Blanco White - Letters From Spain

8/22/2019 Blanco White - Letters From Spain

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i c D o m a i n , G o o g l e - d i g i t i z e d

/ h t t p : / / w w w . h

a t h i t r u s t . o r g / a c c e s s_

u s e # p d - g o o g l e

Letters from Spain / by Leucadio Doblado [i.e. J. B. White].

White, Joseph Blanco, 1775-1841.London : H. Colburn, 1825.

http://hdl.handle.net/2027/nyp.33433070305580

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h t t p : / / w w w . h a t h i t r u s t . o r g / a c c e s s _ u s e # p d - g o o g l e

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http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/blanco-white-letters-from-spain 8/454

B LA D O .

.

C ORR CT D B TH A U THO R.

E W B U RL I N G TO JN S T R E T .

P u b l i c D o m a i n , G o o g l e - d i g i t i z e d

/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





as socontrived,asto

adiobeing derivedfrom

white,the wordDoblado

e repetitionofmy

toS panish,whichmy

ponus,toavoidthe

yandsound,perfectly

age.In short,Do-

riend,theS panishcler-

e sameperson whose

,andearlyturnofthink-

roductionto theper-

ountry,which,witha

ss,heagain laysbefore

hblancow hite .

/


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





ttershavebeenprinted

azine.

ed,beinclinedto

ntothe candourofhis

yaddress,wereitnot

bsolutelyrequiressome

onwhichtheseLet-

doubtwhetherthe

nners,customs,andopi-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





he A uthorhasen-

moralstateofhis

atelypreceding,andin

renchinvasion,maynot

y,andcolouredwithaview

tthattheA uthor

rethe Publicofthe

cementionedinhis

fLeucadioDoblado.

thefaithfulmemoirsofa

,asfarashis characterand

ustratethestateof the

th.

dfrom S pain,and,to

uthorissupposedtohave

denceof someyearsin

fictitiouscircumstance.

thepersondisguisedunder


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





elovedcountry,whose

embitteredhislife € ” that

tthismoment,ofa free

stodepriveherchildren

daccordingtotheirown

asnotforadayquittedE ngland,

andnowthecountryof

queorresentmen^

ltsolongand sowarmly

stingpicture ofS panish

a llherfaults, issti l land

hislove.Butsince no

r territory,canventure

ich,fosteredbyreligion,

liticalimprovements; be

paniardtodescribethe

anomalyintheN ew

ndthustoe pla intosuch

dwithhis nameasa


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





auseof anabsencewhich

uedintoadereliction of

t postwhichboth

edsodecidedlyforthe

a lents.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





” T o wn s en d s A c c ur a cy . € ” V i e w of

” R e ligionblendedw ithPublicandDo-

” C ustomsre latingtotheHostorE u-

a n d S o c ie t y at C a di z . € ” P a ss a ge b y S e a t o

” S t . L uc a r. € ” P a ss a ge u p t he G u ad a lq u iv i r

ndinternalE conomyoftheHouses

nocking, andgreetingattheDoor. € ” De-

evilletotheImmaculateConception

€ ” 2 2

tiona lC haracters. â€ N oblesand

” PurityofB lood. € ” T izondeEsparto .

” H i da l go s i n Lo w L if e .â € ” E x e c ut i on o f a n

ishPride , visibleamongtheLow erC lasses. € ”

ayatS ev il le . € ” S panishPo liteness. € ”

Mo d er n T im es . € ” D i nn e r. € ” S i e st a . € ”

es s o f th e S p a n is h L ad i es . € ” V a r io u s Us e s

h ar a ct e r of t h e S p a ni s h F e m al e s . p. 2 3 € ” 5 1


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





N T .

nkingS paniardstobecomeacquainted,

wingoneanother.Inclosureof a

fewF actsconnectedwiththe

tualandMoralCharacterof

p. 52 € ” 8

gtheTendencyofC atholicism. € ” A c-

utR omanCatholics. € ” A uricular

u ca t io n o f a S p a ni s h Bo y . € ” E v i l s a r is i ng

C lergy . € ” E ducationunderthe

ationofS aintPhilipN eri. € ” E x ercisesof

A ristote licPhilosophy taughtby theDomi-

o sWork s. € ” S panishUniversit iesandC olleges,

IndirectInf luenceof the Inquisitiononthe

pa in. € ” Menta lS trugglesofayoung

ectedwiththeestablishedS ystemof

ionsproducedby theC eremonyofC atho lic

tyandC onsistencyof theC atho licS ystem. € ”

elingleadingtothefinalRejection

” 118

ationalCustomsconnectedwiththose

€ ” 1 4 0

O lv e ra . € ” S p a ni s h Co u nt r y In n . € ”

adorS oulsinPurgatorybegged

€ ” C haractero fTwoN unsatOsuna.

c a r . € ” C u st o ms a t O lv e ra . € ” T a pa d as , o r ve i le d

D an c e. € ” T h e Ri b er a s La mp . p . 1 41 € ” 1 7 0

eville,in1800. € ” S piritualMethodsof

A lca ladeGuadairaescapesthe infec-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





N T .

ni s h Mi s si o na r ie s . € ” T h e V i r gi n o j t h e E u g k.

ary . € ” S tateofSev il lea f terthedisappear-

1 â € ” J 0

” Instancesofgrossmisconductamongihem.

€ ” B r ot h er S e b as t ia n a nd C h ar l es I I I . € ”

HermitsnearCordova..p.1 1 € ” 210

fortakingtheV eil. € ” C ircumstancesattending

ccountofayoungLadycompelledbyher

ticV ow s. € ” E scrupulos, orR e ligious

p i r it ua l F l i rt at io n. € ” N u n D oc to rs . p. 2 11 € ” 2 28

ndalusianC ustomsandF estiva ls. € ”

ay : C arniva l, p. 230. € ” A sh-Wednesday ,

n t , p. 2 4 i. € ” P a ss i on , or H o ly W ee k , p. 2 4 5.

51. € ” Thursday inthePassionWeek ,

r i da y, p . 2 r) 8 â € ” S a t ur d ay b e fo r e E a s te r , p. 2 0 4.

0 7. € ” C o rp u s Ch r is t i, p . 2 08 . € ” S a i nt J o hn s

a intB artho lomew , p. 277. € ” DetachedPre-

0. € ” F uneralsofInfantsandMaids,

nNames, p. 280. € ” C hristmas,

urto fMadrid, intheR eignofC harlesthe

sconnectedwiththe Influenceofthe

2 € ” 3 2 0

” Pretendientes. € ” LiteraryC haracters.


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N T .

hebeginningof theF renchInvasion. € ”

meofthe A rrestofthePrinceof

outionatA ranjuezandMadrid. € ” Massacreof

44 € ” 372

timeof thegenera lR isingaga instthe

a Journey f romMadridtoS ev il le ,

stremadura...p.373

ccountof theS uppressionof the Jesuitsin


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PA I N .

you,thata S paniard,

edmanyyearsinE ng-

tpersonto writean

dopinionsas theye ist

wtheminthelight

restanE nglishman.

ttravellersare subject

andperhapsthemoreso,

hta circumstancein

oderatek now ledgeof foreign

whousesonlyhiseyes,

escription ofe ternal

snarrativemaybedefi-

erest,itwillcertainly

ndludicrousblunders.

on,witha smattering

untryhe isv isit ing, e pe-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

heendeavourtocom-

chothermen sthoughts,

tofmentalrashness,

manyadoubtfulpoint

e unlimitedpower,I

ofusage,inwhatever

hitI madeonmy

iousbeyondmeasure

pression,andreading

CannonBreweryat

ldinghadsomere-

non-foundryinthis

dthatthegenuine

shouldnowcallcasting,

cannon.This,how-

stake.N otsothat

d nurserystaredme

utes,asinafine after-

eatmetropolis,onthe

ndw ealth, saidItomy -

ngtophilosophicindig-

dthe bestfeelingsof

sh. S ure ly, if Iamto judge

nurseries,theE nglish

yondthe unnaturalprac-

maternaldutiesupon

tseems,thepoorhelp-

keptandsuckledin

F oundling-Hospitals.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N * .

atI knewbutonesignifi-

and nursery.F or-

gmaterialsfor abook

e cursion,otherwise

thehonourofthe

nthecustoms and

.

hinkmyselfsafeenough

country ; butIw ishI

ceastothee ecutionof

obtain fromme.Iknow

myletterswill,bysome

waytosomeofthe

etheyhavebeenlongin

nk,Iintreat you,howI

theapprehensionthat

perwritersmayraise a

of thoseS unsorStars,

ngseas andmountains,

e,and blastthechar

E nglishscholar,which

eturntoS pain.Ihave

mirationofthe Irish

at,in spiteoftheirob-

eata,theysubmittomy

estionaboutyourpro-

urely itwouldbeno

islandofproud Dons,to

paperasa murdererofthe

w fortunatew asourfamous


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PA I N .

la tive , Esprie lla (foryou

afamilyconne ionbetw een

e)to f indoneof thebest

ngtotranslatehisletters.

wmetowritein my

osaythe truth,Ifeela

h remindsmeofthe

mysecondhome € ” the

tbreathof liberty € ” the

to retrieve,thoughim-

etimewhich,under the

dsuperstition,I hadlost

il lnotde layatask w hich,

wmetocompleteit,I

shiptoyou,andofgrati-

ntry.

toyour countryman,

andli velinessofhis

themassofusefulin-

markwithwhichhe has

wouldbe impossible

niardtoaddtotheco l-

of thenationalcharacter,

ve; andImustconfess

me intheselectionof

falleninto suchmis-

nothingshortof perfect

anprevent.ButI

L e tt e rs f r om E n g la n d.

eyears178 and1787.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

mtoyouasa guidefor

heplaces whoseinha-

echiefsubjectofmy

ayuponyouthe

erence,I shallbeginby

a" loca lhabitation for

ndmodesofthinking I

urtray.

sea,as,inafine

nificentharbour,is

beauty.Thestrong

ky,reflectedfromthelofty

e,whichface thebay,

atorfromtheveryverge

ally washestheram-

ntheoppositesideof the

rowneckofland,which

ringcontinent.When,

covertheupperpart of

epinnaclesof glazed

china,thatornamentthe

atroofs arecrowned

attimes intothedistant

e likeapleasingdelusion € ”

€ ” thanthe lof ty , uniform

singgraduallybefore

howeverunwilling,to

fterlandingona crowded

edepth oftheramparts

ge,atthe farthestend


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

stsubmittothescrutiny

seofficers.E ighteen-

ndswith thekeysof

the ve ationofseeing

teredaboutin theutmost

arcelydoesaboat

thelanding-stairsofthe

allegos,(nativesofthe

ethe onlyportersinthis

pinto theboat,and

by thestrongerseizing

cessfulchampionbe-

thetownto theplace

yourabode.A sonly

oroughfare € ” thesea- gate ,

and-gate,Pmrtade

comebywaterareobliged to

” aplacenotunlik eCovent

ypeoplee poseallsorts

sale.F ishisalsosold

e itlaidout uponthe

easit wastakenoutof

-ofthismarketare

llclassesofS paniards,

s, areratherloudand

Buthere isaconten-

hundredpeasants,who

gutturalvoicebeupper-

gersofthe priceand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ord,thenoiseis such

ohas notlivedforsome

pleBar.

superstition,isso ,

ewholesystemofpublic

in, thatIfearIsha llt ire

urrenceofthat subject.

ani nvoluntarytrainof

dless topic.If,how-

horoughlyacquainted

rofmy country,you

thenationalreligion.

S painisboundless.It

onintotwocomprehen-

semblers.Donot,how-

yfar fromwishingto

setheseinvidious

eeveryS paniardeither

pocrite:yetIcannot

ncnolyfact,thatthe

emustunavoidably

ngus, ataintofone

w threatensevery

roachingsystemof

hurchofRome,withdeath

ereevery indiv idua lisnotonly

eperil ofbothbodyand

thatlaw ; mustnotan

enceaccruetothe be-

tsuchasdisbe lieve insecret,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

gradingdeference,orof

i lence, didIsay? N o;

ewsthenecessityofe -

whatyouarenot. The

ualmay,atpleasure,

estlyproudbosom.

youanylongeri n

of thisf l ight € ” thisun-

heplainnarrativeI had

llenoughtobelievethat

ngland,mylandingat

myheartat thesightof

naturallyproducea

hpainand gloominess

ant.I hadenjoyedthe

ralyears andnow,alas

nirresistiblydrawnback

tion,tostretchoutmy

dbowmy necktothat

galledmyverysoul.

deDios € ” (laugh,mydear

youcallmymona-

oso,whohaveneverlived

e E uropeanjungles,

atis hideousandve-

en, SanJuandeDiosisthe

tmeetstheeyeupon en-

e.A singleglanceat

dthestrongestandmost

art,whenjustas Iwas


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

reetto avoidthecrowd,

ndofahand-bellmademe

sspretendingnottohear

s,andturnanothercor-

kneelinthe mudtilla

econsecratedwaferto

dslowlyin hissedan-

of thestreettothe

arthebell.

s,is e pressedina

a lR ey , env iendolo ; aDios, en

af tersupply ingitse ll ipticalform,

mageisduetothek ingupon

€ ” i. e . thehost, preceded

dage, thebell € ” thevery

ustadd, asaprevious

ofo llow , thatGodandthe

anguageofthiscountry,

styisappliedtoboth.

,the dutiesthatmen

andaforeignerisoften

pressedby theSpaniards,

asedtograntthemlife

more.I mustadda

cearisingfromthis

enthepriest,attended

edby eightortenpeople,

s,hasbrokenintothe

on,andgone through

halfS panish,which


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

utes,oneofthe wafersis

sket,andputintothe

liesinbed.To swallow

ofanyparticle € ” w hich,

Trent,(andIfully

tainsthesame Divine

” isanoperationofsomedif fi-

e,theimproprietyof

mighteasilyhappen,

omesforthwithaglass

loudvoiceasks the

estygonedown? " * The

dclerktodecide whether

peditedbymeansofhis

llego,andmyself.

himback , asif Ihadsud-

to thedirectionin

withamostdetermined

” S u M a g e st a d. P r et e nd i ng

lyround,andwasnow

butitw ouldnotdo. F ired

harshvoice,andin

province,repeated

ios € ” S uMagestad

Thismanisaheretic "

dreadfulword:it

tookoutmypocket-

dsareHapasadosuMagestad


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

tontheleast dirtypart

onit € ” notindeedtopray ,

conformitytothe

asbeatingmybreast

d,as gentlyasitcould

€ ” tocursethehourw hen

grademyself,andtrem-

ofabeinglittle removed

als,whomitwashisoc-

burdens.

sof S pain,these

requent.N orareyou

bythe holybellinthe

ouse.Itssoundoperates

niards.Inthemidstof a

d € ” " S u A f a ge s ta d â € ”

s kneesuntilthetink-

reyouatdinner â € ”

nbed? â € ” youmust, at

preposterouseffectof

tthe theatres.Onthe

ymilitaryguard,the

awnout, andassoonas

eybendtherightknee,

cingthe pointofthe

sanof f icer sguard^ is

orofa S panishtheatre,I

eeveat theeffectofthe

torsand thecompany.

dsf romallpartsof the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thatmomentuponhis

ng,ortherattlingof the

ishushedfor afew

hebellgrowingfainter

ntisresumed,andthe

cemoreupontheirlegs,

sforthe interruption. So

ly habit,thatIhad

ndonbeforeI could

n theevening,without

dtoperformadue

gfromthewealthand

reached duringher

dewiththe Coloniesof

oneof thefew tow nsof

ment,canbecompared

te inE ngland.The

cheerful.Thewomen,

ul,arereally fascinating.

eveningparties,which a

adyof thehouseentitles

verylivelyandagree-

etteprevails:youmay

leavetheroomwhen

ies,however,willsoon

the houseandcompany

ference andaw eek s

pentoa greatdealof

ponthecauseofyour


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eguitar,or thepiano,

at thesemeetings.But

oftheS panishladies

ntcomparisonwiththose

ondon.In singing,

egreatadvantage € ” thatof

w hichyourEnglishMisses

atbreachofpropriety.

eingconfinedtothe

built,havemadethe

Real,andPortS t.

esort,especiallyinthe

water,toPortS t.

rage, o faboutanhourand

betweenthe twoplaces,

eenalarge cityandits

engersareincessantly

lsun-set.Thispassage

angerincaseof astrong

mer,or ofroughweather,

fthe Guadalete,ariver

adiz, byPortSt. Mary s,

ksofshiftingsands,which

any.Thepassage-boats

owdedwithpeopleofall

ards,however,arenotso

generallyfoundyour

oofthem,maleor

nce,together,andthey

someconversation.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

dtoastranger,whichcustom

nd,wouldbetakenforan

n consequently litt le

eaquatic e cursions.

emalepartof the

withfearor sickness,

boisteroussortofmirth,

dalusiansofallclasses.

anishw ordA rana,

uthernaspirate,asif

nowwhetherI shall

nofthiskindof amuse-

tiesofaction,while

orwordswhichdo not

y . It is € ” if Imayuse

a c o nv e rs a ti o na l r ow o r , to

emblageofideas,the

,whatrompingis to

midst,however,of

uting,assoon asthe

esteersman,raisinghis

ingaparish-clerk,

mpanyinwordsamount-

Letuspray forthesoulso fa llthat

Thepiousaddress

ng effectuponthe

nuteseveryone

whilstasailor-boygoes

percoins fromthe

giouslyspentinpro-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 15

inpurgatory.This

riotis resumedwith

ypoint oflanding.

car, atow nofsome

tthemouthofthe

herethisriveris lostin

ofmorethanamile in

eville,ofabouttwenty

river, istedious; butIhad

youth,withgreat

rgot thechangewhich

adeuponmyfeelings.

ceiseithercomfortableor

ucarboatsareclumsyand

commodationforpassen-

veredwithhatches,

otstanduprightunder

ss,looselyletdownto

theonlypartitionbe-

thesailors.It wouldbe

oranyperson,abovethe

conveniencesofami ed

ats.F ortunately,itis

ensivetoobta inthee -

mustsubmit,however,at

othedisagreeablecir-

man sshouldersf romthe

f,which,fromtheflat-

tingforthepassengersat

wentyyards.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

of theriver,isfor the

e.Theeyeroves invain

roundi nsearchof

itation.Herdsofblack

heep,are seenontwo

edbydifferentbranches

ndalusianbulls,keptby

ures,where,withaview

arena,they aremade

areseenstragglinghere

nkoftheriver,tossing

wingthegroundon the

nd thegrowing

schannel,obligethe

e ceptw henthere isa

.A ftertwotedious

blenights,Ifoundmyself

argeoctagontowerof

allysupposedtohave

r,whichstandsbythe

lofA ndalusia,myna-

tedtown.Townsend

ituation,itsgeneral

ebuildings,whichare

nos.Mytaskwillbecon-

suchpeculiaritiesofthe

orwhichmusthave

dinghouseson the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

a issogenera linA n-

ourneytoMadrid,I

losstoconceiveaha-

ershape.The houses

gh,witha gallery,or

meimplies,runsalong

eesidesof thePdtio,

gane ternalcommuni-

abovestairs,andforming

orsof theground-floor

tesofroomsarea

,beingalternatelyin-

seasonsofwinterand

dleofOctoberevery

ompletebustle fortw oor

tmentsarestrippedof

chairandtable € ” nay ,

lherlaboratory € ” are

ers.Thischangeof

matslaidoverthebrick-

thanthoseusedin sum-

ainstcold,whichis

flatandopenbrasspan

,raiseda fewinches

dwoodenframe,on

, mayresttheirfeet

adeofbrush-wood,

. Thefumesofchar-

h; butsuchistheef -

vesareseldomawareof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

fromthechokingsmell

eat,however,arenu-

endof Maythewhole

airs.A thickawning,

mymeansofropes and

ec entralsquare,ona

ouse.Thewindow-

rommorningtill sun-set,

tosee oneanother,

tlatelybeene posedto

hefloorsarewashed

aporationofthewater

abatethe heatofthe

deofa delicatesortof

etyofcolours,isused

io, orsquare,isor-

ts,especiallyroundajet

usesoccupiesits centre.

ladiessitandreceive

Thestreet-doorsare

variablysofromsunsettill

t. Threeorfourvery

inalinefrom thestreet-

o f thePdtio and, asin

eetatnightfor aTer-

reets, thetownpresents

dscenetill nearmid-

eople,to avoidthe

bitations,passa great


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

sationattheirdoors;

tionsare movingabout

friends,orto enjoythe

.

owever,ontheap-

leretreatto the

htedstreetsaredeserted

comesodanger-

butthe youngand

romtheTertuliawith-

vant,sometimesbear-

eaccesstoevery

mmer,isnowchecked

bitants.Theentrance

apassagewithtwodoors,

thercalledthemiddle-

atthetopof thestairs)

This passageis

apureA rabicw ord, whichmeans,

ddle-doorisgenerally

outeroneis neverclosed

tstobe admitted

door,andbeprepared

h,asit presentsoneof

ichyouare sofondof

r asunworthyofa

ch,by-the-by,must

nsloud € ” infact, a trades-

n € ” isansweredw ithaTV ho


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

onthestrangerreplies,

entedepaz € ” andthedooris

quiries.Peasantsand

or," Hail,spotless

purisima Theansw er, in

thininthewordsS in

C onceivedw ithoutsin. This

efiercecontroversy,

ehundredyearsago,

andtheDominicanfriars,

hadornot beensubject

soforiginalsin. The

gtograntany e emp-

ciscanscontendedforthe

e.The S paniards,and

,withtheircharacteristic

ourofour Lady,and

nsowarmly,thatthey

heirpartyinto the

ll soprevalentinA nda-

hedispute,andbefore

ilencedbythe autho-

eofS evillebeganto

hes,and,sallyingforth

ureofthesinless Mary,

dsurmountedbyacross,

tdirections,singing a

onception,andrepeating

.Theseprocessions

s,andconstituteone of


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 21

s place.Thoughcon-

erclasses,thosethat

characteristicimportance

chattachestothe most

ciationsinthiscountry.

bbyprocessionspresents

supthestreetfromside

ngers,ande pecting

nall kindsofweather,

.Theirawkwardand

atS eville,S inpecados,

mthetheo logica lopinionin

raised.

nt,underCharlesIII.,

seagernesstohavethe

inMaryaddedbythe

RomanCatholicfaith.

er,withthecautious

sguideditsspiritual

eepclearfromastretch

omeoftheirown

uestion; butsplitting,

th theologicalprecision,

werelevelledagainst

oldnesstoassertthat

vedany ta intf rom" her

and, hav ingpersonif iedthe Imma-

eclared,thattheS panish

dA mericaw ereunderthe

tmysteriousevent.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

niversaljoyoverthe

atedwithpublic re-

heA tlantic.Theking

ishedbythe emblemof

on € ” aw omandressedin

awwasenacted,requiring

fa firmbeliefinthe

romeveryindividual,pre-

greeattheuniversities,

of thecorporations,

boundin S pain.This

tomechanicsupontheir

d.

akoff,forfearof

efor theconfidential

eIcouldtrust itwithout

askinoneofthe cells

llnotfail,however,

oonascircumstances

h e en d o f th e V o l u me .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ourletter, acqua intingmew ith

s d e si r e th a t yo u s ho u ld t a ke a n a ct i ve

onS pain,hasincreased

work,whichIfeared

esometo ourfriendthan

themselveswithour

oeludeourobservation;

,fleetawaythroughthe

wordor thoughtshould

dingtrackof theircourse.

beofgreateruseto me

me somuchasyourob-

w ever, mydecliningtogive

alcharacteroftheS pa-

deredsuchdescriptions

€ ” amereassemblageof

dbadqualitiesarecon-

ittle foundationinna-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rso fobservationcanbe, at

tensive,sominuteandge-

of embodyingthepe-

toan abstractbeing,

f themall.Y etthis

mptaftera fewweeks

w eareaccustomedtoe pectf rom

calGrammarisfirstput

therefore,attempteither

n,butendeavourtocol-

enableotherstoperceive

ecivil andreligiousstate

ofitsinfluenceonthe

ionofthisportionofman-

endlessmodifications

mstances,e ternaland

al.Iwillnot overlook,

nsofsociety,andshall

hthechiefsourcesof

andcustomhave esta-

divisionofthepeople

sandplebeians.ButImust

akennotionwhichthese

anE nglishman.In

efamily,eitherbyimme-

heking spatent,isen-

msomeburdens,andtothe

eges,-belongstotheclass

ethatthisdistinction


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ofa certainportionof

dfromtheMoors.In

€ ” Icannotsayw hether

thek ing, a f teranenumeration

emptionstowhichheraises

alclause,thatthey,shall

cts,asHidalgosdecasay

Hida lgos, i. e . nobles(forthew ords

ofaknownfamilyand

f thee emptionsattachedto

rinferiornobility,have

es,not,however,with-

therankofsuchas

eamendmentofthe law.

leman, orC avallero € ” aname

ivilegedgentry inall itsnu-

adations € ” cannotbeba l-

ndnonebutanHidalgocan

.Intheroutineof promo-

mustreceive acommission

avehisturn € ” andeventhat

chasarefortunateenoughto

n seldomescapethere-

ouderfellow-officers;

onofPinos," pine-trees

bly, to theheightrequiredina

man,amongtheRomans,

rstsituationsinthe army

ate.

t,toavoidanequivocal


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





OM S P A I N .

thertoall hismalechil-

a femalecannottrans-

sue,herbeingthedaughter

enecessitytoconstitute

e country,iscalled," a

â € ” nobledequatrocostados:

nts,theirparents,and

belongedtotheprivileged

uarenoblemencanreceive

utweare fallenonde-

namemanya knightin

nishedwith morethan

rityof thenotaries, whoact

and drawingupthe

uiredontheseoccasions.

tinctionofblood,which,

ain,andtowhichthe mass

yattached,thatthemean-

wantof itasa sourceof

whichheisdoomedto

rity.The leastmi ture

sh,orJewishblood,taints

distantgeneration.N or

ha factdieawayinthe

unnoticedfromthe

softheparties.N ota

signorantthata family,

ofmanhavekeptacon-

centralpartofthe -town,had

shedby theInquisitionfor


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

wellrecollecthow,whena

y,scarcelyventuringto

ttyyoungwomanwho

op,forfear,asI saidto

personfreefromtainted

anoldChristian,clean

n, Christianoviejo,limpio

ha.The severityofthis

copinionenforcingit,

everyemploymentin

ludesthemevenf romthe

associations,whichare

ofthelowestranks.I

t . PeteraS paniard, he

nceintoheaventopeo-

ndthemtoaretired

otoffendtheeyes of

nsa idof law s € ” andIbe-

ries,ancientandmodern,

” thattheyare lik ecobw ebs, w hich

tothe strongandbold,

regenerallyapplicable

t,that manyofthe

blesseofthis country,

heirbloodfromJewsand

hasbeentracedupto

inamanuscriptbook,

fGovernment,northe

avebeenable tosup-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





M S PA I N .

edT izondeE spaha € ”

. B utw ealthandpow erhave

andwhileapoorindus-

elingsnotunlikethose

dlyventuretosalutehis

oth,hisfourthorfifth

oftheInquisitionfor

” theproudgrandee, perhapsa

atriarchs,willthinkhim-

thefirstgentlewomanin

ingshima hat,inaddi-

whichhemaybealready

king.But thisrequires

randeeis thatofco-

king.Hence,by twoor

meantthatit hasaright,

titles ofgrandeeship.

randeestointermar-

andtheestatesandtitles

es,anenormousaccumu-

urshasbeen madeina

fevery familyiscon-

posterousaccumulation.

bydispensation,intheir

or heiress; andsuchis

mesandtitles whichevery

hatif youshouldlook

venby theSpanishA m-

hehappenstobea mem-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

shfamilies,youwillfind

rgefoolscapsheet,em-

hothe greatmanis

the whole.A sfaras

thisambitiousdisplayof

t,atthistimeof day,be

ttherelurks amore

andinvidioussystemso

urfirstnobility.S ur-

ndents,andavoidedby

mdisposedforan inter-

inferiorityprevails,few

mptfromthenaturalconse-

” grossignorance, into lerable

houghseldom,astrong

owever,bejust,and

dualswitheveryviceof the

ktheprevalentsenseof

.The grandeeshave

heirslavishbehaviourat

diumbytheir intolerable

nedtheirestatesby mis-

vagance,andimpoverished

oftheirimmensepos-

bearevo lutioninSpa in,

spirit,woulddenythem

n theconstitution,to

entrights, andtheir

ethem.Thuse cluded

r dutyofkeepingthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thethroneandthe peo-

eswillremainaheavybur-

hile,eitherfearingfortheir

mpatientunderreforms

themandtheclergy,

to jointhecrownin

trarygovernment.

pportunitypresented

onstitutionafterthe

hasbeensanctioned

ges € ” Imeanyourow n. We

mentsine istence and

e bythebanefulin-

mightyetbya proper

lforces,laydownthe

mprovablefreeconsti-

t wehavebeentoo

ebestuseofthe first

psthecrown,aswell

sandbishops,willbesuf-

nto fpow erinthepopular

madeworsethanuseless

sy.Iamneither what

noramIinditinga

nishedgloriesof crowns,

levellingspiritIdetest

doI abhoreverysortof

wever,mustpass,and

beforeanysuchevils

panishdespotismis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ritatingnaturewhich

adness.It isnotthe

terwhoselashsows

his slaves.Itisthe

sbandmanwhomutilates

efears.The degraded

ousoftheinjury,and

might thinkhecomesat

ch,Ibelieve,isour state.

herill-contrivedthan

fthelowerclasses are

contribute.Theyall

eymaydislikethe

ialrightsarehardly ine ist-

dpeasantryfindlittleto

rbitantpowerwhichthe

feofthegrandees,at

tand wastingintheir

nationare morein-

atethem andthough

gertosupporttheir

tatetheF renchin

theirmansions.

itual powerJuan

reedyandcapaciousastomach,

andale.Onesingle

and restless,andthat

orcanbe,numerousin

inunsophisticatedS paniard.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eanconsistsofsuchas

ncroachmentsoftyranny

s € ” w hoseprideofmind,

talstrength,causethem

hourly,undertheneces-

iry andcrookedpaths

perstitionhaveconfined

paniards.Butthese,com-

nation,arebuta mere

underfavourablecircum-

enttheirforceswith the

eywillhave,at first,

onceal theirfavourite

rishthosenationalpreju-

alviewsknown,would

massof thepeoplemay

eneworderofthings,

of changeandimprove-

vepoliticalhabitswhich

otismhasbred androoted

armymaycastthe

rdonthe popularsideof

uitsits views.Butif

obilityareneglectedin

tivepower € ” if , insteadof

oflibertywiththe

linfluence,theyareonly

privileges,withouta

eymaybeshovelledand

tainofdeadand inert


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 38

d,in theirmassiveand

dytoslidedownatevery

allactivepartybelow,

theirstrength.A house,

osedofgrandeesin their

s, not, asisdoneatpresent, by

tlesaccumulatedinthe

hebishops, andofacertainnum-

chosenfromthesupreme

ureof thegreatestim-

distinctionofblood,

stevilin thepresent

shnobility),might,indeed,

tiontoa slowerpace

raleagernessof apopular

odywouldpossessa

chwouldfaithfullymark

provementinthenation.

gedchamberwould

ndenlightenedbythe

alpower,andthepervading

on:while,shouldthey

eattemptata freecon-

seasedand neglected

rthewholebody,or,at

zardofabloodyanddanger-

me toreturntoour

esoutthrough every


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





M S PA I N .

thatprivilege,S painis

arntheirlivingin the

heprovinceofA sturias

thatsmallportionof the

eS panishnameand

fthe conqueringA rabs

thatmountainoustract,

otshewa legaltitleto

ainedbyhisancestors,at

ad eitherashareinthe

einvaders,orwas

e emptionfromsuch

elle clusive lyuponthe

numerousassertorsof

eA sturiansofthepresent

intheearliesttimesof

verysoldierwasraisedtothe

rcumstancesarestrangely

f thepoorestprovinces

habitantshaving,forthe

erpatrimonyfromtheir

scularframe,arecom-

itamongthemorefeeble

capitalofA ndalusia

mploymentsofwatermen,

, asIf indinthose ine haustiblesources

ovelsbjtheauthorof " Waverley,

speasantsinthesamemannerasN oble ,

ythe S paniards.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

sebelongingtothetwo

o afraternity,whose

thee clusiveuseofa

eprivilegewhich they

atofaffordingthetwenty

emoveablestageon

tisparadedin public,

hrinedina smalltemple

ersareconcealed

gings,whichreachthe

fthestage.Theweight

ormous; yetthesetwenty

rtofthe headandneck,

ingeaseandregularity,

mtheimpulseofsteam,or

power.

dalgosareemployedin

oughthelawallowsthem

class,publicopinioncon-

level.Theonlychance

oblemento bepublicly

ddeferenceis,unfor-

yfeelan unconquerable

fbeingdeliveredintotherude

k Ketch. Wehadhere, tw o

is, whichIshallrelate,as

ofournationalpreju-

as takenwithinthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ncia,or.chiefcourtof

ghbornandbrought up

society,was,byfamily,

elationsamongthe

Ibelievethe nameof

Herrera,andthathe was

hirtyE nglishmilesfrom

al. B utIhavenot, atpre-

ningtheaccuracyof

ngering,asusual,four

seunfortunatemenwere

dersandhighwayrob-

ufferdeath.Therelations

eingthisfatalevent,had

ssofthetrial, inorderto

oavertthestainwhich

hirdremove,would

ediedinmid-airlike a

tionto thejudges,accom-

ocuments,claimingfor

fhis rank,andengaging

tendingthee ecutionofa

inggrantedasamatter

netookplace.A ta

owsonwhich thefour

angedin acluster,from

ossbeam,alldressedin

rhandstied beforethem,

tuallyridesuponthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





rA I N .

mayplacehis footasin

sra isedascaffo ldabouttenfeet

ifteenbytwenty,the

o theground,onall

ackbaize.In thecentre

a sortofarm-chair,with

stwhich,bymeansof

ascrew,theneckis

handle.Thismachine

" a s t i ck â € ” f r om t h e ol d -

gling,bytwistingthe

oflightsofstepson

,affordeda separate

and thepriest,the

erandhisattendant.

oosegownofblack

markofdistinctionpecu-

sridingonanass, or

)attendedby apriest,

edbysoldiers.Black

bind himtothearms

ethoughtdishonourable.

thelast absolutionfrom

g,withwhichtheun-

ovidedforthatmelan-

ngtoetiquetteheshould

downforthe e ecu-

shedthisbarbarousmethodofinflict-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N ,

Christianhumility,he

entencebeinge e-

cks,fivefeethigh,with

aproportionatelength

datthecorners ofthe

reehours,a suitable

heposthumousfriends

adthey assistedhimto

attheyspentin this

w,might,perhapshave

d. Butthesehonours

tiveactofnoblesse,of

giventothesurviving

ongthelegal proofsof

aveactedundertheidea

nlytoaddlustreto the

areer.

fulgradationsof

paniardshaveformedto

astfoundationinthe

icult todescribe.

necessaryqualification,

s,tobe admittedinto

meanssufficient,by

everyHidalgotoa

th e " b l ue b l oo d â € ” s a ng r e

desbywhichthe vital

egedhue,wouldperple

ejudices,however,

rceatMadrid, e cept


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nsuchmaritimetowns

ecommercehasraised

gnfamiliesintoconse-

vadingspiritofvanity

eseventhe lowest

eredinthe evidentmor-.

dmechanicsareapt to

memodesof address

t aveilonthe humble-

all amanbythe

er,coachman,wouldbe

ya lle pecttobecalled

me,or bythegeneral

bothcaseswith the

essthew orde pressingthe

superiority:asMay-

R abadan, chie f shep-

r, ba il if f . These, andsim ilarnames,

n,andsound wellin

utnofemalewould

sedcook,washer-wo-

landactasif , hav inga

ank,misfortunealone

rty,unlessitbee treme,

f familyforthesociety

rgymen,thoughple-

lreceived; butthesame

tendedtomonksand

mannersbetraytooopenly

.Wholesalemerchants,

ofHidalgos,arenot


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

y.In thelaw,attorneys

dtobe underthelineof

nk,asinE ngland,de-

rwealthandpersonal

arenearlyinthesame

uaintedwithwhatis

fpeople,youwillpro-

hoftheirdailylife:take

st, northelastof the

ta regularfamilymeal.

colate,andbuttered

olletes.Irishsalt-butter

theheatof theclimate

riesof theda iry , e ceptin

henorth.E veryone

eritsuits him and

theycomef rommass € ” a

d,evenbysuchascannot

ghlyreligious.A fter

repairtotheiroccupa-

hoseldomcall uponone

musementofmusicanda

ntedon thatdayfor

ConsecratedHost,

ht,takesplacethrough-

ewotherlarge towns.

