Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods produces more than 400 products, including a full line of certified gluten free products and an extensive line of certified organic products from the USA. With a wide variety of whole-grain products—from flours and hot cereals to baking mixes and grains—Bob’s Red Mill has “whole-grain foods for every meal of the day.” Bob’s Red Mill is the nation’s leader in stone milling and is dedicated to producing natural foods in the natural way. They stone grind all common and many uncommon grains into flours and meals on over one-hundred-year-old mills. With all of the sophisticated knowledge of recent times, no machinery has yet been developed that grinds grains into flour as well as these slow-turning, flint-hard quartz millstones of the kind used by millers since ancient times.

...is made from stone ground high protein hard red wheat, rye, triticale, oat bran, oats, corn, barley, soy beans, brown rice, millet and flaxseed. This is the hot cereal standard of the whole grain world, and we make it!

...is a wonderful addition to any meal. Carefully selected from California’s finest rice crops, it cooks up beautifully and offers a heartier texture than short grain

rice. Brown rice is low in salt and a good source of dietary fibre and protein.

ALL NATURALWHOLE GRAINS

...is made by naturally separating the protective outer layer of the wheat berry from the endosperm and oil-rich germ. It is an excellent source of natural food fibre, and provides a healthy full-bodied texture when added to hot cereals, cold cereals, baked goods or sprinkled over soups, cereals, salads and more.

...is the nutritional heart of the wheat berry. With wheat germ, freshness is what counts. Add our high-quality germ to baked goods, use as a filler for meat loaves and balls, or to coat cookies, rolls, and breads, top a casserole, replace breadcrumbs – the uses are numerous. Just use your imagination! Because the natural oils are retained in wheat germ, refrigerate it to maintain freshness and nutrition.

Muesli was originally developed by a Swiss nutritionist at the end of the 19th century, and remains one of the world’s most popular cereals. Bob’s Red Mill Old

Country Style Muesli is a tasty blend of rolled oats, wheat, rye, triticale, barley, almonds, dates, raisins, sunflower seeds and walnuts. Muesli makes a delicious hot cereal. For a delicious breakfast, soak Muesli overnight in milk or yogurt to be eaten as the Swiss do.

02

branches

Angliss Beijing Food Service Limited 安得利(北京)食品貿易有限公司#59, Shunhuang Road, Huanggang, Chaoyang District, Beijing, China北京市朝陽區黃港順黃路59號 T. +86 10 8586 1619 | F. +86 10 8586 4880

Angliss Beijing Food Service Limited – Tianjin Branch安得利(北京)食品貿易有限公司 – 天津辦事處Rm 214,Yunhan Building, No.185 Qinjian Road, Hongqiao District, Tianjin, China天津市紅橋區勤儉道185號雲漢大廈214室T. +86 22 2655 8550 | F. +86 22 2655 8550

Angliss Shanghai Food Service Limited 上海安得列郎晴食品貿易有限公司Block B, 5/F, No.4 Building, No.1 Hongqiao Headquarters No.100 Zixiu Road, Minhang District, Shanghai, China上海巿閔行區虹橋鎮紫秀路100號 (近吳中路、合川路) 虹橋總部1號4號樓5樓B座T. +86 21 6073 2060 | F. +86 21 6073 2050

Angliss Shanghai Food Service Limited - Hangzhou Branch Company上海安得列郎晴食品貿易有限公司 - 杭州分公司Room 238-239, No.48 Shixiang Road, Xiacheng District, Hangzhou, China杭州市下城區石祥路48号238-239室T.+86 571 8681 0896 | F.+86 571 8681 0196

Angliss Guangzhou Food Service Co. Limited 廣州安得利福斯食品有限公司Unit 01-08, 25/F, Jia Xing Square, 22 Bai Yun Road, Guangzhou, China 廣州市越秀區白雲路22號嘉星廣場2501-2508室 T. +86 20 8323 5497 | F. +86 20 8323 5446

Angliss Chengdu Food Service Co. Limited 成都安得利福斯食品有限公司Unit 09-10, 26/F, Building A, Long Hu San Qian Xing Zuo Construction of North Road Section 3, Chenghua District, Chengdu, Sichuan, China成都巿成華區建設北路三段2號龍湖三千星座A幢26樓09-10室T. +86 28 8327 3722 | F. +86 28 8315 0922

Angliss Shenzhen Food Service Limited 安得利(深圳)食品有限公司Building 3B, Block B, Baosheng Industrial District No. 1 Mabu Road Bainikeng Village, Pinghu Town Longgang District, Shenzhen, China 深圳巿平湖鎮白坭坑村麻布路1號寶盛工業區B區第3B楝 T. +86 755 2885 7688 | F. +86 755 2585 3675www.anglissshenzhen.com.cn

Haikou Angliss Food Service Limited 海口安得利食品有限公司Villa #23, Midhill Garden, 1 Jin Mao Zhong Lu, Haikou, Hainan, China 海口市金貿中路1號半山花園別墅23楝 T. +86 898 8863 0698 | F. +86 898 8863 0318

Angliss Xi’an Food Service Limited 安得利(西安)食品有限公司North Gate of Daily Chemical Factory, No.7 Zhangba North RoadYanta District, Xi’an, China西安巿雁塔區丈八路7#南風日化北門T. +86 29 8873 4883 | F. +86 29 8873 2852

Hunan Angliss Food Service Limited 湖南安得利嘉食品貿易有限公司Baijiahe Warehouse, Changsha Railway Company, Xiangjiang South Road, Xinkaipu, Tianxin District, Changsha, China長沙市天心區新開鋪湘江南路長鐵總公司柏家河倉庫T. +86 731 8556 9552 | F. +86 731 8556 9553

Angliss Macau Food Service Limited 安得利澳門飲食服務有限公司52-58 Rua dos Pescadores, Edf Industrial Ocean II Fase 4-Andar C & D, Macau澳門漁翁街52-58號海洋工業中心2期4樓C&D室 T. +853 2886 2886 | F. +853 2886 2828

Angliss Singapore Pte Ltd232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6778 8787 | F. +65 6778 3966www.angliss.com.sg

PastryGlobal Food Service Limited 嘉寶食品有限公司Unit B, 3/F., Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong香港新界葵涌葵豐街38號Yoo Hoo Tower 3樓B室T. +852 2494 1900 | F. +852 3145 0756www.pastryglobal.com.hk

PastryGlobal Singapore Pte. Ltd.232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6933 9500 | F. +65 6774 0554

L’Atelier du Goût Hong Kong 賞味坊Shop A2, G/F, Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街38號大鴻輝中心二期地下A2鋪 T. +852 2615 0638 | F. +852 2615 2210www.atelierdugout.com.hk

foodtalk 名廚坊New Territories shop:G/F, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街38地下 T. +852 2615 0822 | F. +852 2615 0855

Hong Kong Island shop:G/F, 23 First StreetSai Ying Pun, Hong Kong香港西營盤第一街23號地下T. +852 2615 0338 | F. +852 2559 3938

Kowloon shop:G/F, 21 Nanking StreetJordan, Kowloon, Hong Kong香港九龍佐敦南京街21號地下T. +852 2615 9187 | F. +852 2615 9287www.foodtalk.com.hk

Him Kee Food Distribution Company Limited 謙記食品貿易有限公司3/F., East Asia Industrial Building, No.2 Ho Tin StreetTuen Mun, N.T., Hong Kong香港新界屯門河田街2號東亞紗廠工業大廈3樓 T. +852 2440 0756 | F. +852 2440 0405

Jetstar (Tsukiji) Hong Kong Company Limited 捷達 (築地) 香港有限公司Flat 801-804, 8/F., Tai Hung Fai Centre Tower 177-81 Container Port Road, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong香港新界葵涌貨櫃碼頭路77-81號大鴻輝中心一期8樓801-804室T. +852 2655 9133 | F. +852 2407 7418

Miumi Japan Food Co Pte. Ltd.232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6777 2112 | F. +65 6779 7666

Gourmet Cuisine Hong Kong Limited 高美食材香港有限公司Unit B, 9/F., Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街38號Yoo Hoo Tower 9樓B室T. +852 2494 1977 | F. +852 2439 5055

Gourmet Partner (M) Sdn BhdNo.7, Jalan Anggerik Mokara 31/45, Seksyen 31Kota Kemuning, 40460 Shah AlamSelangor Darul Ehsan, MalaysiaT. +603 5122 1601 | F. +603 5121 0601

Gourmet Partner Singapore(A Division of Angliss Singapore Pte Ltd)232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6602 0790 | F. +65 6778 0153

FoodPride21 Tuas Bay Walk, Singapore 128420 T. +65 6275 9275 | F. +65 6863 3855

03

contents

05

06 20

09

10

13

14

16

22

24

26

28

Hot TalkNorth American dining trends explained

Chef’s TalkGrand Hyatt Steakhouse’s Executive Chef, Patrick Shimada

Slice of the PastThe history of the American Diner

Talk of the Town & GlobeEvents, shows and new restaurants in Greater China and around the world

Sweet TalkChef-owner Crystal Chan of Malaysia’s Rui Patisserie

RecipesGreen Tea Velvet Cupcake with Chocolate Frosting

Amuse BoucheA word from Managing Director, Johnny Kang

Behind The StovesChef Nick Lee on Singapore’s “best roast beef restaurant”

Special ReportPairing the Best by Les vergers Boiron

Restaurant InsiderHenri’s Galley, a Macanese gem

Book TalkOn Food and Cooking by Harold McGee

Talk FreshThe finest beef from 1855

features

06 1614 26Nick Lee

Executive Chef of Lawry’s Singapore tells us what it

takes to work with an iconic brand franchise.

Dining in AmericaFrom locavorism to food trucks, we take a tour of

the contemporary American dining landscape.

Henri’s GalleyWe ask about the past, present and future of

one of Macau’s longest standing restaurants.

Patrick ShimadaThe Grand Hyatt Steakhouse’s Executive Chef and San Diego

native shares his favourite way of grilling steak.

Editor-in-Chief Janice Leung

Editor Grace Chan

Project Manager Winnie Wong

Creative Director Lucia Cahyaningtyas

Chinese Translation A Chan of RR Donnelley

Foodtalk is published quarterly by

Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd.

2013 © Copyright Angliss Hong Kong

Food Service Ltd. All rights reserved.

