Boxing Training Foundation

THE

BOXING TRAINING FOUNDATION

2013 Edition

©All Rights Reserved Francis J Sands

www.myboxingcoach.com

Page 2

Table of Contents

About the Coach ................................................................................................... 6

Boxing Training Foundation – A Coaching Experience ............................................ 7

Welcome to Success ......................................................................................................................................... 7

Boxing Training Foundation – The Objectives ..................................................................................... 9

Boxing Training Foundation – How it Works .................................................................................... 12

Boxing Training Foundation – Structure and Timetable .............................................................. 15

What Equipment You Need ....................................................................................................................... 19

The Heavy Bag ..................................................................................................................................................... 20

Boxing Gloves ....................................................................................................................................................... 25

Hand-Wraps/Bandages .................................................................................................................................. 27

A Mirror .................................................................................................................................................................. 29

Skipping Rope ...................................................................................................................................................... 31

Round Timer ......................................................................................................................................................... 33

Exercise Mat ......................................................................................................................................................... 34

The Golden Rules ........................................................................................................................................... 36

Before You Start ............................................................................................................................................. 38

Running for Boxers ............................................................................................................................................ 38

Nutrition for Boxers .......................................................................................................................................... 39

Range in Boxing .................................................................................................................................................. 41

Phase 1 – The Warm Up ...................................................................................... 42

Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................... 42

The Warm Up Routine ................................................................................................................................. 44

Phase 2 – Boxing Drills ........................................................................................ 45

Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................... 45

The Core Boxing Skills ................................................................................................................................. 49

Core Skill #1 – The Boxing Stance .............................................................................................................. 49

Core Skill #2 – The Jab ..................................................................................................................................... 53

Core Skill #3 – The Straight Back Hand .................................................................................................. 56

Core Skill #4 – Moving In and Out ............................................................................................................. 59



Page 3

Core Skill #5 – Moving Side to Side............................................................................................................ 63

Core Skill #6 – Ducking ................................................................................................................................... 66

Core Skill #7 – The Lay Back ........................................................................................................................ 68

Core Skill #8 – The Pivot ................................................................................................................................. 70

Foundation Drills ........................................................................................................................................... 73

Foundation Drill #1 – Single Jab with Movement ............................................................................... 76

Foundation Drill #2 – Multiple Jabs with Movement ........................................................................ 79

Foundation Drill #3 – Jab and Straight Back Hand with Movement ......................................... 81

Foundation Drill #4 – Incorporating the Duck and the Lay Back .............................................. 84

Foundation Drill #5 – Incorporating the Pivot .................................................................................... 87

Foundation Drills – A Final Word............................................................................................................... 89

Mobility Drills .................................................................................................................................................. 90

Mobility Drill #1 – Movement In and Out ............................................................................................... 92

Mobility Drill #2 – In and Out Combined with Ducking ................................................................... 93

Mobility Drill #3 – In and Out Slipping Inside ...................................................................................... 94

Mobility Drill #4 – In and Out Slipping Outside ................................................................................... 95

Mobility Drill #5 – In and Out Rolling Inside ........................................................................................ 96

Mobility Drill #6 – In and Out Rolling Outside ..................................................................................... 97

Mobility Drill #7 – Diagonal Movement with Ducking..................................................................... 97

Mobility Drill #8 – Moving In Roll Out with a Sidestep .................................................................... 98

Mobility Drill #9 – Moving In Roll Inside with a Sidestep ............................................................... 99

Mobility Drill #10 – Moving In and Out with the Pivot ................................................................. 100

Phase 3 – Shadow Boxing ................................................................................... 101

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................... 101

Shadow Boxing Demonstration ............................................................................................................. 104

Phase 4 – The Heavy Bag .................................................................................... 107

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................... 107

Heavy Bag Demonstration ....................................................................................................................... 109

Phase 5 – Jumping Rope ..................................................................................... 112

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................... 112

Phase 6 – The Ton Up ......................................................................................... 115

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................... 115



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Demonstration .............................................................................................................................................. 118

Phase 7 – The Warm Down ................................................................................ 122

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................... 122

Demonstration .............................................................................................................................................. 125

The Way Forward ............................................................................................... 132

Annex 1 – The Gym Session ................................................................................ 134

Annex 2 – The Warm Up .................................................................................... 135

Annex 3 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Stance ............................................................ 136

Annex 4 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Jab .................................................................. 137

Annex 5 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Straight Back Hand ......................................... 138

Annex 6 – Do’s and Don’ts of Moving In and Out ................................................ 139

Annex 7 – Do’s and Don’ts of Sidestepping ......................................................... 140

Annex 8 – Do’s and Don’ts of Ducking ................................................................ 142

Annex 9 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Lay Back ......................................................... 143

Annex 10 – Do’s and Don’ts of Pivoting .............................................................. 144

Annex 11 – The Foundation Drills ....................................................................... 145

Annex 12 – The Ton Up ...................................................................................... 146

Annex 13 – The Warm Down .............................................................................. 147

Annex 14 – Video Contents ................................................................................ 148



Page 5



Page 6

About the Coach

My name is Fran Sands. Boxing has been a massive

part of my life since I was 6 years old when my Dad

took my brother and me to the local amateur boxing

club. I had my first contest at the age of 11 and went

on to compete for a further 10 years, taking part in

60 contests. As well as being a regional champion

on numerous occasions, I reached national finals

and semi finals all of which culminated in my

representing my country at Under-19 level.

Having 'hung up my gloves' and after a break from the sport for a couple of years,

I returned as a coach at the same gym at which I had boxed. Since then I have

worked with hundreds of boxers over a 15 year period, from novice boxers up

through to international standard amateurs, providing advice and guidance both

in the gym and on fight night in the corner.

In 2010, I created the website www.MyBoxingCoach.com. I have published

many articles and videos on the skills and fitness of boxers, building an

invaluable repository of detailed, clear and consistent guidance for all who are

interested in the sport of boxing. My primary aim in creating the

MyBoxingCoach website has been to recreate the methods and techniques that I

use in the boxing gym in the on-line environment. I have worked very hard to

achieve this aim and the users of the site have very much endorsed the success of

my approach.

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/



Page 7

Boxing Training Foundation – A Coaching Experience

Video Timed-point

1 00:00

Welcome to Success

Congratulations! You have purchased no ordinary package here, your

discerning eye has picked out a true coaching experience! This package of

boxing coaching resources is the culmination of over 12 months of planning and

development, calling on over 35 years of boxing experience. Whatever your

motivation in buying The Boxing Training Foundation package, or BTF, I can

guarantee that it will open your horizons to the possibilities around this sport,

whether for competitive purposes, fitness development and weight-loss or self-

defense.

A competing boxer needs to be fit, very fit. Without the required level of

fitness, a boxer cannot maintain technique. A boxer who cannot maintain

technique is a lamb to the slaughter. A boxer's fitness is a balance of aerobic

fitness (working with oxygen over an extended period of time and building

endurance) and anaerobic fitness (high-intensity effort where the muscles

work without oxygen using the body's energy stores, with ever-improving

recovery rates being key.) This balance of the aerobic and anaerobic fitness

means that as a method of maintaining a level of personal fitness and losing

weight, there are few fitness programs that can be as effective as that of a

boxer.



Page 8

Alongside fitness is the need for a boxer to continually develop their skills

around 'hitting and not being hit'. The Boxing Training Foundation will provide

the carefully considered approach to establishing the basics of boxing, allowing

you to learn a highly technical sport at your own pace and giving you

practical methods to follow in order to be your own coach.



Page 9

Boxing Training Foundation – The Objectives

Video Timed-point

1 04:57

When developing The Boxing Training Foundation, there were a series of key

objectives that I wanted to achieve:

I wanted to provide a set of resources that would make the benefits of

boxing training fully accessible to all, whatever their level of

knowledge or experience of the sport.

I wanted to create a true coaching experience. A training regime that

was practical, realistic and packed with benefits that could be gained

quickly and more importantly be enhanced over months and years.

Continuing the www.myboxingcoach.com philosophy, I wanted to

deliver detailed, consistent and specific coaching on what I believe to

be the key areas of boxing fitness and boxing skills required to

successfully establish the ideal basics.

I wanted to ensure that within a matter of a couple of hours you would be

self-sufficient in defining your future in terms of boxing skills and

boxing fitness. By this I mean that you will have a framework that you

can adapt, depending upon your needs, circumstances and even mood!

I wanted to provide unique boxing learning and fitness resources that

were head and shoulders above anything else available out there, and




Page 10

would provide you with jaw-dropping value for money.

I wanted to provide an interesting alternative to the modern gyms that

offer tread mills, rowing machines, exercise bikes and weight machines.

In my experience, improving your physical fitness by learning a technical

discipline with a varied training program is much more likely to

culminate in a true change of lifestyle. There is a reason why so many

gym memberships lay dormant whilst the monthly fee continues to be

taken.

Having covered my main objectives in producing this package, I think it equally

important to define what The Boxing Training Foundation is not intended to

deliver:

I did not want to create a replacement for a boxing coach. If you

intend to undertake 'contact' with an opponent, that is you intend to hit a

fellow human being (and likely be hit yourself), then the tutelage of a

coach is simply irreplaceable and it would be irresponsible to try. If you

want to box competitively, go to a boxing club or boxing gym and

speak to the person in charge.

I did not want to create something that claimed to turn you from a raw

novice to a modern-day Muhammad Ali in '10 easy steps', 'a 12-week

program', or any other method of measurement for that matter. I have

more respect for basic human intelligence than this! Anybody who says

that a single product will be all that you need to learn everything about

boxing is, quite simply, talking crap; you know it and I know it. If I try to

cover too much, then I'll succeed only in diluting the quality of what I

deliver; this I cannot tolerate and YOU deserve better!



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I did not want to cover any of the 'hitting activities', such as sparring,

detailed fight tactics and strategy, pad sessions or detail on running,

nutrition or weight training; these are considerations for a more

'advanced' level. I do provide some basic advice on running and nutrition

within The Foundation (just enough to complement the core of the

package,) and if your curiosity cannot be contained then you can check

out the site where you'll find all kinds of information to plunder!



Page 12

Boxing Training Foundation – How it Works

Video Timed-point

1 13:55

In order to deliver an outstanding digital coaching experience and achieve my

objectives, I knew that I had to come up with the answer to one very specific

question:

A really important balance to strike when learning boxing is to manage the

development of the skills as well as the fitness. The optimum approach is to

ensure that you feel small improvements in both areas at the end of each series

of sessions. I knew that to get the right answer to the question, that balance of

development was absolutely vital (controlled skills development alongside the

sheer hard work of the fitness.) I also knew that we would be working the basics

here, and 95% of what the champs do are the basics, they just do them very

well.

I knew that video alone would not be the answer as it simply does not deliver the

breadth of information and overall structure that I would need to provide in

order to allow you have all that you need to get 'up and running.' What I had to

do was provide a central spine from which I could deliver a consistent, logical

and concise coaching experience, combining detailed video-based coaching

alongside other written and web-based resources. All of this together would

provide masses of quality, relevant information and advice delivered without

How could I reproduce the processes and methods that I use when

working with boxers in the gym environment when trying to establish

the basics, whether from new or as a rebuilding exercise of the existing

boxing style?



Page 13

causing 'information overload’. Alongside this, I needed to provide options to

enable additional questions you have to be answered.

In order to deliver all of this I have put in place three connected resources:

The BTF Manual. This is your reference point and provides the context

for everything that you will learn. It not only provides the structure for

how the videos are to be used, but also how other resources on the

MyBoxingCoach website and elsewhere will aid your progress. The

eBook expands upon and enhances the video presentations and provides

the context for the information from the site to be delivered at just the

right time. In order to deliver the link from the eBook to the different

parts of the video, I’ve inserted the following marker to indicate the

relevant Video and the Timed-point in the video for you to scroll to:

Video Timed-point

1 00:00

The BTF Videos. If you've been a regular visitor to the site, then you'll

have a full understanding of the simple and clear approach that I take

during video demonstrations. For the Boxing Training Foundation, I've

gone a step further and really opened up my detailed demonstrations to

incorporate full on action sequences at competition speed, providing the

'golden ticket' to successfully learn the skills and develop the fitness.

There are 6 videos, giving a total of around 3 hours and 40 minutes of top-

line advice and instruction. The timed points are available on each video

page on the site and Annex 14 provides a list of all of the timed points

throughout all of the videos.




Page 14

The website and my time and expertise. If you can't find the answer that

you are looking for in the existing articles and comments, then I'm always

available to provide additional assistance wherever possible. An email or

a comment will always be opened and read and every effort will be made

to respond – you ask, I answer. Any questions or comments you have, let

me know by dropping me an email. Whilst I can't promise to respond to

every email individually (although I always strive to do this) I can

promise to address common issues in other ways, such as posts on the

site.

The first two resources provide the bulk of the coaching and guidance. There are

sections within this book that correspond with each of the headings above. Each

section will provide a timed-point to the point on the video where you can find

the relevant descriptions and demonstrations. Each section may also contain

links to associated/supportive content on MyBoxingCoach or on other carefully

chosen sites.

mailto:[email protected]




Page 15

Boxing Training Foundation – Structure and Timetable

Video Timed-point

1 17:25

The Boxing Training Foundation is intended to be practical. There are

other products out there that lay-down a 12-week plan, 28 days to success or

10 easy steps. Others offer highly structured and 'professional' approaches to

becoming a champion. The reality of boxing is that most boxers, and by 'most

boxers' I mean most competitive amateur and many professional boxers, are

fortunate if they get between 2 and 4 weeks notice for an upcoming fight, and

often less. This means that an all-round level of fitness is required over a

prolonged period, and this is augmented in the week running up to the fight

with some speed development work.

So, the timetable and approach that I have put together is largely the

same as I would stipulate for competing boxers, excluding the 'contact'

elements and other advanced work for the more experienced/tournament

targeted fighters. The aim of taking this approach is for you to obtain the

exact same benefits that a competing boxer attains; speed, strength, skill,

stamina, suppleness, power and physique, and maintain this as the norm

with continued skills development.

The key points then:

There will be 3 sessions per week, ideally on a Monday, Wednesday

and Friday.



Page 16

Tuesday and Thursday, a 3-mile run ending with a short sprint is ideal.

Saturday and Sunday will be rest days.

Rounds will be of 2 minutes duration.

Rest periods will be of 1-minute duration.

This approach is flexible and indeed I would expect you to adapt the

approach where necessary to fit your particular circumstances and rate of

improvement. For example you may prefer to train on a Tuesday, Thursday

and Saturday. Or you may wish to increase the round length to 3-minute

duration as your fitness develops.

However, structure and commitment within the session is non-

negotiable. When you have made the decision to complete a training

session, you must put 100% effort into that session, even if you don't feel

like you are 'In the zone.' Apply structure to the session then demonstrate

self-discipline to see that structure through and you WILL gain the benefits

on offer. Boxers must maintain discipline, both mental and technical.

The BTF session consists of 7 phases is shown in the table below (Go to

Annex 1 to find a version that you can print and put up on the wall of your

gym):

Phase Activity Format/Duration Rest Period

1 Warm Up 8 minutes 1 minute

2 Boxing Drills 3 x 2 minute rounds 1 minute

3 Shadow Boxing 3 x 2 minute rounds 1 minute

4 Heavy Bag 3 x 2 minute rounds 1 minute

5 Jumping Rope/Skipping 3 x 2 minute rounds 1 minute



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Each of these phases is broken down into as much detail as you will require. You

should be able to spot right away though that this is not your average fitness

regime. It is interesting and varied and ideal for avoiding the boredom factor

that extinguishes the fitness ambitions of so many!

On a final note, if you are working alongside a partner we can make some

small adjustments to make the Boxing Training Foundation fit your needs.

Boxing is an individual sport, but the training need not be. In order to

configure the Boxing Training Foundation to meet the needs of working as a pair,

here are the simple alterations that you should apply:

During Phase 2 (Boxing Drills), you can work facing each other with one

throwing the shots and the other holding the back hand up as a pad to

'catch' the shots (no hitting each other in the head!) Taking this approach

on the boxing drills gives you a more realistic “live” target to work with

and will assist in developing your range-finding ability.

During Phase 4 (Heavy Bag) and Phase 5 (Jumping Rope), if you only

have one heavy bag to work on, then one of you use the bag and one of

you complete your skipping. This does mean that the person skipping

will have to do so in their hand wraps, but this is a minor discomfort and

you can go on the bag first next time around. This is in the interest of

‘sharing the misery’.

All of the other phases can be completed together, with ample

opportunity to support each other during the challenges that come along

with the Boxing Training Foundation.

6 Strength Training/Ton Up 4 minutes 1 minute

7 Warm Down 10 minutes 1 minute



Page 18



Page 19

What Equipment You Need

Video Timed-point

1 24:29

In defining what equipment you need in order to put in place this Boxing Training

Foundation, I am assuming that you want to undertake the training in your home

environment. If you have access to a gym, then that's great as there will be savings,

but even without access to an equipped gym, the costs involved in setting up your

own space are far from prohibitive.

Here is a list of 7 items that I recommend you get hold of in order to gain the

maximum benefits from the Boxing Training Foundation is:

Heavy bag/punch bag

Boxing gloves

Hand-wraps/bandages

Mirror

Skipping rope

Round timer

Padding/mat

As simple as that, and not particularly expensive to gather the items, especially as this

is an investment for the long-term. Much of this equipment will not need to be

replaced for many years. Let's now look in some detail at each item on the list.



Page 20

The Heavy Bag

The presence of a heavy bag is what defines a boxing gym. Many gyms retain

bags that have been ‘part of the furniture’ for many years, complete with running

repairs administered with duct tape following years of impacts from the patrons.

A heavy bag is pretty crucial to the Boxing Training Foundation, so it's important

that I provide some information on the bag and the options available.

Unleashing big shots on a heavy bag gives so many benefits. The heavy bag

allows you to use different styles and techniques, either moving side to side

and pinging long-range shots, or stepping in close and using crunching short and

mid-range hooks and uppercuts. The bag can be used to improve speed,

strength and endurance by configuring the rounds, punching rate and

punching style accordingly. It’s also a great way to relieve the stress at the end of

a hard day. As an additional bonus, you don’t need much floor space for using a

heavy bag, as you need never be any more than a few centimetres out of

punching range.

There are a number of different types of heavy bag.

Things have moved on a pace since ubiquitous free-hanging

bag made famous on the old boxing films (except Rocky,

where he used half a cow carcass…it takes all sorts I guess)

Modern punching equipment includes the angled hanging

bag, maize bag, wall-mounted pad systems and even

‘person’ shaped high density foam free-standing objects

complete with chiseled good looks and ripped six-pack.

But, do these additional choices actually offer any benefit

beyond that offered by the old faithful heavy bag?