” thejubilee as,bya

those whovisitthe

tledtothe plenaryindul-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 41

es,rewardedthetrouble

Rome,onthefirst

” apoorsubstitute , indeed,

h,in formertimes,drew

sof theRomanempire

successfulfora time,

edeverytwenty-five

orpapal indulgences

cess, few w ouldmovea

akealong journey,to

benefitof thePopeand

sedesperatecircum-

rthoughtitbetterto send

indulgence,to thedis-

towaitinvainfor

Rome.Tothiseffortof

etheinestimableadvan-

ay,to performaspiritual

R ome; w hich, tothosew ho

tecturalbeauty,isin-

sprofitable,as apilgri-

Capitol.

e athome,where,em-

ye pectthemorning

ealreadytoldyouhow

togainanintroductionto

casionwillproduce

hehouse,whenyouare

isyours.Uponthe

maydrop inasoftenas


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

hourafterhour, inthe

chance,themost in-

thehouseinduces

ofthehyperbolicalcivi-

enanE nglishnoble-

ouandme, wassome

country,hewishedto

ona; but,theinnbeing

imselfandfamily,hewas

ntry-houseinthe neigh-

ppenedat thistime

whomourfriendhad

respects andina

ments,assuredhisLord-

ouseandhisvillawere

dy seyessparkled

herve edthatherhus-

enttosecure thevilla

eas tothesincerityof

tbepersuadedthatsuch

uldbetaken,inthis coun-

the € ” " MadamIamat

thw hicheverygentlemanaddresses

chant,nodoubt,to his

vedaverycivilnote,ac-

ntryhouse.But,inan-

anaw kw arde cuse, and

n.Thepoorman wasso

at heonlyfollowedthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

country,accordingto

not toofferanypart

ueithermentionor

anishetiquetteisjustand

forasit wouldnotpardon

o itwouldneverforgive

rprisedatthestrangemi -

whichappearsinthe

roomshaveglassdoors;

se,it wouldbehighly

withagentleman,un-

et,whenaladyis slightly

snot scrupletoseeevery

ladyseldomtakesa

evershakeshimby the

nofano ldacqua intance

ce,orwhentheywish

ent,thecommonsaluteis

edwomanmustnotbe

r mustshesittete-a-tete

henthedoorsof theroom

nasshe ismarried, shemay

ases,and sitalonewith

eryday.Y ouhavein

sofS panishjealousy.Ican,

ifS panishhusbandswere,

ndold playsrepresent

hasundergoneamore


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

e,andin afewhouses,

vitationstodineare

mee traordinaryoccasions,

erforminghisf irstmass € ”

€ ” and, inthemorew eal-

ysofthe headsofthe

calleda convite,orfeast.

toyourprivatedinners,

er byoneofthesepar-

y , ontheseoccasions, is

onda € ” adinnerf romthe

esare dressedataninn,

ervedattable.TheS pa-

thebest sort,aresoill

equiredattable,that

esandforks,arebrought

he dinner.Thenoise

stsisinconceivable.E very

pitabletreatwithmirth

ghSpaniardsare, commonly ,

susedveryfreelyon

eydonot continueattable

ponthedeath ofanyone

tivessend adinnerof

funeral,thattheymay

etroubleof preparingan

heirkindredas haveat-

Decorum,however,

occasions.

edwithE nglishhospita-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I .

th acustom,which,

nS pain,hadneverat-

vitationtodinner,which,

nwriting,mustnotbe

sal.Perhapsour com-

esitnecessarytoascer-

aybeinearnest,anda

madeitarule togivena-

never,withoutproper

wherefortunesoseldom

eutensil.Thefirstinvi-

shouldbeansw ered,

sandthanks; " byw hicha

whatnoonewishes himto

hof goodbreeding,the

oumaybeginto suspect

est,andanswerhimin

taUstedeneso € ” " donot

A tthisstageof thebu-

gonetoofar torecede,

ndaccepted.

ittedthementionof

nd,asitappearstome,

eenS panishandancient

nt.Perhapsyourecol-

nshislittleworkcalled

tatinghow Socratesandhis

aterpartof thecompany

described wereinvited

thens.Thefeastwaa


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ictoryofa youngman,

natthe Panathensean

ghomewithhisyoung

e sawS ocratesandhis

stedtheformerina

er,and,afteralittle ban-

speculations,requested

ogivehimthe pleasure

They, how ever, says

swasproper,thankedhim,

butwhenitclearlyap-

t therefusal,follow-

atthew ordsinX enophon

on,andthatthephrase

per,maybeappliedto

maybe referred,withas

hto thanksandrefusal,

vestatedinclinesme

e. Thetruthis,that

n E ngland,thechief

asonofsocialconverse,an

earsomewhatinthe

€ ” w hicheverymanofde-

ept atarilfroma mere

omedegreeofcompul-

s,weknowtheabuse

h GreeksandRomans

dinner-hunters andit


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

hat atruegeutleman

gainstthemostdistant

rtunatestarvelings.

erdinner,called S iesta,

peciallyin A ndalusia,

heheatproduceslanguor

takingawalk,just

eryprevalent.Many

heirafternoonwalk,re-

whichnowbeginto bein

bletow nofSpa inis

k,wherethebetter

ernoon.Theseplaces

omA lamo,acommonname

treeswhichshadesuch

esrunin thedirection

sit eithertorestthem-

talk,in whispers,with

usementw hich, inthe idiom

ssedbythestrangephrase,

topluck thehen- turk ey. We

veralfountainsofthemost

hantwentyor thirty

dingnearlya quart,

de trouslyclashingtwo

atwithoutanydangerof

upaprettylively tinkling

lbells.S ogreatis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

hthesepeoplesell tothe

atmostofthem live

attheythus earnin

rade dependsontheir

erycall,theirneatnessin

mostofall, ontheirskilful

aggerypeculiartothe

sia.A knowingair,anarch

ordsofpraiseand endear-

" Mysoul, andmanyothers,

igh-bredladywill hear

reinfalliblemeansofsuccess

alwiththepublicat

hemoretenderpart of

nthesewalkspre-

cers intheirregimentals,

nthe ircassock s, black cloak s, and

unlikethoseofthecoal-

andofgentlemenw rappedupin

orm,withoutwhicha well-

ashamedtoshewhimself.

essissusceptibleoflittle

thehouse beingonfire

womantostepoutof doors

alledBasqutna,orS aya,

ging fromtheheadover

onthe breastlikeashawl,

emantillais, gene-

withbroad lace.In


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

whitemantillasareseen

min themorning,and

hurchinsucha profane

able,in allseasons,both

nda lusianw omanmight

herfan.Thefan,besides,

enaturalorganof

onveysthoughttoagreaterdis-

efarthestend ofthe

cheeredby aquick,

n,accompaniedwithse-

nobjectofindifferenceis

malinclinationofthe fan,

cold. Thefan,now,

per; nowcondensesa

geyes,which taketheir

ntletapofthe fancom-

careless; awaving

certaintwirlbetween

oran iety € ” aquick

olds,indicateseagerness

onwiththe e pres-

ywomen,thefanisa

rismoreeasilyfeltthan

paredwiththefascinat-

tremesensibil ity ? S uchas

harms,willhardlyfind

ungwomenofA ndalusia.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N " .

irst view,pleasethe

veeverydaytill theygrow

antagesofeduca-

nalaccomplishments,the

sa perpetualglowover

dthewarmthoftheirheart

onto theirmostindif-

re,likeatoofondmother,

perstitionhascompleted

y oftheirmindsis

ntof careandinstruction,

powersto please,im-

notionthat lifehasbut

Weretheircharmsthe

flamewhich flutters

renchwomen,they

othepeace anduseful-

.But,insteadofbeing

en,theyare, generally,

fewS panishwomen,and

,amongtheA ndalusians,

coquettes.Ifit may

there ismoreofthat

females.Thefirst,

anddeprivedbyanignorant,

ousgovernment,ofevery

eedanhonestambition,

ndpartof theirmanly

stfeelingsofthetender

eremischiefssake,the very


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 51

ness. B utour sisthe

diseasethateverpreyed

ciety.With someof

peoplecanpossess(you

ryburstofnationalpartia-

egraded € ” w earedepraved,

tocherishande a ltevery

s,ourmortalenemies,

nt.Tosetthe practical

inastrikinglight is,un-

lities.Y etsuch,Imust say,

ossessonthis melancholy

rcomemymindwith

then,takeleaveofthe

ngshavehurried me,

evertheslightestaid is

dinthis country,it

shingquicknessandcapa-

y,noothernationin the

elyinstancesofa glow-

reservingunspotted

f publicopinion,butin

ts.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





M S PA I N .

ewithanacquaintance

manof thistow n € ” forw hom,

I havefeltagrowing

ripen intothewarmest

er,andcommonsuffering,

veoftenthe readiestand

humanfriendship:and

ddedtheblendingpower

oughtsandsentiments,

econfidencewithwhich

berty,their fortune,

dsofeachother € ” ima-

rethewarmthand

artsthusunited.

okenthetrammelsof

nderfulquicknesstomark

etcautionisso necessary,

t handoffellowship


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

,theheartand mindare

sides.Thereare bullies

nimalcourage:andIhave

rofcommittingmyself

ashazardingpropo-

hhe wassuretolay,in

nfessor,thene tmorn-

etwith freeandunquali-

thecompany,would

soulandbodybycarry-

ntotheI nquisitors.But

end wasvisibleataglance

ion,Icouldnotfeel the

attheremightlurkin his

thefollywhichcan

d, underaprete to f

hene t. Hetoo , either

mylong residencein

m somethingmorepro-

soonopenedhiswhole

reddownrightheresy.

fulpledge,the S cythian

thersbloodcouldnot

sin interestanddanger.

groveisnot more

pantedacross oneofour

meridiansunin A ugust,

trustyfriendstosome

ongdayof restraintanddis-

reveningwalkweareat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





M S PA I N .

undmyfriend sreading-

oungofficer,anotherclergy-

worthyandhighly-gifted

rstitionhavecondemned

wayswelcomedwitha

rapture € ” Icannothelp

hosewhichwe might

satA lgiers,who,having

softheir fetters,could

riotinthedead ofnight,

wildvisions ofliberty,

ithvaguehopesof

y! whatafalsenotion

f thecharactersthat

IdoubtifNatureherse lf

herhandsasto trans-

y benevolentfriends,

omyself,merepro-

ouk now me andIsha ll

reis arevengeofthe

twithtruemildnessand

nlymorealliedtoquick

dsober judgment.The

eldom,ifatall, lookedfor

mstances.Ourchildhood

we wonderhowwe

g keptatanimmeasur-

irsandi nterestofpublic

es,andour vices,like

deeperrootsin the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

t.Iwill notsaythat

inthecharacterofmy

egenerallyobservedit

rthiest.A stomycon-

ytheoneImentionedat

in strictconformity

ar, Ihavebutimper-

ndtheirlivesin giving

tothesuppressedfeelings

fwhich thereligious

are aperennialsource

dto receivethemasof

dhassofarimproved

efollyofthisc onduct.

indulgingthischildish

weshouldbe preparing

tudyofour ancientlaws

tacquaintancewiththe

ofthe Gospel,forany

tioninourchurch and

rablesystemofintel-

eassociatedtheideaof

sm,andthatofChristianity

ution.A ftermyreturn

stinvoluntarilyrelapsing

ind.Withmyfriends,

untry,anyendeavour

chhabits wouldbeper-

encydrivesthemintoa

king,whichleadsonly to


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

whisperedsarcasm.The

onstantlydoto their

someofthe fiercer

tenedwith" themilkof

theirhatredoftheprevail-

doesnote tendtoper-

tconfess, thatw ere Ito

alimpulse,without

ment,thereis notasaint

wouldnottrampleunder

ostindignity.A s

entmyselfwithscoffing

ButI trustthat,ona

shouldact moresoberly

ydifficult,without

hamanwho,though

haslatelyobtained,by

ceamongwhatwecall

thatis, suchasareabovethe

giveyouaninsightintothe in-

panishchurch,thevices

resouryoung menfor

foundationsonwhichthe

ycivilpower,hazardsthe

hersand theirflocks.

omy f riendmydesireof

ryingon thiscorres-

edhis mindontheim-

rustedtoyou,r ecoiling


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

heshewedmeamanuscript

e before,underthetitle:

tedw iththeformationof the

acterofa S panish

k now s, hesa id, " butthat

urpurpose? N otravel-

uruniversitiesandclerical

eysuchalivingpictureof

fayoungmindtrained

oumighteasilyfinda

wments,andclass-books

panisheducationcon-

hepatienceto read

f romit? Ihadintended

noppressedand

oncealedtill some

ermydeath,whenmy

tolearn andlamentthe

eapedonher children.

edagainstdiscovery,

e into . nglishany thing

mesatisfactiontoknow

e perienceare laidbefore

benevolentpeopleof

knowthetruesource of

ewhentheymaybe

.

was,notwhetherI

ript,butwhetherI could

on.Trusting,however^


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ter wouldatoneforthe

urandperseverancehave,

closeit inthisletter.

edastrangertoyou. Iam

ofall intotheback-

or himself.

ctedw iththeformationof the In-

cterofa S panishCler-

ecynica lhabitso fmind

keRousseau,toe pose

oftheworld.Ihave

dodiouspropensitiesto

ur,norhis bewitching

tevergoodqualitiesImay

ercomenosmallreluct-

ty,toenter uponthetask

eworkingsofmymind

sonto believethatIam

sireof beingusefulto

reaturesaremadeto

aformof Christianity

gestclaimstoour attention,

uty , andthee tentof its


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 5

ostciv il izedparto f theearth. The

oussystem,unmi ed

dorspurious,uponmy

yself,havebeenthe

ttention,fromthe very

mentwhenIamwriting

fmye perienceshouldbe,

tandenforcedin S pain,

emiseryintheamiableand

tyinthe unfeelingand

thatit isaninsuperableobstacle

mind,and givesade-

edabsurdity,andtodull-

hatitnecessarilybreedssuchre-

themostpromisingand

as mustcheckand

virtues,candourand

ifa llthis, andmuchmorethat

sintheabstractformof

artintoviewfromthe

reindividual IhopeI

thesillyvanityofattri-

ancetothe domestic

swhichareto fillupthe

who,thoughpossessed1

ecentrankamongthe

Theircharacters,how-

nectedwiththeforma-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

lindulgeanhonestpride

sonofarichIrishmerchant,

nddescendantsapatent

arlyinthe reignofF er-

of mygrandfather,and

ofhishouse,myfather

ucation.Thisgaveapo-

,atthatperiod,wasnot

t ranksofthenobility.

hments,however,was

enceofhis fathersdeath,

fthehousebeing:ma-

veda shockwhichhad

opovertyandwant.

ed; andmyfather, who, by

uation,hadnotbeen

wasnow obligedtoe ert

power.Joining,there-

more wealthymerchant,

sisters,hecontrived,by

erwitha strict,though

descendbelowthe rank

.Undertheseunpro-

marriedmymother,who,

oherhusband sfortune,

of loveandvirtue,which

sing,tilldeathremoved

esofoldage.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 6 1

honourableparentage. S he

senceofmentalcultiva-

day,amongtheS pa-

talents wereofasu-

y,pretty,andsangsweetly.

appiercountry,herpleas-

ofherapprehension,and

ensibilitywhichanimated

uldhavequalifiedher to

tandre nedcircles.

lmyfatWsactions,en-

methingliktsupernatu-

r thegoodofh-ufellow-

ddecisionhewantedin

elf.Withhardlyany

ollecta timewhenour

reliefandconsolationto

y acharacteristicand

ledamongustheMush-

sons, forthirtyyearsofhis

selfnootherrela ation,

sofhis counting-house,

hospita lo f thistow n € ”

wherefour orfivehun-

e,allowedtolaythem-

wornoutby wantand

elfofhiscoat,and having

hesakeof cleanliness,in


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

toafault hew asem-

makingthebedsofthe

his arms,andstooping

hemenialsinattendance

. A ll thishedidofhis

astconne ion,public

shment.Twicehewas

contagiousinfluenceof the

ertedhischarity.But

whenengagedin ad-

edy.F oreigners,castby

wretchedness,werethe

ness.

volencewasnotlesspow-

there tremesensibil ity

usceptibleofpain than

rthanhope € ” and, forsuchcharac-

everasourceofdis-

asm € ” thatbastardof re-

sweedofProtestantism

eunderthe jea louseyeof infall ib le

strue,has,in afew

ofsplendidmadness;

spartakelargelyofthe

uslye haustedbyfears

eundertheauthorityofa

ewBirthharrowupthe

giveit thatfrenzied

ftensettlesintothe all-

softheenthusiast.The


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ll thepassivenessofblind

se hausted,andreason

narymadness.Thena-

sintellectwerestrong

mpaired,theenormous

ligiousfearsin theirmost

t deemreasonthe

ullycompensatesthe

tence,Imighthavewished

nthef irstanddearestob-

.Hadshe becomea

tobeunhappy.Butshe

tellectualenergyequalto

one, w hichw asnotcompat-

hercountry € ” thatof look -

cesswherelurkedthe

nddistressedhermind.

eed,to choosetwo

gtheeffectsof thereli-

s,inboth,werelament-

hemostmischievousit

weseementalsoberness

ntotimidityandi ndeci-

dgoodnessofheart, conf inedto

olence.Intheother, we

ind,turned intothe

heart,whosemainsource

quisitesensibilitytothe

atiateardourin treading

hit wasmadetotake


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

dethunto lif e. â € ” A bo lder

besaid)anda reason

,inthe second,would

mindsmorecautiousof

hefull influenceofascetic

thatmenaretoe pect

isesoflight,andthe lofty

ourreligionholds forth?

btaintheprotectionof

e,athis command,maim-

son,stillaprecipiceyawns

hnonebut thatinsulted

rew etoca llf orhera idon

sanity,andthenspurn

friend,lestshe should

f ourproudandtreach-

veI,fromeducation,habit,

ral e cellence,been

,tillfrequentdisap-

akmychains.Painful,

struggleby whichI

medIam foreverto

dage.Butno poweron

giveup theguidance

arule ofconductand

usted,withoutwanting

ande poundit.

iouscareofmyparents

seedsof Christianvirtue

,asinall theirproceed-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thestepsof thosewhose

ctionof theirchurch.

onveyedtomymind

ch; andifearlyimpres-

d forthefuturecom-

aracter, themusic, andthe

cathedralofS eville,which

ofmentalenjoyment,

soundestfoundationof

thatmoralresponsibility

n,and,consequently,chil-

tallowedtogomuch

ageofconfession.My

dthefirst climacteric,

ofabsolutionforsuch

hoacted astheaccusing

rinmynaughtiness.The

ewrong buttosaythe

contrivanceshave,bya

ejust thereverseoftheir

nwhowastoshrive

gentle,and affectionate

nginauricularconfession

ingsfromtheday when

,inchildishsimplicity,

nforcedto repeatthat

tomylife andliberty,

my heart.

sion, asasubjecto f theologi-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ly,beneaththenotice

oteasilya llow thenameof

oshouldlookupon an

enceof thatreligious

ofinterest.It hasbeenob-

atthemost philanthropic

sinessinthe e pectation

utoff,thanin theassur-

eof Chinawastobeswal-

yan earthquake.Ifever,there-

ettheeye ofthepublic

rages mustpassbefore

pain),Ientreatmyread-

ceaboutevils fromwhich

ree,andto makeadue

whichleadmeinto a

ainlycannote pectto

nwithoutasufficientknow-

lengineswhichare at

ndtheywill,perhaps,find

yhavesomethingtosay

esubjectofconfession.

onuponyoungminds

bletotheirfuturepeace

racticeIowedthe first

mysoul wasinastate

adbeen stronglyim-

ditionsofthe penitential

ehadmade meshudder

ofconcealinganythought


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

fwhich Isuspected,

atworst ofcrimes,and

rofeverlastingtorments.

se,donenomorethan

rulesoftheirchurch.

eededinrousingmy

eotherhand,toofeeble

hfulness,whichmade

strifle, aneffortabove

meatlast,whenI was

owwavering,nowde-

ofsacrilege,Ikneltbe-

wever,inmylist ofsins,

ousof fence € ” Ibe lieve it

ttedona youngbird.

eadedpoint,shameand

dtheaccusationstuck in

guiltofthis silence

ears,gatheringhorrors

ssion,andrisingintoan

ttheageof twelve,Iwas

ment.Inthis miserable

theadvanceofreason,I

ageenoughtounburthen

lconfessionof thepast.

sedthatmine isasingular

orbidfeelingor thena-

F ew,indeed,among

e amined,haveescaped


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

e ; fo r, w hatasil lybash-

often,inafter-life,the

amebywhichfallen

dedvirtue.Thenecessity

tance,is lighterthana

sire ; while,atasubse-

punishmentondelicacy

obluntthemora lsense, bymul-

orse,anddirecting its

aginarycrimes.

arlyequally,thetwo

somethatfa llpeculiarly to

theremotestofa ll € ” at

sitionshalle ist € ” isthe

bythe priest.Thefor-

oustribunalhavebeen

ttheabuseof sacramen-

dbaseandblindenough

direct-instrument.of de-

cy,however,is,Ibe-

pposethedemoralizing

ession.Withoutthe

d,notunfrequently,in

eofwhathebelieveshis

ystothefemalemindthe

itsvirginpurity.He,

interrogateuponsub-

edawkwardevenfor

anditwouldrequiremore

supposethata discre-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

e,leftin thehandsof

besetw ithmorethancommon

€ ” w illgenera llybee ercised

ill nolongerdwell

resent.Menofunpre-

njecturewhatI leave

hopeof convincingsuch

evocablesurrenderof

tolibelmy own.

acircumstancesofmycoun-

ntalfacultieswasanob-

myparents.Therecould

hechoiceofa lineoflife

offourchidren.My

mprov ing; andImighthe lp

ntagetomyselfand two

myfather scounting-

of anoldtrustyclerk,

metic.To beaperfect

evennow,adisgrace

paniards.Butmymo-

greatlysubdued,was

ion,feltan iousthat,

ives,Iwasdoomedtobe

g-house,alittleknow-

guishme fromamere

vateteacherwasaccord-

ithmein theevening,

partofthe dayinmaking

correspondenceofthehouse


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

earsold,andthough,

yfondofreading,myac-

note tendbeyonda

ntâ€ aco llectionof the

tionedintheC atho licA l-

se theMartyrs,for

tomytaste € ” a litt lework

cleofthe V irginfor

€ ” andprizedabovea ll, aS pa-

on sTe lemachus, w hichI

arneditbyheart.I heard,

npleasure,that,inacquir-

shouldhavetoread

myfavouritethePrinceof

er,wasallowedmefor

flearning,I should

ntilepursuits.But my

bent.I hatedthecount-

ooks.Learningandthe

rableideas; andIsoon

tI wouldbenothingbut

edthestrongestpre-

art,whichcoldprudence

iescence.Tohavea

hishandsthe realbody

appinesswhichraises

omanintoaself-complacent


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

herthroughlife.What,

of onewho,tothe

n,joinsthehopeof seeing

ntsofarich andproud

arlingchild The

wofcelibacy,avertsthat

other € ” aw ife , who,

awayherchildfrom

,whoattheageoften or

hegaudydressofan offici-

he importanceheseesothers

onfersuponthemthe

orbyanyotherde lusionofchild-

noftakingorders,

pestheheavychainwhich

nderthe tinselof

y,thoughalsoless

rgold.S uchaboy,

yplungedinto aconvent

,heisdestinedto swell

ergy.

agesandcountries, the

feareinseparably

htest incidentsofchild-

of anapology,affords

stthecraftyand barbarous

hereinunsuspectingin-

ntranceof life,lose

ce,happinessandvirtue.

ntobindherself,forever,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nlyundertheaw ful, though

aven,buttheodiousand

ceofman € ” ranks, in-

usabusesofsuperstition.

ue,doesnotbind the

oftwenty-one; butthis

anamockeryofcommon

ewhopracticallyknow

de. A manhasseldom

rtheaptitudetoe ercise

as notbeentrainedfrom

ndcrueltopretendthat

enor twelveyearshave

ororders,is atfull

ontheChurchwhenhe

enty.Hemay,indeed,

uttodosohemustforget

yhasbeenlaidoutonhis

ldforacadetshipin the

rce,andtooproud fora

d,unmoved,thetears

stingaboutforsubsistence,

affordsno resource,

se struggles,must

siblelawfulness,and

ssession.Wherever

not boundbyvows.Celibacyis

w whichmakestheirmarriageillegal,

cclesiasticalCourts.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

enotapartof theclerical

selvesintheChurch

hese.Butnogreat

emhappyin themselves,

ty.N otsounderthe

clesiasticallaw.F or,

tue which,having

my,andmiseryfor itsmeed,

tscaretothew elfareof

tomyse lf , thetenourandcolourof

momentIe pressedmy

ergyman.Theloveof/

hbetrayedmeintothe v

neverforsakenitsvictim.

othave foundhappi-

nce.S cantyandtruly

oreonwhichmymind

t withitfora wholelifeJ

dsince thenecessityof

athto mentalenjoy-

esopa infully trodden, I

eredit, andonlybewail

mybirthinaC atho lic

uldhererequire anac-

panisheducation,andits

but,sinceIspeakof

teof mycountry,I

alinfluence,that,without

tthefactsr elating


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N -.

ntellect,in aslarge

mits.

olitionofthatorder,had

nceoverthebetter

eyhadnearlymonopolized

anishyouth,atwhich

aryreward andwere

ngdevotionalfeelings

dthe peopleatlarge.It

staccuratedivisionof

allotmentof theirvari-

andidates,who,bya

alpolicy,afteranunusu-

oundbyvows,which,

etlefta discretionary

der wereincessantly

geyeofthe masterof

onof theircharacter

ardedtothe superiors,

ciate,theywereemployed

mmunity,withoutever

ofthe individual,or

rsbya multiplicityof

sin F ranceandItaly,

ation,theJesuits spared

hemselvesmenof

ent.InS pain,their

eir houseswithpopular

etprudentandgentle,

eJansenistparty,of


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 75

cusedthem ofsyste-

ra ldoctrines: butthe

ausibleintheory,was

ctice.If,indeed,ascetic

edof itsconnaturalevil

stemof rrfora lperfectionthathas

owedanddisguised,the

twoprinciples,could

advantageasa ruleof

andsoftheJesuits. The

msoftheJansenists,by

ctersand temperstoan

on,bringquicklytheir

onofe perience.

astswho,venturing

Gospel sayings,inthe

eabsurdityofthat in-

n-daylight.A greater

adetheJesuitsmore

devotionalfeelings.They

prudentlyengagein

ascetic languageis

andthen trainedupa

etheirfounderLoyola,

tosinglecombatwith

butthecrow dofmystic

standuponakind of

eof allcare,oftenpro-

gsoftheadvancedparties

herscame forward,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

kintothe camp,and

rtersbytheirindefa-

grecruits.

JesuitsontheSpanish

avelearned,wasun-

eirkindnessattracted

to theircompany:and,

ftenemployedinmaking

alsocontributedtothe

atslipperyage, bothby

hegentlecheck ofe -

ecrowdedeveryS un-

ts,whocametoconfess

t.Thepracticeof choos-

lytobetheoccasional

heconscience,wasgreatly

Theultimateeffects

dgmentare,indeed,

but,inacountrywhere

constantlyimpellingthe

tremesofreligiousmelan-

kpersonsaresometimes

hefriendlyassistanceof

dtheJesuitsweregenerally

e.Theirconduct was

refined.Theykeptup a

hemiddlingandhigher

eadytohelpand instruct

ngtotheirlevel.S ince

ts,the betterclasses,for


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I .

mpanyof monksand

ia lcapacity w hile the

eseprofessionalsaintsare

etheyre-appear,raised,

mportance,butgrown

e,suffermore fromtheir

bybeingleft without

onof the Jesuits, theirdevo-

ptup,thoughupon a

econgregationsofS aint

F rance), anIta lianof

hoestablishedvoluntary

gymen,livingtogether

thoutmonasticvows,in

stothesupportof piety.

heseassociatedpriestsis

dingtheirzealandtheir

uits,theyare butafaint

nstitution.Y etthese

dtheskill ofLoyola s

entoftheasceticcon-

bythatardentfanatic,is

n name,E x ercisesof

ouldbe impossibletosk etch

heartwithoutnoticing

fulengine,I cannotomit

shmentkeptby thePhi-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

” themostcompleteof itsk ind

isted.

a intIgnatiusareaseriesof

gioussubjects,soartifici-

dbeingat firstthrown

ybegraduallyraisedto

notintoa certaintyof

onsciousnessofpardon.

passedinperfect abstrac-

s.Thepersons who

pline, leavetheirhomes

n thereligioushouse

retobeperformed, andy ield

tionof thepresident.

hirty yearshasbeen

eville,enjoyssuchin-

artofthe town,that,not

ryaccommodationwhich

pious guests,hecan

tantsinaseparatebuilding,

andeveryrequisiteforcom-

hedaysoftheir retire-

esintheyeartheEx ercises

tsetsoffifty persons

nandregularityare

noftheir time.Roused

morning,theyimme-

pelto beginthemedita-

ttheirmealsthey

andnointercourse,even


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

itted,e ceptduringone

ttled gloomofthe

ntreadingandmeditation

theirvaguenessand

ilderthefancy,andthat

uence,whichaffects

tenton thesameobject

s,renderthis housea

s,withinwhosedark

tinguishedforever.

tbethehand that,pos-

ail tosubduethestoutest

aparticleofsuperstitious

isoneof thosemenw ho

rgeportionoftheirfel-

eusual means,orsome

hee pulsionofthe

shipin thatorder,de-

nwhichhisearlyviews

acourseof theo logica lstu-

ecamea memberofthe

edthenoticeof thewhole

active andboldmind

mfoundinthesameindi-

olute,andambitious,the

chmelthimintotears

Mass,havenotin the

daringnessheoriginally

dommi inginsociety,

world.F arfromcompro-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I .

espect,heflattersthe

tualtrain bywell-timed

s,which,beingamere

y,perfectlyconsistent

ntoftheirworldlyrank

he eyesofthemore

dditionalmeritofChris-

ninstanceofthis, Irecol-

uisdel-Pedroso,oneof

town,tofetchup-stairs

oldframeset withjew-

hibited, forthe inspec-

the hourofrecreation

ses. Nomanevershewed

ousnessofHeaven sdele-

erV ega,intheConfessional.

penitentâ€ impressesthe

ofdisguise,andr elieves

hat hehasanticipated

svehemencerivetsthe

w ildlu urianceofsty leen-

lvariety ; e pectationis

redflashesofhis wit

ncoarse,e pressionshe

elsthewholeaudience

im thatairofsuperio-

boundstothefreedom

sprivatechapelthatF ather

randscene ofhistriumphs


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ence.Twiceeveryday,

hek neelsforthespaceof

scongregation.Day-

candle issodisposedina

ngthegloomofthe

engthsculptureof

who,with acounte-

ufferingisblendedwiththe

mstobeon thepointof

” F a t h e r, f o rg i ve t h em ! "

dtodwell,inthe deepest

sentimentswithwhich

shedit,till theDirector,

breaksforthinanim-

ver,addressinghimself

heappears completely

thisheart inthepre-

ceensuesafterafewsen-

uteselapsewithouta

regraduallykindles

sgrowlongerand more

,chokedwithsobsand

orutterance,tillthe stout-

eldtotheimpression,and

ghsand groans.

therecollectionthat

ergosuch anordealat

rit isacustomof thediocese

candidatesfor ordersby


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ntIgnatius andeventhose

with theclergybythe

nsure,arenoteasilyspared

timid,docile,yet ar-

vealreadymentioned,

te thebitternessofre-

mbracedtheoffer of

ch,asI fondlythought,

nce,andkeep mefor

fvirtue.Theshock,

felt,mighthaveunnerved

facultiestoastatelittle

otreceivedfromnature,

onforatoo softandyield-

gwhichwasborna rebel.

eritw asmyheartormy

ghtedfancy,enduedme

eblind zealofmycon-

ngtheseE x ercises,that

aprohibitedbook inthe

ivinity,who,out ofmere

arlystudies; hecom-

riendbeforethe Inquisi-

ayedinto awrong

ire toassimilatemyself

enjoythatinterchange

helu uryoffriendship.

e,thestrongestIknow

could neverholdme,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

aterror hadbound

gsmetothehistoryof

truth, w hichshew editse lfon

myreason,anda conse-

pursuito f itto thee tent

attendedmethrough

intothe dregsofA ris-

thoughdiscountenanced

ment,arestillcollectedina

constante ertionsof

atelyforme,these

wedcollegeatS eville,

nA ristotleandThomas

menwhomtheyr ecruit

eingtheirparents. My

Dominican,andhe marked

school.Mymother,

esuits,wouldfain have

,wherethelastremnant

principalchairs.But

lymonk,that lieresy

the newprofessorsof

syofsuchahorribletendency ,

polytheism.Theevi-

wasgrounded,seemed,

youhadonlyto openthe

ltieri,aN eapolitanfriar,

sophyarestillusedas a

yofS eville,andyou


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

es,thathemakesspace

perishable.F romsuch

ewasevident thenew

settinguparival deity.

tionofa littleLatin,

elementaryinstruction,

eof logicattheDomi-

earningwas greatin-

teadmentemDiviTliomtc

to volume,wereunsa-

d,aftera fewvainef-

on,I endedinnever

et,untrainedasIwas

cessarytomyhappiness.

uldhavemetwithava-

shingmymindwith

ghthaveledmeinto

pursuit.Butin S pain,

agoodbookareso few,

uaintancewithonethat

ngthefortunateevents

onofmine,alady,whose

ortothat commonly

males,possessedasmall

ndF renchbooks. A mong

DonF rayB enitoF ey joo , a

singabovetheintellectual

he beginningofthepre-

eboldnessto attackevery

snotunderthe imme-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I . 85

.Hismindwasendowed

rnessandacuteness and

readingofLatinand

agreatmassof information

ubjects,he displayedit,

pression,inalongseries

ormingawork offourteen

mes.

ultythat Iobtained

nd,whichhad hitherto

rongenoughto under-

.Butthecontentsofhis

showersupon athirsty

of thef irstw ork heread

betrusted ; but,tojudge

at theageoffifteenI

esonmiscellaneoussub-

pulsethey gavetomy

eyjoomustbeawriterwho

hehasever obtained

antrustmyrecollec-

dthespirit ofLord

rwithhisutterc ontemptof

chhasbeenuniversally

st thirdoftheeighteenth

eyjoohadlearnedcaution

ence,andanhabitual

5. S evera lo fhisEssaysw erepublished

, Esq. 1780.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ssopinionswhich,til

wholesomegalesoffree

lowedtorangeunmo-

meclaim totherights

insectshavetotheir

gand popularstyle,

untrymenwithwhatever

ntalphilosophyhadbeen

.He declaredopen

kinds.Miraclesand

vedthe sanctionofthe

apethe scrutinizing

e.S uch,infact,wasthe

kson theall-believing

atnothing butthepa-

I. preventedhisbe ingsi-

toofS panishdiv ines € ” the

ddin slampplacedme

neouspalacedescribedin

couldnothaveproducedthe

romtheintellectualtrea-

nedmyselfthemaster.

esitselfsogradually,that

,derivepleasurefroma

ur.Butmy mind,like

adlivedunconsciousof

ectedleaderhad, byhis

ht.F romastateof

yselfat oncepossessed


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 87

andIcan scarcelycon-

ergingafterdeathintoa

e, shallf ee landtry itsnew . f

ht.Myknowledge,it

ewphysicalandhistori-

a llatonce, learnedtoreason,

surpriseandalarmof

en changedwithina

ho,withoutquestioning

otallowanyoneof their

itscurrentvalue.My

etration,perceivedthe

andthankedHeaven,in

nwasmynativecountry

hew ouldsoonquitthepa leof

however,whichIowed

peedyemancipation

oloftheDominicans.I

tothesecondvolumeof

ophy,andhadfound,to

deniedthe e istenceof

fmy thenfavouritedoctrines € ” and

uidsby suction,tothe

woundedandtorn.N ow,

oohadgivenmetheclear-

thesucking-pump,and

d water.N othing,

contemptofthose

dforthewholesystemof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

es.A reprimandfromthe

c,formyutter inatten-

atlength,themine

stscraps oflearning,

eit,hadlong beenready

atedwithme inprivate,

havesealedupmyl ips.

wholeclass,andmyin-

anindignity.Rising

gesonewtomethat it

oldlydeclaredmydeter-

pervertmy mindwith

aughtin theirschools.

ticsmile,whichwere

incurredmydisappro-

theProfessor € ” nobright

iththetheoryof thesuck ing-

s dhimonthe mighty

thusbeardedby astrip-

fessionalhumilitycould

yfamilyfor notbeing

the lecture-room; as-

myfathershouldbeac-

enceinthecourse of

usticetohis good-na-

ckingthestudents,

keS ancho,withablan-

dmessagecouldreachmy


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

torical skill,engaged

my favour.Inwhat

paintedmy impudence,

:formymother,whose

asthe enemiesofthe

ythe publicreprimand

holematterinto her

of theweek,Iheard,

mewasto beenteredat

ainedtheobject ofmy

ycharacterfor industry,

nksof mynewProfes-

myprogressunder a

a S panishuniversity,

owmeto judgewith

ontentmyselfwithlay-

mbeforethereader.

ersit ieshadcontinuedina

nthcentury,till theyear

Roda,afavouritemi-

hem anamendedplanof

elowthelevelof know-

urope,seemsatleasttore-

humanmindsincethe

entplanforbids the

philosophy,andattempts

ctivesystemof Bacon;

,inthe departmentof

cessiveattendancein


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N " .

philosophy,andmeta-

te foramaster sdegree;

ationsarebothlongand

shuniversitieshaveyetal-

obliges thecandidates

mA ristotle slogicandphy -

discourseupononechap-

gtheirdaily lecturesper-

nal e aminations.

yschools,everyuniversity

rsofdivinity,asmanyof

doml essofmedicine.

edto liveincolleges

blishmentsofthiskind

butbeing,forthemostpart,

berof poorboys,they

demic/ system. Y etsome

a strangecombinationof

cha heightofsplendour

digressintoashortsketch

nofSpanishco llegesinto

mthebranchesof learn-

nded.Grammarand

inthe first divinity,

st.Most oftheColcgios

llsandroyaldecrees,

where,besidesthefellows,

tohear thepubliclec-

degrees.Thusthe uni-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ille)was,tilllately,at-

rectororheadofwhich

ows,was,byvirtueof

versity.This,andthe

njoyingsimilarprivileges,

nwealthandinfluence,

racyofS pain.Though

clusiontoplebeians,thecir-

ecandidatesforfellow-

pritde corpswhichactu-

suchplacesto theno-

reasethe irinfluence, noneof

fS pa inC ouldeverbe in-

owasnotconnectedwith

This,however,wasbut

he publicdisgraceto

rogatoriesrelativeto

posethecandidates.One

stillatS eville,according

othebirth-placeofthe

mber,aswell astothose

dgrandmothers € ” e cept

igner,acircumstance

y,thoughnottheinquiry

amineuponoath, f romf if teento

ce.These,eitherfrom

ecurrentreportof the

ancestorin question

t,ashopkeeperorpetty

c hadneitherhimself , nor^ny


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

hedbythe Inquisition,

ws,Moors,A fricans,

he aboriginesofthe

tthat nonebutthe

posethemselvestothis

fthereporter,together

ollege,werehighlyin-

oodofeverymember,no

sionscommonlyresorted

ghtsinthemilitary

fyears, thesi greatcol-

heinfluenceofthe first

thekingdom.It was,

mongsuch ashadob-

todesertthe interestof

rycathedralinS painhas

stbeobtainedbya lite-

thecanonsthemselves

ColegidlMayorhadob-

tosecurea strongparty

hoshouldofferhimself

eraryjousts.Thechap-

a insomeothercollegesw hicharealso

one, e ceptfouratS a lamanca, oneat

ev il le , w erereck onedasaparto f the li-

untry.N onebutthesehadthe privi-

nterestsandconcernstoa committee

thenation,e presslynamedforthat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

re generallyinclinedto

rtancebytheaccession

oorand unknown

nativeobscurity.N o

rchandlawwasleftun-

:andeventhe distribu-

bodiesmadeoftheir

otonlya llthebesto f f icesandsi-

of them,wereintheir

ecrettothecountryatlarge.

ossessedabilities,were

rarycompetitions.S uch

vantageatthosepublic

urt favour,providedfor

stcathedrals.Theab-

weremadeinquisitors,

heirsecrethalls, could

theirblunders.Medi-

herewerenofellowsof

embersofthemajor

sivelytothelaw,butthey

wshipse ceptforaplace

inthepresentlow ebb

CollegeofS evillewould

hoshouldact asamere

estill attheheightof

erofferedhimselfforone

amanca,andwasdisdain-

fficientproofs ofnoblesse.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

mbinationofcircumstances,

setobeprime ministerof

ththetitle ofMarquis

arysuccesshehadmet

t,however,healthe

edin hisyouth.But,

hisprivatefeelings,he

myto allinfluencewhich

k ingandhisministers.

esuitsandthecolleges,

,Imaysay,painfully,his

yobserved,' thatthe

ntedglasses,onerepre-

aco llegian â € ” andthusa l-

se. Thedestructionto

mwas,atlength, accom-

ain triumphwas,indeed,

ssuccess againstthecolleges,

did,wasthemoregrati-

gs.Themethodhe em-

e lastisnotunworthy

ectsimplicty,andthe

ateandcharacterofthe

patronageofthe

ed,within ashorttime,

sof theSa lamancacolleges,

ionsboth ofthechurch

cieswithyoung menof

collegiateinfluence

under:theoldmembers


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

andsuchasa fewdays

wshipasanobject of

mortifiedatthesight

wnof areformedcol-

evillewasattacked

nforcingtheadmission

,theminister,byan

ofits righttoconfer

ofdoctorsandmasters

eirownrector,and

hools,whichweresub-

ublicin oneofthedesert-

edto theJesuits.S uch

itywhereIreceivedmy

theadvantageswhicha

macademicalstudiesin

tiona lsystemofeducation

stantlyon thewatchto

intheboundarieswhich

erhost ofdivines,has

uldshewaperfectignorance

gion.Thankstothe

handstate,the Catholic

ededinkeepingdown

el.E vensuchbranches

onnectedwithreligion,

icalrod andthespirit

uponhis kneeshisdis-

compelsourprofessors


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

stemasan hypothesis.

holicdivines,noone

s independentofreli-

aranceofChristianity,its

blendedwiththephiloso-

rs.Thescriptures

stheyareinformingthe

ytouch,byincident,upon

htheirmainobject,and

cietyaccordingtothe

averyprimitiveperiod.

sofdivinesuponevery

ge,whicharestillsup-

werinagreatpart of

outrageouslyasinS pa in.

e inquisitors leavetosee

phywaslongcom-

m.Divinesweremade

splansofdiscovery,as well

A mericans. A spectre

tinthe lowestcavitiesof

eshand bloodwatchesthe

its surface.A natomy

closely,whenevershe

ndMedicinehadmanya

avouringtoe pungethe

from thecatalogueof

tonlybelievewhatthe

eldimplicitfaithto the

nsofherdivines.Toac-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





ofRevelation,thatman-

aves,isnotsufficient

Metaphysician-,who

Compoundoftwosub-

aturallyimmortal. It

o therejectionofthe

hatthesubstantialforms

il e ceedinglyconve-

workoftransubstantia-

sshrewdlysuspected,that

ll theotherproperties

obemereaccidents € ” the

nseof onevariously

itm ightbeplausiblyurged

st,the bodyofChrist

ead,notthe breadinto

endlessandtediousto

htheInquisitionhas

sand weighsdownthe

cquiescenceinthe

uscreedoftheRoman

fficientforsafety.A man

theO. S . C . S . R . E .

ancteeRomanceE cclesiee)

henhe tookpeninhand.

slyavoidedinw rit ing; but

eofhisperiodssmacksof

m € ” noneofhissentences

whichisaptto grate

mof ensivas)? Whotheti


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

of knowledge,where

uisit ion? *

gyof thehumanmind,

hitsownpowers,that

ofintellectualtyranny,

topreventS panish

uitto maturity,fails

ngitsactivity.CouldI

tureof aningenuous

htheobstacleswhich

sesto improvement € ” the

icionsof beingpurposely

thesuperstitiousfearsthat

erliberty € ” thehonest

whichit encourages

edpath € ” themaidenjoy

ression € ” therapidly -grow-

dtruth,and consequent

” thef inaldespa irandw ild

findingitsdoomin-

appallingevidence,that

t,thatignorance,bigotry,

idansMadridunsystemedelibertesur

quis e iendmeme& ce llesde lapresse;

arleenmesMeritsnide l autorite , ni

nide lamorale,nidesgensen place,

e l Opera, nidesautresspectacles, ni

quelquechose,jepuistout impriraer

tiondedeu outro iscenseurs. € ” Mar-

e . 3,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 9 9

canenforceits homage

ncewouldbereadw ithmore in-

differenttothenoblest

sIcannot,however,pre-

shall proceedwitha

ow ledgeof logicandnatural

dat theuniversity

divinity; andlikemost

dhavecompletedmy

suspectingthe e ist-

hadit notbeenformy

cellentyoungman,much

,who,byhis ownun-

desomeprogressinthe

classics. TohimI

ewithS panishpoetry,

tcompositionin myown

eledme,buta short

f theCo legioMay r

therse lf- improvedman, w hose

vingenabledhim,atthe

gleamofgoodtasteover

ersityof Osuna,made

ville,thecentreofa small

oughtheinfluenceofhis

assistancehegavethem

Marmol.

rjona,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

sprivatepupilsroseso

academicalfellows,as

hscanty,produceof

sewhich thestateof

universitiesw ithwhich

erveda similarstrug-

eniusandconstitutedig-

ada,thecollegeofS an

a lamanca, abovea ll, and

them; havee hibited

singfromtheundaunted

mbers,whohavingopened

owledge,would,atsome

erateeffortto allure

owtheir steps.The

opelesscontest,have

heprofessorsofmoral

hadconfinedthemto

cquierandHeinnecius;

theproperstudyofman-

deednottoe tendits

escribedbythe igno-

nisters.Withalarm

hile-tasselledheads, and

nthecapis, inS pa in, thepeculiar

masters.IV hite,denotesdivinity:

,civillaw:yellow,medicine and

Thosecapsare wornonlyonpublic

es.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

et enemies,connected

e appearedamongus,

edcautionoftheir

heiroriginandtendency.

renchschool,thevery

strongindicationsofa

the HolyInquisition.

ssimpatiencehaveonly

eintendedtoloosen.

caafterthegreatdefeatof

estrongestthatever

manof f irst- rate literary

whommeritandcourtfavour

iefseatsinthe judicature

ourt capricehad,about

atS alamanca,wasdoing

ce,when,approachingthe

versity,weperceivedthe

ivinitystrolling about,

of theirbody.A runaway

ksof thelashonhis

nkmoreinstinctivelyat

eetingatthecouncil-

theviewofthecowls,

y, w hichpartiallyhidthe

masters.Hehad,it is

escapethe imprison-

anceinamonastery


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

echiefof hisrouted

sstill suspectedand

fhis friends,theflower

keptfor threeorfour

eir personalliberty,

hesecret tribunalto

nterrogatoriesabout

aintance,butneverput

ntof theindictment.

che amples, w ehave, atlast,

gingina desperategame,

ationcan,forthepresent,

single chanceofsuccess.

yhadnotfounditsway to

,atthetimewhenI was

heknowledgeofthe

areacquirementboth

theirhearers.I have

ngofthissketch,that one

ghtedmychildhood

onofTelemachus.A for-

rownintomy handsthe

,andI attemptedtoun-

mparingthemwiththe

eededmyhopes.Without

ry,Icould,in afew

a greatdeal,itistrue, but

wledgeoftheidiomby

nownwordsindifferent

meofR acine stragedies


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

book . ImperfectlyasImust

erandelegantpoet,his

asure,that byrepeated

eto understandF rench

me thatImademy

tourcollege.Myfriend

handItalianina similar

asacquaintedwithone

iencia,orprovincialcourt

t literarycelebrity,

dlibrary,fromwhenceI

chbooks,aswellasItalian ;

dtheanalogyofmyown

edmyselfto readthe

d courageenoughto

myhands. Thee com-

ermebythewordsipso

f icanobjectformy ine -

dwithmynewlyac-

eloquence,I had

ligiousdoubts € ” orrather,

omanCatholiclaw,

nationofsuchdoubtsasgreat

earticleof beliefthey

withterror fromevery

Butmynowintimatefriend

lawhis profession.

l Y r n ei .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





M S P A I N , .

w hichhewasdeeply

keninghisCatholicprin-

fthatschoolofcanonists

dF rance, havinge posed

whichpapalpower bad

veryhumanauthority^

edto aseparationfrom

ee istenceofany

icte communication,

enceinconsequenceof

ponthestrengthofthis

the cDiscourseson

b y t he A b b e F l e ur y € ” a

veagainstmonksand

iracles,andstrictures

sa ints. Eve sheart, I

vlhour

uit, shepluck d, sheate,

econvulsivelythanwine,

book.V aguefearsand

enceformanydays,

ngasound Catholic,

ately takenpriest s-

lymy literarybutm)f

esand his,affection,

stperfectcommandover

ongbeforeIcouldmatch


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 05

pointsunconnected

happiestperiodofmy

fmytime, w iththee -

mydailyattendanceat

nityprofessors,was

rit ics, A ndre , LeBossu,

,andmanyothersof

alyzinglanguageand

theperusalofsuch

eof theF renchmeta-

dillac.

musementofmyselfand

ofmyyouththatformed

mthe oftenmentioned

entreandguide toe a-

dertoresolvetheminto

cethemto theirsimple

lysisandgeneralization

ustomsandhabitso f the

ent-soflife, tillinthe

dinmethedeceitful,

tion,thatallknowledge

principles,and gavemea-

twasnot castinto-a

amusedanddece ivedby the

utendeavouring togive

sswhich,dependsupon

C atho licism, w ithits, ten-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





R OM S PA I N .

es,wasmechanically

dstructureofdevotion,

nmyfancythanmy

nd,however,withan

fi edhopecankeep

butre ligionhadlef tmenohope.

nher side,shehadforced

guewithimmorality.I

that embitteredmy

peaceofmymaturer

les, perhapsthecrimes, certa inly

me theconsequenceof

ountry.Theyare too

lf,toointricatelyentwin-

hers, tobe le fte posed

renceofthemul-

intis connected

pain,hasalready

ndeed,isthelot

ecoilattheapproach

tobindmyself

fession,andasoftenmy

tofamotherin tears!