二十七期

總編輯 Janice Leung

編輯 Grace Chan

項目统籌 Winnie Wong

設計及藝術總監 Lucia Cahyaningtyas

翻譯 A Chan of RR Donnelley

Foodtalk 季刊由安得利香港餐飲有限公司出版

2013 © 安得利香港餐飲有限公司版權所有，不得翻印

Published by:

Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Limited

47-51 Kwai Fung Crescent

Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong

T. +852 2481 5111 | F. +852 2489 8861

info@angliss.com.hk | www.angliss.com.hk

出版:

安得利香港餐飲有限公司香港新界葵涌葵豐街47-51號電話 +852 2481 5111 | 傳真 +852 2489 8861

info@angliss.com.hk | www.angliss.com.hk

05

amuse bouche

“...we see tremendous opportunity in product range, brand awareness & potential for growth in dairy consumption in China”

“我們認為無論在產品系列、產品認知度以及奶類製品的增長潛力方面，中國市場均存在著非常龐大的機遇。”

第27期的Foodtalk與大家見面了！

安得利以及我們的母公司Bidvest最近都如往常一般非常忙碌。

首先，安得利香港將會歡迎「新特蘭足球會」這支英格蘭勁旅蒞臨香港特別行政區獻技，而之前Bidvest的英國分部BFS Group剛宣佈成為新特蘭的主要贊助商。新特蘭足球會與Bidvest的合作始於去年「投資非洲」的活動，有關活動的目的是要協助提升公眾對投資非洲的認知。我們非常榮幸能夠繼續發揮社區參與和回饋社會所帶來的協同效益。

球隊將會參與7月24-27日在香港舉行的巴克萊亞洲錦標賽，而安得利的夥伴及客戶已獲邀出席這場精彩賽事，一睹精英球員的風采。

此外，Bidvest亦擴大了中國內地的品牌覆蓋。Bidvest China Ltd.將會成為總統牌 (President) 產品在中國市場（包括零售）的獨家分銷商。我們認為無論在產品系列、產品認知度以及奶類製品的增長潛力方面，中國巿場均存在著非常龐大的機遇。

另一方面，安得利新加坡最近成立了Miumi Japan Food Co Pte.

Ltd.，以採購和牛、黑豚肉以及刺身級海鮮等優質日本食材為主。因此，現時本港負責採購優質日本食材的捷達（築地）香港有限公司將會重新塑造其品牌。而兩間公司將會擁有其各自的採購團隊，但由於採用相同的供應商，將能產生協同優勢，並加強知識和經驗的交流。

Boiron於6月25日在賞味坊舉行Pairing the Best廚藝比賽，來自7個國家的廚師及調酒師表現出色，用指定Boiron產品泡製出三道菜式及相配的飲料。

在這一期的Foodtalk，我們會繼續貫徹以地理的主題。今次的焦點是包括美國和加拿大在內的北美洲，你們將能深入了解全球頂級牛肉、北美的飲食趨勢等等。精彩內容，數之不盡！

江文喜亞洲區董事總經理

Welcome to the 27th issue of Foodtalk.

The worlds of Angliss and our parent company, Bidvest, have been busy as usual.

Angliss Hong Kong will be welcoming the great British football club, Sunderland Football Club to the Special Administrative Region. This is following the announcement that BFS Group, the British branch of Bidvest has become Sunderland’s principal sponsor. Since Sunderland’s first partnership with Bidvest last year in the “Invest in Africa” campaign, they have helped raise the profile of African investment, and we’re delighted to be able to continue our mutually synergistic values of community involvement and giving back.

The team will be in Hong Kong for the Barclay Asia Trophy, held July 24-27, and Angliss partners and customers have been invited to meet the top soccer players and watch the games.

Bidvest is also proud to extend our brand coverage is Mainland China. Bidvest China Ltd. will be the exclusive distributor for President products in the China market, including retail, where we see tremendous opportunity in product range, brand awareness and potential for growth in dairy consumption.

Angliss Singapore has recently established Miumi Japan Food Co Pte. Ltd. to source fine Japanese ingredients such as Wagyu, Kurobata and sashimi-grade seafood. Hong Kong’s current Japanese fine food arm, Jetstar (Tsukiji) Hong Kong, will be rebranded as a result. The two will have their own sourcing teams, but will benefit from the synergy created through common vendors, as well as experience and knowledge sharing.

On June 25, the Les vergers Boiron “Pairing the Best” culinary competition took place at L’Atelier du Goût. Chefs and mixologists from seven countries made three dishes with a paired beverage using specified Boiron ingredients.

In this issue of Foodtalk, we’ll be continuing with our geographical theme. This time the spotlight is on North America – the United States of America and Canada – expect to read all about some of the world’s best beef, North American food trends and more.

Johnny KangRegional Managing Director – Asia

06

The Roast to Success燒牛肉的成功之路

After 14 years with the Singapore branch of storied roast beef restaurant Lawry’s, and 30 years in the industry, Executive Chef Nick Lee shares his story about beef, Lawry’s The Prime Rib in Beverly Hills and his relentless pursuit of creativity.

Lawry’s新加坡分店的行政總廚Nick Lee在這間享負盛名的燒牛肉餐廳服務已有14年，而在業界的經驗更長達30載之久。在以下的訪問中，他將會與我們分享有關燒牛肉、美國加州比華利山的Lawry’s The Prime Rib以及他對烹飪創意不懈追求的點點滴滴。

F (Foodtalk): What are the challenges of working at a steakhouse?L (Nick Lee): It is both a challenging but a satisfying environment as consumers in today’s context are much more educated, well-travelled, and knowledgeable and in fact many are actually gourmet epicureans. Therefore their demands and desires are relatively higher. Whilst we have our meat supplies coming from similar suppliers, it is the skill-set and the experience of the chefs to master the techniques of dishing out a piece of premium quality meat without losing its tenderness, freshness and consistently maintain its quality. Guest often praises my team for the wonderful dining experience, both attributed with service and food quality and the latter is a form of gratifying satisfaction.

F (Foodtalk): 在扒房裡工作有甚麼挑戰？L (Nick Lee): 這裡充滿著挑戰，同時亦充滿著滿足感。今時今日，顧客的教育程度更高，經歷更加豐富，見識也更加廣博，當中有不少是真真正正懂得享受的老饕。因此，現今食客的要求高了很多，對食物的渴求也不一樣。雖然我們的肉類來自大同小異的供應商，但是要保持水準地炮製出一道高級燒牛肉，而不失其新鮮、嫩滑，關鍵在於廚師的手藝和經驗。食客常常對我們團隊奉上的美妙用餐體驗讚賞有加，他們非常滿意我們的服務，對我們食物的品質更是讚不絕口。

許多食客都將我們譽為新加坡最頂級的扒房之一。但是，我們的招牌及核心產品其實是我們的慢燒頂級牛肋排，而我個人深信這是獅城最佳的燒牛肉。為了向食客提供更多選擇，我們的餐牌上現時也有燒牛扒供應。

07

behind the stoves

Many have regarded us as one of the top steakhouses in Singapore in many consumers’ perspective. However, our signature and core product is our slow roasted prime ribs of beef, and personally I believe we serve the best roast beef in town. To provide more options to our cliental, we also include Steak on Grill as choices and alternatives.

F: You had a hand in designing the kitchen for Lawry’s current location. What were some challenges in the design process?L: This project has to be gained from years of experience and an evidently a full understanding of how each section of a kitchen functions. When you want to design a kitchen, the considering factors no longer constraint to just about cooking. Knowing and understanding the concept and the work process flow of each section are clearly criterions to design a good and functional kitchen. Constant communications with the designer is vital as most designers who are able to design a kitchen will not fully understand its work process flow and many intricacies. For instance, if you were to place the dishwashing area in the kitchen front, restaurant guests will then hear clattering noise causing unpleasantness for them. Also when the plates are collected and sent to the stewarding section for washing, the area around it will be jammed up. Hence the flow is very important, [the chef] must know the kitchen and its work process well, and knows which equipment [is needed] in each area.

F: What are some highlights or tips you would give to others about designing a good kitchen?L: Understanding the product mix is a critical criterion. Apart from that, knowing the type of equipment needed is another important agenda. This is due to the fact kitchens are normally not very big. You will need to constantly communicate with the designer and the contractor and continuously visit the site to check on the installation. Most often, aesthetically looking kitchen versus practical designed kitchen does have a difference when it commenced function. Hence [When you go onto the site] you can make changes very quickly. You have to be involved every second, every minute.

F: Lawry’s evokes old-school, historical grandeur. How do you uphold these values and keep your quality consistent?L: Lawry’s has garnered a very good brand name in the world since 1938. The brand believes in quality and has been very strict about it. All the chefs are required to be posted to [the original Lawry’s in] Beverly Hill to train for five weeks. So that when you come back, you can make sure the quality is exactly like Beverly Hills.

F: 你參與了Lawry’s現有廚房的設計。在過程中有甚麼挑戰？L: 要做好廚房的設計，必須具備多年的經驗，並對廚房中每個區域的功能有透徹的理解。當你打算設計一間廚房時，不應只考慮到煮食方面的因素。我們必須知道每個區域之所以存在的理念以及當中的工作流程，這樣才能設計出一間實用的好廚房。與設計師多作溝通也非常重要，原因是大部份的設計師未必完全了解廚房的工作流程以及箇中的細微之處。舉例來說，如果你把洗碗碟區設於靠近廚房的前方，食客就會聽到噪音，這會影響到他們的用餐經驗。此外，當碗碟送到相關區域進行清洗時，該區域也會變得十分擠塞。因此，工作流程的考慮是非常重要的，[廚師]必須熟悉廚房，並深入了解其運作，以及每個區域[所需的]設備和工具。

F: 對於其他需要設計廚房的人士，你有甚麼建議或想強調的地方？L: 了解產品組合是相當關鍵的。此外，我們也需要知道所需的設備和工具類型，箇中原因是廚房一般並不是很大。你需要與設計師和承包商保持溝通，並前往地盤實地視察設施的安裝情況。許多時候，看上去美輪美奐的廚房，抑或是以實用為主的廚房，在開始運作時，用家就能感受到箇中的差異。而在地盤時，你就可以很快地作出改動。簡而言之，你時時刻刻都需要參與其中。

08

** This article is provided by Angliss Singapore Pte Ltd.** 文章由安得利新加坡提供

As we are a Licensed Restaurant, there are a lot of things we are unable to change especially the main menu. Since 1938, customers have still been coming back thus keeping its re-patronage system successfully. Some are very elderly guests, others bring their children, who eventually grow up and come back too. Our roast beef has been the same since 1938 – the taste, everything. In Singapore, consumers’ palates are different, so they requested for other dishes of which we have since added. For example steaks, scallops, foie gras and spatchcock.

F: What else would you like to share with us, and fellow chefs?L: Innovation is the key to success hence when I create a menu, I try to think out of the box. Ten years ago, I created a steak flambé. Normally, [by the time it reaches the guest] it’s just a steak, but I have named it – “Flaming Tornado”, because when it reaches the guest, it’s still flaming which excites guest and creates vast attention amongst other diners. I have created a unique presentation for its expertly-grilled steaks by reengineering the plain looking hotplate into a visually appealing art piece that promises to bring this dining experience into a whole new dimension. Embracing the slogan “Savour the finer things in life”; has become a whole new mission when I’m creating innovative concepts.

To conclude, as a Chef, passion, consistency, acute foresight, know our customers and constantly keep abreast with the culinary trends will allow young chefs to grow and achieve good recognition in the industry.

