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Fair enough

Mass produced high street fashions may be cheapbut they’re not always cheerful. Besides sweatshopabuse and poor quality, much of the clothing is sounoriginal we’re in danger of becoming polyester-clad clones.

If Primark doesn’t do it for you but you’re still aftervalue for money, vintage styles can offer someinspiring alternatives. Fashion guru Judy Bergerfounded the Affordable Vintage Fashion fair in 2005to put the fun factor back into retro. “When vintagebecame very fashionable the prices just went sky highand most of the events I was going to were a little bitdry and stuffy,” says Berger. “They were vintageevents set up in a really old fashioned way and so I decided to set up a bit of a rock and roll style fair.”

From Sienna Miller’s bohemiandresses to the cover of Vogue,recycled glamour is well and trulyback on the style map. Lizzie Cernikvisits the north’s vintage fashionfairs and second-hand shops to seethe affordable treasure on offer.Photos: Rebecca Lupton

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18 THE BIG ISSUE IN THE NORTH · 25-31 JAN 2009

By her own admission the fashion fair’s founder isa vintage addict and owns a vast collection ofdesigner and high street pieces from decades gone by.“A lot of it is inherited but some of it has been foundat fairs like this. One day I might set up my ownmuseum. I’ve got labels like Givenchy, Yves SaintLaurent and Gucci. You never know what you mightfind.”

With dresses starting from as little as £5 it’s easy tosee why these fairs attract so many people. Featuringmore than 40 stalls, the Affordable Vintage Fair offersvisitors the chance to explore racks of antiqueclothes, shoes and jewel filled treasure troves. Toattract a younger crowd, Berger has given the fair acontemporary feel, combining handmade designswith classic fashions from throughout the 1900s.“When I was at art college we used to buy old thingsand make things out of them. You can buy an oldpiece of jewellery for a pound and do whatever youwant with it. It’s so accessible and very versatile.”

Exhibiting her vast collection of kitsch andhomemade jewellery at the fair, Leonore Holderproves fashion doesn’t have to be expensive to beunique. Her stall, which sells everything from pinkplastic poodle rings to chunky 1930s costumejewellery, attracts bargain hunters looking for a blastfrom the past. “I buy old clip-on earrings andbrooches – that sort of thing. Even if they’re brokenyou can always make a new piece of jewellery out ofit,” explains Holder. “It doesn’t have to be expensiveeither. In fact very often you’ll find things here thatare half the price of high street shops.”

But with such an eclectic mix of fashions, how dobuyers know what to choose? Kate Longman, fairexhibitor and owner of Twilight Corner in Chester,advises vintage shoppers to hunt down fashions fromthe 1940s and 1950s. “Stuff from this era is becominga real rarity. It’s a great investment because so manypeople want it – all of it will start going up in pricesoon,” she explains. According to Longman, mosthigh street designs are recreations of older trends somany people simply look for the original versions ofmodern styles. “Some of the most popular piecesright now are the playsuits – they’ve come back intofashion in a big way and people are always lookingfor genuine designs rather than a Topshop replica.”

Maggie Harding, owner of Garbo Antiques, whichsells clothing and textiles, says consumers should gofor whatever they find attractive and blend it intotheir personal style. “I recently sold an early 1900smen’s cavalry coat to Vivienne Westwood. I think shewanted to use it as inspiration for her newcollections.”

While the affordable fashion fair tour has proved abig hit with vintage enthusiasts, you don’t have towait for the right date to shop retro. From classic1970s rock wear to 1990s-inspired Hello Kittybackpacks, the iconic Afflecks Palace in Manchester

“Stuff from this era is becominga real rarity. It’s a greatinvestment.”

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VINTAGE FASHION

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is a three storey maze of vintage treasures, old schoolmusic and jewellery to fit even the most unusualbody piercings.

For handmade designs with a twist, Katie Crush’sAfflecks-based clothing range pokes fun at the furtrade and mass consumption. Inspired by Tim Burtonand Dr Suess, her assorted collection began with aselection of felt animal scarves including Spooky Cat,Randy Racoon and Mr Fox. Sourcing most of hermaterials locally, Crush chose to design her ownethical clothing range after growing tired of the massproduced sweatshop trends.

“I don’t want to be fuelling a sweatshop. I don’t likethe idea that I don’t know where something has comefrom,” she explains. “The idea for my animal scarvesstarted out as an ironic dig at fur wearers but they’vebecome popular so I branched out to T-shirts andcushions.”

Leeds also boasts a great selection of good valuesecond hand and alternative shops. Established over10 years ago, Blue Rinse is the city’s original vintagestore. Specialising in men and women’s fashions, thequirky outlet has recently launched a new store onTib Street in Manchester. Other recommended Leedshotspots include Ryan Vintage, Pop Vintage, SpaceVintage and the Retro Boutique, which even includesfurniture, TV and film departments.

Away from the big cities, local towns usually offeran array of charity shops and you never know whatgems you may find.

“Charity shops have become the new in place toshop,” says Berger. “I grew up wearing stuff fromcharity shops and even if there’s nothing you canwear you can always find stuff and recycle it to makeyourself something new.”

Fashion fair dates30 Jan – The Engine Room, Liverpool John MooresUniversity Students Union31 Jan – The Hospitium, Museum Gardens, YorkSee www.vintagefair.co.uk.

FINE VINTAGES

Sarah Ruth BrittonI like the idea of recycling sothat’s one reason that I lovesecond hand stuff and vintagefashion. I hate the disposablePrimark culture – nothing youbuy is unique and it’s so badfor the environment.Best buyI really like Laura Ashley dresses. I found an amazingfloral one at a vintage fashion fair once for £8. Thissparkly 1980s cardigan was another great buy for £12from a fair.

Carole JohnstonI’ve been going to vintagefashion fairs all around theNorth West for a few yearsnow. The stuff you buy here isreally individual and you paya lot less than you do inmainstream shops.Best buyI once bought a pure silk velvet gothic dress from theearly 1970s. I found it at a jumble sale for just 10p butgot plenty of wear out of it; it was the same style asone that had featured in Vogue.

Hannah KiddI love the smell of older stuffand the fact that it’s original.Today I’ve bought a newheadband, which I only paid£3.50 for.Best buyThis old leather bag was just£17 from a fair and I use it all the time. It’s muchbetter value than some of the new leather bags, whichwill set you back more than £100.

Facing page: 1980s leathershorts and 1970s Navahowaistcoat from Glass OnionWholesale, feather headbandby Tallulah Vintage at theAffordable Vintage Fair.Above, left to right: MaryQuant body stocking fromwww.popmycherry.co.uk andthe Affordable Vintage Fair,1980s skirt from Glass OnionWholesale, 1980s silkVersace scarf is stylist’s own;1950s red dress, 1970s Guccibag and fake fur stole arestylist’s own, Kangol hat fromthe Affordable Vintage Fair,gold earrings from OnceUpon A Find in New York;1960s Laura Ashley dressfrom the Affordable VintageFair

Model: Martha Heywood(Boss Model Management).Stylist: Judy Berger.Hair/make-up: Lex Emilio.Clothing: Affordable VintageFair and Glass OnionWholesale.

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