€ ” itw astheeternalw el-

believedtodependon

ven,thatmade the

herdearestchild.The

or,and,aboveall,the

dinrestoringcheerfulness

ntothe hopeofpreserv-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 07

ghlife.A veryshort

enttoopenmyeyes.

boundme,wasthe bitter-

devotionhadnotlost her

broke loose,morethan

ndwasas oftenreclaim-

whichwasto raisemeto

ment, attendedw iththemost

tions,theeffectof

edwithoutinjuryto

” if l if ecouldbemadea

nfulstartingsproduced

thew orld € ” if theopium

administeredwithouta

urrationalenergiesâ € the

ughtupinthe undisturbed

nes,andraised tobea

wouldbeenviableabove

lief,ifI amtotrust

ersoothourfears orfeed

oftheimagination; and

ssert,thatnogenuine

nearthlysubjects,without

ginativefaculty.Hence

splendidand striking

dbytheRomanchurch.

nedtolaugh atthestrange

aS panishcathedral,be-

reaconventionallanguage


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





OM S P A I N .

eas.Buthethatfrom

omedto kissthehandof

blessingâ € thathas

ttributesofthe Deitywith

” thathasobservedtheawe

€ ” how nonebutanno inted

w hatcloudsof incense, what

ditw hene posedtothe

eartfe ltan iety theglareof

and theuninterrupted

waiting,aremadeto

eelingofaGoddwelling

chamanalonecanconce ivethe

outh,who,forthefirst

notas amereattend-

r-ofthegreatestofmira-

do justicetomyow nfee lings

on,theperformanceof

theintervalwhich

rofenthusiasmandthe

owedit.F orsome

fulceremonyIvolunta-

mtheworld,makingreli-

onthesoleemployment

cisesofS a intIgnatius,

dedthedayofordination,

ppearedto measettled

easure.Whenthecon-

een. : performed € ” w henmy


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

e € ” thesacredvesture , at

s,let droparoundmeby

€ ” thesublimehymntothe

dinsolemnstrains,and the

toinnocence,conferred

atlength, ra isedtothedignityof

od, thebishopaddressed

av iour: ' HenceforthI

havecalledyou

sif , f reedf romthemateria l

edtoahigherrankof

eart, it istrueâ € ” aheart

ofmyparents,on their

efirstkisson mynewly-

titwasdeadto thecharms

endlycrowdthatsur-

urpose,werethoselips

I wouldhavediedto

ustmark the irsuperior

ertmyse lf tocheck e u-

rst mass.Mytearsbe-

ich,withthe eyesof

dlover ofmankindwhom

myhands.Theseare

the il lusionsofanover-heated

yarew hichsomeof the

tthroughlifewithout

w hich, w hilepassingviv idlybe-

entirelywrapup thesoul

ermorenorlessthana man.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

v ilegesofmyof f iceforthe

ures,wasnowmye clu-

ilycelebratedmass,with

doften,andrejectednone

fession.Thebestascetic

omewereconstantlyin

of theF athers but,

resamongmybooks,it

moreforreferencethan

isstateofmentalab-

ncommon,fora time,

seheartshavenotbeen

matureprofligacy.It

ectit insuchasembrace

e,orareled tothechurch

amongthefewthat

veswiththelawsof celibacy,

edtheirminds fromall

ngmynumerousacquaint-

gy,Ihavenevermetwith

talents,whohas not,

omthemost sincerepiety

Wereeveryindividualwho

ltransformationtode-

twasaccomplished,I

outlinewouldprovealike

ncludemynarrativeby

nandprogressof the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ein mymindwithin

ertakingpriest sorders.

ncyandperfectionare

ysincereCatholictohis

of Romehasplayed

ratethough,till lately,

onceproclaimedthe

edfor salvation,and

framerande pounder

r votariesnoalternative

ectingthewholeofher

terests,menseldom

thechainof thought,

kintothe sourcesof

rtheologicalsystemon

hapedits gradualgrowth

theywereperceived,

verymind that,without

efoundations,shallbecon-

,ofthestructure.I

tion,howcouldsuch

nelonadheretothechurch

estantfaith ? The

ous.Because,accord-

plesonthismatter, they

holicsorInfidels.Lay-

m, thatC hrist ianityw as

systemof doctrinesne-

naturallyandcon-

stenceofanauthorized


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

th,otherwisethein-

mprivatejudgmentwould

tion.Thusit isthat

umphantlyconfutedthe

wingthattheycouldnot

keBossuet,mostCatholic

betweendenyingthe

hurchandrejecting

uclidcouldconveystronger

that whichIfoundin

ove,said Itomyself,

e f law inthesystem, andit

et,asina Catholic,

etobereso lved, Im ighthave

kemanyothers,against

glaring falsehoods; for

shstepofholdingmy

eIe amined The

thinthe jurisdictionof

rtaltaintof heresycan-

tby thePope sdelegated

n,hehasdepositedin the

houldIdeliberately

oment,whatamountain

uldbringuponmyhead!

laymeunderthene-

sthene tday,which,to

unabsolvedsin,is sacri-

aroffencewouldbeside


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ticalsentenceof suspen-

rringnecessityof

reI couldremovethese

themeverydaytenfold,

teofthetorturingfireto

dbythesentenceofmy

tpeculiar totimidor

thelegitimateconse-

dcomplicatedsystem,and

adecidedrejectionof

ever,bothoffeeling

makemebreakout

dlongbeensapping

,withoutmybeing

turenoddedto itsruin.

tence, aheav inessthatpa lled

ncerns,hadsucceeded

.Conscientiouslyfaith-

dsecludedfromevery

c almofmyheart,I

performanceofmy

edfromme and,

omremorse,Icouldnot

ofmysoul. A nunmean-

ensomepracticelaidbythe

ergy,contributednot

omenessofmycircum-

yman,whoemployshis

of hisdutytoothers,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

the serviceotthedayin

aperformancew hichneither

mostrapid utterancecan

fless thananhourand

nty.Thise hausting

derpa inofmorta lsin, and

sincomeonw hichany

tted.

efulness? â € ” Didnotthe

its miseries,andits

dmoree a ltedends

ingsystemofper-

ustbetheprobabilityof

heactualcertaintyof

Suppose,however,the

herecompence € ” amI

ngerof eternalperdi-

he viewoftheintermin-

veryoneofwhichmayfinally

tingflames.E verlasting

berevengeorcrueltyin the

eretheharassingthoughtsw ith

ght. Prostrateupon

deliverance; butmy

ed tostrengthenmy

ndsomeof theF rench

ntheyavaila doubting

ffaithbeingindivisible,

tyleadhimto themost

uewithadoubting


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 15

dhastenhis desertion.

tlyunderstoodthenature

ngthefeelingsandima-

creed,hasgivenitthe

dryand tastelessphiloso-

book proppedup

ofmymenta lcrisis, Ihadto

traordinaryoccasion;

onderivedfromF rance,a

sewase pected.Imade

amostsincere desireof

bouredtopersuade

umentsmayhavehad

ot theywerecertainly

ever,inthis state,could

ch Iwassotenaciously

tevercouldurgemeintouttering

rticlesoftheRomanCreed,

vanishlikeasoap-bubble

arnestin mydevotion,

gand demanding.Like

stress,thatChurcheither

erbest lovers,orharasses

omyself , amoment s

al,F reedom,converted

tabhorrence.

aptupinmyusual

t ianity , 3vo ls. 8vo .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

he Guadalquivir,agen-

ennamedbythe govern-

in ourprovincialjudi-

ourseofmyramble.

uta shorttime,andhe,

byan earlydangerfrom

ndlyand communica-

eloquence,andthe

eofhisconversation,had

mind,that hebelonged

fthe universitywhere

edbyan irresistibleim-

uponneutra lground € ”

oachments,e travagant

streamof thoughtIhadthusa l-

eblemoundof myfears,

brokeforthasatorrent

onfinement.Iwaslisten-

dness,andtherewas not

Idid notdisclose.

ppearedtometill that

tranformedthem,atonce,

uldbeimpossibleto

dationthat seizedmethe

ood-naturedconfidant.

n seemedreadyto

ponme andthevery

earedyawningbefore

selapsed,andno evilhad

dmasswithaheartin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

hthat enjoinedit:but

selftoofferitup tomy

he enlightenedGreeks

netheirsacrifices.I was

ressmythankfulnessin

menta ll ibertyw asmorede-

vere perienced; butit

gthirst foreverything

mentalhabits,could

yunbelief.Igavean

yF renchirre ligiousbook s,

ucedsomeS panishbook-

eril.Theintuitiveknow-

hpersecutedprinciples

hemincommon,made

everalmembersofmy

rsedinthephilosophical

ossessed,andmadeno

eA ntichristianworks,

renchpress.Wherethere

nodiscrimination.The

byforcedabstinencemakes

l sortsoffood.I sus-

omefalse,andmany

renchmasters.Butmy

ecalmanddispassionate

subjectdeserves. E x aspe-

yof e ternalsubmission

detestanddespise,my


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ess.ThoughIacknow-

oderation,nonebeing

ally,andin spiteofmy

ea fanaticonmyown

etirement,Ihavefitted

nonebutmyconfiden-

.Thereliemy prohi-

cealment,ina well-con-

se.TheBreviaryalone,

andgilt leaves,iskept

e suspicionsofany


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thas, sincemy last, throw n

into rapturesorjoy.

oyalorder, hadbeen

ears,werelatelygranted

e.Thenewsofthemost

avemoreelatedthe

ns,orrousedtheminto

waslostin makingthe

nthecourseofa few

e hibition,whileevery

e pectationoftheap-

sher inthefavourite

ever, thatS ev il le isac-

tohavecarriedthese

school ofbullmanship,

ments.Bull-fightingis

youngmenof fashion

mplishment andmi-

mphitheatreformsthe

boysofallranksin A nda-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

atesthemostimportant

” thebullâ€ ” isfurnished

d,armedinfront,with

animal,andhaving

wersurface.Bythe last

steadyon thetopofthe

he unmercifullypushes

arenotde terousenough

ifttoescape him.The

pointedwithpins,which

napieceofcork stuck fla t

tlengththebull falls,

ouchofawoodensword.

menhaveasubstitute

muchmoreapproaching

inningofsummer,the

attle € ” genera llymenof

sendaninvitationtothe irneigh-

trialofthe yearlings,in

aretobereservedfor the

stfestivityprevailsat

poraryscaffoldingisraised

argecourt,fortheac-

s.Thegentlemenattend

hortloosejacketsof silk,

esof whicharenot

d withbroadribbonsof

notungracefullyround

profusionofhanging

d,mostlysilver gilt,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

oundthewristsof both

edA lbardones, todistin-

saddle,whichisseldom

boutafootbeforeand be-

.Thestirrupsareiron

s,and affordingacom-

hofthefoot.Both coun-

ridinginthesesaddles,

hat,indefianceofall the

sandtoes projectfrom

whengalloping,therider

ck.A whitebeaver-hat,

t diameter,fastened

,wastilllatelyworn at

sedbythehorsemenat

buttheMontera isnow

todescribethispart

utthe aidofadrawing.

p smitreinverted,and

edtoreceivethehead.

themitre soshortened

ntheskull,theyscarcely

ur nationalcap.Like

d-piece, thef rameismadeof

lyitisblack velvet,orna-

tasselsof thesameco-

ds alance,twelvefeet

ee-edgedsteelpoint.

cha,andit isusedby


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

havetocontendwiththe

rtheamphitheatre.The

dbytwostrongleather

proportiontothe

hesortofwoundwhich

occasion nomorethan

vered.Doublethat

mphitheatre; thoughthe

lordisablethe animal,

painfulpressureofthe

d.S uchhowever,isthe

ttackingthe horses,that

Ihavedescribed,run

dyofthebeastandkill

a rareoccurrence,and

the partoftheman,

oresteel thanthelance

th.

mbledinandroundthe

oldbullsaresinglylet in

be supposed,thatani-

ghtenedat theapproach

hisspear beforetheir

sianbreederse pectbetter

s.A youngbullmust

,bearingthepointof the

e issetapartfor the

hitheatre.S uchasflinch

ythrowndownbythe

ortheyokeonthe spot.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

cludedwitha more

r.A strongbullis

theopenfield,wherehe

thewholebandof horse-

a fleetanimal,andthe

eepupwithhimat the

s,however,toslackin

earsman,couchinghis

yatthelower partof

ches,spurshis horsetohis

gthebull,inflictsa wound,

lypainful,makeshim

dcomedownwith a

kissoviolent thatthe

orsometime.Itis

ve,thatsuchfeatsrequire

orsemanship,andthe

fmind.

amusementsofthis

albull-fighterslearntheir

ttheir eyes,occasionally

everylowestofthe

bytheway,thatour

eprivilegeofbeingour

hers.Theyalonehavea

which,comingthrough

municipalgovernment

ndalusianfamilies)isthe

wholekingdom.Two

roughteveryweektoa


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

matadero)whichstands

es andthesuburbofS an

eighbourhoodwhen

erous; for,notwith-

nditionoftheanimals,

enandcows, acrow dis

,andbythe wavingof

whistlingwhichthey

s,theygenerallysucceed

ordertosingleoutthe

nt.N othingbutthe

theseoccasions.Holding

ngthbeforethebody , soas

the breasttothefeet,

theanimal,shakingtheir

nce,andgenerallycalling

Thebullpausesamoment

nearestobject. Itissaid

einstantof pushingwith

ghis cloakinthefirst

headoftheanimal,

o theleft,justwhenthe

inal impulse,mustrun

g abletoturnupon

nwheelinground,he

mas before.Thissport

andw henpractisedby

edwithdanger.Itis

opulationofS anBer-

hildren,areadeptsinthis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 25

slaughter-house,how-

bull-fightersbypro-

ovethemselves.A

rationpresides,and

amongwhom,notwith-

suchplaces,ladiesdo

Mataderois sowell

-fighting,thatitbearsthe

ege.Manyofour first

nootherschool.F or-

aringaway.Y etwe

ntMiranda,theheadofone

he proudcityofCor-

mphitheatre,andkill a

gentlemanhad

uriteanimals,andac-

his parlour,tothe

company.Thebull,

ood,forgothis acquired

oftheservantsto death;

smaster wascompelled

nfightinpublicwith

eard orread.Butthis

ce,e ceptatthecorona-

eirpresence.S uch

gagein theperilous

cesforthesake ofthe

ableplaceundergovern-

norderof K nighthood.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





R OM S PA I N .

k,attendedbythefirst

ot,anduseshortspears

ejones.

s),asit isemphatically

lpublicand privatebusi-

ernoon,theamphi-

l sortsofpeopleindis-

arymusicenliventhe

reoccupiedby suchas

on thearena,round

theircarriages,while

leasurein movingonthe

combatis totakeplace

its ofthecompany

anticipationtothegay,

he futuresport.

the largestandhand-

eatpartisbuilto f stone;

herest iswood.F rom

ctatorsmaybeaccom-

erise,uncovered,from

feetabovethe arena,and

lery,from whencethe

freefromtheinconve-

elowesttier,however,

entlemen,asaffordinga

flictedon thebull.This

pet.A notherstrong-

ected roundthearena,

enty,betweenitsarea


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ngs,admittingaman

fence,to allowthemen

selypursued bythe

generallyleapover

Butbullsof acer-

behind,andliterally

ntothevacantspace

alrunsabout tilloneof

ghwhichhe iseasily

ssesretireto theirbeds

rommidnightthey

ngto theamphitheatre,

fensivemanner,tobe

€ ” shutting- inof thebulls € ”

hebreakof day,isallow-

ingforseats.Thedevoted

mtheirnativefieldsto a

urhoodofS eville,from

mbere hibiteddailyduring

mphitheatre,ontheap-

inementmaynotbreak

Thisoperationhassome-

itscharacter. A llthe

eenon horsebackwith

ardsTablada,thespot

large.Theherds-

ctimsof thedayintoa

meansof tameo en, ca lled

by ahaulter,carrying,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

rgedeep-soundingbell,

atthehabit offol-

dersfailstodo,the crack-

lingsissuretoperform, w hen

o madness.Thehorse-

s ofthedrovetill they

theyproceedto

mphitheatre.A tthat

ponbothsides, with

lyacrossuprightstakes

at, indeed, againstthefuryofa

heSev il l ianmob, though

remad enoughtotake

emselves.Theintolerable

einvitationofaMember

acorporateassociationofnoble-

eedingand breakingof

wnenjoy thee clusive

aststothepublic € ” induced

to getuponemorning

ystand attheamphi-

privategallery,Icom-

lyingbetweentheriver

ding.

heo en sbells, shoa lso f

wildlyovertheplain, like

.One couldreadin

etweenfearonone side,

other.N owtheyap-

wtheyranto amore


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 12

dupthetrees, while

dy,kepttheirstation on

tofhonour.A sourview

wpassbetweentheriver

ddel Oro,orGolden,

uswithgreat effect.It

Theleadinghorsemen,

lisades,andhavingthe

ereobliged torunfor

er,venturedonthisdes-

eatestforcewasin the

gtothe necksofthe

pacew iththehorses, ap-

eye,doomedtoinevitable

emultitude,the sound

eofthehollowstemof a

shrillandpenetrating

osttoharassandenrage

confusedand rapid

hardlybe enduredwith-

oftenhappens,that

cceedindecoyingabull

as,thistime,fortunate

y lodgedintheToril € ” a

seriesofcompartments

mofsluices, intowhich

dedfromasurrounding

illthe timeofletting

uires thatabullbe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

ediatelyaftertheshutting-

ensuesisperfectlydis-

onlytimeI have

e amphitheatrewasactu-

bothonhorseand foot.

ersdistractedtheanimal:

ed,largemassesran

uldhavemade adread-

tudewhich drewhis

etoneofthe crowd,

ication,whostoodstill

up toagreatheight,and

ouldhavebeengored

ad nottheherdsmen

ers,drawnawaythebeast

tat theseirregular

rueltyof thesport,northe

icheventhemoste pert

rlives,northe debauch

nsuche hibitions,are

ofourfanaticsagainst

ershavesucceeded

on,inshuttingup the

nafriar withacrucifi

r,atthe headofan

d,duringaconsiderable

onjurethepeople,as

tto ventureintothat

erheardf romtheseho ly


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 31

stobservationagainst

high-flyersin devotion

w homwemightcallourMe-

ptclergymen,toattend

etheydenyabsolutionto

he play.

heatreIwastakenby

omwhichthebullswere

stalls.A sitstands only

ir heads,Icouldnot

atsucha closeviewof

osedesperateeffortsto

mpaniedbyrepeatedand

reisanintelligenceand

makeshimlookmuch

wtheDivisa, abunch

steelpoint,stuckinto

ndedto distinguishthe

nationsofcolours,which

about thestreetslike

retheassizes.

tobeginthemorning

hdaysaref i eduponaswill

ce,preventthe attend-

ebendaries,whochoose

apter,in abody,receive

eMaestranza.S uch,

dseats,maystayathome

.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

bellannouncestheele-

aceremonyw hichtak esplace

dailymorningservice.

mphitheatre,whenfull,

eattendin theA n-

chI havealreadydes-

men scloaks,whichare

variesfrompurpleto

ketsof themendisplay

e whiteveilswhichthe

thesemeetings,tellbeau-

rgayattire.

n whichamultitude

nt,ispartoftheshow,

pellationofDespejo.

talionofinfantry.The

thegatesina column,

ound ofmartialmusic,

rethemasthey march

ne,thegates areclosed,

evolutions,inwhichthe

pectedtoshewhisin-

hismenin acon-

andinamoment,and

efence.

ghters),onehalfin

oaks,nowadvancein

to makeobeisanceto

erisgenerallytwelve

woMatadores,eachat-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

edMediaespada(demi-

ollowthe Picadores

wearingscarletjackets

heshapeof thehorse-

besthose inuseamongthe

aprotectiontothe legsand

atheroveralls,stuffedto

ftbrow npaper € ” asub-

ergreatresistancetothe

ak ingthe irbow tothepre-

theirpostin alineto

sto letinthebulls,

thebarrieratthe dis-

esfromeachother.

utanyweaponormeans

cloaks,wait,notfar from

ssistanceto thepikemen.

readiness,aconstable,

ostume,ridesuptothe

y,and receivesintohis

bull sden, w hichthe

alcony.S carcelyhas

ekeyunderthe steward s

ngofthepresident s

oundamidastormof

ngopen,andthe first

theatre.Ishalldescribe

o,ourconnoisseurs

ht,andifyou imagineit

sdangerand carnage,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

gandteninthe evening,

ate notionofthewhole

and lookedwildly

akingnoticeofthe first

atechargeagainsthim.

eceivedatthe pointof

tothe lawsofthe

shypart oftheneck.

o f thebridle -handandrightleg

ebull shorn, by turning

ythewound,hein-

tpikeman,whosehorse,

wassodeeplygoredin

onthespot.The im-

stthrew therideronthe

nawfulsilenceensued.

theirseats,beheldin

ullgoring the:fallen

seonlychanceof safety

ess,seemeddeadtoall

cenelastedbuta few

foot,byrunningtowards

ns,wavingtheir cloaks

nmade himquitthe

nthedanger ofthe

heroseonhis legsto

theburst.ofapplause

theste tremityof the

dbyrevenge,henow


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

bull. But,withoutde-

hatfollowed,I shall

ciousanimalattackedthe

imes,woundedfourhorses

e noblecreatures,

ces,continuedtoface

tillgrowingtoo weak,

.Y etthesehorsesare

butareboughtforthe

llings, when,wornout

sease,theyare unfit

dischargedthehorsemen

e tcombat, andthe

devolvedontheBan-

mew homwehavehithertoseen

e horsemen.The

ag,fromwhichthey

toftwofeetin length,

,andgaily ornamented

dpaper,cut intore-

utacloak,andholding

hand,thefighterruns

gshortwhenhesees

hetwoshafts,without

ornsofthe beastatthe

pstotoss him.The

hebullthrowuphis head

dedblow,andwhilehe

ourstoshakeoffthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

,the manhasfull

heseoccasions,when

thedarts,thattheyre-

nessoffoot.Being

cloak,they areobliged

he bullfollowsthem

eseenthemanleapthe

bythe enragedbrute,

sprungupby placing

sendthoughtitwas

dartsare setwithsquibs

pieceof tinder,made

edtothe barbedpoint

whichmakesitpe-

the trainofthefire-

is refinementof

bull sinstinctivepowers,

etelyfrantic,todiminish

, w ho isneversoe -

collectedenoughto

esident shandkerchie f ,

ath-signal,andtheMa-

llo,theprideof this

hemost gracefuland

pa inhaseverproduced,

pproachedthebull

arlessstep.Inhisleft

ceofredcloth,spread

inlength,andinhis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

muchlonger.Hisat-

distance.F acingthe

yards,hepresentedthe

partiallyconcealedbe-

relyoutofview.The

cloth,andourhero

htcircular motion,

erthe lurewhichthe

rection,tillhehad

gedbythisdeception,and

sensation,thebullcol-

desperatecharge.Pepe

at theleftsideof the

guponhisrightfootasthe

antheweaponnearlyup

ebullstaggered,tot-

uponhisbent legs; but

mforany mantoven-

” Theunfortunate Il lohas

ndinflictedby abullin

robserved,foroneor

pproachingdeathin the

gbeforehim,andat his

tbehindthebull and

a smallponiardatthe

hehead.Thisoperation

eptwhentheprostratebull

hedesireof the

cifulblowin amanner

emonstrationwouldhave


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

heponiard,calledPutv-

editfora fewmoments,

erringa imonthebull s

legs,thathe killedthe

oflightning.

dwithlargemorrice-bells

breast,anddrawinga

nhookin themiddle,

ethe bulliay.This

aropepreviouslythrown

shorns,hewasswiftly

heatre.

oreminute,and,I

tionofeverything con-

thanhas everbeen

wnsend sisthe best

evermetw ith; yetit is

odifficultisit toseedis-

weare notfamiliarlyac-

reat,andtheirde te-

gimminent.Thelives

eof theMatadores andfew

metoavoidatragical end.

dregsofthepeople.

ey unitesuperstition

acter.N oneofthem

awithouta scapulary,

cloth suspendedby

back,betweenthe shirt


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ont squarethereisa

rginMary € ” genera lly , the

trongoddessof allthe

pain.Thesescapularies

e CarmeliteF riars.Our

besidestheusualamulet,

atronageofS t.Joseph,

evilleamphitheatre.

ere,duringIllo slife,

efightcontinued,the

allthat timeencircledby

a -candles,whichthe

athisowne pense.The

fulofthishomage,allowed

ded,andfinallylefthim

avedescribed,thefeel-

rted; yetthatdegreeof

complished.Thedisplay

hichismadeatthesee hi-

snatureofall emotionsin

emorethansufficientto

naturaldisgustarising

dandslaughter.Ifwe

estalsatRomewerepas-

alshows,weshallnotbe

htasteforsportswhich,with

nlife,can giverisetothe

thwhichIshall con-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

tdegreethe passionfor

gentlemanofmyac-

rsagothemisfortuneto

upposed,thatablind

eofhis formerenjoyment

every thingisaddressedtotheeye.

,isaconstantattendantat

gandeveninghetakes

anza,ofwhichheisa

byhisside. Uponthe

hegreedilylistensto the

ndof allthattakesplace

nceptionof thee hibi-

wncries ofthemulti-

naburstofapplause

hint attheeventthat

,the unfortunateman s

,andheechoesthe last


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ictedthistown and

sandofitsinhabitants,

accountformy long

erruptionofmy cor-

merperiodfor whichI

planation.

ehithertobeenaslimited

ntrymen.Thee pense,

nconvenienceattending

ellingforpleasureor

espendtheir whole

andfewamongthe

htofthe townthatgave

r,broughthomesome

ness; and, asmydearf riend,

oseaccountofhimself

800.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

d tovisitaverypecu-

oinedhimmostwillingly

w hichIco llectedafew

ers,witha viewtoadd

sketches.

nwasatow ninthemoun-

,calledOlbera,or Olvera,

nthe pronunciationof

manof thattow nhad

pof thisColegioMayor

emberofthatbody,was

nerforcollectingthe

ch,accordingtothesta-

birth-placeofthecan-

tyofhis bloodand

badnessoftheroads,in

o makethewholejour-

eprovidedwiththe

ygentlemenwearon

ashortloose jacketandsmall-

thick leatherga iters a

pommelofthesaddle

mentedwitha kindof

ecesofvariouscolours,

dressof ourA ndalusian

w ellastheservant, w hose

gage,wasarmedwitha

k,ona ring,whichall

ishedwithforthatpur--

llingis,upon the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nA ndalusia.Robbers

orseback,providedthey

topassanywooded

gtothedistanceof amas-

isopportunitytopay

aintanceatOsuna,a town

thanumerousnoblesse,

university.A ttheend

yw estoppedatapretty

lA rahal. The inn, though

eE nglishsenseofthe

worstweweredoomedto

rtravellerswerenothere

adnotbroughttheirown

aroom withafewbroken

oflockbeds,laidupon

k-floorbyiron tressels.

affordedusanagreeable

dabottleof cheap,but

ine,madeusforgetthe

rney.

achofthatpeculiar

everycornerofaninn,

nddrum,withmoreof

anof themilitarycha-

osity.Buttoaska ques-

panishfonda(hotel),you

ngs,callingthe waiter,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rd,insuccession,tomul-

onedisposedtohear

equietmethodofsearching

eginningatthe kitchen.

ytostepout ofour

veswithinthecook sdo-

nns,indeed,consist

tothestreetor road,and

roundstones.A tone

rge hearth,raisedabout

wood-fireisconstantly

ersof allranksand

rmopingin theircold,

otakea seatnearit,

hewitandhumourof

owns,andacloseview

,dressingsuccessivelyin

nomeletof eggsand

fishwithoilandlove-

mbsofa toughfowl

beforehadbeen strutting

softhe bed-rooms,as

yard,allopenintothe

acefor carriagesand

ontdoortothestables,

arrieros,whotravelin

men anddoublethat

emselvesatnightalong

rgepacksaddle,withno


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





rA I N .

ofhorse-cloth,called

heroad tokeepthem

werewebroughtby

soonlearnedfromone

redaboutit, thata

erswereinashorttime

.Thiswasgoodnews

ngtogo earlytobed

ngallowedtosleep,

achingnight.Theper-

astotakeplacein an

ouse,openinfront,

ationbothforthestage

heactors.Havingeach

pennyanda fraction,

brightstarrysky,muffled

ectlyunmindfulofthe

romthe e tremeairiness-

escreamingfiddle,a

dadeafeningF rench-

Thedrop-curtaincon-

ssewedtogether and

gambrooncurtains,

e,andflappingin the

tsofthedressing-room,

oafforda differentperson

pliedthemselvesbythe

redicador € ” " TheDevil


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

” oneof thenumerousdramatic

nonymouslyduringthe

ndynasty.Thecharacter

ar,andsomuchofthe

dfromits popularityall

lgiveyouanabstract

natedin theDramatis

primergalan(firstgallant),

suitofblackvelvet

” theappropria testage-dress

k andstation € ” appears

duponagriffin,summon-

eusoutofatrap,to ac-

to whichthenewly-

ntF rancise posedthe

ss.Italy(accordingto

runwithmendicant

cca, thesceneof theplay,

sturdyopposition,

tothebuilding ofa

foundationsofwhichwere

fore,determinestoas-

gingthecowledenemies

esendsA smodeustoSpa in

chief engineheputs

ealthyandhard-hearted

Octavia,a paragonof

ellysacrificedby her

ciano, acousinofOctav ia ,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 47

yaffection,availinghim-

noranceoftheirnow-broken

ppearanceatLuccawith

cingthebrideand taking

Guardianofthenew

cis, be ingobligedby therule

friarsbydaily alms

andrindingthe inha-

dtostarvethem outof

cofor help.That

ardianandhis lay-bro-

h e gr a ci o so o f t he p l ay € ” o u t of t h e

ltedby themob.N o-

he friarsbuttoquit the

consideringHorace srule

nceasperfectlyapplicable

ofthings,theN inoDios

chaelthearchangel,come

eadilyconceivethatthe

redispensedwith the

ddressinghimselfto

ptoryorderto assume

cis, andunderthatdisguise

haddevisedagainstOc-

fromthepeopleof Lucca

andnottodepartt i llhehad

ofthe onehewastrying


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ngland,theDevilhis

that Lucifer,though

gagainsttheseverityofhis

iscommissionw ithe em-

selftothe Guardian,

dhavingBrotherA n-

dant,soonchangesthe

btainsabundantsupplies

-plotproceedsinthe

viainthemostimminent

f romF elicianoa letter, in

owedherloveto him,

pieces,fallsinto Lu-

uceshimto planherdeath.

e,hetakesher intothe

hedepthofaforest,a

Lucifer,whofairlyand

reventtheblow,could

slay-companion.

sepuzzlesthee -

llheobserves,thatsince

er gonetoheaven,pur-

was onthepointof

shedeceivedin this

rtheV irginMarydescends

ebodyofOctavia,

cianoarrivingatthismo-

etothe twofriars; and

e posesA nto lintoa lu-

n,wherehis frockis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

shredsasrelics. Lucifer

otheresuscitatedwife,

nlaw,her marriagehas

butshe,distrustingthe

rsonage,immediately

runwillingprotector

reventasecond death,

vicointendstoinflict

fterthissecondrescue

cifermakesa most

udovicotoredeemhis

ranciscans.Hiselo-

gnoimpressionuponthe

esthewordfrom behind

temanis swallowedup

makeshis appearance;

emonstanceofLucifer,

esentcase,heallows

wl,andcarry onhos-

iscansbytheusualarts

erreligiousorders,i.e.

v irtuebyanymeanse cept

eF ranciscansmustnever

venlypromisemadeto

med,atleastoncea

theatre w hentheF ran-

orcingthe standingrule,

tionofthemonkishdress

endtherequisite suitsto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

istheimpressionitleaves

torder.

nmentwasjustcon-

church-belltoll what

n h na s € ” t h e S o u ls . A m a n,

ha paintedglass,re-

sonsenvelopedinflames,

ingeveryoneofthe

€ ” TheHolyS ouls, Bro-

o lySouls. F ew refusedthe

orthaboutthe eighth

omisuniversalinS pain.

loymentistobe agentfor

theevening € ” theonly

ferersarebeggedfor

andforsomesa intorMadonna,

estreetsafter sunset,

scribed,andneverfails

etravellers,whoge-

fromrobbersto the

ytomakesomepe-

ntforpastfavours,orto

uturedangers.The

believingS paniardsforthe

reliance theyplaceon

,wouldalmostbeaf-

einthemostsuperstitious

svery easily,nay,

suchasbelievein the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

andsuffering.Thebest

esides,mostready to

visingmeansto keepup

isibleworld,which

ormustsoonpossess,

raffectionsinthis. Grief

half itsbitternesswitha

ievethatnot adayshall

effectualproofsofat-

hejointheconsciousob-

leotherarticles of

fined andabstractfor

enevolentmindseagerly

toryfire.A parentora

nanotherworld,yet

ainsthatmaybe relieved,

utanendto bysome

ionsperfectlyadapted

gs.E veryyearbrings

he churchtotherelief

holyvestmentsused

,bya specialgrant,

erformthat morning,

yellowwa areplaced

churches ; andeventhe

bleplacesofreposeap-

nalsand paupers,are

f revivedsorrows.

ematthee penseof the

ytownofS painforthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N * .

s,who,for wantof

nginthe purifyingnames

,witha priestattheir

esforninesuccessive

undertheguidanceof

sintoabsurdity.Itdoes

but,rushingheadlong

smileuponthefaceof

ompelsourmirthwhere

w.The religiousin-

sgoneso farastopub-

yforthebenefitofsuch

scapetheirnotice. It

o fpaperf i edinaf rame,

thit.Underdifferent

etoninety,theinventor

tributedthemostin-

ccur inthedebtorsside

,allottingtoeachaprayer,

bo aredeposited

guishedbynumbers

yclasses.A ccordingas

etickets,he performs

o inedinthescheme € ”

rslightpenance € ” trans-

to thefortunatesouls

s.Oftenin mychild-

lfatthis good-natured

sgrowingfastidious;


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 53

urgatoryis asfairly

ofRome,as thepapal

feringsouls,whichare

ablank forinsertingthe

osebehalfitispurchased;

llnot allowthelibera-

comeamatterofchance,

slately beenprohibited.

evariousmeansofassist-

for,besidesmasses,

ces,thePopehasesta-

ntheyear,onwhich

grantisconfinedtoSpa in)

taltars,andthere pray-

fheresy , isentit ledtosend

mwritto anyofhisfriends

heperson whose

d,forfearof mistakes,

rs.But,lest theorder

lreadyfree, orperhaps

no Popehaseverven-

earetaughttoendorse

rnames,addressingit

nd disconsolate.

announcedtothe

placedoverthebason

sneareverychurch-

ters withoutwettinghis

fluid,thereis nofear

uldpassunheededby


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nonthe tabletare

ysesacaA mnio- l ite -

aw ingday . Wemust,

ninterruptedjourney.

nthesecondday after

thedeclivityofoneof

andas out-poststothe

nfronta largeill-culti-

heprincipalchurch,

e universityofthat

to greatadvantage.The

nearlysurroundedby

alconiesaboveit, andis

argetheatre.S uch

everylargetownof

ebeenintendedforthee hi-

akindof bull-fights,less

seof theamphitheatre,

ocijos (rejoicings.)

eenthenoblesseand

gheredrawnwith the

annotbeamore disagree-

byeducation,abovethe

misfortuneofa plebeian

ablelabourerwithout

ousdignityof mindnot

panishpeasantry,may,in

jectofenvytomanyof

atthemwitha less

nis usedinE nglandto-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

dents.A rabaddn(chief

(steward),isalwaysin-

eakingon businesswith

firstdistinctionwill

peasant,whenriding

heywille cludef rom

eawell-educatedman,

nolegaltitle toaDon

e thirdorder,sup-

rsand twoofnuns.

cewho,beingaclergyman,

a spiritualdirector,

heladiesatthenun-

cameacquaintedwith

acters € ” aw orkerofmira-

monjadesesperada).The

,whosecountenance

symptomsofmental

mallI wasabletolearn,

seitherwiththede-

mpersuasionofher

metimestheobject,some-

pernaturaloperations,

ctbordering uponawe.

tetheallegedinstances

nd searchingthere-

slikethese areindeed

ed:butI shallbriefly

wstoriesofthis kind


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

emostrespectable

of evidencewhichin-

involuntaryerror,and

etodeliberatefalse-

calzas(unshodnuns)

hrowninto greatconster-

ress € ” fortothato f f ice

esubjecto fmystory € ”

gether,toabsoluteabsti-

Thoughprostrate,and

otion,shewas infull

ndfaculties.Dr. Carnero,

heseparts forskilland

tendedthepatient,for

edbythe nunsthat

thedisease,itisbut

mptswerevisibletogive

amongstrangers.The

atfirst considered

ction,wishedtotrythe

thepatientunder

ceand authority; for

isne tininf luenceto

eforesentforaglass of

endantstobolsterup the

ure,heputitinto her

junctiontodo her

stingnunput the

ped.Thephysician


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

whento hisgreatamaze-

sof theglassreducedto

Wehadtheaccountof this

nwhointroducedusto

anentertainno doubt:

d,wasequallyconfident

entmademeac-

ost pitiableobjectsever

€ ” are luctantnun. Of

uchmiserablebeingsone

senseofdecorum, and

elief,keepthebitter re-

edfemalea profound

essor.Inthepresent

menceofthesufferer sfeel-

worldthestateof her

agood-lookingwoman,

butthecontrastbe-

s,andanindescribable

spiteof allcaution,

ndmotion,raiseda

tandpity , thatmadeusun-

olevisit.Wehad,never-

tomaryrefreshmentsof

colatewereservedfrom

tdividedus fromthe

.Thisis doneby

odenframewhichfills

theframeturnsupon

natelyitsconcaveandits


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

hmentsbeingplacedwith-

mpulseofthehand places

sitors. Thismachine

omits rotatorymotion.

entsforafutureletter.

pleasantlyspentatOsuna,

heroadsthroughall

radeRonda,thoughoften

enerallye ecrable . A mis-

ried uswithintwomiles

henwe wereovertaken

ail andthunder.Rain

forcedus togiveupall

ationthat evening.We,

evillage,an ioustodry

rfectlywetthrough;

n, thatithadnot aroom

ndress.Inthisawkward

rgyman,thoughtof ap-

onl earninghisname,

hishouse.Thedressof

omemanofabout forty,

t asfondofhis gunand

hadalittleof the

ndalusia,butitwassoftened

leman-likeair,whichwe

edSpanishv icar. Thefact

oor,nonebutthesons of

ve,tillverylately,entered

roundedhopesofobtain-

gthedignifiedclergy.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 15

ttherealvicars are

eofaparish, and, underthe

receivethetithes,and

etheyplease.Theno-

stothe bishops; someof

f theS panishprelacy,

se theirincome,and

ngmen,who,notlong

theoffice,totakea

esuperiority,however,

ost,arosefromhisbeing

of curaybeneficiado,or

as issometimesthecase,

ablefromthecuracy.He

ursin wealthandconse-

offield sportsandfreedom,

where hehadbeenborn,

naS panishcathedral.

mostfrequented,

sew as, asusual, thek itchen

ce.A well-looking

rty,withaverypretty

easant-girltodo the

medthecanonical

ysonofS t.Peter.

whichtheseladies

wsofhospitalitywould

rthemasmereservants,

uldhavehurtthefeelings

ore,withbecoming


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

sintotheirgoodgraces,

nsupperwasserved

eir occustomedplaces,

ce,theynowseemed

ealcalde,the escribano

urof themoresubstantial

rnightly tertulia.A s

alsqueamishnessinmy

adnohesitationtoac-

edcustomof thehouse,

il lbed- time andw e

nglazedearthenjar,

avouredwithanise,

hevicar,anda glassbe-

Theinhabitantsof the

dofspirits, andmanye -

temiousnessofthe

ongthem.Butwedidnot

rparty.Probablythe in-

andthepresenceof stran-

ctestrulesofdecorum.