As the saying goes, “We can teach from experience but we can’t teach experience”. Hence hard work does pay off!

F: Lawry’s令人有經典、懷舊的感覺。你如何在緊守這些傳統價值的同時，令餐廳的品質能夠持續保持高水平？L: 從1938年起，Lawry’s就在全球享有非常良好的品牌聲譽。我們深信品質的重要性，所以對品質的要求十分嚴格。所有的廚師都需要前往美國比華利山的[Lawry’s總店]接受5個星期的培訓。所以，當你完成培訓後，你就能確保烹調菜餚的品質與比華利山的出品如出一轍。

因為我們是一間特許經營店，許多東西都是我們不能改變的，特別是主餐牌。自1938年以來，很多熟客一直對我們眷顧有加，讓我們成功維持著穩定的顧客群。他們有些是已經上了年紀的長者，有些則攜著下一代到我們的餐廳來。有些小男孩、小女孩長大了，更成為我們新一代的顧客。自1938年開始，我們燒牛肉的口味以至一切優良傳統都從未改變。當然，在新加坡，人們的口味出現了一些變化，所以他們會有其他的菜式要求，而我們的餐廳亦推陳出新，加入了牛扒、帶子、鵝肝和雞肉等等。

F: 你還有甚麼東西希望與我們以及其他廚師分享？L: 創新是成功之道，所以當我創作新菜式時，會盡量別出機杼。十年前，我創作了一道火焰牛扒。一般而言，[當這道菜式到達食客的餐桌上]，火焰往往已經熄滅。但我給它起了一個名字——「火焰龍捲風」！因為當它送到食客桌上時，火焰仍然在燃燒，令食客為之振奮，並吸引了很多其他食客的注意。

此外，對於我們的燒牛扒，我也創作了一個獨一無二的展示形式，使其平凡的熱碟變成一件看上去非常悅目的藝術品，從而把用餐經驗提升到另一全新的層次。我的座右銘是「享受生活中每個精緻的細節」，這成為了我創作新意念背後的一份使命感。

總括來說，作為一名廚師，熱情、貫徹和遠見都是非常重要的。而年輕的廚師要能夠日漸成長和在業界取得良好聲譽，就必須了解顧客的需要，並緊隨飲食界的最新趨勢。

正如有人說：「經驗教曉我們很多東西，而且都是不可或缺的。」所以努力是必定會得到回報的！

09

special report

Pairing the best is an exciting brand new international culinary and mixology pairing competition created by Les vergers Boiron. The first ever finale was held in L’Atelier du Goût in Hong Kong on 25th of June with 7 teams coming from China, Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, South Korea, Indonesia and Singapore competing for the title. This competition was endorsed by WACS.

The team consists of one culinary chef and one mixologist to prepare a well-balanced 3 courses menus using specified Les vergers Boiron range of products with a pairing beverage. For appetizer, the teams put together scallop with citrus fruit purees; for main course, they use Kobe Cuisine M6 wagyu strip loin with vegetable purees; and as a final touch, a plated dessert was presented using purees from the orchard range.

Judge panel:Mr Alain Boiron – CEO of Les vergers BoironMr Theo Watt – Drinks Magazine and MixologistMr Rudy Muller – Chef at Hong Kong Disneyland Resort, WACS memberMr Jennings Pang – Chef at Hong Kong Jockey Club, WACS memberMr Eddy Leung – ProChef Concept, WACS member

The champion: Chef Ng Choon Wee and Mixologist Fadli Sujebto from Singapore received USD 1,500 and a trip to France, be treated a Michelin starred dinner in Paris and a discovery trip to Les vergers Boiron in Valence, South France.

First runner-up is awarded to Chef Lin Wei Jen and Mixologist Chang Kao Wei from Taiwan and second runner-up is awarded to Chef Danny Leung and Mixologist Wallace Lau from Hong Kong. They took home monetary award of USD 1,000 and USD 500 respectively.

“Though I had experience in competition, it’s the first time I have to pair up with a mixologist. This makes the competition really exciting and challenging. We only have one month to plan and design our menu – we work hard to deliver the “pairing” chemistry in our menu, “ said Danny Leung from Disney’s Hollywood Hotel. “Despite I don’t know much about hot kitchen skill, in the competition, I have to collaborate with chef to present the courses and beverage orderly. Intensive efforts are made to complete the task and we were happy with the results, “ said Wallace Lau from Fatty Crab Hong Kong.

“Pastry remains a key market for Les vergers Boiron. However, we want to open the market to bars and restaurants, hence, the organization of the Pairing the Best competition. The aim is to promote the use of our purees and IQF in food and beverage, as well as the art of the combination of both, pairing. Our products are used in sweet applications, but are extremely relevant in savoury and beverage applications. This competition, which is the first Asia-wide competition organized by Les vergers Boiron, has shown very good food/beverage pairing by the seven teams of culinary chefs and mixologists.

We notice some food and beverage paired more or less well, upon colour, taste and texture. Knowing the various combinations of flavors is very important. That is one of the reason why we developed a partnership with Foodpairing.com , a website which is a source of inspiration that allows chefs, bartenders, and others in the food industry to create new combinations of ingredients for dishes or drinks, by providing an objective overview of possible pairings, based on scientific flavour analysis.” – Alain Boiron

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All Aboard Macau’s Fast Ferry 屬於海的澳門餐廳

Raymond Vong’s father, Henri Vong, founded Maxim’s Henri’s Galley in 1976. He has been a cook at sea, working on boats and feeding sailors and travellers. Even after deciding to settle on land, his love for the ocean, cuisine and foresight about Macau’s tourism industry, prompted him to open a restaurant with views of the water. Today, it overlooks the lake and the city’s vertiginous icon – the Macau Tower.

Raymond Vong的父親Henri Vong於1976年創立了美心亨利餐廳。Henri曾經在船上當過廚師，為水手以至乘客烹調美食。即使後來重返岸上工作，他對海洋及美食的熱愛卻絲毫未減。其後，Henri看到澳門旅遊業的發展潛力，於是就開設了一間湖畔餐廳。時至今日，這間餐廳除了面向湖景之外，亦能看到高聳入雲的地標澳門觀光塔。

restaurant insider

Raymond took over from his father a decade ago, and has made it his mission to continue his father’s legacy of serving hearty Macanese dishes amid this rapidly changing city. He speaks to us about the restaurant’s history and values, as well as the future of Maxim’s Henri’s Galley.

F [Foodtalk]: What prompted your father to open a restaurant here?V [Raymond Vong]: At that time, it was his interest in the kitchen. Macau has always been a tourist destination, so he thought the restaurant business would be a sustainable one that would be stable for a long time. The environment was serene – it was facing the ocean, although now it’s been reclaimed, it’s still a lake – and he liked being able to see a body of water, so he decided to settle here.

F: When did you take over?V: 2003 after SARS. I’ve retained the same signature dishes – beer chicken, crab curry – so nothing has changed since I took over. Our core values haven’t changed, we’re still all about offering these classic dishes.

F: How would you describe Henri’s Maxim core offerings?V: Portuguese food in Macau has three branches. The first is Portuguese cuisine brought over from Portugal. Then we have indigenous cuisine of the Portuguese who have been in

Raymond自從十年前接手父親的生意後，矢志發揚餐廳的傳統，繼續為澳門這個快速變遷的城市提供豐盛的地道美食。以下他將與我們分享餐廳的歷史和價值，以至美心亨利餐廳的未來大計。

F [Foodtalk]: 是甚麼促使你父親在這裡開餐廳的？V [Raymond Vong]: 當時，我父親非常喜歡在廚房做菜。澳門一直都是旅遊勝地，所以他覺得餐飲業應該是一門相當穩定、可以長久從事的行業。餐廳的環境相當宜人，面向著一片海洋；雖然現時已變成了填海土地，但仍然有美麗的湖景。我的父親非常喜歡看到水，所以就在這裡開了自己的店。

F: 你是在甚麼時候接手的？V: 是在2003年沙士爆發之後。我仍然保留了那些招牌菜式，例如啤酒雞、咖喱蟹等等。自從我接手之後，變動並不大。我們的核心價值絲毫沒變，我們仍然繼續提供那些經典菜式。

F: 你會如何描述美心亨利餐廳所提供的主打菜式？V: 澳門的葡國菜有三大分支。第一種是葡萄牙人由葡萄牙引入的菜式。第二種則是土生葡國人的菜式，他們許多代都在澳門，有些甚至進行異族通婚，所煮的菜式都是基於祖先一代一代傳下來的菜譜，作一點變化。最後，則有我們的澳門菜。由於我們是華人，所以煮出來的葡國菜有著本身的特色。舉例來說，非洲雞是源自在澳門海岸為葡國政府打仗的莫桑比克士兵。他們將這種煮雞的特別方法帶到澳門，所以當地人就將這種菜式稱為「非洲雞」。對於此一菜式，我們也作了輕微調整，以配合本地人的口味。

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Macau for multiple generations, perhaps of mixed race, who have built upon the recipes their ancestors left them. Lastly we have our style, Macanese. Since we’re Chinese, we have our own influences on Portuguese cuisine. For example, African chicken, which came from the Mozambican soldiers who were the first to arrive on behalf of Portugal on Macau’s shores. They brought this way of cooking chicken, and locally it became known as “African chicken”. We’ve also changed the recipe little by little to suit local tastes.

F: Your salted cod fish with potato strings is delicious too, what makes yours different?V: Salted cod fish with potato strings is also another classic dish. The salted cod fish comes from Portugal, and the cooking method is close to the original, although it has been changed slightly. In Macanese cuisine, we use a Chinese wok sometimes, instead of the flat pans and grills used in Portugal. When the first Portuguese arrived, they didn’t have all the equipment and ingredients they needed, so they used Chinese ones, like laap cheung (Chinese preserved sausages), and that’s what makes Macanese food unique.

F: It always feels homely here, how many people do you seat?V: You’ll see that around the restaurant, the décor has a nautical theme; lots of boats, for example. The restaurant is quite casual, and isn’t that big. It seats around 40 people, so it feels quite cosy, so our operations are also family style.

F: 你們的炸薯蓉馬介休球也非常美味，當中有甚麼獨門秘訣？V: 這是我們的經典菜式之一。鹽製馬介休是來自葡萄牙的，而煮法也非常地道，但經過輕微的改良。在烹調澳門菜時，我們有時會用中國鍋，而不像葡萄牙當地人會用平底鍋和燒的方法。當葡萄牙人初到澳門時，由於他們沒有帶備所有相關的煮食工具及材料，所以就地取材，使用了中國的食材，例如臘腸。這就是澳門菜之所以獨一無二的原因。

F: 你們的餐廳總是給人「家」的感覺，這裡的座位有多少？V: 如果你留意餐廳的四周，就會發現我們是以海洋作為主題的。例如，當中有著如數家珍的船。餐廳比較休閒，不算很大，只能坐40人左右，因此氣氛絕不拘謹。我們是屬於家庭式的，所有食客都會有賓至如歸的感覺。

F: 在你接手餐廳的十年間，出現了甚麼變化？V: 競爭大了，但生意也多了。澳門人現時的收入有所增加，此外遊客也越來越多。澳門的消費水平似乎比香港還要高。這裡食材的成本較高亦是原因之一。我們的許多進口食材都是經過香港運抵澳門的，因此產生額外的運輸成本。在過去十年，雖然食材的價格提高了，但種類也變得日益多元化，我們的選擇也多了。舉例來說，過去如果我們想採購優質的牛扒，幾乎是不可能的。此外，以往有些蔬菜十分昂貴，並非所有人都能負擔得起。但時至今日，許多的大型賭場都設有餐廳，對於這些產品的需求也有所增加，我們就得以採購這些食材。這可以說是一大進步。

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restaurant insider

F: In the decade that you’ve taken over the restaurant, how have things changed?V: There has been more competition, but there’s been more business too. Locals, for example, now have higher incomes, and there have been more tourists. Spending in Macau is higher than in Hong Kong. That’s also because the cost of our ingredients is higher here. Most of our imported ingredients have to go via Hong Kong, so there’s that extra transportation cost. In the past ten years, the range of available ingredients has increased, even though it now costs more, we have more choice. For example, if we wanted to procure higher quality steaks before, it wasn’t really possible. Or vegetables, which were very expensive and couldn’t be afforded by everyone. As there are now large casinos with many more restaurants, the demand for these products has increased, and we have more opportunities to procure these ingredients, which is an improvement.

F: What do you think is most important about running a successful business?V: People. Some have worked with us with more than 30 years. We’re not a fast food chain, so we don’t have a strict system on how things operate. For fast food, you hardly need a person – you use a computer and the customer gets a ticket. Restaurants are much more personal.

F: Who are your clientele? V: We get local Macanese, Hongkongers, as well as international visitors. A lot of international magazines and publications, like Lonely Planet, have interviewed or included us. Visitors in particular seem to appreciate our view.

F: How do you come up with new dishes?V: Some clients have particular requests, and so we just do our best to cater to them.

F: Have you ever thought about expansion?V: It depends on what opportunities arise. A lot of factors have to come together before expansion can happen, you can’t do this alone or overnight. Opening up a new restaurant isn’t the hard part – all you need is money – but keeping it running well is.

F: 依你所見，要經營成功，當中有甚麼致勝之道？V: 人才非常重要。有些員工已經在我們的餐廳服務超過30年。我們不是快餐連鎖店，所以對於營運的方式，並沒有一套嚴格的制度。在快餐店裡，機器也可以服務顧客，員工並沒有那麼重要。像我們這一類的餐廳，人情味往往比較濃厚。

F: 你主要的食客是那幾類人？V: 他們包括澳門人、香港人以及全球各地的遊客。Lonely Planet等許多國際雜誌和刊物，都有來訪問我們或者將餐廳放到他們的介紹當中。遊客對我們的景觀似乎特別欣賞。

F: 你的新菜式是如何創作出來的？V: 有些是食客特別要求的，我們會盡量迎合他們的需要。

F: 你有否想過擴張？V: 這要視乎時機。要有天時、地利、人和，擴張才能成事，這並非憑一人之力或一時三刻可以完成。開一間新的餐廳並不難，有足夠的資金就可以了，但最大的挑戰是如何能夠營運得好。

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book talk

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ON FOOD AND COOKINGby Harold McGee

Harold McGee的《食物與廚藝》

In 1984, a professor at Yale University wrote a book called On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. His name is Harold McGee, and he describes himself as “lucky” when thisbook led him to numerous accolades and put him on the mapfor all matters related to the science of cooking. Time Magazineeven called the book “a minor masterpiece”. It was probably more than luck that led to the success of this book, because till this day, On Food and Cooking is still a bookshelf essential for chefs, food scientists and food enthusiasts worldwide. McGee’s book happens to be one of the first comprehensive tomes written on the subject of food science. At the time the book was first released, the study of food was either purely nutritional or health-based, a vocational skill for chefs and cooks, or a pastime for amateurs who viewed food for its cultural, gastronomic value, and books would be written with one of these genres in mind, with little or no intention of overlap. McGee’s book sits cleverly at the intersection of all these groups, making it a reference book that is worth flipping back to, be it a nutritionist double-checking scientific properties of monounsaturated fats, or a cook looking for sugar substitutes in her pantry.

The original work was updated and expanded considerably in 2004, and continues to be of significant value to food professionals and enthusiasts. With a total of fifteen chapters, splitting food into logical groupings like milk and dairy, edible plants, and wine, beer and distilled spirits, the encyclopaedic nature of the book means it needn’t be read cover to cover. McGee’s science content and his ability to relate it to everyday cooking situations, is where he wins over other publications. For those less familiar with chemistry, or have left it behind in their high-school classroom, don’t fret, as there is a useful appendix with a chemistry primer too.

1984年，美國耶魯大學的一位教授撰寫了一本名為《食物與廚藝：廚房的科學及知識》(On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of

the Kitchen) 的書籍。這位教授的名字為Harold McGee，他覺得自己相當「幸運」，原因是該書為他帶來了多項榮譽，並使其幾乎成為烹飪科學的代言人。至於美國的《時代》週刊，更將這本書譽為「有關領域的經典之作」。其實，這本書的成功並非單靠運氣，因為直至今天，《食物與廚藝》仍然是世界各地廚師、食品科學家和美食愛好者的必讀書籍。McGee的著作可以說是有關食品科學這個課題首本較全面的專著。在這本書最初出版之際，有關研究食品只是純粹關乎營養或健康，是廚師的職業技能，另一些則以業餘煮食者為對象，並強調食物的文化、美食價值；而這些書籍的作者往往只著重當中的任何一類，對其加以整合的寥寥可數。McGee的書巧妙地融合這幾種題材，實在是一本值得反覆研讀的參考書，可以供營養學家查看單不飽和脂肪的科學特徵外，亦能協助廚師在製作甜品時查找糖的替代品。

這本書的初版在2004年經過大幅增訂，無論對飲食界的專業人士抑或美食愛好者來說，一直都是極具價值的參考書。全書共有十五章，有條理地將食物分為乳製品類、蔬果類以及紅酒、啤酒與白酒類等等，類似一本百科全書，所以無須全書通讀。McGee所撰寫的內容極具科學性，而且能夠切合日常的煮食情況，是比其他烹飪書籍出色的地方。至於那些對化學不大熟悉、或者已經忘記相關知識的讀者，不用擔心，書末包含一個非常有用的附錄，當中列有一些簡單的化學知識可供參考。

talk fresh

1 8 5 5 優 良 傳 統 ， 薪 火 相 傳

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1855, Where the Swift Legacy Carries On

Gustavus Franklin Swift, who gives his name to the Swift company, transformed the meat-packing industry forever when he developed a railroad car that was cooled by ice. It was the first time that dressed meats could be transported over long distances. From his base in Midwestern America, Swift began transporting beef all over the United States, and even overseas. 1855 is the year that the Swift journey began, and it is now also a G. F. Swift brand that celebrates this landmark in the history of meat-packing that Mr. Swift pioneered. It’s only natural then, that the 1855 brand is synonymous with some of the most coveted, hand-selected, premium beef from English-influenced cattle breeds.

The 1855 cattle are reared in carefully selected regions with some of America’s best cattle producers who meet 1855’s stringent standards. These are family ranchers who have devoted their lives to rearing top-of-the-range cattle, and their passion and professional expertise can be experienced with every bite. The cattle are finished on grain for a minimum for 100 days, for ideal, succulent marbling. In addition, they are meticulously hand-selected and meet precise carcass weight and rib-eye area specifications to ensure consistent cutability and plate presentation.

Swift公司的名字來自Gustavus Franklin Swift先生，他率先發明了用冰塊來冷凍的鐵路車，對牛肉包裝行業帶來了革命性的改變。Swift先生的發明開創了先河，使包裝肉類可以長途跋涉地運送。自此，Swift的牛肉產品從位於美國中西部的基地運往全美各地，甚至遠銷海外。「1855」是Swift公司的起步之年，同時亦是一個G.F.Swift品牌，用以紀念Swift先生為包裝牛肉行業帶來的這個歷史里程碑。如今，1855品牌已成為最炙手可熱來自英式牛畜品種、人工精選優質牛肉的代名詞。

1855牛隻在特選地區飼養，所選用的牛肉生產商均是美國首屈一指的牧場，且須乎合1855的嚴格標準。這些家庭牧場的飼養者傾其一生，專心致志牧養最優質的牛隻，在品嚐每口美味的牛肉之

talk fresh

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While you wouldn’t be mistaken if you believe that 1855 beef will guarantee you a beautiful slab of juicy steak, in the Asian market, a full range of cuts are appreciated. For Chinese hot pot restaurants, boneless short rib, boneless chuck short rib and chuck flaps are popular. Korean restaurants, barbecue in particular, prefer bone-in short rib and short plate. Hanging tender, ribeye and striploin are often the choice of Japanese restaurants, especially for shabu shabu (hot pot) and yakiniku (barbecue). Stewing beef, such as brisket and knuckle, are popular throughout the Pacific. Like the rest of the world, at fine dining institutions, such as high-end European outlets and steakhouses, the deluxe cuts of striploin, ribeye and tenderloin remain the choice of the discerning.

There are still untapped opportunities in 1855’s cuts, however. Rump steak and chuck tender present cost-effective opportunities for food operators to offer beef that is reared with care and selected meticulously. These cuts may prove suitable for quick service, or lower budget eateries.

Only the best restaurants and hospitality providers serve 1855 beef, and given the illustrious meat-packing history of the Swift name, the meats are transported expertly all over the globe. With specialists in export regulations, documentation and transportation, the company’s reliable air-sea transportation services offer on-time performance and dependable delivery to foodservice operators, processors and distributors.

Vinophiles will notice that 1855 was also the year that the famous classifications on Bordeaux wines were commissioned by Napoleon. There is little contest in the belief that the finest Bordeaux wines pair perfectly with the finest beef, which makes this serendipitous coincidence all the more meaningful.

間，你可以輕易感受到他們對締造優質牛肉的執著熱情及專業知識。這些牛隻至少會經過100日的穀物飼養，以產生鮮嫩肥美的雪花牛肉。此外，所有牛肉均經過人手精挑細選，以乎合對牛體重量的準確要求以及肉眼部位的規格，以確保牛肉切割的均勻性以及以最佳狀態在餐碟上呈現。

如果你選用1855牛肉烹製多汁味美的牛扒，它絕對不會讓你失望。在亞洲市場，食家還能享用一系列用不同部位牛肉烹製的美食。以中國火鍋餐廳為例，無骨的牛肋條、三角肩胛肥牛片和翼板肉都是非常受歡迎的選擇。至於韓國餐館，特別是燒烤店，食客則偏好有骨的短牛肋條和胸腹肉。而牛肝連肌、肉眼和牛前腰脊肉，則是日式shabu shabu火鍋和燒肉店的首選。在整個太平洋地區，牛腩和牛膝都是燉煮牛肉的理想之選。而在全球所有地方，高級的歐洲餐廳和扒房等的肉眼、裡脊肉和牛前腰脊肉，則是老饕的必吃上品。

儘管如此，1855牛肉也有一些人們有所忽略的部位。對尋找經過精緻飼養、精挑細選的牛肉的餐廳而言，後腿肉牛扒和嫩肩肉是經濟之選。對於主要提供快速服務、較大眾化的餐館來說，亦是不錯的選擇。

只有最頂級的餐廳及酒店會提供1855牛肉，而憑藉在肉類包裝方面的悠久歷史，Swift能為其肉類產品在全球的運輸過程中提供專業的照顧。憑藉在出口規例、文件記錄和運送方面的專家，公司可提供可靠的空運及海運服務，確保產品準時送達食品服務供應商、加工商和分銷商。

美酒愛好者可能會留意到，1855亦是拿破侖要求葡萄酒行業對波爾多的酒莊設立分級的一年。毫無疑問，頂級的波爾多佳釀加上最優質的牛肉，是無以尚之的完美配搭，這樣的巧合背後意味深長。

hot talk

16

Dining in America Now,and How it Got There

Joe Beef

From locavorism and degustation menus, to food trucks and bacon obsessions, dining in the United States and Canada today has never been more diverse.

由土食主義、品嘗套餐、餐車以至對煙肉的喜愛，今時今日美國和加拿大的飲食文化實在非常多元化。

多元化的美式餐飲營運模式

所有人都需要進食，但是現今的飲食與以往相比更多姿多彩。自從二次世界大戰結束後，美國這個國家大致上都相當繁榮穩定。

馬思勞（Abraham Maslow）是著名的美國心理學家，他在1943年提出了一項有關人類需要的層級理論，理論認為人類有著不同層級的需要。位於這個層級最底部的是基本需要，包括水和食物，至於較高級的需要則有道德和自尊。根據馬思勞這個現時已經相當膾炙人口的需要層級理論，在戰後的美國，隨著工業化和社會重現和平，人們在住所、日常用品和安全等方面的基本需要已經得到滿足。因此，北美的居民要求能夠滿足更高層次的需要（例如創意、道德），是非常自然的。

創意和道德是現代生活的兩大組成部份，所以相對應地，餐飲服務和飲食業也應運而生。美國今時今日的名廚，無論是高級餐廳的主管抑或餐車的擁有者，都具備這兩項特質。

對於飲食的社會及環保責任，Alice Waters經常被稱為是可持續飲食之母以及加州烹調哲學的先鋒。Waters生於1944年，十多歲時經歷了上世紀六十年代的自由言論運動，以至反越戰抗爭、胡士托時代以及高舉「要愛、不要戰爭」的一系列社會風潮。她將這種精神灌注於食物中，並於1971年在加州創立Chez Panisse餐廳，現時這間餐廳已經家喻戶曉。

Everyone needs to eat, but it seems that the culture of food has never been richer than it is today. Since the end of the Second World War, America has, generally speaking, been a stable and prosperous country.

Abraham Maslow, an American psychologist, proposed a hierarchy of human needs in 1943, which supposes that human have different levels of needs – from basic ones like food and water down below, and morals and esteem up the top. Applying the post-war situation into Maslow’s now-famous hierarchy, we can see that with industrialisation and the restoration of peace, the base needs of shelter, everyday supplies and safety have been satisfied. It would be natural, then, that the people of North America would be looking to develop their higher needs, such as creativity and morality.

Creativity and morality are two tenements of modern life that have also translated naturally into hospitality, and food and beverage industries. Many of American’s top chefs today, be they heads of fine dining institutions or food truck proprietors, are recognised for these traits.

hot talk

17

Martin Picard

of ‘Au Pied de Cochon’

Alice Waters

今時今日，四十多年過去了，Waters對加州餐飲界的影響可謂顯而易見。在美國西岸，食品及餐廳現時都以其可持續性及人性化生產而聞名，農夫市場及純素食餐廳舉目可見。不久之前，加州頒令銷售及生產鵝肝為犯法，就是此一影響的最佳體現。有關禁令列於加州的健康和安全守則之內，並於2012年7月1日生效。

但是在美國東北部的芝加哥，在2008年計劃通過類似法例卻大受挫敗。時任芝加哥州長的Richard M. Daley稱此一禁令為市議會有史以來所通過的「最無稽法例」。而在邊界另一端的加拿大，Au Pied de Cochon及Joe Beef這兩間位於蒙特利爾的餐廳，就是以提供大量的肥鵝肝而聞名，它們喜愛並一直都在「致力」維護吃鵝肝的權利。Joe Beef甚至在早餐時提供鵝肝三文治。此外，加拿大也有一套名為Epic Mealtime的網上節目，節目中的演員在每一集都會即場製作「極大份」的菜式，通常使用的都是垃圾食品以及大量的煙肉。他們其中一種原創「佳餚」為TurBaconEpic，就是把雞塞進鴨內，再把鴨塞進火雞當中，火雞再塞進一隻豬中，每一層都以煙肉填充。

今時今日的飲食文化實在十分趨向兩極。加州人喜愛乾淨、廣受歡迎的食物，但也有人熱衷於可能引致心臟病的大吃大喝。而這種兩極化也可以在今時今日現代北美的餐館服務業的發展中找到，從餐牌的長短以至服務形式可見一斑。

When it comes to the social and environmental responsibilities of food, Alice Waters is often hailed as the mother of sustainable eating and pioneer of Californian cooking philosophies. Born in 1944, she came of age at the height of the 60s Free Speech Movement, epitomised by events like the anti-Vietnam-War protests, Woodstock, and the “Make Love Not War” flower children who attended them. Waters brought that spirit to food, opening her now-famous Californian restaurant Chez Panisse in 1971.

Today, more than forty years on, Waters’ effect on Californian food is clear. Food and restaurants on the west coast of the United States are now known for their commitment to sustainability and humane production, with farmers markets and vegan restaurants abound. One of the defining moments came about when the sale and production of foie gras became illegal. It is written in the California Health and Safety Code in the State of California, and came into effect on 1 July, 2012.

Further northeast, however, Chicago retracted a similar law in 2008. Richard M. Daley, Chicago’s Mayor at the time, referred to the ban as “the silliest law” the City Council has ever passed. Over the border in Canada, a pair of Montréal restaurants, Au Pied de Cochon and Joe Beef, are almost notorious for their love for, and defense of, hefty servings of the fatty goose liver. Joe Beef even serves a breakfast dish called the foie gras breakfast sandwich. Also hailing from Canada is an online webseries called Epic Mealtime, where the show’s cast produce an ‘epically’ large, excessive dish each episode, usually with a junk food product and horrific amounts of bacon. One of their first creations was a TurBaconEpic, a turducken stuffed into a whole pig, layered with copious amounts of bacon all the way.

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hot talk

Thomas Keller

Grant Achatz

Wild, over-compensatory swings in gastronomic mood seem to be a hallmark of today’s food culture. Along with the clean, earth-loving ideals of California, we seem to crave artery-clogging excess. The nature of this dichotomy can also be found in the way the hospitality industry – from menu lengths to service format – have evolved in modern North American society.

Spanish culinary legend elBulli was known for its lengthy degustation menus that went for hours and would involve around two-dozen courses, but even before that, European restaurants had begun offering these menus, albeit with less courses. As a generation of American chefs staged in these establishments, they brought this innovation with them. American food writer Corby Kummer says one of the United States’ first proponents of the elaborate tasting menu, in which the diner had no, or little choice, was Charlie Trotter, whose restaurants have all closed as of 2012. After him came other fine dining chefs, such as Thomas Keller, and his protégée Grant Achatz, who, till this day, also insist on chef-led, fixed format menus.

From a technique perspective, these chefs have also innovated in forward thinking ways, often with the assistance of technology. Keller, for instance, while holding dear the Californian philosophy of locavorism, is an advocate of sous vide cooking, as evidenced by a book he authored on the subject, called Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide.

With the introduction of their restaurant, Next, Achatz and his business partner, Nick Kokonas, have also forever changed the way restaurants are run. Achatz’s food is avant-garde, and uses all the test tricks and gadgets, but that’s not the only thing that keeps the business going. Next doesn’t take reservations, but sells tables the way cinema seats are sold – through ticketing. The tickets can be transferred to another person. Tickets are in high demand and scalping is common, but in the view of the restaurateur, the table is pre-sold, and thus they are free of a factor that affects the business’s cash flow.

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hot talk

Kogi’s ‘Pacman’

burger

Roy Choi

But these days, foodies aren’t just chasing the next fine dining star. They’re looking for things on the other extreme on the pendulum too. Cue food trucks.

Hot on the other side of the food spectrum in North America are food trucks and lowbrow eating. Food trucks have always been a part of America, as seen in the hot dog trucks and pretzel carts in Manhattan. New chefs are now looking to innovate on grungy street food. After launching his first Korean-Mexican taco truck, Kogi, in Los Angeles in 2008, Roy Choi is now known as the godfather of the modern food truck. American food magazine Bon Appétit named Choi “Best New Chef” in 2009. Mission Street Food started off as a food truck project of then-line cook Anthony Myint, and now, with the help of fellow young chef Danny Bowein, has become one of America’s hottest restaurants, with outlets on both coasts of the nation.

Classical or avant-garde, high-end or lowbrow, sustainable or morally questionable, North American chefs and hospitality professionals are showing the rest of the world that there isn’t just one way forward.

西班牙的廚藝界神話elBulli以其甚長的套餐餐牌而聞名於世，套餐多達24道菜式，耗時幾個鐘。但是在此之前，歐洲的餐廳其實已經開始提供這一類的餐牌，只是菜式數目沒有那麼多而已。由於這類餐廳中有著不少新一代的美國廚師，所以他們也把這種創新的做法帶到了美國。美國的飲食作家Corby Kummer指出Charlie

Trotter是美國首位將大型套餐餐牌發揚光大的人，在他的餐廳裡，食客幾乎沒有選擇菜式的權利。可惜的是，在2012年，他的餐廳已經全線結業了。但是，Charlie Trotter後繼有人，Thomas Keller

以及他的弟子Grant Achatz今時今日仍然堅持提供這些廚師主導、形式固定的餐牌。

至於技術層面而言，這些廚師的思維往往也非常創新，而科技通常會扮演著一定角色。舉例來說，Keller除了宣揚加州的土食主義外，也提倡真空低溫烹調法，在其相關著作《壓力之下：真空低溫烹調法》(Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide)中可見一斑。

至於Achatz及其業務夥伴Nick Kokonas所創立的Next，則對餐廳的營運模式帶來了革命性的變化。Achatz所提供的菜式非常前衛，而且會用上各式各樣的招數和特別用具，但是這並非其營運的最大特色。Next不接受留座，而是好像戲院般賣票發售座位。而這些門票可轉讓他人。由於這些餐廳「門票」非常搶手，所以炒賣頗為常見。而對餐廳東主來說，由於座位已經售清，對餐廳的現金流是一件好事。

但今時今日，美食愛好者不只追捧飲食界新星，他們亦會懷舊一番，比如尋覓餐車。

在北美洲飲食的另一方面，餐車和平民食物相當流行。事實上，餐車一直都是美國飲食文化的一部份，例如是紐約曼克頓的熱狗車和椒鹽脆餅車。而新一代的廚師現正研發更新穎、更另類的街頭食品。例子之一就是Roy Choi，2008年他在加州洛杉磯推出了首部韓國墨西哥式夾餅車Kogi。Roy Choi因而被譽為現代餐車之父。美國的飲食雜誌Bon Appétit更將他選為2009年的「最佳新廚師」。另外，Mission Street Food也是一個例子，那是時任二廚Anthony Myint的餐車項目；而現時在年輕廚師Danny Bowein的協助下，該餐車已成為美國最熱門的餐廳之一，在美國的東西岸都設有分店。

無論是傳統或前衛、高級或平民、可持續或似乎不太乎合飲食倫理，北美的廚師和餐飲服務業專業人士都清楚向全球表明他們是絕不單調的！

20

FROM BEACHESTO BEEF

從沙灘到扒房

Lifeguarding might have been his initial career choice, but after he started working in the kitchen of his cousin’s restaurant

one summer, Patrick Shimada, Head Chef at Hong Kong’s Grand Hyatt Steakhouse, never looked back. Shimada is a fourth-

generation Japanese-American who grew up in San Diego, and has worked in a number of Hyatt hotels, his most recent

stop before Hong Kong being Kauai, one of the main Hawaiian islands. He grill him about his favourite haunts back home

and how he likes to cook his steak.

Patrick Shimada初出茅廬時的第一份工作是救生員；但其後在某個暑假，他到親戚的餐廳當暑期工廚師，自此廚房就成為他發展事業的地方，而他現任香港君悅酒店Grand Hyatt Steakhouse的總廚。Shimada是第四代日裔美國人，他在加州聖迭戈長大，曾服務於君悅旗下多間酒店。在加盟香港君悅酒店之前，他於夏威夷的考艾島工作。在是次訪問中，我們會問Shimada在加州最常光顧甚麼餐廳，以及他喜歡的牛扒烹飪方式。

Has your family always been into food?Kind of, my grandfather was in the army, and he was a cook. At all the family get-togethers, he would cook huge meals. He didn’t know how to cook small. One of my aunties asked him to make a key lime pie, he said “OK” and he made eight of them! Growing up, there’s always a huge spread of food at Christmas, Thanksgiving… and I always wanted to help. I always liked playing with food, and cooking it, so it’s always been there.

你的家人是否都熱愛美食？可以這樣說，我的祖父是軍人，曾在軍中擔任廚師。當我們一家人聚首一堂時，他會親自下廚煮一桌大餐。但有趣的是，要煮幾個人的小餐，對他來說卻是個難題。有一次，我有位阿姨叫他焗一個青檸批，他說「無問題」，然後就做了八個青檸批出來！在我成長期間，每年聖誕節、感恩節等節日，都可以吃到各式各樣的美食……而我經常都會幫忙。我很喜歡把玩食物，嘗試一下煮它們，所以美食一直都是我生活的一部份。

21

chef’s talk

The Steakhouse會提供那些部份的牛肉？牛柳、紐約牛前腰脊肉、肉眼扒，有骨無骨的都有；此外，還有加拿大的有骨牛前腰脊肉、牛肋骨等等。有骨的牛扒是來自加拿大的，但[現時]我們亦提供[美國的]有骨Tomahawk牛扒，而很快還會推出來自美國的有骨牛前腰脊肉。

你們用的是粟米飼養的牛肉還是草飼牛肉？粟米飼養的牛肉。我們選用的牛隻都是吃草的，並[在較後的時候]餵飼粟米或穀物，這樣牛肉會更甜美，並且能產生雪花。[大部份時間]牠們所吃的都是一般牛隻會吃的東西。我認為草飼牛肉的市場不是很大，因為……人們不習慣肉質比較粗的草飼牛肉。

你認為牛扒最好烹製方法是甚麼？我喜歡明火燒烤，可以用木炭或硬木，這樣烤出來的牛扒味道要比用燃氣燒的更好。在美國，關於牛扒怎樣煮最好眾說紛紜，但我絕對喜歡炭燒。

但在香港，室內是不可以燒炭的……如果法規允許的話，我一定會用煤炭或硬木，因為味道真的好很多。而木的選擇也很多。過去五年我在考艾島工作時，那裡的人很喜歡用Kiawe木，它有點像牧豆樹的木。牧豆樹的木味道最強烈，其次可選擇橡木、胡桃木、杏仁木、山核桃木，最次是果木。這些都是可以用來作燒烤之用的硬木。

說到美食，你覺得聖迭戈有甚麼絕對不容錯過的美食？聽來有點怪，但聖迭戈的墨西哥美食非常出名，我會推薦聖迭戈的炸魚粟米卷，真的很美味。看上去最骯髒、最破舊的粟米卷店，它們的[出品]是最好味的。在我祖父家附近就有一間粟米卷店，我以前經常到那裡買東西吃。你駕車經過時，可以看到那裡有一個旋轉窗口，玻璃有大約[四吋]厚，是防彈的，還有鐵欄。你經過時停車，放下錢，他們就會轉動玻璃收錢，然後再轉動玻璃，遞出食物。看上去似乎好危險，但我從來沒有遇到甚麼事故，但他們的粟米卷確實非常美味。

你最常光顧的餐廳有那幾間？在歐申海灘(Ocean Beach)有一間叫Wahoo’s的烤魚粟米卷店，它們的粟米卷真的好吃極了，而且有四、五款可選。它有一般常見的炸魚，[但]為了迎合[著重健康]的加州人，他們亦提供烤的。另一間我會推薦的叫做El Indio，其歷史可以追溯到1950年代。

What kinds of cuts of beef do you serve at The Steakhouse?Tenderloin, New York strip loin, ribeye, both bone-in and boneless, bone-in strip loin from Canada, short rib. The bone-in steaks were from Canada, but [now] we have bone-in Tomahawk [from the U.S.], and pretty soon we’ll have bone-in strip loin from the U.S.

Corn-fed or grass-fed?Corn-fed. All the beef is grass-fed and are corn- or grain-fed in its [last days] to sweeten the meat, and to create marbling. They’re eating what they’re supposed to eat [for most of their lives]. I think the market for grass-fed beef isn’t that big, because… people aren’t used to the grassy, game-y-ness.

What do you think is the best way to cook a steak?I like [cooking] it on an open-fire grill, whether it be charcoal or hard wood, it gives it better flavour than say, a gas grill. In the U.S. there’s a big debate, I’ll go charcoal all the way.

But charcoal isn’t allowed indoors in Hong Kong…If there were no rules, I would have charcoal and hard wood, because it gives it so much flavour. There’s a whole bunch of different kinds. Having been in Kauai for the past 5 years, everybody over there is into kiawe wood, which is like mesquite. Mesquite will give you the strongest flavour, a step down from that you have oak, then walnut, almond, pecan, then you get your fruit woods. These are the kinds of hard woods you want to use.

Food-wise, what shouldn’t people miss in San Diego?It sounds kind of funny, but being known for Mexican food, fish tacos in San Diego are really good. You look for the dirtiest, most run-down looking taco shack to get the best [tacos]. There’s a taco place right by my grandfather’s place, and I used to go down there to pick up food for us every so often. When you go through the drive-thru there, there’s a turn window, with glass about that [gesturing around 4 inches] thick; it’s bulletproof glass and bars on the window. When you go through, you put down your money and they spin the glass window, then they spin the food out. It looks pretty dangerous, but I mean, nothing ever happened to me there, and the food is good.

Where are some of your favourite places to eat?There’s a place called Wahoo’s fish tacos in Ocean Beach. Their fish tacos are out of control; they have 4-5 different kinds. They do it deep-fried, how normally your fish tacos would be, [but] being [health-conscious] Californians they also do grilled fish tacos. The other place is called El Indio. They’ve been there since the ’50s.

slice of the past

美式餐車簡史

AMERICANDINER

A SHORT HISTORY OF THE

22

It’s almost impossible to speak about food in America without mentioning the diner. Even though these inexpensive, all-day cafeterias have gradually been replaced in cities, towns and along the highways of the United States by fast food chains, to many, they remain a quintessential American experience.

要討論美國食品，就一定要提及美式餐車。儘管在該國的許多城市、鄉鎮以至高速公路旁，這些廉價、全天候服務的餐車已逐漸被連鎖快餐店所取代，但對許多人而言，它們仍然屬於一種非常獨特的美國式體驗。

Diners began as lunch wagons, not so different from the food trucks we know today, although given that this was the age before automobiles, they were horse-drawn wagons. The first record of this kind of wagon belonged to a man named Walter Scott. He worked for a printing company in Providence, Rhode Island, but started selling sandwiches and coffee from a wagon at night, to theatregoers, night shift workers and anyone else wanting a late night bite. His cart was known as a “night lunch cart”. Customers would buy their food from the wagon and stand or sit around nearby to eat. By 1872, it is said that he was so successful that he gave up his day job.

Following Scott’s success, other enterprising entrepreneurs quite literally jumped on the bandwagon, and within another decade or so, purpose-built “rolling restaurants”, with kitchens and provided shelter for diners and even indoor seating, had been introduced. Indoor seating was especially popular during wintertime to provide protection from snow. They soon became known as dining cars, after the fancy eating compartments on long-distance trains, and then by around 1925, the moniker was shortened to just “diner”. The set-up, however, was vastly different from train dining. The kitchen and cooking area ran along the length of the car, and seating was lined up along a bar, facing the kitchen. This configuration became the classic template for diners that we still see today.

