cellulose

Enzymes are Biodegradable


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Enzymes - A Biological Catalyst


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Manufacture Through FERMENTATION


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How Enzymes work?


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Types of ENZYMES

ENZYMECLASS

TYPES OF REACTIONSCATALYSED

ENZYMES

Hydrolases Hydrolysis of molecules anddegradation in some cases.

Cellulase, Protease, Amylase,Lipase

Lyases Nonhydrolytic cleavage of

degradation of molecule.

Laccases

Transferases Transfer of a group from onemolecule to another.

Transaminase

Oxireductases Oxidation or reduction ofmolecules.

Fumarase

Isomerases Conversion of one isomer toanother.

Glucosephoshate, Isomerase

Ligases Joining of two molecules withATP.

Glutamine, Synthetase


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Fading Backstain Cleanup

Biopolishing

Biosoftening - wool

Print washing

Silk degumming Bio-scouring

Bio-bleaching

Washing off Reactives

H2O2 removal

Effluent colour removal Fibre retting and carbonising

Detergent

Cellulases: Denim

fashion and colour. Special Proteases

Cellulases increase depth.

Colour yield & shrinkage.

Brightens colour.

Higher depth. Opens newer possibility.

Denimdifferent effects.

Reactive soaping.

Aids level dyeing, consistency.

Environment friendly. Processing flax, ramie, wool etc.

Blend of amylase, protease, lipase etc.

Enzymes - Textile Applications


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1. pH

2. Temperature

3. Time

4. Dosage5. Mechanical action

6. Auxiliaries used

7. Heavy metal impurities

8. Dyefixing treatment

9. Microbiocides

10. Various dyestuffs

Factors Influencing Enzyme Activity


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Factors affecting Enzyme Activity

Enzymes can be denatured by temperature and pH

Active (functional) protein Denatured Protein


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AMYLASES

DESIZING OF STARCH

AMYLASES

DESIZING OF STARCH


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Size Composition

Natural Sizing agents Starch and its derivatives,

Cellulose derivatives,

Carboxy methyl cellulose,

Methyl cellulose,

Oxy ethyl cellulose,

Protein sizes,

Glue, gelatin

Synthetic Sizing agents PVA (Polyvinyl alcohol),

Polyvinyl acetate,

Acrylic acid,

Polyester,

Copolymers of styrene and maleic

acid

Blends like starch and PVA etc.

Wax, Lubricants & other ingredients


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What is Starch?

O

O

O

O

O

OO

CH2OH

OH

OH

CH2OH

OH

OH

CH2OH

OH

OH

Amyl

s

(MW =

0000-50000)

O

CH2O

O

O

O

O

O

CH2OH CH2OH

OH

OH

OH

OH

OH

OH

Amyl

p

ctin (MW = 50000-

00000)


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Enzymatic Desizing

Alpha-amylase is commonly used to remove starch size

Hydrolyses the 1,4 glycosidyl bond of starch

Two major types of alpha-amylases

Conventional low temperature alpha-amylase

Thermostable alpha-amylase


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Enzymatic Desizing - Mechanism

Wetting, pH buffering, anti catalytic action

Swelling, penetration, cracking and de-stabilization of size

layers

Gelatinization

Enzyme attack - The enzyme takes the role of molecular

scissors.

Wash off, dispersion of the degradation products


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Starch Hydrolysis

Famylase E-amylase

pullulanase

glucoamylase

E -D-glucosidase

cyclomaltodextrin

D-glucotransferase isoamylaseexo (1 4)-E -D-

glucanase

Non-reducing D-glucosyl residue

Reducing D-glucosyl residue or D-glucose


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PECTINASEBIO-PREPARATION & BIO-

SCOURING

PECTINASEBIO-PREPARATION & BIO-

SCOURING


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Whole Fibre Primary Layer

Cellulose 94% 54%

Protein 1.3% 14%

Pectins 0.9% 9%Wax 0.6% 8%

Ash 1.2% 3%

Others - 4%

Concept of Scouring of Cellulosics using synergistic mixture of Enzymes & Surfactant

Lumen

Secondary

Wall

Winding

Primary

Wall

Cuticle

Cotton Structure

Bio-Scouring of Cotton


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Bio-Scouring - Comparison

Bio-Scouring Conventional

Dosage

(g/kg cotton) .3 3

pH Neutral Alkaline

Energy

(kcal/kg cotton) 1 , 23,

Environmental Impact No Yes

ater m3/t cotton . 4.2


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Conventional Scouring - Pros & Cons

ADVANTAGES

Efficient in continuous padprocess

Superior whiteness

Mote removal

DISADVANTAGES

Hazardous

Rinsing Cost (labour/water/corrosion)Effluent treatment

Alters morphology of cotton fibre

Higher weight loss


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CELLULASES

GARMENT FADING

BIO-POLISHING

CELLULASES

GARMENT FADING

BIO-POLISHING


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Cellulose

Cellulose is a polymer of Beta 1,4 glucose

Cellulose fibres Cotton

Flax

Jute Ramie

Regenerated

Rayon

Tencel or Lyocell


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Cotton

Primary WallNetlike association of chains

Lowest contribution to tensile strength

Target of both wear and enzyme treatment

Secondary Wall

Ordered crystalline micro-fibrilsHighest contribution to tensile strength


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Cellulase Enzyme

A S

A A D A N E U SE ND NG

D

A N

G ycosylation

O-Glycosylation

N

Cellulase Enzy e Endoglucanases

Cellobiohydrolases

Beta Glucosidases

Converts cellulose to smaller, more soluble sugarunits

Its a multi-unit enzyme that contains:

-a catalytic core

-cellulose-binding domain-


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Cellulase- Mode of Action

Endo cellulases (Endoglucanases)

Cut in the middle of the chain

Exo cellulases (Cellobiohydrolyses)

Cut cellobiose (DP2) from either the

reducing or non-reducing ends of

the cellulose chain

Beta glucosidases

Cut cellobiose into two molecules of

glucose


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Acid Cellulases/ Whole Cellulases

- Synergistic blend of enzymes designed to convert cellulose toglucose

From many fungal and bacterial organisms - i.e. Trichoderma, Humicola, etc.

Contains different enzymes.

Aggressive

Short Process Time

Wide Range of Abrasion

High Back-staining

Bluish cast

4.5

5.0

5.5

6.0

6.5

pH

40 45 50 55 60 65 68

Temperature oC


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Modified Cellulases

- Whole cellulase with proprietory process and formulationtechnology

4.5

5.0

5.5

6.0

6.5

pH

40 45 50 55 60 65 68

Temperature oC

Medium Contrast

Short Process Time

Broad operating temperature

Medium Back-staining

Medium Grey Cast

Good Salt & Pepper Effect


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Engineered Cellulases

Genetically modified organisms with reduced CBDs

5

6

7

8

9

pH

40 45 50 55 60

Temperature oC

Maximum Processing Flexibility

Premium high Contrast

Broad operating range of pH &

temperature

Wide range of abrasion

No Back-staining

Grey Cast


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Action of Cellulase

Cotton treated without Cellulase Cotton treated with Cellulase


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BIO-POLISHINGBIO-POLISHING


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Genetic Modification of Cellulases

High throughput Robotic screening(HTRS) to identify proteins fromEukaryotic organism followed bymaking enough functional protein andfinally commercialization

Genetically modified Organisms

Cellulase with Increased filter paperactivity Bio-polishing

Acid Cellulases designed for lowbackstain

Genetically modified cellulase enzymesfor a particular Endo glucanase activity

producing higher yields

Cold acting cellulases


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Factors Influencing Biopolishing Efficiency

Desired Benefits

Improvement in Fabric HandSmooth fabric surface

Enhanced Drapeability and softness

Improvement in Fabric Aesthetics and CharacteristicsRemoval of surface fuzz and pills, pilling preventionElimination of neps and motes

Increased lustre, brighter colour

Improved surface appearance

. and these benefits are permanent!

Fabric Type and Construction

Process Time

Equipment

Economics


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Substrate Type

Rate of enzymatic hydrolysis.

LYOCELL < POLYNOSIC RAYON < VISCOSE RAYON


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Considerations in Biopolishing

Fabric Strength Loss from Cellulose TreatmentCellulase susceptibility on substrates

(Linen>Cotton>Rayon>Lyocell)

Fabric weight and construction

Equipment, mechanical action

Treatment conditions and type of cellulase used

Shade /Colour LossSpecific to certain dyes and colours

Fabric BulkAdversely affected when treatment is not optimised

Accumulation of Lint in Tubular KnitsProblem worst when knits are over treated

EconomicsEasy payback with cost of high quality fabrics vs. enzymatic treatment


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GARMENTFADING

GARMENTFADING


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Denim Look


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Cellulase Action


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Performance Testing

Abrasion

Biofinishing

Strength loss

Back staining

Softening

Weight loss

Fabric damage

Cast


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Effect of Cellulase on Denim

Desired effects

Abrasion

Faded lookhighlighting seams,hems, pockets etc.

Softness

Contrast

Difference in colorof blue yarns andwhite yarns

Undesired effects

Crease marks

Uneven abrasion with whiterlines

Backstaining

Redeposition of indigo dye on

white yarns

Strength loss


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Characteristics of final look