k ingacupofchoco late , and

host,wetookhorse

age,wepassedone of

le , w hicharefoundin

ummer,thebeautyof

Wild flowersofall

kles,cystus,&c. growin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

dornamentascenedoubly

dewhich succeedstothe

plains,under aburning

ntalcrosses,erectedon

erhasfallen bythehands

eastothe mind,and

ryturn,andscouring

wingittoreposeon the

llsides S pa inw ouldaf -

omantictour.Wild boars,

s,are foundintheseforests.

tes,vultures,storks,

ceedinglynumerousin

Game,especiallyrabbits,

ountains,thatmanypeople

houghthenumberofdogsand

sthatofhousesin every

plaintsofannualdepre-

lesofdrearyr ocky

dhardlyanyverdureto

madeep valley,formed

wediscoveredOlbera,on

antherest, andmore

we hadhithertopassed

wofthe townwereso

whatweknewof thein-

pendinga weekonthat

ncomfortableatthat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





OM S PA I N .

gemannersofthe

aralleledinA ndalusia.

antsclaimawildindepen-

or theirtown,thee ist-

eal weaknesswhich

tism.A nA ndalusian

K il lyourmanandf ly to

a lhombreyveteaOlbera. A re -

mpunitywithwhich

ttown occurredtwo

alguacilmayor,a law-

asshotdeadbyanun-

gtohishousefrom an

fendedthechiefof a

veherethe irC apuletsand

neverdiscoveraJuliet

tohaveformerlydispatchedan-

y andnodoubte istedin

ther killedthealguacil,

pectation,however,of

ra lasthebelie f o fhisguilt .

the judicialformsofthe

fthe scrivenersornota-

ostartfullyalter the

chthejudgesground

heterror ofLobillo s

ngeancewasdreadedby

ndhimat thehightof

neof thepersonse amined

rthandfamilyhonoursof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 0. 3

halfmyfriend hadreceived

ge.Lobillois aman

withacountenanceon

markedin indelible

erlife,renownedfor

geriotingwhich tothis

mentoftheyouth ofthis

constantuseofspirits

tateofhabitua linto ica-

thresholdofahouseat

entedwithaglass of

n affronttorefuse.

attheirdrinking-bouts

hronicleofthe town,

atglee byyoungand

sociatedbythefashion-

enessthatoftendege-

barity.Thesportsof

inatedbya supperat

m-housesofthegentry,

to f thecompany , ise -

racticaljokewhenmis-

ests.Thewordculebra,

orputtingoutthelights,

rst thingthatcomesto

snake,whichisthe

rm.Thestomachsof

casions,triedwitharaw

edaresrefuseto eathis

nsuncommonto pro-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nga tooth,orpaying

manwhosepedigree

my f riend, madeitapo int

,everynight witha

herewas nomusicbuta

femalevoices.Twoor

seguidillas,anational

ango,whichwas,not

ebolero,by adancing-

veof theprovinceof

riginallycalled S e-

ancers,rattlingtheir

ndofa singlevoice,

rverses,with aburthen

musicalchordsthat,

ringsof theguitarintohar-

ckwiththenails ofthe

eveeachother, every

othe sametune.The

mpositions,ofwhicha

egantcollectionis pre-

e lowerclasses,islove

ropriatetothe se ofthe

mconsistedof a

mpofcast- iron, hungupbya

ofw oodf i edonathree-

laindeal.S omeofthe

crosseduponthe chinso


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

es.A womaninthisgarb

epracticeof thatdisguise,

ndertheA ustriandy-

fewfemalesinsomeof

seenthematOsuna

df romheadtofootw itha

nbothsides oftheface,

reit thatnothingcould

mingof therighteye

ture.Our olddramatic

san ine haustiblere-

sthelawsof honourpro-

e intrusionsofcuriosity,

allymockedbythevery

source ofitsalarms.

evening-party,to

,willgiveyouan idea

wn.A younggentleman,

sooftheupperranks,a

rts mustunitethatof

hadf romthedayofour

patronage,andengaged

theplace.His only

fish,and beingas

aureste,hewasakind-

rveafriend-the whole

which,accordingtothe

antlycarriedunderthe

arge foldingsofhis

was masterofthece-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eintroducedusto the

eatedourselves,when

” suchw asourpatron sname

wththequestion, w hichof the

o sitby.Thinkingit

ableanswer butIsoon

itw asnotformeto in-

helaudablecustomsof

ainedforhesitationbut

Difficult itwasin-

mthebalancedinfluenceof

eformidablehostof

,which nearlyfilled

akemypostbyone of

sengageto keepupa

ening,wasmore,I con-

wedme.Reversing,

hichattributesincreased

,Ibeggedto beintro-

inacorner,provideda

owasat thatmoment

a paramountclaimto

arcelyspoken,when

ncedwithabold step,

manwiththelibertyof

eclareditwasnot fitfor

,insteadofthestranger.

enedtobea nearrela-

ischairverygood-

dto findthattheairi-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eofshape,whichled me

metoagentlewoman.

w ashighlyamused € ” I

” w ithw hatshechosetoca ll

ngtobeold andugly,

yS panishgallantry.

ssheavilythanI dread-

ayatOlberaw egaveade-

yof whomIhad,thus

fthecortejoprotempore..> -.

aga,whomherhusband,

nducedto resideinhis

stcordiallydetested.

hereasonof herdis-

by asimilarcuriosity,

iry,when Ilearned

ress,shehadavailed

country,whichmakes

ishabillefitforanevening

ceweweresometimes

es,ofwhichthedia-

pot bytheactors.This

monincountry-towns.It

uegos € ” aw ordlitera lly

torsarein thehabitof

consequentlydonotfind

eirpartswithoutmuch

sclothesactthe female

atfar frombeingsur-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

softheladies tojoin

t,thewitandhumourof

eonlywondershow

presentat theper-

nterruptedbythe

friendDon Juan,who

henonavisitto afa-

dies,thoughpos-

ewedevidentsymptoms

urriedoutof theroom,

cause ofthethreatening

ourcoming tothehall,

standingat awindow

ands,sendingfortha

tinghewouldshoot the

hisdoor.The assault,

sgallantlyrepulsed,

camecoolenoughto in-

ces.Twoorthreein-

rty,whoweretaking

hewindowsof their

velatRosa shouse,were

ustsettingfireto the

Thehousemight,in a

mes,but fortheun-

ner,whichso season-

k tothefrontofthe

eat breakofday,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

quittedus,insisted

atthat momenttoone

meofRibera,whohad,

dfromhisfarm.Re-

on Juancrossedthe

topeningw itha latch, in

heldoneofthemost re-

Olberalyinginbed,with a

unceremoniouslydis-

tingthe visitorsinrather

wassoonappeased,on

rangers.Hesatup in

eatumblerofbrandy,

sentgreenjar, thatstood

altable.ThelifeI was

erec ough,andthe

closetomyheadw ould

morethanthebrim-full

reatened.A terrible

ametomyassistance;

myfavour,Iwas

ss.

woRiberasis greatly

selovingbrothershad,

to bedattheircortijo

tthe candil,orlamp,

ndofthehall.The first

t wasincumbenton

avelefteverythingin

fenderwastoolazy toquit


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

tensued.A ftermuch,

peratedisputing,abright

ossedtheyoungerbro-

eed; forstoppingshortin

thegun,which,as usual,

a sureaim,andputan

ditssubject,byshooting

urofthis potentcon-

plaudedatOlbera.I

esamee tinguisheris

dtobythebrothers

ht,infalliblyremindsthe

lamp.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

fter visitingOlbera,

Theyellow-fever,

eforeappearedatCadiz,

rlargesuburbofTriana,

adalquivir.A snomea-

ntcommunicationwith

theinfectionwasbrought

eafaringpeoplethati n-

er.Theprogressofthe

ndconfinedto oneside

an.Meetingsofallthe

dbythechiefmagistrates,

arbitraryinmattersofdaily

n,verytimidanddilatory

mergency.Unconsciousof

peopleflockedtothese

elvesatthee penseofour

slyquarrelsomeand

steachother.A fewof

ngthemventuredto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

nfectious buttheir

amourof alargemajo-

he stupidconfidenceof

seinthemean time

followingthedirectionofthe

ppearedatTriana € ” now

ction € ” beganitsravages

ur town.Itwas

arm,and symptomsof

fauthorities.Theirmea-

ltostrikeyouas perfectly

ftheinfectedfromthe

noarrangementforcon-

k poor.Thegovernor

ucceededinstopping

ould havebeencalledto

his measures,andhis

onturnedinto ademon-

sted. A n ious, therefore ,

estepincircumstances

lauthoritieswiselyre-

iontothe archbishop

nprayerscalled Rogati-

esofpublicaffliction.

withoutdelay,the

tthecathedralfornine

nset.

enttemple,scarcely

candlesonthehigh

fthe lampsintheaisles,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

dplaintivetonesof forty

entialpsalms,impressed

iththe strongestfeel-

ngraftuponfear and

dtheinfectionmaking

partsofthetown,not-

ormanceoftheusual

taboutfor amoreeffec-

upernaturalassistance.

manyof theelderlyinha-

the trueCross,orLig-

stvaluablerelics pos-

S ev il le , shouldbee hi-

alled Giralda forthey

ttheviewofthat mira-

ocustswhichthrea-

ighbouringfields,rose

veyedthemselvesaway,

untry.TheLignum

d,would,inlike man-

e,andputanend tothe

r,withoutanydispa-

had turnedtheireyesto

formerlyingreatrepute,

cted,ononeoftheminor

ars, w ithoutthegatesof the

enbythat crucifi in

asuponrecord. Thisw on-

,stoppedtheinfec-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thepopulationofS eville

thusevidentlysavingthe

te.On thisground,

logy,thehopewasvery

hibitionofthecrucifi

giveinstantreliefto the

sosoundandrational,

nwillingtoshew an

wiselydeterminedto

atlustration.A day

orasolemnprocession

f romtheconventtothe

etowerfor thepurpose

l windswiththeLignum

pter ofthecathedral,

nor,thejudges,the

orporation,repairedto

ugustin,and,havingplaced

eablestagecoveredwitha

edbeforeitwithlighted

ethe singers,ina

thenamesofthesaints

any,innumerable

nvocationintheac-

Orapronobis. A rrivedat

ase posedtopublic

ytery,orspacereserved


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nearthe highaltar.

dedby thechapter,the

rch,and thesingers,

ontowardstheentrance

ameorderascended

edplanes,whichafford

ccesstothe openbelfry

re.Theworshippaid

ueC rossisne tinde-

otheconsecrated

iestinhis robesatone

ofthemajesticsteeple,

wdedtothe neighbour-

all partsofthecity,fell

sstreamingwithtears:

nusualsightwouldhave

uperstitiousonany

nthe presentaffliction,

rdlyrepress.A nacci-

tenedtheimpressiveness

ofthehottestofan A n-

novercastwithelectric

celybegunto make

hegoldenvasewhich

s,whenoneofthe tre-

,soawfulinsoutherncli-

mblingmultitude.A

menonasaproofthat

ard,andlookedupon

entwhich wastodis-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





F R OM S PA I N .

ection.Butthegreatest

of theskytheunap-

whichdoomedthemto

asalreadyattheirlips.

deceived. Thatdoomhad

nceallowedignorance

heirdwellingamongus;

untrymenfearedfrom

onoftheavengingpowers

asthe naturalconse-

themselveshademployed

seconcoursefromall

ably,condensedintoa

finfection.The heat,the

aw holedayspentinthis

ligiousceremony,had

ffect onthepublic

oursafterthe proces-

tbut fewhousesun-

sedina ten-foldpropor-

orthreeweeksthedaily

reehundred.

mybestfriendby the

tionofcircumstances.

obstinateague,Leandro

at o u r pr i va t e cl u b € ” h a d de t er -

ge,attheheadof which

ar.Hisfamily,onthe

meresided atA lcalade

ullysituatedwithintwelve


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

medatthestateof thetow n,

riendto perish,either

glecttowhichthegene-

edaninvalid,Iprevailed

,andattendedhim

wdaysbeforethereli-

vedescribedfromthe

s.Itwasmyintentionto

butthedangerw asnow

havebeen madness

essity.Thusa visit

wasinevitablypro-

ovedetailinthe descrip-

nowncountry,mytime

etImustbeginbyafact

resttomyoldfriend,

towncontainingapopu-

bitants,andstandingon

h-eastofS eville.The

onsumedinthiscity

,wheretheabundantand

ira,facilitatesthe con-

anyoftheinhabitants

omarketbutS eville,

frepairingthither du-

tw ithusasinE ngland,

racticallyknowsthead-

abour,and isatliberty,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

encein thesaleof

ebutchers,the gar-

rehereobligedto sellin

theygenerallyspendthe

omers.Owingtothis

outsi tymen,and

es,leaveA lcalaevery

ndtill theeveningin

nrailings,at thePlaza

municationwiththe

etown,andsolong

sphereofaninfected place,

dpowerfulenoughto

.We,certainly,werein

ppearanceatA lcala.S o

culatetheeffectsof

epeoplethatthus

yone,whopassedthe

thediseaseanddied. A ll

erestofthe village,con-

degreeofhealth,which,

tuation,is e cellentat

ivedfromour city,

rtowhichwe believed

esuchasw ouldcasta

handunfeeling.S uper-

rospecthad notbeen

al,wasbusyamongus,

hweigheddownthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rothers,bothclergy-

ceitedofthejargonthey

mbitiousofpowerunder

thefirstappearance

lcala,wheretheykept

eodiousspecimensof

bred,full-grownSpanish

eranksof theclergy.

e church,wasaselfish

asteforgoodliving,and

fort,hadmadehimcal-

w,byan economyof

mightsecureareason-

t. B utw hateverdegree

rytokeephimfromgross

aidhimselfinthe en-

consciencesand con-

overtyoftheparish

which theyarethrown

owerofthefirstis so

tedandviolent among

oubletothelaity.The

nlyto befoundamong

adignifiedoffice join

whichmakesmencon-

sionedbyHeaventoweed

upbytherootswhat-

edandinfallibleeyes.

at theholypersonage


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ercisedarighttoe -

malesas, byashowy

he abstracted,yetsus-

y.The ladyofajudge

n,turnedbythisproud

ofS eville,inthepre-

mbledforthe ceremonies

usband,whosedis-

ghtruinona morehum-

todevourthis insultin

ed,bythe way,that

panishfemalesabso-

ty,theconductofthis

noe cuseorpalliation.

nga singularinstance,

swouldneverbeableto

nsolentzealof afew

everypartofS pain.

oseofthebetterclasses,

anydressbutsuch

to theeyesofthe

hatproduceit, there

standingcrusadeagainstthe

sts, e ceptsuchashave

tothe enemy,carryon

withthesamevigour,at

of contentionisa

toregulatethedress

he growthofsucharts


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ngerthepeace ofthe

nceofanew fashion,

neverfa ilstosoundthe

ethesermonsIheard

nstsilk shoes € ” forthe

thee travagancetousethem

w earingofw hich, especia lly

ld,wasdeclaredby

a mortalsin.Patience,

ulperseverancewith

dtheweak erse aga inst

,havegraduallyob-

shoes,whiletastehas

nishingtheembroidery.

ryhad latelysetup

byslilysuggestingto

atswere monstrous

fairyfeetandankles

ndalusia.Thepetticoats

halfaninchwasthen

empstress,till atlength

ceof safetyforconse-

cksetwith snares.In

ulpreachersthundered

nordidit availthat

ingtheoccasionworthy

pedthelong-neglected

nprotestagainstthe

dress.Butthecase

ntgaineduponpetticoats


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

pk nots andw henthe

hefinal subjectionof

wtheminto uttercon-

non theorthodo

mitybeenforetold

ishmentoftheincorrigi-

males and,onthefirst

herewasbutlittle doubt

o itsrealcause.Many

eville,andmanyaflounce

handthat,butafew

editsfoldingswitha con-

airinessandlightflutter-

pain,forcesthecambric

gandevening,the

yourruf f sandspencers € ”

vibratesdailyat the

nginfluenceofvanity

epin, inshort, which, onour

blebarometerofdevo-

estpointofdryness,

gtheprogressofthedisease.

beingswept away

s time,perfectlyout-

ngthebakers wivesat

theevilinfluenceof their

ndshortpetticoats.

leceremonytotheviear,

rishchurch,theybegan


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ninedays,knownbythe

itenumberwhich,with

hasbeenappliedtoreli-

olicssince thetimes

gespossesssomemira-

e ne r al l y of t h e V i r g in M a ry € ”

heinhabitants.These

yrudeandancientwork-

ve beenthecasewith

The" GreatDiana

all,ugly,woodenfigure,

thesmokeof thelamp

foreit,dressedup ina

orgoldtissue,andbear-

nguishedfromthe

envirginsbythetitle

€ ” " t h e V i r g in o f t he E a g le ,

ghromanticspot,where

eMoors,ofwhichlarge

ehurchwaserected,pro-

estof A ndalusia,onthe

ring-wellofthemost

inthe precinctsofthe

esresortfor reliefinall

tremepurityofboth

vatedspot,mayindeed

coveryofinvalids,for

lthecredit. .

toaverttheinfection


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

vebeeninefficientwith-

aglepatroness,towhom

ewas,accordingly,

church inasolemn

ssiona iy € ” forsuch

adisplayofeloquence,

rs,assumethat title

gashril l , disagreeablevo ice, and

sedthepeople,to work

citementapproachingto

vedthatdutyonhisbro-

selftothe confessional.

tin thetruemouldof

scan makeapowerful

ssesof S pain.His

nancealmosthandsome,

pleasing.Hehas,in

of anA ndalusianMajo:

ashiningbluish beard

withinaninch ofhis

ggeringgaitwhich,in

hecountry,givessuch as

Perdonavidas € ” Life

wedtheir livestothe

seheroes.Theeffects

tw hatpeoplee pecton

sionaryfeelsbaffledand

tinterruptedby groans,

aleaudiencewillnotgo

rainofspirit about


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

erencenettleshiminto

rns theinsensibilityof

roofoftheirreprobate

s,that,the people

angerbytheoriginal

bilityofthesermon,the

nary isine actpro-

makethese wilddis-

aswellasto suitthecon-

lasses,theyarecom-

set.Ourorator,itis

tionofasoulin hell-flames,

regularlymadefrom

tpicture; butheworked

encebycontrivances

ngtocommonsense.

daday forcollectinga llthe

seven yearsofage,

irgin.Theparents,as

attainedtheageof

declaredtobeunworthy

nsupplication,andthere-

centreof thechurch, which

gof innocentsuppliants.

nedayshadbeen

ommonsenseandre-

ur missionarieswere

dcourse ofthesame

ntill theinfectionhad

eservationofthevillage


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eorless, hade istedfor

eneighbouringtowns,

sattributedbythe

ertions.Theonlygood

bserved,inconsequence

creasedattendanceof

ationattheRosariode

Da w n Ro s ar y € ” o n e of t h e fe w

mswhichreligionhas in-

einourcountrytowns

pulationbeforethebreak

arlyinreadinessto

yinthec orn-fields,

tanceofsi o re ight

dw ellings. Nothingbut

veapermanencytothis

osary,orprocession,

rginMarybeforethedawn,

ngusfromtimeimme-

odvoice,active,sober,

eitherpaid,orvolun-

mbulatethestreets an

ockingatthedoorsof

procession,andinviting

inin theworshipofthe

onis madeinshort

plemelody,andaccom-

ried tinklingofahand-

une.Theeffectofthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 1 87

ftera longwinter-night,

singtome.N oristhe

uentprocessionless so.

whatmonotonous,har-

fthe hour andwith-

umbersof themorning,

deas ofsolitudeand

ndactivityreturning

tsravagesaboutthe

disappearedafewweeks

ndandmyselfprepared

verforgetourmelan-

nthelasteveningof

le istingdangerof

beenabsent,there was

pectofthetown,noless

neroftheinhabitants,

themostthoughtlesson

sceneofrecentmisery

nessreignedin every

faces whichmovedin

vividrepresentationof

seemedto recoilfrom

tances; andthesignsof

rereadytocheckthefirst

achoffriendsthathad

val,wewent,according

alkonthebanksofthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

homadeit theirresort

adnowabsolutelyde-

hewalkwastheburying-

greatmortality,had

arterofthe city.The

nginvaultswithinthe

providedwithanap-

ntoutof thewalls; and

common,nowcontained

dinhabitants,whoin

notlongbefore,been

ertheirgraves.A swe

nds,which,withthe

turf,wereyettheonly

dtheconsecratedfrom

awoneofthe Rosarios,

theV irgin,slowlyad-

ofthepublic walk.

ntedthatplaceforre-

pressionofgriefand

ncedeveryspeciesof

lingthemselvesintwo

nd closedbythepicture

ard, repairedeveryS unday

rial,wheretheysaid

urorfiveof thesepro-

ofmalesorfemales,

eryaswewerereturning.

ichtheyincessantly

dtheLord sPrayer, asthey


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eof lifeandanimation;

fthe dresses,contrasted

the samepersonsused

ot,leftusnowish to

gtheladieswhosepe-

ng,weobservedmany

replainnessofattire,

atevow,clothedthem-

osomeofthereligious

eusedby theF ranciscans

chvowsareindeedvery

rfromillness ; butthe

emaleswhomwefound

f penance,shewedthe

epast affliction.

retheimpressionsof

supportedbythepre-

ewmonthshavesufficed

nsof thepastterror.

ge piredwithmost,

edtheirwontedspirits,

edsoftheirholypatrons.

btainedfromtheir

noftherashengagement,

pa idtowardsthee -

yarise betweenhisCa-

rinf idels € ” aC rusade,

ectsavastyearlysum,

ghostlyprivilegesandin-

ngbuysfromthePopeat a


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

retails themtohis

bepermanent,orof

artofthistown.The

s,which,onthefirstap-

ever,werestopped,more

achersthantheappre-

s; willnotberesumed

erlyentertainedbya

ber,thattheopeningof

dneverfailedtodrawthe

etimesonitschiefsup-

wholetown; hasbeen

theinfluenqeofthelast

ntitself,arbitraryand

,wouldhavetopause

lvethismostreligious

iltof allowingacom-

tswalls.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ctswithmore feel-

hanthatoftheReligious

evilofthisinstitution,

e , issounmi ed, and

ntage,anditsabuse,as

monandcruel,that I

etrainof thought

nd.Butthe time

overstepmyjudgment,

blemishesofsocietywill

mthefaceofthe civilized

elongand desperate;

r theensuinggeneration

etme,however,flatter

bye posingthemis-

istingsystem,Iamcon-

tterhow litt le € ” tow ardsitsf ina l

nalonecan giveme

thhisusualaccuracy,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

fmonasticlif e ; andto

eferyouforinformation

ysubject.Buthisac-

to theestablishmentof

riars.Thedistinction,

andtheMonksisnotvery

heoriginalnameim-

dto liveinperfectsoli-

creased,manyassocia-

members,professingthe

were distinguishedby

amobites.^f- When,at

chdrove thousandsto

edeserts, hadre la ed,

sweregraduallygathered

shmentofconvents,the

gotten,andtheprimitive

evalent.S tillholding

deredA nachorites,even

ssessedoflandsand

monasterieswerefounded

neverwithinthepre-

ghtheserviceoftheir

notintendedforthe

he Monksareseldom

theconfessional.

n fromthebeginning

ndwereinstitutedfor

. fPersonsw holive incommon.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 1 3

actingasau il ia riestothe

emostodious,andS aint

ofmodernsaints, enlisted

nylimitationof number;

the productivepopula-

understooknoconcern

rnumerousfollowers.

r,havingsucceededin

A lbigenses,andsub-

ormorethanthreecentu-

s,enrichedthemselves

tims,andareinthe en-

ealth.TheF ranciscans

ms; and,relyingonthe

rancisinav ision, thathis

lwant,pointtothe

owdailyintotheir con-

clewhichattests thece-

.Withthehistorical

sf inancia lv isionIconfess

nted.ButwhenIcon-

hiefoftheseholybeggars,

sdailymadeby hisfriars,

tythousandayear,I

ttoits genuineness; for

ralbeing,couldpossess

eoftheabsurdityof

erintoadescriptionof

prehendedunderthetwo


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ars.Thedistinguishing

wealth,ease,andindul-

he last, vulgarity , f ilth, andvice .

ngtheMonks,theBe-

fthescalefor learning

whiletheHieronimites

tom.TotheF riarsI

panishproverb € ” " There

gy f lock . TheF ran-

mtheirmultitudeand

y,maybe heldasthe

allthatis mostobjection-

nwhichstillsupports

shaslost,of late,its

thecloister,fromthe

ewmonks,andscarcely

bytakingthecowl,has

taltoil.Boysofthisrank

cesattheageof fifteen,

sprobation,totheper-

poverty,andcelibacy.E n-

withthefirstlaws of

ystandthetest oftime,

deepestfeelingsof

tionofthemindis

nts.Theyearof novi-

hecantandgesturesof

las instrengthening,by

rofessedyoungf riars, theori-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

cioushabitsof thepro-

suchasystemisbuttoo

tamongthefriarsthem-

kingthevows,when

drawsthe cowlover

usesthewordsTotte

Putof f shame. A ndindeed, w ere

eirprofessionas theyare

,theChurchof Rome

nts.S hamelessinbeg-

mealof thelabourer,

everyproductof theearth

elessinconduct,theyspread

mongthelowerclasses,

isfeltfortheir pro-

ageina courseofpro-

posure.Whenan

uctobtrudesitselfupon

erypiouspersonthinksit

ort,andcast aveilon

eswordofjusticeis

onsecratedcriminals.I.

ore thantwocases,

ovethe powerofthis

mentforfriars,in

avenotthemeansto

rmonsdeliveredatS eville


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

butthere isgoodreason

ecannotbe lessthan

er,aclergyman,Iknow,

aywithoutmountingthe

esermonseveryfoiir-

thelasthalfofL ent.

achers,thegreatest

nciscanfriar,calledPadre

asoftclear-toned

onatemanner,andan

age.Being,byhispro-

olutepoverty,andthe

thisvowso farasnotto

rderto touchmoney,it

thattheproduceofthese

thfullydepositedtobe

ole religiouscommunity.

hichlatelycametolight,

spectthatwearenot quite

lmanagementofthese

s,andthatindividualin-

themwitha considerable

gfemalecousinofthe

on,waslivingquitealone

n,whereherrelative

t unfrequentvisits.

therobscureneighbours, sus-

w iththef riar, orhadthe

ence. A n o ldw omanat-

e,andretiredintheeven-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I .

onein thehouse.One

rmedbythe oldservant,

tance,asusual,bymeans

youngwomandeadin

r partsofthehouse

was clear,indeed,

thebody,thatnovio-

yetthepowerfulinterest

andbeforemeasureshad

ole matter,spreadthe

all overthetown,and

hatthehouseitselfbe-

been purchasedbyan

ngfromhis sermons.

aw wouldhavereaped

anylayindividualwho

trainofsuspiciouscir-

y,aproperdouceurout

edtheir pioustenderness

ewassoemboldenedby the

shut theireyesonevery

sullythefair nameofa

hat, a few daysaf terthe.

on,denouncingthecurse

ndividualswhocould

ytohis sacredcharacter.

criptionwereleftun-

e ign, f romaf i edand

theKing notto infl ict


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ponapriest. Town-

urderofa younglady-

anLucardeBarrameda;

painfulnarrative,were

cewithsomeofherrela-

potonwhichshe fell,

eaccuratestatement.

espectablefamilyin the

dforher confessorafriar

Carmelites.Ihave

ereshelived,in frontof

othertookherevery

ytoconfession.The

, hadconceivedapassion

ch,notventuringto dis-

ng theunsuspecting

whichthespiritualrela-

ardsher,andthefriend-

dhim.The young

en,hadanofferofa

acceptedwiththeap-

hedaybeing fi edfor

cordingtocustom,went,

arlyinthe morningto

ivethe sacrament.A fter

onfessor,stungwiththe

observedwhettinga

fortunategirl had,

the host,andwasnow

hevillain,meeting

endingtospeakafew


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 1 0

a liberty tow hichhiso f f ice

bbedhertotheheartinthepre-

ssassindid notendea-

mmittedto prison and

e S panishlaw,wascon-

ng,however,commuted

mentforlife inafortress

ietyevershowedby

ngthesuccessof his

nquiriestoascertain

man; andtheassurance

the objectofhispassion,

yduringtheremainder

resorare,even inthe

hereis stronggroundto

oyedby apervadingcor-

ervantF ranciscans,the

tyinthistown,havenot

gsaintafterthe death,

eyearssince,of thelast

theorder,who,fortime

sourceofhonourand

sidesthe lay -brothers € ”

der religiousvows,but

tyofho lyorders € ” the

s,underthenameof

Latinof themiddleages,)

rsofservilecondition,give

mee pressesit,tothe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

sthesepeoplearenow-a-

eirvoluntaryservitude,none

bytheweaknessoftheir

turaltimidityarisingfrom

e pectedtocontinuefor

ondage.Theywearthe

employedinthemost

ngabletoact,or rather

traordinarysanctity,

collectalmsfortheir

ntsareseendailywith a

fthe deepesthumility,

the childJesus,towhich

nded,andoffering,not

vilegeofpriests,butthe

obekissedbythe pious.

serablebeingsaresome-

edfroma fewparticulars

ebastian(LittleBrother

oneof theF ranciscanco l-

i l ipV . B rotherS ebas-

otfantes,theking ssons,

ssinguponthem.The

ngthathetookmostnotice

DonC arlos, observedto

chieflyduetotheeldest,

ay , nay, ( it isreportedhe

avourite)thisshallbe

meaf terthisinterview , Don


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

mentswhichputan end

madeSovere ignPrinceof

uentlyraisedhimtothe

d, lastly , thefa ilureofdirect

dinandV I. puthim inpos-

pa in. Hisf irstandune -

vereigntyofParmahad

arloswiththeideaof

geoffuturity.Butwhen,after

e foundhimselfonthe-

ghthimselfboundin

rom thePopethe

osis,ofLittleS ebastian.

ever,knowingthead-

cetorules andforms,

ndsforwardtopay the

trials,proceededata

ourCourtofChancery

hevelocityof ameteor.

or thee hibition,before

ardinals,ofallpapers

istinthehand-writingof

,andit wasfoundneces-

minencesanoriginalletter,

bouthis personasan

ndhimselfina mostper-

ctedbetweendutytohis

sof somepersonalmis-

eofthe letter,hee erted

rown throughthe

Rome,thatthetrialmight


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

onofan authenticcopy.

e orable,andnothing

utograph.Theking s

ther hand,findinghim

toenjoy thedailyamuse-

ded,atlength,in bringing

ibitionof the letter, which,

evitabledegreeof

majesty,was,nevertheless,

sfeelings.Themost

panishmessengerswas

uableepistleto Rome,

by thepromiseofalarge

senttothe ambassador

tionassembledonthe

gerhadengagedtoarrive

kilfulanddeep-laidplan

snotdetainedmore than

andanothercourierre-

dtoS pa in. F romthe

orehimselffromthe

storedtohishands,he did

palace.Ihavegiven

thorityoh- amannoless

gh stationhehasfilled,

andtalents.Hehasbeen

esentK ing, C harlesIV . ,

edwiththesecret history

p p en d i .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

mentingfanaticismare

usians.Ofthis order

nA ndalusia,oneonthe

withintwomilesof our

rez, orSherry , asthat

nE ngland,anamewhich

monasteriesarerichin

dconsequentlyaffordthe

chisconsistentwiththeir

heuniversecouldnot

sofsuperstitionasingle

eunhappymanwho

husianvows,maycon-

ellallottedhimas his

dailyeightornine

tany musictorelieve

e.A tmidnightthey

whitherthey retireat

l fourinthemorning.

thembetweenthatservice

sfollows,withashort

tofthe afternoonis

ommunicationispermitted

cepttwodaysinthe week,

ganhourfor conversa-

whennot attending

foodisleftthem ina

sedinthenunneries,

e 1 41 .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

enhungry,and eatitin

booksandasmallgarden,

ofusionofflowers,are the

ortunatebeings.Tothese

oluteabstinencefrom

otaste evenattherisk

nsspent adaywith

ederia, orS tranger sLodge,

ville,whereitisthe duty

nkwhois allowedto

tainanymalevisitorswho,

repairto themonastery.

myvisit toE ngland,

fterseveralvoyagesto

hadretiredf romthew orld,

me unguardedmoments,

owell tohaveentirely

tstothetown,osten-

notentirelyfreefrom

ndinquisitive; andI

vethattheserumours

dedbyhis superiors.He

rdship,anddisappeared

men.

sianruleof lifewould

monthemindofan en-

uldbe surethatthemi-

ary thathopekeptacrown

everywretchedprisoner,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

mof atemporaryillu-

ndliberty,underthe

mbyreligioustyranny.

monks,fi edasstatues

ychurch,northosethat

cessesofthecloisters,

vement,where,wrapt

ntles,theyspendmany

northebent,glidingfigures

arthymoundsunderthe

tery € ” thatleastmelancho ly

monastery , € ” nothing

ngs inthatmansion

lmeetingof arepining

monk,who,tomy

measI waslookingatthe

tersoftheCarthusians

litelyofferedtoshewme

unknowntome,andI

vethatI wasequallyso

collectionof flowers,

onversation,andhe

ndof F renchliterature.

quaintancewiththe

e pressingami edfee l-

stathearingaCarthusian

thepooryoung manwas

t, leadingmetoabook-

savo lumeofV o ltaire s

hespokeofwithrapture.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

fR ousseau sw ork sinthe

tthatthisunfortunateman s

matoryratherthan philo-

snameisunknownto

him theplaceofhis

haveelapsedsincethis

omitsinsulationamidst

sofmylife, Icompareto

tantofthe invisible

et thethrilling

ssofmiseryintowhich

unged,openedsuddenly

,and had,tillthat

tureofenthusiasm.F ed

onvent,Ifirmly be-

tinguishedbutw ithlif e.

stmyformerbeliefwas

dmydeparture,leaving

solitude,theretowaitthe

hichwastodisturbhis

rrorof havingcommitted

owedhimthatnight to

mitsis notconsiderable

outsomeestablishments

escribedbyGibbon.

desis Monserratin

hichyouwillfind in


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

wnobservationon

er,e tendbeyondthe

hich,Ibelieve,rank

tioned.

rena,whichtothe

sA ndalusiafromLa

hinsi milesofthat

thehills thecountry

eautiful.Thesmallrivulets

aidedbythepowerful

mosphere,transformthese

ay,intothe mostsplendid

fthelargest cultivated

vesinthegreatestprofu-

vacantby themountain-

rmwildand romantic

wer-plots.Butasyou

pstotherightand left,

and thescantysoil,

ythesun,becomesunfit

sabarrenhill ofdifficult

precipitous towards

nclosed withinarude

,asmallchurch rising

wentybricktenementsir-

t.Thedimensionsof

troom forafewboards

e ground,which,co-

abed:atrivetto sit

blesupportinga crucifi ,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

twobooksofdevotion.

nnotbe passedwithout

ehabitationisingeniously

verycomfort. A sv isit ing

iddentothe hermits,

istancefromoneanother,

edoorofeach, tocall

cknessordanger.The

erymorningto hearmass

tfromthehandsof a

ofthemare admittedtoor-

retiretotheir cells,

n reading,meditation,

crossesofS panish

aboutthemasa preser-

dmanufacturinginstru-

scourgesand a-sort

sidewith points,called

arthe skinbytheultra-

.F ood,consistingof

ted onceadayto

touseit whenthey

eusuallypeasants,who,

s,aredrivento this

geternalmisery,inthe

dshipsof the irnew pro-

everethanthoseto

y the irlo tinlif e and

rtheirloss ofliberty

dclothingwithoutla-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 20

ecretprideofsuperior

entrespectofthe people.

e citemoredisgust

n,distractedbysuper-

er andmoredelicate

desas toahiding-place

econsequencesareoften

gthehermitsofCordoba,

hreeyearsbefore,had

thearmy,wherehe

nd,what isperhaps

ard,hiscrossofoneof

thood.Hejoinedour

easureinconversation

highfeverofenthu-

esentstateof lifemust

thitself.Westood upon

ngatourfeetthee ten-

alusia,wateredbythe

cityofCordobawithits

ont,andthemountains

majestica lly tothe le f t. The

ryyoungman,truly

ndIcouldnothe lpcongra-

enjoymentofascene

tedthemind,and wraptit

las! (heansweredw ith

-seeniteverydaythese

ermitsareHotboundtothe ir

vows,perhapsthisunfor-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ng andpainfulstruggle,

sofmen,to hidehisface

ngthe reproachofapos-

hebigoted,andthe

thoughtless hispros-

hisworld,anddarkened

hene t. Woetothe

gagetheirservicestore-

nthattheyshall be

uponachangeof views,

r.Theveryfewestab-

resolemnvowsdonot

for ever,arefullofcap-

theinvisible chains

nnot. Thechurchandher

alousofsuchdefections:

isetheveilof thesanctu-

ssibleforsuch astrust

fthismore inmy


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

made,in 1787,the

alesconfinedtothecloister,

twothousand.Thatin

mall andilldistributed,

derinnumerablere-

greatnumberofportion-

tofindasuitablematch,

dignifiedasylum,

eaceandcompetence,if

rfectlynatural,thatthe

fanyinstitutionintended

ddeserveto bereckoned

nity.Butthecruel

ich,aidedbye ter-

withperpetualvows,

malestheBastillesof

avictimlingersthrough

anity.

nterintoa pointof-

inditimpossibleto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ssubjectw ithoute -

nceanddetestationof

whichour Churchlooks

encesof someofits

erowndoctrines,they

ramended,withoutre-

ms.Theauthorityof

attersof churchgovern-

mongCatholics.Y et,

infallibility,evenupon

olentpartisansofthat

verventuredtoplace

ofRomehasbeenso

formherlaws,thatit

shedto abandonitby

dytobind,theheirsof

nthemselvese tremely

eofficeof loosingonearth,

hepurposesofgainoram-

willnever comewhen

greetomakeconcessions

of faith.ButIcannot

ofreasonor interestfor

rvesunalteredthebar-

religious vowsof

t vileanimaljealousy,

fthepleasuresoflove,

inthecauseof chastity

E lizabethfe ltforthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

amountto twenty-

underthee clusive

,whoseruleofreligious

someunderthato f theEpis-

erallyfollowthemonastic

Sa intB ernard, orSa int

kable,thatthesamesupe-

nthe secularabovethe

thenunsunderthe

omeoftheseinhabitlarge

dgardensallowthe

ore erciseandamuse-

lls,thenuns livein

tments,oftenatthe

oungernunswhomthey

s,notunder religious

placethereforinstruc-

esecommunities,is

astic andwereitnot

hdeprivesthe pro-

such establishments

nable.Thedressof

chtheDuenas,or

entheconventswere

onofa largemantle,

dingtothe customof

atthecho ir. F roma

which,ifI mayventure

eyou callamob-cap

rosary,orcbapletof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ttheend,is seenhang-

uldeps,orlooselycoiled

htens thetunicor

pofclothof thebreadth

scapulary,hangsdown

behind,probablywith

line ofthefemaleshape.

asticrulesbeing un-

ritof bigotry,many

edunderthetitleof

ttheleastregardtothe

nganddelicatefemalesare

tionandhardship,asthe

btainingthefavourof

ic ofsackcloth,tied

ottedrope.Therule

for clothingorbedding.

dfrets theirbodies,

the burningsummers

. A mantleof thesamesack -

whichthenunsmaketo

heir feet,shodwith

eithersocksor stockings,

rpwinterblasts, andthe

-floors.A bandof

breadth,iswornby

tightsi oreighttimes

brance,itis said,ofthe

chisthe barbarousspirit

tallowthisbandto be


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ccessof fever.A young

nany ofthereformed

ghtofhernearestrela-

ce,astocommunica-

hers, e tendsonly toa

month,inthe presenceof

indathickcurtainspread

ngrating,whichcom-

.Thereligiousvows,

uchinnuns,putafinal

etweenparentsand

hthecharacterof our

llbe difficulttocon-

uencethemindof a

enthustosacrificeherself

olochs,whomwecall

methesehorrid effects

atural,thatI onlywon-

ourreligiousyoung

vent.Remorseand

youngmenintothe

emoreamiable,though

adourfemalestoasimi-

aughttobelieveself-

abletotheDeity,both

anda tokenofthank-

cter,amongus,isa

dentfee lings € ” vehement

votedness.Whatwon-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





MS P A IN .

sedwiththeloveliness

ateDeity,an e quisitely

anddissatisfiedwitha

roughthepictures of

afterthemosteffectual

allover anunquestion-

Thefirstnascentwishof

watchedandseizedbya

tjealousyofearthly

dentsenseofmeritin

he tenthousandofthe

entstrembleatthe

enGodandtheirdaugh-

dingheartleadherto

gernessintheCatholic

hmaleandfemale,to

hetoils fromwhichthey

e.Withthisviewthey

eremonywhichcutsoff

weetesthopesofnature,

whichmankindhave

nthetriumphoflegitimate

hichcondemnsafemale

thorn, and" l ivea

isstudiouslymadeto

unconsciousvictim,ge-

r,findsherself,for some

ngtheve il, thequeen € ”

communitywhichhas


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

heisconstantlyad-

de, andseesnothingbut

pecteddayofherspi-

a splendiddress,and

f herfamilyandfriends,

r acquaintance visits,

t,severalothernunneries,

ytherecluseinhabitants;

collects inherprogress,

lessings.A ssheap-

monastery,thedignifiep

rmthe ceremony,meets

door, andleadsherto

of bellsandmusicalin-

weedsareblessedby

andhavingembraced

ations,sheis ledbythe

s-maidtothesmalldoorne t

hseparatesthe nuns

church.A curtainis

tsoff thehairofthe

erworldlyornaments.

tainsheappearsinthe

dbythenunsbearing

eredwiththe whiteveil

ntheheadbyaw reathof

m,or someotherhymn

softhefamilyadjourn

room,whereacollation

ervedin thepresenceof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

heprincipal nuns,at-

hichseparatesthe visitors

vent.In themore

ingvisitis omitted,and

hewhiteveil,imme-

rcut off,isthelast

grantedtotheparents.

daywhenshebindsher-

ws,nevertobehold her

veto seeheragain

ensheislaid inthe

ngtheconventduring

tremelyrare.Thece-

toosolemn,andbears

apublicengagement,to

duringthesubsequent

fa girlshrinksfrom

nin theworld,underthe

sandrela eddevotion.

orgettheir artsduring

tim,andshelivesa

eir caresses.N uns,in

n,wouldhavegiventheir

thingoutoftheir prison,

etoknow butIcannot

tanceof anovicequit-

dthatwasaw omanofob-

copinion hadnoin-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . " 2 1

yinthemore liberal

eeveryreasontobe-

hand,I possessindubitable

emiseryw hichisthe lot

les,undersimilarcircum-

yone case,inactual

mcircumstantiallyac-

girloffifteen,poor,

meofthefirst gentryin

hereducationunderan

ofawealthy,andnot

vent,cameout,asthe

d,previoustohertaking

endednoviceatthe

ns,whereIvisiteddaily.

fortnightoutofthe

hehadlearned toabhor

yand rapidlywinning

nd ofthreemonthsshe

versionto theveil.The

stapproachingwhich

remony,withoutherfeel-

eclineit. Herfather,

knewtoo well,could

-treatmentofanun-

nitywasconcernedin

erfor whomshehadno

match.The kindness

towhomthedistressed


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

appinessofherchild-

ostrongacontrastwith

turalmother,notto

trong thoughpainfulbias

swere addedallthe

commonamongthere-

epreparationsforthe

ere,inthemeantime,in-

thegreatestpublicity.

nwhichher confessorsang

over thewilysugges-

edding-dresswasshewn

dduenoticeofthe ap-

endsand relatives.But

e devotedvictimgrew

erselfmoreandmorein-

wantedcouragetoburst

yfriendLeandro,with

arewellacquainted,

tunateMariaF rancisca.

fromtherashstepshe

warmlanguageinwhich

hatsubject,hadmade

rmandsincerefriend.

veofthedaywhenshe

ed tochurch,andsent

entioninghername,that


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

edhisattendanceatthe

surprisehefoundthe

astateborderingon

ftears hadallowedher

t,for wantofanother

whomshecoulddis-

eto him,not,however,

on,butbecauseshe

hpity tohersorrows.

nceaboveheryears,she

errorsof eternalpunish-

mightbetheconsequence

dnotdeterher fromthe

ngtoescapetheinces-

ther.In vaindidmy

ncetoe tricateherfrom

hichsurroundedher:in

ponthearchbishop,and

ooffers,nopersuasions

rtedasif ready tobecon-

thene tday took the

unt,andthetreacher-

ns,supportedthepining

probation.Thescene

nd withtheperpetual

e whichIcannotrecol-

eof suffocation.A so-

hallthesplendourwhich

cededtheawfuloathsof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





R OM S PA I N .

sionof theservice,she

ftheorder.A pen,gailv

flowers,wasputintoher

engagementforlife, on

er. Then,standing

echoir,shebeganto

ngvoice, theactof

God; but,havinguttered

tothe armsofthesur-

tributedtomerefatigue

hadthemeansemployed

/powersofspeech,than,

hosewhoknewnother

oafreshimpulseof holy

thatwereinthe painful

madnessofdespair she

sentences,andsealed

wvotaresswere,how-

byhermore bigotedor

oners; andtimeandde-

ous,she wassoonlooked

disgraceonthewhole

retthat itispossiblefor

derhervows.Thestorm

,(thefiercestandmost

thehumanheart),had

happyyoungwoman

heraunt,theprioress,

hadleftherfriendless,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

entingingenuityofa crowd

hecouldnotescapefor

durehermisery,she re-

wnherself.Theattempt,

A ndnowthemerciless

rstitionappearedinits

outimpeachingwhose

could betakentoprove

sion,wasdead and

ofthe poorprisoner

ngstoapplyto thechurch

titutedforthispurpose

urt,andthec learest

directcompulsionwhich

.Butthewholeorder

deringtheirhonouratstake,

ssubject,andthe judges

untaryandvalid.S he

chingtomadness,and

chains.

ery is, Ihope, oneof

ichseldomtakeplace,and

ecommonsourceof

olicreclusesproceedsfrom

s melancholy,which,

aintsasoriginatein per-

tmoreorlessthegreater


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

chI alludeiscom-

ofE scrupulos,and

n iety . It isthenatural

dwellingon hopescon-

rld,andan iouslyprac-

happylot init,which

ngerforeverpresentto

ationforlifeatthealtar

edhappinessin the

numerousanddifficult

ousprofession,multiply

ryby thechancesof

e; andwhiletheplain

instthemorallaware often.> .-.-

s,thoseofthe professed

aggravationofsacrilege.