I have used many different styles of bag over the years. The traditional type of

heavy bag, such as that shown above, is what we expect to see. The bag itself is

The Boxing Training Foundation

The Heavy Bag

The presence of a heavy bag is what defines a boxing gym. Many gyms retain bags that

have been ‘part of the furniture’ for many years, complete with running repairs

administered with gaffer tape following years of impacts from the patrons. A heavy bag is

pretty crucial to the Boxing Training Foundation, so it's important that I provide some

information on the bag and the options available.

Unleashing big shots on a heavy bag has so many benefits for the user. The heavy bag

allows you to use different styles and techniques, either moving side to side and pinging

long-range shots, or stepping in close and using crunching short and mid-range hooks and

uppercuts. The bag can be used to improve speed, strength and endurance by

configuring the rounds, punching rate and punching style accordingly. It’s also a great way

to relieve the stress at the end of a hard day. As an additional bonus, you don’t need

much floor space for using a heavy bag, as you need never be any more than a few

centimetres out of punching range.

There are a number of different types of heavy bag. Things have

moved on a pace since ubiquitous free-hanging bag made famous

on the old boxing films (except Rocky, where he used half a cow

carcass…it takes all sorts I guess.) Modern punching equipment

includes the angled hanging bag, maize bag, wall-mounted pad

systems and even ‘person’ shaped high density foam free-standing

objects complete with chiselled good looks and ripped six-pack. But,

do these additional choices actually offer any benefit beyond that

offered by the old faithful heavy bag?

I have used many different styles of bag over the years. The traditional type of heavy bag,

such as that shown above, is what we expect to see. The bag itself is generally hung from

a wall mounted bracket or from an available cross-beam or rafter.

16 © All Rights Reserved Francis J Sands

www.MyBoxingCoach.com



Page 21

generally hung from a wall mounted bracket or from an available cross-beam or

rafter.

Obviously, if you are going to use a wall bracket (left), it

needs to be fixed very securely to the wall using the

recommended fixings. After all, the more you hit a bag,

the more developed your punching skill. The more you

develop your punching skills, the more power you

generate. I can imagine few things more embarrassing than to develop all of

that punching power only to be knocked out by a falling wall bracket!

A similar option to the heavy bag is the angled

punch bag. The angled punch bag (right) allows

some nice variations as you develop your repertoire

of punches, particularly the hooks and uppercuts at

various ranges. The bag that I use in Phase 4 of the

Boxing Training Foundation is an angled punch bag.

For the purposes of the Boxing Training

Foundation, I would recommend using a

conventional heavy bag or the angled punch bag,

both are perfectly fine for our purposes.

In terms of the quality of the bag, you should ensure that the leather hide is

hardwearing and that the weight is substantial enough to not move too

dramatically from a single power shot. Bags are traditionally filled with cloth

rags, packed in tightly to ensure an appropriate degree of resistance when the

shot lands. When you launch punches at bag, it’s important that there is some

‘give’ in the bag, however slight this may be. So don’t go filling the bag with

sand!


Obviously, if you are going to use a wall bracket (left), it needs to be

fixed very securely to the wall using the recommended fixings. After

all, the more you hit a bag, the more developed your punching skill.

The more you develop your punching skill, the more power you

generate. I can imagine few things more embarrassing than to develop all of that

punching power only to be rendered unconscious by a falling wall bracket.

A similar option to the heavy bag is the angled punch bag. The

angled punch bag (right) allows some nice variations as you

develop your repertoire of punches, particularly the hooks and

uppercuts at various ranges. The bag that I use in Phase 4 of the

Boxing Training Foundation is an angled punch bag. For the

purposes of the Boxing Training Foundation, I would recommend

using a conventional heavy bag or the angled punch bag, both are

perfectly fine for our purposes.

In terms of the quality of the bag, you should ensure that the leather hide is hard-wearing

and that the weight is substantial enough to not move too dramatically from a single power

shot. Bags are traditionally filled with cloth rags, packed in tightly to ensure an appropriate

degree of resistance when the shot lands. It’s important that there is some ‘give’ in the

bag, however slight this may be. I'd also recommend using a bag that has chain fixings,

rather than the type that has the hanging loops made from the same material as the bag

itself. In my experience, the chain version are the far more hard-wearing and longer-

lasting of the two.

A word of warning, when using a bag your hands should be well protected with

bandages/wraps and gloves. The high impact nature of punching a bag can cause

degenerative problems if the bag is too hard and the hand protection is not appropriate, so

make sure that you avoid hand problems by getting the right bag and the right choice of

hand protection (which we'll cover in a moment).




Obviously, if you are going to use a wall bracket (left), it needs to be

fixed very securely to the wall using the recommended fixings. After

all, the more you hit a bag, the more developed your punching skill.

The more you develop your punching skill, the more power you

generate. I can imagine few things more embarrassing than to develop all of that

punching power only to be rendered unconscious by a falling wall bracket.

A similar option to the heavy bag is the angled punch bag. The

angled punch bag (right) allows some nice variations as you

develop your repertoire of punches, particularly the hooks and

uppercuts at various ranges. The bag that I use in Phase 4 of the

Boxing Training Foundation is an angled punch bag. For the

purposes of the Boxing Training Foundation, I would recommend

using a conventional heavy bag or the angled punch bag, both are

perfectly fine for our purposes.

In terms of the quality of the bag, you should ensure that the leather hide is hard-wearing

and that the weight is substantial enough to not move too dramatically from a single power

shot. Bags are traditionally filled with cloth rags, packed in tightly to ensure an appropriate

degree of resistance when the shot lands. It’s important that there is some ‘give’ in the

bag, however slight this may be. I'd also recommend using a bag that has chain fixings,

rather than the type that has the hanging loops made from the same material as the bag

itself. In my experience, the chain version are the far more hard-wearing and longer-

lasting of the two.

A word of warning, when using a bag your hands should be well protected with

bandages/wraps and gloves. The high impact nature of punching a bag can cause

degenerative problems if the bag is too hard and the hand protection is not appropriate, so

make sure that you avoid hand problems by getting the right bag and the right choice of

hand protection (which we'll cover in a moment).





Page 22

I'd also recommend using a bag that has chain fixings, rather than the type

that has the hanging loops made from the same material as the bag itself. In my

experience, the chain version is the far more hardwearing and longer-lasting of

the two.

A word of warning, when using a bag your hands should be well protected

with bandages/wraps and gloves. The high impact nature of punching a bag

can cause degenerative problems if the bag is too hard and the hand protection is

not appropriate, so make sure that you avoid hand problems by getting the right

bag and the right choice of hand protection (which we'll cover in a moment.)

So, what about the other options that I’ve mentioned? A

maize bag (left) is a pear or tear-drop shaped stitched

leather bag. It comes in a range of colours and sizes,

although traditionally tend to be classed as be small

(approximately 15kg) or large (30kg+). Due to the shape

of the bag and the nature of the filling, it has a unique

response and ‘feel’ when hit with a shot. When a heavy

shot is landed, the maize bag absorbs power without

the ‘give’ that is present with most heavy bags.

The shape of the maize bag means that there is a much greater range of hooks

and uppercuts available to you. Short and medium range hooks and uppercuts,

combined with body movements and footwork techniques, provide the backbone

of any infighting tactics. Infighting is what I'd classify as a more advanced boxing

technique, but the Boxing Training Foundation does 'open the door' for you to

understand infighting and as such it's important that you can see what the maize

bag might do for you in the future.

A maize bag is a much more ‘solid’ object than a heavy bag. When assaulting

the maize bag with short, explosive hooks and uppercuts, it really does create


So, what about the other options that I’ve mentioned? A maize bag

(left) is a pear or tear-drop shaped stitched leather bag. It comes in a

range of colours and sizes, although traditionally tend to be classed as

be small (approximately 15kg) or large (30kg+). Due to the shape of

the bag and the nature of the filling, it has a unique response and ‘feel’

when hit with a shot. When a heavy shot is landed, the bag absorbs

power without the ‘spring’ that is present with most heavy bags.

The shape of the maize bag means that there is a much greater range of hooks and

uppercuts available to you. Short and medium range hooks and uppercuts, combined with

body movements and footwork techniques, provide the backbone of any infighting tactics.

Infighting is what I'd classify as a more advanced boxing technique, but the Boxing

Training Foundation does 'open the door' for you to understand infighting and as such it's

important that you can see what the maize bag might do for you in the future.

A maize bag is a much more ‘solid’ object than a heavy bag. When assaulting the maize

bag with short, explosive hooks and uppercuts, it really does create some very high

impacts on the hands. Even with appropriate hand protection in the form of

bandaging/wraps, the stresses and impacts mean that the bag is not so practical to use for

too many rounds in succession. Aiming to complete say 6 x 3 minute rounds on a maize

bag is going to be tough going and with the best will in the world could prove

counterproductive. It is more beneficial to mix in a couple of rounds on a maize bag into

you’re the main bag routine, maybe a 3 rounds to 1 ratio of heavy bag to maize bag.

If you can spare the floor space, and your budget can withstand the cost, owning both a

heavy bag/angled hanging bag and a maize bag would offer a very dynamic, power-biased

home gym set up. The use of pivots and sidesteps to generate leverage for short and mid-

range hooks and uppercuts means that the bag is excellent when focussing on developing

the ‘punching’ muscle-groups.





Page 23

some very high impacts on the hands. Even with appropriate hand protection in

the form of bandaging/wraps, the stresses and impacts mean that the maize bag

is not really practical to use for too many rounds in succession. Aiming to

complete say 6 rounds on a maize bag is going to be very tough going and with

the best will in the world could prove counterproductive. It is more beneficial to

mix in a couple of rounds on a maize bag into you’re the main bag routine, maybe

a 3 rounds to 1 ratio of heavy bag to maize bag.

If you can spare the floor space, and your budget can withstand the cost, owning

both a heavy bag/angled hanging bag and a maize bag would offer a very

dynamic, power-biased home gym set up. The use of pivots and sidesteps to

generate leverage for short and mid-range hooks and uppercuts means that the

bag is excellent when focusing on developing the ‘punching’ muscle-groups.

Something that you should be aware of is that the heavy bags and even more so

maize bags are very heavy and require chains to hang them. As with the heavy

bag, use a crossbeam or wall-bracket as a secure fixing for a maize bag. Lifting a

maize bag on to the chains is a two-person job. It is not really practical to

alternate a heavy bag and a maize bag on the same bracket or cross-beam. If I

were restricted to one bracket/fixing, then I’d always go with the heavy bag

or angled hanging bag rather than the maize bag.

In terms of the wall-mounted pad system (left), I feel

that unless you are working to a generous budget and

you have ample floor space available, these pieces of

equipment should be reserved for a full-sized gym.

A key benefit of this type of system is that it encourages

the boxer to combine effective footwork with dynamic

body movements and a varied range of punches. A

drawback is that there is very little ‘give’ when your


Something that you should be aware of is that the heavy bags and even more so maize

bags are very heavy and require chains to hang them. As with the heavy bag, use a

cross-beam or wall-bracket as a secure fixing for a maize bag. Lifting a maize bag on to

the chains is a two person job. It is not really practical to alternate a heavy bag and a

maize bag on the same bracket or cross-beam. If I were restricted to one bracket/fixing,

then I’d always go with the heavy bag or angled hanging bag.

In terms of the wall-mounted pad system (left), I feel that

unless you are working to a generous budget and you have

ample floor space available, these pieces of equipment

should be reserved for a full-sized gym. A key benefit of this

type of system is that it encourages the boxer to combine

effective footwork with dynamic body movements and a

varied range of punches. A drawback is that there is very

little ‘give’ when your shots land and as such is impractical for

use for a prolonged period, this is not true of a conventional

heavy bag or angled hanging bag.

Another modern piece of equipment is the free-standing human

target, made from high density plastics and rubbers and complete

with life-like body shape and target areas (left). I’ve seen these

pieces of equipment in gyms over the years. In principle, the idea is

sensible, but in my experience what tends to happen is that people

constantly strike the target under the chin with uppercuts...the

temptation is just too great. Over time, this focused assault can lead

to damage to the neck and ultimately a complete decapitation,

generating the rather disconcerting situation of a mock human head

bouncing across the floor of the gym. My own view is that this piece of equipment is an

expensive luxury that I feel adds little, if any, additional value to that provided by

conventional punch bags. They sure look good though.

There is a tutorial on using the punch bag in Phase 4 of the Boxing Training Foundation.





Page 24

shots land and as such is impractical for use for a prolonged period, this is not

true of a conventional heavy bag or angled hanging bag.

Another modern piece of equipment is the freestanding

human target (right), made from high-density plastics

and rubbers and complete with life-like body shape and

target areas. I’ve seen these pieces of equipment in gyms

over the years. In principle, the idea is sensible, but in my

experience what tends to happen is that people

constantly strike the target under the chin with

uppercuts, the temptation is just too great. Over time,

this focused assault can lead to damage to the neck and

ultimately a complete decapitation, generating the rather

disconcerting situation of a mock human head bouncing across the floor of

the gym. My own view is that this piece of equipment is an expensive luxury

that I feel adds little, if any, additional value to that provided by conventional

punch bags. They sure look good though.

There is a tutorial on using the punch bag in Phase 4 of the Boxing Training

Foundation. In the meantime, below is what is known as the “Associated

Resource” box. Throughout this eBook you will find these boxes and in them you

can click a link to take you to some relevant information on the website. In this

case you can access an article that provides a bunch of information on buying a

punch bag, along with some links to various products.

Associated Resources:

Buying a Punch Bag – What to Know!


Something that you should be aware of is that the heavy bags and even more so maize

bags are very heavy and require chains to hang them. As with the heavy bag, use a

cross-beam or wall-bracket as a secure fixing for a maize bag. Lifting a maize bag on to

the chains is a two person job. It is not really practical to alternate a heavy bag and a

maize bag on the same bracket or cross-beam. If I were restricted to one bracket/fixing,

then I’d always go with the heavy bag or angled hanging bag.

In terms of the wall-mounted pad system (left), I feel that

unless you are working to a generous budget and you have

ample floor space available, these pieces of equipment

should be reserved for a full-sized gym. A key benefit of this

type of system is that it encourages the boxer to combine

effective footwork with dynamic body movements and a

varied range of punches. A drawback is that there is very

little ‘give’ when your shots land and as such is impractical for

use for a prolonged period, this is not true of a conventional

heavy bag or angled hanging bag.

Another modern piece of equipment is the free-standing human

target, made from high density plastics and rubbers and complete

with life-like body shape and target areas (left). I’ve seen these

pieces of equipment in gyms over the years. In principle, the idea is

sensible, but in my experience what tends to happen is that people

constantly strike the target under the chin with uppercuts...the

temptation is just too great. Over time, this focused assault can lead

to damage to the neck and ultimately a complete decapitation,

generating the rather disconcerting situation of a mock human head

bouncing across the floor of the gym. My own view is that this piece of equipment is an

expensive luxury that I feel adds little, if any, additional value to that provided by

conventional punch bags. They sure look good though.

There is a tutorial on using the punch bag in Phase 4 of the Boxing Training Foundation.



http://www.myboxingcoach.com/boxing-punch-bag/



Page 25

Boxing Gloves

Having described the hitting equipment that we use within the BTF, the next step

is to cover the kind of hand protection we need to use, starting with boxing

gloves. There is a range of boxing gloves available, and in this section I’ll help

you get the pair that’s right for you.

Given that within the Boxing Training Foundation we are

aiming to work on a punch bag (i.e. we are not covering

sparring or competition), I would recommend purchasing

a pair of bag gloves, also referred to as bag mitts. Bag

gloves are the cheapest option and the most practical for

using against a heavy bag. They tend to go up to 10oz to

12oz in weight and are available in a range of colours to suit any taste. Options

on bag gloves have moved on significantly over the years from the traditional

style bag glove (above) that has no Velcro wristband or laces and very compact,

thin padding.

Also available now are a range of hybrid

gloves (right) that take design elements from

the competition glove range i.e. support around

the wrist and Velcro strapping, and combined

these with the characteristics of the traditional

bag glove. The common characteristic

across the range of bag gloves tends to be a reduced level of padding in the

knuckle area. The reduced level of padding really allows you to ‘feel’ the impact

of the shots. However, and another word of warning here, bag gloves are

entirely unsuitable for use during any kind of contact activity, namely

sparring, so don’t start hitting anyone in the mistaken belief that the gloves are

designed for that, they are not!


Boxing Gloves

Given that within the Boxing Training Foundation we are are aiming

to work on a punch bag (i.e. we are not covering sparring or

competition), I would recommend purchasing a pair of bag gloves,

also referred to as bag mitts. Bag gloves are the cheapest option

and the most practical for using against a heavy bag. They tend to

go up to 10oz to 12oz in weight and are available in a range of

colours to suit any taste. Options on bag gloves have moved on significantly over the

years from the traditional style bag glove that has no wristband and very compact, thin

padding (above).

Also available now are a range of hybrid gloves that take

design elements from the competition glove range, that is

support around the wrist and Velcro strapping (right), and

combined these with the characteristics of the traditional bag

glove. The common characteristic across the range of bag

gloves tends to be a reduced level of padding in the knuckle area. The reduced level of

padding really allows you to ‘feel’ the impact of the shots. However, and another word of

warning here, bag gloves are entirely unsuitable for use during any kind of contact activity,

namely sparring, so don’t start hitting anyone in the mistaken belief that the gloves are

designed for that, they are not.

When choosing bag gloves, I tend to go with a pair from one of the main suppliers in the

sport such as Everlast, Lonsdale, Tuf-Wear, Grant or BBE. Some of these outfits have

been designing and manufacturing boxing gloves for a long time, and I’ve yet to find a pair

produced with any particular design deficiency. This said, there is a considerable personal

preference aspect in terms of the feel of the glove and as such there is some trial and error

involved. I for instance dislike those bag gloves that for some reason have the thumb

removed, I just don’t get it. I know that I do not like open-thumbed gloves, but I only found

out that I did not like these gloves after trying a pair. You may be perfectly happy with your




Boxing Gloves

Given that within the Boxing Training Foundation we are are aiming

to work on a punch bag (i.e. we are not covering sparring or

competition), I would recommend purchasing a pair of bag gloves,

also referred to as bag mitts. Bag gloves are the cheapest option

and the most practical for using against a heavy bag. They tend to

go up to 10oz to 12oz in weight and are available in a range of

colours to suit any taste. Options on bag gloves have moved on significantly over the

years from the traditional style bag glove that has no wristband and very compact, thin

padding (above).

Also available now are a range of hybrid gloves that take

design elements from the competition glove range, that is

support around the wrist and Velcro strapping (right), and

combined these with the characteristics of the traditional bag

glove. The common characteristic across the range of bag

gloves tends to be a reduced level of padding in the knuckle area. The reduced level of

padding really allows you to ‘feel’ the impact of the shots. However, and another word of

warning here, bag gloves are entirely unsuitable for use during any kind of contact activity,

namely sparring, so don’t start hitting anyone in the mistaken belief that the gloves are

designed for that, they are not.

When choosing bag gloves, I tend to go with a pair from one of the main suppliers in the

sport such as Everlast, Lonsdale, Tuf-Wear, Grant or BBE. Some of these outfits have

been designing and manufacturing boxing gloves for a long time, and I’ve yet to find a pair

produced with any particular design deficiency. This said, there is a considerable personal

preference aspect in terms of the feel of the glove and as such there is some trial and error

involved. I for instance dislike those bag gloves that for some reason have the thumb

removed, I just don’t get it. I know that I do not like open-thumbed gloves, but I only found

out that I did not like these gloves after trying a pair. You may be perfectly happy with your





Page 26

When choosing bag gloves, I tend to go with a pair from one of the main

suppliers in the sport such as Everlast, Lonsdale, Tuf-Wear, Grant or BBE. Some

of these outfits have been designing and manufacturing boxing gloves for a long

time, and I’ve yet to find a pair produced with any particular design deficiency.

This said, there is a considerable personal preference aspect in terms of the

feel of the glove and as such there is some trial and error involved. I, for

instance dislike those bag gloves that for some reason have the thumb removed, I

just don’t get it! I know this, but I only knew this after trying a pair of gloves

with no thumb. You may be perfectly happy with your thumbs being exposed to

the elements. As I say, personal preference.

Finally, having bought a pair of boxing bag gloves, I always give myself time to

settle in with them, aiming to complete at least about 50 rounds of bag

work before I decide whether they are the ones for me or not. I have to say

though, there is not an awful lot that can go wrong here, so don't get too caught

up in a selection crisis. Pick a pair of gloves and give it a go!

There are a whole range of boxing gloves available on the market, and if you are

a concert pianist or a surgeon, you may wish to invest in something with a little

more padding such as a pair of 16oz or 18oz sparring gloves. For more

information on boxing gloves of all kinds, check out the link below:


6 Things to Know About Boxing Gloves

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/boxing-gloves-6-things-to-know/



Page 27

Hand-Wraps/Bandages

Never, ever hit a punch bag without appropriate hand protection. Don’t even

be tempted to have a little pop as you walk past. The damage that you can do to

the hands if you don’t have them well wrapped/bandaged and protected with

gloves is immense. I’m not talking about nasty little cuts and abrasions here, I’m

talking about disintegrated knuckles and shattered metacarpals where the

damage is so grave that the hand is permanently disfigured and will never

function properly again.

There is a range of options available when it comes to hand protection, none of

which are going to break the bank, so there’s no excuse for not avoiding pain

and problems. When you notice a boxer at the end of a big fight, they’ve taken

off their gloves and underneath are very tightly packed, solid bandaging,

gleaming white and trimmed to perfection. This is a special effort for the fight.

In gym time, professional and amateur boxers alike tend to be much more

practical. Hand protection is covered in the main by the following options:

Crepe bandages

Hand wraps

Gel-filled under gloves.

Crepe bandages (left) were for many years the

standard. They are available at most

pharmacies/drug-stores and are very hardwearing.

You can have any colour you like so long as it’s

white, and avoid purchasing the basic cotton version

as there is no elasticity in these and they really can


a special effort for the fight. In gym time, professional and amateur boxers alike tend to be

much more practical. Hand protection is covered in the main by the following options:

Crepe bandages

Hand wraps


Crepe bandages were for many years the standard. They are

available at most pharmacies/drug-stores and are very hard-wearing.

You can have any colour, so long as it’s white (right), and avoid

purchasing the basic cotton version as there is no elasticity in these

and they really can become quite uncomfortable on the hand. It’s

helpful to make a small incision at one end of the bandage to allow

the thumb to be threaded through; this makes the process of wrapping the hands easier.

The bandage should be about 7-10cm wide, but should be as long as is available, usually

4-5 metres. The length is important because the ideal way to wrap the hands is to feed

the bandage in between the fingers and some way up the wrist. Feeding the bandages

through the fingers prevents the bandages riding up the hand when hitting the bag, thus

avoiding leaving the knuckle area unprotected. A key benefit of the basic bandage is that

a layer of thin foam can be placed underneath the bandage for additional protection.

Hand-wraps (left) are a more modern progression of the crepe

bandage. They are very tightly woven fabric and are available in a

range of colours. Hand-wraps are specialised pieces of kit designed

for combat sports such as boxing, Muay Thai and Mixed Martial Arts

(MMA). Wraps include a loop or ‘partial glove’ at one end (to provide

the anchor point to wrap the hands) and a Velcro fastener at the other end, allowing a

speedy application. Wraps tend to provide a higher level of protection than crepe

bandages, and would not ordinarily require the addition of sponge layers to improve

protection. For a video lesson in putting on your hand wraps and taking care of those

prized assets that are your hands, check out the link in the resource box overleaf.





Page 28

become quite uncomfortable on the hand. It’s helpful to make a small incision

at one end of the bandage to allow the thumb to be threaded through; this

makes the process of wrapping the hands easier.

The bandage should be about 7-10cm wide, but should be as long as is available,

usually 4-5 metres. The length is important because the ideal way to wrap the

hands is to feed the bandage in between the fingers and some way up the

wrist. Feeding the bandages through the fingers prevents the bandages riding

up the hand when hitting the bag, thus avoiding leaving the knuckle area

unprotected. A key benefit of the basic bandage is that a layer of thin foam can be

placed underneath the bandage for additional protection.

Hand-wraps (left) are a more modern progression of the

crepe bandage and are compulsory for competition at

amateur level. They are very tightly woven fabric and are

available in a range of colours. Hand-wraps are

specialised pieces of kit designed for combat sports such

as boxing, Muay Thai and Mixed Martial Arts (MMA). Wraps include a loop or

‘partial glove’ at one end (to provide the anchor point to wrap the hands) and a

Velcro fastener at the other end, allowing a speedy application. Wraps tend to

provide a higher level of protection than crepe bandages, and would not

ordinarily require the addition of sponge layers to improve protection. For a

video lesson in putting on your hand wraps and taking care of those prized assets

that are your hands, check out the link in the resource box below.


Boxing Hand Wraps – Take Care of the Tools of the Trade!

Finally are the modern gel-filled under gloves (overleaf). This type of hand


a special effort for the fight. In gym time, professional and amateur boxers alike tend to be

much more practical. Hand protection is covered in the main by the following options:

Crepe bandages

Hand wraps


Crepe bandages were for many years the standard. They are

available at most pharmacies/drug-stores and are very hard-wearing.

You can have any colour, so long as it’s white (right), and avoid

purchasing the basic cotton version as there is no elasticity in these

and they really can become quite uncomfortable on the hand. It’s

helpful to make a small incision at one end of the bandage to allow

the thumb to be threaded through; this makes the process of wrapping the hands easier.

The bandage should be about 7-10cm wide, but should be as long as is available, usually

4-5 metres. The length is important because the ideal way to wrap the hands is to feed

the bandage in between the fingers and some way up the wrist. Feeding the bandages

through the fingers prevents the bandages riding up the hand when hitting the bag, thus

avoiding leaving the knuckle area unprotected. A key benefit of the basic bandage is that

a layer of thin foam can be placed underneath the bandage for additional protection.

Hand-wraps (left) are a more modern progression of the crepe

bandage. They are very tightly woven fabric and are available in a

range of colours. Hand-wraps are specialised pieces of kit designed

for combat sports such as boxing, Muay Thai and Mixed Martial Arts

(MMA). Wraps include a loop or ‘partial glove’ at one end (to provide

the anchor point to wrap the hands) and a Velcro fastener at the other end, allowing a

speedy application. Wraps tend to provide a higher level of protection than crepe

bandages, and would not ordinarily require the addition of sponge layers to improve

protection. For a video lesson in putting on your hand wraps and taking care of those

prized assets that are your hands, check out the link in the resource box overleaf.



http://www.myboxingcoach.com/boxing-hand-wraps/



Page 29

protection has become more common in boxing in recent years. They are a more

expensive form of hand protection, and although their use has become more

common, the hand-wraps remain more widespread in boxing.

Under-gloves tend to be marketed as a convenient

alternative to bandages or wraps, so there may well

be compromises in terms of hand protection. I would

suggest that if you are going to try these types of

gloves, ensure that they fit the hand perfectly. If

there is any movement of the glove across the hand,

then it is highly likely that significant friction-type injuries will be caused to the

knuckles. Whilst these injuries are not terribly serious, they can be very

annoying and troublesome over time. I’d also be concerned that the many

stitched joins could be a source of weakness where damage could occur. My

personal preference remains hand wraps or bandages; gel-filled under-

gloves have yet to convince this traditionalist.

On a final note, I will again emphasise the importance of protecting your

hands, after all they need to last you for the rest of your life! Gloves alone cannot

provide the necessary ‘armour.’ Repeated blows against a heavy bag (or the even

more implacable maize bag) are going put massive stress on your hands and

wrists particularly as your power develops, so take bandaging/wrapping

seriously and enjoy bag work without the threat of causing lasting damage to

the ‘tools of the trade’.

A Mirror

Mirrors are present in all kinds of gyms and studios, and a boxing gym is no

different. There are very good reasons why mirrors are so beneficial during

physical exercise, especially exercise that incorporates a technical discipline. The

ability to coach yourself to improve your technical development, and the fact

that watching yourself working hard provides motivation are to my mind the big


Finally is the modern gel-filled under gloves (right). This type of

hand protection has become more common in boxing in recent

years. They are a more expensive form of hand protection, and

although their use has become more common, the hand-wraps

remain more widespread in modern boxing.

Under-gloves tend to be marketed as a convenient alternative to bandages or wraps, so

there may well be compromises in terms of hand protection. I would suggest that if you

are going to try these types of gloves, ensure that they fit the hand perfectly. If there is any

movement of the glove across the hand, then it is highly likely that significant friction-type

injuries will be caused to the knuckles. Whilst these injuries are not terribly serious, they

can be very annoying and troublesome over time. I’d also be concerned that the many

stitched joins could be a source of weakness where damage could occur. My personal

preference remains hand wraps or bandages; gel-filled under-gloves have yet to tempt this

traditionalist.

On a final note, I will again emphasise the importance of protecting your hands, after all

they need to last you for the rest of your life. Gloves alone cannot provide the necessary

‘armour.’ Repeated blows against a heavy bag (or the even more implacable maize bag)

are going put massive stress on your hands and wrists particularly as your power

develops, so take bandaging/wrapping seriously and enjoy bag work without the threat of

causing lasting damage to the ‘tools of the trade’.

A Mirror

Mirrors are present in all kinds of gyms and studios, and a boxing gym is no different.

There are very good reasons why mirrors are so beneficial during physical exercise,




Putting on your hand wraps



Page 30

benefits of using mirrors in a gym.

Whilst a little posing around the gym does no harm, the presence of a mirror is

not strictly for the purposes of vanity. If your aim is to consistently improve

your boxing technique, then it is vital that you have the use of a mirror. From

the first Core Skill of the Boxing Training Foundation looking at your position and

form in a mirror allows you to ensure that none of the common faults are

creeping in, analyzing your boxing style in real-time and making adjustments

as necessary.

Let's look at the main uses of a mirror in the gym (other than for posing

purposes):

When shadow boxing, the mirror can be used to ensure that both

attacking and defending sequences work well with efficiency and

speed. The mirror acts as a proxy opponent, allowing you to examine

your style with a critical eye. This process has the added benefit of

improving your thought processes and promoting a greater

understanding of the detail of boxing. You are in effect putting yourself

in the shoes of an 'opponent', seeing what that opponent sees...this has to

be a good thing.

Used as an aide to performing drills. This might include using taped

lines on the mirror and floor to provide axis to work around thus ensuring

that the feet and body move in the correct way during passages of boxing,

building workable attack and defence sequences.

When completing ‘groundwork’ like the Ton Up at Phase 6, performing

various exercises such as plyometrics, calisthenics and abdominal

work, the mirror can be used to ensure that appropriate exercise

technique is being applied.



Page 31

As a method of motivation, such as when skipping or lifting free-weights.

Many boxers find that it helps when ‘digging deep’ during a hard session.

Ideally, the mirror should be large enough to be able to see your entire body,

with some space to spare on either side to allow some side-stepping movement.

Modern gym mirrors can be fixed to the wall and incorporate safety backing to

limit the risk of the mirror shattering. Ideally it would be better to go with

the safety-conscious option in the home, although in over 30 years around

gyms, I’ve only ever witnessed one mirror get broken by one butter-fingered

boxer who accidentally let go of a hand weight during shadow boxing!

If you don’t have the room to accommodate a larger specialised gym mirror, then

a full-length domestic mirror would provide benefits, with the main

characteristic being that you can see the full body. The reason I’m fairly fixed

on this requirement is that the ability to co-ordinate upper and lower body

movement when performing boxing skills (particularly when executing more

complex sequences) is more readily attained with effective use of a mirror.

Seeing only your top half is of very limited use.

If for whatever reason you are unable to use a mirror, then a substitute would be

a video camera. This option allows subsequent analysis but has the drawback of

providing no 'real time' feedback to allow instant changes to be made.

Skipping Rope

Jumping rope or ‘skipping’ is a staple activity of any boxer’s training

regime. As an activity it provides benefits including:

Variety, providing the ability to enhance the warm up and warm down or

being a core element of the gym session.



Page 32

Great options for aerobic and anaerobic workouts.

Excellent toning of muscle groups in the chest, shoulders, back and legs.

Reinforcement of the arms and upper body working in

synchronization with the legs, in particular forcing you to remain on the

balls of your feet, vital for mobility and punching.

If you are totally new to jumping rope, then it is something that will take practice

to perfect, but apex fitness benefits will be gained from this practice. Before

you know it, the rope will blaze away and the skipping section of your gym

workout will be something that you really enjoy.

In terms of the options available for jumping rope, we have 2 main choices; the

leather rope with wooden or steel handles and the plastic rope. Skipping ropes

that are made from conventional rope are not particularly well suited to boxers

as they don’t have the weight to allow high speed skipping, basically the

revolution of the rope can’t keep up with your ability to jump.

The traditional choice would be the leather skipping

rope, (right). Leather ropes §are hard wearing and

provide enough weight to really ramp up the

revolutions! If the rope is slightly too long for you, then

knots can be tied at each end to reduce the length.

Leather ropes tend to be more expensive, but in my

opinion are well worth it.

The next type of rope is the plastic skipping rope (left).

These ropes are quite common and are a cheaper

alternative to the leather rope. The plastic rope is not as


In terms of the options available for skipping, we have 2 main choices (not counting the

beaded rope); the leather rope with wooden or steel handles and the plastic rope.

Skipping ropes that are made from conventional rope are not particularly well suited to

boxers as they don’t have the weight to allow high speed skipping, basically the revolution

of the rope can’t keep up with your ability to jump.

The traditional choice would be the leather skipping rope, (right).

Leather ropes are hard wearing and provide enough weight to

really ramp up the revolutions. If the rope is slightly too long for

you, then knots can be tied at each end to reduce the length.

Leather ropes tend to be more expensive, but in my opinion are

well worth it.

The next type of rope is the plastic skipping rope (left). These

ropes are quite common and are a cheaper alternative to the

leather rope. The plastic rope is not as hard-wearing as the leather

option, and doesn’t have ball-bearings in the handle like the leather

rope (these ball-bearings reduce the risk of the rope warping during

use). Some boxers do favour the plastic rope as it can offer greater

speed, making a very impressive noise as it cuts through the air.

A skipping rope is a cheap enough commodity to allow you to own both. In the video, I use

a plastic rope, although I would have been just as happy taking the leather option.



Tip. Schedule your skipping for after your bag work so that you can quickly remove

your hand wraps prior to picking up the rope. Wearing bandages during skipping can

become uncomfortable fairly quickly, causing your fingers to go slightly numb...not

enjoyable. If you are working with a buddy, then alternate each session so that you

each take your fair share 'numb finger syndrome' by skipping with your wraps on.


In terms of the options available for skipping, we have 2 main choices (not counting the

beaded rope); the leather rope with wooden or steel handles and the plastic rope.

Skipping ropes that are made from conventional rope are not particularly well suited to

boxers as they don’t have the weight to allow high speed skipping, basically the revolution

of the rope can’t keep up with your ability to jump.

The traditional choice would be the leather skipping rope, (right).

Leather ropes are hard wearing and provide enough weight to

really ramp up the revolutions. If the rope is slightly too long for

you, then knots can be tied at each end to reduce the length.

Leather ropes tend to be more expensive, but in my opinion are

well worth it.

The next type of rope is the plastic skipping rope (left). These

ropes are quite common and are a cheaper alternative to the

leather rope. The plastic rope is not as hard-wearing as the leather

option, and doesn’t have ball-bearings in the handle like the leather

rope (these ball-bearings reduce the risk of the rope warping during

use). Some boxers do favour the plastic rope as it can offer greater

speed, making a very impressive noise as it cuts through the air.

A skipping rope is a cheap enough commodity to allow you to own both. In the video, I use

a plastic rope, although I would have been just as happy taking the leather option.



Tip. Schedule your skipping for after your bag work so that you can quickly remove

your hand wraps prior to picking up the rope. Wearing bandages during skipping can

become uncomfortable fairly quickly, causing your fingers to go slightly numb...not

enjoyable. If you are working with a buddy, then alternate each session so that you

each take your fair share 'numb finger syndrome' by skipping with your wraps on.



Page 33

hard-wearing as the leather option, and doesn’t have ball-bearings in the handle

like the leather rope (these ball-bearings reduce the risk of the rope warping

during use). Some boxers do prefer the plastic rope as it can offer greater speed,

making a very impressive noise as it cuts through the air.

A skipping rope is a cheap enough commodity to allow you to own both. In

the video, I use a plastic rope, although I would have been just as happy taking

the leather option.

Round Timer

The Boxing Training Foundation depends upon timed rounds and timed rest

periods. Something I often see (and it never fails to disappoint me) is somebody

working a heavy bag only until they are tired, and then taking a rest until they are

recovered. It is vital that the structure of the rounds is maintained. If you set off

on a 2 minute round, then you must see the round through to the end, no

matter how tired you are. Results will not be achieved if you decide to stop

working whenever you tire. This is not just about fitness; it's as much about

mental toughness. If a boxer quits when they are tired, what will happen when

they are tired AND are getting hit by someone?

Now, you could hang a clock on the wall where you are training, but it is quite

TIP!

Schedule your skipping for after your bag work so that you can quickly

remove your hand wraps prior to picking up the rope. Wearing

bandages during skipping can become uncomfortable fairly quickly,

causing your fingers to go slightly numb...not enjoyable. If you are

working with a buddy, then alternate each session so that you each

take your fair share 'numb finger syndrome' by skipping with your

wraps on!



Page 34

difficult, as you need to continually glance up to check where you are up to in the

round. The ideal is to have a variable timing mechanism that includes an

audible warning to signify the start and end of rounds and any

intermediate key points (such as the last 30 seconds.) A wristwatch isn't going

to do it (well, certainly not on your wrist anyway), but there are options that can

be chosen; a gym timer, a personal timer or a pocket timer. These all work

fine. The gym timer is the most expensive, but is the most versatile. The other

options would suffice, but there may very well be limitations in terms of round

and rest period duration.

As well as these physical options, there are a number of cool on-line timers that

in many ways are more versatile than any that we've discussed. The link below

will take you to a timer that is the best that I have managed to find, it's really top

notch and will allow you to alter your training regime as much as you like, giving

you lots of options to maintain a dynamism about your sessions.


On-Line Timer

Timer App

Whatever option you go with, be sure to use something and don't just rely on

guesswork!

Exercise Mat

When performing activities such as those described in Phase 6 - The Ton Up

and Phase 7 – The Warm Down, there are periods of working on the ground.

This is particularly important during abdominal work where your backside takes

the bulk of your weight during sit-ups, crunches and stretches. If you only have

access to a cold, hard floor, then you could end up with a very uncomfortable

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btftimer

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/BTFAppTimer



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experience! Ensure that you have some padding to hand when working through

these phases. The padding could be as simple as a piece of carpet, a cushion from

a piece of garden furniture or a specialised exercise mat. Whatever you choose,

choose something as your bottom will appreciate it. In the video I use a really

inexpensive gym mat; thin, portable and perfectly suited to our needs.



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The Golden Rules

Video Timed-point

1 33:51

To get the most out of the Boxing Training Foundation, there are 4 Golden Rules

to follow:

Golden Rule #1 - As previously mentioned, or more accurately

demanded, structure is vital. We will use 2-minute rounds, and you

MUST work through to the end of the round. By 'work through' I mean

that you must at least maintain the boxing stance (hands up, body form

and feet correct) and try to deliver shots. Do not be tempted to cheat

yourself by stopping. Control your breathing and maintain your

discipline. Do not step away from your activity, bent over double whilst

gasping for oxygen when it seems like all of the oxygen has been removed

from the air. Keep your discipline, work through the exhaustion. No

compromise.

Golden Rule #2 - The 1-minute rest period is critical. Your focus must

be on recovering from the effects of the previous round and preparing for

the next round. Breathe deeply, in through the nose and out through

the mouth. Take on some fluids and then breathe deeply some more.

During the last few seconds of the rest period, take a few more deep

breaths, expanding the lungs to their maximum capacity and preparing

for the next round of action. As you can probably guess, I'm a bit

fanatical when it comes to maximizing oxygen intake.

Golden Rule #3 - In between the phases of the Foundation, maintain the

1-minute rule. Do not be tempted to sit around and waste time. Get



Page 37

prepared for the next activity inside 1 minute so that the momentum of

the training session is maintained.

Golden Rule #4 - Have some of your favourite music to hand. It helps

to develop and maintain rhythm during your work out. Music can also

help in 'keeping up the spirits' during the really tough times during your

sessions.

Follow these simple rules, and in no time at all you'll fit into the routine like a

hand in a glove.



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Before You Start

Boxing, like other contact sports, has inherent risks. The intent of The Boxing

Training Foundation is not to encourage you to embark upon a process of getting

together with other like-minded people and 'practising' the skills without

qualified supervision (i.e. in a fully insured boxing gym and under the guidance

of a boxing coach). I might talk in the Foundation about 'the opponent', but I must

do this in order to provide you with the context of the skills and sequences that I

am describing and it should not be taken as a prompt to start a fight. The

world is full of top flight boxing clubs and gyms, so if you wish to exchange

blows with people, find yourself a gym and get involved.

Similarly, before you undertake any program of physical exercise, it is advisable

to get checked over by a physician. This Boxing Training Foundation is in many

ways quite intense and caution should be exercised in your approach. If you have

any concerns whatsoever about your physical condition, get checked out by your

Doctor, there really is no substitute.

OK, there’s the serious warning stuff done, onto the fun bits.

Running for Boxers

No boxer can hope to achieve success if they do not undertake a structured,

disciplined running program. Boxers use a combination of distance running

(for aerobic fitness), interval running and high-intensity sprints (both designed

to develop anaerobic fitness). Those boxers who do not apply themselves to

running (or 'roadwork' as it's known in the game) are readily identifiable as the

ones who after 30 seconds of fighting look like they have completed a 30 mile

speed march. Gym sessions alone do not constitute 'fighting fitness'. The

challenge of roadwork provides much of the core fitness that it takes to be the



Page 39

best. For the purposes of our Boxing Training Foundation though, we need not

get too caught up complex running programs, let's keep it simple.

Our gym sessions take place every other day during the week (Monday,

Wednesday and Friday). If you can commit to getting out and completing a 2 to 3

mile run on Tuesday and Thursday, then this will contribute greatly to your

overall level of aerobic fitness and will support your gym sessions and the

development of your skills.

Nutrition for Boxers

If you have purchased the Boxing Training Foundation in order to drop

bodyweight and tone-up (and it will work wonders), then obviously eating the

right food is important. Add to this the need to put the 'right type of fuel' in the

engine in order to enable the type of training involved, and it becomes even more

apparent that eating well is vital. Rather than becoming too embroiled in

planning a detailed dietary regime, I wanted simply to offer some simple tips to

ensure that you get the right type of food in order to power the engine and

drop those pounds:

TIP!

Always try to end your run with a sprint lasting around 30 seconds.

This lung buster will help in 2 ways. Firstly, you'll push yourself to an

anaerobic state and the process of recovering from this state is part

and parcel of developing a boxer's fitness. Secondly, and as

importantly, it will develop the psychological toughness that is simply

indispensable in boxing training...possessing an implacable will and a

grim determination to keep on going.



Page 40

Rather than eat large portions at meal times, cut down on the bulk and

compensate by eating smaller portions throughout the day. By this I

mean you could change from 3 large meals to 6 smaller meals. This

approach will help to keep your blood sugar levels stable and your energy

levels high.

Drinking plenty of water is good for you, this is an irrefutable fact.

Drinking water helps in flushing the body of toxins, aids digestion and

improves overall health.

Be careful how much alcohol that you drink. Alcoholic drinks have lots

of calories, and what could be considered the worst type of calories, ones

that have no nutritional value. Now, I wouldn't expect you to lead a

monastic existence, denying yourself the slightest tipple, but you should

understand that the more alcohol that you drink, the more difficult it

will be to manage your weight.

Keep a healthy balance between protein, carbohydrates (carbs) and

fats:

o Protein helps repair and build muscle and broadly speaking is

either animal or vegetable. Fish, white meat, beans and pulses are

all good sources of protein.

o Carbs are used to create glucose (for energy) and can be used

immediately or stored for later use. Carbs are either simple

(sugars) or complex (starches and fibre).

o Fats generally can be saturated (butter, margarine) or unsaturated

(oils). Go for the unsaturated kind of fats.

o Avoid 'diet' foods such as diet soda or margarine etc. There is a

growing body of research that suggests that over a prolonged



Page 41

period, foods of this type will contribute to a weight gain rather

than a weight loss.

o Try to replace conventional 'white' foods with the wholegrain

variety. For example, pasta with wholegrain pasta, rice with

natural (brown) rice.

Remember the phrase, “everything in moderation”. Unless you end up as a

competing boxer and are forced to make weight (not an altogether pleasant

aspect of the sport), then all you need do is try to ensure a healthy balance of

foods and an avoidance of the stuff that is obviously not good for you.

Range in Boxing

In my opinion, becoming knowledgeable and skilled in boxing requires that you

become familiar with the concept of 'range'. In terms of 'punching range', I

think of boxing as consisting of 5 measures of range. The first 2 measures are

'out of range' and 'edge of range' (not to be confused). When in range, we can

then break down boxing into 3 basic ranges; 'short range', 'mid range' and

'long range'. Most of the Boxing Training Foundation is developed around long-

range boxing. This is because working at long range takes up most of the time

during a fight and because before we can get more intricate with infighting and

the full range of hooks and uppercuts, long range must be mastered.

Rather than me write too much about range in boxing here, I strongly

recommend that you review the article link in the 'Associated Resources' box

below so that you understand the three 'ranges' of short, mid and long, and also

the other aspects of range of which you need to be aware.


Finding Your Range in Boxing!

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/fight-tactics-range2/



Page 42

Phase 1 – The Warm Up

Video Timed-point

2 00:00

Introduction

What is a warm up and why do we do it? Whatever the sport, warming up is a

vital part of the preparation for both training and competition. By 'preparation' I

mean preparing both body and mind for the rigours and challenges of training

and competition. The aims of the warm-up, in simple terms, are as follows:

To increase the heart rate and blood flow

To improve the transportation of oxygen and nutrients to the

muscles

To increase muscle temperature

To reduce muscle stiffness

Improve economy of movement in the muscles

To reduce the risk of injury during the early stages of training or

competition

To mentally prepare and focus on training or competition.

The warm up that you undertake within the Boxing Training Foundation is 'sport

specific', that is it is designed specifically for the demands of boxing training.

You will notice pretty quickly that our warm up is quite intensive on the legs.

This is because our legs are very important in boxing, as when we throw our

shots correctly there are great loads placed on the muscles of the legs. We also

rather obviously have a number of warm up exercises that focus on the chest and



Page 43

shoulders, again areas of particular stress when unloading big shots. So the legs,

chest and shoulders are key during our warm up.

Too often I see boxers simply not pay enough attention to the process of

warming up. Without a proper warm-up, the risk of injury is increased

significantly, and when you have an injury, you can't train. Add to this the fact

that if a boxer is involved in a match and their warm up has not done it's job,

then the boxer could have a slow start and throw away the round (or worse) by

being caught cold, and you can see why Phase 1 of the Foundation is so

important.


Boxing Training Warm Up – Cuban Style!

TIP!

Before you warm up, you should have your hand-wraps on. You should

also have a couple of layers of clothing, removing a layer at the end of the

warm-up before starting on Phase 2 - Boxing Drills.

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/boxing-training-drills-warm-up/



Page 44

The Warm Up Routine

Video Timed-point

2 02:41

The table below lays down the activities within the warm up. There is a version

at Annex 2 that you can print and hang on the wall in your gym.

You will notice on the video that I don't talk over the warm-up. There are a few

reasons for this, but suffice it to say that I think the exercises are self-explanatory

as they are quite simple. I do place some on-screen information 'bites' just to let

you know where you are in the process. In total though, we are looking at

approximately 8 minutes, which is no time at all to really get yourself starting

your session in the best physical and mental condition.

Step Activity Duration

1 Bouncing on spot 30 seconds

2 Leg Shuffles and Crosses 60 seconds

3 Heel Flicks 30 seconds

4 Hip twists 30 seconds

5 Alternating Windmills 30 seconds

6 Star Jumps 30 seconds

7 Spotty Dog 30 seconds

8 Chest Jumps 30 seconds

9 Alternated Jumps 30 seconds

10 Running on the Spot Punching (10 sprint) 30 seconds

11 10 Burpees -


13 10 Crunches -


15 10 Pike Jumps -


17 Running Spot/Punching (30 increase sprint) 60 seconds



Page 45

Phase 2 – Boxing Drills

Video Timed-point

2 10:52

Introduction

In order to continually improve in a technical sport like boxing, it requires that a

proportion of your training and preparation is devoted to improving skills in a

systematic and structured way. This is why we have drills.

So, what are drills then? Well let's keep it nice and simple with the following

statement:

And that's it. Nothing complicated. Another way to put it would be:

Boxing drills allow you to learn a skill or group of skills by repeating that skill or

group of skills with a critical eye. The question has to be asked, to what end?

Feels a little uninspiring to simply repeat these passages? Well, take the example

of what is known as your 'flinch reflex'. The flinch reflex is our instant reaction

to threat. It might be closing your eyes and turning your head away if someone

throws a ball at you, or alternatively throws a left hook at you. This instant

reaction happens very fast, and a purpose of boxing drills is to substitute

closing the eyes and turning away with something useful, for instance a

defensive action, body movement or a punch. Boxing is, in many ways,

absolutely dependent upon reflexes. By harnessing the reflex action into a

“Practice makes perfect”

““Drills are systematic training by multiple repetitions”



Page 46

practical and useful defensive or offensive action you give yourself the maximum

chance of 'taking care of business', which is exactly what we need to do.

Drills also reinforce 'muscle memory', enabling what are initially awkward

and unnatural movements to be gradually made easier, resulting in much more

polished execution. Boxing is dependent upon excellent co-ordination between

the legs and upper-body. The path to achieving this co-ordination is made

smoother by drills.

Another key reason for completing the drills is that during a 'situation', for

example when someone is determined to 'put you to sleep', you don't think

“Right, I'll move this way, throw this shot, then do this....” Things happen for too

fast for this to be possible. Your drills mean that during fight time, your

actions just happen, sub-consciously and with maximum effect; you have

pre- determined sequences that work over and over again.

Let's consider an observation about people who work in professions that may

require, from time to time, that they face very stressful situations, for example

police officers, soldiers, fire fighters, medics, pilots etc. These people, when

recounting an act of particular bravery (usually in a very self-effacing way it has

to be said) or a time when they kept their cool in situations that would make

most of us shrivel up blow away regularly use the phrase “The training took

over”. Why did the training take over? The training took over because a

proportion of their time in training was devoted to drills. The same is true of

boxing training. There is no mystery here, and as the great golfer Gary Player

once said, “The harder you practice, the luckier you get.”

If your primary aim is to develop your boxing skills, then drills should take up a

greater proportion of the time that you spend on your boxing training. As

you become more experienced, this may tail off a little, but drills will always

play a key role in your training. Skills development is always a non-negotiable



Page 47

part of training. This is why the world's best golfers and tennis players retain the

services of top coaches right throughout the most productive spells in their

careers. Even if you rationalize things by saying “But I don't want to box, I just

want to train for the fitness benefits.” Well, improving your skills will improve

the benefits of the training. Why? Because throwing a technically correct

punch requires more effort and works more muscle groups than a

technically deficient punch.

Now, and here's the key, you don't have to be in the throes of a full training

session to practice boxing drills. Within the Boxing Training Foundation, I

simply define the period of boxing drills in the same way as shadow boxing and

heavy bag work (i.e. 3 x 2 minute rounds). However, if you have a spare 10

minutes at home, not particularly during a gym session, then work through

some drills. Waiting for the kettle to boil? Run through drills. Waiting for the sink

to fill with water for a wash? Run through drills. The equation is simple. The

more time that you spend on drills, the quicker that you will reap the benefits.

Remember, “The harder you practice, the luckier you get.”

Before we get into the drills of the Boxing Training Foundation, here are some

things to note:

There are 15 drills: 5 Foundation Drills and 10 Mobility Drills.

The Foundation Drills provide the core of the Boxing Training

Foundation and are designed to get you 'operational' as quickly as

possible, establishing core skills and developing the capability to get

these skills working together. The Foundation Drills incorporate of the

following skills:

o The boxing stance

o The boxing jab

o The back hand (cross)



Page 48

o Moving in and out

o Moving side to side

o Ducking

o The Lay Back

o The Pivot

The Foundation Drills should be your main focus before tackling the

Mobility Drills (although Mobility Drill #1 should be used alongside the

Foundation Drills). I am unable to put a timeframe on how long it will

take to develop a good working understanding of the Foundation Drills as

people progress at different rates. However, if you follow the philosophy

of the Boxing Training Foundation, understanding the detail of the skills

and avoiding the common faults, then you will know when you are ready

to try some of the Mobility Drills.

The themes described in the Foundation Drills provide the themes

that will be used during the subsequent activities of Phase 3 - Shadow

Boxing and Phase 4 - Heavy Bag.

The Mobility Drills incorporate skills from the footwork and body

movement categories and are designed to be a follow up to the

Foundation Drills. The skills that constitute the Mobility Drills can be

found both on the video and on the site; there will be links within each

section of this document as appropriate.

The Mobility Drills start simple and build into more complex

progressions of skills. There are no punches used, but you will be

capable of incorporating punches at your own speed. They are designed

to improve your all-round boxing style.

All drills are presented in the same manner, with a series of taped

lines on the floor that allow a point of reference.



Page 49

The Core Boxing Skills

Every core skill has a video, and there is a time-link to each of those videos. The

core skills should be understood in isolation ahead of practicing the

Foundation Drills. Indeed, each of the core skills could be practiced as a drill

itself. Whatever you approach though, ensure that the mechanics and common

faults of the skills are understood. The drills (Foundation and Mobility) combine

core skills, the trick is identifying the complementary aspects of each skill

and how to join the skills together. We will get into some detail on this later.

Let's start at the beginning, and in the beginning there was the boxing stance.

Core Skill #1 – The Boxing Stance

Video Timed-point

2 16:38

The Basics of the Boxing Stance

If you don’t get the basics of the boxing stance right, then any boxing skill

that you try to learn will not be as good as it can be. I cannot emphasize

enough the need for balance, mobility and a sound body shape; this is what the

perfected boxing stance gives you. If you understand the boxing stance, and

understand why it is so important, then you will be able to more easily develop

the footwork, punches and defensive actions necessary to constitute an effective

boxing style.

There are two types of boxing stance; orthodox and southpaw. An orthodox

boxer is someone who is naturally right-handed and holds the left hand and left

leg in front, closer to the opponent. Conversely, a southpaw boxer is someone

who is naturally left-handed and leads with the right hand and right leg. If you



Page 50

are a beginner, don’t get caught up in the notion that it feels more comfortable as

a right-hander using the southpaw-boxing stance. As a rule of thumb, if you’re

right-handed you are orthodox, if you’re left-handed you’re southpaw. If

you are left-handed, then the southpaw stance brings some natural advantages.

If you want to know more about how boxing stances work, check out the report

Southpaw Versus Orthodox Explained! That comes along with the Boxing

Training Foundation.

The Mechanics of the Boxing Stance

Let's look at how we establish and maintain the boxing stance:

1. Your feet should be a little more than shoulder width apart, with the

front foot being at an angle of 45 degrees to an imaginary line drawn

from the toe on the front foot to the heel on the back foot (the line is not

so imaginary on the video, but you get the point). By ensuring that the feet

are slightly offset and a comfortable distance apart, you provide the best

possible base upon which to develop the full boxing stance.

2. Remain slightly on the balls of both feet. Never allow your back foot to

go flat; otherwise you’ll have the mobility of an anvil. Ensure that your

knees are bent slightly and relaxed, again maximizing the ability to be

mobile

3. As an orthodox boxer, the left shoulder is closest to the opponent. Both

shoulders should be aligned in the general direction of the

opponent. This alignment of the shoulders minimizes the target area to

the opponent and also offers more leverage when throwing back hand

power punches (right hand). Reverse this if you are a southpaw.

4. Bring your hands up to cheek level, turning the palms of your hands

very slightly toward you. This will have the effect of drawing your

elbows in to provide protection for your body. Make a fist with your

hands, but don’t ‘clench’ that fist, stay relaxed.



Page 51

5. Rest your chin on your chest, without tensing up. Effectively, you look

‘through’ the eyebrows. By doing this, your chin will remain as well

protected as it can be (punches on the chin often have a very undesirable

effect.)

6. Ensure that your body weight remains central or on the back leg.

Don’t fall into the habit of allowing your bodyweight to ‘lean’ onto your

front leg.

Common Faults with the Boxing Stance

The common faults with the boxing stance that you must be aware of are:

1. Turning your shoulders ’square on’, thereby offering the opponent a

much greater target to hit.

2. Losing the imaginary line from the toe on your front foot to the heel

on your back foot, thereby messing up your balance. This is the

equivalent of walking a tightrope whilst someone throws punches at you.

3. Going flat-footed, thereby messing up your ability to be mobile.

4. Allowing your chin to lift above the height of the raised hands, thereby

increasing the chances of being smacked in the mouth.

5. Allowing your body weight to transfer onto your front leg, thereby

making you “front- heavy” and vulnerable to attack, adding your own

weight to the power of any incoming shots from the opponent.

TIP!

A simple way to ensure that your weight does not lean forward is to drop

an imaginary line from your nose. Never allow this line to advance past

your front knee. Problem solved.



Page 52

And there you have it. All of the skills and drills will be demonstrated from the

static boxing stance. It will become second nature to you as you progress

through the Boxing Training Foundation. Check out Annex 3 for a list of the Do's

and Don'ts of the Boxing Stance, ideal to print and put in a visible place as a

prompt to get the job done properly.



Page 53

Core Skill #2 – The Jab

Video Timed-point

2 21:36

The Basics of the Jab

The jab is your most important punch. The jab allows you to control an

opponent, be it on the attack or on the defensive. The jab provides a main

method of commencing an attack and is consistently proven as a fight winner.

Few things are more demoralising to an opponent as being continually popped in

the face with a fast, accurate and well-timed jab.

Whilst we can talk about a fast and accurate jab, it’s surprising how many boxers

allow bad habits to creep in when using the jab. As mentioned, if the jab is

thrown correctly it’s a winner. On the other hand, if it isn’t used properly,

then it’s a key chink in the armour that will provide very few opportunities for

attack and more realistically a regular opportunity for an opponent to hit you

with a counter-punch.

The Mechanics of the Jab

The mechanics of the punch are as follows:

1. From the boxing stance, the first action is a push from your front foot,

which in turn rotates the upper-body slightly so that the hips and

shoulders will align with the opponent. The upper-body rotation is

clockwise for an orthodox boxer and counter-clockwise for a

southpaw.



Page 54

2. As the rotation is taking place, fire out your lead arm, ensuring that the

elbow follows the same line as the fist i.e. there is no lateral movement

of the elbow at all, whatsoever.

3. The punch must accelerate towards the target, it must NOT travel at

the same speed all the way. As your fist approaches the target (having

covered about 75% of the distance) rotate it inwards (clockwise for an

orthodox, counter-clockwise for a southpaw), so that the palm is facing

down towards the floor. At the last moment, clench your fist and ’snap’

it onto the target.

4. Your fist should return along the same line as before, returning to the

‘home’ position as quickly as it went out.

Common Faults with the Jab

There are a number of common problems that may occur when you are throwing

the jab:

1. Don't succumb to the urge to try and hit too hard. The desire to throw

the punch hard will often result in your weight transferring to the front

leg. This has the effect of badly impairing your balance and making you

very vulnerable to counter-attack. An additional problem is that your own

bodyweight adds power to your opponent's shots.

2. Don't drop your hands as the shot is being thrown. A big problem is

the back hand dropping as the jab goes, or the back hand elbow 'flaring'

up and exposing the body to attack. A tip to help avoid this is to rest your

back hand on your cheek and your right elbow against your ribs.

Don't become tense, you must stay relaxed.

3. Similar to the previous fault, don't allow your head to lift as you throw

the shot. Allowing your head to lift will leave your jaw and chin horribly

exposed to attack.



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4. Don't 'telegraph' the punch, meaning that telltale movement takes place

before the shot goes. These movements are often a) the lead arm elbow

lifting to the side (flaring) or b) the fist dropping slightly, both of which

are dead giveaways. Focus on being economical with your movement

and you should minimise the likelihood telegraphing your punch.

5. Don't allow the punch to become an upper-body movement. Ensure

that the rotation of the upper-body is generated by the push from the

front foot.

And that’s about it really. A good, reliable jab is worth it’s weight in gold. I

suspect that if you asked any competing boxer which hand he or she would

rather do without, it would be the non-jabbing hand even though this is the

physically stronger arm. I think that the trick is not to take the jab for granted.

Use a mirror to ensure that none of the common faults are creeping into the shot.

Once an opponent ‘makes’ your jab, then the chances of coming out on top at the

end of the fight are minimal. Check out Annex 4 for a list of Jab Do's and Don'ts.

Print this and put on the wall of the gym.



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Core Skill #3 – The Straight Back Hand

Video Timed-point

2 26:58

The Basics of the Straight Back Hand

If you are an orthodox boxer, the straight back hand is also referred to as the

right cross. As a southpaw it is also referred to as the left cross. The straight

back hand is the shot that carries the most straight-line power and very often

follows on from the jab. The reason that the straight back hand carries power is

due to the amount of rotation of the hips via drive from the legs, much greater

you'll notice from the rotation required during the jab. An important point

though, if the shot is not thrown correctly, it leaves you vulnerable to attack and

can result in a significant reduction in your confidence in the shot, something I’ve

witnessed regularly over the years.

The straight back hand is part of the ‘bread and butter’ of boxing. The ability

to ’soften up’ a target at long range makes the task of delivering a wider range of

combinations (incorporating hooks and uppercuts) much easier. The shot plays a

major role in the Foundation Drills and when used in conjunction with the jab

is an extremely potent weapon. It is a basic shot, but it's worth noting that

95% of what elite athletes do are the basics, they just do them very well.

The Mechanics of the Straight Back Hand

The video demonstrates clearly the mechanics of the straight back hand, but to

reinforce the video the following points should be read and understood:

1. From the boxing stance, the first action is a push from the ball of your

back foot. This thrust generates the power to rotate your hips. As



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previously mentioned, there is a significant rotation of the hips around

the vertical, central axis; clockwise for an orthodox, counter-clockwise

for a southpaw. As an orthodox, if you think of the stance being held on

the face of a clock on the floor, your left hip would be in the starting

position at 11 o’clock, whilst your right hip would be in the starting

position at 5 o’clock. Following rotation, your right hip will arrive at 2

o’clock and your left hip will arrive at 8 o’clock.

2. During the rotation of your hips, your lead leg bends slightly at the

knee. Without this bending of the front leg, you would be unable to

maximize the rotation of your hips. Note also that the rotation takes place

around the vertical, central axis as described in the video.

3. Just after the start of the hip rotation, the back hand must accelerate

toward the target along a straight line, seeking to follow a line through

the opponent’s gloves and onto the target. Make sure that the shot

accelerates rather than travelling at the same continuous speed. The

acceleration will enhance the overall power of the shot.

4. As your fist approaches the target (having covered about 75% of the

distance), rotate your hand (counter-clockwise for an orthodox, clockwise

for a southpaw) so that the palm is facing down towards the floor. At the

point of impact, clench your fist and 'snap' it onto the target, looking

to generate the same whiplash action as with the jab.

5. Your fist should return along the same line as before, returning to the

‘home’ position as per the stance. Make sure that the shot returns as

quickly as it went out.

Common Faults with the Back Hand

There are a number of common problems that can occur when throwing the

straight back hand:



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1. Rather than a push from the back foot, which ‘drives’ power through the

leg and into the hips, you might be tempted to ’spin’ the back foot.

Spinning the back foot results in a potentially significant reduction in the

power delivered by the shot.

2. The punch is ‘telegraphed’, or telltale movement takes place before the

punch begins it’s journey. The most common give-away on the straight

back hand is a ‘drawback’ of the hand, the result of trying to hit too hard.

When the shot is telegraphed, it is very unlikely to land cleanly.

3. Don't allow the punch to become an upper-body movement. Ensure

that the rotation of the upper-body is generated by the drive from your

back foot, otherwise you end up with an ‘arm’ shot.

4. Don't bend your body forward and off the central axis. This will

reduce the power of your shot and potentially increase the power of any

shot coming back at you.

5. The final common fault is that often the lead hand will drop from the

‘home’ position close to the cheek, both telegraphing the punch and

leaving a large hole in your defenses.

So there you have it. The straight back hand, along with the jab, form the

basis of the punches used in the Boxing Training Foundation. Sure these are

basic punches, but they form the foundation of the style of every boxer. They are

also the most commonly used shots in boxing and must be mastered prior to

advancing to hooks and uppercuts. The next 6 Core Skills and subsequent

Foundation Drills will allow you to get the absolute maximum benefits of

the jab and the straight back hand.

Check out Annex 5 for a coaching aid list of Do's and Don'ts of the straight back

hand.



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Core Skill #4 – Moving In and Out

Video Timed-point

2 31:42

The Basics of Moving In and Out

Boxing footwork, rather unsurprisingly, involves using the feet to move in a

number of directions, two of which are moving forward and backward, more

commonly described as ‘moving in and out’. Boxing footwork in the main

involves some relatively simple physical movements in order to enable the

desired movement to take place. Moving in and out is the most commonly used

of the footwork movements, as it is a key method of getting into range to 'do

the damage' and then getting out again to a safe distance.

So much of boxing relates to understanding your position in relation to

your opponent, and we define this as “range.” Just as we covered in the Before

You Start section, when boxing you can consider from the outset that you will be

‘in range’ (both for your shots to go but also for the opponent’s shots to land on

you) or ‘out of range.’ When you are in range, this can be broken down further

into short, medium and long range. For the purposes of the Boxing Training

Foundation, I want you to focus on 'the edge of range' and long range.

Having considered range, you should also understand that successful boxing

relies on the ability to be ‘on the edge of range’, meaning that you are only

very slightly beyond the range of your opponent’s punches. This means that you

are able, with a short explosive movement of the feet, to get within range, land

effective shots and move out again before the inevitable response from the

opponent. Being on the edge of range and providing that threat of mobility is a



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method of applying pressure to an opponent and enabling control of the

situation.

Moving in and out is your introduction to mobility, and as such is a crucial

piece of the boxing jigsaw. Effective combat is reliant on effective mobility;

this is something that you must acknowledge in order to progress. The

Foundation Drills and Mobility Drills will be key in you developing and

improving your mobility as a fighter. There is also a very helpful game that you

can use if you are working with a partner. You'll find details of this game when

you get to Foundation Drill #1.

The Mechanics of Moving In and Out

Moving In

Moving InThe mechanics of moving in:


back foot.

2. Your front foot should lift very slightly from the floor, and by 'slightly' I

mean a tiny amount, allowing the power generated from the push from

your back foot to propel your body and therefore your front foot

forward.

3. Allow your back foot to follow it’s course, catching up with the front

foot.

4. The entire movement should be no more than 6 to 8 centimetres, and

you should retain your stance throughout, ensuring that the distance

between the two legs remains approximately the same.



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Moving Out

The mechanics of moving out are unsurprisingly the exact opposite of moving in:


front foot.

2. Lift your back foot very slightly from the floor, allowing the power

generated from the push from the front foot to propel the body and

therefore the back foot backward.

3. Allow your front foot to follow it’s course, catching up with the back foot.

4. The entire movement should be no more than 6 to 8 centimetres, and

as before you should retain your stance throughout ensuring that the

distance between your legs remains broadly the same.

Common Faults When Moving In and Out

There are a number of common problems that can occur when developing the

boxing footwork skills to move in and out and these are well worth being aware

of:

1. You might ’step and drag’. For example, when moving forward, the front

foot will step and the back foot will be dragged forward (vice versa when

moving backward). This method of movement does not allow the speed

required for the purposes of not getting beaten up.

2. The distance between your two feet should remain roughly the same

during the movement. This is a further reason why aiming to move only

6 to 8 centimetres is desirable. If the stance narrows significantly during

movement, then you will be off-balance and less able to attack effectively

or of more concern to defend effectively.



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3. Don't flatten either of your feet. Going flat-footed will seriously restrict

your mobility. Remember the old saying “Float like a butterfly”, flat feet

will not allow butterfly-like floating.

4. Your front foot might point toward the opponent rather than retaining

the 45 degree angle to the imaginary line. Losing your 45 degree angle

will cause big problems with your balance, particularly when throwing

the straight back hand. It is really important to avoid this particular fault.

5. As covered when examining the boxing stance, it is during movement that

you are likely to lose the line from the toe on the front foot to the heel

on the back foot. This again has the effect of taking you off-balance

(remember the tight-rope walking point).

What we are looking at here, as with other core skills, is something that is in

essence simple and straightforward. But remember, practice makes perfect. Go

to Annex 6 for a gym-list of Do's and Don'ts when moving in and out. Put the

time into getting this movement right, it’s so very, very important.



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Core Skill #5 – Moving Side to Side

Video Timed-point

2 36:05

The Basics of Moving Side to Side

It’s a very simple fact that all top boxers possess great footwork and balance. The

ability to remain highly mobile whilst under full control and in total balance

offers you the ability to maximize your opportunities to land effective shots.

Moving from side to side, also referred to as ‘sidestepping’, is a key skill to

master as it plays such a massive role during offensive and defensive actions.

Sidestepping allows you to cut off the ring, maintaining pressure on your

opponent. The side step also allows new angles for attack to be opened and for

dynamic defensive counter-punching opportunities to be exploited.

Footwork, sidestepping and moving in and out, are both primary elements

of controlling the opponent inside the boxing ring. The side step is a key

tactical skill that must become second nature to you. The move should combine

speed and control and be carried out with efficiency.

The Mechanics of Sidestepping

As with all moves, stay relaxed, don’t tense-up.

The Side Step to the Right (Orthodox)

1. From the boxing stance the first action is a push from the ball of your

front foot. The push should be ’sharp’, and aimed at providing the drive

to thrust the body to the right.



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2. Your back foot should lift very slightly from the floor, allowing the

power generated from the push from the front foot to shift the body in a

straight line to the right. Your back foot should ‘glide’ as opposed to

stepping.

3. Allow your front foot to follow its course, catching up with the back

foot in order to restore the stance.

The Side Step to the Left (Orthodox)

Pretty much the reverse of the side step right:

1. From the boxing stance, the first action is a push from your back foot.

The push should be ’sharp’, and aimed at providing the drive to thrust the

body to the left.

2. Your front foot should lift very slightly from the floor, allowing the

power generated from the push from the back foot to shift the body in a

straight line to the left. Your front foot should ‘glide’ as opposed to

stepping.

3. Allow your back foot to follow its course, catching up with the front

foot in order to restore the stance.

Common Faults with Sidestepping

The following problems can occur when performing the side step:

1. As with moving in and out, you might ’step and drag’ rather than using

a sharp ‘push and glide’. For example, when sidestepping to the right as

an orthodox, your back foot might step across and the front foot might be

dragged across to the right. This approach does not offer the same speed

capability as the push and glide.



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2. Avoid becoming flat-footed. This again will result in a very ‘clunky’,

almost robotic action. Remain on the balls of your feet and stay relaxed.

3. Don't allow your legs to ‘cross’. For example, when moving right as an

orthodox, the front leg might step across to the right, ‘crossing’ the line

from the back foot (think boxing stance). Following this, your back leg

might also step across. The same problem can occur when sidestepping

either left or right, and it’s a bad mistake to make.

Go to Annex 7 for the gym-list of Do's and Don'ts for sidestepping. So now we

have the detail on the straight shots and movement in four directions. Next

up we are going to look at 3 more core skills that will add some versatility to

these basics.



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Core Skill #6 – Ducking

Video Timed-point

2 39:55

The Basics of Ducking

There are two main reasons why you will duck in boxing. The first most

obvious reason is as a boxing defense to avoid an opponent’s punches. The

second reason is to engage the opponent with body shots. There is a third

reason, which relates to ‘feinting’ to draw a reaction from the opponent. This

is dealt with in the article 'Feinting in Boxing' which we cover in Foundation Drill

#4.

Ducking is one of the most simple boxing techniques to learn, and when

executed correctly and at the right time opens up many avenues for attack as

well reducing the risk of taking head shots. When ducking, it is very important

to observe the simple mechanics to avoid introducing the common faults.

When bad habits sneak into the technique of ducking, the penalty paid can be

severe.

The Mechanics of Ducking

The mechanics of ducking punches or ducking for body shots are simple. As with

all boxing techniques, efficiency is the key.

1. From the boxing stance, bend both of your legs at the knees, ensuring

that you keep your back straight.

2. The bending of the knees should almost be a ‘drop’ allowing the duck to

happen at the required speed.



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3. Drop only enough for an oncoming punch to ‘graze’ the top of your

head. This brings us back to our point about the efficiency of the

technique.

4. Return to the starting position as quickly as the knees ‘dropped’ at the

start of the technique. At full speed, ducking should be performed as

quickly as a punch is thrown.

Common Faults with Ducking

Some basic errors are often made when ducking punches or ducking to throw

body shots:

1. Bending at the waist rather than dropping at the knees. Bending your

waist will result in your upper body moving forward and downward; you

will finish up looking at the floor rather than the opponent. If you can’t

see your opponent, then you can't see your opponent's punches coming at

you. If you can't see punches, then it is much more difficult to defend

against them. Moving down and forward also offers a great opportunity

for the opponent to land punches, in particular a hurtful shot like an

uppercut. Really, you need to avoid this fault.

2. Dropping too low, wasting energy and reducing the likelihood of landing

your own counter punches.

3. Not bending the knees when throwing straight shots to the body,

meaning that you punch down. Doing this means that your hand is away

from the guard position for marginally longer than it needs to be. OK, it’s

only a split second, but it’s long enough to take an incoming shot.

Find a gym-list of do's and don'ts at Annex 8.



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Core Skill #7 – The Lay Back

Video Timed-point

3 00:00

About the Lay Back

The Lay Back is a brilliant skill that provides ways of joining together

combinations of punches. It is a skill that was used extensively by Muhammad

Ali, particularly following his 3-year absence when he was less mobile on his

feet. The lay back takes the upper body from long range to the edge of range,

allowing you to deliver a consistent shellacking of an opponent whilst ensuring

that any counter-punches fall just short. Whilst this is a simple skill to explain,

ensure that you study the mechanics and video and in particular be aware of the

2 common faults.

The Mechanics of the Lay Back

The mechanics are very simple:

1. From the boxing stance, simply increase the bend in your back leg. This

bend of the leg has the effect of ‘dropping’ your upper body out of range of

incoming punches.

2. The bend in the leg reduces, returning the body shape to the original

boxing stance.

Common Faults with the Lay Back

There isn't a long list of common faults associated with the Lay Back, in fact just

the two:



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1. Rather than the back leg bending, you might lean back at the waist. Not

only is this method bad for your back, more dangerously if the opponent

presses the attack then you literally have nowhere to go.

2. As your back leg bends, your lead hand might drop leaving a massive

opening for incoming head-shots. It feels ‘comfortable’ to drop the hand,

but don’t as it leaves a major opening for shots to your jaw.

And that’s it. We’ll be using the lay back extensively during the development of

our Foundation Drills, you'll see how this outstanding skill can really add

multiple dimensions to throwing punches.

Why not print the gym-list of Do's and Don'ts for the Lay Back at Annex 9.



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Core Skill #8 – The Pivot

Video Timed-point

3 02:33

The Basics of the Pivot

Our 8th and final core skill is the pivot. The pivot is one of those often-

overlooked aspects of boxing. The main reason that the boxing pivot is

overlooked is that on the face of it the pivot is not a ‘glamorous’ skill. The pivot

doesn’t for instance offer the potential for an explosive end to a contest as does a

short range left hook. Nor does the pivot catch the eye in the same way as does

evading an attack by using deft slips and ducks. What I want to achieve by

including the pivot in the Boxing Training Foundation is to provide proof that the

pivot is the single most versatile skill that a boxer uses, providing options to

unlock many an adversary. So here goes...

Here are 3 examples of the pivot being used in a boxing match. There are many

more, but I think that these 3 are enough to demonstrate the importance of

perfecting the pivot:

1. You’re taking on a boxer who closes the ground very quickly and pulls

you into a short-range battle. You’re not very comfortable and your

opponent is very strong and powerful, looking to use strength to push

you back. Pivoting allows you to cancel out the strength of your opponent

by deflecting their line of attack without you retreating. You are free

to unleash short-range shots without having to give way to your

opponent’s greater strength.

2. You’re taking on a boxer who’s supremely talented on the retreat but

doesn’t offer the same threat on the attack. You can attempt to chase your

opponent down, cutting off the ring, but you are aware that by doing this



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you’ll be fighting to your opponent’s strength. So what do you do? You

take the centre of the ring, maintaining your position by pivoting to

follow your opponent, and you are ready for the inevitable attack. You

are controlling your environment by using a simple pivot.

3. You’re fighting on the retreat, with an opponent whose goal is to back you

to the ropes and smash you to within an inch of your life. Given the

intensity of your opponent’s attack, you are aware of the potential for this

destructive goal being achieved. Solution? Every time you feel the rope

even brush against your back, you combine a pivot with a duck and

spin away from danger, leaving your opponent to punch fresh air.

I could go on, the options are wide-ranging to say the least. So I’ll assume for now

that you are sold on the usefulness and versatility of the pivot in boxing and are

now eager to know exactly how to execute this classy skill.

The Mechanics of the Pivot

To perform this skill, follow the steps outlined below:

To Pivot to the Left (Orthodox)

1. From the boxing stance, push from the ball of your back foot and allow

the front foot to spin on its ball.

2. The objective is to shift your baseline (the line from the toe on the front

foot to the heel on the back foot) through 45 degrees. Your front foot

rotates on the spot enabling the back foot to move across to your left.

Your stance should be retained throughout the pivot.

To Pivot to the Right (Orthodox)



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1. From the stance, spin your front foot on the spot and allow a slight lift

of your back foot.

2. The same shift of 45 degrees takes place, only this time to the right. Don’t

be tempted to allow your body weight to go over your front leg, your

weight should remain central or on the back leg as always.

Common Faults with the Pivot

There's actually only one common fault, but it’s serious. Maintain the stance

throughout the move. This means that you don’t allow your body weight to

transfer to the front leg. The urge to lean forward is strong, but you must

control this urge and maintain your bodyweight centrally or on the back leg.

Go to Annex 10 for the Do's and Don'ts.



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Foundation Drills

So we have looked in detail at the 8 Core Skills that underpin the skills the Boxing

Training Foundation. The next step is to develop ways in which we can put these

skills together in the right way. This is where our Foundation Drills offer so

much.

Successfully combining punching with movement is, in my view, the most vital

aspect of the boxing style. The Foundation Drills of the Boxing Training

Foundation are designed specifically to give a structured and systematic

approach for you to understand the how and why of punching and movement.

Some tips before we start:

Be meticulous in your approach to these drills. Avoid the urge to rush

them, work slowly and mechanically and build up the speed gradually.

If at all possible, use a mirror when practicing these drills. This will

allow real time analysis of what you are doing and will enable you to

make adjustments accordingly, effectively becoming your own coach.

Be sure to print the lists of Core Skills Do's and Don'ts at the back of

this manual and hang them in a prominent place in your practice area.

Avoid these mistakes at all costs as the negative impact of a fault in one

skill is magnified when combining other skills. The key to improving is

to identify that you have an issue. Along with the use of a mirror, these

Do's and Don'ts will prompt you to continually 'coach' your own style and

apply improvements accordingly.

OK, here is the list of the 5 Foundation Drills within the Boxing Training

Foundation:

Foundation Drill#1 - Single jab with movement.

Foundation Drill#2 – Multiple jabs with movement.



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FoundationDrill#3 – Movement with jabs and the straight back hand.

FoundationDrill#4 – Incorporating the duck and the lay back

FoundationDrill#5 – Incorporating the pivot.

In the short term, when doing the 3 x 2 minute rounds, practice each of the first 3

Foundation Drills plus Mobility Drill #1. These drills should be mastered

before progressing to the other drills and before attempting to incorporate

the array of punches on the MyBoxingCoach website. Let's walk before we run.

So, the initial approach is:

Round Drills

1 Mobility Drill #1 and Foundation Drill #1

2 Foundation Drill #2

3 Foundation Drill #3

Having gotten comfortable with these drills, you could progress to the following

format:

Round Drills

1 Mobility Drill #1 and Foundation Drill #1

2 Foundation Drill #2 and Foundation Drill #2

3 Foundation Drill #4 and Foundation Drill #5

Annex 11 contains a simple list of our Foundation Drills.



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You can probably guess that there are many possible variations here, so when

you get comfortable, try to come up with your own drills and arrangements.

Of course another benefit of the foundation drills is that you need not be in the

throes of a gym session to practice them. Any time you have a spare few minutes,

try them out. I won't say, “Do these 3 times a week for 4 weeks and you'll be

ready.” The fact is, you will know when these drills are having the desired

effect and you should incorporate other drills only when you are ready. This is

very much a process that will provide results at different stages depending upon

you. Be honest with yourself. If you need a few more sessions, take a few more

sessions. The harder you practice, the luckier you get.

TIP!

Foundation Drill #2 is absolutely vital for your future development. This

drill will open the door to the vast array of other punches described on the

MyBoxingCoach website. However, there is a very good reason why I have

restricted the Boxing Training Foundation to mainly straight shots.

Straight shots are the most important punches in boxing. It is pointless

getting yourself caught up in the complexities of hooks and uppercuts too

early in the process. Get the straight shots mastered and then deal with

the more complex (and risky) hooks and uppercuts.



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Foundation Drill #1 – Single Jab with Movement

Video Timed-point

3 06:06

The jab when thrown from a static position is a potent weapon. The jab when

delivered whilst moving is 'Total Boxing'. It is the ultimate 'building block' for

success. As well as being the chief points scorer, the jab is the primary method of

'range finding' and breaking open the defences of the opponent. If the jab

lands, then you know that any other of your battery of shots can be thrown and

landed. The jab is by far the easiest punch to throw 'on the move' (in fact, the

straight back hand/right cross will always be thrown from a static position, but

more about that later.)

Moving forward and jabbing 'breaks open' the defences of the opponent,

allowing you to take the offensive initiative and taking the fight out of the hands

of the opposition. Jabbing whilst retreating provides a major deterrent

against a 'pressure fighter', allowing you to maintain the range and set up any

number of counter-punching opportunities (we'll learn more about counter-

punching during subsequent drills).

In order to master jabbing with movement, it is important to understand the

mechanics of each individual skill and how these mechanics may

complement each other when combining the skills i.e. how the mechanics of

each skill may work well together. So, as a starting point, lets examine the

elements of the 'Jab with Movement' Foundation Drill:

The drill combines the jab with a movement in any of 4 directions;

forward, backwards, left and right.



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The jab always starts with a push from the front leg, resulting in a

clockwise rotation of the upper body for an orthodox boxer, or a counter-

clockwise rotation for a southpaw.

As an orthodox, moving forwards or to your left always starts with a

push off the back leg (right), and moving backwards or to your right

always starts with a push off the front leg (left).

We can see here that when throwing a jab and moving backwards or to your

right there are definite complementary mechanics i.e. the push of the front leg

to trigger the jab and the push off the front leg to move backwards or to the right.

When moving forward or to the left though, we can see that there could be a

clash of mechanics i.e. to move forward or right, you push off the back leg

whilst to jab the opposite is true in that the push is from the front leg.

So, how do we deal with this? What you have to do is treat the initial action of

the jab as a 'trigger'. To start the jab, there is much less power needed from a

push of the front leg to rotate the body than from a push from the back leg to

propel the mass of the body forward. This means that the initial push off the

front leg when throwing a jab moving forward is almost unnoticeable,

particularly when measured against the effort put into pushing the body

forward. The jab and the move forward are truly combined; this can be seen

clearly on the video.

However, don't get too fanatical about 'feeling' the initial push to rotate the

body as part of the jab. It is far more important to ensure that the common

faults of each skill are not produced during the drill. Remember, don't lean

forward, don't go flat-footed and don't allow your back leg to drift directly

behind your front leg.

Check out the ‘tag boxing’ link overleaf which, if you are working with a partner,

provides details of a great game that really helps in developing your 'feel' for



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range. This will help you to master the art of movement and punching in a

shorter time frame.


Tag Boxing

Core Skill 2 - The Jab

Core Skill 4 – Moving in and out

Core Skill 5 – Sidestepping

TIP!

Be sure to check out Mobility Drill #1 now!

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfTagBoxing



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Foundation Drill #2 – Multiple Jabs with Movement

Video Timed-point

3 13:33

In Foundation Drill #1 we examined quite closely the way in which we jab whilst

on the move. The next step is to build up your repertoire by learning to use

multiple jabs, and to achieve this we are going to have to build in rhythm.

Don't panic, I'm not going to demand that you begin Salsa dancing lessons. You

do however need to ensure that there is a flow to how your shots, footwork and

body movement combine, and this drill is an effective way to develop the rhythm

and flow that all top boxers demonstrate every time they step into the ring.

So why do we use multiple jabs? Well, controlling range is a vital element of your

boxing. Multiple jabs used on the attack are incredibly effective, with an

increase in power with each shot leaving the opponent in disarray and ripe for

follow up attacks. Sugar Ray Leonard once said, “I'm not known as a hard

puncher, I'm known as a consistent puncher. If the first one don't get you, the next

one will.” That is the essence of using multiple jabs.

Let's look at retreating. You really don't want to get into the position of giving up

ground to an opponent without exacting a price. Multiple jabs were tailor-

made for backing off. There is no rule that says you must attack all of the time.

The best boxers are those who can be versatile, providing a true threat both

when moving forwards and backwards.

Some tips on Foundation Drill #2:

Don't forget the lessons that you have learned in Foundation Drill #1.

So, don't lose the offset back foot, don't go flat-footed and don't lean



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forward. Don't leave your upper arm extended in between jabs. You may

feel that this is easier but you will lose power and leave the leading side of

your body horribly exposed.

The mechanics of using multiple jabs are the same as using a single

jab, just ensure again that you start slowly and build up the speed. Co-

ordination and rhythm are vital.

On a final note, you will often see a single jab thrown from the static position.

You will very rarely see multiple jabs thrown from a static position.

Doubling and trebling up on your jabs requires that you are able to effortlessly

combine foot movement with the shots. This drill is what you need and is

probably as important as anything else with learn in the Boxing Training

Foundation.






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Foundation Drill #3 – Jab and Straight Back Hand with Movement

Video Timed-point

3 19:20

We have covered in Foundation Drill #1 and Foundation Drill #2 the process of

jabbing whilst moving in 4 different directions and developing multiple jabs on

the move. Now is the time for you to begin using the 'heavy artillery';

unleashing that dynamite straight back hand onto the target.

Throwing the jab then the straight back hand is known in boxing as 'the one-

two'. In fact, a main purpose of the jab is to 'pave the way' for the straight back

hand, to set the big shot up having caused confusion in the defences of the

opponent. The jab is the least risky punch to use and this is another reason why

the jab is used much more than any other punch. The straight back hand takes

more effort and slightly increases your risk of taking incoming, but this

doesn't mean that it won't be your most potent and destructive weapon.

Foundation Drill #3 has within it quite a few variations. We shall put to one side

for the moment the use of multiple jabs, and look more closely at the following:

The one-two from a static position.

The one-two on the attack

The one-two on the retreat

The one-two 'split' with a side step'

Now, there are a couple of vital rules that you must follow when using this drill.

Applying these rules will speed the development of your ability to throw great

shots whilst on the move:



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The jab can be thrown whilst the feet are moving.

The straight back hand must be thrown from a static position, that is

the feet must remain in the same position on the floor throughout the

shot.

The reason that you must be must be static when throwing the back hand is that

it is a power shot. In order for the shot to carry power, the back foot must

provide an anchor to the floor. Without the back foot taking this role, the shot

will simply not 'explode' onto the target as it needs to. This shot is about

power, and correct technique will provide this power. And when I say static, this

means that your feet are still only momentarily, just long enough to deliver the

shot. After the shot lands you can move in any direction you want, whether

on the attack or the retreat.

This leads us on to a bit of knowledge that will allow you to develop the use of

the mid-range left hook (there's a link in the Associated Resources box below).

Just like the jab, the lead hand hook can be thrown 'on the move.' This is because

the angle that the shot takes to the target allows more of a 'whiplash' action and

the body weight is on the back foot at the end of the hook. This means that the

hook can be delivered with 'snap' and power. As described in the video, you can

create a 'one-two-three' as follows:

1. Combine the move in with the jab

2. Throw the straight back hand

3. Combine the mid-range left hook with a move forward in order to close

from long range to mid-range.

If you were to use the mid-range right hook in a 2-shot combination, for example

jab followed by the hook, then you need to increase (very slightly) the movement

forward and if necessary lengthen the hook, again only slightly. This would allow



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your feet to be static when throwing the hook because you have moved from the

edge of range to mid-range.

So, now you should begin to see how you could really develop your

capability to throw basic, successful combinations. This principle can help

you, when using other punching and body movement skills, to join up simple

combinations to me much more dynamic in your attacking options. Here's where

Foundation Drill #4 comes in.


Mid-Range Left Hook

Mid-Range Right Hook


Core Skill 3 – The Straight Back Hand


Core Skill 5 – Moving side-to-side

TIP!

Be sure to understand what you have just achieved in moving from long

range to mid range WHILST THROWING A PUNCH. This very much

broadens your horizons!

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfLeftHookMR

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfRightHookMR



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Foundation Drill #4 – Incorporating the Duck and the Lay Back

Video Timed-point

3 27:11

The first 3 drills of the Boxing Training Foundation have focused on developing

movement and punching, reinforcing that combining the two are a vital building

block of a successful boxing style. We have also during Foundation Drill #3

looked at developing simple boxing combinations. With this drill, I want you to

incorporate two body movements that add new dimensions to your boxing;

the beginnings of body punching, the basics of counter punching and the

development of the simple combinations into damaging barrages of punches.

Ducking

The first body movement we will look at is ducking, covered in Core Skill 6. You

will use the duck as a method of delivering the kind of body shots that will stop a

train. Check out the video where you will see how to combine ducking with

movement and punching in the following ways:

Jab to the head and straight back hand to the body moving in and out.

Jab to the head and straight back hand to the body moving in and out.

TIP!

The beauty of the second part of the drill is that we can use that straight

back hand to the body on the retreat. This is a great way of maximizing the

power of a straight shot to the body, allowing you to use the mass of the

oncoming opponent to increase the power generated.



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The Lay Back

The lay back allows us to join shots together. This is a process we call

'phased attacking', where your attack has intentional and brief pauses designed

to improve the chances of your shots landing. This is in effect counter-

punching. Many would consider counter-punching a process of waiting for an

opponent to throw a shot, then doing something to prevent that shot from hitting

you, then responding with your own punches. This is not entirely true.

Successful counter-punching is more proactive than this in that the ideal

situation is that you do something to make your opponent throw a shot. This

increases your chances of being able to predict when your opponent's shots will

be thrown, giving you a split-second advantage in terms of response times. This

process is referred to as 'drawing the lead'.

In general, there are three ways to draw the lead of the opponent:

1. Throwing your own punch (many boxers when hit instinctively hit back)

2. Using what is known as a feint (check out the Associated Resource box

over the page)

3. Simply moving into range.

Successfully adding the lay back on to the end of each of these actions will result

in the opponent's shots falling short and leaving the opening for your counter-

punch. So, we build pre-determined sequences of skills (a drill) in order to

'be ahead of the game' when boxing.

The drill is in sequences:

1. Jab – Lay Back – Jab

2. Jab – Lay Back – One-Two



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3. Jab – Lay Back – Back Hand.

Ensure that when executing the lay back your feet remain static and you

bend your back leg, not your back. This drill actually breaks down into 5 drills. I

shall leave it up to you to decide how to practice these skills within the work out.

You may wish to focus purely on the ducking, or alternatively just on the lay

back. You may wish to practice a single mini-drill for a full round, or indeed work

through all 5 one after the other. However you choose to approach this, you

should know that boxers at an advanced level would be very happy to

practice this exact type of drill. Why? Because the basics work well, whatever

level you are at.


Feinting in Boxing

Core Skill 2 – The Jab

Core Skill 3 – The Straight Back Hand



Core Skill 6 – Ducking

Core Skill 7 – The Lay Back

Counter Punching and Boxing – The Difference?

Counter Punching – Deal With It!

TIP!

Try replacing the first jab in each sequence of the drill with any of the 3

feints described in the Feinting in Boxing article. This enables a major

development of your skills.

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfFeinting



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Foundation Drill #5 – Incorporating the Pivot

Video Timed-point

4 00:00

Core Skill #9 described in quite some detail the benefits of using the pivot within

your boxing style, so I'm not going to repeat those benefits here. With this final

foundation drill we are going to maintain the simplicity of using straight shots,

but again as in Foundation Drill #3 we are going to introduce the lead hand

hook, the left hook for the orthodox and the right hook for the southpaw. The

pivot and the lead hand hook are just too good together so it seems a shame to

talk pivots without talking hooks also.

Something that I mention in the video, but is worth reiterating here, is that it is

more comfortable to move to your 'lead foot' side when pivoting. So, an

orthodox boxer will pivot easier to their left than to their right, vice versa for a

southpaw; this has an influence on our inclusion of the lead hand hook. You

should also ensure that you remember the principle of holding static feet when

throwing the straight back hand, this principle does not change because we are

executing the pivot.

OK, we break this drill down into 3 sequences:

1. The pivot combined with the jab

2. The pivot combined with the jab and straight back hand

3. The pivot combined with the jab and (lead hand) left hook.

So why am I including the left hook here as well as at Foundation Drill #3? Well,

we re-emphasise that the lead hand shots can be thrown during movement

and the back hand shots cannot. But more than this, and this is getting into



Page 88

tactics, the pivot and lead hand hook is a highly effective sequence to use

against an opponent with an opposing stance, that is orthodox versus

southpaw or vice versa. The detail of this is included within the report Southpaw

Versus Orthodox Explained! but in simple terms it's because you can whip that

hook in over the opponent's lead hand.

You must get comfortable with the pivot. Within the Boxing Training

Foundation we use it at long and mid-range, and it's uniquely effective at these

ranges. When we come to infighting though, it is an absolutely superb skill that

will provide the 'golden ticket' to overcome just about any type of opponent.

TIP!

When we get to Phase 4 (Heavy Bag), you will see the double arm block

being used when up close to the bag. Exchange the jab in this drill for a

double arm block, this is a classy 'up close' skill to use.


Mid-Range Left Hook

Core Skill 2 – The Jab

Core Skill 8 – The Pivot

Double Arm Block

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfLeftHookMR

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfDoubleArmBlock



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Foundation Drills – A Final Word

You know how during the introduction of the Boxing Training Foundation I

talked about enabling you to become self-sufficient in your learning? Well,

the way to do this is to build upon these foundation drills with your own

variations using some of the other skills on the MyBoxingCoach website. Have a

think about the following variations and then get in touch with your creative

side.

In Foundation Drill #4, what would be the effect of replacing the lay back

with an outside slip and replacing the straight back hand with a long

range right hook? The difference between the lay back and the outside

slip is subtle, as indeed is the difference between the straight back hand

and long range right hook. However, because your body weight has

shifted outside of the opponent's counter (back and to the right as an

orthodox), there is additional leverage available to really hammer

home that long-range right hook to the target at a slightly different angle.

Again with Foundation Drill #4, what would be the effect of using the

move in with the duck (Mobility Drill #2) and then using the jab at the

end? The duck would become purely a long range defence, enabling you

to move from the edge of range to long range, under any long range shots

used by the opponent, and able to fire your own long range shots.

I could go on, the options are many and varied, so don't be reluctant to

experiment. The next step in Phase 2 of the Boxing Training Foundation is to look

at improving your mobility with our purpose-built Mobility Drills.


The Outside Slip

The Long Range Right Hook

Boxing Drills Cuban Style!

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfOutsideSlip

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfRightHookLR

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/boxing-drills-cuban-style



Page 90

Mobility Drills

The Foundation Drills have provided us with the fundamental basis upon

which you can build and develop your boxing style, I'm sure that you have

had enough of me going on and on about their importance. I think that as part of

your development it is important to provide you with the options to develop

other aspects of your style. So, I have developed ten drills that focus solely on

developing your capability to be mobile. But why is it important to be mobile I

hear you ask? Well, read on and I'll tell you.

It doesn't matter what particular 'type' of boxing style you want or indeed have,

the ability to be mobile is of paramount importance. Let's look at two very

different types of boxers and examine the mobility of each. Firstly is

Muhammad Ali, the ultimate 'dancer', who in the early part of his career was the

epitome of flashy movement, remaining on the balls of his feet throughout a

fight, dancing into range at angles and delivering blindingly fast salvoes of shots

into the bemused opponent. Let's face it, Sonny Liston had absolutely no idea

how to cope with the mobility and elusiveness of Ali, and Liston was an

incredibly dangerous fighter. Mobility and body movement was central to

Ali's style and success.

Let's now examine another heavyweight, one of more recent vintage. 'Iron' Mike

Tyson was as devastating a fighter as ever stepped into the ring, period. Now

most people think Tyson was about his punching power, but this is not a true

reflection of the skills of the man. Sure Tyson was a big puncher, but so are most

heavyweights. What separated Tyson from everyone else was his ability to

pressure an opponent and out-gun guys who had significant height and

reach advantages over him, even getting to the point of out-jabbing Larry

Holmes, the man who quite possibly possessed the best jab in heavyweight

history. How did he achieve this? You guessed it, superb mobility combined



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with exemplary body movement. Ali and Tyson; two very different fighters,

but with more in common than you would initially think.

So, the Mobility Drills within the Boxing Training Foundation are included to help

you on a number of levels, all important to the future development of your

boxing style. They introduce a range of skills that will open up your

offensive capabilities, in particular providing the ideal base upon which to

develop a devastating range of boxing combination punches incorporating

straight shots, hooks, uppercuts, head shots and body shots. The drills will also

contribute to your defensive make-up, enabling slick, controlled evasion of

punches.

Before you start, there are a couple of things to consider:

Don't attempt to tackle these drills too soon. Get the Foundation Drills

right and then move onto these (accepting that Mobility Drill #1 is used

alongside our Foundation Drills.)

It's good to spend time with these drills separately from punching.

You will know how to include your hooks and uppercuts when the time is

right. In the shorter term, get to know how to move like a boxer should by

combining slips, rolls various aspects of footwork.



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Mobility Drill #1 – Movement In and Out

Video Timed-point

4 08:31

Mobility Drill #1 is a very important drill to understand and master. It

draws entirely from Core Skill #4 and you will notice from the video that I have

presented the drill in 3 variations:

Move in and out – basic speed (aka “The Staple”)

Move in and out – competition speed (aka “The Closer”)

Move in and out – counter-punch speed (aka “The Stinger”).

A key point to note is the mechanics of each drill remain largely the same,

the key difference is the speed at which the drill is performed. The 2nd variation

of the drill is interesting in that this is the way in which we would pursue (close-

down) or retreat from an opponent. It is executed at the speed at which we

would 'track' a retreating opponent and cutting off the ring or alternatively

evading a determined attack. The key thing to note is on this variation is that you

should aim to build a rhythm. You should aim for consistency; if you can

string together 3 executions in a consistent way, then you have cracked it and

could do the same for 30 executions.

The 3rd variation is executed at top speed. The important factor to remember

here is that this type of move is intended to create opportunities to land your

own stinging shots. If in front of an opponent, the move would be executed

when you are at long range, moving to the edge of range and then back again to

fire your shots. Make sure that you have that instant trigger from the back foot to

'explode' back into range. This is the basis of supreme counter-punching.



Page 93

TIP!

Using Foundation Drills #2 and #3 as a base, exchange the type of

movement used there with the 3rd variation of this drill (at counter punch

speed.) This will give you an additional 2 drills for your practice sessions

Mobility Drill #2 – In and Out Combined with Ducking

Video Timed-point

4 12:49

This drill is directly related to Foundation Drill #4, except that here we do not

throw the shots. So why perform the drill without the shots? Well, it's quite

simple really. Combining movement with a simple duck provides benefits in two

ways:

It's an ultra-simple way of moving from the edge of range to long or mid

range, ready to unload your shots.

It's a really effective way of moving safely away from contact, with the

duck allowing the opponent's shots to travel harmlessly above your head.

This is because you have altered the position of your head in two ways a)

distance to the opponent by moving away and b) elevation or height of

your head in relation to the opponent by using the duck.





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The simplicity of this drill is what I really like. The simple solutions work

time after time. Just make sure that you do not bend at the waist, and everything

will be fine. Stay relaxed and enjoy!

Mobility Drill #3 – In and Out Slipping Inside

Video Timed-point

4 16:10

Getting a little more advanced now, I am going to introduce the process of

slipping into your drills routines. The associated resource box below includes

the link out to the article on the website, have a look at that now and you will be

ready to tackle this drill.

Slipping inside basically means that you will slip 'inside' any jab coming towards

you (assuming orthodox on orthodox.) Not only is it a fantastic defensive

action, as with other body movement defences it is an assertive action that puts

you in the ideal position to deliver your own shots. By slipping inside, you 'store

up' leverage and this leverage is absolutely perfect for delivering the mid-range

left hook (check out Foundation Drill #3.) Make sure that you understand the

principle of identifying the complementary aspects of each individual skill,

in this case we actually 'split' the inside slip into two parts, depending upon






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whether we are moving forward or moving backward. This 'splitting' of the

skill is a consistent message throughout our mobility drills.

TIP!

Be sure to understand that when you slip inside, you have a natural

vulnerability to an oncoming straight back hand (as orthodox versus

orthodox.) Everything holds a certain amount of risk, which is the nature of

the sport. The important thing is to know when you are taking the risk!

Check out Mobility Drill #5 for an interesting variation that reduced the

risk of swallowing that incoming straight back hand.

Mobility Drill #4 – In and Out Slipping Outside

Video Timed-point

4 19:20

If you have checked out the 'Final Word' section of the Foundation Drills, then

you will already have some understanding of the outside slip. I suggested that

during Foundation Drill #4 you exchange the lay back for the outside slip, and the

straight back hand for the long range right hook. This was all done from a static

position, that is your feet stayed still. In this drill you really need to focus on the

movement of the feet combined with the 'splitting' of the outside slip. Just



The Inside Slip

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/body-movement-slips/



Page 96

like with an army the ability to be mobile is of paramount importance, the same

is true in boxing. Keep it simple, clean and efficient.

Mobility Drill #5 – In and Out Rolling Inside

Video Timed-point

4 22:21

This drill is for all you guys and girls who want to be deliver KO power with

hooks and uppercuts. 'Rolling' with punches not only makes you an extremely

elusive target, it also allows you to use momentum in order to fire dynamite

hooks in this case the lead hand hook is the shot of choice (orthodox left hook,

southpaw right hook). The roll and movement in delivers you 'inside' the lead of

your opponent, and is a superb natural defence against a one-two. This

relates to the 'Tip' in Mobility Drill #3 where slipping inside leaves a vulnerability

to the incoming straight back hand. Execute the roll inside at speed, and your

head will not be there to take the shot. The practice of the drill will make the

move more instinctive.



The Outside Slip



The Roll Inside

Mid-Range Left Hook

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/body-movement-slips/

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/bob-and-weave-roll-with-em/

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/punching-mid-range-left-hook/



Page 97

TIP!

Remember the bits of the skills that we combine. Here, we 'split' the roll,

starting with a push off the front foot to start the roll, and then pushing off

the back foot to move forward AND complete the roll at the same time. On

the retreat push off the front foot to move backwards AND start the roll,

then complete the roll at the end of the move.

Mobility Drill #6 – In and Out Rolling Outside

Video Timed-point

4 25:36

Same principle as Mobility Drill #5, this time bringing in the big right hook.

Mobility Drill #7 – Diagonal Movement with Ducking

Video Timed-point

4 29:04



The Roll Outside

Mid-Range Right Hook


http://www.myboxingcoach.com/punching-mid-range-right-hook/



Page 98

Now here's an interesting one. Diagonal movement can be quite awkward, so

I'm not going to get us caught up in trying to explain it here. Check out the links

in the Associated Resource box for a full explanation. In fact, go do it now

before you even think about looking at this drill, then, be sure to check out the tip

box below so that I can point out the mistakes that I make in the drill video. We

all have weaknesses!

Mobility Drill #8 – Moving In Roll Out with a Sidestep

Video Timed-point

5 00:00

With this drill, I want you to take another step up in complexity, combining

three skills rather than our normal two. To my mind, the really slick bit about

this skill is the combination of the sidestep with the final part of the outside

roll. The first part of the drill, the move in with the beginning of the outside roll,

is excellent to move from the edge of range to long-range (or mid-range, the

TIP!

DON'T cross your legs, like I do as I'm moving diagonally forward to my

right (oh the shame!) It goes to show that mistakes can be made, and that

diagonal movement can be a challenge for very particular reasons. All is

explained in the Associated Resources articles.


Diagonal Movement Left

Diagonal Movement Right


http://www.myboxingcoach.com/footwork-boxing-diagonal/

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/boxing-footwork-diagonal-right/



Page 99

difference is minimal.) It's an efficient and safe way to move in, your head in

constant motion due to the movement of your feet and body. The final element of

the drill, the side step, takes you out of your opponent's 'strike zone' (check out

the report Southpaw Versus Orthodox Explained!) and places you in a very

dominant position to launch your own attack. Given the position of your

opponent, might a jab work nicely here?

Mobility Drill #9 – Moving In Roll Inside with a Sidestep

Video Timed-point

5 02:53

There are obvious similarities here with Mobility Drill #8, so there seems little

point in repeating the positives described there. There is however a key

difference, and this difference is the result of the mechanics of combining the

skills. In Mobility Drill #8 we combine the final phase of the outside roll with the

side step (to the right for an orthodox.) In this drill, you need to complete the roll

and then do the side step because you have already combined the final phase of

the roll inside when you pushed forward off the back leg. I know that this

sometimes gets a little complicated, but it is important that you understand

these little details. By the way, if your thinking of letting a shot go here, that

straight back hand might be worth a look.




The Roll Outside




Page 100

Mobility Drill #10 – Moving In and Out with the Pivot

Video Timed-point

5 06:17

This is really a simplified version of Foundation Drill #5. By now, this is self-

explanatory for you. It's interesting to note though as you look at Phase 3 –

Shadow Boxing and Phase 4 – The Heavy Bag you will see why I put so much

emphasis on the importance of the pivot. On more than one occasion during

shadow boxing and the heavy bag session, I use the pivot without being aware

that I am doing so. I only noticed when I watched the video back. This shows

that the movement is an integral and instinctive part of my style, and to be

honest the same is true for the vast majority of active boxers (not including over-

the-hill types like myself). Next time you watch a fight, check out how often a

fighter pivots, and the different circumstances in which they pivot. It's a real

'ring-scientist' skill.




The Roll Inside



Core Skill 8 – The Pivot




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Phase 3 – Shadow Boxing

Video Timed-point

5 12:00

Introduction

As long as boxing has existed, it is fair to assume that those partaking in the sport

have ‘shadow boxed.' In brief, shadow boxing is boxing without a physical

opponent present. Shadow boxing allows you to try out many of the skills of

boxing before using those skills on a heavy bag or indeed a live opponent.

Shadow boxing is generally undertaken towards the start of the session, after the

warm-up but before the ‘heavier impacts’ of the bag work. This said, most

boxers occupy any spare moments with a burst of shadow boxing.

Shadow boxing should absolutely NOT be confused with the 'competition-speed'

sections of the Foundation Drills within the Boxing Training Foundation. It is

very important in shadow boxing not to restrict yourself with repetitive

movement. Within the Boxing Training Foundation, I have continued the

elements of the Foundation Drills through the shadow boxing and heavy bag

phases to aid your learning. As you develop, you really do need to get

adventurous with your shadow boxing and vary your approach. I'll give you

some suggestions in a moment, but first, here are a few things to understand

about shadow boxing.

Some people consider shadow boxing to be part of a warm-up, not me.

Shadow boxing is a very important aspect of training in it's own

right.



Page 102

There are no lines on the floor (as with drills,) your emphasis should be

on movement.

Visualise an opponent and place a target. I mentioned that there is no

physical opponent present. Well, your job is to put that physical

opponent in there. Mirrors can help with this, as with a mirror you can

see what an opponent would see, but a mirror should not become an

absolute part of shadow boxing as this too might restrict movement.

Accelerate your shots onto a target, snapping back the head of the

‘opponent.' Don't allow the punches to go through the target before

eventually finding their way back to the guard position. This is a bad

habit. Think about it, when your fist hits a solid object it does not continue

to travel for 2 feet beyond that object. Your fist pretty much stops, and the

force is passed into the object. So let's train for that situation and let’s not

train for missing the target.

I've said this before and I'll say it again, work for the full round, even if

this involves only keeping your hands up and maintaining your stance.

Don't lose your form and keep your discipline!

In between rounds, breath in deeply through your nose, then out through

your mouth; don't pant like a dog. Focus on the next round.

So what about some options for adding some spice to shadow boxing? Have a

think about some of the following points:

To make improvements to your hand speed, why not grab a 1lb or 2lb

weight in each hand. Use these weights for a round, and then dispense

with them for the next round. You should feel a pretty instant

improvement in hand speed. Make this a regular part of your shadow

boxing.

‘Theme' your rounds. For example, in round 1, visualize an opponent

who is looking to put a lot of pressure on you, constantly attacking with

reckless abandon! Use lots of side steps, pivots and shots to build an



Page 103

effective 'fighting retreat.' In round 2, turn the tables and you chase down

your opponent, thinking about adding some of the elements of the

mobility drills (slips, rolls and ducks.)

Watch other boxers, both on TV (or the boxing fan's best friend

YouTube) and if you are at a gym the boxers there. Try to spot some of

the skills that they use. Try to spot the subtle bits; pivots, hand-defences

and footwork, and look to use some of those for a round. Basically, mimic

your favourite fighters.

OK, keeping that stuff in mind, let's check out the demo of the shadow boxing

within the Boxing Training Foundation.



Page 104

Shadow Boxing Demonstration

Video Timed-point

5 16:18

Round 1

Timed-Point: 16:21

Single jabs with movement. Trying to maintain a roughly equal distance

between the feet. At 16:40, I duck twice. This ducking was not an action that I

was aware I was doing, it's simply that an inherent element of my boxing style is

the desire to ensure that my head does not stay in the same place for too

long. Notice also that my right hand stays high as the jab is thrown, avoiding

leaving a gap in the defences.

Around the 17:08 second mark where I pivot. Again, this was not a conscious

action; pivoting is covered in Foundation Drill #5, and we are in the first minute

of round 1 where I am attempting to isolate the single jab with movement. There

are two other bits of information that you should glean from this observation:

The pivot is a very important and versatile skill

Repetition over time will result in reinforcement and the sub-conscious

execution of skills.

From 17:19 onwards, we begin the process of 'doubling up' the jab, both on the

attack and the retreat (Foundation Drill #2). What should stand out more about

this first round is the difference between shadow boxing and the Foundation and

Mobility Drills. Within the drills, we are methodical, precise and almost robotic.

In shadow boxing we can see that there is much more freedom, a willingness and



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desire to move freely and attempt to develop the rhythm that successful

boxing demands.

Round 2

Timed-point: 18:30

We can see right from the outset of round 2 that there is more of a threat. Why?

Because we are 'bringing forward the big guns' in the shape of the straight back

hand (incorporating elements of Foundation Drill #3). The double jab/back

hand is used regularly, and at 2:40 we see the one-two/one-two on the attack,

carried out with speed and aggression but in complete control because we are

ensuring that the feet are static when throwing the back hand but are moving

when throwing the jabs.

At 19:39 we see the first body attack, a straight back hand to the body

following a jab to the head. You'll note that as with Foundation Drill #4 the

straight back hand is thrown to the body in the same way as to the head, but

combining it with the duck. Avoid punching down towards the target with

straight shots as this means that your hands are away from the guard position

for a split second longer than they need to be.

At 19:51 we see the first lay back, providing a main method of putting

maximum pressure on the opponent by delivering sharp, powerful counter

punches. This is the first of many lay backs used during this part of the round. At

20:19 the mid-range left hook is used, in particular combined with the move in

to transfer from long range to mid-range. This is described in some detail in

Foundation Drill #3 so check that out again for more on this.

At the end of the round BREATHE DEEPLY!



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Round 3

Timed-point: 20:40

We open the round 20:50 by combining the pivot with jabs and hooks, as in

Foundation Drill #5. We pivot both in clockwise and counter-clockwise

directions, with the former feeling more 'fluid' to me, as I'm an orthodox. If you

are a southpaw, then it will feel more natural for you to pivot counter-clockwise.

For the first minute or so of the round, we take the 'centre of the ring', allowing

the opponent to move around us. You will see the left hook combine with the

pivot regularly throughout the round, and in general we can see that the punch

rate has risen; it is always a good thing to try and finish strongly.

We are also seeing the beginnings of 4 and 5 punch combinations,

interspersed with the lay back and short, explosive foot movements in and out.

Around 22:40, we see the pivot in both directions whilst still throwing shots;

maximum elusiveness combined with a high punch-rate, which is a sure-fire way

to boxing success

And there you have it. After those 3 rounds of shadow boxing you are now

primed and ready to wreak havoc on the heavy bag. Go glove up...



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Phase 4 – The Heavy Bag

Video Timed-point

5 22:51

Introduction

In the Equipment section, we talked about the heavy bag, the various types of

heavy bag and the benefits of using this key piece of equipment. Now, I want to

move this understanding forward and examine the technical and physical

aspects of using the bag and ways in which you can enhance your style,

strength, endurance and punching power.

As with Phase 3 - Shadow Boxing, we will use the Foundation Drills to give us the

broad outline of our bag session, layering each set of skills one on top of the

other. In the early stages of your development, this structured approach is

vital. However, this is not to say that this is the approach you should take for the

rest of your life, which would get a little boring. The advice in Phase 3 on how to

develop your shadow boxing can be used for the heavy bag also.

Before getting into the 3 rounds of bag work, let's cover some of the basics of

using the heavy bag:

Don't allow excessive swinging of the bag. The bag swinging a lot does

not mean that you are hitting it hard. What it does mean is that you have a

basic understanding of momentum and you are punching the bag as it

moves away, thus increasing the swing.



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In order to help develop your 'feel' for range and develop that vital

rhythm that we have talked about, try to time your foot movements to

coincide with the swinging of the bag. Your aim for the purposes of the

Boxing Training Foundation is to pretty much keep the bag at long range.

Don't push the bag. This is very different from stopping the bag with the

double arm block (as shown in round 3). If you get into the habit of

pushing the bag, it means that your arms can end up a long way from

the guard position leaving you badly exposed to incoming hooks.

Don't lean on the bag. If you lean against a bag (or even worse an

opponent), it means that you are not in control of your own body weight;

you are relying on something else to stop YOU losing YOUR balance.

This is never going to be a good thing.

Maintain your discipline, working through to the end of the round with

your guard intact, defending yourself at all times and providing a threat

both going forward and going backwards.

In between rounds, breathe deeply, take on some fluids and aim to

recover. Make sure that you are fully prepared for the next round or

indeed the next phase and remember the 1-minute rule.

OK, let's get on with the demonstration.



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Heavy Bag Demonstration

Video Timed-point

5 28:30

Round 1

Timed-point: 28:30

For the first minute of the round I'm using single jabs, but more importantly I'd

like you to notice how I am using the swing of the bag. You know how during

the introductory video of Phase 5 (Heavy Bag) I talked about using the swing of

the bag to develop your 'feel' for range? Well, that is very much in evidence when

throwing the single jabs.

The jabs themselves during the early part of the round are pretty average,

certainly in terms of speed. In fact, they could almost be defined as feints. The

jab, as well as delivering the benefits described in Core Skill #2, is an excellent

way of bringing the opponent "out of cover", drawing a lead and providing

openings for your own, punishing attacks. Slowing the jab down to become half

punch/half feint is a very effective way to do this. Interestingly, this is method

that was used by the great Roberto Duran throughout his career, and the

Associated Resource box at the end of this section includes a link to an analysis

article that demonstrates this.

In the second minute of the round, from about 29:27, I am able to 'open the

throttle' a little by popping in double jabs (Foundation Drill #2). Even with the

first double jab, you can see the significant difference in impact, with the

concussive ‘thwack’ of the 2nd jab in particular standing out. The double jab is

no less effective when thrown on the retreat.



Page 110

On a final word on round 1, it was interesting to note that I felt quite

constrained using only jabs. Now, I knew that I would feel this way, and I am

sure that you will experience the same sensation. But, and this is important, it

will do you good to be disciplined. In the short term, do try to restrict yourself in

this way for periods of a round or indeed a full round. Discipline and 'sticking

to a game plan' is important. Also, it feels really good then to move up through

the gears by throwing additional shots, just as we do in round 2.

Round 2

Timed-point: 30:38

Right from the outset of round 2 we have a very different approach, with a

hard one-two signalling a significantly more aggressive approach. At 30:53 we

see out first 'double attack'; a jab on the retreat quickly followed by one-two

delivered with real intent - this is drawn directly from Foundation Drill #3.

At 30:58 we bring in our first left hook after the bag swings into mid range after

the straight backhand has landed. This again is quite an important point to note -

we can move in to range, but we must always be prepared to deal with the

fact that the opponent can influence the process with their positioning. So,

when an opponent moves in, we can alter our range or throw an appropriately

ranged shot, in this case the mid-range left hook.

At 31:19, notice the subtle foot feint before firing a double jab and back hand.

The foot feint is important in this respect as the opponent could respond to this

and therefore not be ready for the assault that takes place a split second after

they were expecting it. This is key and is in fact very important as we try to

develop our counter-punching capability.

At 31:31, we use the double arm block (as described in the introductory video

to the heavy bag phase.) In this instance we use the block to advance into range



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behind the solid shield of the arms whilst maintaining full visibility of the

opponent. In terms of getting out, have a look at 32:17, ducking during the

move out having landed a one-two; hit and not be hit. Ducking in and out of

range in this way is simple and very effective. The other aspect of the duck is

demonstrated, that is combining it with the straight back hand in order to deliver

crunching body shots.

Round 3

Timed-point: 32:47

We start round 3 with a jab and hook, combined with the pivot. The hook and

pivot go together like strawberries and cream! At 33:02 we see the two skills

combined again with the jab making a contribution also. To use a cookery

analogy, these three skills are the highest quality ingredients for a 5-star meal!

At 33:07, the lay back is used to separate a couple of one-two's, making a 4-

punch combination, ensuring that the feet are static when the back hand goes

so that we maximize the power generated. OK, it's just 4 straight shots, but it's

simple, and simple works. At 33:13 we see the lay back separating the jab from

the straight back hand, again this is pulled directly from Foundation Drill #4 and

this is counter-punching with real bite.

At the end of the round BREATHE DEEPLY and get rid of those hand wraps as its

time for some jumping rope.


Double Arm Block

Old Man Hits a Heavy Bag!

Roberto Duran Boxing Style Analysis

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/btfDoubleArmBlock

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/heavy-bag-punching/

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/roberto-duran-boxing-manos-de-piedra/



Page 112

Phase 5 – Jumping Rope

Video Timed-point

6 00:00

Introduction

Caution: A word of warning here. If you suffer from joint problems or arthritis,

you need to consult your doctor/physician before taking on skipping. The joints

of the legs need to take some stresses because of the bouncing action, so make

sure that you don't exacerbate joint problems by undertaking unsuitable

exercise.

Boxers, very often, love to show off. It’s part of the make-up. It’s not about

humiliating someone or satisfying extrovert tendencies, it’s about being proud

of the amount of work and effort that goes into attaining the level of fitness

and skill required to perform as a fighter. Jumping rope, also called skipping,

is one of the activities in which boxers can truly ‘show off’, and some of the

quality of skipping that I’ve seen in gyms over the years is mind-boggling!

Now, let’s get something straight here. If you cannot currently skip, then you will

need to have some patience and self-discipline to learn it. But, once you have

learned how to skip, and you build skipping into your fitness regime, you reap

the rewards over a prolonged period of time.

Let's look at some of the benefits of building skipping into your fitness

regime:

Hands and feet co-ordination. The importance of co-ordinating

footwork with punching is critical to successful boxing. Skipping is a



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wonderful method of doing this. Timing, rhythm, balance…you name it,

skipping helps with it!

Aerobic fitness/Anaerobic fitness – cardiovascular dreamland!

Skipping is wonderfully versatile in terms of configuration of activity,

allowing low intensity work over a prolonged period (for endurance

development) to high intensity sprinting work to focus on recovery rates.

Excellent muscle tone benefits, particularly in the calves, thighs,

buttocks, chest and shoulders.

As you have probably noticed, being on the balls of your feet is very

important in boxing, not only for effective movement, but also for

generating the leverage needed for throwing real power shots. Skipping is

excellent training for ensuring that you develop that capability to

remain on the balls of your feet for the duration of a round.

Here are the steps that we take in the video:

Hold both handles of the rope in your right hand. Make counter-

clockwise circular movement with your right forearm and relax the wrist

to allow it to make a similar movement, only in larger circles. Continue

this until you feel comfortable and the rope is swinging in a consistent,

rhythmic motion.

Alternate the handles of the rope to your left hand and repeat the

action described in point 1.

When you are ready, put a handle in each hand and look to create the

same motions described in points 1 and 2, including this time the jump

over the rope.

Keep your knees bent and remain on the balls of your feet.

Remember from the Phase 1 – The Warm Up where we bounced, our feet

landed on the floor at the same time, but the body weight alternated

from one leg to the other. The same principle is applied here.



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Practice, practice, practice!

If you initially struggle with this approach, don't become disheartened; just

keep on practising and it will come. In the short term, feel free to undertake the

simple method that I describe in the video at 08:40, but do keep trying to master

our main approach.

TIP!

The options for both skipping technique and configuration are literally

limitless. During a training session, many boxers would drop the round-

based format for a continuous 10-minute session (or longer). If you choose

to go with the 10-minute format, ensure that the last 15 seconds of each

minute is devoted to a flat-out sprint. Use the subsequent 45 seconds of the

next minute to recover with controlled, deep breathing.



Page 115

Phase 6 – The Ton Up

Video Timed-point

6 09:02

Introduction

Caution: As with skipping, there are exercises within the ton up that put some

significant strain on the joints. Again, the legs take quite a hammering

particularly with exercises like pike jumps or burpees. Speak with your doctor if

you have joint problems or arthritis before you tackle Phase 6 of the Boxing

Training Foundation.

For those who have never heard of “The Ton Up”, be prepared to have your

views on strength training and cardiovascular performance improvement

changed forever. The Boxing Training Foundation course will include 10

exercises that form the boxer’s ton-up. These exercises, along with some others,

can form the basis of a full on strength training program. They are a true ‘all-

rounder’ and offer any number of benefits.

So, what is the 'Ton Up’? Well, the ton-up is a fixed load circuit consisting of

10 exercises, each exercise being repeated 10 times. The reference to 'fixed load'

here gives us the 10 exercises (100 in all.) Another type of circuit is the target

circuit, but more about that in a moment. The 10 exercises include callisthenic

exercise (movement), plyometric (muscle elasticity and explosiveness) and

resistance work. I'll often refer to this as 'groundwork' on the site and

elsewhere as the 'ton up' is not the only type of circuit we do, groundwork covers

all bases.



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The Ton Up is the final phase of 'guts and glory' hard work that we complete

in the Boxing Training Foundation (Phase 7 – The Warm Down is nice and easy!)

The reason that I like the ton up to be completed toward the end of the session is

that we arrive here with pretty much an empty tank having completed virtually

a full training session. It takes the utmost determination to drive on through the

ton up. So we are aiming to not only improve the body's core strength and

endurance (to build and retain punching power), but also the mental toughness

for which there can be no substitute.

The ton up is a strength-training program completed without using

weights. Many people over the years have posed the question “should boxers

use weights”? The theory is that excess in bulk of muscle will restrict the range of

movement and flexibility; this is a theory that I agree with. Too much muscle

mass is not great for a fighter. However, we need not necessarily use weights

with the aim of building muscle mass, there are other options particularly with

free-weights. So, my response to the question on whether boxers should use

weights would be “boxers need to undertake strength training which may or may

not include the use of weights. If weights are to be used, then particular methods of

using those weights should be applied.”

Enough about weights for now, let's get back to groundwork. Earlier I mentioned

a target circuit as an alternative to a fixed load circuit. So, what is a target

circuit? Well, during a target circuit we apply a time limit in which we aim to

complete as many repetitions of the exercise as possible; speed is of the

essence. In the tip box below there's a pointer for building a target circuit as an

alternative to the fixed load variety.

A final word before we get into the demonstration, and this is important. There

is a cycle in play when completing the ton up. Each exercise is focused upon a

general area of the body. The areas of the body that our exercises hit are the legs,



Page 117

the abdomen and the chest. This cycle of legs, abs and chest is repeated

throughout the ton up.

In the next section of Phase 6, there is some detail on each exercise and a timed-

point to scroll to within the video to find the corresponding demonstration.

Annex 12 contains a version of the ton up that you can print and have to hand

during your workout.

TIP!

For a variation to the fixed load circuit, why not develop your own target

circuit? Begin with a 3 x 2 minute session, with each round divided into 4 x

30 periods. That's each round consisting of 4 exercises, with each exercise

lasting 30 seconds. In round 1, use exercises that focus on legs and abs,

round 2 on abs and chest and round 3 on legs and chest. Remember, as

many as you can fit into 30 seconds.



Page 118

Demonstration

Video Timed-point

6 10:58

1. Burpees (Legs)

Timed-point: 10:58

From a standing position, jump as high as possible into the air. Land on the balls

of your feet and go straight down into a crouching position. From the crouch,

immediately power out your legs to full extension, before powering them back

at the same speed back to the crouching position and repeating the explosive

jump. Repeat 10 times. This is a plyometric exercise, the aim being to be on the

ground for as short a time as possible and staying in the air for as long as

possible.

2. Trunk Curls (abdomen)

Timed-point: 11:22

Lie on your back, flat on the floor. Bend and raise your legs so that your thighs

are at a right angle to the floor, and your calves are parallel to the ground. Place

your fingertips behind your ears, not 'gripping' your head. Roll the upper body,

raising your shoulder blades off the floor; this short movement isolates the abs

and increases the benefits of the exercise. Don't lift your entire back from the

floor as this places needless strain on the lumbar region. In other words, it's

potentially quite bad for your back. Return to your starting position and repeat

the exercise 10 times.

3. Press Ups (Chest)

Timed-point: 11:42



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Lie face down on the floor with the palms of your hands on the floor (about

shoulder width or a little more) and your fingers pointing forward. Your legs

should be straight and together or no more than hip width apart. Looking

straight ahead, use your arms to full extension to raise your body from the

ground before lowering again (without your body touching the ground.) Inhale

on the way down and exhale on the way up. Repeat the exercise 10 times.

4. Squat Jumps (Legs)

Timed-point: 12:00

Stand in a basic boxing stance. Crouch down then jump up as high as possible.

The jump needs to allow you to rotate your body so that you land in the

opposing stance to which you started in and then into a crouch. So, if you started

in an orthodox stance, make sure that you land in a southpaw stance. Repeat the

exercise 10 times, each time alternating the stance in the way described. Don't

allow your arms (including your hands) to touch your thighs or the floor...the

legs must work!

5. V Sit Ups (Abdomen)

Timed-point: 12:21

Lying on your back flat on the floor, raise your legs aiming to keep them as

straight as possible at an angle of 45o to the ground; maintain that position

throughout the 10 exercises. Roll the upper body, raising your shoulder blades

off the floor; this short movement isolates the abs and increases the benefits of

the exercise. As with trunk curls (exercise 2), don't lift your entire back from

the floor as this places needless strain on the lumbar region (again). Return to

your starting position and repeat the exercise 10 times. Remember also the

'elbows forward' and 'elbows sideways' variations as described in exercise 2.

6. Heart Press Ups (Chest…with a hint of triceps!)



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Timed-point: 12:41

From a kneeling position, lean forward and place the palms of your hands close

together underneath your chest. Aim to form a 'heart' shape with the tip if your

index fingers touching and the tips of your thumbs also. Come to starting

position of full arm extension, straighten your legs and have your feet apart

(the wider apart your legs, the easier the exercise.) Lower your upper body,

inhaling a continuous deep breath as you go. When at the lowest point without

touching the ground, push back up with your arms to full extension, exhaling

as you go. Aim to keep your back straight, and repeat the exercise 10 times.

7. Pike Jumps (Legs)

Timed-point: 13:01

From a standing position, start gently bouncing on the spot. When you are

ready to start, jump as high as you can into the air, throwing your legs out in

front of you, aiming to touch your toes with your fingertips before dropping to

land safely on the balls of your feet. Repeat 10 times. Note that on the video I

perform 20 exercises; 10 from a front view and 10 from the profile view. This is

purely for illustration, for The Foundation just go with 10.

8. Scissor Leg Raises (Abdomen)

Timed-point: 13:26

TIP!

The ultimate aim is to touch your feet with your fingertips. In order to

achieve this you really do need to fully commit to throwing out your legs

beyond what you may be normally comfortable with! So, take it slowly,

building up to gradually to the full exercise.



Page 121

Sit on the floor, arms extended behind you to support your upper body.

Legs straight and together, toes pointed away from you. Raise your legs to a

height of about 8 inches keeping them straight and together. Open the legs as

wide as possible then bring them back towards each other and allow the right

leg to pass over the left leg. Bring the legs back to full separation (as wide as

possible) and then perform the same action this time allowing the left leg to

pass over the right leg. This is one full repetition which you should repeat 10

times.

9. Snake Press Ups (Chest...with more than a hint of shoulders!)

Timed-point: 13:49

Starting on all fours, with your feet and hands in contact with the floor. Your

feet should be more than shoulder width apart, likewise the palms of your

hands. Your backside should be raised as the highest point of your body. Bend

your arms and push forward from your legs to move your face towards the floor.

Aim to 'graze' your nose along the floor, following through with your

shoulders and lowering your buttocks to complete a snake-like roll of the body,

through the parted arms and back again to the starting position. