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Patagonia • Punta Arenas • Puerto Natales • Torres del Paine • Calafate • Chaltén
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Recycle this paper: Pass it on!
FREEApril 2008
Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Information Magazine
SheepBlack
ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE
Torres del
Paine Questions & Answers’s
3rd Annual Big Rock Festival
Puerto NatalesApril 18-20, ‘08
TrekkingTo Tierra del Fuego from the equator, on foot.
(off the map).
®
April.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
2
Word from the front line
Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by life in Puerto Natales,
Chile (which puts the boom-boom in the zoom-zoom here in the ‘P-zone’). The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers. We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and
always remain the Black Sheep.
www.patagoniablacksheep.com
Cover Image: By Nelson Sanchez
pictured: Owen Mesdag above Glacier Grey, TdP, Patagonia
Published by Southern Cross Ltda.
Black Sheep Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Magazine
Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chileph +56•61 77090141
Publisher: Rustyn Mesdag
Director: Pilar Irribarra
Editor: Heather Poyhonen
Staff Writer:Carolina “CJ” Wilson
Sales:Sebastian Borgwardt
[email protected] Doorn
[email protected] [email protected]
Distribution:Mauricio Cortez
Bo HagemanTurismo Aonikenk
Anthony Riggs
Special Thanks:Pia Urbina
Steve Schneidererratic rock staffBill Penhollow
Webmaster:Carla Cuadra
© 2008 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in
part without consent of the copyright owner. Black Sheep design is a registered trademark ®
Printed in Chile.
Patagonia weather report
9:00 am 9:15 am 10:30 am 11:05 am
4:21 pm3:37 pm
2:01 pm12:19 pm
6:23 pm 7:13 pm 9:41 pm 11:47 pm
- Pilar Irribarra, directora
Terminó el verano y con él la fiebre de viajeros de todo el mundo que pueblan Patagonia en los meses más cálidos. Es ahora el momento para aquellos aventureros que les gusta
la tranquilidad y un poco de soledad, descubriendo paisajes con la sensación de ser las únicas personas que contemplan el lugar. El otoño es una de las estaciones más hermosas para disfrutar del bosque magallánico, el cual comienza poco a poco a cambiar su colorido del rojo al anaranjado y luego a los colores ocres y dorados. Los tonos otoñales, tanto de la Lenga y del Ñirre seducen y encantan aún al espíritu más imperturbable. Contemplando estos paisajes más de algún turista se pregunta ¿Por qué cambian las hojas de color? La clave está en que las horas de luz comienzan a disminuir, este factor es el más importante y el que controla el cambio de coloración, así como, la temperatura controla el brote de hojas, su tamaño y caída. Las Lengas y Ñirres, si no perdiesen las hojas para pasar el invierno, tal vez no podrían soportar la pesada carga de nieve sobre el follaje, y los requerimientos de agua y nutrientes no podrían ser satisfechos por sus raíces, que llegan a quedar en suelo
congelado por varios meses. Por otra parte, el perder las hojas es una herencia antigua, surgida bajo condiciones ambientales más rigurosas. Más allá de la razón el paisaje que nos ofrece el otoño en Patagonia es el sueño de cualquier pintor, toda una gama de colores en perfecta armonía. Inevitablemente el otoño nos anuncia la llegada del invierno y pienso que nuestros lectores tienen mucha curiosidad de saber ¿Cómo vivimos el invierno en Patagonia? Puedo decirles que vengan a experimentarlo, es una fabulosa aventura. En estas latitudes la escarcha se derrite al calor de una cocina magallánica o cebando un buen mate. Los paisajes son diferentes, la luz tenue, el viento cesa por un par de meses lo que hace muy agradable el caminar o navegar. En los meses de invierno la producción de centolla está en su pick lo que nos permite comerla muy fresca, realmente ¡deliciosa!. En las estancias la sobrevivencia para los animales se vuelve un poco difícil, el frío y la nieve son los grandes enemigos de la crianza, sobre todo en la estepa patagónica. La mortalidad producida por el frío es muy elevada, y se cuentan por centenares y millares en los inviernos rigurosos, especialmente en los campos de las estancias más retiradas de la costa. El
rigor del clima hace muy difíciles las condiciones de alimentación durante los meses de invierno, cuando la escarcha y la nieve cubren totalmente los pastos, los animales se ven obligados a desenterrar, con ayuda de sus patas el coirón. Pero al otro lado de la cara hostil de la pampa está la calidez de las ciudades patagónicas donde todo transcurre normalmente. Los niños juegan con sus trineos en las calles nevadas o patinan en las lagunas congelas, los amantes del esquí disfrutan del deporte blanco en el Club Andino de Punta Arenas o en la telesilla de Rio Turbio, Argentina (25 km de Puerto Natales) y hasta un gran“carnaval” alegra la noche de Punta Arenas en pleno Julio. Hoteles y hosterías reciben a los visitantes invernales y se ofrecen diversas excursiones de invierno con la posibilidad de divisar la fauna que baja de las montañas y que se hace más fácil de observar. Lo importante es contar con el vestuario adecuado para cada excursión, gorro, guantes y un buen par de bototos son amigos inseparables. En fin, con esta edición de Black Sheep damos la bienvenida a nuestra temporada de invierno 2008.
- Rustyn Mesdag, publisher
The winters in Patagonia are beautiful, and I don’t understand why the world thinks that the trekking season should only
last from October to April. It’s a shame for those of us who live here year round to see the town empty when we know what type of wonderful, winter weather is coming. Calm, blue, and crisp. Not a cloud in the sky, no rain, and beautiful mountain views as far as the eye can see. As long as you have all the equipment needed, the Park can be magnificent in the autumn and winter months! But now, unfortunately, we find ourselves nearing the end of the 2007-08 Torres del Paine season. Things start slowing down, including all of the services around Torres del Paine. This is the time of year where you’ll need to try to be ahead of the game to avoid unexpected problems. Here are a few things to keep in mind during the transitional months of April and May. The following refugios are already closed for April: Chileno, Seron, and Perros. Dickson closes on April 10. Refugio Grey and Los Cuernos close on April 30. Paine Grande will be open all winter. If you are staying in the refugios that remain open, you won’t have much trouble finding an available bunk (which
is nice). Remember, though, things change around here all the time, so contact the refugios directly for more details. (You can find contact information for the refugios on page 5.) The bus and transportation companies start changing their times, too. There will still be morning buses to Torres del Paine. However, the afternoon buses will be shutting down. From what we can gather from the bus companies, after May, transfers to TdP will be upon request only. Or you will have to hire private transportation. A rental car is always an option, too. The buses to Calafate are still running in April, if a bit less frequently. In May, there will be even fewer regular buses to Calafate. It’s best to give yourself some lead time to find out some of these facts by contacting the company directly when you get here. Programs, like the ‘up-river’ zodiac trips will be running, but not every day, and they’ll have a minimum passenger requirement. Kayaking depends on weather, horseback riding depends on availability and so on and so forth. All that being said, welcome to autumn in Patagonia. The leaves are starting to change colors, making for stunning scenery in the Park. The mountaintops will soon be covered with snow. Crowds in the Park dwindle, so you get to enjoy its many trails
virtually on your own. The weather will definitely cool down, things may start to freeze, and maybe you’ll even get dusted with snow while trekking. Dress warm and be safe. Be prepared to roll with the punches, improvise, and overcome. Don’t be shy on the trail. Talk with the people you meet about any news they might have. Word of mouth is always the best source of info while traveling. As the final weeks roll on, doublecheck all your reservations and transportation schedules with the companies directly. Now with less people in the Park, the trails are less crowded, as well as the campsites, which is great, but the down side to this is that there are not as many people around to help keep an eye on tents and backpacks left behind at trailheads and break spots. It’s best to keep a close eye on your belongings and not leave them laying around, out of sight, for too long. At night be mindful of how easily items may be pulled out from underneath your tent vestibule. Don’t leave your new Gore-Tex waterproof jacket out hanging from a tree overnight next to your trekking poles. Best to group your gear together at night, and tuck it away or even clip it to the inside of your tent. There’s no harm in helping people stay honest. It’s definitely not the season to be caught out in the backcountry without a much-needed piece of equipment.
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Black Sheep �
To
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s Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Time Time
Puerto Natales 07.30 Administration 13.00
Laguna Amarga N/A Pudeto 13.30
Pudeto N/A Laguna Amarga 14.30
Administration N/A Puerto Natales 17.00
Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971Puerto Natales 07.30 Administration 13.00
Laguna Amarga N/A Pudeto 13.30
Pudeto N/A Laguna Amarga 14.30
Administration N/A Puerto Natales 17.00
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242Puerto Natales 08.30 Administration 13.00
Laguna Amarga N/A Pudeto 13.30
Pudeto N/A Laguna Amarga 14.30
Administration N/A Puerto Natales 17.00
Punta Arenas - Río Gallegos Río Gallegos - Punta Arenas
Buses Pinguinos
Ph. 221812
A. Sanhueza 745
Wednesday
12.45
Buses Pinguinos
Terminal Río Gallegos
Daily
13.00
Buses Ghisoni
Ph. 613420
L. Navarro 975
Mon. & Wed.
thru Sat.
11.00
Buses Ghisoni
Terminal Río Gallegos
Tues. & Thu. thru
Sun.
12.00
Buses Pacheco
Ph. 242174
Colón 900
Tue., Fri., Sun.
11.30
Buses Pacheco
Terminal Río Gallegos
Tue., Fri., Sun.
12.00
Punta Arenas - Ushuaia Ushuaia - Punta Arenas
Buses Pacheco
Ph. 242174
Colón 900
Mon., Wed.,
Fri.
09.00
Buses Pacheco
San Martín 1267
Mon., Wed., Fri.
08.00
Tecni Austral
Ph. 613422
L. Navarro 975
Tue., Thu., Sat.
08.00
Tecni Austral
Roca 157
Mon., Wed., Fri.
05.30
Puerto Natales - Río Turbio Río Turbio - Puerto Natales
Turis Sur
Ph. 411202
B. Encalada 555
M-F:
08.15 & 13.30
Sat.: 11.00
Turis Sur
Av. de los Mineros, Central
M-F:
10.30 & 14.30
Sat.: 14.30
Cootra
Ph. 412785
Baquedano 456
Daily
07.30
18.15
Cootra
Av. de los Mineros 100
Daily
12.15
19.45
Puerto Natales - El Calafate El Calafate - Puerto Natales
Cootra
Ph. 412785
Baquedano 456
Daily
07.30
Cootra
Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily
08.30
Zaajh
Ph. 412260
Arturo Prat 236
T, Th & Sat.:
09.00
Zaajh
Terminal de Ómnibus
M, W, F & Sun.:
08.00
El Calafate - El Chaltén El Chaltén - El Calafate
Chaltén Travel
Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily
08.00
18.30
Chaltén Travel
Hostel Rancho Grande
Daily
06.30
18.00
CalTur
Terminal de Ómnibus
Daily
08.00
18.30
CalTur
Avenida San Martín 520
Daily
08.00
18.30
El Calafate - Rio Gallegos Rio Gallegos - El Calafate
Sportsman
Ph. 492680
Terminal de Ómnibus
12.30 Sportsman
Ph. 442595
Terminal de Ómnibus
20.00
Taqsa
Ph. 491843
Terminal de Ómnibus
03.00 Taqsa
Ph. 423130
Terminal de Ómnibus
09.00
Interlagos
Ph. 491273
Terminal de Ómnibus
04.00 Interlagos
Ph. 442080
Terminal de Ómnibus
09.00
Ch
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Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales
(allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park)
El Calafate 5 hrs TdP Laguna Amarga 2 hrs 30
Punta Arenas 3 hrs TdP Pudeto 3 hrs 15
Ushuaia 15 hrs Torres del Paine Admin. 3 hrs 45
Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas
(allow time for border crossings)
Puerto Natales 3 hrs Río Gallegos 6 hrs
Río Grande 8 hrs Ushuaia 13 hrs
Tr
av
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PT
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es Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Buses Fernandez
Ph. 411111
E. Ramírez 399
07.15
09.00
13.00
14.30
17.00
18.30
20.00
Buses Fernandez
Ph. 221812
A. Sanhueza 745
08.00
09.00
13.00
14.30
17.00
18.30
20.00
Buses Pacheco
Ph. 414513
Baquedano 500
07.30
08.30
10.00
13.30
19.00
Buses Pacheco
Ph. 242174
Colón 900
08.30
14.00
17.00
18.30
19.30
Bus Sur
Ph. 411859
Baquedano 668
07.00
15.00
19.00
Bus Sur
Ph. 614224
José Menéndez 552
09.00
15.00
19.00
Schedules may alter slightly for the winter season. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms, and conditions.
Patagonia Bus Schedules
April.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
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Leave No Trace in Patagonia1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you plan to visit. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit areas in small groups, or split larger parties into groups of 4-6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging, or marking paint.
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses, or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes and streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.
In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when it’s wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.
In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.
3. Dispose of Waste Properly Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.
4. Leave What You Find Preserve the past. Observe, but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants, and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures or furniture. Don’t dig trenches.
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Remember campfires are not permitted in Torres del Paine or Los Glaciares National Parks. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.
6. Respect Wildlife Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance. Never feed the animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times, such as during mating, nesting, raising young, or during winter.
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, and yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Don’t yell or be overly noisy.
Leave No Trace is a program developed by the U.S. Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the seven principles. For more information, please visit www.nols.edu.
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Black Sheep �
TORRES DEL PAINE
What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.
How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.
How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.
What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.
Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.
What’s the Park entrance fee?
15.000 clp (about $30 greenbacks USD).
How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs 3.500 to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free.
Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.
How much money do I need to bring in the Park with me? 15.000 enterance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 40.000clp.
Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes. You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.
Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though.
If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first?
Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.
Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise?
You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.
How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 17.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.
Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios?
Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season.
Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios.
Do I need to tie up my food in the Park?
Not really. But mice or foxes might get into your stuff. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you.
Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.
Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through
the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.
Should I worry about bugs in the Park? You will see bugs on the back circuit if there is no wind and some warmer weather. Bug repellent is a good idea.
Do I have to worry about making my reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine?
No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you, and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly.
How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.
PUERTO NATALES
Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.
Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can find them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too.
Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That’s a great question... You could always help and pick some up.
What about shopping hours midday? Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the supermarkets.
What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight.
What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.
Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.
How much do the taxis cost? 1.000 pesos within city limits.
What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!
It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bi-zarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.
Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?
Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.
What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...
What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town.
Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.
Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.
One-way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed)Round trip ticket $17.000 per person
Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, ChilePh: (56-61) 411380, Email: [email protected]
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS
April 2008* 12:00 p.m. 12:30 p.m.
*Catamaran stops running on April 30.
TEMPORADA 2007-2008 Regular Schedule
A comfortable & secure voyage across
Lago Pehoe...
Pudeto Paine Grande
Fot
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200
7 D
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?A free information seminar is
held every day at erratic rock at 3 p.m. in Puerto Natales.
www.erraticrock.comBaquedano 719 Puerto Natales, Chile
Torres del Paine, Chile • Q&A
Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, [email protected]
torres del painetested in patagonia
New clothing from the heart of Patagonia
+56-61 614310
Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. [email protected] Torre Norte and Chileno are closed. Los Cuernos is open until April 30.Torre Central is open until May 6.
Vertice +56-61 [email protected] Campamento Perros is closed. Refugio Dickson closes April 10. Refugio Grey closes April 30. *Lodge Paine Grande is open all winter.