Backstaining Redeposition of indigo dye on denim during cellulase wash;

masks abrasion and results in undesirable flat look

Abrasion contrast Difference between the colour of the blue warp yarns and the white

fill yarns in indigo dyed denim; highest constrast desired

Abrasion cast Typically gray shade/cast is preferred


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Cellulase - Comparison

Neutral Mild

Darker wash Even, homogenous

wash

No back staining

Grey cast

Acid Aggressive

More wash down

Patchy contours

High Backstaining

Bluish cast

Engineered

1.Moderate surface fn

2.Good wash down

3.Medium Backstain4.Nice salt pepper

5.Med Grey cast

6.Cold application

possible


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Back staining

Engineered Acid Acid Neutral


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CATALASEPEROXIDE

NEUTRALISATION

CATALASEPEROXIDE

NEUTRALISATION


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Peroxide Neutralisation

Completely eliminates residual hydrogen peroxide

By-products are completely inert to dystuffs and fabrics

No need to inactivate

Fastest Known catalyst


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Why Catalase

Ensures dye shade quality when using reactive dyestuffs and peroxidebleaching

Small levels of residual peroxide can visibly impact dye shade

Reduces the complexity, cost and time of using reducing chemicals to

neutralise residual peroxideResidual reducing chemicals will also effect dye shade quality; catalase is inert

towards dyestuffs

Conserves water when peroxide is usedSince catalase effectively eliminates peroxide and is inert to dyestuffs, less rinsing

water and time is necessary to neutralise peroxide


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LACCASE

BIO-BLEACHING OF DENIMS

EFFLUENT TREATMENT

LACCASE

BIO-BLEACHING OF DENIMS

EFFLUENT TREATMENT


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What is Laccase?

Catalyse the transfer of electrons from a donor to an acce

Laccase is an

..Oxidoreductase


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How oxidoreductase work?


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Chemistry of Laccase Bleaching

H2O

O2

Enzyme (ox)

MediatorRadical

By-Products

Indigo

Isatin

Enzyme

Mediator

Mediator


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Chemistry of Laccase Bleaching

Indigo

NH

NH

O

O

NH

Isatin

O

O

Isatic acid

OO

NH2OH

O

OH

NH2

Anthranilic acid

Decolorization


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Specificity of Laccase

It does not attack the cotton fibre

It does not effect sulfurIt does not effect sulfur--black dye orblack dye orincrease whiteness of fill yarnsincrease whiteness of fill yarns


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BIO-BLEACHINGOF DENIMS

BIO-BLEACHINGOF DENIMS


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An Enzyme Alternatives inAn Enzyme Alternatives inDenim Processing...Denim Processing...

HypochloriteAlkali + heat Pumice stones

DesizingDesizing AbrasionAbrasion BleachingBleaching

Amylase + Lipase LaccaseCellulase

Bio-Bleaching of denims


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Clean Finishes


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Abrasion Enhancement


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Backstaining Clean-up


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Destruct Finishes


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Cellulase / Laccase Bleach


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ENZYMATICWOOL

PROCESSING

ENZYMATICWOOL

PROCESSING


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Raw Wool - Composition

Wool is Kerateneous Fibre

15-72% Wool fibres

12-47% Fat & Suint

3-24% Vegetable matter

2-24% Moisture


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Carbonisation of Wool

Cellulases, Lignases and Pectinasesmodifies wool without damage

Reduce amount of Sulphuric acid forcarbonizing

Reduces effluent load

Softens wool

Improves colour yield


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Biosoftening & Shrink Proofing of Wool

Neutral / Alkaline Proteases softenswool

Enzymes combined with Chlorine orpolymers or Oxidative agentsproduces

Enhanced shrink resist wool Cashmere like feel and

Far less toxic AOX ,


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SILKDEGUMMING

SILKDEGUMMING


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Silk Degumming

Effective gum removal bycombination of Serineprotease enzyme & surfactant

Pepsin and trypsin Protolytic enzymeshydrolyses peptide linksproducing

additional whiteness, lustreand

Increased dye up take


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Enzymatic Modification of Polyester

Polyesterase

Eco-friendly eliminates

Caustic

Improves properties like

- De-pilling

- Hydrophillicity

- Size removal

- Decreases luster

- Improves stain removal


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Enzymatic Modification of Acrylic

The different groups of enzymes are involved in hydrolysis of nitriles

Nitrilases: Hydrolyse nitriles to the corresponding carboxylic acids

forming ammonia

Nitrile Hydratases: nitriles are converted to amides,which can be

subsequently hydrolysed using amidases

Hydrolysis of nitriles and amides is catalysed via thiol acyl enzymes

intermediate

AdvantagesBetter dye uptake

Imparts hydrophilicity


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Renders complete removal of various stains ,

greasy and soily streaks

Exhibit complete bio souring action on kitchen, hospital and industrial garments.

Eco friendly , easier and milder in action.

Works at neutral and slight alkaline pH ( 7.5 - 10)

Helps removing other proteinacious stains on

clothes

Detergent Enzymes

Summary


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Summary

Investigations so far reveal that enzymes seemunlikely to be toxic or eco-toxic

New technology might have increased enzyme

stability hence bio-degradability must be checked.

Genetic Engineering is either modifying the

protein or using recombinant microorganisms,

both of which have to be carefully regulated.

Biotechnology holds great promise for the future

as we are almost as ignorant about

microorganisms as we were 2000 years ago.


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Thank You!For Your Attention.

Documents

Biotechnology in Textiles 240305