這些餐車最初是以午餐車的形式出現，與今時今日的現代餐車分別不大。當然，那個時候汽車還未出現，所以它們是以馬車拉動的。根據文獻，第一架這樣的餐車是由Walter Scott所擁有的。他白天在羅得島普羅維登斯的一間印刷廠工作，而晚上則在餐車上售賣三文治和咖啡，服務對象包括觀看話劇的觀眾、夜班工人以及在夜晚想找點東西吃的人。所以他的餐車也稱為「宵夜餐車」。顧客會在購買食物後，在他的餐車附近站著或坐著吃東西。據說他的生意實在相當好，到了1872年Scott甚至辭掉白天的工作。

由於Scott非常成功，許多有生意頭腦的人也爭相仿傚。在不到十年的時間內，就出現了設備較齊全的餐車，除了有廚房外，還有一些帳幕可供用餐者遮雨，有些餐車甚至在車內也設立了座位。在冬天，由於不時下雪，車內的座位特別受歡迎。長途火車採用進餐車卡後，這些餐車很快為人們所熟知，而到了1925年，這些餐車被簡稱為「diner」。儘管如此，這些餐車的設置與火車的進餐車卡大相逕庭。在餐車中，廚房和煮食的地方佔了車中的大部份地方，而食客會坐在吧檯上，面對著廚房進餐。而這也成為了今天美式餐車的傳統模式。

1929年的經濟大蕭條對美式餐車的生意並沒有造成甚麼大的打擊，原因是它們所提供的食物相當便宜，而且似乎越來越受歡迎。在二次世界大戰之後，這些餐車在美國如雨後春筍般出現，特別是在東岸，大量餐車的建造商集中於此。到了1950年代，這種餐車成為了一大用餐潮流。在1936-1971年期間，美國流行一本名為Coronet的生活雜誌，在1953年的一期中，就有一篇題為「路邊美式餐車越益流行」的文章，作者George H. Waltz Jr指出：

slice of the past

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23

The Depression of 1929 didn’t seem to affect business at diners much, as the meals they offered were inexpensive, and they only seemed to gain in popularity. After the Second World War, diners were in full bloom all across the Unites States, particularly along the eastern seaboard, where most of the diner builders were. By the 1950s, they were the trendiest eateries around. In an article entitled “The Roadside Diners are Rolling” in a 1953 issue of the Coronet, an American general interest magazine that was published from 1936 to 1971, the writer, George H. Waltz Jr. declared: “The diner is the hottest thing in the eatery business. So much so, in fact, that many a restaurant has put up a false diner-front in the hope of getting in on the act”.

Soon, brick-and-mortar diners became the norm, although they were still usually prefab structures that would be completed in one place, then shipped and put up in another. The classic chrome designs with formica tables, which most of us now associate with diners, were also most prevalent around the 40s and 50s.

For the most part, food in diners remained simple - fried eggs, coffee, pancakes, home fries, burgers and so on were foods that almost anyone could make, keeping the barrier to entry into the industry low. By the late 1970s, however, they were becoming boring and outdated, and the masses began to flock to the new fast food chains. From inner-city diners to suburbia, even to highway roadsides, fast food had pushed most diners out of business, and the builders of the prefab diner structures had all but shut down. Estimates say that up to 75% of post-World War II diners have closed - the few that remain are now cherished as nostalgic remnants of a bygone era, rather than the everyday eateries they once used to be.

「在美國的餐飲業中，美式餐車成為了最時尚的一員。事實上，當時有不少餐廳在其門面擺放了類似餐車的裝飾，企圖模仿。」

不久，磚木結構搭建的餐車成為潮流。但是，它們仍然會以預製組件製成，再運到另一個地方裝嵌。經典的室內設計是銀色裝潢配上膠木餐桌。事實上，我們今時今日對美式餐車的印象，與1940、50年代流行的形式並無兩樣。

大部份這些餐車所提供的食物都頗為簡單：煎蛋、咖啡、班戟、薯條和漢堡包等等，這幾乎是甚麼人都懂得煮的食物，所以要進入這一行業並不困難。但是，到了1970年代後期，這些餐廳的活力不再，甚至有點過時，所以許多人都轉投新式連鎖快餐店的懷抱。無論是在鬧市或鄉郊，甚至是高速公路旁的大部份地點，美式餐車都不是快餐店的對手，製造這些餐車預製組件的建造商也只能關門大吉。根據估計，多達75%二次大戰後出現的美式餐車已經相繼結業，而至於碩果僅存的那幾間，已經不再是以往人們經常光顧的食店，而是成為可讓人發思古之幽情、懷舊一番的地方。

talk of the town

24

Nice Buns

May Chow, having worked

at some of Hong Kong’s

most innovative and highly-

acclaimed restaurants, from

Bo Innovation, to TBLS, to

Yardbird, has branched out

on her own. Riding on the

Asian “bao” wave sweeping

the United States, she’ll

be opening Little Bao in

August. With a number of

successful pop-ups for the

brand already under her

belt, it looks like Hong Kong

is ready for a new take on

the humble steamed bun.

Little Bao

66 Staunton Street,

Central, HK

www.facebook.com/

littlebaohk

The Art of Dim SumHin-chi Siu has left his

position as Executive Chef

of award-winning Chinese

restaurant T’ang Court

of Hong Kong’s Langham

Hotel to helm Duddell’s,

the newest brainchild of

hospitality gurus Yenn

Wong, Alan Lo and Paulo

Pong. Alongside classic

Cantonese cuisine, the

restaurant features elegant

interiors by acclaimed

designer Ilse Crawford, as

well as an art gallery and a

bar and terrace.

Duddell’s

L3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion

1 Duddell Street

Central, HK

www.duddells.co

A Shore ThingShore Hospitality, the group

behind Shore steakhouse

and The Salted Pig, are

finally crossing the harbour,

bringing their successful

formulas to Tsim Sha Tsui.

Mere weeks after opening

tapas bar Pico, they opened New

American bistro Eastside

Tavern, and newest in their

Kowloon stable is a branch

of The Salted Pig, already

running to great acclaim in

Central.

Pico Tapas Wine Bar

Shop 23-27, G/F Empire Centre

68 Mody Road, TST, HK

www.picotapaswinebar.

com.hk

Hot on the Grills

Known for this award-

winning Hong Kong

restaurant Amber, Richard

Ekkebus spreads his wings

in Shanghai with a French

fine diner with a “craft

above creation” philosophy.

Located in the Mandarin

Oriental Shanghai, the

street-facing restaurant

is undoubtedly high-end,

but goes for wide appeal,

with wood-fired dry-aged

meats, as well as bistro

favourites, artisanal cheeses

and a 250-label wine cellar.

Fifty 8° Grill

Mandarin Oriental Shanghai

111 Pudong Nan Lu

Shanghai, China

www.mandarinoriental.com/

shanghai/fine-dining/fifty-

8-grill

美味家族再添成員Shore Hospitality集團擁有Shore Steakhouse及The Salted

Pig這兩間非常成功的餐廳，最近該集團橫越維多利亞港，在尖沙咀複製其成功方程式。在他們的Pico西班牙風味小館開幕僅幾個星期後，美國新式小餐館Eastside Tavern也告開業。而集團最新的一員則是The

Salted Pig的九龍分店，這間餐廳秉承中環店優良的傳統，繼續為食客竭誠服務。

Pico Tapas Wine Bar

香港九龍尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下23-27號店www.picotapaswinebar.

com.hk

新鮮出爐Richard Ekkebus以其屢獲殊榮的本港餐廳Amber而聞名，最近他進軍上海，開了一間法國高級餐廳，充份體現其「創意無限」的廚藝理念。這間臨街的新高級餐廳位於上海文華東方酒店之內，其柴燒熟成肉扒以至小廚館常見菜式、手製芝士及250款美酒，當能吸引各式各樣的食家光顧。

Fifty 8° Grill

上海文華東方酒店中國上海浦東南路111號www.mandarinoriental.com/

shanghai/fine-dining/fifty-

8-grill

香港美食博覽這是香港其中一項最大型的飲食界盛事，博覽會將於8月15-19日向業界及公眾開放，展示香港以至世界各地的精彩飲食。同場並有烹飪示範、試食以至其他的飲食活動，各美食愛好者當能盡興而歸。

香港會議展覽中心www.hkcec.com

Hong Kong Food ExpoOne of Hong Kong’s largest

food-related events, this

whopping five-day expo

is open to both trade and

the public, and will feature

food and beverage from

Hong Kong, as well as all

around the globe. Cooking

demonstrations, tastings

and other food events are

sure to keep the region’s

foodies happy.

15-19 August

Hong Kong Convention &

Exhibition Centre

www.hkcec.com

美味包點May Chow曾在本港多間極富創新及備受推崇的餐廳服務，包括Bo Innovation、TBLS以及Yardbird，而在8月份她將會開屬於自己的新店，這間名為「小包包」的餐廳是以現時橫掃美國的「亞洲包點」熱潮作為主題。事實上，現時已經有不少她品牌的廣告成功推出，看來May Chow

在香港的新店將會為看似平凡的東方包點注入全新意念。

小包包香港中環士丹頓街66號www.facebook.com/

littlebaohk

點心的藝術享負盛名的香港朗廷酒店唐閣的行政總廚蕭顯志有新動向，他最近加盟了飲食業新貴黃佩茵、羅揚傑及龐建貽所創立的「都爹利會館」。餐廳除了提供精緻的粵式美饌外，室內設計更是由著名設計師Ilse Crawford

操刀，優雅別緻，餐廳有畫廊，並設有酒吧和陽台。

都爹利會館香港中環都爹利街1號上海灘3至4樓www.duddells.co

25

talk of the globe

Like Father Like Daughter

One of San Sebastian’s

best restaurants, Arzak,

has expanded to London

in the form of a sleek fine

dining establishment. Juan

Mari Arzak is seen as one

of the early San Sebastian

innovators, bringing Spanish

cuisine to the world stage,

and his daughter, Elena

has been following in his

footsteps. The London

opening has easily been one

of the city’s most anticipated

this year.

Ametsa with Arzak

Instruction

The Halkin by COMO

Halkin Street,

London, SW1X 7DJ, UK

Jamie brings Italian to SingaporeThe celebrity chef has begun

expansion of the successful

Jamie’s Italian restaurant

brand into Asia, starting in

Singapore. He has appointed

Gary Clarke, former Head of

Academy for Jamie’s Italian

in the United Kingdom to

launch in the Lion City, and

is due to open in August.

The group is also splayed

to open in Hong Kong and

Mainland China.

Jamie’s Italian

1 HarbourFront Walk,

VivoCity,

Singapore 098585

www.jamieoliver.com/italian/

singapore/home

SF Chefs

SF Chefs is San Francisco’s

premier food, wine and

spirits festival. Set on San

Francisco’s legendary Union

Square and at venues

throughout the City, the

festival offers numerous

opportunities to mingle with

master chefs, mixologists,

winemakers, brewers and

other culinary superstars!

28 July - 4 August

Union Square, San Francisco

CA 94108, USA

www.sfchefsfoodwine.com

MAD Symposium

Noma might have lost its

place on the top of the

World’s 50 Best Restaurants

list, but the influence of

chef-owner René Redzepi

has far from waned. His

annual conference of

chefs, food journalists and

hospitality professionals

has only gotten hotter.

Now in its third year, the

team continues to excite

with a diverse and high-

profile lineup of speakers,

including Frédéric Morin and

David McMillan of acclaimed

Montreal restaurant Joe

Beef, top chefs like Alex

Atala and Roy Choi, vocal

anti-GMO activist Dr.