Torres del Paine Refugio Information
Prices are in U.S. dollars*
Breakfast $10.00 Dorm bed $35.00
Lunch $12.00 Camping $7.00
Dinner $18.00 Sleeping bag $9.00
Full board $65.00 2-person tent $14.00
Mattress $3.00
*Prices are approximate and are subject to change. Winter rates will be posted by Vertice mid-April.
There have been some recent reports of theft in the Park. Please take care of your valuables, camp close to the refugios, and keep an eye out.
April.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
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Coupons & Discounts
5% off any program(cash only)
www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Aqua NativaSea Kayak Patagonia
Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 414143
E b e r h a r d 1 6 1 - P u e r t o N a t a l e s , C h i l e - p h 4 1 4 1 4 3
10% cash discount massage
This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1-hour massage. Valid season 2007-08.
cash discount 10% off
D o w n To w n H o s t e l
Armando Sanhueza 555, Punta Arenas, Chile
World’s End Books5% off any cash purchase
Blanco Encalada 226, Pto. Natales, Ph. 414725
Maps - travel guides - Patagonia books in English
E b e r h a r d 1 6 1 - P u e r t o N a t a l e s , C h i l e - p h 4 1 4 1 4 3
FREE coffee or tea with purchase of sandwich
Valid season 2007-08.
2 for 1pisco sour!Toore
Eberhard 169, Puerto NatalesBaquedano 719 Pto. Natales www.erraticrock.com
er rat ic rock
One free night if you wrestle and pin Bo.
Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales 56-61 414143
10% discount
INDIVIDUAL SPANISH CLASSES IN PATAGONIA
2 for 1 coffee
Patagoniax
Café & Books
Blanco Encalada 226, Pto. Natales - Open 08.00-22.30
Homemade muff ins
crepes, quiche, soups
2 Wheels + You Biking Outside Natales
In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far away” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera. If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the Park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “El Camino a Dumestre”). You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless ly they careen by the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. On a clear day, you’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Peninsula. If you come prepared, you can even camp along the beach. The law in Chile states that no one can own the edges of the ocean, fjords, or lakes. A two-day bike ride, with all your kit, is a great way to see a quieter (and cheaper) Patagonia. Puerto Natales claims some of the best views in Chile and should not be missed. Biking south, out of town, will serve you an unforgettable helping of eye-candy. If this sounds nice, but you’re still unsure, ask yourself this simple question: When do you think you’ll be back?
A picnic, a hike & views of Natales
Waiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? Love Puerto Natales and planning on staying here? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two-hour hike up Cerro Dorotea, definitely on the top of the list of activities around here. Pack up your camera, hail a local taxi, and ask them to take you to Mirador Dorotea. You should be able to swing a deal with the taxi for about 5.000 pesos to drop you off and pick you up again a few hours later. Or, if you’re not in a rush, you can just hitchhike. It’s a 15-minute taxi ride to the southern side of Dorotea. When you arrive, you’ll have to pay the woman who lives in the house there about 3.000 pesos. This gives you permission to cross her property, and assures that a light meal with tea will be waiting for you when you return from hiking up the hill. Boot it on up the trail. It’s well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point, you catch a great view of Natales and Seno Última Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif and surrounding mountains is gorgeous. After exploring the ridgeline, head back down to enjoy your lunch and chat with the property owner.
Bored with 5-minute rice dinners and dried pasta meals? Looking for an alternative lunch? Ready for a healthy, light-weight breakfast suggestion? Is there something that will help you survive cold Patagonian nights in a tent? Yes, yes, yes! Here are a few recipes to spice up your trip.
Bill’s Trekkers Breaky For a ‘W’ breakfast for two you’ll need...
1 box of instant oatmeal (Quaker, Avena Instantánea)1 can of Svelty powdered milk. (Don’t go for the cheaper brand. Your breakfast will taste so much better if you just go for Svelty.)1 bag of brown sugar, which you can find at the pharmacy.
Toss oatmeal in a resealable Ziploc bag and add powdered milk and sugar to taste. In the morning all you have to do is put your cup into the Ziploc bag, add some boiling water, and you’re ready to go for another day. For some variation, take a bag of jam or some dried fruit to flavor up your oats.
Wrap It Up For this alternative lunch or cold dinner for two, you’ll need...
1 pack of integral tortillas, which you can find at Vergel on Blanco Encalada
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Cooking Up Bliss in the Backcountry
250 grams of cream cheeseAji Pebre (some spicy goodness that you can find the small bottles, next to the ketchup) 1 pack of Serrano hamA handful of white raisins (pasas blancas)A handful of fresh cilantro
Mix the cream cheese with some Aji Pebre to taste and spread it on the tortillas. Divide the Serrano ham onto each tortilla, sprinkle on some chopped-up raisins, finish it all off with cilantro, and wrap these bad boys up. Provecho!
Candola If you’re in your tent with all your layers on and still freezing your toes off, consider walking up to the refugio and buying a box of wine. For this typical Chilean recipe you’ll need...
A box of wineSugarThe skin of half an orangeA couple of sticks of cinnamon And… to get out of that cozy sleeping bag to put up your stove
Mix all the ingredients in a pot, add sugar to taste, and heat until you can just drink it, but the alcohol is still in there. Sleep tight!
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Black Sheep �
2 for 1 coffee
Patagoniax
Café & Books
Blanco Encalada 226, Pto. Natales - Open 08.00-22.30
Homemade muff ins
crepes, quiche, soups
Blue Green Adventures
Bulnes 1200 Puerto Natales, Chile
www.bluegreenadventures.com
Torres del PaineTrekking programs
Departing weekly 990 USD
Wake Up & Taste the Pisco Sour In Chile, the food may not be sophisticated, but it’s delicious. There’s a wide variety of meats, in-cluding lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. You might even taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. But you’ll also find good, strong drinks and a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. There are many pisco-mixed drinks out there, piscola (pisco and coke) being one of the most com-mon. Pisco sour is the most popular pisco drink among tourists. It’s a good idea to try pisco sours at different places, because each restaurant or bar has their own touch or flavor. You can even find delicious calafate sour based on the same mix. But you can also make pisco sour yourself, in your hostel or once you get home.Pisco Sour
3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Powdered sugar 1 egg whiteIce cubes
Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it’s a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so pucker up!
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The University of Magallanes Puer-to Natales Campus boasts a climbing wall that’s open to the public. It’s 8.5 meters high (~28 feet), with three faces varying in difficulty. May-be you’re looking forward to climbing the Tor-res, bouldering in Cerro Dorotea or Lago So-fia, or just looking to stay fit for climbing when you’re not at high camp. Or maybe you just want to test out your climbing legs. Head on over to UMAG Natales (Camino Puerto Bories, Kilo-meter 1.5). Wall hours are Monday through Friday, 09.00-13.00 and 15.00-19.00. And it’s free! Once you get to the university, visit the office, let them know you want to climb the wall, and sign a waiver. You’ll need to make sure there are at least two of you doing the climb. They even have equipment you can borrow (ropes, harnesses, carabiners), though it’s always a better idea to bring your own if you have it. Enjoy the spectacular views of Seno Ultima Esperanza and the surrounding mountain ranges.
Getting there... Follow the road on the way to Torres del Paine for about 1.5 km (almost 1 mile). Turn right at the Remota driveway, but instead of going left for Remota, take the right fork in the road and follow it up the hill to the university parking lot.
Free Climbing Wall in Puerto Natales
How is the skiing and snowboarding here in Patagonia? Are there small ski centers with fewer crowds? Where can I access the backcountry? Here are a few suggestions to help you plan your winter travels in southern South America. The ski season in most of South America typically runs from mid-June to mid-September. Many ski areas will open early if they receive enough snow-fall. To avoid long lift lines and bigger crowds, the end of the snow season (August and September) is a good bet. Mid to late July is vacation time for most residents down here resulting in long lift lines and heated ski pole fights among groups of kids in line. Patagonia powder is mostly light and fluffy. And, yes, you’re likely to run into times when it’ll dump up to a meter of snow overnight. You’ll be ripping fresh powder all day long and loving life. But be prepared for these conditions by carrying some necessary items. First of all, you’ll need goggles to help you see better in flat light. Many of the ski areas here have no trees and during a white-out, you can easily become disoriented. If you plan on doing backcountry skiing you should go with a shovel, probe, and beacon or transmitter. And don’t forget to brush up some on your knowledge of avalanche safety. If you’re lucky enough to be in Patagonia during the winter, you might as well play in the snow at the bottom of the world. Visit the town of Ushuaia, Argentina, and ski at Cerro Castor, which is about a 30-minute bus ride from town. You will be amazed by the fantastic views and steep terrain. Half of the ski area is above the tree line and that’s where you’ll find
Powder Up for Winter in the Southern Hemisphere
Your Guide to Chilean Wineby Carmen Gloria Barrios Rojas
Carménère is on its way to become Chile’s emblematic and differentiating vine stock, just like the Malbec in Argentina, the Tannet in Uruguay and the Tempranillo in Spain. This vine stock has its origins in Burdeos, France and is used as part of the blend for the great Bordeles wines. In 1850 a ‘filoxera’ crisis, an insect that eats up the roots of the grapevine, was responsible for the disappearance of the Carménère stock in Europe. Because of good luck though, during the second half of the nineteenth century, a visionary Chilean wine farmer began to substitute the traditional Spanish wine stocks with varieties of French ones like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cot, Merlot, Pinot and Carménère, that was actually mistaken for Merlot and therefore planted together. Almost three centuries went by before its identification in Chile. In 1993 Mr. Jean Michel Boursiquot, specialist
in describing and identifying different wine, together with the Chilean wine specialist Philippo Pszcolkowski and wine expert Alvaro Espinoza, discovered that the Merlot in the wines of Carmen de Alto, was in reality Carménère. And that’s were the history starts being rewritten. It was concluded that apparently the grape had escaped the filoxera plague undamaged and arrived in Chile together with its vine stocks in the nineteenth century. Carménère has a rapid turnover and is an accessible and easy drinkable wine, liked by men as well as women and especially suitable for someone that’s a ‘red wine starter’. Thanks to its freshness and abundant taste, it is suggested with mild meat dishes with vegetables and fresh herbs. It combines especially well with lamb, poultry like chicken and duck, all types of cheese, tuna or whatever type of pasta and sauce.
some great off-piste backcountry stashes. If you want to see even more of the backcountry, you can hire a local guide to take you to virtually untouched backcoun-try lines. Just be prepared to hike for a couple hours to reach them. Also, Cerro Castor lays claim to staying open latest in the season until mid-October. Hop the border to Punta Arenas, Chile, and you can ski at Club Andino. This ski area boasts great views of Punta Arenas and Strait of Magellan. There usually aren’t any crowds here, and you’ll enjoy skiing runs lined by lengua trees. At the top of the lift, you might be tempted to take off your board or skis to take in the panoramic view of the region. Further north, you’ll also find some amaz-ing powder. If you prefer the larger ski resorts with hotels, bars, and discotheques, hit some of these slopes: Las Leñas; Cerro Catedral outside of Bariloche on the Argentinean side. Portillo; Valle Nevado, La Parva, or El Colorado outside of Santiago on the Chilean side. If you prefer something a bit further away from the beaten track, check out Termas de Chillán, Pucón, or Antil-lanca, in Chile; and La Hoya, Cerro Bayo, or Chapelco in Argentina.
Photos and text by Brian Wiley
The angle of skiing at the end of the world
Welcome to the world of Adventure.Welcome to Patagonic People Adventure.
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Bulnes 280 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412014 www.patagonicpeopleadventure.com
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April.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
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Hike. Eat. Sleep. Hike. Swim. Sleep. Hike. Eat. Repeat.
Text and photos by Deia Schlosberg & Gregg Treinish
12,100 kms.
Our goal is to backpack the length of the Andes Mountain Range, in the mountains.
We will combine a number of trekking methods including cross-country, point-the-compass-and-go trekking, following foot and horse trails used by the local farmers and tradesmen, skipping down the Capaq Ñan (the original Incan Trail), and ever so occasionally braving the train lines. Our desire is to experience the culture and environment of the Andes first-hand in a manner that we feel only the pace of walking can accommodate. We intend to learn as much as possible about the sustainable means of living that the people of South America have used for centuries, in order that we may teach what we have learned upon our return to the U.S. To the best of our knowledge, upon our successful completion, after covering 56 degrees of the globe, trekking more than 7,500 miles, we will become the first two people to backpack the Andes Mountain Range, the first to walk it without relying on roads, and Deia will become the first woman to have walked South America.
She said...
I am naked except for my shoes. Everything in my pack is in plastic bags and waterproof stuff-sacks,
including my clothes. I will need them to be dry in a few minutes. Gregg just made it around the corner and it is my turn. I dip my hiking-shoed foot into the barely-above-freezing water of Lago Invernada (Hibernation Lake is the translation) and feel for a rock ledge to put it on.
Perhaps I can do this initial plunge gradually and not have the wind sucked from my lungs as I submerge my entire body. No rock ledge. Damn. I pause. I go anyway, pack on my back, into very deep water, nothing to hold onto but the sheer rock walls that shoot skyward from the edges of the lake. Sure enough, my body does the standard lose-your-breath panic thing that I was trying to avoid. Oh well. I’m in, it’s done. The hardest part is over. I’m flabbergasted that I am in this situation, up to my ears in beyond-cold, but all I can do now is swim and swim as quickly as possible. The sun is setting, and we have a large glacially-fed lake to make it to the other side of or we succumb to hypothermia. There is only one choice. Keep moving, or keep moving. Honestly, I hear Ellen’s voice from Finding Nemo in my head. Am I really thinking about a Pixar movie while I’m in one of the most dangerous situations of my life? Absurdity! I am. This situation is absurdity. “Just keep swimming,” I hear in my head again. Fast! Fast! I’m very fast! My pack actually floats more than I expect. I thought it would push me down, but it is surprisingly buoyant. The only difficult thing about it is that I can’t lift my head up all the way, and I am getting more water in my face than I would prefer. But here I am and there is an edge to hang onto again and I can see Gregg and he has climbed out onto the rockslide. Just keep swimming. I’m so fast. So… Fast... Rocks under my feet now. Few more strokes. Climb out. Air feels warm. That’s not good. I follow Gregg’s lead and grab a shirt and jacket out of my pack and pull them stickily over my wet skin. Dripping. Goose bumps. Soggy shoes. Gregg is shivering. I will soon follow. We cannot
see around the corner, around the next vertical rock wall, from our little rockslide haven. We are not sure how long the next swim will be. We have to keep going. Or maybe we have to stay out of the water and warm up. But the sun is setting quickly and this is only possible with the sun’s heat. It’s hard to know what the right thing to do is. There’s usually a “right thing to do” if I listen to whatever that little voice is deep in there that knows what is smart and safe and what is a mistake. The voice, I think, is in somewhat of a dulled state from the low temperatures. I listen for it. Nothing. Gregg and I both look at the sun dropping behind the mountains. We have to go now. Yes, we are actually going to get back in the lake right now and bring our core body temperatures down even further. We waterproof our packs again. Gregg keeps his jacket on this time. A little mental boost I guess. I want mine dry for later. Plunge... Plunge... I’m doing this again. It’s not over yet and it won’t be for some time. I’m still in the lake and the shadows are long and we are now in the full shade of the cliffs. These cliffs that were not on the maps as being this close to the lake, the lake that has been dammed in the years since the maps were made, the maps that show trails around both sides of this now-flooded lake. It wasn’t supposed to be like this. Especially now. Especially after this last week we’ve had walking the desolate Chile-Argentina border, trudging through deep, wet snow, falling through ice bridges, getting swept away by rivers, climbing over sharp lava flows, pushing through a sand storm, rationing all of our food after not being able to stock up where there was supposed to have been a town. We researched. We have topo maps and a GPS and Google Earth photos. We did not go into this ignorantly. And here we are. Things change. No source can be trusted. Only the self can be trusted. The self that is right now propelling me through this ice-cold liquid toward the next rock-fall, where I can get out and get warm. I’m not even cold. This isn’t so bad. Here I am standing on rocks. Here I am out of the water. I want to get back in. It’s warmer in there. No. I know that’s wrong. Get out, get dry. Put on layers. Eat something.