Catholicmoralists has

catalogueofsins,by

oeveryoneofwhich the

meshasbeenassigned.

disgusting,hauntsthe

natedevotee,till,re-

tualan iety , shecan

ct,withoutdiscovering

whichinvalidatesallher

herpainfuleffortsafter

dineverlastingmisery.

boldnesstotheresolute

freshsourceofdis-

cklymind.Doubtsin-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

appysufferer,not,how-

epriestingranting

ownfulfilmentofthe

toreceiveabsolutionis

gfears,cherishedandfed

ctstowhicha nunis

urable,andusuallyter-

h,orinsanity.

itutionsandtempers

fa nunneryseemsna-

enofuncommonclever-

estrengthofmindpre-

ationalhappinessare

isters.Butthe true,

such, Imean, as, unincumbered

essed withthatLilipu-

can convertaparlour

rse € ” presentsamostcu-

musingcharacter,the

sistersalloverthe

eorless,a flirtingpe-

ris alwaysthehappy

eheartandsoulof almost

arecentred inthepriest

.Theconventmessen-

wnwithlotsofspiritual

asoothinglinefromthe

otonlyaddressthem

utwillnot endurefrom*

speechin thethird

ustbetutoye, aschildrenareby


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

requentsymptomof

andthoughitis im-

ve e clusivepossession

owthe presenceofa

ent.

tocastanimputation

panishfemaleswhich

ofgross misconduct

ngthenuns.Indeed,the

tecttheirvirtue are

magainstthe conse-

dedintimacywiththeir

dIsuggestthe ideathat

s kindkeepsthem,in

sof modesty.Myonly

bsurdityandunfeeling-

ileit surroundsthe

walls,massivegates,

tsthemthemostin-

thaman € ” of tenayoung

carriedoninw ordsandw rit ing.

heartthusbarbarously

tiesof thereligious

amysterytothemodest

most oftheyoung

r spiritualflirtation

eforethatage,)thegenuine

ngandaffectionupon

universe,which,like

changeswithevery


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 2 27

” Imeanse lf . Ithasbeen

eanlanguagepossessesa

nglishwordcomfort

ofthis country,S panish

producinga similar

someof ournuns,who,

actical studyofthe

richourdictionary

knowsowellwithout

r,poorsouls! arestdl

e chieflyfromthein-

hich,inthe language

makestheirmistressesvery

byastrangeapplication

gusthe nameofirnper-

ss,fastidiousness,and

makethatnamea pro-

ortof affecteddelicacy.

nneriespossessconsider-

anobtainthe patronage

hers,theyarecalledby

accommodatingthemselves

thesociety; everyper-

ectedwithit,acquiresa.

cannotbe mistakenby

er. B utinnonedoesitap-

inthe old-fashioned

ceinlisteningtolong,

ortsofcases themock

nforcetheirprescrip-

theyemploytoraisethe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





RO MS P A I N .

uld,in amorefreecoun-

mostamusingcha-

averystupidpractitioner

gorders,thustounite

ch,for theconvenience

hima dispensationof

chforbidsprieststo

efoundhimselfunrivalledin

y.Theschemesuc-

ctorsenthomefora lad,

broughtup inthistwo-

ofdirect heirs,ofwhich

notboast,islikelytobe

albranchesofthat family.

e system,asitapplies

compenentjudge:the

easttheha lf -spiritua lizedbodies

y treate clusive lyw ithsy rups.

veamelancholyproof

amiableyoungwoman,

toan earlygrave,while

pposedwithnothingbut

tadd,however,thatthe

gtheghostlyconcernsof

toadda certaindoseof

ounceof thesy rup a

toldafriendofmine,

treligiouslyadhered

ns,withthebenevolent

igiousdutiesmore


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

memory, Ihavebeen

tesunderdifferentheads,

thpublic andprivate,

eintheannual circle

yselfpossessedofanumber

thoughaffordingabun-

one ofmyusualdis-

bbornto bendthemselves

shape.A ftercasting

epicturesqueordramatic

,mostcowardly,I con-

ceintheartof author-

essthedetachedcontents

k,whenitoccurredto

esslikelytogratify

nt statethanina more

anscriptofmynotes

e collectionofmy

ore,presentyouwiththe

astiHispalenses,orS e-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ut,however,bindingmyself

hundredandsi ty-five

emsto threaten.Or,

etooambitiousand

egossipandprattleof

youwillcallit (for

doutmy productions

meless)

O S O M A N D A LU I A N

E S T IV A L .

A IN TS E BA S TIA N ' S DA Y .

in,accordingto an

orisessoearlya com-

sthatprecedeLent.

fthatspiritof mirth

eamendsforthede-

uringtheannualgrand

haveseenandheardin

onwholivedatS eville

veof noisymerriment,

n; andcontrivedtopass

eirtime inarouid

markableforjollitythan

ment yetunmi edw ith

m.Ishall giveaspeci-

rank,whosecircum-

favourabletocheerful-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





fA I N .

childhoodwascen-

spinstersofthegoodold

dofbetweenfiftyand

nsingleblessedness, and

y,asampleas their

escanty hadwagedthe

fulwaragainstmelan-

asonedveteransof

urceofdegradation

da prettynumerouscir-

ir youngfamilies,fre-

” oneof theo ld, la rge, and

h,foratriflingrent, may

hichcareandneatness

rethana century,with-

tionof asinglearticle.

ngroundwithtapestry,

entfamilypride,the

,everyeveningafter

ends,especiallythe

w homtheyshow edthe

ess.Theirscantyrevenue

tthecompanywiththe

eptonparticulardays € ” an

tbya well-plannedsystem

roughouttheyear,with

nancientguitar,as

cello,stoodupin acor-

amoment snotice, tostir

peopleintoa dance


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

dllas, ortoaccompany the

feitedinthe gamesthat

entatthisseason.

n E nglandare

hintheirlastasylumsâ € ”

rseries, € ” w erethirtyyears

ntinthiscountry.That

beencommontoa great

edoubtedby anyone

chsuchimportance

e troubleofcomparing

kind whichprevailin

Spa in. Iw ish, indeed, that

ovialandvolatilerace

genera l andthatsome

musementstotheir com-

,withthatspiritof

gementwhicheventheir

eModes,anddancing-

ady,accordingtoatrea-

stributedthesegames

dJeu cfesprit .

mongthethree

Ishall passoverthe

oubtthatromping(so I

egantly,toe pressthe

ateprincipleinmankind,

altosimilarpranks

firsttothethird ofhis

f indthat, justattheage


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

essityofassumingthe

eshould,indifferent

of circumstances,fall

esinorderto desiperein

toindulgehimselfin

omenonwhichIbeg

attentionofphiloso-

chIfindto beused,with

rance,E ngland,and

metwoofthosecountries,

y , orgiv ingthehearttoonebird,

ttoanother,and pluckinga

ttheriskofmistaking

raillery orgallantry,

o fdif ferentbirds. € ” In

beingquestionedbythe

heymeanto givea

oidthewordsyes,no,

nuitydisplayedinthis

hatappearsinsome

enthcentury,where

tsomeparticular vowel

€ ” E x haustinga letter, each

three wordswiththe

er.TheE nglishgame,

cationofthis: inS panish

rdin, theGarden. â€ La

mphitheatre,in

iisastorymadeupof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ayers,eachofwhom

speculiartosometrade. € ”

on Crosspurposes,in

sitos, isagameinw hich

ving whisperedtohis

emostunusual word

re putintheopposite

ich,besidesbeingper-

venword. € Thestoolo f

ellette,(Hispan.)La

hauthorwiselyobserves,a

hepenitenthearshis

mpanythroughthe me-

anguessthe personwho

remarks.

amonggrownpeople

ents,bespeaksagreatwant

mustown, ontheotherhand,

eremnantsofprimitive

ishto thesescenesof

oundin themoreaf-

entday.TheF rench,

,arestill addictedto

atedfamilymeetings.F or

periodisnearlygoneby,

stidiousnesshadasyet

ndsimplemeansofgiving

ts,so commoninthe

more especiallyunder

andcannotendurewith


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

uldbegintodisdainthose

mirthandjoy,springing

freshglowof lifeoverthe

branceseemedtoshake

very teethofTime.

,thespiritofromping

ousvotaries,till itended

lastedthethreedayspre-

y.

orace ofsticking

by theboysinthestreets,

ld ladies,whoarege-

sport.Oneoftheragged

owdsaboutS eville,

per withahookedpin,

hindsomeslow-paced

veil,shetellsthebeads

d; fastensthepaper-tail

rwalkingpetticoat,called

ragamuffins,who,ata

ewatchedthede terityof

ud cryofLdrgalo,

dr o p it € ” w h ic h m ak e s ev e ry

therear,which,they

tor, i l le

t iahat, Sat. II. i i i .

adnesstoderide,

wnyourselfafool,

f ridicule.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





R OM S PA I N .

o into fattack withthemerry

ntinuestillsomefriendly

sport, who,spinningand

es invaintocatch a

aper,-unmindfulofthe

herheadto revolve

onwhichtheominous

d,islimitedto Q uin-

thetwofollowingdays,a

sespass indrinkingand

rethe meanersortof

ciallyinthevicinityof the

Corrales,surrounded

here numbersofthepoor-

misery,anddebauch.

acesareseencrowds

en,singing,dancing,

hotherwithhandfulsof

seen,however,anin-

eswith anyperson

suchbacchanalsproducea

makestheapproachof

ntduringtheCarnival.

quartersofthe town,

arav il las, are inhabitede -

seS aturnaliaareper-

.I onceventuredwith

uffledinourcloaks,to

ngtheCarnival.The


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

men,who,uponthe

maginary,wouldhave

dofwomenequally

areinanyquarrel:for

ncarryaponiard ina

pperpart oftheleft

e garter.Wewere,

haviour,andbyalook of

ts,andkeepingatthe

omthewomen,came

htheleastdispositionto

routofcuriosityor de-

musementsofthevulgar,

videdheisa merespec-

enttothefemales.The

yisstillobservableamong

whilenotasword isdrawn

rrel,theknifeoften

humblelovers.Y et,love

instigatorofmurderamong

ability,especiallyinthe

,withoutanymoreas-

quentsheddingofblood.

nay,themereblowingof

oldno,isinfalliblyat-

lsinA ndalusia.The

ortalwounds,onevery

is,Ibelieve,abouttwoor

well-endowedhospital,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ch,thoughopento all

ngerousaccidents,is

ionofthepeople,almost

Thelargearm-chair

dance-e aminesthe

htin,usuallyupona

le townbythename

€ ” S i l ia d e l os G u ap o s. E v e r y

he generalityandinve-

ensityamongthe

than originalunpub-

1511,by K ingDon

Germanmerchants

rebytheirservants,to

llow edtocarryarmsboth

chprivilegedservantsbe

adthisclausebeeninserted

nhadthrownoffthe

tributeit topolitical

ngitsdate,I mustlook

eteracyandnotorietyof

thementionofwhichhas

n.

sstillinuseamong

ndalusiaare,swinging,play-

theunwary,suchas

powderedtalconthe

esnaoseiauHespanhdesparagozarem


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ulsofsmallsugar-plums

pay withhesprinkling

omasquirt. Thislast

eginstobedisused,and

soonputanend tothem

tothtifrequentersof

eofthethreedaysof

eamongthewealthy.

D A Y .

ometimescarriedon

efirstof thelongfast

mostunpleasanttran-

ashavesetnobounds to

cedingseason.But,as

churchbeginatmidnight,

ove-Tuesdaycease,inthe

welve,justas yourOpera

s,thatitmaynotencroach

importantperiod

stingbegins justwhen

ownstrikes twelve; and

mass,onanydaywhat-

mallestportionofmeat

of thecivilday,I have

ouringtheirsupperagainst

table , andthean ious

hilelarge mouthfuls,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

theiralmostconvulsed

tensuffocation.S uch

oyour well-fedE n-

risanemptyname.N ot

ho,havinghad their

f chocolateatsi , f ee l

substantialsupper before

est,therefore,who,by

sovertakenby" thedead

ight, w ithacraving

mmassata latehour

eelalarmedat hisimpend-

ss,infact,with which

acramentintoafasting

ardlybebelievedin a

knownmanyaprofli-

butoncemetw ithanyw ho

amentalfast.Thein-

strikehorrorintoevery

econvictedperpetratorof

dividingthepowerof

standcommonfood,

capethelastvengeance

tendstothe la ity

ommunicate.

th therulesofthe

hallpersonsabovethe

eboundtoobserveduring

ted. Onemeala lone, f rom

dallits preparations,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

called Lacticinia,aree -

stday.Itis underthis

nglishandIrishCatholics

nt.ButweS paniards

therChurchofRome,

rivileges.TheBullof

ace,dispenseswithour

milk.Besidesthrowing

airy,thesaid Bullunlocks

ts,of whichthePope

are refreshedbothin

ngcostofaboutthree-

ouldhavebeencompelled

urNew foundlandf ish € ”

sehotcountries € ” hadit

hostilitieswhichour

ththePope,devised

eduringthesiege ofGib-

paniardstoeatmeatfour

wasproposedtodiminish

ainderivesfrom the

Wehadaccordinglyan-

tleof F lesh-Bull,atthe

eformer.Thisaddi-

ooconsiderabletobe re-

onofpeace andthe

t,soondiscoveredthat

tutionsrequiresmore

ychips oftheN ew-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N .

proclaimed,every

undof kettle-drums

can enjoytheprivileges

lrescriptswithoutpossessing

ereinthenameof the

e isahouseatSev il lew ith

moste tensivein

e penseofGovernment,

veryyear,bothfor S pain

. Now , ithasbeenw ise ly

f theyearlypublication,

elvemonthshallbe-

unprofitable; ameasure

digioushurryto obtain

welltotheirsouls and

aseand comfortoftheir

onspicuousstation

hepriceofthe copies

ndoubleinS panishA me-

thechiefprofit ofthis

goesofthisholy paper

Governmenttoallour

andoneofthemostse-

rwithE ngland,isthe

seghostlytreasuresto

World,nolessthanthat

y,yetnecessary,dross,

angetotheMother-country.

tatesecrets.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

of anancientcustom

mpatientfeelingswith

omfortsto thefearsof

l lrank s € ” thoseof the

chasbelongtothe

uses € ” appearfantastica lly

nglishchimney-sweep-

ofgilt andcoloured

he CrusadeBullsofthe

e theykeepupanin-

crying,as theysound

serrarlav ie ja ; lapicara

heo ldw oman, theroguish

tmidnight, partiesof thecommon

knockingateverydoor,

ords.Iunderstandthat

ingintwo,thefigureof

antas theemblemof

ver,forthesepeevish

mongtheclass thate -

ewofthepoorerinhabi-

ny meatinthecourse

theydouponavery

dpulse,can illaffordto

mealinthe four-and-

nsofthefastingseason

merousclasswho,unable


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

enseofreligiousduty;

stothe unwelcometask

Many,however,fall

andtaketotheirbreak-

esancticn ofsomegood-

resfastinginjuriousto

ehealthylookswould

cian,compoundbetween

chsby addinganounce

olatewhich,underthe

nesadmitasa venial

s,afast-daysupper,

osegoodsouls thepri-

ngconferences,where,

achwasapt toincrease

ds,theyallowedthem-

daglassof water,asa

quence.Thisrela a-

ookthenameofCollatio,

servesamongus.The

reed,however,onthe

tables,(foranyother

fromthecollation,)which

ingguiltyofa deadly

tendthislibertyasfaras

hiletheProbabilioristcBwill

f ahungrysoul,whoin-

s.Whoshalldecidewhen

ek now nane ce llentman

eseoccasionstill he


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nsof fourounces.But

mattersoseriously,

fulbalanceof theireyes,

whichfourouncesfall

L W E K .

ece,mightIsay,in

fS eville,whenentering

echiefprideofthis town.

earequizzedeveiywhere

lemnities; andit isa

evillians,thatonthear-

mer, itw asmovedinthe

on,torepeatthePassion-

fhisMajesty.It must

urCathedralserviceon

valyieldsnotin impres-

sofmodernworship,

sfear,and wanting,on

edintoProbabilitiesandProba-

whomweretheJesuits,maintain

obabilityastothelawfulnessofan

againstsin.Thesecond,supportedby

senists(a kindofCatholicCalvinists,

)insistonthe necessityofalways

robableside.The F renchproverb

midubien, isperfectlyapplicableto. the

wosystems,asthey areobservedin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

,eitherby sightor

nwordsanadequate

eur.Thedimensions

ondacertainpointin

feffect.A templemay

theworshippersmere

ructure,thoughitmaybe

on,mustgreatlydiminish

esasaimat theimagina-

havebeentoldbya

itedRome,andon

tIgreatlydepend,that

nw eek atS a intPeter s,

reffect onthemindthan

impressiondidnot

y habit,Ishouldac-

essivemagnitudeof the

m.Thepractice,also,

ngand solemncere-

C hapelseemstoshew thatthe

aintPeterunfavour-

ouspomp.Ishalladd,

gtoofarupon asubject

yacquainted,thatthe

encarefulnot todi-

publicworshipbythe

temples.

seemstomehappily

hebuilding.Threehun-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 2 47

ongbytwo hundred

” thebreadthdistributedinto

undredandfour arches,

reareonehundredand

herestninety-si â € ” re-

videdstructureenough

eeyeandpauseofthe

tasaw hole , whiche -

.This,Ibelieve,isthe

shouldproduce.To

esolemnperformances

ntended.Letthehouse

ppearsoampleasnot to

antinapopuloustow n; yet

nasolemnfeast.Let

softenthenoiseofa moving

continuousrustling ;

fthesingers andthe

in deepechoes not

ts.

sionofarchitectural

oducedattheCathedral

fficult toberivalled.The

astoobstructthesight at

heinfluenceofmoderntaste

verthe canonicalvanity

of everyCathedralwith

osureof thechoir,it

ea morestrikingview

presents onHoly


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

respect,andthat amostimport-

tageoverSa intPeter sat

dirreverencewhich,

metimesdisguststheeye

eChurchoftheV atican

peasantsandbeggars, eating,

Christmaseve,withinthe

arenottobeseenatS ev il le .

tthrongeddayandnight

notprofanedbyany

tion.Thestrictestwatch

chapterappointedfor

edbytheirvergers,go

ationof order.The

fseats fromtheChurch,

ntforthepeople,prevents

place; and,besidesal-

epavementtoappear

mallookofanempty

pewsgiveto churches

ervice.

y themelancho ly soundof

sthebeginningofthe

astof Lentisintended

ell isoneofthe largest

uponpivots.It is

ngropes,which,by

cularmotion,twine

massivearmsofacross,

efoot,andtheheadits


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nthendraw back theropes

conceivesasufficient

oppositedirection; and

ringing isrequired.To

priatetothesombrecha-

sbeencastwithseveral

circleroundthetop € ” a

tdiminishingthevibra-

the distinctformationof

vertsthesoundinto a

abouteightyresident

besof blacksilkwith

ededbythe inferiormi-

n,insurplices,whose

heplainor A mbrosian

wind-instrumentsand

emoreartificialstrains of

usic; moveinalong pro-

aisles,eachholding a

atepalm,which,over-

sembledmultitude,nod

egantcurvesat every

thispurpose,anumberof

eirbranchestied upto-

fli ght,themoretender

cateyellowtinge.The

ebranchesissolemnly

gpriest,previouslyto

hichtheyaresentby the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

tie themtotheiron

e,astheybelieve,apro-

cefor thisday,the

beingsupportedby

llthealtarsare covered

s.The holyvestments,

first-mentionedcolour,

nit ischangedforblack .

aviour spassionappointed

ednesday,Thursday,and

nthefollowingmanner.

ng,which inclosesthe

pulpitsofthe samema-

at thedailyhigh-mass,

eepistle,asthe deacon

her.A moveableplat-

dbetweenthepulpitson

hreepriestsor deacons,in

,overwhichthedalmatic

hechasublebythe for-

atedposts,atthe time

said.These officiating

ngthesingersin holy

notheratenor, andthethirda

hauntsthenarrative,

keynote,andmakesa

stothewordsof theinter-

vangelist.Inthose

aviouraresungbythe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 2 51

e counter-tenor,ina

estheinferiorcharacters,

d PontiusPilate.The

multitude,areimi-

cianswithinthechoir.

E S D A Y .

hite veil,whichcon-

ndministers,and the

nnertill thewords

w asrentintw ain are

nttheveil disappears,as

earsof thecongregation

of concealedfire-works,

an earthquake.

dTinieblas(darkness)

sunset.The cathedral,

tsthemostsolemnandim-

ltar,concealedbe-

chfall fromtheheight

htedbysi yellow-wa

fthewholetemple is

wa torches,severally

hecentrea isle , atabout

the ground.A nele-

romfifteento twenty

ndthefollowingevening,

altar, holdingthirteen

andoneofbleachedwa ,

sof thetrianglewhich


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

achcandlestandsbya

postles.Thewhite

e , isa llo ttedtotheV irgin

feach ofthetwelve

ervice,oneofthe yellow

,till,thewhitetaperburn-

andconcealedbehind

ertheceremony,the

ty-firstpsalm,set,every

ofmusic,issungin a

ncelastsneithermore

ttheconclusionof the

up abruptlywithout

athunderingnoiseby

eatsagainsttheframeof

ponderousbreviaries

Rubric directs.

PA S S ION W E K .

mass(the onlyone

edonthisandthene t

dedasaremembrance

appropriately,ofa

asplendidcommemorationwhich

deto sorrow.Theser-

assumesthe deepest

ells,whichwerejoin-

meverysteeple,ceaseat

heavystillness,which


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

sewhohave livedina

longenoughtolosethe

petualtinklingwhich

day,andgreatpartof

hemass,is carriedwith

rarystructurecalled

everychurchwith

cordingto thewealthof

tisdepositedin asilver

asepulchre,thekey of

chain,is committed

oneof themostrespect-

sh,whowearsit round

our, t il lthene tmorn-

dralMonumentisen-

fpresent,or tothedean

st-mentionedstruc-

d.Itfillsupthe space

nave,rising infive

mple.Thecolumnsof

ikethe restofthe

marblefillettedwith

henumerousat-

he lightsthatcoverit

rytop,todotheir duty

ours,withoutanydis-

tle.Morethanthree


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

,besidesonehundredand

mployedinthe illumi-

wels,which contains

aneleganttempleof

vehundredandten

gha blazeoflight,on

ment.Twomembersof

robes,andsi inferior

on theirkneesbefore

evedbyanequalnum-

theendofeveryhour.

rformedwithoutinter-

fdepositingthehost in

ngitoutthene tmorn-

as manyothersofthe

ptopenandilluminated

thetown,onthis

nnerwhichthearch-

pers,incommemoration

neristobeseenla idout

rgeroomsinthepalace.

pletelyclothedatthe

andhavingpartak enofa

kitchen,are furnished

waythe splendidcom-

eparatedishes,which

softhetown.E ach,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

seofhis napkin,cu-

gureofsomebirdor

buybothasornamentsto

asspecimensof the

four poorernunshave

thearchbishop,attended

heCathedral,wherehe

hich,fromthenotionof

byour S aviour,iscalled

epaupersareseatedon

hehighaltar andthe

robes,andkneeling

washestheirfeetina

ssions,knownbythe

aternities)begintomove

sto whichtheyareat-

ice appointsthehour

ntsis toappearinthe

ownHall,andthe A udi-

romthencetheirroute

f it,toacertain point,

treetsarelinedby two

wer classes,thewindows,

a higherrank.A n

edbythe town-crier,

decoratetheir windows,

ut theshowysilkand

irbeds.Theproces-

ptonewhichenjoysthepri-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





fA l N .

nin thedeadofnight,

yeoraffecttheimagina-

oconveygroupsof

presentingdifferentscenes

sion.

kableintheestablished

fsomefigures.The

ongaquilinenoses.

bald.Thedress ofthe

d thatofJudasIscariot

yassociatedisthis circum-

etraitor,thatithas

versaldiscredit.It is,

stance(thoughyellow

udasfrom somemore

eInquisitionhasadopted

oatofinfamy,whichper-

recompelledto wear.

Peter sbaldness,seems

epaintersandsculptors

ausua lnameinS pa in;

should seem,wasused

pare stime. " Hishair, says

t, " iso f thedissembling

answers € ” " S omething

erivesconsiderable

he hour,andthedress

cred image.N oneare

ct butthemembersof

yyoungmenoffashion.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

tunic,withabroadbelt

ideaofa longropetied

methodofpenancecom-

imes.Thefaceis co-

il,fallingfromasugar-

us arrayed,thenominal

entandmeasuredsteps,

a insi f eetlong, and

dleoftwelvepounds,which

e,holdingit obliquely

betweenthem.The

ff withthecapandtunic,

hesightbutfor twosmall

yesareseen togleam,

e dismalappearanceof

leasureofappearing

wheremasqueradesare

nment,isa greatin-

nforsubscribing tothis

disguise,itistrue, does

erulesofstrictdecorum

res; yetthemockpeni-

paidforthefatigueand

freshimpressionwhich

thea lreadywonheartsof

reconcertedsignals,are

rlovers,in spiteofthe

he dresses.

incethedisgustinge -

gintheir ownblood,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

erof theGovernment.

erallyfromamongthe

donedofthelowerclasses.

enpetticoats,pointed

jacketofthesame

henakedshouldersto

otheirjoiningthepro-

heback,they beatthem-

e-tails,makingtheblood

eirgarment.Itmay

igionhadno sharein

.Therewasanotion

ancehadane ce llent

andwhilevanitywas

whichthe mostbloody

thevulgar,astillstronger

theirresistibleimpression

ngbellesofthelower

spentthe evening

ursdayinvisitingthe

ethehostisentombed,

ythinned,performing

thebeginningof service

e mostimpressiveof

Rome.Thealtars,

rday smass,werepub-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 25

oftheir clothsandrich

dsofthepriest, appear

ssednegligence.N o

ceptthedeep-toned

n chauntsingers.A fter

,andthedramatizedhis-

ydescribed,theofficiating

hecathedral)in aplain

upaw oodencrosssi o r

eallother crosses,has

entbeencoveredwith

ingtowardsthepeople,

ar, graduallyuncovers

boththeclergy andlaity

Theprelateis then

nisters,andtakingthe

der,asourS aviourisre-

swayto Calvary,walks

entranceofthepresby-

isburdenupontwo

movesbacksomesteps,

withthree prostrations,

ationofapieceof money,

lechapter,havinggone

ny,formthemselvesin

emonument,fromwhence

ysthedepositedhostto

nicatesuponitwithout

retheservicetermi-

dlesandlampsaree tin-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nacle,whichthroughoutthe

afers,beingleftopen,

desolateandwidowed

e deathoftheS aviour

ridaybeingshortand

,boththe gayandthe

howtospendtheremain-

rotesquePassionS er-

ighbouringvillages

rmanceknownbythe

threehours.

n meditationfrom

k of thisday € ” thetimewhich

tohavehungon thecross

by theSpanishJesuits, andpar-

aracterwhichthe mem-

arttoimpartto thereli-

eycherishedthe devo-

Thechurchwherethe

nerallyhunginblack,

ay-light.A largecru-

ha ltar, underablack canopy ,

a -candles, w hichcasta

restof thechurch.The

,asusual, thecentreof

elingonthe matted

ismal appearanceof

ftheirveilsanddresses.

elve,apriestinhis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . . 2C 1

sthepulpit,and deliversa

owncomposition.He

itationonthe S even

okenbyJesusonthecross,

rtionoftimeasthat,

cwhich followeachof

aynote ceedthree

lygoodand appro-

and canbecollected,

he inconvenienceofa

omthewantofseats,

regationareobligedeither

ct,oneof thebest

d,ashorttimeago,for

whoshewedboththeir

procuringthismaster-

e oftheircountry.It

nGermany,underthe

.

manceis somanaged

abouttheendofthe

tisf inished. â€ Thede-

gSav iour, pow erfullydraw n

eTresHoras,can

aginationwhenlistened

uchmusicandscenery

keoftheclock,thepriest

aloudand impassioned

ummationoftheawful

nwhosepainfuland


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





OM S PA I N .

asbeendwellingso

elthe impiession,andstill

Tearsbathe everycheek,

malebosom. € ” A f terapart-

,the ceremonyconcludes

erethepowersofthe

ficentlydisplayedinthe

dagitationof nature

late.

rthepopulacemightbe

ThreeHours.Theyare

openair,by friars ofthe

partsof thecityand

fnot e clusively,inha-

uchgayyoungmen,

to relievethedullnessof

, andfee lnodangerofe -

unseasonablelaughter,

nthefrolic ofattending

nd perfectsermonsof

ngvillageof Castilleja.

edbefore thechurch

ssessedof astentorian

dhistoryofthePassion,

a intB ridget, aF ranciscan

nofthe V irginMary,

andcircumstantialac-

ofChristandhis

ve,however,would

estbutforthe scenic


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thee pectationand

udience.Itwasfor-

ucea livingS aintPeter

ichbe longedbyanatura landin-

estheadinthev il lageâ € ” -

sdenia l, sw earingbyC hrist,

Thisedifyingpart

tedat Castilleja; though

wswithsucha shrilland

nsweredwithachallenge

eneighbourhood.The

nces,inthe sequel,the

epassedbythe Roman

crierdeliversit withlegal

ispractisedinS pain,

ardlyhasthe lastw ord

eacher,ina franticpas-

direct,cursingthetongue

hemies. Hethenin-

bothPilateandthe

eorator sdesire,aboy

shedwithapair ofgilt

rsatthewindow,andpro-

Heaven.S ometimesin

snarrative,animageof

o meetthatofChrist,on

kingan affectionateleave

ce,however,ofthe

gua, theusua le clamationwhich

meajoculare pressioninA ndalusia .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rchieftocollect asumfor

romitted,bothbecause it

dienceintotears,and

collection forthecon-

y theDescendimlento,

aslargeaslif e f romthecross

ytwofriars,who,inthe

rimatheaandN icodemus,

arpenters tools,letting

be placedonabier and

heformofa funeral.

such partsofthis

uldshockmanyanE ng-

e.Y etsuchis the

rstitionandprofanenessin

icationthesescenesare

nyattempttoe posethe

wouldrousetheirzeal

notventuretotranslatethe

tarefrequentlyheard

santryuponthesesacred

O R E A S T R.

certainthereasonwhy

atetheresurrectionthis

onofnearlyfourand

inuethefasttill mid-

unday.Thispractice

ity.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rningwithouteither

sicalinstruments.The

he north-sideofthe

thesize ofthatused

otestagainstallcharges

fact, apil la ro fwa ,

hickinproportion,

lepedestal.It weighs

sandpounds,oftwelve

andpaintednew,every

gbrok entopiecesonthe

tsunday,thedaywhen

nsecrationofthe bap-

chis lightedwiththe

gthe prieststrikesout

servicetillA scension-

rplice climbsupagilt-

pslike aflag-staff,and

oastoadmit ofaseat

hecandle . F romthis

lightsup andtrimsthe

themeltedw a w itha large

behindthegreatveil,

ksinLentcoversthe

atoryprayers,thepriest

a ine ce lsisDeo. A t this

ee plosionoffireworks

beratesin athousand

he church,andthefour-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

stower,awake,with

ddeningsounds,-those

rty-si steepleswhich

f.A briskfiringof

bythehowlingofthein-

nclaimedbyanymaster,

eets,addsstrengthand

:The firingisdirected

ures,notunliketheGuy

ovember; w hichareseen

rope, e tendedacrossthe

isthen thatthepious

villeisventedagainstthe

eyannuallyhang,shoot,

aprocessionabout

the hostinhishands,

picturewithinamedal-

omthegloomyap-

itsministers,tothe

erofthis procession,the

orida,thefloweryPassover,

theflowersthemselves,

n,mi edwiththecenser-

und,crowdthe mind

opes,and feelingsof

this ceremony,evenfor

ersonalpresenceinthe

overdeath ; acharacter

ness.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ga MayQ ueenamong

erstand,stillpractised

ThenameofMaia,given

he village,who,de-

wers,leadsthedances

spend theday,shews

asvariedsince thetime

rs,inotherprovinces,

ng,duringthe preceding

apling,deckedwith

ftheirsweethearts.

hurchfestivalswere

rthePaganrites, which

uldnototherwiseera-

emnantsofthe sane

rosses,whichthe

wers,andplaceupon

htedtapersas,from

ends,theycan afford

renatCambridge

eMay-lady,andsetting

yofthepassengers.The

dtheanalogousS panish

ility,fromthe respec-

untryof theMay-pole,

theV irgin, w hichthe

toanamelessaswell as


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





R OM BPA I N .

aceofthelatter,while

banishthe former.I

the illuminatedgrottos

heLondonchildrenbeg

epresentativesofsome

aditsdayas asubs-

dol.Iwasstruckin

ofthe pleawhichthe

rgei nordertoobtain

butonceayear, sir "

astsaday.

earwhenthe con-

d,aboutthestreets,tothe

de.Thetriumphal

nwhichissuesforth from

erytownofnoteinthe

shofbitter andthreaten-

uisedundertheardent

splayedonthisfestival,

piritofdefiancewhich

thecontroversiesupon

hinmymemorythat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ecorumwhichthisMe-

evincedinthe per-

hip,putanendto the

ngappendageswhichan

ne edtothispageant.

ntofthe procession

giganticfigures,male

s,contrivedbythemost

of thetown,regulated

theensuingseason.A

edundereachof the

gapingmultitudewere

switha veryclumsy

gures,tothesound of

tto theB robdignag

denceofall,therefol-

e,thefigureofa Hydra

ich,to thegreatdelight

ville,apuppetnotunlike

rletjackettrimmedwith

ostartup andhaving

nce,vanishedagain

themonster.The

ureborethe nameof

donotknoweither

Thatthesefigures

doubt whohasany

softhesi teenthand

wouldbedifficult,how-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ohscuretradition,to

erriwigsandswords,and

andpetticoats,wereem-

sins.The Hydra,it

Heresy,guardingthe

olly,symbolizedbythe

splayedhersupreme

onsterswassupposed

eforethetriumphant

theprocession, there

cers thel^alencianos,

f V alencia,who,in

osewaistcoats,puffed

wristsand elbowswith

andbroadwhitetrow-

knees,performeda

rstepswithfeats of

sefollowedthe sword-

fashionofthecountry:

mersofanantiquated

Ibe lievetheC hacona, dressedin

teenthcentury.

tioneddescription,and

lperformedbeforethe

ofthechapter,atthe

n thisdayandthe

edancersareboysofbe

ho,underthenameof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 2 71

a inedattheco llegew hichthe

educationofthe acolytes,

boys,accompaniedby

ccompositioninS panish,

sses,consistsoftwo

,to whichthedancers

oughavarietyoffigures

angedattheconclusion

cingeachotheras at

gentlecaper,rattling

rtolaysilentand con-

this grotesqueper-

edtocontinue,is,I be-

ich thischaptertake

the Popetothedancers,

viewof theconse-

ertywhichtheKinghimself can-

mnotmisledbyreport,

o f , e cepttheDuk esof

tainoccasions,clapon

ofthehost,anddrawthe

eadinessto giveacon-

mentagainsttransub-

ionbeginstomove

ctlyatnine inthemorn-

laceofthe forty

rasIk now , peculiartoSev il le . The

thatofsizarsusedat Cambridge,

noriginin thetwowords.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





l A IN .

haveQ onventsinthis

therintwolines,ac-

orderof precedence.

tyoftheirdresses,no

mbers,wouldgreatly

niard,towhomsuch

liar. € ” N e tappearsthe

ngtotheCathedral,

smallstagemovedby

dunderthe richdrapery

otheground.V asesof

shapesand sizes,con-

the inestimabletreasure

accuratecatalogue:

sopher.

assbyPopeSaintC lement, the

aintPeter.

holomew.

thousandvirgins.

ody .

