jet runabout

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With no lower unit to worry about, you can take thisboat through the shallowest, snag-filled water

New thrillsafloat with

this jet boat

By ARTHUR MIKESELL

• TURBO-JET POWER has caught the fancy ofoutboard boaters for many reasons. They wantthe jet's shallow-draft capability, the strong ini-tial thrust for water-skiing, and the additionalsafety of a propellerless propulsion system.

We found this interest so great that we com-missioned Bill Nielsen of the Cole-Nielsen firm,located in Coral Gables, Fla., to design the firstdo-it-yourself boat specifically designed for thisnew propulsion system.

At the outset, we decided that this boat shouldbe both exciting and practical, fast and stable.This jet boat turned out to be an outstandingsuccess on all counts. Its 15-ft. 11-in. length and

Here is the first do-it-yourselfboat ever designed for turbojet

propulsion. It will leap to a planein its own length, or quickly convert

to a roomy fishing boat when thedeck is removed. It's great for

shallow, snag-filled inlets, too.Most important, it's easy to build

Lift off the deck and you havea roomy fishing boat thatwill take you to thosehard-to-reach but snaggy inlets

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6-ft. 6-in. beam make it a roomy packet withgood load-carrying ability. Since a jet drive re-quires no lower unit, its use in this modifiedGarvey hull allows exceptionally shallow draftwith no worry about snags. It's a fast boat, too.With the two-stage jet unit driven by an Inter-ceptor 100-hp. engine (a marine conversion onthe compact Comet-Falcon block), the pilotmodel was able to top 35 mph and do it in shal-low, obstructed water where prop boats wouldhave to be conned at an idle.

The exciting features of the boat go beyondthe jet drive. Lift off the removable portion ofthe deck and you have walk-around space aheadof the control stand, making the boat ideal forhunting or fishing. As for cost, the jet drive andmotor combination compare well with inboard-outdrive installations in the same power range.

Before going on to the construction, one pointshould be made clear. Jet units are not standard-ized. Each make requires a different shaped in-take cutout in the bottom of the boat, differenttransom cutouts and a different mounting block.The jet unit used in this hull, Fig. 4, is the two-stage 75-2 model built by Buehler Turbocraft ofIndianapolis, Ind. Any details included here per-taining to the jet installation apply to this unitonly. If you are considering another make ofjet, check with the manufacturer before you startbuilding to find out necessary modifications.

A word about materials might also be in order.All planking is 3/8-in. fir plywood, in the marinegrade AB or better. Because the panels requiredare unusually long, your dealer may not have

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jet runabout

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them in stock. If he has to put in a special orderfor them, they might not be delivered for amonth, so check with him before starting con-struction to avoid delays later.

The length of all fastenings should be at leastthree times the thickness of the outer piecethrough which they pass, wherever possible. Ingeneral, serrated bronze nails (Stronghold, An-chorfast, etc.) are used to secure the planking,and these should be at least 1 in. long. Chines,battens, sheer shelf, etc., are mounted with l-1/2in.No. 10 flathead brass wood screws. Use water-proof glue at all joints and bedding compoundunder all molds. The bulkheads, transom andstem are all cut from 3/4-in. exterior fir plywood,with the stem consisting of three layers of ply-wood held together with glue and screws. For acomplete list of materials used in the construc-tion, turn to page 1508.

Since no building frame is used in constructingthis boat, it is extremely important that you havea stable, level nailing platform to hold the framein line. The hull was built on a construction floormade from scrap 2 x 4s and plywood.

lay out center lineLay out a center line on the construction floor

and mark off the station spacings, being carefulto keep them square to this line. After cutting outthe bulkheads and transom, Fig. 13, make up thetemporary molds from scrap 1 x 3 stock. Use noglue when assembling these molds as they willhave to be dismantled later. To bring the bulk-heads and transom up to the correct height abovethe base line, Fig. 14, you may either leave extrastock on the upper part when cutting them outto serve as legs, Fig. 12, or mount temporary1 x 3 legs on them. Side supports cut to theproper angle should be mounted to the legs onthe transom and seat back to add stiffening andgive the proper rake.