Shoot, only one granola bar. 80 calories. Still shivering. Pull out sleeping bag, get in. Still shivering. Gregg and I pull out the stove and heat up some water for our soup broth packets. 35 calories. Plus the heat of the water. No other food left except spices. C’mon sleeping bag! Work! Am I thinking clearly? Do I have my coordination. A little sluggish, but yeah, I think so. “Gregg!” I call from the depths of my goose-down bag. No answer. “GREGG!” “You OK?”
“Y-yeah. You?” “Y-yeah.” “Y-you still shivering?” “Y-yeah, y-you?” “Y-yeah.” “I don’t think we can go anymore tonight. Not safe.” “I know.” “D-damn.” “D-damn.” I start pulling the sharpest of the rocks out from under me. I fit the orange granite chunks into somewhat of a flat horizontal plane like puzzle pieces. It will have to do. It does. We sleep on small, assembled ledges some 35 feet above the gently-rippled full-moon-reflecting surface of Lago Invernada. We will have a similar project to accomplish in the morning, as we are no more than halfway at best. We are safe tonight, but our rest is fraught with un-resolve and is anything but peaceful. The morning brings clouds and wind. Not what we need. But we are out of food and can’t wait. Without food it becomes very hard to regain our heat, so we must go. Same deal. It was easier yesterday when I just thought it would be uncomfortable. Now I understand better where my body’s limit is with temperature, and it isn’t that far away. I know what the beginning of the slope into hypothermia feels like. I know how long it takes to recover heat once you lose a critical amount. Because of all of this, today I have fear. But I also know that I am better prepared and safer for the experience. We plunge, swim a section, climb out as soon as we can, several minutes away. It’s colder today. We dry off, make hot flavored water. I scout out the next swim by climbing up and around a jagged corner. The swim will be far. Farther than what we’ve had to do, and I can’t see the end. It’s around the next corner of rock cliff, still. Once we are warm enough to continue, we do. Swim fast, Dei. Keep going. Fast. Move fast! I keep my thoughts simple and direct and don’t let worry creep into the water with me. We round the corner, see a small rock beach and more cliff before another blind corner. Gregg turns his head toward me and yells, “Keep going, or stop?” “Keep going.” “Keep going?” “Keep going!” We do. We emerge at a point of rock jutting out toward the middle of the lake. I can’t wrap my head around the strength it will need to keep doing this. We rip dry clothes out of our packs. Burrow into them. Gregg scouts this time. He returns after a minute and reports that we’re done. Done. We can climb the rockslide and the gravel beaches the rest of the way around the lake. We are done with the cliffs. We are done swimming. I immediately understand relief more fully than I ever have. I am elated. I turn around and look at the far shore of the lake, rivers of snowmelt pouring into it, cliffs rising out of it, steep snowy peaks above it all. I did that. I just did that, and it feels amazing. Nothing is in moderation in the Andes: temperature, altitude, steepness, to name a few, but most predominantly, change. When we set out on this project, this 7,500-mile, two-year-long attempt to become the first two people to backpack through the heart of the longest mountain chain in the world, we knew that
When they arrive to Cabo San Pio in Tierra del Fuego around May, Deia and Gregg will be the first two people to backpack the Andes Mountain Range.
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‘Gregg!’ I call from the depths of
my goose-down bag. No answer. ‘GREGG!’
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Black Sheep �
we would spend some time in scorching-hot jungle as well as atop frozen, wind-etched glaciers; knew that we would be breathing easy near sea level and sucking for wind at 20,000 feet; knew that we would have stretches on salt flats with no variance in terrain for days at a time and climbs so steep we would have to cling to roots and shrubs to keep from peeling backward off the mountain. What we didn’t know was that all of these extremes, time and time again, would be within a few days and even sometimes within hours of one another. In the very first section of the journey, we learned all too well that in order to finish this hike, we would have to be in a perpetual state of preparedness, ready at each and every turn for any condition or circumstance. That is to say, this is not a standard thru-hike. We can’t carry summer gear and then gradually change over into our winter gear with the seasons. We can’t leave our rain-proofing materials behind, as we often experience days of torrential rains at high altitudes, nor can we be without our extra water containers for those parched desert stints. We must have everything, all the time, plus a large dose of flexibility. That is not to say that we don’t cut corners wherever we can. The trick, and it isn’t so
easy to do, is to be prepared without over preparing, to be ready, without being excessive. In the beginning we tried to anticipate, but as the trip has gone on, we have learned not to expect. We have learned to accept.
He said...
We had walked late the night before, unable to find water and desperately trying to
make up for lost time. Waking up wasn’t easy. It had been a restless night wrought with both the hunger of a dry camp (we wanted to conserve our remaining lunches as we were unsure when we would again hit water), and the chill of a deep frost. We were camped on an entirely exposed and extremely rocky pass near 14,000 feet, high above the Río Manflas valley, into
which we soon would be venturing. We had found a small break in the rocks where some of the local guanaco (a species of llama) had cleared themselves an area, no doubt for the same purpose for which we were now using it. Sometime during the night, temperatures had plummeted below zero fahrenheit. Now, as the sun was rising from behind the next ridge, we both wanted to stay in our bags, where although we were anything but warm, we knew we’d be more comfortable than outside of them. Finally accepting that we had a long day ahead of us, we pried ourselves out of our bags and began loading our packs for the descent. We had done our research; the Google Earth pictures showed a beautifully clear trail through a canyon. It hadn’t rained in days, rivers were down and although we were about to enter a steep canyon with its inherent risks, this time we were golden. It would be a quick 30 miles out, and then hamburgers, here we come. We descended into the valley, admiring the fact that--after so long--we were still shocked by the vastness of the Andes Mountains. We found our trail soon enough and began what felt like smooth sailing.
The near-perfect, freshly groomed trail meandered a gentle slope between the sheer canyon walls. Until. Bam! We hit a wall of vegetation, of mud, of rock, of tree trunks, of gnarl. A massive flood, most likely caused by recent seismic activity, had destroyed our precious canyon-bottom trail, ruining our hope of getting to the famed Chilean vineyards waiting below anytime soon. We were once again forced to make the decision to bushwhack where we hadn’t expected to. For nearly four hours we had been fighting through the impossibly thick brush and quicksand when Deia’s normal grunts of struggle had turned to something far worse, something serious. “I can’t see,” there was more than a bit of anxiety in her voice. “I think I stabbed my eye.” She had visibly torn the lens of her eye and it was now flapping each time it moved past her lid. They didn’t teach us about flapping eye lenses in WFR class. Finally accepting the fact that continued bushwhacking would
keep us in the canyon for at least a week, we decided to set up a bivvy in a tiny clearing, hoping that somehow, some way, the morning would bring new clarity both with our situation and in Deia’s sight. Being more than six days from the last town and knowing that we had very little spare food, there was no choice but to turn our attention upward. Our best guess had the canyon walls towering at around three thousand feet above. The one chute worth attempting would take us up loose rock at more than a 60-degree angle. We began the precarious climb keeping sufficient space between us so that there would be enough time to react to the boulders that would inevitably be sent tumbling down the narrow treachery in which we were now traveling. Our voices echoed off the giant granite walls as we shouted back and forth, each time hoping there would be a response. Often we were forced to keep to the sides of the chute as the loose scree in the middle was far too unstable to ascend. Using every bit of the strength and technique that we have gained throughout this hike and our lives, we would eventually emerge unscathed and on top, totally without the knowledge as to whether the next
valley would be any different from the disaster that was the Manflas. We had progressed nowhere in over a day, were once again without water, desperately low on food, and entirely exhausted from the heat of the desert into which we had emerged. We refused to face another dry camp, another hungry night, and knew that however long it took we could not stop walking until we got where we needed to be. It was nearing midnight when we finally did make it to the dark moonless valley. And, man, those grapes tasted good! When deciding to live outside, without the barriers to the natural world that are the standard for so many people, a relationship forms with those aspects of nature that are normally reduced simply to ideas or words. Things like avalanche, desert, flood and jungle turn out not to be obstacles to be prepared for, but realities that need to be lived with. It is perhaps this metamorphosis in our thinking that has allowed us to
come as far as we have on this hike. We do not prepare for the next trek, we simply bring with us everything we need in order to live in nature for some time, with a perpetually broadening understanding of what “nature” really means.
About Deia and Gregg...
Deia grew up in the woods of Upstate New York. Since then she has earned degrees in
Earth & Planetary Science and Illustration at Washington University in St. Louis, volunteered in Europe and Africa, and worked as an environmental educator in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and most recently as a senior field instructor for Monarch Center for Family Healing, a wilderness therapy school in the Colorado Rockies. She is also a published illustrator, photographer, designer, and writer. Gregg is an outdoor enthusiast who lived and played in the Colorado mountains for the six years before he started on this trek. There, he worked as a
whitewater guide, ski instructor, preschool teacher, and senior field instructor for the Trailhead Wilderness School (now Monarch Center For Family Healing). In 2004 Gregg completed the 2174-mile Appalachian Trail under the trailname Skibum. He is a 2002 graduate of the University of Colorado-Boulder in Sociology. Gregg left Leadville, CO, to begin this journey. Deia and Gregg set out on their monumental trek in July, 2006. They expect to finish their trek in early May, 2008. To check out photos, learn more about their adventures, read the complete journal entries, or donate to help them finish their trek, visit their web site: www.acrosstheandes.com.
“I turn around and look at the far shore of the lake, rivers of snowmelt pouring into it, cliffs rising out of it, steep snowy peaks above it all. I did that. I just did that, and it feels amazing.”
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Bulnes 622 & Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile
phone 56-61 410931 & [email protected]
MOUNTAIN GEARRENTAL EQUIPMENT
INFO BY LOCAL GUIDES
Fono: 56-61 410429
EBERHARD 226
PUERTO NATALES
Patagoniax Café & Books
B. Encalada 226, Puerto Natales
Ph. 414725 - [email protected]
Book exchangeSecond-hand books
Bike Rentals
On Your Marks, Get Set...
por Juan Chaura Millán
Mes del Mar &Aniversario de Natales
Over 150 athletes from all over the world will participate in the 2nd Annual Kallpamayu Triathlon on May 10, 2008. The 92 km route will pass through the magical scenery around Puerto Natales: Milodon Cave, Eberhard Fjord, and Señoret Canal. The athletes will compete in four categories, and three activities: mountain biking, trekking, and sea kayaking. Competitors should attend an information meeting the day before the race, and on May 10 the kick off will take place in the Puerto Natales Plaza de Armas (main plaza). The mountain bike leg of the race will push off from the Plaza de Armas, and other participants will receive instructions there for transportation to the trekking and kayak components. “We have had a lot of interest from businesses, both from Chile and outside the country,” reports race coordinator Alex Aguilar Teneb. “Last year’s race attracted 133 participants, and given this year’s interest, we expect even more
Más de 150 participantes de todo el mundo, esperan concentrar la segunda versión del Triatlón Kallpamayu, que se realizará el 10 de Mayo, en un circuito natural cercano a los 92 kilómetros, los corredores y público se deleitarán del mágico paisaje que ofrece Puerto Natales, Cueva del Milodón, Fiordo Eberhard y el Canal Señoret. La organización ha invitado a diversas agencias, empresas e interesados de nacionalidades distintas, que quieren estar nuevamente presentes en esta competencia la que se realizará a través de cuatro categorías, para ello se contemplan tres disciplinas, estas son trekking, mountain bike y kayak. Los competidores tendrán una reunión informativa el día previo a la carrera, posteriormente el día 10 de Mayo, se concentrarán en la largada la que estará ubicada en la Plaza principal de esta ciudad, allí se darán las indicaciones de traslados de los corredores de Trekking y Kayak, ya que los de Mountain Bike largarán desde la misma Plaza de Armas. Esta nueva versión, espera superar el número de participantes que obtuvo en la competencia del año anterior, la que alcanzo a 133, de acuerdo a lo informado por el coordinador del evento Alex Aguilar Teneb, existe mucho interés de parte de empresas y en especial de particulares chilenos y extranjeros, que han asegurado su presencia para el día Sábado 10 de Mayo. Se va a contar con el apoyo de las diversas autoridades de la zona, quienes ven como muy positiva esta prueba, la que resalta el espíritu outdoor de la Patagonia, más aunque se enmarca en dos fechas muy importantes, como son, el Mes del Mar para el país y en particular para esta ciudad, su aniversario numero 97 que se celebra el 31 de Mayo. La segunda triatlón Kallpamayu, entrega el apoyo necesario de alojamiento y desayuno a cada competidor que no es de Puerto Natales, además de un guía para el reconocimiento del circuito en días previo a la competencia. La carrera se espera largar el Sábado, 10 de Mayo a las 09:00 horas, desde la Plaza de Armas Arturo Prat, para culminar alrededor de las 15:00 horas en la Costanera de la ciudad, posteriormente alrededor de las 21 horas en un lugar a determinar se efectuará la ceremonia de premiación, con la presencia de las autoridades de la Provincia de Última Esperanza. Para más información sobre el evento, contacta [email protected] o visita la página web: www.aventurakallpamayu.com.
Translated by Carolina WilsonTriathlon for the Month of the Sea
www.aventurakallpamayu.com
people to join us. We are counting on the support of various regional authorities, who have responded enthusiastically to the triathlon. It captures the spirit of the outdoors in Patagonia, and also takes place on two important dates: the Month of the Sea, and the 97th anniversary of 31 de Mayo, the anniversary of the city of Puerto Natales. We will be looking for volunteers to help with lodging for competitors who are not from Puerto Natales, and a guide to show them the circuit on the days before the competition,” continued Aguilar. The race will begin at 9 a.m. on Saturday May 10, from the Plaza de Armas in Puerto Natales, and end around 15.00 at the Costanera. Awards and closing ceremony will take place at 21.00, location to be announced. For more information, contact Kallpa Mayu at [email protected] or visit their web page www.aventurakallpamayu.com.
Adventure TriathlonNatales on May 10, 2008
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Arturo Prat 101, Cerro Sombrero, TdF, Chile - Phone 56+61 296696 or 56+61 212757 - [email protected]
Cerro Sombrero, Tierra del FuegoThe only real rest stop between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia.
Hosteria Tunkelen
The end of summer in the southern hemisphere experienced the collapse of a giant ice shelf in southwestern Antarctica. The Wilkins Ice Shelf is a plate of permanent floating ice that covers about 160 square miles (415 square kilometers) in area. The shelf first started to crack off in late February, when a large iceberg 25 miles long calved and floated away. Since then, even more is breaking off at an alarming rate. Now a large swath of the ice shelf is being held in place by a thread. Not only is the size of the breakage impressive, but also the sudden fact that the complete collapse of the Wilkins Ice Shelf is actually within the realm of possibility. Ted Scambos, lead scientist at the U.S. National Snow and Ice Data Center in Boulder, Colorado, said in a press statement: “The collapse underscores that the [Wilkins Ice Shelf] region has experienced an intense melt season. Regional sea ice has all but vanished, leaving the ice shelf exposed to the action of waves.” Air temperatures in this part of Antarctica have risen dramatically over the past 50 years, hastening the melt and breakup of several other ice shelves in the Antarctic. The Wilkins Ice Shelf
is the largest one to experience such widespread collapse.
What exactly is an ice shelf? An ice shelf (also known as shelf ice) is a thick, floating platform of ice that forms where a glacier or ice sheet flows down to a coastline and onto the ocean’s surface. Ice shelves, by definition, have considerable thickness showing 2-5 meters or more above sea level. The boundary between the floating ice shelf and the grounded ice (attached to land) that feeds it is called the grounding line. 44% of the Antarctic coastline has ice shelves attached to it.
What are icebergs? Icebergs are simply pieces of ice, large and small, which have broken off of an ice sheet, ice shelf, or glacier, and float out to sea. Occasionally, huge pieces of floating shelf ice break loose and drift away in the water’s current. These pieces of ice are called tabular, or tabletop, icebergs. They can be enormous, perhaps hundreds of square kilometers in surface area, and can drift for years before melting or becoming grounded. Icebergs between 20-30 meters are particularly common.
Antarctica Breaking Up Antarctica StatisticsSIZE
13,829,430 km2 -- 1.4 times bigger than the U.S., 58 times bigger than the U.K.Antarctica’s largest ice shelf is the Ross Ice Shelf: (about the size of France) 510,680 km2
ICEAntarctica has 70% of all the world’s freshwater frozen as ice, and 90% of all the world’s ice.The Antarctic ice cap has 29 million cubic kilometers of ice. Only about 0.4% of Antarctica is not covered by ice.
THICKNESSMean ice thickness: 1,829 m. / 6,000 ft.Maximum ice thickness: 4,776 m./15,670 ft.
POPULATION4,000 people on scientific bases in the short summer season. 1,000 people in winterAbout 25,000 summer touristsThere are no permanent residents, and there isn’t a native population.
DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATIONAntarctica was first imagined by the ancient Greeks, but not actually seen
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until 1820.The first time anyone set foot on Antarctica was in 1821.The first year-round occupation, including through the winter, was in 1898.The South Pole was first reached in 1911.
CLIMATEThree factors rule in Antarctica: cold, wind, and altitude. Antarctica holds the record of intensity for each of these things.If Antarctica’s ice sheets melted, the world’s oceans would rise by 60-65 meters (200-210 feet)--everywhere.Antarctica is the best place in the world to find meteorites. Dark meteorites show up against the white expanse of ice and snow and don’t get covered by vegetation. In some places, the flow of ice causes the meteorites to gather in one place.The cold and dry conditions in the “Dry Valleys” region of Antarctica are so close to those on Mars that NASA did testing there for the Viking mission. It has not rained in the Dry Valleys for at least two million years.
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...tell your friends. Don’t tell the guidebooks.
Sorightnowerratic rock([email protected])has4hostelsforyoutochoosefrom.ThemainofficeandhostelisatBaquedano719inPuertoNatales.Thiswaswhereitallstarted.It’s$7.000foraregulardorm(withahugegringo-typebreakfast).Theywillbeopenallyear.BillandRustynliveinNatalesyeararound,sotheymightaswellstayopen. InJunethehostelwill switchtomorebarebones ‘crashpad-style’service (subjecttoourownerraticwinterbehavior). Thenthereiserratic rock 2([email protected])Thisisthenicer‘couples’hostel,alsolocatedinPuertoNatales,atB.Zamora732.It’smorelikeabed&breakfast,withalldouble-roomlodging,privatebathrooms,andalltheextrasforalittlemoreprivacywhiletraveling.er2willbeclosingdownattheendofAprilforamuchneededbreak.MarcelaandSergiowereracingaroundallseasonandtheydeservesomedowntime. InPuntaArenas,youcannowstayaterratic rock Punta Arenas ([email protected]).That’sonErrazuriz567,abouttwoblocksfromthemainplazadowntown.It’srunbyPatoandhiswifeNatalia,twoofthenicestpeopleyouwillevermeet.Theywillalsobeopenallyear.Shootthemanemailorgivethemaring.Youcanfindabedanytimeofthedayornight. Thisyearwehadtoopenwhatwecallederratic rock 0.�.That’satMiraflores816inPuertoNatales.Thisiser’sannexandoverflow,the‘crashpad,’ifyouwill.Hereyoucanfindabedtosleeponwithyourownsleepingbagforasupercheapprice.Nobigextras,justacleanplacetocrashwithoutspendingtoomuch.erraticrock0.5willalsoshutdownattheendofApril.Areyouwonderingwhatthebigdealisabouterraticrock?Whatdotheydothat’ssospecial?Well,nothing.Theyjustlikewhattheydo.It’snotjustabusiness.It’salifestlye.Theyareactualtravelers,trekkers,climbers,andcitizensoftheworld.Thereisabasicunderstandingofwhatit’sliketofindyourselfatthebottomoftheworld,lookingforafriendlyfaceandanhonestanswer.Ifyouhaven’theardabouterraticrock,comebyandcheckitout.Wealsoholdafree3O’clocktalk(the rock talk)everyday.Ifwedidn’tdoitthisway,allatonce,wewouldbeansweringquestions12hoursaday.Thiswaywedoitonce,correctly.It’slikeaTorresdelPaineseminar.ItcoversthePark,weather,equipment,refugios,trails,excursions,food,trailtricks,transportationandanyotherquestionsyoumighthave.IfyouHAVEalreadyheardoferraticrock,hopefullyyouheardaboutusfromafellowtravelerandnotjustfromatravelguide.That’scheating.Ifyou’vealreadystayedaterraticrock,justremember...
www.erratic rock.com
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Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat; the grease on meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. We need it for energy while trekking.
A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use these products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left over greases on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue (impossible to remove without soap & water)... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fist-full of dirt, and scrub! The small granuals of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any difficult foods. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!w
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ith
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HOTEL
I’d love a Jacuzzifacing the sea and the g laciers
and a nice cosy bedand a cool place to readand a fresh locally brewed beer
a n d s o m e g o o d s i m p l e f o o d
and a big breakfast with some real expresso coffee
and to sleep in without hearing the vaccum cleaner first thing in the morning
SPA
Ladrilleros105 I Puerto Natales(061) 413 609 I www.indigopatagonia.com
Ban the Plastic Bags
If you weren’t catching up on your shut eye on the bus when you arrived to Patagonia, then you likely saw the horrific plastic bag graveyards around the major cities and towns. Thin, flapping bags wave from just about every bush that’s big enough to catch some wind. These plastic monsters are distributed with every single article you buy in these parts, their sizes adapting to the size of your purchase. Every succulent piece of fruit, every toothbrush, or postcard you buy will come enveloped in plastic, unless you object. An average weekly visit to the supermarket adds about eight new plastic bags to your collection. Looking at the plastic flags littering the landscape, one might think that folks make a sport of getting as many bags as they can just to see how
far the wind will kite them. A project to eliminate plastic bags from Puerto Natales stores has been in the works, started by Enviu Foundation and Fundación Patagonia. They started a campaign to give out firm, reusable bags instead of flimsy plastic ones. But there has been some trouble getting this project off the ground. A better idea to help reduce the amount of plastic bags distributed every day is to simply BYOB. Bring your own bag or backpack to carry your purchases around town. If every tourist refused plastic bags, it would significantly reduce the landscape trash. Then, would be only a matter of cleaning up the graveyards to once again enjoy the flowering calafate and mata bushes surrounding these pretty Patagonian cities.
Littered plastic bags blown asunder, trashing the landscape along Dumustre Road in Puerto Natales
Backpack - Check. Sleeping bag - Check. Tent - Check. Boots - Check. Gore-tex jacket & rainpants - Check. Sunglasses - Check. iPod - Check.
Do you ever wonder where all this stuff comes from? Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made? What happens before it makes its way to the store? What happens when you’re done using it? The Internet video ‘The Story of Stuff With Annie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line of consumption, from extraction to disposal. You need to check out this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do the same. Most of us are at least a little bit familiar with the gruesome statistics surrounding waste. In the Amazon, 2,000 trees are being cut down every minute. 80% of the world’s original forests are gone, kaput.With only 5% of the world’s population, the U.S. continues to use 30% of the world’s resources and produce 30% of the world’s trash. The U.S. government admits to producing four billion pounds of toxic chemicals every year. Individuals produce 4.5 pounds of garbage a day. If everyone on Earth consumed as crazily as Americans, we would need 3-5 planets in order to survive. The statistics vary slightly according to source, but any way you look at them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed, they’re there. It’s too easy to stay numb to the data, maybe because we already know it so well or we think we need our stuff so badly that we start to believe we can’t live without it. We only see the product part of production, the easy, consumable part. We watch ads glide across our televisions, telling us we need to buy more stuff, newer stuff. We eye what’s on the shelves in the stores, all so easy to buy, and so cheap, especially when you think about all the labor that goes into making the product. Metal mined in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic thrown in from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible. These days, the average American consumes twice as much more than they did 50 years ago. For a reason. We might think the consumer boom existed longer than we have,
but it was, in fact, premeditated and researched. American post-WWII retail analyst Victor LeBeau said, “Our enormously productive economy… demands that we make consumption our way of life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in consumption… We need things consumed, burned up, replaced and discarded at an ever-accelerating rate.” Coincidentally, America’s national happiness quotient has also plummeted. Could it be the mad cycle that consumerism calls for? Work till you drop. Watch TV to relax. Feel low because of the pretty people on commercials suggesting you be more like them. Buy more to be more like the pretty people in those ads. Work more to afford to buy more, and so on. We shouldn’t think of this as a purely North American problem, however. The maniacal cycle pervades many countries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If people created the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate a more sustainable way to live with our Earth. To find out more, take 20 minutes to view ‘The Story of Stuff.’ And recycle the information: Pass it on!
Earth. You are here. Participate.Learn more from ‘The Story of Stuff’
by Heather Poyhonen
Photo by Jim Esposito
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www.aquanativapatagonia.com
Aqua NativaSea Kayak Patagonia
Eberhard 161 Puerto Natales, Chile
ph 414143
Travel.Discover.Paddle.
Live.
Most of us are familiar with Africa’s fa-mous “big five”: the buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, lion, and leopard. However, few are familiar with the Patagonian Five (probably because I just came up with it to get published). Though they are not as big or danger-ous as their counterparts in Africa, the P5 prove to be just as unique and even harder to observe (except for the guanacos!). A lot of luck is needed to observe all five in the Park. Hopefully, the de-scriptions that follow will help trekkers in Torres del Paine be aware of what to look for and where to look for them.
GUANACO: A South American cameloid rela-tive of the llama and the alpaca. Sleek and strong, with brownish-white bodies and long necks. They are found in the steppe areas of Laguna Amarga, Laguna Azul, on the drive from the entrance to Lago Pehoe, and Laguna Verde. Guanacos feed on grasses, lichen, and shrubs. They breed once a year and give birth to their “chulengos” between No-vember and February. In the winter months they congragate in herds of up to 400 animals grazing in the Lago Pehoe area of the park.
HUEMUL: The huemul, or Andean deer, is a small, compact deer, that measures on average just 1.5 meters in length. They can be found on the road between Administración and Hostería Grey, near Western Boundries, around Lago Grey, and along the Pingo trail. The huemul is on the brink of extinction. Due to man’s forest fires and en-croachment on its habitat, they are now strictly protected. They are very shy and difficult to ob-serve. In 1834, the huemul was incorporated into the Chilean coat of arms.
PUMA: The largest of Patagonia’s predators, pumas are closely related to the North American mountain lion. Pumas thrive in a variety of habi-tats from Alaska to the bottom of Tierra del Fuego. It has the largest range of any of the big cats, and it can be found both inside and outside of the Park, from the steppe to dense forest. The puma’s only enemy is man. Though pumas are protected by law, they are still hunted by ranchers. Trekkers are lucky to see more than a track.
ÑANDU: Also known as rheas, the ñandu is a member of the ostrich family. They are found on the main entrance drive to the Park, and along the road towards Laguna Verde. There is no visual difference between male and female ñandu. The harem of females lay all of their eggs in one nest and the male sits on the eggs and watches over the 30 to 40 charitas (chicks). They are noted for their speed and zig-zag escape patterns. The ñandu is recognized as the Chilean symbol of the Magel-lan region.
CONDOR: The condor is the largest member of the Vultrine family. It nests on high cliff faces and soars over the entire Park. The black “fingers” at the tips of the 2.5-meter wings, plus its bright white collar, are the trademarks of this symbol of Chile. They produce only one chick every other year. The condor appears with the huemul on Chile’s national emblem.
The Patagonia Fiveby Bill Penhollow
Fancy some leafy organic local produce? Well, take yourself to the end of Baquedano (next to the pueblo artesanal). Here, you will find the “huertos ladies” selling their produce, which by necessity is grown organically. These market gardeners grow their produce in the “Huertos,” an area just outside Natales to your left as you are heading toward Punta Arenas. There are seven to eight different stalls, all selling locally grown produce. Each year, with the help of government grants, they are expanding the variety of their produce
and increasingly able to supply local restaurants and hotels with local products. They are usually only open in the mornings from 10-1 p.m. Some of the stalls also open on Sundays. They are currently selling carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, green beans, sugar snaps, broad beans, gooseberries, courgettes (zucchinis), cabbage, Swiss chard, coriander, parsley, with spinach, basil, and rhubarb occasionally available.You’ll also find homemade jams and free-range eggs. Support these local women, and buy some lovely fresh greens!
Get Your Fresh Veggies Here!
Sra. Irma del Carmen Barria Barria in her market garden stall. Sra. Irma has been growing vegetables in Puerto Natales for 32 years. At first she
sold her produce from door to door, but now has a small stall.
by Sarah Anderson
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Comenzó la temporada y apenas tenia un tiempo libre, la misión de encontrar una moto ideal. Un día vuelvo a Puerto Natales y justo aquí,
al lado de mi casa, estaba mi fiel compañera de viaje, “La Loba,” una moto perfecta que después de mucho esfuerzo y trabajo, ya era mía. El día 1 de abril salí desde Puerto Natales con rumbo al norte, con una ruta poco definida e improvisada; la meta final: Viña del Mar, región de Valparaíso, en Chile central. La ruta me esperaba, emprendí vuelo por la carretera al ritmo de los vientos Patagónicos, dicen por ahí que una motocicleta te hace sentir libre e invencible por el mundo. Así me sentía y atravesaba campos, pampas, sierras y pueblos escondidos
en medio de la nada. Tome la mítica ruta 40 Argentina, ese lugar en donde el horizonte se transforma en espejismo y el coirón, las rocas y algunos ñandúes, son tus únicos compañeros, la eterna e inmensa pampa Patagónica. Pasé varios días corriendo con ñandúes (en moto), y disfrutando de la soledad y tranquilidad de ese lugar. A los 1.300 km., de viaje app. arribo a un pueblito llamado Bajo Caracoles, en dónde tomo rumbo hacia el oeste, en dirección hacia la cordillera de los Andes, hacia Chile. Ese mismo día cruzo los
Andes a través del paso fronterizo Roballos, a la altura de la cuidad de Cochrane en Chile. Ya era de noche, cuando de pronto mi camino, solo una huella que bajaba desde los Andes, a través de enormes valles rocosos, se transforma en un campo abierto y rodeado de ovejas y galpones. En medio de la confusión me di cuenta de que había perdido mi camino hacia ya bastantes kilómetros y estaba en el medio de una estancia. Por supuesto tuve el agrado de ser recibido con los brazos abiertos por una familia chilena, que sabe muy bien como atender a un forastero. Pasé una noche en ese hermoso campo cercano a la ciudad de Cochrane, rodeado de bosque nativo y a orillas del poderoso Río Baker.
A la mañana siguiente tomo la Carretera Austral Hacia el sur. Después de andar todo el día bajo la lluvia y con mucho frío, llego de noche a Caleta Tortel, hermoso pueblo que está construido en terrazas y pasarelas de madera sobre un cerro rodeado de fiordos y canales, en donde desemboca el Río Baker. Continuo mi ruta hacia el norte, siempre por la Carretera Austral, rodeado de bosque nativo, con árboles milenarios, lagos de color turquesa, verdes y azul profundo, ríos de todos los tamaños y colores, ventisqueros y cascadas, termas y volcanes, realmente un paraíso terrenal, una reserva de vida y un tesoro que debemos cuidar, tesoro que está en nuestras manos y que debemos proteger y conservar. Pocos kilómetros al norte del pueblo de Puerto Cisnes, que encuentro bajando una cuesta llamada Queulat (tierras lejanas). El día era oscuro y frío, llovía y el camino estaba completamente solitario y barroso, ese fue el día del primer porrazo! Atrapado en el barro; pero el regalo de la naturaleza en ese momento fue una enorme ventana de buen clima que me mostró algunos rayos de sol que iluminaron la selva y los cerros que tenia en frente, justo cuando estaba en la parte mas alta de la cuesta, así pude ver todo el valle iluminado y verde, muy verde y siempre verde. Esa noche no era posible encontrar un lugar seco y seguro en donde acampar, eran cerca de las 23:00 hrs. y yo aun estaba montado sobre mi moto recorriendo ese camino desolado y extremo, finalmente sigo mi instinto y tomo una ruta alternativa que salía del camino principal, llego nada mas que al Parque nacional Queulat, ¡solo por instinto!, finalmente ahí encuentro un techo y un lugar para armar campamento. Estaba en lo mejor cuando de pronto se oye un enorme estruendo a mi alrededor, rompiendo de golpe el silencio en el que me encontraba, se trataba de desprendimientos de hielo que caían desde el Ventisquero colgante “Queulat.” Recorrí la Carretera Austral por completo hasta llegar al pueblo de Chaiten, ahí tomé el ferry a
Quellón, Chiloe. En este momento del viaje comenzaron a aparecer los personajes de la ruta, personajes que mas adelante serían claves para continuar con mi vida de aventurero. Pasó una semana y luego de un gran recorrido por la Región de los Lagos, llegé a la ciudad de Valdivia, era de noche y como de costumbre, llovía. Este fue un excelente lugar para dejar la moto a un lado, descansar el culo y carretear un poco con los viejos amigos y con muy buena cerveza local. Linda cuidad para dejarse encantar con los aires de la romántica costanera del Río Calle-Calle. Por que no, para visitar el pueblo costero de Niebla y tener el primer contacto con la playa y con el tan anhelado Horizonte del Océano Pacifico; perfecto lugar para enamorarse. Luego de algunos días de descanso y jarana, recibo en Valdivia una encomienda con todo mi equipo para surfear; el mismo día lo monté sobre la moto y tomé la ruta hacia el pueblo de San José de la Mariquina, (pequeño pueblo en la región de los Lagos) y luego hacia el norte por la costa del Océano Pacífico. Misión: Surfear todas las olas que encontrase en el camino. Salí hacia el norte recorriendo cada una de las playas y pueblos costeros desde ahí hasta la Quinta región de Valparaíso, surfeando en los mejores lugares del sur de Chile para la práctica de este deporte; (Lebu, Buchupureo, Pichilemu, Puertecillo, entre otros). Lugares de playas preciosas, de arenas negras y con olas perfectas, limitando con bosques y con fértiles campos, el paraíso de todo surfista. El día 28 de abril, a los 4.300 km. de viaje, estaba en la cuidad de Viña del Mar, ese era el punto final de mi viaje y la prueba de que tenía conmigo una excelente motocicleta. Ahora llevo en mi cuerpo miles de aventuras para contar a mis nietos y la primera parte de la gran travesía sudamericana en moto.
Libertad Sobre Ruedas: Patagonia a Viña del Marpor José Tomas Ibarra del Canto
BIG ROCK FESTIVALPTO. Natales ‘08
Info: (56-61) 414143 • [email protected]
For the latest updates, call or email the coordinators.Para más detalles contactar a fono o email.
Inspired by the beauty of Torres del Paine itself.
Full-service hotel expanding for 2008/2009 seasonRestaurant with stellar views of the Paine MassifConference facilitiesWi-Fi Internet access
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Horseback ridingRío Serrano boat ridesSport fishingTours of Torres del Paine
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www.hotelrioserrano.cl Reservations: 056 61 240528 Hotel: 056-2-2948865 [email protected]
“La Loba” atrapado en el barro • “La Loba” (Wolf girl) stuck in the mud
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BIG ROCK FESTIVALPTO. Natales ‘08
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Friday April 18
15.00Free crafts bazaar
Feria de las pulgas en Feria Artesanal
20.00Rum & Reggae at El Living
Ron y reggae en El Living
Saturday April 19
10.00Triathlon along the water
Triatlón. Sector Costanera
20.00Live Music Ruperto Bar
Fiesta Musical en Ruperto
Sunday April 20
12.00Garbage Clean-up Race
Limpieza playa por equipos
20.00Grand Finale Discotheque Milidón
Gran baile en el Disco Milodón
Info: (56-61) 414143 • [email protected]
For the latest updates, call or email the coordinators.Para más detalles contactar a fono o email.
April 18, 19, 20, 2008
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Puerto Natales presents the 3rd annual...
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1�
FantásticoSur
Third Annual Big Rock FestivalApril 18-20, 2008 Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
The third annual Big Rock Festival will be held in Puerto Natales, Chile, from April 18-20, 2008. The organizers of the festival hope to solidify the event as an annual Patagonian attraction, drawing locals as well as international visitors to the nonprofit event. Like most world-recognized tourist towns, Puerto Natales has all the makings to draw big names and big crowds for a well-planned festival. “We believe that the Big Rock Festival possesess the early makings for an annual event that will blow the socks off everyone attending,” say event organizers. “This is Patagonia, there is no music recording artist that wouldn’t love to perform in the ‘shadow’ of the Towers. World famous artists have played at Egyptian pyramids, the Grand Canyon, and the Great Wall of China. Patagonia is another wonder-of-the-world type location. We still have a long way to go, but we’re on the right track. It’s very exiting!” The Big Rock Festival’s evolution from its inaugural season is apparent, but mainstays are emerging as well. One talked-about highlight is the adventure relay triathlon race, with three-person teams competing in kayaking, biking, and running. This year will also see the return of the Beach Clean-Up Race. Last year, townspeople, visitors, and the local schools participated in a mad rush to pick up garbage off the Puerto Natales waterfront. Over 100 bags or rubbish were removed
in less than an hour. “The idea is to create low-key, yet challenging, competitions that anyone can participate in: locals, tourists, and even the season’s working staff,” say the organizers.
Spread out over a three-day weekend, the activities include outdoor amusement, races, and lots of live music playing in venues throughout Puerto Natales. Everyone and anyone is encouraged to participate in the lively event. Big Rock organizers are now working with local companies to finalize planning and activities for this year’s festival. Please contact Black Sheep or Big Rock Festival organizers for further details or questions. Email: [email protected].
Live reggae from Matafari in Ruperto’s Pub at last year’s Big Rock Festival Matafari en vivo en Pub Ruperto’s en el festival Big Rock el año pasado
Team erratic rock, winners of the Big Rock Triathlon, 2007 (from left to right: John, Victor & Cem) • Equipo erratic rock, los ganadores del triatlón de Big Rock,
2007 (de izquierda a derecha: John, Victor y Cem)
2007 Big Rock Festival garbage clean up 2007 Limpieza de basura
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Black Sheep 1�
Park Emergencies Three days or more of serious trekking can take its toll on any body not accustomed to such endurance, so it’s likely that you’ll leave the Park with an aching muscle or two at the least. And unfortu-nately, there’s always a chance of more serious injury. Here are some tips on reducing that possibility and what to do if you’re not so lucky...
How can I avoid getting injured in the Park? The most common injury of walkers in the Park is pulled or strained muscles, so the best ad-vice is to be aware of your fitness level and your limits and don’t try to do too much. Stretching well at the end of a day of walking and first thing in the morning should help loosen taut muscles and reduce the risk of strains. Blisters are a common complaint too, so make sure you have the right footwear. Taping the areas of your feet prone to friction injuries with zinc oxide or fabric surgical tape before you start can also help to avoid blisters developing in the first place. Insect bites can be bothersome as well.
Take a small first aid kit with you contai-ning at the minimum, pain killers, anti-inflammato-ries, plasters, blister treatment (Second Skin is ideal for friction injuries on your feet), insect repellent, and anti-histamine cream.
What if I don’t have the treatment I need with me? Every Park ranger station has a first aid kit and can deal with minor injuries such as cuts, blisters and strains. Whilst the Park rangers have first aid tra-ining, they are not allowed to administer medicines, so they cannot perform miracles. Depending on the severity of the injury, you may have to consider mo-difying or abandoning your trek rather than carry on and risk exacerbating the problem.
by Sarah Rutter
And if someone is seriously injured? The first thing you should do is report the incident, through whatever means available, to a Park ranger or any of the concessions within the Park. Every Park ranger station and concession has a radio and will alert CONAF, who will implement the ne-cessary measures depending on the sector and terrain you are in and the nature of the incident. Assistance will be provided to anyone in difficulties, as long as you are in an authorized area of the Park, so keep to the permitted routes at all times unless you have specific permission (available for climbers only).
Wherever possible, the Park rangers will get you out of the mountain area to a point from where transport can be arranged to Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas if necessary. Very often guides or others in the Park work with the Park rangers to help people in difficulties. If you need an ambulance or other spe-cial transport out of the Park, you will need to pay for this yourself. Remember that it may take some time for help to arrive, as the Park is large and many areas can only be reached on foot or by horse.
What about helicopter assistance? CONAF can arrange helicopter assistan-ce if it is considered necessary and appropriate. Every sector of the Park has a designated helicopter landing area. However, the availability of helicopter assistance depends largely on the weather conditions within the Park. If the wind is too strong, the cloud too thick or the rain too heavy, a helicopter cannot be deployed. Again, it may take a few hours for assistance to arrive depending on the conditions and where the injured person is. If a helicopter is deployed, the injured per-son will need to cover this cost.
La Protectora Caring for the Strays by Bruce Willett
The Punta Arenas humane society, La Pro-tectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs, La Protectora (or Corporacion de la Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales, CODDA) runs the southernmost animal shelter in the world. Founded in 1990 by Señora Elia Tagle to stop the cruel poisoning of stray dogs by the local and federal governments (who used strychnine), the nonprofit runs essential sterilization and educational programs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000. La Protectora receives no public funding, but they manage to stretch their $20,000 USD per year budget pretty far. On this budget, they operate a shelter with 100-140 dogs and 2-5 cats. Most of their animals are not locked in cages and run around freely in several pens, eating twice daily, playing, and sometimes fighting. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified eu-thanasia when necessary. With the help of the police, they also respond to cruelty and neglect cases. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership. Another project hosts a group of high school students from the local British School, who are obligated to volun-teer in order to graduate.
Sterilization is another big priority. Many people in Punta Arenas cannot afford to sterilize their pets. In a country where a normal monthly salary can be as low as $120 USD, the cost to spay a female dog runs about $40-$60 USD. They work with the local government and veterinarians to provide this service at low cost, but the program needs to be expanded.
What can you do to help? Financially, make a donation. Visit their web site (www.chileaustral.com/perros) with a PayPal account. Or better yet, stop by in person. La Protec-tora is located on the outskirts of Punta Arenas on the road to Club Andino at Avenida Circunvalación 1950. You can also help pressure the local and regional governments to support La Protectora. Write a letter to the editor of La Prensa Austral, the Punta Arenas-based regional paper, discussing how this issue affects tourism. The more letters they re-ceive, the more local officials will respond. Draw at-tention to the issue by speaking with tourist-related businesses, such as travel agencies, tourist offices, and hostels. This helps raise the awareness of locals, who want happy tourists and a good reputation for their town. Volunteers are always welcome as well. They need help with animal care, cleaning, building maintenance, marketing, and fundraising. To volun-teer or make a donation, please contact La Protectora at (56-61) 262607 or [email protected]. Or stop by to visit them at Av. Circunvalación 1950, For more, visit: www.chileaustral.com/perros.
While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that´s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration. Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a liter in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to continually drink all day. Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!
d r i n k yo u r f i l l o f wat e r
Everyone who has gotten ready to set off on a trip has, before leaving, runs through a checklist either mentally or physically. We don’t want to forget anything that will be necessary during those days, weeks or months in which we are away, especially once we have crossed foreign borders. Despite our best efforts to remember everything, there exists an “invisible fear” to which we don’t generally pay much attention. At the moment of departure, we are bound intimately to our luggage. I have a friend who always reminds me that the most danger that we face on a trip is related to our own expectations and what we hope to find, hope to see, hope to make, or hope to experience. These expectations can become our worst companion. We move with big packs on our backs. We have images of National Geographic and prejudices of every kind in our minds. We hear other voices from other visitors ringing in our ears: Do this; don’t do that; this activity is a waste of time; or this place isn’t worth it, but this other place is. With all of these warnings in our heads, we often don’t allow ourselves to really connect with the reality or essence of a place. This way of disconnecting prevents the experience from touching or transforming us, with respect and humility to those who are around us. This kills the chance to enrich ourselves with the experience of what we might encounter in our
steps. A destination is never just a place. It is a new way to see old things and to see the world. If we really want to cross the border, we must be aware of this fear and allow ourselves to be open, free, and flexible. Maybe at the end of our journey, we can answer questions about our journey by saying that we walked in the town, stayed longer than we planned, played with children, spoke with older people, had coffee alone, spent hours sitting on a train thinking about how life goes by, found love, thought about settling down, and dreamed about coming back. In this way, we will have converted the “invisible fear” into visible experiences, real and u n f o r g e t t a b l e .
Invisible Fear by V. Irribarra
Bories No 655 / Punta Arenas
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E b e r h a r d 1 6 1 - P u e r t o N a t a l e s , C h i l e m a n d a l a a n d i n o @ y a h o o . c o m
9 9 3 0 2 9 9 7 / 4 1 4 1 4 3
Relaxation TherapiesOutdoor Tubs
MassagesNatural Bar
Outdoor CenterHandmade Crafts
R e s t & R e v i t a l i z e i n Pat a g o n i a
Phillipi 600, mod.28. Pueblito [email protected] - Fono 415721
Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza les da la bienvenida y les desea un buen viaje
20 Toneladas de Vidrio Reciclado Para Coaniquem
Patagoniax Café & Books
Delicious, real, organic
coffee and espresso.
Kick back and enjoy
the cozy atmosphere.
B. Encalada 226
Pto. Natales - Ph. 414725
Open all day
8am to 10:30pm
A true Chilean estancia...inside the city limits.