.

ervandusandGermanus.

us.

efttotheCathedralbyK ing

ainingthreehundredrelics.

tLeander, w ithhisbones.

our scrow n.

ross.

dyofprebendariesand

nferiorministers.S uch,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

e procession,andthe

hich itproceeds,that,

s,ittakesawholehour

eets, besidesbeing

an fortheprocessionsof

dedallthe waywitha

mentisstrewedwith

militarycodeofS pa in

requarteredina town

splace,tofollowit under

nnumber, to linethe

topass.

ces,thefirst appear-

reetsise ceedingly

welsofthe greatest

ghtedtapersanden-

eteleganttempleof

whendescribingtheMo-

sitmovedtothedoorof the

ounceitspresencewitha

dsofmilitarymusicmi

thesolemnhymnsof

serise beforethemoving

edbytheloudvoice of

fthe armswhichthe

wntotheground.When

eshrine-f-presentit at

wheretheroutecommences,

dboththepavementand

eeLetterII. p. 34.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rofoundadoration,with-

theobjectof theirawe

reoftenscatteredfrom

tbeautifulnosegaysadorn

blestage.

wsthearchbishop,

sticalretinue.Oneof

gedoublecrossofsilver,

dignity.Thetrainof

rtedby anotherclergy-

theprelate sattendants

offamily,whodisdain

nthee pectationofhigh

hatgivesallthis state

ishisan inferiorminister

cularfanof richlyem-

etin diameter,andat-

feetinlength. A ta con-

archbishopthisfan iscon-

duringthesummermonths

rvice,thusrelievinghim

sofhisrobes underthe

a.Thiscustomis,Ibelieve,

mthoseofdevotion

fthe Baptist sfestival.

emperatureofamid-

cientcustomconnected


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 2 75

" S a intJohn, saysthe

tseverygirlagadding. The

ftersunset,andthe e -

night,flirtation,orin the

rlaPava,(pluckingthe

nasthestar- lightofa

thepartialglareof

ntgroupstomi witha

njoyedinamasquerade.

musementpossesesmore

htheironbarsof the

insaboutmidnight.

mposetheirmamasto

glide unperceivedtothe

d sittingonthewindow-

k,whichisused inthis

wait,inthe truespiritof

agedtoadull,common-

,)forthechancesparks,

alkthestreetsfrom

owever,asthemerelove

enightatthe windows,

femalecompanion,asister,

uritemaid,totakeashare

a changeofcharacters

svisiters.These,too,

ed,walkaboutinparties,

acteras theyconsider

upport.Onepretendsto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

omthecountry,another

reignerspeakingbroken

makingloveinthe stillless

vince.The gentlemen

oless astockofsweet-

umstanceofbeingfolded

ofpaper,arecalledPape-

alkandwit.A defi-

rdonable; sothatabore,

ady toquitthepostw hen

templatetheout-sideof

habitualdistanceat

kept fromthoseabove

eeablemeddlingontheir

indulgein thesefrolics,

rusionandimpertinence.

elds,practisedbythe

samenight,i sthere

bena gatheringV erva in; an

vedfromanancientsuper-

ternaturalpowersto

attw elveo clock onSt.

rnalramblesofthepresent

alarmthe guardiansof

o f ficee istedamongus,

essonthe scoreofwitch-

sitors.

mtheverbMajar, tobeatinamortar.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 2 77

OM W .

sA postletakesplace

tisnot, how ever, to

umstanceconnectedwith

w hich, infact, isscarce ly

liarso lemnity € ” thatI

rivatesuperstitious

s amostcuriousmo-

e pioushousewivesin

iallytheTertianand

moninmostpartso fA n-

theychieflyattackthe

andwhethertheun-

tsof people,butpar-

grapesand melons,

onofthe disease,or

nceofthetwo factsis,

andef fect it isanes-

rt ofthecountrythat,

urceof theague,an

offoodis indispensable

ttreacherouscomplaint.

rticularS aint,tosu-

artmentofcuringthe

tentwiththe Catholic

nthat pointwouldmore

toenotunder thein-

aspectintheV o S te l-

ywondersin E ngland.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





A I N .

lottedtoS aintBar-

ceis asufficientinduce-

fE sculapiustomount

,anddoseyouwith the

heismasterof buthow

r,wouldbe apuzzling

adition teachesthe

ryindividualmentioned

a inthasapeculiarfancy € ”

fPadua, w how illo f tendelay

cletill youplungehim

topsy-turvyuponthe

ylon,whoisreadiestto

theirpetitionswith

na lcaper. A stoS a int

linducehimtocurean

,onthedayofhis fes-

ptbreadandf ruit € ” the

his miraculousinter-

tocommonopinion,

naggravationofthe

yedbytheRoman

ermittents.Itis

ustranslatedby

uartanfeverlies

nthe fondmothercries,

hine,all-powerfulJove

diseaseremove,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ysolemnfast proclaim,

ndinT iber sstream.

hysician sart, upraise

atedisease;

geher haplessboy,

he childdestroy. *

nsuperstitionsadapted

commontoe citesur-

mlarity inthee ternalso f

stcompared,thatcon-

mindis struckaloneby

superstition,which,at-

tions,ourownpassions

albeings,endeavoursto

eringtheirvanity.Both

dernS panishvowfor

mtosetat defiancethe

blecausesofthedisease,

eekdeliverance; asifto

s theundoubtedandfull

asadimisqtiedolores,

mquinquecubantis),

nareliquerit,illo

unia,nudus

C asus, medicusve levarit

materde liranecabit

rimquereducet.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

UD IC S A N D P RA C T IC S .

erstitiousmethodused

ofthe ague,Iwishto

f somepopularpre-

ctedwith theprevalent

bablyadd afewfacts

tterreasonthanthatI

themunderanyother.

ibrastoanantiquated

believemaybeillus-

mto whichIwassome-

hood.Thepassage

nbark sof trees

ourishes,....

nstum,

paignebecome.

idby sickpersonsto

opeofrecoveringhealth

nimageisworshipped

shchurchesinthis

V irginofHealth.

ationdrawsnumbers

ingin thecentreofthe

rivesconsiderablesplen-

ne changeforthese

of printedpapercontain-

wordsS ahisinfirmorum,

oF .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ofillness,oneof the

coiledintoa smallroll,

aglassofwater.

es dangerouslyill,

licsandamuletsthan

valid,underthecare of

sphialsofall shapes

ladynearherconfine-

n procuringherevery

anceforthetrying hour

s oftendressedinthe

int,whichare supposed

nin contactwiththe

tioner.Butwhatever

oseto imploreinthose

wowhoseassistance,by

rthe appareloftheir

dwith.Thenamesof

rsareS aintRaymundus

incentF errer. Thatthe

edaspeculiarlyinterested

s additionimplies,been

mbofhisdeadmother, is

.But,F errerssympathy

nation.

t iveofV a lencia , andamonk

minic,possessedthegift

ee,thatheperformed

y,andnotunfrequently

pliedto,ona certain


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

edlady,whomtheidea

keptinastate ofcon-

redS aintdesiredherto

asdeterminedtotake

onvenienceortrouble

.S omeweekshad

onk,whohadforgotten

rdinthedeadof night

mannersounusual,and

sionalS aint,thathe

ytohiscell. N othing,

mysterioussufferings,

est ofthenightas well

fear ofarelapsewould

hrenin painfulsuspense,

ndof thetimidlady,who

ar,takenanearlyoppor-

theunconsciousdelivery

incent, thoughaccording

ingtostanda second

adies, is, f romavery

ntlyinreadinesstoact

panishmatrons.

I N F A N T A N D MA I D .

eathofachildthepas-

shallmakeit anapology

presenttransition.The

ahumanbeing,asI have


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

,accordingtoCatholic

thyear consequently

gthat age,are,bythe

ubitablyentitledtoa

ofan infantisthere-

oallbutthose inwhose

loudtobe controlledby

ocalluponthepa-

atetheirbitternessby

gincreasedthe number

sson theseoccasionsis

L i tt l e A n g el s t o He a ve n € ” a n

ichneverfailstodraw

theeyesofa mother.

efuneralis meanttoforce

echild,dressedin

nedwithawreathof

officiatingpriestin silk

andtheclergymenwho

omwhencethefuneral

g injoyfulstrainsthe

minum,whilethebells

peal.Thecoffin,with-

v iew the litt lecorpse

urwell-dressedchildren

tapersoftheclergy.

ofmourningwhatever

earestrelatives; the

striumph,andthe organ

ndswiththe hymns,which


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

atendersoul, when

nt tributeofpain,it

tonf romthepow erofsor-

raced withmoretears

ntialmourningsproduce

er melancholywhich

woftheformaland

atholicinfant islaidin

manamongus

crante ,

ndthebringinghome

fflowers,apalm-branch

and; anemblemofv ictory

ove,whichmanya poor

willinglye changedfor

dressedin everyother

oflin iscoveredwitha

therfunerals.

Hamletbeginswith

ntcustom,whichisstill

monumentalcrosses

thosewho haveperished

ers,

es,shouldbethrownon her.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

erypeasantwhen

nd melancholymonu-

s alwaysobservedatthe

owever,insteadofprayers,

mto imply,butasatale

ernosterssaid bythe

rs,mightbereckoned.The

edcustomappears,from

roverbs,tobeverygreat.

ranslatedasit isinthe

ble, runsthus: " A she

nein aheap,sois he

o l. *

umustknow,is of

adethebasisof Jerom s,

urthcentury,renders

blemanner.S icutqui

Mercurii itaquitribuitin-

hatcasts astoneonthe

c. N ow , bearinginmind

thrownuponcertain

t, accordingtothepassagein

stomseemstohavepre-

rope; andthatJerom

piritof theHebrewpro-

dwhichthe E nglish

toconstruessling,or a

se,acervusMercurii a


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

frequentlyplacedoverse-

ns € ” bearinga llthisin

methatthecustom ofcover-

esthrownat random,must

eof thewritero f thePro-

owedto conjecture

nishmentofstoning,so

thatpassengersflung

ence,on theheapwhich

a l thattheprim itive

wereJews,followedthe

heirhorrorof heathen

meto beknown,inJe-

lationof heapsofMercury

pliedthesamecustomto

beendeemedunworthy

and,finally,thatthefre-

esandmurdersinS pain

theideaof crime,and

tionintooneof prayer

fortunatevictim.

T IA N N A M S .

tionoftheCatholics,

othe V irginMary,and

eclergy,that asmany

esgivento achildat bap-

engagedtotakei tunder

anationalpeculiarity


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . . 28 7

thefirst placefew

nnamesenteredinthe

hichisgiventothe priest

intheact ofchristen-

fficultindeed,under

mostpeopletoknowe -

eciallyif,likemyself,

witheleven.Thecustom

lowseveryindividual

he list.Inourdevo-

vehithertoavoidedthe

renchMonsieurMarie,

aniardhasMariafora

umerableimagesof

upplytheusual namesof

onthemostludicrous

thad notdivertedthe

ng.N onamesare

arnacion, Incarnation € ”

€ ” V isitacion, V isita tion € ”

R egla , R ule € ” Dolores, Pa ins

n g ui s he s € ” S o l ed a d, S o l it u de € ” N a t i v i-

ert it lesof theV irginaf -

eableassociations.S uch

” A u r o r a € ” A m p ar o , Pr o te c ti o n € ”

S a l ud , H ea l th € ” P a st o ra , S h e p -

Dew , &c. B utw ords, asit is

ethecolour oftheob-

ached andIhave


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

esamongourA ndalusians,

umerous,mighthave

esignificationsof the

nteresttakesplacebe-

ason,itis alreadytimeto

thee piringyear.

rfortyyearssince,

toprepare,foranal-

one. ortw oroomsof the

syimitationofrocks

mberofbaby-housesand

thecommonestactions

a multitudeoflampsand

ble,surroundedbysheep

efrontoftheroom,with

,andsomeshepherds,

echildinthemanger € ”

ano im itatedw iththe

collectionofpuppets,

,thoughseldomintended

ouses,bothfortheamuse-

ificationofthe family

ends.

vejustmentioned,the

aprete tforco llectinga

veralnightsin dancing,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

musementsdescribedin

roomsbeing illumi-

ythefriends ofthefamily

estivitiesof theevening,

hisnameat thedoor,

reladies,who,if but

sterofthehouse,would

amusementswhichfol-

,dancing,andnotun-

enfromtheoldS panish

meofRelaciones.Re-

atelyas anaccomplish-

males; andpersonswho

thatart,stoodupat

yto deliveraspeechwith

oldschoolofacting,just

ndsby performingupon

refreshmentoftheChrist-

res,andsweetwinesor

senoughtofreethehouse

anness:thusmirth and

moderatee pense.But

sseldomaffordamusement

hee ceptionofsinging

zambomba,littleremains

description ofthe

olesssoundingnameI

eneral inmostparts

houghnever usedatany


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





R OM S PA I N .

of reed(A rundoDona )is

pieceofparchment, without

,softenedbymoisture,

roundthemouthofalarge

t,whendry,acquires

d beingslightlycovered

nchedhandtoglideupand

llowsoundofthe same

sfrom thetambourine

dlefinger.

stmasE vebeginsat

illfive inthemorning.

every churchinthe

mber,ortheunseasonable-

serviceunattendedin

hedra lise ce llent. It

artoftheLatin prayers,

ears,usedinaspecies of

ulgartongue,which

rtain intervalsofthe

henameof V illancicos,

shepherdsandshepherdesses

esepastorals.The

penseoftheChapter,were

hostill regrettheloss

heS wainsofBethlehem.

equires aformalcall

welfth-day,onallone s

esareplacedin thehouse

vethecards ofthevi--


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eatsarecommonbetween

ndtotheir medicalat-

cknowledgmentofatur-

greatpracticeopenakind

sposaloftheirpoultry.

flocksby gipseys,who

theungovernablepha-

tsofOld Castile,andchiefly

archwhichtheyperform

dredmiles,andlasts

.Theturkeys,which

rsmerechickens,acquire

ashionables,intravel-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

as beensuddenand

eandro,fromwhomIam

advisedbyhisphysicians

ingmelancho ly € ” the

to hisprofessionalduties,

ussystemwith which

inthef reedomanddissipation

ndit impossibletotear

etoMadrid,adistanceof

tyE nglishmiles, is

ycarriagesdrawnbysi

mtentoelevendays.A

rmedbythecoachman,

dayandhourforsetting

the stages,prescribes

hemorning,andeven,

engerattendsmasson a

rchfestivalduring the

ver,ofimportancenot


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

movalf romSev il le , w echose

veyancebyposting,and

t,setoffin anopenand

” theusua lvehiclesti l lw ithin

ofourpoliceandgo-

mstanceofourbeing

rt,notfor Madrid,but

stosmuggleourselvesinto

Gracia yt/usticia,or

ero,oneofthemostwill-

sofour arbitrarycourt,

itudeofplace-hunters,

tendientes,whoflockedto

haslatelyissuedan

swhatever,tocometo

viouslyobtainar oyal

g spleasurew ouldhave

nvenience,andprobablyto

minister sorderwas

d,a periodatwhich

wobsolete,andwe did

ce llency w etrustedto luck

ttleobstacleswhichmight

ofinferiorofficers.

adescriptionof our

ysatthepost-houses € ” ourdi-

penasforthesakeofits

rawnfromtheimmense

ptburiedin theground


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

se andtightpost-

lesabreast,whichare

adrid.Ido notlovedes-

eIcannotsucceedin it.

thegoodnesstoapplyfor

wish youtoremark

ongourcities)in Bur-

otherprofessedtraveller.

rto,belimited towhat

likelytoseeor under-

ddistinctnessof anative.

beingunlimitedin

esaclosere aminationf rom

ntedwiththemoralstate

refore,beginwitha

of thatinfluence,care-

portwhichhasreachedme

espectablechannels,or

fountain-headofpower

,till lately,beenthe

late DukeofParma,a

tapproachingoldage,

auty.S hehadbeenbut

epresentK ing,then

nshediscoveredastrong

hichtheaustereand

r-in-lawCharlesIII.

Her husband,oneof

derivebliss fromig-

edastrongande clusive


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

Thisattachment,com-

ssimplicity,closes his

achofsuspicion.

ncess thatawaken-

y , w asagentlemanofhisson s

oncernedfortheho-

thanforthe strictness

giousprinciples,hehad

hiscourt he issuedanorder,

hemostdistantpro-

letobearthis separa-

withthecharacter ofher

obtaintherecall ofOrtiz

lously fa ithfultohispro-

tchedthefirst oppor-

sfavour,andfalling

boonof Ortiz sreturn,

gingthat" hiswife

withouthim,ashe

ngly . Theo ldKing,

thiswonderfulsim-

nthe good-natured

C alla , tonto! De a lo irse:

" Ho ldyourtongue, booby !

tonthouart! "

,ofherentertaining

tein ayoungofficer

wasthe eldestofthree

decayedfamily,in the

a,whoservedtogetherin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

e clusivelycomposedof

ksbeingfilledbycom-

celyhadthisnewattach-

heoldK ingunmercifully

ecreeof banishment

order was,asusual,

ssedlover couldonly

Manuelwitha parting

miseofhis beingthe

fconstancyand despair,

tedby thepost.

setiquetteofthe

separateguardtoevery

y,thoughalllive within

andtoplacesentine lsw ith

f everysuiteofapart-

rmedwithoutinter-

e militarycorpsjust

ydidnotfinditdifficult

e sguard, asof tenashe

certaintuneplayed

with whichthatyoung

idlehoursoftheguard,

he Princesstoaprivate

gerhadsecret,but free

ievethat Luissamor-

eeffect forsomeweeks,

livedalmoste clusively

timewasworkingasad


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 2 7

fthe banishedlover.

oreinteresting,andthe

lessconfidantbecame

lsto thePrincess,and

withhergood-natured

ghadnowremoved

een sga llantries, andMa-

vancedtothehighest

e firstranksofthe

gndidnotyet feel

ne; andthedy ingKing s

vouriteF loridablanca,by

spower,stillset some

scaprices. C harlesIV . , though

scontrol,couldnotbe pre-

oldservantofhisfather

ason; andsomerespectfor

ichseldomfails tocast

n thefirstdaysof every

nherselftoemployother

herwillin theruinof

wever,havepreserved

d beenallowedtoretire

s jealousyoftherising

osethetide offavour

se thatyoungmantoa

ss.To provideforthe

rank,theQ ueenhadin-

owuponGodoya princely


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





OM S PA I N .

own,fromwhichhe was

k edelaA lcudia . F lori-

ciple,orsomeless

htitnecessarytooppose

dhavinginducedtheKing

astilleuponthatpoint,

answeragreeabletohis

r tohisfriendthe Count

ortheminister,before

anIldefonso,wherethe

epresidentwasseized

ndthedispatchesfalling

tituteCanada,were

ueen.Itisneedless

hecouncilwasfavourable,

edela A lcudia,andthat

werenowwhollybentupon

sinf luencew iththeK ing,

encirculated againstthat

harged withhavingde-

talianbankerconnected

nment.Tooconscious,it

f theaccusation,F lorida-

ttheinjured partyof

ulatorof thelampoon.

tionwas,however,written

a luccicouldcommand, and

dnotbe satisfiedwithout

pieshavinginformed


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

anca,amanofwitand

a lucci s, hehadnoneedof

Thebankerwasim-

thekingdom,andthe

fBurgos,underthein-

civilauthorities.

edwhenthese men,

tedwiththestate of

atthehandsofjustice,

fromthespirit ofre-

ueentoseektheruin of

. C harlesIV . be ingin-

sconducttow ardsS a lucci

called toCourt.His

ngalarge collectionof

dandput. intotheMarquis s

mentsinasecretprocess

ster:who,accordingto

as,inthemeantime,sent

fPamplona.Hiscon-

otprolongedbeyondthe

mintheK ing sopinion;

wo oftheRoyal

ardon,wasissued,by

iltyofembezzlingforty-

s enlargedfromhisclose

toresideatMurcia,his

whetherF lorida-

t shortlyprecedehisac-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N -

mmediateconsequence

ingjointhecoalition

edeathofLouisX V I.

s,theonly sovereignin

mat thefateoftheun-

dmoreatheart therecol-

fromhiscousin,than

erestandblood.Charles

ccessiontothethroneof

congratulationbeingpre-

s,that monarchhumour-

oughttheletterhardly

orman, hesa id, " isamere

nedandhenpeckedbyhis

esuch adeepimpression

om him,whenLouiswas

gandalmostbrutalremark

adytofind faultwith

vemanagedhisownaffairs

eA randa, w ho, inthe

tantlyvotedforpeace

nted, inF ebruary , 17 2, to

Buttheturnofaffairs,and

esofthealliedsovereigns,

s andhaving,atthe

issedA randawithallthe

y,thenDukeof A lcudia,

ortobegin hostilities

t enterintoanarrative

sastrouswar.A nap-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 01

edupthe S paniards,

heir neighboursonthe

Butthe F rencharmies

ments,wouldhavesoon

adrid,ifhis favourite

ssthanheeverdiscovered

mentofpoliticalaffairs,

fiedthe peaceofBasle.

tryat theprogressof

nso strong,thatpeace

m; andthepublicjoy,

vebeenunalloyedbut

ardsgrantedtoGodoyfor

nityabovethegrandee-

lone,and,underthetitle

doyw asplacedne tin

oyalblood.

thescaleofhonours

subjecthigherthanthe

e a l te d G od o y € ” a m ar r i ag e i nt o

lydistinction which

ughtoconfer onthe

dtothejealousyofhis

omthehopeofthe young

adrid fromallpartsof

arriedladyof thenameof

whosecharmsbothof

vecaptivatedamuch less

doy s. F romthemoment


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

arents.La Tudo(we

ousinnamingladiesofall

dasupremacyabovethe

vourite slove,thatthe

overlookedacrowdofoc-

against anattachment

.It had,indeed,

roduceunquestionable

ntimacy,inachild whose

forthasif sanctionedby

denwithany conscious-

rtbeingcirculatedatcourt,

cewassecretlymarried

nafit ofjealousy,accused

of ingratitude,inthus

omanof nobirth,with-

ferenceto hisroyalbe-

osefondnessforGodoy

scontrol,seemedinclined

emarriage; but,being

oyalcountryresidences

heEscuria l, Ibe lieve, w herethe

swithinthepalace; the

hrougha secretpassage,to

edthe loverstakingtheir

e-h-tite.

hissight musthave

oftheroyalcouple,that

sedat thestrangeness

y todenythemar-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

whosegoodnaturewas

foramerelove-intrigue

en,hopelessofever

ecto f thega llantriesofa

nedby theblindestin-

dlestthestepshehad

yfromher presence.A

sions,andaperfect

eelingswhichvice itself

arts,sheseemedsatis-

efrival fromrising

mistress and,provided

one towhomherpara-

edtoseehimmarried,

maker.

r,DonLuis, who,inspite

dthearchbishoprick ofSev il le ,

wasof agetotakeholy

handedmarriagewith

meofV a llabriga hadle ft

nderthe guardianshipof

Thoughnot,hitherto,

r sname,thesechildren

e; anditis probablethat

usof puttingtheminpos-

to theirbirth,long

sedtheeldestofhernieces-

y sserv ices, anda

such salliesofyouthful

nbetweenpleasureand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eseor similarreasons

erselfwithconjecture,

ventslie notonlybe-

butthoseofa four-post

ofafewweeks,apublic

schildren, andthean-

aughter sintendedmar-

ePeace.

y sunboundedpower,

erehe enjoyedit,and

chhis elevationhad

dprecludealle pectation

ualitiesinhischaracter.

ectedwiththebeginning

rovethathe wa3not

sofdoing good,which,as

hokedwithcaresandriches

. Ihavebeenassured

sinterestedobserver,

freeaccess tothefavour-

odwhenwiththetitle

ew asattheheadof the

therewaseveryreasonto

ent,andattentiveinthe

andthathewasperfectly

rsand affectationwhich

orethan merit,areapt

Though, likea llthe

pinthe militaryprofession,

heshewedgreatrespect


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N " . 3 05

theformationofthe

hisown,when,fromhis

eintothe royalfamily,

hedutiesof office.

defirstministerofstate,

uickness,improvedboth

ationofreal life butso

averinginjudgment,so

,whileinoffice,he seemed

usinessinterminable,

hisowndepartment.

eS aavedra scolleague,is

the livingornamentsof

a tS a lamanca inoneof

orethereformwhich

eirhonoursand influence,

syouth,andgradually

premecouncilsofthena-

rableconductin every

candprivate,theurbanity

maleleganceof hiscon-

kinge emplificationof

ro.Withthevirtuesand

character,heunites

uliarto theperiodto

stpassionateattach-

distinctions ofblood,he

ationforall kindsofe -

tpartialitieswarphis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





R OM S PA I N .

ingit,uponnumerous

itedviews.A sajudge

asrespectedandadmired

e inanyofourprovincial

avebeena blessingtothe

hilethedignifiedleisure

eenabledhimto enrich

uctionsof hiselegant

ever,throughwhose

rownweretobe distri-

wheretwo-thirdsof

topatronageforacom-

sappointedthehopesof

high notionsofrank

mannerintodownright

artialityfor thenatives

e € ” probablybecausehe

mnantofGothic blood

ehimthemostunpopularo fminis-

thewelfareofthe na-

adually,andupona large

einfluenceofa profligate

theQ ueen sestablished

heoncemadeapersonal

favourofa certaincan-

.The ministergaveher

he personinquestion

tany oftheuniversities.

s a id t h e Q u e en , " d i d y ou


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 07

" â € ” A t S a l am a nc a , Ma -

h at a p i ty , r e jo i ne d s he , " t h at t h ey

ers! "

tywarfare,which

s dismissal,acircum-

oughitwasthe means

toJovellanosfora time,

oa fortressinMajorca,

rsunderaconfinement

smarriagewasscarcely

sintimacywithLa Tudo

uardedmanner.The

fjealousy,seemedsode-

ofherspoiledfavourite,

edintoahopeof making

claiminghispatron,if

t leasttotherulesofe -

dra,betteracquaintedwith

hatGodoycould, at

reeofascendancyoverthe

tlyintotheplot.N otso

ourtintrigueasoneof

chhe hadsolongprac-

lity,hecouldnotbring

tservinganotice upon

cordinglyforwarded

ceof thePeace,inwhich

blicandconjugalduties,

fforensicandmoral


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

nthemeantime,had

oa feelingapproaching

dthedecree forhis

nedbeforethe offending

uchdangeras torequire

halonecould restore

hisneglectedmistress.

etytonothingbutS aa-

latoriness.Thatminister

presentthedecreeof

gnature,tillthe dayafter

odoy,in themean

terviewwiththeQ ueen,

fa long-checkedandre-

e culpateherself,re-

€ ” theverymenw homGo-

€ ” astheauthorsof the

butedtheplantoJovella-

moment,themarked

sresentment.

ghnotimmediately

heunsteadinessofthe,

d,anddreadedthe re-

adalreadyshewn,inthe

na,thathewasbothable

heinstrumentsofthe

atof f icer, anIta lianbybirth,

oyageroundtheglobe,

seofthisGovernment,when

difficultto regulatethe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

wardsGodoy,tothe sud-

sofherown,inducedher

Matallana,toengagehim

totheK ing,containing

andprivateconduct of

ntinghiminthe blackest

histimepreparingthe

ublication,withthe as-

list,a S evillianfriar

r greatdearthofreal

ponasamiracleoferudi-

dmiral,puttingaside

agerlycollectedevery

chwaslikelytomake

ing w hilethef riar, in-

mitrereadytodrop on

e mostfloridand

dtoenrapturehis audi-

thingwasnowwanting

mandtospringthemineunder

oy,whenthe intended

ger,andtakingadvantage

entswhichmadethe

his own,drewfromhera

therwiththe namesof

ays,Malaspinafound

ess,where,withhis

ollections,andeverything

n,heremainscompletely

verendwriterofthememo-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nescortto S eville,the

glory, tobeconfinedin

rejuvenileoffendersof

toundergoasalutary

gthedismissalofS aave-

dangerousillnessof the

ewactorin theintricate

ho,hadheknownhow

e workedthecomplete

ecretaryofS tate sOffice € ”

f yourunder-secretaryof

andsomeyoungman, ca lledUrquijo.

unknowntoyou,ashe

theSpanishA mbassador

hmenttothe F rench

escouldnot failtoattract

quivocalheroicproofof

wedtothatparty.It

drownhimselfinthe

dens,uponlearningthe

tewiththePopeatTolen-

appointedhishopesof

nofthe PapalS ee,and

inconformitytoa

ectory.F ortune,however,

sformourbraveS ans-

rdedhima timelyrescue

andwhen,underthecareof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

broughttounderstand

ldinfluencethe events

urnedtoMadrid,to wield

ehispreviousqualification

adentitledhimtoa place,

othato fUnder- e-

erhasadayappointedin

” ca lledDiadeDespacho € ”

ingthecontentsofhis

maccordingto hisMa-

ueen,whoise cessively

stoattendon theocca-

thisaudience,stands,

allstoolneara largetable

theK ingandQueen.

ofbusiness,is, ofcourse,

sassiduity ; w hilenothing

blesherhusbandtoendure

tngs. DuringSaavedra s

ighlydelightedwith

fconversation, andhisine -

es.Theportfoliowas

eQueenmentionedthe

, andtheKing, re ferringa ll

ppointedtogoabroadwiththeSpanish

arnforeignlanguages,andthus qualify

ts.

atthereare lettersine istence

ncessofA sturias,tothejudgesin the

esinpendinglawsnits.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

onof theminister,began

astedtill bed-time.

enwiththatsuddenand

odoy senemieswerein-

,(a suspicion,however,

srealgoodnature,and his

sS aavedra,absolutelycon-

theportfoliotothe

Under-secretary.Urquijo s

gantmannersmadeadeep

en andtenthousand

tantnewsthene tmorn-

esired theyoungclerk

n,itismorethanpro-

afreshpiqueagainst

gustofhisroyalmistress,

Tudo,offeredher Ma-

fication.S henowcon-

Urquijo,not onlyherin-

tis generallybelieved,a

blefavourite.Butin

ueencanhardlyfinda

ujo sw astoodeeplyengaged

rs, toappearsensibleofher

n.Hemustered,however,a

trytosupportthe Q ueen

ngGodoyfrom the

fall influenceinmatters


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

attheQ ueen sresent-

ragainstthemanwho

ndthat hisdisgracewas

lconsequencesofdegra-

Manyandpowerfulcir-

wever,inGodoy sfavour

a lmostparenta lfondnesstowardshim

r se cessiveconceito fhisow n

essthan hisuttercon-

ourite € ” and, mostofa ll,

nguishedandeverreviv ingpas-

f drivingtoe tremities

nhis power,themeans

condemninghimself.

nistry , andthatinterva lo f

oy scapriciousgallan-

emiestomakethe first

isroyalmistresshadcon-

e Mallo,anativeof

cureGardedu Corps.

tyoungman,and the

dourwhichhe beganto

rceofhis advancementto

Godoyhimselfseemsto

usy,probablynotso

are intheQueen saf fec-

aledvanityof theman,

intoshadethewhole

gandQueen, attendedby

softhehousehold,were.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

he royalseatE lPardo,

ce,drivingfour beautiful

rilliantretinue.The

htby thebeautyof theequi-

homit belonged.Hear-

€ ” " I w o nd e r, h e s ai d , " h o w

k eepsuchhorses. â € ”

esty , repliedGodoy , " the

elfis keptbyanugly

teforgethername.

tyw asbutshort. His

fo lly , displeasedtheK ing,

Butinthefirst jfcourof

erallyhadtheweaknessof

owriting; andMallopos-

etters.Wishingtorid

vain fop,andyetdreading

yedGodoyintherecovery

o shousewassur-

edeadofnight andhe

preciousmanuscriptsinto

Thelatter,however,was

rva luetodeliverthemtothe

dtok eepthemasapow erful

mistress saffection,at

ficklenessandjealousy.

ndforgotten.

edraandJovellanos,had

iveprovinces; thefirst,

thesecond, f romthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

bledislike.Urquijo,whoseems

er- toga intheKing ses-

eQueen saf fection, could

anwhilethe latter sever

wasnotawakenedbythe

absenceof thefavour-

d,mighthavebeenpro-

dmanagementofthe

ujo , ifhisrashnessand

allowedhim tosuspect

er,wasequaltothatof

eadof stronglyop-

a lo f thePrinceof thePeace,

the ir majesties hands

ter,bornetohirr

maginedtheQ

thatheconceiveano

visitof hisoffended

earanceatCourt and

sruinbecameinevit-

urtofRomehadinduced

translationof- aPortu-

tortions-oftheItalian

sations" formarriage

ees.Thinkingthepub-

edbythat work,he

totheS panishbishops,

rancient rightsofdis-

medagainstits author

rgy ; andthePrinceof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N " .

oa larmtheKing scon-

pe snuncio,Cardinal

evethathisminister

asurewhich trespassed

manPontiff.Ibelieve

slikeofthe Inquisition

ofa dungeonwithinits

ever,sufficientgene-

ththe banishmentof

norderforhis impri-

wedhimthither inashort

ance, w hichmightraiseasuspi-

oyedhis personal

temptagainstthe re-

stronglysupportedby

doy sadministration,if

mplacablerevengewere

bleaview ofhisconduct.

esentedJovellanostothe

chiefactorin thefirst

him, orthathecharged

withingratitudefortak-

acyagainstthemanwho

Godoy-hadscarcelybeen

ence,whenhe procured

osin theCarthusian

nmanlinessofthisse-

blow,rousedtheindigna-

rtosilentadversary,call-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 17

ddignified infle ibility

ys,so fineaspecimen

cter. F romhisconf ine-

ertotheK ing, e posing

entintermssoremoved

panishmemorial,sore-

adversary,thatitkind-

fthefavourite,through

itmust makeitsway

pw asmore lik e ly toag-

essfor hiswrongs.The

s,andpleasingaddressof

pontheaffectionsof the

imwithmoredeference

eheightofhis power

odoy sspirito f revenge

senjoymentofthis

ss; andwithacruelty

ainon hischaracter,he

n thesameisland,where,

erateandrudegovernor,

communication,and

ofbooksforhismental

ofthegaolermaybe

his notbeingableto

olume.Jovellano s

elievehis solitudewitha

enumbercontained

uctions forhereckons

anda goodeditionof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

arstohima complete

vour,the Princeofthe

andconstantlygaining

esofhonourbeinge -

quateddignityofHigh-

dandconferreduponhim,

rtarshaveleftus with-

ents,andtheaddress

nne edtothisdignity . A

sedofpickedmenfrom

atelygivento theHigh-

onour.Hispower,infine,

ited,andhemaybe pro-

gSovere ignofSpa in.

eledelevationofthis

sheart sdesirein aperfect

tso femployment, e cept

clusivelydevoteseveryday

nisteroffinance,is em-

; andCaballero,inthe

pthemindueignoranceand

youasampleofeach of

ndprinciples. € ” Ithasbeen

V alladolidtomakethe

ttownasort ofbankfor

,asitwas doneinthe

milarcircumstancesof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ndinsecurityofproperty.

atthemonksheldin their

sit,declared" thatitwas

owsomuch moneyto

t, probably fortheQueen,

sformthemostpressing

eS panishbudget,gave

monks,whichthecredi-

se,ateightypercent,

ero, fearingtheprogressofa ll

urbthepeaceof the

a circularordertothe

estudyofmoralphiloso-

tw assa idintheorder, " w as

,but ofgoodandobe-

ofthis system,the

dofas muchmoneyand

andfindingitimprac-

riesof herc/ierami,has

rjealousyasto beable

amicabletermswith

veofvarietyinthemost

er.

emonstrousheapof

our Courthasunavoid-

ve.Much,indeed,

nnotomitanorigina land

which,asite plainsthe

otherw ise ine plicableblind-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

sconduct,justicerequires

orldshallseethathis

otarise fromanydisgrace-

enerallyconsideredby

our butthatthepeace

isgroundedonaphilo-

Idonotk now whetherphysica l

s, Ibe lieve, peculiartohimself .

authorityof

anecdote)wasonce,with

nceontheK ing,when

gossipinghumour,en-

conversationonthe fair

melength,on fickleness

tthe dangersofhus-

mates.Havinghadhis

bjectofjealousy,hecon-

mph € ” " We, crow ned

schiefadvantageabove

theycall it,issafe; for

asmuchbent onmischief

herecouldthey f indk ings

hfEh? "


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rivatelifeatMadrid,

rquitepeculiarto the

loverS painbythe

place-hunters.V erydif-

attachedtothesedeno-

ages.Y oungmenof

egularlysentto Courton

emendestinetheirsons

elaw,withoutcalcu-

tingthemthree orfour

and professedplace-

ith thee ception

hedral,andinsomecol-

btainedbyliterary com-

gleplaceofrankand

tinterestisnot the

enecessityforall who

dentfortune,inother

hirdsof theS panish

pital,theretoprocure


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

meanstheircircum-

dividedintofour

aspiretoanypreferment

lawyers,whowishto

chofjudgesinone ofour

pa inandS panishA me-

whodesiretobeemployed

venue andadvocates,

endbeyondaCorregiviiento

dership, w ithvery lim itedjudicial

every townofanynote

udiencia,orsuperiortri-

asttwoclassesin

barristers,andthesu-

es,thereis suchalineof

taninsuperablebarrier.

ngstudiedRomanlaw

hreeorfour yearsatan

mbers, is, a fterane amination

dtopleadat thecourtsof

nthis branchofthe

opesofrisingabovethat

fessiongiveshimin so-

ehimrich,buthe must

gforlife atthebarof a

heslighting andinsolent

consider themselvesat

es.It is,therefore,not


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

lawyers,whocannotcom-

eplacedon thebench,to

datesforaCorregimiento.

littlemoney,andpro-

mmendation,theyrepair

eenalmostdaily in.the

mwithapetition,anda

sitydegreesandliterary

ldeMeritos,which,after

nce,theythinkthem-

lencywilltakefromtheir

n anintroductionto

havethe righttoappoint

es,confinethemselvesto

morehumiliatingtask,

on.

igherbranchesof

akea moredecentap-

opefor success.Itis

rforthatdepartment,

inordertoobtain these

mmendationfromthe

eof thePeace,generally

he allowshimselfto

btainthefirst,ahand-

singaccomplishment,

arinthe S panishstyle,

eitherby engagingher

heaffectionsof someofher

Thenolesspowerful


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

nceofthePeaceis, I

notalwaysmadethe

redegradingservility.

ormerit,are,it istrue,

ributionofhis patronage:

eministerswhotremble

proachedbyeveryindivi-

utanintroduction,and

acivil,ifnot afavour-

ng,however,beingthe

so sureof.agraciousre-

arat hispubliclevees,

wifeorbloomingdaughter.

lloverthecountry,and

€ ” thenationa lcharacterisso far

eofthis profligategovern-

romeveryprovincefor

dby thefavourite.His

yweekacollectionof the

country,attendedby

suitthussupported

ga, orjudge sgown,

meindirectinfluenceof

onthatanadvocate € ”

sesatthebar € ” has, ina

elfforthebench,leaves

eopento ine perienced

akenadegreeinRoman

edthemselvesforashort


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 25

ctioners,are suddenly

tionof judges,eitherby

een smaidsofhonour, or

yonwhomthePrinceof

sientgleamoffavour.I

e tendedtothesister

who,beingpoor,andin

family,poorhimself,

obtainingaplace,en-

nginga judge sgow nfor

ctlycancircumstances

chsomemoralfeelingshave

ercertainformsandmodi-

emanI alludeto,as

ntosuchobjectionable

eofjusticeandimpartiality

hichhehasbeenplaced.

hatapersonwhodegrades

opromotion,givesafair

ncipleswhencalledto

publicoffice:the growing

osadandcleara proof

Governmentbecomes

toblockup withfilthand

wealth,power,andeven

o,inahappiercountry,

econtaminatedpath

eyventuredasingle step

onfirmedin theirdegra-

dof publiccensure


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

menttothecombinedin-

mple,andrecoverthemselves

vethethanksofthepeople

onof authorityfromthe

rthless.

mainingclassofPre-

relieffromthe contem-

eandcorruption,toac-

powerwho,unwarped

suniformlyemployed

ragementofmodestand

DonManuelS i to

amusician,whohaving

leasetheKingbyhis

hepiano,wasappointed

tothe RoyalF amily.

reatnaturalabilities,

estudyoffinanceand

hesofknowledgelittle

adbeengraduallyraised

influenceinthatdepart-

ntalentsmadethePrince

imasthef ittestmanto

rtheconsolidationof

a,asDirectorofthe

enaccusedof impietyby the

heirovergrownprivi-

suchasallowthemselvesto

hispers,fornot opposing

ndshe enablesGovern-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eneedlesstoanswer

e second,commoncan-

fairtoconfoundthe

hoseofatrusteeof the

ngupontheonlyre-

r,intheunfortunatecir-

y , it isanhonestman s

toaGovernmentwhose

ectinorderto pamperits

trinedoubtfulintheory , and

ctice , € ” E spinosahasqua-

whoknowhim,andeven

which,withoutraising

ofpublicvirtue,make

thepowerofvirtuous

nthemidstof everyal-

whichprofligacy,armed

mploy.Inaccessibleto

asuniformlybeene -

edmerit.A manuscript

nomy,writtenbyafriendless

toE spinosa,wasenough

uableappointment.A

omofreceiving presents,

sto- havebecomeamatter

herforjusticeor favour

nacommercialtrans-

lions,betweenthis

ntilehouseinLondon


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

on,E spinosasentbacka

ofthe partnershad

e,hewould havere-

ude.Hisprivateconduct

annersperfectlyfreefrom

e, w hichhemightassume

whichhehasbeenraised.

andliving inthemodest,

ecomestheiroriginalrank,

everyS unday , (theonlyday

ntofrest) andtreated

nddeference.A lways

portment,itisonthese

uiteto forgethishonours,

e timewhenhelooked

mthosetwo,now,help-

donlythere,thatI once

seversince possessedmy

olongonthesubject

ntoyou,I trustyou

fthemotiveswhich

esofmenin power.

eachtheear ofhimthey

meansto servetheeulo-

gsight ofthisinfamous

gto thefewobjects

ssofvirtue:andhaving

ingpicture inwhichI

zedtheopportunityof

whichmysubjectmight


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

asurein vilifyingmy

of honourhasdied

ensthatingoing

hedifferentclasses of

rtedtheorderwhichthey

othatI stillfindmyself

huntersuponmyhands.

e,are,bythe decencies

ledtotakequitea dif-

readydescribed for

pectsnothingfromthe

andLove,accustomed,at

andembroidery,is,

pproachoftheir black

msoftheir enormous

theearlypartofthe

mdisposedofhispatronage

vy Council.The

eivedthepetitionsof

niedbydocumentalproofs

tions,andreported

ughtheMinisterof the

wastheestablishedprac-

oherselfthepatronageof

editwith herfavourite.

unsellorswere,accord-

heClericalPretendientes.

meof theCamaristas


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ndispensableprovision

andnoWestIndianslave

thenod ofhismaster,as

ehumoursof thewhole

lor,whereeachhadthe

sa constantvisiter.

themorningrelieving

ehouse; w ho, fromthe

judgesarepromotedtoa

ouncil, a rethemselvesof the

ca l andtherehew assure

makingoneatthegame

herladyshipwouldbe

ythanifshe hadmissed

tianbondagetheclerical

orfour yearsofhislife,

ndabletoobtainfor him

hreec andidatespresented

ncy,whenthehappy man

cathedral,therequietly

tienceandperseve-

at present,morein-

wa fewwhohave

enceofhavingassisted

pens.S uchisthecase

rkagainsttheprivileges

as thepreludetothe

rs underthePrinceofthe

rnedsycophantwhohas

alCathechism,inimitation


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 31

oleonafterhisaccessionto

ttingforththedivineright

passiveobedience.But

esus,is toopampered

heassistanceofpensioned

odwhenthe Princeof

ee hisnameinverse;

showeredsoprofusely

the hasgrowninsensi-

es.He,nowandthen,

lc ourtiers,withare-

ster,whichamountstoa

msrathershyofmeddling

t istheQ ueenwho

onofthe keysofthe

sintothe handsofher

ber,allowinghertolevy

dmittancetothe snug

nt.Ido notreportfrom

respectableS eville

nownallmylife,having

uaintedwithaperson

ththestateoftheCourt,

nofthesecretsprings

atonceto aprebendal

owntown.Theyoung

buta handsomeperson,

fwhich,however,his

nhisownhands.

rtwoyearsincomeof

ket-pricethenfi ed


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

bedchamber andthough

her,wasnotunwilling

identlytotheadvantage

methingaboutsimony,

ogetherw ithhisnatura lre-

ullion,gavehimsuch

reatenedtoquashthe

elatterpossessedbuta

ng,butwas noteasily

and, know ingtoow ellthe

y,proposedaconsultation

norderto taketheir

sof thetransaction.The

tappearedthat,since

e purchaseofspiritual

nteresto f theQueen s

ordlyandtemporal,it

oughtforthesum at

ungman,furnished

asa shorttimeago

ueen sfemalefavourite.

ngpartiesfora short

ertrouble,beenpre-

atS eville.

entes life,especially

rviewsinthe church,have

ewithamusingscenes.

mprecation € ” " Mayyoube

diente cannotbefeltin its

kemyself,havelivedon


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eofthat unfortunate

ofmoneyfromtheirfami-

cha youngman,inpur-

mustdrawforsubsistence,

yeartotheSil ios, in

forthecourt-dresswhich

ostdaily ; andtheturnsof

hisladypatroness.

nglishmanformofour

wasto enteroneofthe

uez,forinstance,andfinda

dedbyapartments,each

odgers,withthreeorfour

manychairs forallfur-

arty blackinghisshoes

tockings; athirdbrush-

ow earattheminister s

esstil l inbed, resting, as

stnight sba ll A shack -

neitherat Madridorthe

gbothpitiableand ludi-

thesejudges,intendants,

sallyingforthinfull

toilet,to picktheirway

stinganan iouslookon

hich,artfullyattachedtothe

ghtbysomeuntowardacci-

ddiscolouredshirt which

ustheytrudgeto thepalace,

alleriesforhours,tillthey


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

abowto theminis-

sonage,onwhomtheir

formedthisimportant

averyscantydinner,

uldput themintheway

ernoontheymustmake

blic walk,wherethe

ng afterwhich,the

danceattheTertuliaof

fortunateenoughto

payher thisdailytri-

dtheSit ios, independent

fewweeks,findamuse-

the scene.TheCourt

odull,stiff,and formal,to

dence.Theonlygood

istobefound among

heK ing,whollyoccu-

ueeninherboudoir,

versetothetheatres.Two

estillallowedtobe open

erahasbeendiscontinued

ecauseitwasa dailyren-

ses.S ojealousisthe

semblies,thatthegrandees

re thanfourorfivein-

andscarce lyaba ll is

rse-oftheyear.This,

tedwithoutaskingthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 35

TheMarchionessofS antiago,

renumerous,andattended

accomplishedpeoplein

e since,obliged,byan

throughthepolice,to

nds.

enforbidden,andthe

opolisofS painhave

ofamusementthancol-

ee tensivewalkcalled

ngedawaythemorning

din thesun,duringthe

o l, a large space, a lmost

ngs.Thecoffee-rooms

owdedforaboutanhour

e tofourinthe afternoon,

eevening; butthenoise ,

s, maketheseplacesas

anytap-roominL ondon.

pectanykindof rationa l

s.Themostinteresting

oided,forfear ofthe

liceandthe Inquisition,

all publicplaces.Hence

egradesourintercourse

bantering.

tyi sthehouseof

na,ayounglawyer,

ectreading,andvarious

ongthefirstofour men


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ndnessof hisheart, andthe

plesofhisconduct,

endandmostagreeable

eningwalkinthe Prado,

n sstudy,wherefouror

and opinions,meetto

onwhateversubjectsare

plesofQ uintanaand

arootedhatredof thee -

dislike oftheprevailing

EmpererovertheSpanish

yfriendsthatan at-

yMagazineoriginated,

val atMadrid.But

hecountryonevery-

suchthe trammelsin

theinventionofthe

nofthe Miscelaneawas

ew,besides,asour

er,theyhavesplitinto

chotherwiththe wea-

omicw riters € ” aman

efromtheprejudices of

ies,and e tremeservi-

esofthedrama,might have

cidedsuperiorityoverthe

,notwithstandingthetram-

shistalents, hasgivenus


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

elegance,theliveliness,and

ialogue,aswellasthe

est,andcomic powerof

,in myopinion,tothe

eF rench, ortheEnglish

say , maybeconsideredasthe

iterarypartiesofthis

stheleaderof theother.

erarysubjectsis not,

sdivision.Moratinand

efavourof thePrinceof

nahasneveraddresseda

cit reproach,embit-

hersrathertooe plicit,

ntparty,haskindleda

Courtliterati, which,

eparation,breaksoutin

appearanceof anycom-

uintana.

where Icannotavoid

fliterature,thoughfrom

as wellasthelimitsto

nethem,itwasmyin-

ence.I shallnot,how-

tionsonso e tensivea

ithmakingyouac-

hichformthescanty

MoratinandQ uintana.

merhaspublishedany


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thathehas,asyet,

o thepublic.Icon-

e Inquisitorialcensures

y.Therehas,indeed,

,LaMogigata,orF emale

wedtobeacted,it being

atronageof thePrinceof

forehave beenplacedin

asmallcollectionof short

classeshimamongthose

lowedtogive aspecimen

s thewasteofta-

vesystemof govern-

zedE urope.Hehas

ofhisbookwithan em-

eawingedhumanfigure

esholdofagloomyGothic

Templeof theMuses

despondency.Ishould

flingcircumstance,

thepervadingfeeling

gmindamongusis

er.

hicstructureofour

chconfinesthepoetic

(ifI mayventuresome

difficultandnot yetfairly

e ibil ity intheS panish

greatlengthof most


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

etyofitsterminations,

verbs,whichmustfor

Thesoundofourbest

cindeed ; butitrequires

ueandmodifythat

earandsatisfythemind.

the Italianmeasures

tthe beginningofthe

estpoetshavebeenservile

hewritersof thatschool.

as, l ikethek nightofLa

ndendutyto bedes-

othhis subjectand

tedissectionof his

meantime,con-

mtheune ampledslavery

yedalmoste clusivelyin

courseof life,hashadits

edandsoiled,bythepow-

ssociation.S carcelyone

arycanbeusedin digni-

ntylist ofwordscomposes

trycanuse withoutpro-

sgustorridicule.In

intana spoetica lcomposi-

oughtandreal feeling

edrevolutioninpoliticsallow

houtwhichthemost vi-

onsickenand perish,his

wellinspirehiscountry-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N " .

sinterestedlove-of

othe amiablenessof

mostpopularityin

yer,who,havingfor

rofpolite literature

edbythePrinceofthe Peace

Castile,and,notlong

erresidence,wherehe

dezis amanofgreat

bymorereadingandin-

lyfoundamongourmen

poet,however,wasat

htanddoubtfulfoundation

ontics,andafewlove-poems,

tthanan harmoniouslan-

ntsimplicity.Melendez,

ectedwith themawkish

Gessner andhadhenot

rsubjectsthan hisDove,

progressinthenational

ebeensufficienttocon-

etoilettesofourtown

owever,inhismaturer

des tohispastorals,

reatmasterof S panish

tinboldnessand origi-

bovethe degreeofa

be attributedtothatwant

wings ofthoughtin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

heabsenceof realgenius.

ezisemployedinatrans-

live tocompleteit,I

nourtoourcountry.

kentheS panishMuse,

e lastfiftyyears,none

htowardsheremancipa-

,andcumbrousstylein

ur Petrarchistsofthe

anava lo f f icernamedA r-

mandoflanguage,and

pportedbyanydepthof

dge,ortheleastdegree

aniardsw ouldhaveanori-

o teare inthepoetical

e completelysilent

eloquence.Y earspass

tionof anyoriginal

sfromtheF rench,with

alltheMadridGazette

eof advertisements.

dEl V iageroUniversa l, and

sGrammarofGeography,

bothof literaryindustry

e.

cademies € ” oneforthe

nishLanguage,theother

ationalHistory.Weowe

ddictionary,witha very

elatter somevaluabledis-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





fA I N .

egeographicalandhis-

panishA cademycon-

andcalled intheaidof

up thelistofmembers

avemadeit ridiculous;

houtgreatdifficulty,

splendiddisplayof one

rnlanguages; andthe

ge wouldhavebeenap-

tselements.ThatA ca-

meofprize essaysand

yfeeblecompetition,in

argelyofthe servilityof

lreadyalluded,andthe

affected.Our style,in

nsettledâ€ f luctuating

osityofouroldwriters,

epigrammaticconcise-

nchwriters,strippedoftheir

slong,however,aswe

dsilencein whichthe

nturies,there islittle

ndardof tasteforS panish

bablyourbestlivingphi-

sistsupon ourborrow-

fromthe authorsofthe

goldenage(asit isca lled)

theMadridtranslatorsseem

panishlanguageadialect

asorto fPato is, uninte ll ig ibleto

hcertainlylies between


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ur languagehasbeen

orobsolete.Thelan-

mentalprogressofE u-

vehiclesandinstruments

ar behindinthepowers

n; andtherichtreasure

ie buriedsolong,must

d,beforeitcan berecog-

It isneitherbyreject-

pressionscannotbefound

ustriandynasty,norby

Gallicisms,thatwe can

urpresentwantsandfashions.

kforourselvesinour own

nk, Isay , ande pressourthoughts

precision; nottoimitate

ptyperiodswhichgene-

eoldS panishwriters.

opesteryouwitha

sthepresentstate of

uldrequirea distinctseries

esofitsdecay,to relate

red,and toweighthe

has,underthe deadening

utedespotism,arestill

moulderingfire,which,

have longsincebeene -

sethisshortdigression, in

esume theusua lgossip


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

oumustbew iththeevents

onths,havefi edtheeyes

,it cangiveyoulittle

againfrommynative

timetowitnessthe

efeatofDupont sarmy,

erthistown.Theair re-

,andthedeafeningclan-

announcesthearrival of

tanos,who,moresur-

sarmsthananyone of

vedto givethanksto

inand, andtoreposeafew

elancholyinthewild

ningconfidence,andmad

istown.Lulled intoa

stantdeathtoany who

awordofcaution,both

ookonthepresentwar


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ow; andwhiletheyspend,

ms,thefavourablemo-

vanceonMadrid,their

rignoranceofthe means

theenemy,inducethem

tionofthecapitulation

charmyintheirpower.

esagreedupon entitle

wncountry,are,bythe

tobec onfinedinhulks,

l Dupontistheonly

ingtreatedwithadegree

hich,wereit notforthe

gdestructionuponthe

edasaferetreatinto F rance.

gedina Dominican

anumerousguardof

hisprivatearrival,the

incrowds,andconse-

alweredreaded.S everal

wereearlyto paythe

chieflyonePadreGil,

whoseinfluenceoverthe

nded cameforw ard, desir-

se.Whethertruth and

rcedoutasecret,known

hetheritw asanartif iceof

seccentricitiesandmoun-

0 .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

wedthepraiseof bold-

gthemurdersof which

heassertedinhisspeech,

e indebtedtoDupontthan

Thesewords,uttered

usemphasis,hadthe de-

nchgeneralhasnowonly

chmayawaithim in

ofhisdefeatand surrender.

tedwiththeonlycir-

t importantevent,which

likelytomention,I

€ ” asubjecttow hichI

ersion € ” andbeginmyac-

fobservationinwhich

ethefirstapproachofthe

cedme.

fimpendingconvul-

erdinand,thenPrinceof

father.Myinseparable

beenforsometimeac-

fthePrince ofthePeace,

addictedtomusic, had

teurparties.Onthe

erweweresurprisedbya

,requestingmyfriendto

withoutdelay,onbusiness

wewalkedtothe Puerta

horsechaise,called Caleza,

sarrestw asw hisperedtous,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

mwemetatthat winter

ngers.Weconsulted

pediencyofventuring

henhisMajestyw assoper-

butcuriosityandacertain

d,andwesetoffat a

a l.

building bearingthat

estinthatpartof Castille.

dationof theK ing ssuite

rt distancefromthemo-

yalfamilydividewith

ofHieronymites,towhom

of thatmagnificent

wingtheCourton

kelodgingsin theneigh-

tedwiththemostwretch-

wefoundourfriend,

militarytutortothe

ssons, mightw ellhavee -

turefor suchasare

mostmiserablepot-house.

w asacceptedasane -

we wereeachaccommo-

uicklysetup inthetwo

onel ssitting-room.The

chhadoccasionedour

a secret.Theclergy-

heclassicalstudiesofthe

ePaula,wassuspectedof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ofA sturiasinthesecret

,whichhadproducedthe

family.S houldthe

ichthe tutorhadpre-

ueen, failto re-establish

myfriendwouldbepro-

nter withoutdelayupon

wholebusinesswas

eof thene tday . The

morationoftheDeparted,

wew ishedtov isitthechurch

.Ontakingleaveof

usnotto approachthat

he Princewasconfined

apartments.

isittotheE scu-

adjust beenmadeto

rtanta naturetoleave

e solemngrandeurofthe

directing oursteps,and

hesurroundingscene.

hemembersoftheroyal

adsplitinto twoirrecon-

reckonedamongthe

nt,was,atonce, to

mostdangerousvorte of

etthreatenedto over-

inetheolfer,whenthe

all probabilityreceivedthe

hePeace,wastoincur


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

adarbitrarypowerin

arddilemma,ourmost

acquittalofthe tutor,

obable,consideringthe

tgravepersonage,and

ngreleaseofthePrince,

mtheColonel.We

rtourthoughtsfromthe

templatingtheobjects

hinthecircuit ofits

heKing spa lace, themo-

tchurch,andthePan-

ultofbeautifulmarble,

sarcophagi,forthere-

ingsandthe irfamilies. It

ggedmountain,inthe

fromN ewCastille,and

smassofrock,which

materials.It wasthe

newhereit wastobe

gloomytyrant,PhilipII.,

preferencetoothers,

esse posedtothefuryof

withincredible vio-

eshelterfromthe blast,

edandlighted,wascon-

the palacetothe

uilding thebleakand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

hichit standsmorein

ew ildande tensiveglen

ithwoodsofrugged,

surroundedbybrushwood;

ichthe eveningtwilight

nery,increasedtothe

ngmannersofascanty

thealternateaweofthe

diatelords,themonks,

nedby thebreathlesse pectation

ftheheirapparenthad

ooksofthe fewattend-

royalfamilyon thisoc-

tha vaguefeelingofinsecu-

iculttoe pressorana-

urse lvesandthemonk s,

withlightedtapersin their

rgestothememoryof

rs,wastobeseen within

e.Thevaultsre-echoed

orus ofdeepvoiceshad

centsof theoldpriest

ony.Toskulkin the

dsuspicion,andtocome

nks tapers,wasthesure

undedcuriosity.We

theclo istersne ttothe

acquaintedwiththe

dintricatelabyrinth

entstoastranger,the fear


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

round,orof being

ducedustoretireto our

rhost,we ventured

ply tothemonk, w hoacts,

eroneofthemonastery,

ositiesitcontains.He

agnificentandvaluable

oneoftherichest E uro-

manuscripts € ” atreasure ,

osemountains,andunder

overnmentandasetof

ybesaidtobe hidinthe

t-ratepicturesat the

andthew allsmaybesaidto

hasonly tolounge

ersofthe Monastery,to

ppetiteforthe beautiesof

hotooknopleasurein

dfor theten-thousandth

ectionofrelics,in which

failingdelight.Iwill

sespiritualtreasures.

mthreeto fourfeetin

atebreadth,atthe en-

cannotomitthatwe

eof theinnocentsmas-

ecoagulatedmilkof the

astuponus hisdark,

hibitedthesetwomost


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N - .

butthea irof theE scuria lhasa

andfi themusclesof

ameroomwhichcon-

bo o fablack shining

ewholelidofwhichis

hthewards ofamost

tohavecontainedthe

heunfortunateDonCar-

her,PhilipII., made

sonment,andprobablyfor

supposedtohaveended

ectionof theMo-

srelievedbythewelcome

e stutorhadbeenfully

sturias,weweretold

ingthenamesofhis

asedfromconfinement.

sof thedangerwhich,

,hadhungoverhis

rejoiceinwhatmany

ent.Hehadprobably

hambition but,ifso,

operceivethatshe had

aprecipice.

ad,againsthiscustom,

theE scurialseason,

mputationofpromoting

eroyalfamily.S ome-

dridof adismemberment


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

naparte,inconsequence

in anindependentso-

inallywhisperedabout

r,wascompletelyhushed

,insteadofthebuoyancy

t ofacrownwaslikely

e,careandan ietywere

wordsandmotions.He

nghisweeklylevees

swerepouringintothe

vouredtoconcealhis

gtheirmovements.

nchhadtakenalmostvio-

our fortresses,andwere

withMuratat their

roomfor dissimulation.

Godoy sleveesbutthe

endidassembly,opento

appearedina decent

yhappenedtotakeme to

Heappeared,asusual,

gsaloonor gallery,sur-

teof officers,andad-

ecompany,whohadmade

de. Suchasw ishedto

standinfront,whilethose

tenttopayfor their

tpurposelybehind.

egroup,ofwhich I


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ble figures,andbowingaf-

aid,in aloudvoice," Gen-

ancefastuponus w emust

reisabundanceofbad

w asnow ev identthatNa-

askunderwhichhewas

hasheardthis speechhad

fIzquierdo,Godoy s

hadat onceundeceived

hmeandve ationatthe

hadbeenadupe.

eginningofMarch.

otheir springresidence

ceof thePeacejoinedthe

visiblegloomhad,by

arisingchieflyfroma

d-bythe K ingand

ampleof thePortuguese

sapetoMe ico . F ew

weredisposed,fromlove

determination.But

os-wouldsinkintoinsig-

obe removedtoadis-

emostwretchedGo-

pendentswithconster-

eredguardswithwhichthe

hadsurroundedthethrone,

elled,bytheabsenceof

tof thearmy.The


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 55

ut ofS pain,withthe

ourhundredmiles,was

acticable.

amilyhad,with all

edforthe1 thofMarch.

takenbyF erdinand s

anceofpreparationsfor

ntentionsof theK ing,

urite . Numbersof the

ranjuezfromvillagesata

andtheS panishfoot-guards,

e-guardsengagedtosup-

termidnight,beforethe

asmadeby thepopulaceon

thePeace,who,leaping

ytimetoescapetheknives

eddisappointment,

eetsclearly shewed

em.A sthedoorswere

btremainedofhisbeing

ftertheslightsearch which

light,itwasdetermined

heapproachingday.

he royalpalace,where

ongwhompolicyhadranged

eministerswhoowed

ntheKing sterror, and

ty tosavethe lifebfherlover, the

erdinandonthethrone.

ringleaderstobeginthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ePrince ofthePeace;

esenceonthespotren-

table.Itdoeshonour,

andhumanecharacter

aythinkofhisother

thecrownfrom eager-

sf riend. TheKing sab-

hemultitude,withwhom

en anddecidedpart,

donhorsebacktofulfilthe

tohisparentsof protect-

ssassins.Theunfortu-

mentofmorethan twelve

atticsofhis house,where

yanyclothing, andin

drink,was,if Imaycre-

rstto begtheassist-

ayedhim tohispursuers.

gonthe spot,avictim

emies € ” w hetherthede-

tuponhima publicand

ebetterfeelings,ofsuch

, surroundedhisperson € ”

w ouldIdeprivethe

aimtogenuinehumanity

onmayhavegivenhim.

at,underhis escort

erto theHorse-guard

ithoutreceivingsome

,inflictedbysuch as


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

of fleshingtheirknives

whoursbefore,they

olookboldlyin the

at A ranjuezhad

bythe eveningofthe

tooev identthatastormw as

estrelationsofGodoy.

on,whena furiousmob

Diego,the favourite s

lespacewhichthemag-

eavesatitsopeningi nto

useforms acorner,af-

e operationsoftheriot-

spectators,ofwhomI

ehavingbeenbroken

hewholeofthe richfur-

wnout atthewindows.

verydoors, andf i turesofall

enormouspilewith

ofdrawers,andpianos,

,butforthestillness of

preadtothe unoffending

njoyedthissplendidand

gedthemselvesina kind

torches,takenfromthe

pswhicharefoundatMa-

rstepstothehouseof the

oy sbrother-in-law.

r,hadbythistimefi ed


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

o f thatand{ Godoy s

hatthepropertyboth

arrelationshadbeen

ing.Thiswassufficient

theremainingobjects

utanyfarthermischief,

spendingthewholenight

utlighted torches,and

ofthewine-retailers,whose

s,arethecommonre-

didnotceasewith the

ndwomenparadedthe

cries of" Longlive

” D e at h t o Go d oy " T h e w h ol e

uredout oftheirbar-

earingpitchersof wine

ocessionwasseenabout

on,wherethesoldiers,

bore intheirf ire lock sthe

aprotectionagainstlight-

atthewindows.Y et,

r,noinsult wasofferedto

higherclasses, who

othing,however,ap-

tothepopulaceofMa-

mpillage atthehouse

everyarticle, how everva luable,

otheflames.

duringtheseevents,at

d.Theplan ofputting


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 35

d beenfrustratedby

A ranjuez, andtheune -

inand. B utthenew K ing,

asteningbyprofessions

upportofF renchpower,

panishcapital,thereto

ghtbe mostconducive

gn.Isawtheentrance

makethetowntheir

cupiedtheenvirons,

famile,andsomein

TheF renchenteredas

ythatthe inhabitants

n,theleastsymptomsof

elingwhichmightbe

asamostan iouse pecta-

ainstancesofF renchso l-

onpeople andhad

rdinandV II.,hewithhis

iledandtreatedas bro-

eenbut afewdays

ndleftA ranjuezforhis

bitedthemagnificent

Peace,withinavery

palace.F romthencehe

ing shopesofaspeedy re-

ror, e cusinghimself , a tthe

noticeofF erdinand s

therbyhimselforhis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

displaybutthat ofthe

efromthemultitude,

k,andattendedbyafew

teofA tocha.Ihad

rance,andhada full

dbythe peopleonfoot,

beautifulwalkc alled

monarchmeetw ithamore

comefromhissubjects;

olda morevacantand

evenamongthelongfaces

s.Tofeaturesnotatall

nessorawkwardnesshad

utforthe motionof

spicion thatwewere

w a f igure .

rast,Murat,whose

backwasshewntothe

ressalmosttheatrical,ap-

orninginthePrado,sur-

d-de-camps,noless

etoreviewthepicked

bersofpeoplewere

ngmagnificenceofthis

ealousyanddistrustwere

enseand doubtwhich

renchPrincehadbeen

onagainsttheF rench

rencein favourofthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

opleof Madridwere

ecutionofGodoy , that

manonwhosehanging

ctedtofeasttheireyes,was

domundera F rench

murmursfromall quartersof

tterresentmentofdisap-

evertheless,stillinthe

vekeptthewholenationat

elong-e pectedrecogni-

enw hen, throughtheun-

alreadyknowntothe

endecoyedtoBayonne,

ypreva iledatMadridasto

witnessedthejoyofan

tedatthePuertadelS ol,

probablywitha viewto

wasspreadthat thecou-

ught theintelligenceof

dgementof theyoungK ing,

dopthimby marriageinto

owever,couldnotbe

andtheplanofusurpation,

tmorning,producedthe

evitablecatastrophe.

edestructionof the

dwerecanvassedalmostin

reserve.N othingin-

sourpresentignoranceas

of regulartroops,asthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

tedinthe capitalforan

ps,whichstillparaded

nthePrado.S hortpikes,

gcrescent,weree -

thespectators,whoused

dthecavalry.A tone

behoughedwiththese

tryattackedwithpo-

ainstsuchabsurdand

ontheir advocatesagainst

ostileviews,which,of

efeatthe ablestconspi-

ess,butdangerous.The

y,andMurat,whowas

s,beganto shewhisin-

stance.

towardstheendofA pril,

endinthee tensivegar-

ceE lRetiro,(which,

e theusualresortof

wdedwalk,)thesoundof

mseveralquartersof the

trepidation,totheinner

roughwhich layour

confusedvoicesof

cries ofthewomen,to-

F renchregiments

ndintheact ofloading

placedusin theawkward

reout,ortostay, we


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 03

solitarygardens had

omIaddressed,assuredus

tofthetroopswithout

hichwehadleft

snowperfectlyempty,

se-patro lesof theF rench

erentdirections.A swe

ntreofthetown,wewere

ensimultaneousandge-

cavalryhadbeenscouring

wantonnessofmilitary

admadeacut nowand

ast enoughbeforethem.

ntrarytotheusualprac-

of night,andbut

seentalkingaboutthe

larm.A mongthesewe

t throughbythe

on. Noonecoulde ither

of thisa f f ray butIam

ntendedjust tostrike

discouragelargemeet-

wasapreludeto the

hatdayw hichhasheapedthe

dontheheadwhichcould

eartthatcouldcarry

thoutshrinking.

ondof Maydidnot

planof theSpaniards; it

ghtaboutbyMurat,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thecountry,artfully

ducingane plosion

ng sbrotherandoneof

atMadrid,were,on

nne.Thesightofthe

amilyleavingthe coun-

mstances,couldnot

tionon apeoplewhose

thsbeenrackedto dis-

gencystronglyre-

sdepartureinthenight

settingoffatnine

orethathourane ten-

ewPalace formsthe

opleofthelower

earingin theirtra-

andwomensurrounded

hetraces, shewedade-

irdeparture.Oneof

resentinghimselfatthis

saultedbythemob,and

m totheirfurybut for

stationednearthatgene-

wasinstantlydrawnup,

people.

m thePalace,ina

ecentralpointsofcom-

artof thetown.A rush

ms, conveyedtousthe

heardthatthe F rench


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

people buttheoutrage

politic andenormous,

went outtoascertain

datan openingnamed

ngo,themeetingpointof

hich leadstothePalace,

fa F renchdruminthat

considerablenumberof

homcuriositykeptrivet-

strongpiquetofinfan-

nus,we couldnotima-

kindofdanger.Under

waitedtheirapproach;

tand preparetheirarms,

erse.A dischargeof

moments,andaman

street,throughwhichI

treatingfromthe fire.

temassacrearoseso na-

edassault,thateveryone

henarrowcrossstreets

hastenedontowards

tthefront door,could

ient,intheconfusedstate

ball-cartridgesfora

Thefiringof musketry

eardin differentdirec-

fewminutes,thereport

,at ashortdistance,

m.Theywerefiredfrom


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA T N .

greatneglect,andwith

tbythe S panishGovern-

wn.Murat,whohad

erarms, onf i ingthe

o gainpossession,had

tillery.A strongcolumn

eetfacing thegate,at

veofmytown,and my

appenedtobethesenior

twolarge piecesloaded

edtoperishratherthan

upportedin hisdeter-

men,andsomeinfantry

arde,anotherpatriot

erablehavockamongthe

dbynumbers,boththese

ountryfell,the latter

elywounded.Thesilence

ectthattheartilleryhad

eassailants; andthere-

firmedthatconjecture.

inthe meantime,gone

dlyon themaleinha-

epdtofarms.But he

tpart ofthetown.To

deat thismomentwas,

ness.S oonafterthe

oor threecolumnsof

ntgates,makingthem-

.Therouteof themain


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

Mayor,wherethe

rfive stories,afforded

ofwreakingtheirven-

withoutmuchdangerfrom

uns,fired fromthewin-

s,andheavyarticlesof fur-

ersuponthe headsof

renchhadoccupied

theirartilleryhadstruck

ltitude someofthe

adbeenfiredat, had

rs; andthecavalrywere

uchashadnot early

oplehad puttodeath

owasfoundunarmedabout

wouldhavebeenfearful,

panishmagistratesob-

y,whichtheyread inthe

town.

ot accomplishedhis

plewasmadeonacerta in

sof citizens.A sthe

hatshouldbefound bearing

esofcavalry,whichwere

hedeverymantheymet,

eswhichour artisansand

tocarryin theirpockets,

andw ickedpurpose, led

be triedbyaCourt

tobe butcheredincold


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

eblackest,perhaps,

renchnameduringtheir

wasperformedatthefall

o fF renchoff icershav ing

ofnote wasamongthe

themtobeled outofthe

hortconfinement,into

weredespatchedbythe

ofthetown,andhear-

ased,Iventuredoutin

PuertadelS ol,whereI

particularsofthe day.The

thatplacewereunusu-

metotheentranceofone

intothat greatrendez-

ncreased,andI could

renchsoldiersformed

t,andleavingaboutone-

osuchaswishedto pass

stancebehindthem,in

bearsthe nameofthe

uishedtwopiecesofcannon,

f troops.Lessthan

avebeensufficientto

possessedwiththeidea

tof theF renchtotreat

likemanyotherswho

ughtthat thepeaceful

edtoproceedunmo-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

thetown.Underthis

uthesitation,till Iwas

ancedguard.Here a

es,raisedinthesquare,was

foreme theofficergiving

dy.Thepeoplefledup

nsternation; butmyfear

tly,tocalculateboth

dea desperatepush

ythe soldiers,wherea

dtheChurchofS anLuis,

utoftherange ofthe

inghoweverbeingheard,

tofthealarmwasto clear

chofnight.

e inhabitants,asthey

etailsofthemorning,

thatend,withoutany

ftheoppressors.The

ctimsseeninseveral

hatweremetaboutthe

uishofsuch asmissedtheir

adingreportthatmanywere

etiro,so stronglyand

ensionsofthepeople,

utelydesertedlongbe-

verystreet-doorwas

nceprevailedwherever

ofthemostgloomyideas,

ngsbya placecalled


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

w henIsaw fourSpanish

na ladder,theendsof

eirshoulders.A sthey

rbeinginclined forward,

treet,I recognizedthe

andacquaintance,Daoiz,

th.Hehadlain wounded

ntheplacewherehe

nsiblewhenImethim.

dy,andthegroanhe

the ground,probably,

erbe effacedfrommy

chimpressions,baffles

ption.A sceneofcruelty

galllimitsofprobability,

storangeat large,with

ecalculationsof judg-

he streetssincethe

ybrokenby thetramp-

d thenwereheard

es,had somethinge -

oustown,wherewewere

ntandenliveningbustle.

stand mostvariedin

ryne tmorning andit

asinglestreet-doorhad

absolutenecessitycould

reout.

massacre,anotefrom


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

meto crossthegreatest

houghmywaylaythrough

rid,the numberofS pa-

a llyamounttosi . In

anynote Ifoundastrong

,lyingbesidetheirarms

ptthesentinel,whopacedup r

nce.A feelingofmorti-

iththesenseof insecurity

myapproachingthesepar-

osepresencehadmadea

g bytheopposite

dthemwithoutliftingmy

eI lookedstraightin

er € ” aserjeantIbe lieve,

egionaV honneur € ” w ho,

edmewithcurses,ac-

dthemostabusivelan-

ol,thatfavouritelounge

owthe bivouacofa

ryandcavalry,withtwo

veryleadingstreet.N ot

avoiceheardbutsuch as

gnaccent.

ng ofdeepmelan-

to whichthetroublesof

hanafeatherinthe scale

confinedmyselfto the

reyto themostharassing

akein thepresentcrisis,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

wasnotprepared,and

cturecouldleadme.My

sakealoneI hadchang-

ortalaversiontoS ev il le € ”

ot avoidactingina de-

mew ildv isionsof f reedom

adbeenplaying across

eF renchapproached

owlookedon theircon-

abhorrence,still he

selftoescapefromthe

heseemedtodreadless

longonapainful

i l le cusemeif Iputo ff

etter.

gyman.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

spectthathis cruel

capitalwouldrousethe

nce,orwhether(with

sewhichoftenattendsa

fromimpulsethanjudg-

theimpressionswhich

etupontheS paniards; he

othe restorationofconfi-

,ofsuchanendeavour,

alarmandindignation

verthecountry,)every

astrongguardofF rench

videnttoanyonebut

irectedit.The people,it

lyoutof thehouses:

eserted,and thethea-

theinvaders.

eF renchhadaparty ,

mbers,containedsome

wofthemost respectable


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

mlybelieve,thathad

middleandhigher classes

albroughtupinthe

n publicmeasures,and

sstoformand e press

ew F renchDynastyw ouldhave

ajorityamongourgentry.

dsoftheabovedescrip-

Government,whichthey

rvebyadherencetothe

shouldconsiderthe impres-

ears hadleftonthethink-

nity.Underthemostpro-

rtinE urope,asenseof

eenproducedamong

sw erenotblindedbya

t.Thetruesource ofthe

edontheaccessionof

heremovalo fhisfather for

ent,underayoung Prince

tedonan arbitrarythrone,

sionaryindeed.A sforthe

rance,whichwouldfollow

osephBonaparte,itcould

plessthanunderF erdi-

familyalliancebeen

cannotbedeniedthat

ntwehavee perienced

orevenge butpassion

kingmenwillseldom


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

.Todeclarewar against

yinthe heartofS pain,

sublimepatriotism; but

tionmorelikelytobring

yonthecountry,than

ing,who,thougha

ucatedadespot,andwho,

nalclaims,wouldbe an-

tsontheacknowledgment

mightbegiventothese

thatIw asfarf romallowingthem

canclearlyprove,by

ofA ndalusia.ButI

eadlong,unhesitating

ormlydisplayedin this

a loudpopularcrywhichevery

wellwithhiswhole

tmaye pressthefeel-

esnotdeservethename

thanthe unanimousac-

aF e. Dissentisthegreat

m,indeed,as willing

blea idtotheS panish

butIfee lindignantatthe

smyviewsofallindivi-

omthenationa lhabitso f implicit

appenstobeestablished,

rowd,so thatnothing


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

forhislifewith thefore-

apologyformy poli-

entousaccasion.F eelings

amination,butonwhich

ught metothemoreho-

on.Y etImustplead for

avourofsuch as,fromthe

vetouchedupon,andin

prightintention thanmany

eopposedthebeginningof

tor,withwhichthey

ybranded,mustcutthem

rty; andeventhefear

suspicionamongus,may

orthe watchfulnessof

ashithertoprevented

last,commoninterest

erthenewsof thein-

hadreachedthatcapital,

gofconsiderablediffi-

dbye perience,attended

ont sarmyhadoccu-

hLa Mancha,andno

theF renchtosetoff for

Mydecision,however,

dbeenformedas soonas

ttheF rench; andthough


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

idea ofcastinghislot

opeand theInquisition,

nterest,in aquestion

dhisown natural

achingA ndalusiabut

stremadura,andnoother

thantwoA ragonesewag-

datasmall inn,orventa,

erenotunderthe im-

renchpolice.Theatten-

ntwas,besides,toomuch

fficultiesoftheir situa-

ondthegatesof thetown.

waythroughtheF rench

taon thedayappointed

singlepersonmetwith

s,luggageofany des-

ercepted; andwehadto

aying,ortravellinga

anashirtin ourpocket.

wever,weleftMadrid

fthe15thofJune, and

nto meetourwaggons.

ns, inS pa in, themostincon-

ndnothingbutnecessity

crosstheburningplains,

y.To avoidthe

oaches startbetween

ing,stopfromninetill


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

ompletethe day sjour-

n theevening.We,

ctthatindulgence. E achof

ctivewaggoner,within

loadhadleftnearthe

ntolerableclosenessof

dstillnessof aburning

tedwithfloatingdust,as

f suffocation.Our

rlyrising,but travelling

ngdinnerat themost

quentedroadwewere

gain,tillnight,when

heenjoymentevenofsuch

ntasafford.Ourstockof

hange,andwecouldnot

heconsequencesmight

at,and thecompanyof

passedthenightbyour

wretchedness,bygiving

pstheworst,oftheE gyp-

wehadnotyet gotthrough

douta sadprospectof

eville.

eeringinthe consci-

hof easeandprivate

heideaof relievingour

y inw hichthefearofour

musthavekeptthem € ” in

dwith openarmsby


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N . 37

adecommoninterestat

seemedto beagainst

ateofutterdiscomfortcouldnot

non ourspirits.The

chliesbetweenMadrid

emadura,presentednothing

urbtheseagreeableim-

ptionwemetwith fromthe

spectasfriendly aswe

tanceofsimpleunaf fected

poorwomannearMos-

ebeingmentioned,but

whichtherestofour

my memory. € ” Oppressed

f oursituation,andpre-

etotheraysof thesunin

urheavyvehiclesatsome

ofenjoyinga morere-

dbeobtainedfromthe

he sideofourwaggons,

cottage,atashortdis-

poorwomansatalone

here wasnothinginour

ventheappearanceofgen-

requestfora glassofwa-

to sitandrestourselves.

inthestate Iseeyouin, is

uharm.I fortunately

ge,and mustbegyouto

,d e ar S i r s, s h e ad d ed , " a r e, I


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

efromtheF renchatMa-

osper yourjourney! "

affecting,thatit ac-

r eyes.Todeclinethe

stospeakofpayment,

ttothe kind-heartedfe-

back theblessingshehadso

s,wasallwecould doto

,yetheartywelcome

eproceededfortwoor

gsofsecurityincreasingall

from Madrid.Itwas,

rtionthatwe wereap-

,aboutninein the

adadeOropesa,onthe

,whenweobserved,with

countrypeople,who,

beganto inquirewhowe

rquestionswiththefierce

odesmischief,among

southernprovinces.

tedhimself,and,having

of ourselvesandour

othepeoplethat,our

panish,wemightbeal-

d,however,awordof

reparedtomeetwith

dsuspiciousthanthoseof

euspaydearfor anyflaw


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

narrative,A sifto try

timidation,heacquaint-

nswhichhadtakenplace

ndthe victimswhich

nstance,tofallunderthe

thiswarningbecame

weadvancedthrough

eweattractedattheap-

ethreatsof thelabourers

d,and theaccountswe

nvincedus thatwe

ey sendwithoutconsider-

atepropensitytoshed

nyanoblequalityin the

dbeenindulgedinmost

ecloak ofpatriotism.

houghlongestablishedin

ectsofthepopularfury

whichweheardof,were

swho,probably,owedtheir

venge,andnot topoliti-

lcaldesandCorregi-

forprotection,perfectly

econsequencesofanyat-

uryofthepeopleunder

fminecan givesoclear

ountry,asthe simple

ngat A lmaraz,thelittle


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

to awell-knownbridge

iveredtousbythe

tplace.Thepeopleof

e accountsfromMa-

ofthe chieftownsof

acertainday,beforethe

edwithwhateverweaponsthey

ncludingsickles,pick-

mentsofhusbandry.Most

istrate,theinsurgents

im: andontheap-

heconfidentlycameout

nosmall difficultyob-

caldedesiredtobeinformed

.The answerappears

historyofmobs." We

dy , sa idthespok esmanof

meonehasbeenk il ledat

thersat Badajoz,anotherat

behindourneighbours.

A sthiscommodity

hevillage,itwasfortu-

makeourappearanceat

le ofA lmarazmight

on whomtodisplaytheir

,oftheirhavingnoani-

hemaskof patriotism,is

ntheir character.A

onafterleavingthe vil-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

f thesepatriots,con-

ywereamongthe least

tandsatthedistanceof

esfromthe village.It

arlesthefifth,by the

titwouldnothavedisgraced

ct.TheTagus,carrying,

digiousquantityofwater,

fthe twoarches,which

htheheightand span

ewholeanairof boldness

eur,thewantofsymme-

,andthenarrow,though

htherocky bankscon-

erablytheeffectit might

e.Y etthereissomething

f artstandingsinglein

ereneithergreattowns,

stributedpopulation,

sof industry,lu ury,

paredtheimaginationto

erefore , asthebridgew as

thewaggons,andallow-

us, lingeredtoenjoy

thesolidityandmag-

tingby chanceoureyes

chrisesonthe opposite

to anarrowspaceonthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

r,wesaw abandoffrom

edwithguns,leavingthe

nconcealed,andcoming

s.Thecharacterofthe

resses,arms,andmove-

edusat oncethatwehad

nditti.Butastheycould

thoughtweshouldmeet

approachedthemwith-

urcomingupto the

ofthepartysearchingthe

erest talkingquietlywith

of robberywereatan

ound,consistedofpea-

dreportthat theF rench

ammunitiontothe fron-

stationedon thatspotto

waggon,andstopall sus-

peoplebeenless good-

not haveescapedbeing

racter,tosome ofthe

blishedin S pain.But

athewasaclergyman,

renchinatrue patriotic

happyjourney,andallowed

atMeridaonaSaturday

earlyonS undayafter

e benefitoftravellers

dbeforedawn.Butthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





P A I N . 3 85

aggonsbreakingdown,we

ight ataV enta,andto

above-mentionedcity.

hstillshewthe ancient

meritaA ugustawould,

eaffordedusa pleasant

morethanrepaid usfor

ever,inducedustoconfine

ew ee pected, by there-

tourstrengthforthe

takena luncheon,we

ngsiesta,whenthe noise

streetandgatheringin

earlyundressed,tothe

yecouldreach,nothing

pactcrowdofpeasants,

vesin theirhands.

asw erenearbeganto

reateningtheywould

yF renchmanintheinn.

causeofthis tumult,

cesoftheblind fury

try,wehurried onour

e fronthallofthe inn.

goonsstandingintwo

ate,holdingtheircar-

officerwhocommanded

atwereblockadingthe

he firstwhoventured

perwalkedupand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

ailingthefateof his

swouldsoon beseton

atheredfromhim

ndconfusion.A young

kenontheroad toPortugal,

nthisgroundwasfor-

soldiers totheCaptain-

adajoz.Thecrowd in

uttwo thousandpeasants,

heirservices,wereunder

of thecity. Thepoor

entlybroughtintothe

rein theprincipal

nessof aS unday.On

renchman,theydrewtheir

himto pieces,butfor

smade withhimtowards

sso fierceandvoci-

oubt theywouldbreak

anion,beingfully

sition,urgedmeto follow

oobtainahearing,while

maketheirwaybe-

ers.We approachedthe

utbeforecomingwithinthe

ndcalled loudlytothe

oingusany injury for

ofhisprofessionabout

with abrother,(point-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

escapefromMadridto

ybelieve,that asfear

wings,itdidonthis oc-

ndwithwords ; fora

speechthanhis has

panish.Theeffectsof

resoonvisibleamong

toodnearest andoneof

eorator,thatno harm

ur requestingtoleave

dtoproceedinto the

enameof theBi-

icarGenera l and, w ithan

arntthatitw asSenorV a-

ognisedoneofourfel-

sityofS eville.Hehad

he RevolutionaryJunta

moreconfidentofhis

ethantherest ofhiscol-

tmobhadreducedtoa

on,heinstantlyoffered

forthenight,and engag-

ortforthe remainderof

me,the militarycom-

dedbysomeof thema-

ecrowdtothrowthe

dungeon,ashehad done

ownadjutant,against

cruitshadrisen onthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O MS P A I N .

saspirit,that though

s,theywoundedhimse-

kenhislifebut forthein-

who,bearingtheconse-

lacedtheofficerunder

rfulcharm.TheF rench-

ductedtoprison; but

magistrates,whosur-

otecthimfrom the

easants,whocrowding

terror,hewasslowly

tuckthe pointsoftheir

his body.Whetherhe

popular fury,or,by

pedwithlife,Ihave not

rney send,wewere

ourfears andmisgivings.

bybandsofreapers,

es,madeusgo through

errogatory.Butwhat

our mindswas,thede-

fromanA lcalde,ofthe

aceatS eville.A revolu-

object,isseldomwithout

ngbutdistanceoftime

olerableregularity.We

withtheinefficiencyof

suddenlybeenraised

rongreluctancetoplace


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





rA I N . 38

rnmentandprotection.

theJuntaofS evillewas

nster. Dull ignorance, mi ed

activehonesty,wasthe

ody.Buta manof

it,andwecould notbut

orridscenewithwhich

hatwasto givehima

rnmentofthe province.

ndalusiangentleman,

edambition,andnoprin-

earanceofageneraldis-

nch,employedhimselfin

ndedrevolt.Hisprin-

w rank,highlyendowed

wdness,quickness,and

ndalusians,andthereby

atthe headofthepopu-

rfromthema imthat

stbecementedwith

hichtheF renchJacobinshave

us € ” or, w hatismorepro-

esofrevenge,hadmade

A guilaanessentialpart

samemberofthe town

ndassuchhe joinedthe

heirendeavourstostop


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I H.

osoonerhadthe insur-

heandhiscolleagues

rrenderofthemselvesand

of thepeople.This,

tosavethevictimwhom

e oftheinferior

e.Luque,anusher ata

agedtoprocurethedeath

ssistedbyhisarmed

eunhappymantothe pri-

rHidalgos,whichstands

etow n; and, deaf tohis

nhadhimshot onthe

the armchair,inwhich

e posedforthatandthe

heruffianwhoperformed

stantlyraisedto therank

lly himselfisoneof

handnarroware theviews

that,if theconcentra-

owerof theprovinces

ers,itissaid, willrid

e,bysendingaman they

shareinthesupreme

narysuccesson a

f slightinto icationon

aseat thecreationoftheCentral


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

erygoodand badquality

on. Toanacutebutindif-

aswefounditon ourreturn,

terestingstudy.He

patrioticenergyofthe

deddevotiontothecause

wonderfuleffortbywhich,

bitsofsubmission,they

he authorityoftheir

gbayonetsoftheF rench.

okedwithpityonthe

oranceandsuperstition

ycircumstancesofthecoun-

on,whoseanti-catholic

urceof hismentalsuffer-

rwhichthe revolution

semistconcealingordis-

hotherwisewouldgratify

ospectoflibertybe-

hoeverywherestand

f ourpatriots.Itis in

anyamongthosepriests,

hedetests,arefarfrom

ythepowerfulassistance

indrivingtheF renchout

nd politicalstateofthe

e ertion.Theabsence

openingfortherestora-

s; andtheactua le ist-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





OM S PA I N .

steventuallyleadto the

rtes.Tothisheanswers

ydirectadvantagefrom

thepresentresistanceto

n,asitchieflyarisesfroman

hereligioussystemwhence

kessource.Thatifthe

ablethosewhohave

f superstition,toattempt

bygraftingthefeeble

tock ofCatholicism an

therto,andmusteverprove

rtialandimperfect

overnmentwhichthe

no lessthanfromthe

onstrousabuseofpower

roanedforages,toomuch

hecrown; which,thus

sehabits,forms,and

dshapedtodespotism,

yeither toanactive

dfinallyresumeits

elftoeverything

willnotdenythat

l,andthat,though the

ndsthem aresound,

muchtooindependentlyof

tances.Y etthedim

whichheseesthestate


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





PA I N .

rivesa constantfeelingof

m,Ifear,butlittle fitto

workofS panishreform,

llfeelthe ironyokewhich

ck.Ihave,therefore,

ovaltoE ngland,whenever

charms,whichourpresent

anentlycheck,shallenable

,soastoshewthati fhis

m,hewillnot seekrelief


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





T T R I II .a nd V I I *

TH J S U IT I N S PA I N .

ero fLord.

itsin S painalwaysap-

raordinaryoccurrence and

aracterofCharlesIII. by

pelled,themoresingularthe

parMelchordeJovellanos,

withall,and intimatewith

plishedthisobject,relatedse-

esattendingit gavemeavery

ccountofthecharacters con-

0 ,twoorthreeletters, which

containingsomeofthesecret

rV II. o f thean ietymanifestedbyC harles

ingtoRomeamanuscriptin thehandof

homthesuperstitionofthatcountrywished

f S aintship,wascompiledfromlocaltra-

spreservedfromaformer perusalofthe

nobleauthor, w hose loveof the literatureof

greatacqua intancew iththatcountry , w ouldbeenoughto

tbestknownby apeculiarbenevolenceof

pressedsofaithfullyintheaffabilityof

equentlyfavouredthewriterof thepreceding

to publishthissketch.Theattentive

ightvariationsbetweenmystoryof Bro-

tgiveninthisA ppendi . B utastheyallre -

ectedwiththecity ofS eville,Iamun-

hatI haveheardfrommytownsmenand

ebastianhimself-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O f TH

abletransaction.Isend you

rsation,withsomeadditional

yotherS paniards.Theymay

s andcombinationswhichled

formidablebodyofmen.

roneofS painwithdisposi-

theJesuits.N otonlythedis-

me,to whichthegovernment

se posed, butthepersonal

dhimselftohavereceivedfrom

t,ConfessortohisbrotherF er-

mthatformidablecompany.

byBarbara,Q ueenofS pain,of

urtofN aplesmightobtainin

nd,andtheoppositesystemof

Courts,bad convincedthe

ofbeing wellwithboth.N ot

deathofF erdinand,andthe

d verynaturallye ertedall

mselveswiththe powerful

anwiththeless important

ereaccordinglysatisfiedwith

utF erdinand,and,either

wedCharlestoselect his

derofregularclergy.Q ueen

ftheJesuits and,verypos-

unuchF arinell i , e ertedhis

heMarquisof E nsenada,

dinand,wastheiravowedprotec-

andtheQueen sascendancyover

stoofirmly establishedtobe

alofthatminister.But upon

and thesubsequentdeathof

suitse periencedasuddenand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





IN .

epolicyof theCourtof

esfeltdeepresentment

ransactionsin theBayof

theCourtof V ersailleswas

beeasilysupposedthat the

tsin F ranceandItalybegan

urtofMadridwith more

atquarterthan theyhad

ntertain.Thereis,however,.

ll thenominationofRoda,to

aceandJustice,anyactual

onsintrust orpower,ofhaving

pedientsaswereafterwards

lsionof the Jesuits.

ragonesebybirth,andan

hadimbibedveryearlyboth

ltenetsof theJansenists.

atthe barbyhisresoluteand

membersofthe Colegios

foundedfortheeducation

ents,hadbeenpervertedfrom

oughno onecouldbeadmit-

nda pluralityofvoices,it

ofpersonsof family.Its

clusiveprivilegesinthecareer

ance,anda corporationspirit,

tsthemselves,hadobtaineda

calandlegal patronage,and

yofthehighestjudicicial offices

thesecollegeswereenabled

fF iscal,Oydor,andother

previousceremonyofpassing

adationnonebutthosewho

ensewith.Theseprivileges


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O T H

,andthee pensewhichat-

peciallythatofthe Rectorsof

ficeofgreatconsideration

neffectualharto thepreten-

birthandwealthtorecommend

toobserve,thatiftheywere

piritof corporations,they

ghsenseofhonourwhichis

etimesthecharacteristic,of

has everbeenacknowledged

ethe abolitionoftheire clu-

alivedtoaccomplish,and,yet

scouragementbythePrince

shavenot beenfilledby

forintegrity,learning,and

diedthelawswithoutthe

nattheColegiosMayores,

dignantatthe privileges

heboldnessofDonManuel

anorder ofmensoinvidiously

himwiththelawyers,who,in

stitutealarge,active,andformid-

samehighspirithaving

th amanofrankand in-

ectorthe DukeofA lva

towithdrawfromCourt and

todosowith creditto

hapubliccommissionto

vedastheagentof theK ingof

,acquiredthat knowledge

mafterwardsintheprose-

gn.Bywhat fatalityhe

ot.CharlesIII.must have

ruleof appointingevery


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





IN .

dationofhispredecessor,for

sofCampoV illar,whohad

giosMat/ores,andwasattached

nterest oftheDukeof

spromotion.Hewasappointed

e, Ibelieve,asearlyas 17 3,

thathewasnot Ministertill

F romtheperiodofhisnomination,

datethedesignofsuppressing

assystematically,though

d,byaportion oftheS panish

,notonlyofthe ministry,

fRoda,wereso e clusively

at A zarasarcasticallyob-

acles,throughoneglassof

thingbut aColegial,and

buta Jesuit.If,however,

hehadthe advantageoften

t € ” aclearandmoreaccurate

hatcamewithinthe limited

dthediscernmenttodis-

positionscongenialtohisown

Hehadcunningenoughto

rtingtohis purposetheweak-

redispositionto co-operate

noraccident necessarytohis

senisthimself,he selected

sindiscriminatelyfromJanse-

freethinkers.A mongthefirst,

Tavira,bishopofS alamanca

anesandtheCountde

operationofthesepowerful

plainthedifficultieswhichoc-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O T H

ctionandassistanceoftbeK ing

hnofriendto theJesuits,

erbyhabitor principle,toin-

verseby constitutiontoall

religiousandconscientious

uiescenceandsanctionofhis

blynecessarytotheadoption

heinterestsofthe Church.

onsentof theConfessor(init_

ain)besufficient.Hemustbe

autious aswellasactivein the

esymustbe observed for

atedaseffectuallyby indiffer-

directresistanceorintrigue.

racteroftheConfessortoen-

risingor lesscunningthan

oF atherOsma, (socalledf rom

afriar oflittleeducationand

bitto theordertowhichhe

pectse emptfromthosepas-

on,aswell asfromthatardour

on,whicheithere citemento

erthemsubservienttothose

frompersonalobservation,

ledgeofthosepassionswhich

ngenders,discoveredthemeans

erOsmainhisv iew s. Nonew ho

onceivethe effectofinstitu-

petualcelibacyform aneces-

eirorder,the placeoftheir

chto whichtheybelong,

of religiousmentheaffections

urewouldhavebeenbestowed


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





IN .

s,or theirchildren.Padre

cityofwhichthevenerableand

beenbishop.Thesanctityof

fe,thefervourof hisdevotion,the

hristianfortitudeofhischarac-

eputationofasaint,andmight,

tholics,entitlehim tocanoni-

r,wellknewthattheJesuits

fo , publishedatParis, in17 7. The

horisevidentlyto mortifyandprejudice-

hecharacterofoneof theirearliestand

thoris,however,eitheran-ardentfanatic

as superstitiousasthosehewishestoe -

thecauseof thePhilosophersofF ranceand

ion,andconciliatingmanytruebelieversto

ngtheJesuits. € ” Pa lafo w asthe illegit imate

afo yMendoza,byaladyof rank,who,

retiredto thewatersofF iteroinN avarre,

24th June,1 00,toavoidthescandal,

ofdrowningherchild intheneighbouring

dtoperpetratethismurderwasdetected

rpose,thechild saved,andbroughtupby

use ofA rizatillhe wastenyearsold,when

me,acknowledged,relieved,andeducated

amanca. Hismotherbecameanunof the

er.Palafo wasintroducedatCourt,and

aresin1 2 , andw assoonaf ternamedto

lnessofhis paternalsister,thefuneralof

thepietyofhis mother,madesuchimpres-

vehimselfuptothemost ferventdevotion,

Hebecamechaplain totheQ ueenof

ssister,andtravelledthroughItaly,Germany,

. In1 3 , hew asconsecratedB ishopofA n-

ngeles,inA merica.Hisfirstquarrel

esubjectoftithes.Lands onwhich

enalienatedinfavourof theCompany,

whenoncethepropertyof theirbody,they


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O T H

memoryonaccountofhisdis-

hA merica heforesaw that

werfulbodywouldbemadeto

s nameintotheRubric.He

adroitlytoF atherOsmathe

dtohis nativetownifthisob-

.Hepaintedin glowingco-

dinspire inS pain,andthe

citeintheCatholicworld if

aniardofsoillustriousa name

virtuecouldbeactually

esatisfastionof finding

sedthecausewitha fervour

omhischaracter. Henotonly

urgedtheK ingtosupport

opof Osmawithallhis in-

hereanapparentdifficulty

o advantage,andconvertedto

gtheCourtof Madridinan

tta . Thesecondgroundw asapretended

preachwithoutthepermissionofthe

alafo contended.TheJesuits,having

pa inonthe irside, obligedPa la fo to f ly ; on

scelebratedletters againsthisenemies.

sfavourdidnotpreventhis beingrecalled

g. A tthepetit ionof the Jesuits, w ho

merica,theK ingnamedhimtothe bishopric

nd e travaganceofhisprinciples,the

epiou3bishoparespecimens: N otto

esence,andnever tospeaktoonebut

nd,andthedooropen.N evertopaya

whenthenotdoingso wouldappearsin-

dnevertolooka femaleintheface.When

woman,towearacrosswithsharp points


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





IN .-403

RomanPontiff.CharlesIII.

rtthe pretensionsofhis

a int buthehadajobofhis

ewiththeCourtofRome,

din histurntheco-opera-

btainthecanonizationofBro-

onedobscurepersonageis

o forciblythesingularcha-

illnotbeforeignto mypur-

sresidence inSev il le , Her-

o f lay-brother o f theC onventof

nde, w asaccustomedtov isitthe

e withanimageoftheInfant

hisorder.Theaffectedsanc-

humilityofhismanner,and

litywith whichhewasaccus-

enandchildrenwhomhe visited,

nofa saintina smallcircleof

dmanbegantothinkhimself

worksofdevotion,andeven

thecharacterof aprophet.

hthimto thepalace:he was

ntsoftheprinces, andCharles

iousfancytoBrotherS ebas-

he wasgenerallycalledinthe

magehecarriedwhensolicit-

Toingratiatehimselfwiththe

adeCharlesa presentofsome

alay -brother, butaDonado, aspeciesof re ligious

ingvows,wearthehabitoftheorder

yplease.The Donadosarenevercalled

” S e e D ob l ad o s L e tt e r IX .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





O T H

and, andtoldhim,withan

hathewould onedaybeK ing-

oubt,ofhis earlyindicationsof

presentdelightedCharles,

wordsandsenseofthepro-

perstitiousandretentivemind.

owntomentionthecircum-

verparted withthemanuscript.

ayandbynight,athome aud

up,itwasconstantlyin his

dunder hispillowduringhis

his accessiontothecrownof

edictionw asfulf i lled, thew ork ac-

eyes,hisconfidenceinBrother

asconfirmed,andhis memorywas

ondnessbythegratefuland

hesametime,therefore,that

opof Osmatocanonization

panishministerwasinstructed

hehumblefriarS ebastian.

zarawasentrustedwiththis

owthathe wasatsomepainsto

fthiscurioustransaction,it is

haveleft memoirsofbislife,

ondencewill,nodoubt, bede-

de quisitehumour.

fertileine pedients,espe-

startdifficultiesandsuggest

he investigationofPala fo ' s

yprotracted; anditwaseasy

ceof theJesuitsinthe S acred

hrownewimpedimentsinthe

scanonization.Thoughthe

seriouslyhavethoughtof


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





.

naplaceinthe Rubric,they

longdiscussions onhis

withscrupulousminuteness,

sforascertainingtheconduct

rigina lo feveryw rit ingofa

ea saint,mustbee aminedat

ege,andthatnocopy,however

assufficienttestimony,ifthe

istence,Thebook,therefore,

narchwassoattached,wasre-

anabundantsource ofnego-

couldnotbring himselfto

he formsofcanonization

mproceedingwithoutit.A t

shonestanddisinterestedzeal

upon.ButA zarawasin-

esummoned,andtheCardi-

eventhehouratwhich itwas

peditiouscouriercouldconvey

dridto Rome.Relayswere

CharlesIII. himselfdeposited

the handsofhismosttrusty

an iousinjunctionstopreserve

to loseamomentinsallying

rn,when theinterestingcon-

havebeen perused.

III. a" phantasma,ora

verslept,andscarcelytookany

wdayshewasseparatedfrom

mesticeconomy,andthe

chneitherpublic business

other instancedisturbed,

hase,whichwasnotinterrupted


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





I ON O T H

athofhischildren,wassus-

stian sorigina lM . couldaga in

.Hestood atthewindowof

ps ofrainontbe glasses,and

pleasure,conversation,and

llthelong-e pectedtreasure

monarchtohis usualavoca-

ssordiscoveredthatthe

withtheir solicitations,that

nsurmountablerepugnance,and

suspectthat thesacrificehehad

asallto nopurpose,andthat

been inflicteduponhimwith-

ntogrant himtheobjectfor

clined toendureit,bothhe

gry.Theoppositiontotheir

,andcertainlyindustriously

ccurredatMadrid. In17 6 ,

regulationof policewhich

cloaksandlarge hats,as

unitiesfortheconcealment

herobno iousmeasureswere

fS quilace,who,inhisqua-

foreigner,wasanunpopular

sIII.wascompelledto

C ountofA randa, disgracedunder

late lyappo intedtothecapta in-

,wasnamedPresidentofthe

purposeofpacifyingbyhis

ngbyhisvigour,theremaining

Heenteredinto allRoda s

se, hewasanenemyof theC o-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





IN .

mittedfewsubjectsofthat

nctions: andasafree-

,hewas an ioustosuppress

nded,werecirculatedin

ncedbythesepowerfulmen,

edthe riotsofMadrid.It

thatmanyhadbeenseenin the

andF atherIsidroLopez, an

deredasoneof theleadingcha-

se presslynamedashaving

nsenada,thegreatprotector

rreign,hadbeennamedby

successor ofS quilace,and

groundsforsuspecting,or

hediscontentof themetropolis

esuits andtheirprotectorthe

a. E nquiriesw ere instituted. Many

ed butgreatsecresywaspre-

epresumed,that,under

causesofthe lateriot,A randa

cteveryinformationwhich

he K ingagainstthoseinstitu-

rminedtosubvert.Theyhad

spectingtheconductofthe

rawntheattentionbothof

tothecelebratedletterof

escribesthemachinationsof

merica , andw hichthe irpartyhad

encedtobepubliclyburntin

ceofF atherOsma,theac-

andtheconcertof manyforeign

RodaandA randawereinwant


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





N O T H

alents,assiduity,learning,

,tocarry intoe ecutiona

on,ande tremelycomplicated,

tails.Theyfoundit inthefa-

apsthegratefulrecollectionof

ood-natureofJovellanos,led

searlyprotectorandprecursor,

mselfbroughttogreaterper-

swasanenlightenedman,and

estminister.Hewasatthat

and ChancellorofCastile,

essionofthe law,aswellas

ndpolitical bodiesthroughout

cleon allmattersregardingthe

hekingdom.TheColeccion

porelgobiernosobreel estrana-

poralidadesdelosRegulatesde

measurestakenbytheGo-

nandseizureofthe temporali-

companyofJesuits)issaid to

nce,sagacity,and vigour.

edon27thF ebruary , 17 7,

y whichaJunta,composedof

yalCouncil,wasinstituted,in

Madrid oftheprecedingyear.

ps,selectedfrom thosewho

doctrinesof S aintThomas

ntly,leastfavourabletotheJe-

rival tenets,)wereaddedfor

htandauthorityto theirdecree.

rmofthemeasurewerere-

onsdrawnoutforthe Ma-

ecute itbothinS pa inandin

directionsforthenatureof the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





.

stobeprovidedat thevarious

elsto bereadyintheports.

aid.Thesecret waswonder-

nighto f thef irsto fA pril, a tmid-

egeoftheJesuitsthroughout

ytroops,andeverymemberof

ectivechapters,priests orlay-

uaintedwiththedecree,and

ekingdom.Theirsufferings

efortitudewithwhich theybore

evenfromthosewhoare most

whichtheirlong influencein

rduced. Thee pulsionand

chpriestsduringtheRevolution

celylessinhuman,thanthe

egularand legitimatemo-

llyencouragedthem,onthe

the suppressionofthatso-

causeof liberty,morals,and

forthoughthe irsystemofeducation

,itmustbe acknowledgedthatin

dat whichtheeducationof

dtoJesuits,is thatinwhich

d,andgeneralignorancepre-*

ationinacountryis tobe

esuitsinS paincertainly

ationto therestofE urope,

heradvancedinscienceandlearn-

si teenthcenturies,than

deighteenth andsincethe

ny,in17 7,andnottill then,

spiritofimprovementrevived


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





paniardstotheImmaculate

nMary . € ” p. 22.

ionsrelativeto thedis-

onceptionofthe V irginMary,

sewhichtookplace atS eville,

ithinthe limitsofoneofthe

eaders,besides,astakelittle

nature,wouldprobablyhave

untof absurdities,whichseem

serveanynotice.Y etthere

gis withoutinterestwhich

of thehumanmind, ande -

ablemodificationsofsociety.

e,tothefirst,we havedetached

omthete to fDoblado sLet-

onwehavecollectedfromthe

te,the lengthofwhichwill,

thoseofthe latterdescription.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





lateConceptionofthe

eDominicansandF ranciscans

century.Thecontending

equalground but" the

n weresodecidedlyonthe

thattheysoonhadthe Christian

t becamedangerousforany

otherofGod(suchis the

eChurchofRome)hadbeen,

nvolvedinoriginalsin.The

d,however,thedispu-

tles,withoutshewingthe

pinionhad takenadecided

nasermonpreachedatthe

ewoutsomedoubtsonthe Im-

swasconceivedtobeanin-

nMary,buttothe community

acewaskeptwithdifficultyfrom

ceontheoffenderandhiscon-

stofS eville,whopublishedhis

matterof Christianforbearance

ofthepreacherandhis convent

sterity . B utif theciv ilandec-

ertedthemselvesforIhepro-

eywerealsothe firstto

atoryrites,whichmightavertthe

ndmakeamplereparationto

ssionsinnumerableparaded

eoriginalpurityof theV irgin

e lC id, aSev il l ianpoetof that

rchbishoptocomposethe

oelMundoengenera l, w hich,

ty,isstill nightlysungat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





nscalledRosarios,whichhave

d sLetters.

ocureadecisionofthe Pope

eConception.Topromotethis

missionersweredispatchedto

edclergymen,whohadde-

esto thecauseoftheV irgin

scribablean iety the long

doomedtosilencetheoppo-

nnocence,wasknowntobeon

aloftheF isherman,^ and

mselvesinreadinesstoe press

rymomentofits arrivalin

ttookplace onthe22dof

clock P .M. " Thenew s, says

ersalstirin thetown.Menleft

teoneanotherin thestreets.

zarenesjoininginaprocession

edpersons,withlightedcandles

fromtheirchurch,singing

ginalPurity.N umerousbon-

etswereilluminatedfromthe

dingeniousfireworkswerelet

town.A tmidnightthebells

nto ageneralchime,which

rishchurchandconvent and

dfancydresseshavinggathered

palace,hisgraceappearedat the

ythedevoutjoy ofhisflock.

llsall thechurcheswerethrown

raisesofferedup inthemlent

atoris,thegreatseal ofthePopes.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





mostlivelysoundsof the

ntly fi edw henalltheauthorit ies

intheCathedral,tobelieve

Conception.A nendlessseries

thankHeavenforthelate

evers.Infact,thepeople of

bout,forsometime,without

ssion. " A nyboy , saysa

who,goinguponanerrand,

mnTodoelMmido,weresure

whichfromonegrewup into

asnotagentleman,clergyman,

ndfollowthechoruswhich he

he streets.

emonies,showsofamore

hibited. A mongthesew as

me,called,inA rabic,E lJeerid,

romthereedswhich,insteadof

ateach other,astheygo

racefuland complicatedevo-

iestaslleales,orbull-fights,

earena,werealsoe hibitedon

however,thespectacle,and

whichrequiresa speciesof

giganga,adwarf,whosedimi-

ank,whoare membersoftheassociations

rmatthesegamesontheK ing sbirth-day,

Horsemanshipwasformerlyingreatesti-

lusiangentry,whojoinedinavarietyof

withthatart.S uchwastheParejaide Hachas,

t,atwhich theridersborelightedtorches.

v isitedS ev il le , in1 24, onehundredgentle-

ogrooms,allwithtorches intheirhands,

his wastheonlyamusementwhich,ac-

notions,couldbe permittedinLent.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





avethestirrupsf i edonthe

dona milk-whitehorse,and

fgiganticstature,dressedin a

,foughtwithoneofthe bulls,

slance intotheanimal sbody

w hichw asdeemedtoo importanttobe

phersofS eville.

acteristicof theshowswas,

ournament, e hibitedatthee -

k-weavers,who,fromthe

ishColonies,hadattainedgreat

tthatperiod.It isthusde-

fthe times,byamodernS pa-

e lPardon(oneof thegatesof the

erected,terminatingunderthe

rgin,whichstandsoverthe

atswereplacedatthe footof

railedin onbothsidesofthe

es,thechallenger,the sup-

rshal,andthe adventurers.

ofthestagewaspitchedthe

ack andbrow nsilk, andinita

vet.Infront stoodthefigure

uit,andhangingfrom its

he challengewase posedto

ernoon, theMarsha l, attendedby

himselfinthelists.He was

nthe dressusedtorepresent

mustbeaw arethatthisw asanimitationofa foot

entasfrequentamongtheancientS panish

orseback.Itiscalledin theS panishChro.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





sintheir hands.A nother

theA rchangel,wastheleader

angels, w how erethebearersof

mbandaMale Infant. TheJudges,

edlastofall, andtooktheir

fes,andclarions,announced

fanothergroup,composedof

mensions,withlargeclubson

-bearersinblack,andtwo

thecentre, thecha llenger sshie ld-

allenger ssupporterorsecond,

with aplumeofblackand

havingwalkedroundthe

thechallengerout ofthetent,

thhissupporter,appeared

vehandsinlength.

eA dventurers,theirattend-

supportersorseconds: € ”

s-R epentance.

etousness.

res5DivineLore

panishw riterhasforgottentomentionthea llegory

dent,fromthesequel,thathewasintended

erycommonamongtheservantsofthe

noteasytoguessfor whatreasonthey

m,onthisoccasion.

H op e an d


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





esthehistorian)wereallsplendid,

ers.

gagedthechallengerinsucces-

dbythe firststrokeofhis

tethey drewtheirswords,

ccess,someconqueringthe

hersyieldedtohissuperiorforce.

uishedhimselfsomuchsrsthe

fthewoundhehadrecei vedat

armedwithfreshWeaponsby

neverysucceedingrentidunteT.

sswasrewardedwithaseatnear

as awardedhimasaprifce.

rsha landhisA djutant, fo llow ed

eft thestage.Ina short

llowedbytwelveyouths,as

nV irtues personatedbychildren

age,andnineA ngels,asrepre-

rchies.Twt)squiresattended

dA ngels thew bdtetra inbe ing

Love,supportingthe last

childsevenyearsold,who,as

HolyV irgin,wasmorespren-

in asuitOf sky-blueand

enstars,thehairflowingdown

heldroundtheheadby a

sfacedeachother,thechallenger

ation.The femaleA dven-

ouldriot usethelancewith

e lists foritttorethew ords

anderolewhichhung frbta

sfnenumeratessevenv icfcfÂ » Mseven op-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





tweapon,shereceived

withtheinscriptionDaughter

momentthecha llengerdarted

fearandconfusion, hecouldnot

theheroine,onthe contrary,

hisbreast,broughthimin-

andthevictorywascompleted

ringthemottoes € ” Motherof

useof theHolyGhost. Unhurtby

wlaidhim ontheground,and

pon hisneck,amidstashout

TheJudgesawardedherthe

seatedheraboveallin a

heV irgintook the irseatsDiv ine

ohntheBaptist,anda

ed,inwhichalltheother com-

rnamentbeingended,the

etiredthroughthe leftavenue.

ductedthevictor,throughthat

ne hundredandfortytorch-

icianssinging hertriumphal

bytheimmenseconcourse.

ev illaporDonF erminA rana

derrama)p.77,etjseq.

h on . € ” p . 4 .

phontranslatedinthete tis

a parw mpa- tn/ ev , aa istptitto fw ,

f f tv , ov i/ Tno- vouvroo-vvbeiTrv riirt iv . Â £ >s S sicam

/ mtyo iino, ovmtit i tMw cB . S ympos.

at t h e t n t p u Â « o , w h ic h i s so o n


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





kingoftheorderin whichthe

attable.Hewants,in the

ntoÂ £ tu% ov . B utthoughthe

hereseemstobeno necessity

ophonis,indeed,remarkably

ot,iu bothplaces,probably

m.Itmightbe appliedtothe

ngland,anditshouldseemto

ophontodenotetheGreeksense

ceattable.InS pain,where

er,a greatdealofbowingand

etheguestscan arrangethat

outanysettledrule,thereis

dsanyone whowishesnotto

blythesecond ua-irtfibcofof

veanamusingMiracleof the

heYear. p. 70.

te tisthe A noF irgineo.

and similarbooksmaybe

ory € ” technica llynamedanEx -

illventuretogivef rommemory : € ” A

dfoughtinthe N etherlands,

hsomebooty,wasleadinga

fe.Hehad,however,bled

w nw asperfectlyorthodo . A

irginMaryhungovertheinside

,which,itseems,didnot

hebrave halberdier smind

verymorningheusedto sally

lpleasure but,thoughhi


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





prayer,hewouldnotcross

dHail Mary! tothepicture,

tionofthehalbert,which

hurrytobreak outofthe

wantofroomfor hismilitary

undonthe canvass.Thus

nghis lifeandmoney,tilla

mposedhimtorest,in theheat

ndmadenosign. TheDevil,

prizeasanythat hadeverbeen

yforthe sentencewhich,

assedon everyindividual

nwhattheycallthe Particular

momenttheV irginMary

kmantle,similar tothatwhich

utsadlyrentandslit inseveral

mark s, shesa idtotheaf f right-

houghcertainlywell-meant

permitthat onewhohasso

day,shouldgointo everlasting

badetheev ilspiritgiveuphis

ldierwassent topurgeoffthe

re,in thegentlerflamesof

ort ionof thebook f romw hichIreco l-

anyyears,readeveryevening

shesatS eville.Iobserved

wnnotfarfromthecapital of

ny thingIk now tothecontrary , it

overS pa in. S uchisthedoctrine

bythedivinesof theRoman

he systemofsaint-worship,

ousfeelingofthe vulgar,and

fthe higherclassesinS pain.

ousOrdersare fullofnar-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





hichis torepresenttheir

savefrom theveryjawsof

erhasoftenbeenengagedto

theeye, andtheSpanishcon-

oreencouragingto vicethan

fthe PalaisRoyal.Irecollect

nventof theA ntonines € ” aspe-

usF ranciscanusoftheMo-

rangelyabsurd, thatIhopethereader

gthisnotewith itsdescrip-

owasinthe cloistersofthe

io,facingtheprincipalentrance,

whenIwaslast atS eville.The

escapeof agreatsinner,

edaga insta llchances. A ne tract

Order, whichisfoundina

rmsthe beholderthatthe

sentedonthe canvass,wasa

ortifiedinhisowncastle,be-

enceof theneighbourhood.

n,northehonourof woman,

ofhis passions,nonewillingly

pproachedthegateofthe

r,thattwoF ranciscan

n astormynight,applied

obleman sgate,wherethey

andscorn.Itwaswell

t . F rancisf i l ledthew orldat

iththe assistanceofS tf

roatofanItalianbishop,who

mentoftheF ranciscansinhis

hesubjectofanotherpicturein the

ncis, atS ev il le . Thebishopisseeninhisbed,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





hmentabatedthefierceness

deredbis servantstogivethe

a bed,andacoupleof eggs

enthis e planation,the

priatelanguageof hisart,and

atelyafterthedeath ofthe

archangel € ” w hobyatradi-

pain,andprobablycommon

consideredtohavethecharge

swiththeirgoodworks,

ecommitted € ” isrepresented

uhis hand.S everalangels,

,andacrowdof devilsare

stance,theresult ofthetrial.

nthepunyshapeofa sickly

ed,inonescale, whiletheop-

strousheapof swords,dag-

-letters,andportraitsoffemales,

f hisfiercedesires.It is

smasswouldhavegreatlyout-

rlytransparentformwhich

e, hadnotSa intF rancis, w hose

thepainting,assistedthe dis-

sneatlyseveredthehead fromthebodywith

hichhehadborrowedforthispiouspurpose.

thavebeensuspectedofhavingahand in

rmedanadditionalwonder.Thefigures

ntF rancisstoodsidebyside inapa intedglass

ventofthe order.Theapostlehada

companionwasweaponless.Tothe

s,it wasobserved,onemorning,that

ythesword tohisfriend.Thedeathof

edthatverynight,e plainedthewonder,

thosemight e pectwhothwartedthe

ablishmentoftheF ranciscans.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





coupleofeggsauda bundle

fthebalance.Uponthis

nstrumentsandemblemsof

kickthe beam.Itappears

shpainteragreeswithMiltonin

ate:andthat,since thedaysof

orweightisbecomethe signof

w asthatofdefeat € ” quovergat

he S panishJesuits,p.77.

thepoliticaldelinquencies

estenemieshavenever ven-

ofJesuitswithmoralirregula-

that bodyprecludedthe

duct.N oJesuitcouldstepout

he superiorforleaveanda

fwhomgreatcare wastaken

erweretheyallowedtopassa

vent,e ceptwhenattendinga

en,theywere underthe

rnat whateverhourthesoul

ever,cangiveamorestriking

ternal governmentoftheJe-

wninmyfamily,whichI shall

ofinterest.A Jesuitofgood

ancommonabilities,had,during

a,becomea generalfavourite,

f distinctionwheretherewere

ofthe threedaysproperly

ppenedtocallat thathouse,

yindulgingwitha fewintimate


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





of theseason; buta ll isapri-

ththefreedomandvivacity

ales,theyoungladiesformeda

vouriteJesuitstandup and

cewasinvain: theyteased

ill he,ingood-naturedcon-

dinthedancefor afewminutes,

at.Y earselapsed:hewas

ndprobablyforgotthetransient

en betrayed.Itiswell

he Jesuits,whomadeRome

pointedfromthencetoevery

theworld.Butsolittle ca-

minations,thatthefriendsofthe

ailye pectingtoseehim

oroftheJesuitsin A ndalusia.

wever,theelectionfell upon

theelectionsweretriennial,

madeforthe ne tturn.Pressed

esiredhissecretarytoreturna

ceivedinthese words:" It

Granada.

,the mostaustereorderof

aguitar,and singingBoleros

y intheopenf ie lds andIhave

gcalledtowatchovera death-

amily,badtheaudacityto

femaleintheveryroomwhere

s.He recovered,however

unicatethishorridinsult tohis

fact.Theconventtowhich

ous,amongthe-lowerclasses,

rativeofS panishmanners.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





mmonlyremindedofhispro-

y thewagsofthecompany.

hemp,myfather )areheard

thescourgeusedforthe dis-

hatsubstance,andrecommend-

rebelliousspirits.Thesetwo

heart.

cepticismamongtheCatholic

gentleman,whohadresided

heobtainedlodgingsina

eatthe terminationofafriendly

ththe mostableindividuals

sofdifferencebetweenthe

dRome.Thedisputehadbeen

withgreatabilityonthe Ca-

ungestmonks.When,at

iefdisputants,hadretired,the

nglishguest,askedhim

whathebadbeen defending

nswerin theaffirmative,he

ng, A llo rle icredepiuche iutto

147.

Deityin theform-ofachild

n,Thenumberoflittlefigures,

i oDios, orNino Jesus,

unsinmostconvents.

nallthevarietyof thenational


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





men,canonsintheirchoral

their hoods,physiciansiu

dcanes, &c. & c. TheNino

atehouses; andinsomeparts

andtradeisthemain occupation

edressof asmugglerwitha

e,andablunderbussleaning

r p. 170.

m o ir e s su r l a Gu e rr e d es F r a nÃ § a i s

satraitsoperfectly incharacter

scriptionofthepeople ofOlbera,

ranscribe it: € ”

esunbivouacdansuneprairieentourÃ © e

l aubergequiestsurlarouteau

sfurent,pendantle reste

napparence,et ilsnousfourni-

aulieud unjeunebÅ “ ufque

ilsnousapportÃ ¨ rentunÃ ¢ necoupÃ © en

uvÃ ¨ rentqueceveau,comme

goÃ » tunpeufade; maiscene

¨ squenousapprÃ ® mescettebizarre

nardseu -mÃ ª mes. Ilsnous

ite,entiraillant avecnous,

© de l Ã ¢ n e Ã O l be r a. C Ã © t a i t, d a ns l e ur

desinjuresqu onpÃ » tfa ireÃ

ndsinlive lypicturesofS panish

accounthegives oftheS er-

tindulgingnationalpartialities,

ortalenemies,andrepresents


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





ecolourswhich wereconsistent

dgivenby thatC rucif i intheP lague

cord. p. 174.

copiesaS panishinscription,

conventofS a intA ugustin, at

bjo inatranslation: € ”

be ingunderamostv iolentattack

at numbersdied, thetwo

cclesiaticalandS ecular,re-

tyofourfather S t.A ugustin,

hristto becarriedtothe

gly,conveyed,onthesecond

asolemnprocession,at-

hapter(theTownCorporation),

unities,amidstthe loudwail-

enthemostillustrioustheChap-

dtomeet theprocessionatthe

centines.fThemostholy

gandthe ensuingnightinthe

moderneditorandannotatoro fZ uniga , states,

withinthefirst si weeksaftertheap-

enumberof deathsamountedtoeighty

weconsiderasapalpablee aggeration;

earlydepopulatedonthatoccasion,it is

ainedmorethan onehundredthousand

etsbearingthenameof foreignnations

aof itsformercommerceandw ealth. Thestreet

ntinuationof thatof theF rank s( rancos).

et(calleLombardos),aGenoaS treet,and

enomination.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





ene tdaytoits shrine,our

nthat theplagueshould

y whentheimagewasbrought

atthe endoftheOctavario,

was attestedbythephysicians.

andmostloyalcity ofS eville

ofJuly,for ever,torepair

fthanksgivingforthatgreat

nowledgmentofthemiracle,

wereunwilling togivethe

reditof stay ingtheplague. Z uiT iga

econjunctionofJupiterwith

CaptainF rancisdeRuesta,

nottakeplacetill the12thof

nderfuleffectsoftheproces-

nd theCaptainhimself,pro-

nquisition,declaresthatthe

eplanets" waspreviouslyen-

o f theHolyC hristo fS a int

A na lesdeSev il la , t. iv . p. 404.

heR eligiousProbationers. p. 1 5.

vel," F rayGerundiodeCam-

pictureof theadventuresof

yPadre Isla,aJesuit,for

efopperyand absurdityofthe

nteshimselfcouldnotboast

hingthe booksofChivalry

iarsoutoftheaffectedand

ich,inhistime,were mistaken

eInquisitioncould not


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





s,the religiousorders,should

heirmembers, totheshaf tso f ri-

undiow asprohibited.

raspara lavidadelEx cmo.

rdeJovellanos,waspublished,

anBermudez.Thisgentle-

dintimacyfromearlyyouth

moirs,enabledhimtodraw

of themostinterestingmen

inher decline,has,probably,

nd falsenotionsofdecorum,

ry,greatlydisappointedour

ellanoshimselfisconfinedto

lemorethan thedatesof

publiclife,some vaguedecla-

sonthe greatintrigueswhich,

ministry,confinedhimsoonaf-

er.Thesecondpartcontains

nalysisofhisworks.The

ever,areindebtedtothe

rthehelp whichthiscollection

trulye ce llentandamiable

writerwho,with moresettled

getherundermorefavourable

rtaketodrawthefull-length

arcelyposseesasketch.

ch ofourreadersasmay

vellanos,wesubjoinabrief

fhislife.

erdinandV II.,Jovellanos

edfromhisconfinement,and


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





mberoftheCentralJunta.

edSev il le in1810, andthe

dedtheJunta,hewishedtore-

on,inA sturias.

speratedbynationalmisfor-

elfagainsttheabdicatedGo-

ofenergytheadvantagesofthe

atelyattributed andJovellanos,

theBayof Cadiz,hadthemor-

ewas involvedintheabsurd

havingsharedin thespoilof

thwhichtheCentralJuntawas

pealtothecandourof thena-

Cadizpapersforinsertion,

the light € ” sonarrow andill ibe-

R egency € ” andthefee lingand

hadtosailunder theintolerable

fhiscountrymenmightlook

avouringtoabscondfrom

uldadd tothepainfulness

,itwasthat,whilethethought-

ofhis countrymenthusin-

ofpeculation,thestateofhis

aveobligedhimtoacceptthe

ehundredpounds,thesavings

whichhistrusty valetpressed

e mightdefraythee penses

ville.

kedonthecoast ofGalicia,

andat thesmalltownof

dureafreshinsultfromthe

,by whoseordershispapers

ndcopiestakenattheoption


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





purposewithamilitaryde-

heF renchfromGijonenabled

vetown; butanune pected

edhim soonaftertotake

itation,Hisflight wasso

yat seawithouthavingdeter-

uge.Hadthevenerableand

totherepeatedinvitations

rdHolland senthimafter

gerfromthe progressofthe

ebeen prolongedunderthe

House.ButJovellanos sno-

ooe altedandromantic:and

whiletherewasasingle spotin

ots.

seatheportofRibadeo,

shfrigate,inwhichhehoped to

otherstorm kepthimforeight

rdshipsof adangerousna-

owdedship. E x haustedboth

aheartalmostbrokenby

etwithat thecloseofa long

hiscountry,hel andedat

tyofthetownofferingno better

placedinthesameroomwith

ndand relation,whohad

dseemedsoshatteredbyage

bletosurvivethe effectsofthe

semployedhisremaining

mfortinghis fellow-sufferer,

send,his friendwas,according

try,removedtoanotherroom.

shandonJovellanos.Two


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





si ty -si thyear, hew asla id

friend.

o . 2, toLordHolland sLifeofLopedeV ega

sand translationsofsomeeloquentpas-

pen,towhich Ihavemadeanallusionin

, f romamarblebuste ecutedatS ev il le

io , athislordship sdesire, andnow inhis

othesecondvolumeof thesamework.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





/ h t t p : / / w w w . h





Documents

Blanco White - Letters From Spain