Draw an accurate center line on all bulkheadsand molds, then position them on the buildingfloor and nail the legs to cleats which have beensecured to the floor at the station lines. Next,make up the stem leaving the fore end long asshown in Fig. 12 so that the header can bemounted on it at the correct height above thebase line. After mounting the header, set thisstem-header assembly in place and add the keel-son, making sure that all these members fitsnugly at the bulkheads. When all parts havebeen aligned, secure them with glue and screws.

The four stringers, Fig. 11, are now cut andbeveled about 6 deg. on the planking side. All

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jet runabout

dimensions from Figs. 14, 15 and 16 pertainingto stringers (shown as buttock lines) are forthe inboard or deepest side. Notch the fore endof the outer stringers to receive 1 x 2 battensand mount these battens to the stringers at aslight toe-in angle. Then bend the battens overthe bulkheads until the fore ends are hardagainst the header but forward of the final posi-tion and clamp them in place. Saw off the sur-plus using the lower surface of the header as

Bottom planking can be clamped to the header tomake nailing easier and assure contact at center line

a guide, draw the battens closer to their finposition and saw off more material. Repeat thoperation until the battens are in their finposition and have the proper angle. Then sec-ure them to the header with glue and screws.

You are now ready to lay out and mount thetwo-piece sheer shelf. Using temporary cleats at-tached to the bulkheads, molds and transomclamp the 1 x 10 board from which the longerpart of sheer shelf will be cut to the undersidethe frame at the proper crown. Then lay a battenon this board so that it is in contact with the out

Use the plywood surface of the intake block as asawing guide when continuing the intake angle

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side of all stations, clamp it in place and usethis as a guide for marking. Remove the shelfand make a bevel cut of about 15 deg. with theline marking the narrow side of the cut. It isbest to cut on the outside of the line so that abit of stock is left for final trimming.

After cutting the scarf, Fig. 10, clamp theshelf in position again. Now put the second

The keel and stem band are mounted after fiberglass-ing is completed, and faced with aluminum molding

length of 1 x 10 in place, clamping it to theheader and two forward bulkheads. Use a battento continue the sheer line of the first piece to theheader and then follow the outline of the header.Remove both pieces of the shelf and bevel-cutthe sheer line of the second section as you didthat of the first. Using plenty of glue, join thetwo pieces at the scarf cut with a simple butt

Paint the bottom of the hull before turning it andmake sure the hull cradle is padded to protect finish

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jet ranahow!

JET MATERIAL LIST

joint reinforced with a temporary backing platewhich will be removed after the coaming linehas been laid out and cut.

Next, lay out another line to cut the coamingedge of the shelf. Measuring from the sheeredge, mark points 4-1/2" in at the transom,5-1/2"in. in at the seat back and 2-1/2 in. in at the stemheader. Connect these points with a batten bentto a fair line and mark this line. In order toprovide support for the decking, move this linein about 1 in. from the header to station 2 andfrom the transom to a point about 11-1/2in. for-ward of it. Cut this coaming line with a bevelof 10 deg. opposite to that of the sheer bevel.Both the coaming and sheer bevels will be widestat the deck surface and taper toward the under-side. Once the coaming bevel is cut, the sheershelf can be clamped in place and secured. Atthe header use glue only, since the fore end ofthe shelf will require quite a bit of shaping whenyou fair the crown of the deck. Screws can beinstalled after you have completed this fairing.

The upper chine and floor riser is mountednext. Bevel the floorboard edge of this member 15deg. so it will fit flat against the underside ofthe floorboards and fasten it temporarily in placeon the bulkheads. Use a batten to mark off theside that will come in contact with the lowerchine, bending it over the bulkheads and hold-ing it against the upper chine. Note the angleof bevel at each station and then remove theupper chine so that it can be sawed out to themarks you have made.

The lower, full-length chine is now added.While no beveling is needed to mount this mem-ber, you might bevel it about 8 deg. on the out-side to reduce the amount of hand planing

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required later. Note that the bottom surface ofthe chine will be flat against the bottom plankingand thus will require a minimum of planing.However, this means that there will be a slighttwist in the member when it is mounted, so beespecially careful when bending it. Mount thelower chine as you did the stringer and battens,using nails and glue to fasten it to the upperchine, and screws and glue to attach it to thebulkheads, transom and header. If you are care-ful, the bending required when mounting thechine can be performed without steaming thewood. Should you run into difficulties, pour abit of hot water on stiff areas to make thembend easier. The bending job will be much easierif you fasten temporary cleats at the forwardbulkheads so that they can be used when clamp-ing the chine in place.

You have now arrived at one of the mostcritical stages of construction—building the in-take block, Fig. 8. To be absolutely safe, makea full-size drawing of the block and take alldimensions from this. The underside of the sidepieces and filler block at the aft end should bebeveled 6-1/2 deg. The forward side of the fillerblock is at an angle of 90 deg. to the base, andthe underside of the plywood piece forward isat an angle of 15 deg. to the base. Use plenty ofglue when assembling the intake block and makesure that it's clamped tightly while drying.

mounting the intake blockMount the intake block so that the forward

edge of the aft filler block is not less than 10-1/4in. nor more than 10-3/8 in. forward of the insideface of the transom. This dimension is critical.Be sure to take the measurement square to thetransom and parallel to the top of the intakeblock. Cut the aft end of the keelson to an anglematching the upper surface of the plywood faceon the intake block and secure the block to thekeelson. To complete the keel line, mount afiller piece measuring 1-1/4 x 2-1/4" between theaft end of the block and the transom.

You are now ready to fair the frame. Lay astraightedge across the keelson, stringers andchine at the angles indicated in Fig. 15. In eachposition, these angles will permit the straightedgeto touch all members it crosses. Bevel all partsas indicated by the underside of the straightedge.The sides of the chines are beveled to follow theflare of the bulkhead and transom sides. Thestem bevels are indicated by the straightedgeand the shape of the header.

After the frame has been faired, the planking

can be done. Starting with the sides, Fig. 1, tackthe first panel in place and mark it for cutting.It's a good idea to use one or two screws at eachend so that the panel can be replaced in the sameposition after it has been cut. Now remove thepanel and cut it slightly oversize to your marking.Check this panel on the other side of the framebefore using it as a cutting pattern for the secondside. Cover all side surfaces of the frame withglue (except the temporary molds) and mountthe two side panels. When nailing into thechines, use a backing iron to properly set thenails without breaking the chines.

Once the chine edges of the side panels havebeen trimmed, you can install the bottom panels.If you want to be on the safe side, make apattern of the forward half of each panel (wheremost of the curve is) from low-grade 1/4-in. ply-wood. Using this plywood pattern, cut the 3/8-in.panel slightly oversize and tack it in place. Makesure that the inner edge lines up perfectly withthe center line down the keelson, but leave abit of extra material at the chine. Now coat allbottom surfaces of the frame with glue (again,excluding the temporary molds) and secure thefirst half of the bottom in place. You can avoidripples or bulges in the planking by lightlysecuring the panel at either end with a fewloose screws, then nailing from the middle ofthe panel toward the ends. Finally, use a sawto continue the shallow forward angle of theintake block through the plywood planking.