Alma Gaucha HostelPuerto Natales, Chilephone 56-61 415243
Two Silversmiths. One Art.The Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales
While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe. Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silver-smiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a se-ries of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to the next, until there you are, not
entirely sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valu-able if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it.” And that is just what they do. When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the pas-sion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to pro-duce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Na-tales. Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work. Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery. They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, you name it. You can find them in the store with a red door, Eberhard 318, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Satur-day and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.
Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop, Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318
ADVERTISEMENT
A mediados del mes de marzo voluntarios y socios de la Cámara de Turismo tuvieron la tarea de llenar el tan esperado contenedor que Coaniquem envíó desde Punta Arenas para transportar vía Navimag el vidrio recolectado durante esta temporada de turismo, el que superaba las ocho toneladas. Lamentablemente, el container tuvo una capacidad de aproximadamente 20 toneladas por lo que aún aguardan en Puerto Natales miles de botellas. La campaña de Coaniquem “Reciclando... el vidrio ayuda,” se realiza en conjunto con Cristalerías Chile, quien proporciona los medios para efectuarla. Esta empresa privada compra el material recolectado, para luego reutilizarlo. El dinero recaudado a través de esta actividad, cubre parte de los gastos operacionales de Casabierta, lugar que acoge a los menores de lugares apartados, manteniéndoles su continuidad escolar a través de su escuela hospitalaria, conocida como Ámbito de Acogida. La unión del concepto del cuidado del medio ambiente y la generosidad, hacen de esta campaña de Coaniquem un programa de gran éxito, al evitar que varios miles de toneladas de vidrio vayan a parar a los vertederos cada año, al tiempo que se establece un compromiso con
la costosa y larga rehabilitación de un niño quemado. Para nuestra comunidad es muy satisfactorio poder cooperar con esta cruzada y a la vez beneficiarnos enormemente del reciclaje de miles de botellas, ya que no debemos olvidar lo siguiente:
La Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza agradece enormemente a todos los que semana a semana han entregado sus botellas, así como, a las personas que voluntariamente han donado su tiempo, trabajando en la recolección y en la tarea de cargar el contenedor.
por la Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza
Producir una tonelada de vidrio (a partir de vidrio reciclado) significa...
Evitar la extracción de 603kg de arena, además de otros materiales.Economizar 30% de energía eléctricaGenerar 20% menos contaminantes atmosféricos.La energía economizada con el reciclaje de una botella de vidrio es suficiente para mantener encendida una lámpara de 100 W durante cuatro horas.
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April, the month of beauty and relaxation...
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Black Sheep 1�
When my father passed away
three and a half years ago, I regretted that I had never shared with
him the Patagonia that I have come to know and love. He taught me how to climb when I was a child, and always supported my climbing lifestyle, even though climbing as a lifestyle was not looked upon too favorably in money-crazed America. We were very close, and although he never got to see Pata-goinia, I could at least make it up to him in one way. I could bring down my mom, Anna Lee Schneider. So it was, that last December I drove down to Punta Arenas airport to meet my mother, fresh from her 84th birthday, and her 79-year-old friend, June Richard. The trick was, what do you do with two old ladies for 12 days in wind-swept Pata-gonia? This is a story about the senior citizen tour of Chilean Patagonia. Our first stop was a mid-range hotel in Punta Arenas, so that the ladies could shower, relax, and recover from their long voyage from Califor-nia. They napped for a couple of hours before we headed out to my favorite restaurant in town, the Coyote Bar. It was here that I introduced them to the infamous Pisco Sour. They instantly loved Pisco as much as I do, and it became a staple of our eve-nings together, although I never let them have more than one Pisco. The last thing I wanted, was to have to carry two silver-haired females on my shoulders back to their hotel room. Sightseeing with mom gave me the op-portunity to visit the typical tourist spots that up until then I’d avoided because of the huge crowds. The next morning, we drove to see the penguins at the Seno Otway colony. I was pleasantly surprised to find the colonly nearly deserted. And wow, were those penguins ever so cute. I just wanted to take one of them home to cuddle up with at night. When we drove off, a steady stream of cars and buses passed us by, and I realized that the best time to visit the colony is early morning, before the masses arrive. The next day we drove north, and veered off the main highway to hotel Río Verde, an out-of-the-way estancia that now caters to visitors in a beautifully remodeled hotel. My good friend Sergio Santileces had made a small fortune off the wool in-dustry here, but with waning wool prices, he has re-cently diverted his attention to the tourism industry, fixing up the accommodations, and serving amazing asados to his guests. His wife, Pipa, spoils her visitors to the point where it has a “home away from home” feel to it. For three days we explored the nearby area via car and minitrekking, marveling at the estancia’s beautiful location next to the Seno Skyring, a huge unspoiled body of water that sometimes sports pen-guins, dolphins, and whales. The birding was fantas-tic, with a wide variety of species visible just within minutes away from our rooms. The highlight of the whole trip for me was Christmas day, when Sergio and Pipa had us over to their home for drinks and present opening. Christian, Sergio’s son and one of my best friends back in America, was there with his wife and daugh-ter, and we all had the the best time hanging out, eating homemade chocolates, and reconnecting with each other. If there was one place I could have brought my father to, it would have been here. The next day we packed up and sped to Puerto Natales, where we would stay at Hostal Pata-gonia. For the last five years, this has been base camp
in Patagonia for my wife and I. Theresa Bustamante runs a clean and friendly operation, with her daugh-ter Judy. We visited my favorite restaurants El Living, Mesita Grande, and the now defunct El Maritimo, enjoying the small town ambience and friendliness that Natales is known for. Then it was time for Torres del Paine Na-tional Park, the exclamation point of our trip. We loaded up the car and drove the new road into the Park. We stopped to visit the Cueva del Milodon, another tourist trap I had always avoided, hearing that it was really hokey. What I found, though, was one of the most impressive caves I have ever been inside. The cave is a huge chamber of important ar-chaeologic findings, and what’s most impressive is its sheer volume. After visiting the cave, we were off to an-other minitrek and picnic to a little known water-fall, and then on to our lodging for the night near the headwaters of the Río Serrano. Our hotel room boasted a stellar view of the Cuernos del Paine right from the bed. Next day we trekked along the spit of sand on Lago Grey. This was Mom’s favorite day as she was able to clutch a piece of ice from the lake, possibly thousands of years old, and chomp down on it while relishing the vintage flavor. Of course we had to take the catamaran to Pehoe, where we made the farthest trek of the trip to Mirador of Lago Nordenskjöld. Rain, mixed with some high winds ruled the day, yet whenever the clouds poured down, the ladies would start sing-ing some old battle hymn. I was inspired by their majestic attitudes, on what I would have otherwise described as a truly miserable day. Later, we moved location to the old sheep farming town of Cerro Guido, which offers a dif-ferent perspective of the Towers, amid a tradition of hard work and prosperity during the height of the wool industry. We visited the Hostería las Torres, and enjoyed the newly made nature path adjacent to the hotel. Although minutes from the hotels grow-ing spread of buildings, this path offers total solitude among the plants and animals of the Park. And then, so very fast, our 12-day jour-ney was over. With a last minute shopping spree and fine dining experience in Natales behind us, I made the final voyage with the ladies to the Punta Arenas airport and bade them a tearful farewell. I had shown my mom the trip of her lifetime. For those of you that have come here and enjoyed Patagonia, one of the most loving things you could ever do is bring your family members back down here with you, and be their personal guide. After all, it would be great to not have any regrets.
About Steve Schneider...
Steve is Puerto Natales’ resident climber. He has been teaching people to climb ever since his
dad taught him on the local rocks of Berkeley in the 1960s. Since then, Steve has climbed El Capi-tán 87 times, served 10 years on the Yosemite Search and Rescue Team, and made groundbreaking first ascents in the most remote areas of the planet, in-cluding Pakistan, Mongolia, and Chile. Steve has dedicated his life to the pursuit of climbing and its various forms.
Adventures of Shipoopoi: The Senior Citizen Tour
by Steve SchneiderWaterproofing your pack Water is heavy. A quart of water weighs about two pounds. A rucksack full of rainwater would be impossible to lift. This is why folks buy backpack covers, but they’re expensive. They weigh up to half a pound and usually leave much of your pack exposed anyway. Plus down here in Patagonia, the wind is prone to grab the flimsy cover up like a kite and set it flying. What’s more, they won´t even protect your pack if it takes a dip in a creek or river. Tip: Try lining your pack with a heavy-duty trash bag. A regular garbage bag is fine too, but the thicker the better. The trash bag offers FULL protection for everything in your pack, without having to carry the extra weight of a pricy backpack cover. Just be careful not to rip a hole in the bag while packing. And remember to have the top stor-age pouch lined at all times as well. When you’re ready to turn in for the night, just pull the plastic bag out of your wet backpack and move it--and your dry gear--into your tent with you. The outside of your pack might spend the night a little wet, but it’ll dry easily when the sun pops out. Next time the clouds open up and dump rain without notice, everyone will scramble to protect their packs. But not you. You’ll be calm as a Hindu cow, knowing all your clothes and gear are wrapped and waterproof safely in a plastic bag.
r u c k s ac k s & r a i n
The Milodon Laundry Service
Drop off before noon for same-day service.
Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m.Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642, Puerto Natales
Drop your pants here.Closed Sundays.
Hosteria Fono: 56 61 412481Reservas Fono:56 61 220014 (Punta Arenas)
H o s t e r i a
L a g o d e l T o r oLaundry, Transfers, Horse riding
Río Serrano, [email protected]
Like home...
Coffee ShopSouvenirs
Horseback Rides
Locally owned & operated.
[email protected] +56-61-691932Cerro Castillo - Torres del Paine
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Uno de los topónimos más conocidos entre los montañeros que se internan en la zona del macizo del Paine, esto es, en el corazón del Parque Nacional del mismo nombre, es el del Valle Ascencio. Se trata de que transcurre entre la vertiente septentríonal del conjunto orográfico formado por las Torres del Paine y el monte Almirante Nieto, y la serranía opuesta hacía el nororiente. Por el fondo del valle corre el Río Ascencio que le da el nombre ye que desemboca en el extremo noreste del Lago Nordenskjold. El topónimo recuerda a Ascencio Brunel, un bandido legendario de la época pionera del poblamiento patagónico entre fines del siglo XIX y los principios del XX, que fue capturado en ese lugar por una partida de policía chilena en el invierno de 1902. La historia de Brunel, hoy casi olvidada, fue recogida en varios libros de Antaño y Ogaño. Originarío de las Islas Malvinas y ancestro uruguayo, Ascencio Brunel emigró a Punta Arenas con otros miembros de su familia hacía fines de los años de 1880 y comenzó a ganarse la vida en trabajos de campo. A poco andar y por causa de un lío de faldas, al parecer, mató a un hombre, robó un par de caballos y escapó de la capital magallánica para internarse en las pampas de más al norte, territorio que hacía pocos años había principiado a poblarse con ovejas. Luego, se supone, se encaminó hacía los terrenos de la precordillera de Última Esperanza, en especial a los valles de la Sierra Baguales en donde podia vivir seguro y libre. Es harto probable que en tan remota comarca, entonces absolutamente virgen, estableciera su guarida ocupándose en la caza de caballos salvajes, habilísimo como era en el uso del lazo y del rifle. Esto no evitó naturalmente que cuando la oportunidad se le ofreciera robara en las caballadas de los Tehuelches y de los pioneros colonizadores, que con gran esfuerzo se iban instalando en los campos del sur patagónico. Para sus correrías Ascencio empleaba una estratagema que siempre le daba resultado: se acercaba a las tropillas con un cuero fresco de puma, circunstancia que intranquilizaba o espantaba a
los caballos, aprovechando entonces Brunel para arrearlos lejos del alcance de sus propietarios. Comenzó a cobrar fama entonces como bandido audaz y temerarío y aún fantasmal, pues era tal su excelencia como jinete que sólo en horas salvaba distancias enormes, poniéndose a resguardo de sus persequidores. Se contaba que para lograrlo, y esta era otra de sus argucias, había adiestrado un par de caballos para correr siempre a parejas, de manera que cuando uno demostraba estar cansado con el peso del jinete, saltaba sobre el otro al galope y así proseguía arrancando. Transcurridos varios años de vida errante por pampas y montañas, y con más de una tropelía a cuestas, Ascencio Brunel pasó a ser buscado por colonos y policías chilenos y argentinos. Un caballo muerto y sin lengua, pues este era el bocado que más gustaba al bandolero, era un indicio seguro de paso y de ese modo se le seguía el rastro, sin que nunca nadie consiguiera darle alcance. Tantos años de correrías hicieron de Brunel un baqueano inmejorable que, perseuido, fue cambiando de guarida según las circunstancias; así de los Baguales o el Paine se fue a las comarcas del Río Leona, entre los Lagos Argentino y Viedma, y luego más al norte por los valles pedregoso del San Martín y otros sitios recónditos de la precordillera, de suerte que su nombre se hizo famoso desde Última Esperanza hasta el Chubut a todo lo largo y ancho de la Patagonia oriental. Pasado 1902, cuando las comisiones de límites se internaron en los Andes para establecer los hitos fronterizos entre Chile y Argentina, contaban después sus integrantes que por distintos lugares perdidos y solitarios solían encontrarse manadas de caballos que atribuían pertenecer a Brunel. Se buena suerte pareció terminar al ser capturado por policías argentinos y llevado a Río
Gallegos, donde fue encarcelado. Pero no demoró en escaparse robandose inclusive un caballo policíal, con el que se largó hacía el norte, al distante territorio del Chubut donde prosiguió con sus tropelías. Por allí fue nuevamente cogido, ahora por los indios y entregado a la policía de Trelew, que lo puso a buen recaudo en la cárcel. Tampoco esta vez estuvo mucho en prisión, pues aprovechando un descuido de sus vigilantes se escapó nada menos que a lomo del caballo “guardiero” de la comisaría policial. A partir de entonces su fama de bandolero se acrecentó y se le atribuyeron diversos delitos ocurridos por el extenso interíor rural. Su nombre fue conocido de norte a sur y mar a cordillera, destacándose
asimismo su velocidad fantasmal que le hacía estar un día en un sitio y otro en un lugar muy distante del anterior. Un día alguien rumoreó en Punta Arenas que había muerto Ascencio Brunel y cuando la cosa se quiso averiguar resultó
difícil, pues hubo quienes afirmaron que había muerto a manos de los indios cerca del Río Senguer, en un paraje próximo a la fontera del territorio de Aysén, mientras que otros aseguraban que había sido capturado tras ser herido por policías chilenos de Última Esperanza. Según la primera versión hacía el fin del invierno de 1900, Ascencio se encontraba merodeando en las cercanías de una toldería Tehuelche, intentando como siempre apropiarse de la caballada. Apercibidos los aborígenes, sigilosamente fueron rodeando para atrapar al bandido. Este viéndose sorprendido se lanzó al galope por entre los Tehuelches dirigéndose hacía un río cercano, para cruzarlo, acorar camino y ganar terreno. El río estaba congelado y con el peso de la cabalgadura y el jinete el hielo se rompió, yendo ambos al agua. Fue así como los indios que lo iban persiguiendo le dieron
alcance, disparándole uno de ellos, el viejo jefe Kankel, con una carabina, acertándole antes de que lograra ganar la otra orilla. Se contaba también que los Tehuelches al acercarse lo hallaron vestido con un traje hecho de cuero sobado de puma y no le encontraron más pertenencias que un cuchillo gastado, unas boleadoras y algunas piedras de pedernal. Luego le habrían arrimado leña encendiéndole fuego para que se borrara todo resto y rastro del bandolero. La otra versión de la captura y muerte de Brunel, que nos parece más fidedigna, da cuenta de que en el invierno de 1902 un par de policías chilenos, los guardianes Bascur y Carvajal, que andaban tras sus pasos por el enteríor de Última Esperanza, lograron ubicarlo al fin por los valles altos del sector del Paine, gracias a la ayuda de Carlos Führ, uno de los primeros colonos de la comarca. Sorprendido Ascencio durmiendo bajo un toldo hecho con un cuero fresco de caballo y rodeado por sus perseguidores, gritó que no le dispararan y que se reniría, pero sin esperar respuesta disparó a su vez sobre ellos y huyó monte adentro. Los policías contestaron el fuego, hiriendo a Brunel e inutilizándole el arma, pero éste consiguió escapar, encontrandoselo finalmente y al cabo de varias horas de persecución cerca de un chorrillo, muerto al parecer y además semicongelado. Sin embargo de lo acontecido, algunos dudaron del hecho y se empenaron en mantener con vida al bandido, tanto que incluso se le achacaría un crimen ocurrido en 1904 en las cercanías del Lago Viedma. Pero, poco a poco su recuerdo fue olvidándose y se acabó por aceptar que había muerto en un paraje interior del macizo del Paine, en el valle del río que precisamente y por esa circunstancia recibió el nombre del forajido. Tal es la origen que se atribuye al conocido topónimo, pero más allá del mismo pareciera que la propia naturaleza quisiera confirmarlo. En efecto, cuando el viajero que va admirando las impresionantes formas de los Cuernos del Paine, marchando de sur a norte desde la administración del Parque Nacional hacía el sector de Pudeto, o yendo desde esta última al Lago Grey, si fija con detenimiento la vista en la pared occidental del Cuerno Este advertirá sin esfuerzo que la misma muestra la silueta de un hombre a caballo, en la que son claramente distinguibles la cabeza y el tronco del jinete, con un poncho, y el bulto del animal, apariencia debida al colorido diferenciado de las roca base. La figura es ciertamente curiosa y sorprendente, y quien la observa una vez no dejará de hacerlo después. Es un hecho casual, está claro, pero su obervación invita a cavilar en que quizá natura se empeña en mantener la vigencia del legendario personaje. Así la imagen del bandido solitario que acabó su vida aventuraen la próxima vecinidad, parece haberse plasmado en la piedra para admiración nostálgica de los conocedores de la Patagonia vieja: ¡Ascencio Brunel redivivo!