Vindana Shiva, as well as

Martha Payne, the ten-year-

old British schoolgirl who

made headlines with her

criticism of school lunches.

25-26 August

Copenhagen, Denmark

www.madfood.co

有其父必有其女

San Sebastian的其中一間最佳餐廳Arzak現已擴大其版圖，進軍英國的倫敦，開設另一間高級的前衛餐廳。Juan Mari

Arzak被認為是San Sebastian其中一個創先河的廚師，他把西班牙美食帶到了世界舞台，而其女兒Elena亦繼承其衣砵。這間餐廳的開幕必定是本年度倫敦市最引頸以待的盛事之一。

將意式美食帶到新加坡

名廚Jamie Oliver正將其甚為成功的Jamie’s Italian餐廳品牌引入亞洲，而新加坡是其首站。他最近委任了英國Jamie’s

Italian學院前任總監Gary

Clarke負責獅城餐廳的籌備工作，而該餐廳預期將於8月份開張。此外，集團亦計劃進軍香港和中國內地。

三藩市廚師節三藩市廚師節 (SF Chefs) 將於7月28日至8月4日舉行，是當地首屈一指的美酒佳餚盛會。舉行場地包括著名的聯合廣場以及市內多個地點，名廚、調酒師、製酒師、釀酒商以及其他飲食界名人將能濟濟一堂、交流心得！

MAD研討會

雖然Noma 失去了全球50大最佳餐廳首位的榮譽，但是其名廚東主René Redzepi的影響卻未見消減。他所舉辦的年度廚師、飲食記者及餐飲服務業專業人士會議的盛況依舊熱烈。有關盛會已是第三年舉辦，並繼續邀得多位來自不同領域的知名人士蒞臨發表演講，包括加拿大蒙特利爾著名餐廳Joe

Beef的Frédéric Morin和David

McMillan、名廚Alex Atala及Roy Choi、反對基因改造食物非常落力的Vindana Shiva博士，以及因為批評學校午餐而成為報章頭條的英國10歲女學生Martha Payne。是次研討會將在8月25-26日於丹麥哥本哈根舉行。

26

sweet talk

甜蜜美夢

Sweet DreamsAged 15, Crystal Chan Ruijing was accepted into culinary school in Switzerland, but age requirements meant she couldn’t

go right away. She left the minute she could, and went on to win a gold medal at the 2004 Internationale KochKunst, the

“culinary Olympics”. After making the rounds at 5-star hotels around the world, she opened her own boutique patisserie,

Patisserie Rui in Kuala Lumpur in 2008.

Crystal Chan Ruijing在15歲時便獲瑞士的廚藝學校取錄，但由於年齡限制，她需要在一段時間後才能正式入讀。在2004年畢業後，她馬上贏得了Internationale KochKunst這項被譽為烹飪界「奧林匹克」的大賽。其後，她在全球多間五星級酒店工作。到了2008年，Crystal於馬來西亞吉隆坡開設了屬於自己的精品甜品店Patisserie Rui。

Had you always wanted to be a chef, and in particular, a pastry chef?I’ve always been interested since I was young. I always went to cake shops and would look through the windows, thinking “how do they make those cakes?”

When I went to chef school, my intention was to be a pastry chef, yes. But when I went to school, people told me that, in order to be a good chef, I should study everything and not limit myself, which is really true. So that’s what I did. I actually liked learning everything.

The intention was to be a pastry chef, but I didn’t limit myself, until I had many opportunities come in, and I just chose [according to] which one was better for me, and in the end I became a pastry chef.

How did you come up with the concept of “claypot fruitcake”?I honestly think I came up with this myself. I was reading about fruitcakes, and they have a lot of tradition, so I was thinking, “come Christmas, I have to bake this fruit cake”. I kept on reading, and the [recipe] said, “wrap your tin four or five times,” but for what? If I want to mature the cake, I want it to be a cool environment, regardless of the temperature outside. In the olden days, people used to put their water in earthenware pots to keep it cool, and I thought, I can mature my cake without putting it in the fridge, [I can do it in] ambient temperatures, and when I bake it, I don’t have to [further] insulate it, there’s no need to wrap it, and it can cool down.

你是否從小就立志成為一名廚師，甚至是一名糕點廚師呢？我自少便對甜品非常感興趣。我經常前往蛋糕店，從櫥窗裡細望，心想「這些蛋糕是怎樣做出來的呢？」

當我入讀廚藝學校時，本來是打算成為糕點廚師的。但在學習的過程中，人們告訴我要在任何範疇成為出色的廚師，我應該甚麼都學，不要自我畫限。這的確是真知灼見。所以我就照著做。事實上，我非常享受所學到的每一樣東西。

雖然成為糕點廚師是我本來的志願，但我並沒有限制自己。其後，不同的機會湧現，我選擇了自己真正感興趣的一條路，於是我就成為了一名糕點廚師。

你是怎樣想到「陶煲水果蛋糕」這個構思的？這個構思真的是我自己想出來的。有一次，我在閱讀有關水果蛋糕的文章，文中提及許多不同的傳統。然後我想：「聖誕節快到了，我也要焗一個水果蛋糕。」我在閱讀時發現[食譜]寫著：「要將蛋糕包四、五層錫紙」，但為甚麼要這樣做呢？如果我想將蛋糕熟成，無論外面的氣溫如何，我都會希望把它放在冰涼的環境中。以前，人們會在陶煲內裝水使水冷卻下來，於是我就想我也可以無須將蛋糕放到冰箱內而使其熟成。[我可以在]室溫中進行，而當我焗蛋糕時，無須做[進一步]的隔熱。我不用包著它，它也可以涼下來。

有人把你的風格稱為日式或法日式。你是如何發展出這種風格來的？我覺得這是一種巧合。我時常會想像自己喜歡吃些甚麼。我不會特別思考：「我希望做出那種風格的糕點。」人們喜歡我所製作糕點的味道。他們往往從中聯想到家的感覺，特別是那些正在其他國家工作的人。日本人覺得我的甜品有日本風，而韓國人則認為它們有韓國風，法國人又說它們相當法式。所以有些人說我的蛋糕是法國、日本、韓國、馬來西亞和中國味道的混合體！

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Your style has been described as Japanese, or Franco-Japanese, how did you decide on settling for this style?I think it’s a coincidence. I always think about what I like to eat. I didn’t particularly think, “I’m going to make that style”. People like the taste, and it makes them think of home, especially expatriates – the Japanese think it tastes Japanese, the Koreans think it tastes Korean, the French think it tastes French – so you have people describing my cakes as Franco-Japanese-Korean-Malaysian-Chinese-everything!

Patisserie Rui is rather compact – how have you had to adjust to the space after having worked in much larger hotel kitchens? To be honest, I never thought about space. I think it’s a style of working. If we have a high level of tolerance, good system, I think there are no limitations, however small. If you can work in a smaller space, you can work in any space.

Aside from spatial restrictions, what are some other differences are there between working at a large F&B operation versus a boutique, self-owned business?The main difference to me would be the level of responsibility. The shop is named after myself, so everything will be related to me [at least] indirectly, so the level of responsibility is quite high. The advantage is I get to do what I like. I’m not limited by what [other] people tell me what to do.

The kitchen is my comfort zone, but coming out of the kitchen, meeting people, planning the year [out] – these sorts of managerial things are, I wouldn’t say difficult, but are challenges, and things I have to learn along the way. When people come back and we make some memories – that’s what makes it worthwhile.

Patisserie Rui的空間不大，但你以前工作酒店的廚房都很寬敞，你現時是如何作出調節的？坦白講，我並不在乎空間。我覺得工作模式較為重要。如果我們能有高的容忍度以至好的制度，無論空間多小，都不會成為限制。如果你能夠在很小的地方工作，你以後就可以在任何地方工作。

除了空間限制外，在星級大酒店和小型、精品式的自家糕餅店工作，兩者之間有甚麼其他分別？當中最主要的分別在於責任的多寡。我的店是以我命名的，所以每樣東西都至少間接與我有關，所以我的責任的確不輕。但好處是我可以選擇做自己喜歡做的事，而無須聽從[其他]人的指示。

在廚房中工作使我感到很自在，但是走出廚房，與人會面、做年度規劃等種種管理行政工作，雖然不算困難，但對我而言也是一項挑戰，而且需要邊做邊學。許多人在吃過我的甜品後，都會再來光顧，當中有著不少美好的回憶，所以我覺得一切的辛苦都是值得的。

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Green Tea Velvet Cupcake綠茶絲絨杯子蛋糕 (朱古力糖霜)

recipe

Recipe for 60 cupcakes 可製作60個杯子蛋糕

Green Tea Velvet Cupcake 綠茶絲絨杯子蛋糕

with CHOCOLATE FROSTING

Chocolate Buttercream 朱古力牛油糖霜

Green Tea Cream Filling 綠茶忌廉饀

** Recipe is created by by Chef Crystal Chan Ruijing of Patisserie Rui Bakery (Malaysia)** 食譜由Patisserie Rui Bakery (Malaysia)大廚Chef Crystal Chan

Ruijing提供

• Cake flour• Baking soda• Salt• Green tea powder• Vegetable oil• Sugar• Eggs• White vinegar• Vanilla extract• Buttermilk

ButterDark chocolateMilkVanilla extractIcing sugar

CreamGreen tea powderSugar

1. Sift the dry ingredients together twice (flour, baking soda, salt and green tea).2. Combine oil, sugar and eggs in a large bowl fitted with the whisk attachment and emulsify on medium high speed until a pale yellow.3. Add vinegar and vanilla, then mix.4. Slowly add the sifted dry ingredients and buttermilk alternatingly. Starting and ending with dry ingredients.5. Portion and bake at 170ºC for about 18 minutes.

1. 蛋糕粉、蘇打粉、鹽及綠茶粉混合過篩兩次。2. 以攪拌器用中高速將菜油、糖和蛋打勻至淡黃色。3. 加入醋和呍呢嗱香草精。4. 分次慢慢篩入粉類和奶油牛奶。5. 放在已預熱170度的焗爐內焗18分鐘。

1. Cream the room temperature butter until light and fluffy, add in the melted chocolate, milk and vanilla extract.2. On low speed add the sifted icing sugar until well combined.

1. 牛油放室溫軟化後打軟，加入已熔朱古力、牛奶和呍呢嗱 香草精。2. 以慢速拌入已篩之糖霜至完全混合。

Whisk mixture together with a whisk and pipe into cupcakes after it has been cooled down.

將所有材料混合打勻，待杯子蛋糕冷卻後，唧入蛋糕中作饀。

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蛋糕粉蘇打粉鹽綠茶粉菜油糖蛋白醋呍呢嗱香草精奶油牛奶

牛油黑朱古力牛奶呍呢嗱香草精糖霜

淡忌廉綠茶粉糖

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