Before mounting the second half of the bottomplanking, put the panel in place and recheck thefit, especially at the center line. Trim as necessaryand repeat the process of gluing and fastening,Fig. 17. After trimming surplus stock at thechines, plane a 1-in. flat strip down the centerline to receive the keel and stem band: To com-plete the planking, saw the plywood edge of theintake cutout to match the forward angle of theintake block, Fig. 18.

fiberglassing the hullIf you plan to fiberglass the boat (and we

strongly recommend it), this should be donebefore applying the keel and stem band, sprayrails and sheer molds. Following the manufac-turer's instructions, apply one layer of 8-oz. clothwith sufficient resin to bond and fill as required.When you have completed this step, the keel andstem band may be applied, Fig. 19. This shouldbe a strip of white oak measuring about 3/4 x 1 in.Use bedding compound under the band, andfasten it with screws. An aluminum half-oval

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The forward floorboard panels must be cut to followthe curve of the hull but shouldn't contact planking

cutwater may be added, if desired, but not untilthe hull has been painted.

The spray mold is mounted next, Fig. 7, afterwhich the entire hull should be primed and thebottom painted with a good quality marine paint,Fig. 20. Don't paint the sides yet, since somefastenings will have to be made through themwhen mounting the steering system and controlstand.

Before turning the boat right side up, preparea cradle matched to the underside contour sothat it will support the hull at three places—thetransom, station 5 and just forward of station 2.This cradle should be level, free of twist andpadded so that it won't damage the finish.

Once the hull has been turned, you are readyto mount the sheer mold and header mold. Thesheer mold, Fig. 6, is made from 1 x 2 stocktrimmed and beveled as illustrated. Use screwsto mount it, running them through the moldand planking into the sheer shelf. Rememberto use bedding compound under the mold. Theheader mold, Fig.10, is cut from a piece of 1-1/4in. stock wide enough to follow the curve of thebow. In order to fit the plywood planking, theinner surface of this mold must be beveled. Theouter surface may be left square since it willbe covered by aluminum molding. When mount-ing the header mold, make sure that its uppersurface is even with the upper surface of thesheer shelf and bend it to a slight crown so that

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it will be slightly higher amidship. After apply-ing bedding compound, attach this mold withscrews running through the planking just abovethe header.

After fairing and trimming the edges of theheader mold, the decking can be installed. Bevelthe forward ends of the 1 x 2 deck beams to

. match the angle of the planking. After installingthese, fair the crown of the deck with a battenbent to the correct curve. If you plan to fiber-glass the sheer shelf for its full length, don'tmount the 3/8-in. plywood fore deck until thisjob has been completed. The two pieces of thedeck are joined at the center line and overlap thesheer shelf about 1 in. so that the edge of thedeck will be a continuation of the line formedby the outside of the coaming.

The control stand, Fig. 21, may be mountedeither port or starboard, depending on your pref-erence. First, cut the 3/4-in.-plywood mountingpanel for the steering blocks and secure this tothe inside of the side planking in the proper posi-tion. If you plan to use a throttle lever ratherthan the aircraft-type throttle (which is mountedon the dash), cut and mount a block for this inthe position indicated in Fig. 9.

Secure the 1/2-in.-plywood leg to the inboardstringer and attach the dash panel to this leg, theunderside of the sheer shelf and the steering-block mount. After installing the forward panelto give the stand rigidity, use a hole saw or sabersaw to cut holes in the dash for the wheel, steer-ing cables, instruments and controls. Later, afterthe coaming has been installed, deck the standwith 3/8-in. plywood and add a narrow rim ofquarter round or scrap square stock to holdcigarettes, sunglasses, etc., on the stand. Sincethe top of the stand will be varnished to matchthe coaming, countersink all fastenings and plugthe holes with wood putty.

seats cut from plywoodThe seat bottom and forward seat bulkhead,

Fig. 21, are cut from 1/2-in. plywood. The under-seat dividers, which also serve as seat supports,should be 3/4-in. plywood notched for the cleatsmounted on the seat back and forward-seat bulk-head. The ends of the seat are supported bycleats attached to the side planking. Beforesecuring the forward-seat bulkhead, treat all un-derseat surfaces with a good wood preservative(Penta or similar) and floor the outer storagecompartments with 1/4-in. plywood. The centercompartment, which will hold the battery box, isnot floored. After securing the cleats, dividers

The strong initial thrust of the turbo-jet powerplant makes this packet a favorite of water skiers

and forward bulkhead, install the seat bottomusing a length of piano hinge.

Since the floorboards will receive extra-hardwear, they are cut from 1/2-in. plywood surfacedwith a resin-impregnated fiber permanently fusedto the wood (Harborite, Duraply or similar).You will have to take the floorboards up later,so use flatheaded screws to install them. Outerfloorboard panels will reach from the chine tothe center of the inboard stringer, center panelscover the space between the inboard stringersjust aft and forward of the seat. The outer for-ward panels, Fig. 22, must be cut to fit thecurve of the hull, but shouldn't come in contactwith the bottom planking. The panel under thecontrol stand must be notched in order to fitaround the leg, and a cutout added to this notchto allow clearance for the power cable whichruns down the inside of the leg. Use short panelsto floor the center section ahead of the seat so

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The transom cutout for the jet exhaust should be cutand tested for fit before gas tank is installed

that the shift lever, Fig. 26, can be mounted on asmall, well-braced panel for extra rigidity.

You are now ready to make the transom cut-out for the jet unit. As mentioned, the unit usedis a two-stage model manufactured by BuehlerTurbocraft, of Indianapolis, Ind. If you are con-sidering another unit, consult the manufacturerbefore you start to build the boat so that thenecessary modifications in construction can bemade beforehand.

Measuring up the center line on the outer sur-face of the transom, locate a point 6-1/2-in. fromthe outside of the planking and bore a 2-in. hole.Now set the jet unit on the intake block so that itis hard against the transom with the driveshaftat the aft end protruding through the hole. Placethe point of a compass on the center of the drive-shaft and scribe a circle for the jet exhaust tothe dimensions given by the manufacturer. Re-

Bedding compound must be used when installing thejet unit and all other through-hull fastenings

move the jet unit and cut out this circle with a.saber saw, then replace the unit and markcenters of the mounting-base holes for drilling.After locating and drilling these holes, Fig. 24,put the jet unit aside and complete the transom.

If you plan to purchase a gas tank rather thanbuild the tank detailed in Fig. 2, make sure thatit will fit inside the transom or you will haveto extend the transom to cover the tank. Beforeinstalling the tank, brace the transom with 1 x 3stiffeners cut to fit snugly between the longi-tudinal frame members. The long upper stiffenermust be cut to match the curve of the transomtop. The gas tank is held in place with metalstraps and sits on two legs which are mountedto the outer sides of the inboard stringers. Twoshort 1 x 3 deck beams help to brace i t .

After installing the gas tank, measure 11-1/2in. forward from the inner face of the plywood

A small diameter pipe running just inside the inboardstringer connects the shift lever to the jet unit

The low-profile walkover cover fits over the driveshaft, exhaust tubing, water hose and jet unit

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The shift lever mounts on a small, rigid floor paneloutside and slightly aft of the control stand

transom and construct a frame for the falsetransom. The two lower members of this framesit on top of the stringers. The upper member isnotched for the sheer shelves and curved tofollow the rear deck crown. If you wish to usethe two side compartments for storage, seal themoff from the jet-unit tunnel, floor them and cutaccess holes in the perforated-hardboard tran-som cover. The transom decking shouldn't beinstalled until you have completed the next step,fiberglassing the sheer shelf.

Bring the edge of the cloth about 3/4 in. downthe side of the sheer mold and just over the insideedge of the sheer shelf. The outer edge of thecloth will be covered by aluminum "J" mold, andthe inner edge will be masked by the coaming.Once you have completed the fiberglassing, thefore deck and transom deck may be installed.

Shape the coamings as shown in Fig. 5, anduse countersunk screws to fasten them in place.End coamings should be sawed to match thecrown of the deck as this curve is a bit difficultto achieve by bending. Since the coamings areto be varnished, plug the screw holes withwooden plugs.