por Mateo Martiníc B. ¿El Bandido Ascencio Redivivo?
Un caballo muerto y sin lengua,
pues este era el bocado que más gustaba
al bandolero
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Astrología Védica, Yoga y Música Hindú:Encuentro con Krishna de Uruguay en Pto. Natales
La asociación de yoga, salud y cultura “patagOM” a fines del mes de marzo y los primeros días de abril organizó un encuentro de gran valor cultural. El evento es posible gracias al patrocinio de la cooporación de la edcuación,
el auspicio de la municipalidad y de diferentes empresas de Puerto Natales. La música India nace en los templos y es considerada una parte del yoga, se la llama Nada Yoga o el yoga del sonido porque comparte con el yoga el mismo objetivo: aquietar la mente y entrar en armonía con el propio ser. Esta jornada de yoga, música y astrología se inserta en la idea de entregar a la comunidad la oportunidad de interiorizarse en nuevos conocimientos en el ámbito cultural y espiritual, especificamente en el yoga, que es la disciplina que practico desde 12 años y hace 6 años enseño en Puerto Natales. Todavía es posible inscribirse y disfrutar de un curso de astrología los días 5 y 6 de abril con el maestro de yoga y astrólogo Alan Wiuker, quien vino en diciembre 2006 por primera vez a difundir la disciplina del yoga.
Sobre Krishna...
Krishna, Alan Wiuker, es discípulo directo de Swami Vishnu Devananda, fundador y Maestro
de los centros internacionales de Yoga Sivananda, quien lo inició en Yoga y Vedanta, conectándolo a la vez con las diversas ramas del conocimiento espiritual
de la India como ser Ayurveda, música clásica hindú y luego Astrología Védica, o Jyotish. Es profesor de Yoga en dicha organización internacional desde hace más de 20 años, siendo parte del equipo de docentes en los cursos de formación de profesores de Yoga que se dictan a nivel internacional en los diversos ashrams Sivananda, lo cual lo lleva a viajar extensivamente. Ha enseñado Yoga, meditación, filosofía Vedanta y otras ramas del conocimiento védico en varios países como ser Uruguay, Argentina, Chile, Brasil, Estados Unidos, España, Austria, India, México, Canadá, Bahamas, Bolivia y otros. Obtuvo su certificación en astrología védica, “Jyotish” del “American College of Vedic Astrology” (ACVA) en los Estados Unidos. También es reconocido como profesor y tutor por esta organización, siendo sus clases y cursos reconocidos y aprobados por esta última. Realizó estudios personales con Gary Gomes, Gangadhara Girish, destacado astrólogo védico, actual presidente de la “American Council of Vedic Astrology” y también con Komilla Sutton, presidenta del consejo de astrología védica de Inglaterra. También ha estudiado y ejecuta música clásica de la India, y “Nada Yoga” el Yoga del sonido y la música, especializándose en el Tabla y percusión, siendo discípulo del Pandit Swapan Chaudhuri, renombrado tablista y Maestro. En su larga trayectoria como profesor de Yoga y estudioso de las escrituras védicas, Krishna reconoce la validez de la Astrología Védica como una forma de comprender más el karma personal y poder de esta manera asesorar o guiar mejor la práctica espiritual personal. Krishna practica, estudia
por Susana Steiger Los Vedas, antiguas escrituras sagradas de la India, son el origen de la Filosofía Vedanta. “Veda” significa conocimiento y “anta,” fin. Vedanta es la filosofía que conduce al fin, último del conocimiento espiritual. El Yoga y la Astrología Védica provienen de ella y ofrecen diversos caminos y herramientas para la búsqueda del propósito de la existencia. El Yoga, como una ciencia a través de la cual el individuo llega a trascender la dualidad aparente y experimenta la unión con el todo; y la Astrología Védica o Jyotish, como una herramienta para entender las leyes divinas y el Karma personal con el objetivo de poder corregirlo y des-identificarnos de él para realizar la naturaleza divina interior.
Temas:Introducción al Jyotish (astrología védica), su base filosófica y su relación con los Vedas, el Yoga y la filosofía Vedanta.Karma y reencarnación. Sanchita karma, Agami karma y Prarabda karma.
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Moksha (liberación del karma)Como entender el karma personal a través de la carta natal.El zodíaco Sideral. Técnicas interpretativas. Como leer una carta natal. Energía y significado de cada planeta. Fortaleza y debilidad de los planetas y sus efectos en la vida. Las casas. Regentes en casas.Combinaciones planetarias importantes.Como el Jyotish nos puede ayudar a encontrar el Swadharma (misión o trabajo a realizar en esta vida), el tipo de Sadhana (práctica para el progreso espiritual y autorrealización), y a entender y superar nuestros conflictos u obstáculos kármicos. Remedios astrológicas. Introducción al uso de Mantras, Yantras, Gemas, Pujas y rituales purificatorios.
Por más información, visite Susana en la Casa de Yoga patagOM, Galvarino 345, Puerto Natales, Fono: 61-413829, [email protected].
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Curso de Astrología Védica, Nivel 1 5 & 6 de Abril, 10.00-13.00 & 17.00-20.00
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Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile
Hotel Posada Tres PasosYour country hotel...
Tel:(56) (2) 1969630 [email protected]
El Chaltén Funky is the best word to describe Chaltén, a small village created in 1985 and growing fast. With no less than four panaderias (bakeries), its own microbrewery, a chocolateria, two book stores, plus a host of hostels, hotels, and restaurants, Chaltén manages to retain its Wild West feel, bumming along a dusty road. This is where Los Glaciares National Park invites you to its northern sector. Geologically it’s a sister park to Torres del Paine, but Los Glaciares is very different, especially in its philosophy. The Park is yours and, while you visit, it’s your job to protect it. Park entrance and camping are free, and facilities are kept to a minimum. Basically the only services are pit-style latrines at every campsite. Hiking options range from a one-hour hike to Los Condores overlook, to five or six days in the backcountry, passing glaciers, pristine mountain lakes, leafy lenga forests, and rock spires like Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.
While in Chaltén, check out these digs...
Super Mercado: Catering to the road weary, this shop has camping gear, trail grub, warm clothes, books, and souvenirs. Calle Lago del Desierto near Guemes.
Josh Aike Chocolatería: Established about 14 years ago, this is the first stop for many climbers celebrating or bemoaning their efforts on the towers. Calle Lago del Desierto.
Capilla a los Escaladores: Small chapel built in honor of climbers who have died here. Built by Austrians, of mostly Austrian materials, in honor of Toni Egger who died descending Cerro Torre with Italian Cesare Maestri in 1959 (the disputed first ascent). Costanera Norte at Rio de las Vueltas.
Hostel Rancho Grande: The first hostel in Chaltén, at the north end of the village. Showers available (check for hours and prices), a great service if you’re camping gratis at Madsen, just to the north. Marco Polo Books: Decent selection of books in Spanish, maps, and regional books in English. Calle Andreas Madsen 15.
Bodegon El Chaltén: Local microbrewery and restaurant. Centrally located, a favorite.
El Calafate With its variety of food and lodging, Calafate is a town designed for tourism. You can rent a car, buy groceries, and visit the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. For a broader view of Calafate, veer off the main road to quieter streets, such as Moyano or Gregores. You’re likely to stumble upon interesting shops, such as that of Raul Martinez and Paula Maza, who gather objects from nature to make original art (Calle Ezekial Bustillo, high season). There’s no shortage of restaurants in Calafate, but the prices are anything but cheap. La Mina is open early for breakfast until late at night. With an ecclectic mix of music and rustic old mining photos, you might find yourself lingering there long after your last sip of wine or coffee. At bustling Casablanca, sink your teeth into something healthy, like a brown rice salad with colorful veggies. Viva La Pepa boasts bright décor, fresh flowers, and a shady setting, a refreshing place to enjoy sweet or savory crepes, crisp salads, or fresh-fruit smoothies. To savor a traditional meal, visit La Tablita, serving Patagonia since 1964. Their asados can’t be beat, and they offer plenty of vegetarian options to boot. For lunches that won’t break the bank, swing by the deli at Anonimo Supermercado, which offers ready-to-go grub. Il Postino, on 9 de Julio, has meat and vegetarian empanadas as well as quiches, a great meal to split with a friend, or take with you trekking to El Chaltén. There are also a few things to do that break away from the touristy vortex of main street. Plus they’re free, or darn close to it. Laguna Nimez eco-reserve, home to local birdlife, including upland geese, black-faced ibis, and flamingo, is about six blocks north of town, across the Arroyo. There’s a small entrance fee. To get a closer gander of Lago Argentino, rent a mountain bike (hourly and daily rates available) and head north on Avenida 17 de Octubre to the Avenida de la Costanera, the coastal road. Pedal out an hour to reach Punto Soberano, where the road ends and you can walk along the shore and drink in the turquoise waters of the lake. Just southeast of town, stroll to the Cañadon del Arroyo Calafate. There’s a creek that runs into Lago Argentino, and from here you can scramble up the canyon. For so-close-yet-so-far views of the town and lake, hike up Cerro Huiliche or Cerro Calafate. Ask around for the best route up.
Calafate & Chaltén Highlights
You’ve done the ‘W,’ maybe you’ve even hiked the Full Circuit, and you’ve seen Torres del Paine. Beautiful of course, but if you’re like me, you
wondered why there were buildings with generators, electricity and running water each night. If you’re hooked on seeing the Patagonian wilds and want to experience it in a more raw form, your perfect trip awaits. While it seems to be common knowledge among locals, many people are not aware that a route exists between El Chaltén, on the Argentinian side, and Chile’s Carretera Austral’s southern end, Villa O’Higgins. Start in El Chaltén, where a superior bit of municipal planning has resulted in not one, but TWO excellent and totally gratis campsites. Spend a night in El Chaltén and stock up with a bit of food. (It may even be better to buy some grub before you reach El Chaltén as prices are insanely high and there is no bank or ATM.) Start early in the morning the next day, which should be a Thursday in order to meet the ferry at Candellario Mancilla on Saturday. Head north on the only road leading out of town. There are many touristy types with extra seats in their rental cars, so hitching a ride shouldn’t be a problem. If you desire a more guaranteed form of travel, taxis or shuttles can be purchased from various locations in town. Ask around for the cheapest way to get to Lago del Desierto, which is approximately 40 km from El Chaltén. Upon arriving to Lago del Desierto, the road ends and the fork begins, where the traveler is faced with a choice. Option one: Shell out 40 Argintinean pesos (roughly $13 USD) and take La Lancha across the lake to Refugio Punte Norte, the northern end of the lake. Option two: Hoof it. Finding the trailhead can be slightly confusing, so ask one of the gendarmes how to locate it if you’re not able to track it down. Walk the 4-5 hours to Punte Norte. I strongly suggest choosing the latter of the two. Paying 40 pesos for the catamaran would be like going to Disneyland and paying to skip Splash Mountain. The 12 km hike to Punte Norte, is an incredibly wild and beautiful walk, but in order to truly appreciate it, leave the gore tex, camera and ipod in your pack. Open your eyes, breathe in deep, and get soaked by the cool rain, while you soak in
the solitude. Shortly after beginning the trek, you’ll enter areas densely forested by trees, which writhe towards the sky in thick squiggles. It’s easy to feel like an ant strolling through a patch of 1970s shag carpet. When you finally drop down onto the beach, approximately five minutes before reaching Punte Norte, don’t forget to turn around and take a last look back at the lake. If the day is clear, you’ll see incredible views of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre swathed in clouds. Upon arriving to Punte Norte, pitch your tent for free on the edge of the forest, or pay $10 USD for a bed in the comfy-looking refugio. On day two, head up the valley, past the collection of outbuildings, and locate the trail as it crosses a stream and turns uphill into the woods. From here it is about three hours to the border proper, and you can laugh as you pass signs informing you of your departure from Argentina and entrance into Chile. Both Chile and Argentina seem to have abandoned their forward border posts. However, on the Chilean side, the trail becomes a muddy single-wide road. It remains such for the final 3-4 hours to Candellario Mancilla, site of the Chilean Aduana, boat dock, and Hospedaje Santa Theresa. Justa Mancilla will serve you a warming meal for 3.000 Chilean pesos. She’s the daughter of José Candellario Mancilla, who arrived here in 1937. For another 1.000 pesos, Justa will permit you to camp on a large flat piece of land above her house, with absolutley stunning views of Lago O’Higgins, and its surrounding mountains. For the especially tired and cold, a bed in the Hospedaje is another option. The boat to Villa O’Higgins arrives every Saturday, around 11 a.m., but it doesn’t depart until 5.30 p.m. With this in mind, the trip could be shortened in one of two ways. Leave El Chaltén on a Friday, complete the whole 8-9 hour hike to Candellario Mancilla in one day, and catch the ferry the next afternoon. Or, for those in a hurry, leave El Chaltén very early on Saturday morning (in some sort of hired transport to the end of the road), and hike it all quickly so as to arrive by 5 p.m. and catch the boat. (Though this doesn´t leave much room for error.) No matter what you decide, remember that Candellario Mancilla is a beautiful place to spend a day doing nothing, playing Lewis & Clark and waiting for your ship to come in.
Border Crossings: El Chaltén to Villa O’Higgins
by Casey Tane
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EL CALAFATE
How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales?
It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh. You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities.
How many people live in Calafate?
Around 18,000 in high season, from September to May.
What can I do here?
Glaciers are the main attractions. Perito Moreno Glacier is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit six other glaciers in the area (Upsala, Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis, and Heim).
How do I get to/from the Calafate airport?
By the airport shuttle, which costs around $18 ARS per person. By taxi it’s $50 ARS.
How do the taxis (remises) work?
There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis. You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops.
Where is the information center in Calafate?
The information center is in the bus station.
Can I drink the tap water?
In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water. You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.
Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?
Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. Yay, progress! This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.
When are the stores open, anyway?
In Calafate, they’re open from 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.
What’s the weather like in these parts?
It’s Patagonia. The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer.
How can I visit Perito Moreno Glacier?
There are regular tours that cost ARS$90 (incl. pick up and guide) + ARS$40 (entrance). The regular bus is ARS$60 + entrance. You can also take one of the remises for ARS$250 for up to four passengers. This includes the ride there and back, and the remis will wait for you there for three hours.
There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: 1.) Minitrekking for ARS$265 + ARS$45 (transfer to the park) + ARS$40 (entrance fee). 2.) The Big Ice: ARS$375 + ARS$45 (transfer) + ARS$40 (entrance).
To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip (from 7 a.m. till 6 p.m.) ARS$240 (boat ticket) + ARS$26 (transfer to the port) + ARS$40 (entrance fee).
Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time!
Who was Perito Moreno?
Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.
Is it safe at night?
Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy.
Where can I camp in El Calafate?
There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities, and all around ARS$18 per person. The best one is El Ovejero.
Are there any cheap eating options?
Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the su-permarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price.
What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include?
Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala, and other glaciers, and El Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).
EL CHALTÉN
How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate?
By bus. It takes 4.5 hours to get to Chaltén from Calafate. There are two companies: Chaltén Travel and CalTur. The times are: 8 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to go to Chaltén. And 6.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. to come back to Calalfate. In winter there’s only one bus in the morning.
Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?
Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the next bus to El Chaltén at 6.30 p.m.
How many people live in El Chaltén?
200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capital and young-est city, founded in 1985.
What services are in El Chaltén?
There aren’t any ATMs, banks, or places to change money. Some places accept dollars or euros, but not Chilean pesos. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. The good thing is, you don’t have to pay to get into the Park.
Do I have to pay to enter the Park from El Chal-tén?
No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It is up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all common sense leave-no-trace principles.
Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén?
In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy.
Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre?
In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles.
What if I don’t have a hostel or hotel reservation?
The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village.
Where can I camp in El Chaltén?
In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private prop-erty and costs ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peak of Fitz Roy at dawn. In the village, Madsen at the end of town right next to the Fitz Roy Trail, is free. There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers.
Can I find rental equipment?
You sure can, from a variety of stores on the main drag.
How many days should I plan to spend hiking?
You at least need to stay one night there. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto.
How long is the trekking season?
From October until April (depends on the weather) in El Chaltén. In Calafate, you can do all excursions from August until the end of May.
Will my cell phone work in Chaltén?
Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?
El Calafate, Argentina • Q&A
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Is Puerto Montt safe?
For the most part, Pto. Montt is a quiet city with few incidents of urban violence, but be smart and leave the bling-bling at home and use the buddy system when heading out to enjoy the night life.
Will I have any problems with drinking water or food?
In general, the water supply is safe, but just to stay on the safe side and keeping in consideration how far you are from home, stick to the boiled and bottled water. As for the food, use your own judgment and avoid the places that don’t look up to your standards of cleanliness. Also, if you are not used to eating a lot of seafood and shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.
Can I use my credit cards?
Sure, go ahead and charge it. Most businesses in the city center will accept the major credit cards, but as you get into the outskirts of the city and in some of the smaller businesses, you may have difficulties. If you should lose your credit cards, contact the follow-ing numbers: (2) 631-7003 for Visa International and Mastercard International, (2) 232-0000 for Diners International and 800-201022 for American Express.
Is it easy to change foreign currency?
Yes, most banks will change dollars and/or euros and there are many exchange shops called “cambios” where you can change your foreign currency.
Can I use my travelers checks or ATM card?
You bet. Travelers checks are a good way to go and can be cashed at all the banks. ATM cards are another option, since most banks have a machine on the Cirrus network and make the currency exchange for you automatically.
What times of the day are the shops and res-taurants open?
Most shops are open Monday thru Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00 and then remain open until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday thru Friday, 09:00 to 14:00.
Where can I buy handicrafts?
About 2 km. from the city center, you will find Caleta de Angelmo, home to a variety of handmade items, including wool sweaters, alpaca clothing, and leather items.
Can I take a tour by boat?
Sure, you can visit an island nature preserve in the area of Caleta de Angelmo. Just ask around near the Navimag dock for times and prices.
Where can I get the best seafood?
You’ll find a variety of restaurants in the area of Caleta de Angelmo with great seafood selections at reasonable prices.
Is it customary to tip?
In Chile, in general, it is customary to tip 10% of the total of the bill at restaurants. When using a taxi it is okay to leave the small change.
Will I have problems to communicate with my country of origin?
You shouldn’t have any problems, there are call centers throughout the city where they have internet and the city has a public phone network that enables you to make local and international phone calls with coins and special phone cards. Also, most hotels, for a sur-charge, will let you make international calls.
Who do I contact in case of an emergency? You can contact the police (carabiñeros) by dialing 133 and an ambulance at 131, or you can go directly to the central police station at Guillermo Gallardo 519.
Río Serrano, Chile • Q&A Pto Montt & Pto Varas, Chile • Q&A
How do I get to Puerto Varas?
If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most eco-nomical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. In Puerto Montt, you’ll catch one of the buses to Puerto Varas.
Where can I stay without breaking the bank?
There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking dis-tance of the center, offering options such as matrimo-nial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people.
How should I dress for the climate?
In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.
How do you pronounce the name of the lake?
The lake is Llanquihue, and it is pronounced as “Yankee-Way.”
Will I have any problems with drinking water or food?
In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.
What times of the day are the shops and restau-rants open?
Most shops are open Monday-Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00, and then remain open again until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday-Friday, 09:00 to 14:00.
What’s the nightlife like?
There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season. Not to mention, the casino
where you will have a chance to part with all your travel money, or if you’re lucky, win enough to pay for the whole trip.
How is the fishing in this area?
Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced spe-cies: rainbow trout and brown trout.
What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?
That is Osorno (2661m). There are three more volca-noes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2490m), Picada (1710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3491m).
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few.
What else is there to do?
There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sec-tors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Os-orno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla.
What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?
There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupi-als: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all.
How can I get round without a car?
In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Ber-nardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00am, 14:00, and 16:00, with sched-uled returns.
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elSOSIEGO HOSTELMiraflores 798, Puerto Natales Phone 74502944 / 83169151
Pucón, Chile • Q&A Is there a night life in Pucón?
Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano?
All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds.
Where is the best white water rafting?
There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Bío Bío through various companies in town.
When’s the best time to go rafting?
It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded.
What else can I do around here?
Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback, paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release.
Are there hostels close to the bus station?
You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.
Can I rent gear in town?
Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included.
Can I see the town on foot?
Nearly everything is within walking distance, and what isn’t is just a short taxi ride away.
What if I need a doctor or dentist?
There is a small hospital in town with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.
Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?
Just a few blocks from the center of town, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the 45 SPF block.
Is there a golf course nearby?
There is a nine-hole course on the peninsula, and you can rent a set of clubs in town.
Are there shops for outdoor clothing?
Yep, and you can find some of the big names and quality-made local stuff too.
Can I get my hiking boots or backpack repaired?
If your pack’s broke, you’ve come to the right place. There are places that can solve most gear-related problems.
Is the volcano active?
You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worry-ing.
When was the last time it erupted?
In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed.
Can I get a good map of the trails in Villarrica National Park?
There are good maps available in town for just a few bucks.
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
Plenty, with some great views of the volcano, just ask around in town about where to go.
Is transportation to the trailheads available?
If you use a guide, tranportation is included, but taxis can get you there, too. It’s about $5 USD to go by taxi to the park entrance.
Can I drink the water in the Park without treating it?
Go right ahead, drink all you can and enjoy the experi-ence.
What are the local indigenous people called?
Mapuche, and they are very proud of their heritage. They really gave the Spanish a run for their money back in the day.
Is there an entrance fee to the Park?
Yep, it’s about $8 bucks.
Do I need a permit to camp in the Park?
No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano!
What is the winter like?
Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.
Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area? In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the Carbiñeros de Chile. They will organize the 50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts.
Can I buy white gas and other backpacker essen-cials in town?
Of course, all that stuff is available in town.
Where is the closest airport?
Temuco, about two hours away by bus.
What options are there for public transport?
There are buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and Pucón every 15 minutes as well as taxis and colectivos. You can also rent a bike for around $10 USD for the day.
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21 de Mayo 1469 Punta Arenas +56-61 [email protected]
GuanacoÑandú
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Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia
Patagonian Spirit
O’Higgins 1021 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel 245851
Restaurant
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Sun. thru Tue. 7pm-12am
Wed. thru Sat. 7pm-10pm
JOSE MENENDEZ
HOSTEL Y
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Jose Menendez 882Punta Arenas, Chile
Ph/Fax: 56-61-221279
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José Noguiera 1600+56-61 241357
[email protected] Arenas, Patagonia, Chile
Punta Arenas, Chile • Q&A
Punta Arenas,Chile
Sarmiento
Av. Colon
Jose Menedez
Waldo Seguel
Fagnano
Errazuriz
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Av. Independencia
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What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?
Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.
What does Punta Arenas mean?
Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.
Why are there ropes on the main square corners?
Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street.
Where is the bus station?
Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.
Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas?
Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time…
Is there any public transportation?
Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus an the driver nevously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options a pretty inexpensive.
How do I know where the colectivos go?
There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!
How much do taxis cost?
All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.
Where can I change money?
There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.
Can I drink the tap water?
Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.
Does Punta Arenas have a camping?
Not at walking distance from the center.
How far is Torres del Paine from here?
4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.
How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?
Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.
How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuia?
250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry, 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.
Is there a boat to Ushuaia?
Yes, a fancy ship called the “Expedition Cruise.”
What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?
To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the
regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next dowor you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.
How far is the airport out of town?
About 20km or 30 minutes.
How much is an airport transfer?
A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles.
What type of day tours are there?
You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended).
What’s with all the street dogs? Do they bite?
Yes, gringos only.
When does ski season start?
Depending on snow conditions of course about June-August. You can see the Strait of Magellan from the slopes.
How many people live here?
About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.
What are my penguin options?
1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.
2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day.
Can I reach the end of the continent?
From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent.
When are the stores open?
Most stores open around 09:30 and close around lunch time between 13:00 and 15:00. On Sundays, most shops are closed, except for the supermarkets.
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Black Sheep 2�
Traveling in Patagonia? Head to the southern end of Chilean Tierra del Fuego if you can. The island is mysterious and fascinating, a
land of legends with beautiful scenery that will cap-ture your imagination. Tierra del Fuego, the island, is shared by Chile and Argentina. The eastern, or Ar-gentine part, is visited by thousands of tourists who arrive to Ushuaia from every corner of the world. But what about the Chilean side? What secrets does it hide? The western part of the island boasts pam-pas to forest, mountains and glaciers, and possibly the
most pristine natural reserve in Patagonia. Porvenir, the Fuegian capital on the Chil-ean side, is a good place to begin your adventure. You can rent a pick-up truck or jeep in Punta Arenas, contract a transport company with a driver-guide, or start out on bicycle. However you decide to go, Por-venir is the last place where you can buy food or gas, take out money from the bank, or find any informa-tion you may need. There are hotels and restaurants in Por-venir. You can also visit the Ferdinand do Cordero Rusque Museum, with a photographic and archeo-logical exhibit on the Ona and Yaghan tribes, the original inhabitants of the region. You’ll find in-formation on the discovery of gold and mining; a collection of beautiful altar pieces, and a section of natural history, archeology, and ethnography. There is also a great panoramic view of Delfines from a boat in the Bahia de Chilote. Once you’re heading south on the inter-national road, you might experience the Gold Cir-cuit, in the Cordón de Baquedano, with a spectacular view of the Strait of Magellan. You’ll visit an area where artisanal miners mined gold. You can talk to them about the history and lifestyle, and try mining for gold nuggets using the same techniques of 100 years ago. Continuing your adventure toward Onai-sin at kilometer 100, you’ll come across historical milestones, testimony to the past, when the enormous Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego left its mark on the region. In the sector called Bahia Inutil (Useless Bay), you’ll see the remains Puerto Nuevo, a lamb processing plant, which separated meat from fat (used for soap and cooking), on former-estancia Caleta Josefina. Today you can see the remains of the
installations and several machines. Caleta Josefina was the first estancia founded by the Sociedad in 1883. Some buildings are still standing, and you can visit the Cementerio de Onaisin, which was declared a National Monument in 1976. Yet even today, if you travel across the pampas in summer, you’ll see groups of shearers, “comparsas,” who go from estancia to es-tancia shearing thousands of sheep.
A stop along the road... Cameron is a good place to stop, have a bite to eat, or simply contemplate daily life in Tierra del Fuego. It consists of the town hall, police, school and guest house. Cameron arose from the shell of an old estancia founded in 1904 by the Socieded, and it was baptized with the name of one of the managers. Its buildings demonstrate typical architecture, rich in detail, brought to the area by the English. From Cameron, you’ll have to decide be-tween two routes. The coastal route passes sawmills at Puerto Yarton, Río Condor (famous for its fishing) and Puerto Arturo, with good places for camping. Or you can head south on the road which passes Lago Blanco, a route which goes inland and passes various secciones and puestos of the old estancia. Along the way you will see the huge dredges (aurifera) brought from England in 1904, which functioned until 1910. You’ll also pass remnants of old estancias in Section Russfin and Section Río Grande, and current-day estancias, including Enamonte, Vicuña, Río Chico, Las Flores, and so on.
From the pampas to the forests and mountains... Lenga forests and beaver habitat begin south of Pampa Guanaco. This area is a fisherman’s
By Pilar Irribarra • Translated by Carolina Wilson
Tierra del Fuego: Adventure, History and Legendparadise, with Río Rasmussen and Río Grande, as well as beautiful Lago Blanco. If you want to continue to the end of the road, you’ll need to go back to the main route and head to Lago Fagnano. Along the way you’ll marvel at the mountainous scenery, and you can visit Lagos Deseado y Despreciado. At Lago Fagnano you’ll see the road project to connect Estancias Yendegaia with Puerto Williams, one of the least explored trails in Chile. The project is a challenging one, and expected to take a few more years, crossing Cordillera Darwin along the way. For now, it is a real gift to be able to expe-rience the magical scenery of Fagnano. If you are up for more adventure, you can continue on horseback, or five more days of trekking, to arrive at Estancia Yendegaia. This is where the journey to the south end of Tierra del Fuego ends, at least a trip by vehicle. If you like to discover places where nature is truly wild, like to end each day with a campfire, or fish in crystalline waters, Chilean Tierra del Fuego is the place for you.Gaucho Fuegino • Growing up gaucho in TdF
Lake District & Patagonia
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