Before installing the engine, jet unit and con-trols, Figs. 24-28, remove the floorboards andtreat all surfaces below the floorboard line withwood preservative (Penta or similar). Followthe manufacturers' installation instructions foreach unit, making cutouts as necessary in bulk-heads and transom. Be sure to use bedding com-pound on all through-hull fittings, Fig. 25, (i.e.,jet intake, motor exhaust, jet exhaust, etc.).Mount steering blocks to lead the cable fromthe quadrant across the inside surface of thetransom to the corner and under the sheer shelf

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new thrills with this jet boat, continued

to the control stand. Once the position of thecontrol cables has been established, the kneescan be installed. Make a cutout in one knee forthe control cables, then secure both by nailingthrough the side planking and toenailing into thebottom of the sheer shelf.

The quarter fenders, Fig. 29, can now beshaped and mounted. Use plenty of beddingcompound at these through-hull fastenings sincethe quarter fenders are mounted close to thewaterline. Don't install the half-round aluminummolding on the fenders until the boat has beenpainted.

The motor cover, Fig. 30, is simply a ventedbox with slanted ends and a removable top. Afterconstructing the frame and attaching the 3/8-in.plywood sides and ends, cut cleats to fit snuglybetween the side members of the upper frame.Bevel one of these cleats to match the angle ofthe rear of the box and mount it on the undersideof the top so that the beveled side fits flat againstthe rear frame member when the top is centered.Attach the other cleat toward the front of thetop and add a hold-down clamp to the front ofthe box to lock the top position. Two otherclamps mounted on the inside of the bottomframe members will hold the cover to the inboard

stringers. This engine cover is designed for usewith an Interceptor 100 marine inboard. If youplan to use any other engine, check the dimen-sions before you make the cover so that it canbe enlarged if necessary.

The walkover cover for the jet unit, Fig. 30,sits on the inboard stringers between the edges ofthe floorboards. Make sure that the threestiffeners clear the driveshaft and jet unit. Whenfinishing the top of this cover, be sure to addnonskid compound to the epoxy paint to avoidaccidents.

The removable transom cover, Fig. 31, ismade of perforated hardboard and fits underthe coaming. Use screws with cup washers toattach this cover to the frame of the false tran-som. If you have added storage compartmentson either side of the jet-unit tunnel, cut accessholes in the cover and line these holes with half-round molding rabbeted for the hardboard.

Before painting the boat, use surfacing com-pound (Duratite, Lakerfill or similar) to maskall outside through-hull fastenings. Complete thevarnishing first (transom deck, top of motorcover, coamings, top of control stand and foredeck), then prime all exposed wood surfacesabove the floorboard line and finish the sideplanking and interior with at least three coats ofepoxy paint. If you are using a spray gun, coverthe jet unit, engine and exposed steering blocks.Epoxy paint will give a smooth glossy surfacewhich becomes extremely slippery when wet, soif this is used on the floorboards you should addnonskid compound to the paint.

Once the finish dries, you may mount thealuminum molding on the quarter fenders andsheer. If you wish to use the boat before build-ing the lift-off deck and windshield, the hard-ware, instruments, controls, seat cushions andintake screen may now be installed. Two backcushions with snap fasteners were used in theprototype, located on heavy strips along the top.These snap on the male half of the fastenerswhich are mounted on the back of the seat.

intake screenThe intake screen, Fig. 3, should be the last

thing installed before putting the boat in thewater. While this may be purchased as an acces-sory to the jet unit, you may also build it athome or have it built in a local shop. All partsare of 1/8-in. mild steel except the skeg whichis made of heavier, 3/16-in. stock. After all partsare welded in place, the whole unit should begalvanized. Use bronze or galvanized flatheaded

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bolts to mount the screen, and remember to setthem in bedding compound. Drill the keelson forthe 1/2 x 3-in. bolt which is welded near the headof the skeg, and use plenty of bedding compoundhere, also. Be careful not to overtighten any ofthese bolts.

You will note that the aft end of the skeg isnot welded for a distance of about 3 in. If youhave made a slight error in building the boat orinstalling the jet unit, this section of the skegcan be used as a trim tab and bent slightly tooffset any tendency of the boat to pull to one side.Most boats won't require such an adjustment, somake sure that pulling isn't due to a poorly bal-anced load before you bend the tab.

The lift-off deck, Fig. 23, fits over the coam-ings with its inside edge hard against the outsideedge of the coaming. The fore edge should beraked 30 deg. and crowned to match the foredeck. Legs of the lift-off deck follow the outsideof the coaming and are fairings of the windshieldlegs. This "outer coaming" can be cut from1 x 2 stock and should follow the curve of theregular coaming except at the seat back. If youmake the curve a bit wider here so that the legsspring in slightly, you can be sure of a snug fitto the coaming.

Carriage bolts with large wingnuts are usedto attach the aft ends of the legs to the sheershelf. To hold the fore end in place, fasten blocksto the rear face of the forward crossbeam so thatyou can mount one half of a hold-down clampon each block and the other half on the coaming.For a heavier fastening, drill and tap one holein a common flat mending plate for a 3/8 x 1-in.thumbscrew and mount this on the inner face ofthe coaming. On the block, mount a corner ironwith one hole drilled slightly oversize for thethumbscrew.

Since the removable deck is to be varnished,countersink all fastenings and plug the holes withwood plugs or wood putty. The windshield frameis made of 1-1/4-in. mahogany and mounted with apiano hinge so that it can be folded down flat onthe lift-off deck. Hold-down clamps on the wind-shield legs hold it in an upright position. Theforward surface is decked with 1/4-in. mahoganyplywood, and two runners are mounted on thisso that their upper edges are level with the centerline of the deck to provide support for the wind-shield when it is in the down position. If youplan to do much running with the windshieldfolded down, it might be well to pad these run-ners and add small hold-down clamps to securethe windshield to the deck.

Use simple mortise-and-tenon joints when as-sembling the windshield frame, but don't gluethose joints where the upper part of the frameattaches to the long lower leg. These should befastened with oval-head screws and bedding com-pound so that the frame can be dismantled incase of glass breakage. After varnishing thewhole unit, cover the underside of all edges witha good quality weatherstripping. This not onlyeliminates rattles, but protects the deck finishand makes a watertight seal.

make a convertible topIf you wish to make a convertible top for the

boat, basic bow dimensions and mounting pointscan be obtained from Figs. 9, 10 and 11. Thelongest leg of the top bow is 33 in., the shorterleg mounted at right angles to it is 16 in. Thesedimensions will permit the top to fold over thewindshield and lay flat on the deck. In order toprovide sufficient surface for mounting the topfittings, you'll have to cut out a short section ofcoaming and replace it with a wider mountingblock. Shape the upper edge of the block tomatch the coaming and varnish it.

Any awning maker should be able to makethe top for you from the dimensions given here.Fit the forward edge with snap fittings and mountthe male parts of the snaps on the front of thewindshield frame. Eye straps mounted on thesheer shelf aft will take the snap fittings of theback strap. The top should be set with tension,but be careful not to make it too tight for it willtighten even further when wet and have a tend-ency to spring the windshield frame.

Once you have completed the boat and areready to put it on a trailer, the rear keel rollersmust be adjusted to provide clearance for theskeg. One method is to make a deep wedge cutin the center of the roller so that the hull restson the edges of the roller. If you can't providesufficient clearance by cutting the roller, eithersubstitute oversize rollers to hold the skeg orremove the rear roller altogether and substitute apair of rollers mounted on the rear crossmemberof the trailer as close to the keel as possible.

Don't think that the job is complete just be-cause the boat is ready to be put in the water.The minute you pull up to the launching rampwith this snappy job, curious bystanders willbegin to close in and the questions will start.You'll just have to get used to being the centerof attention.

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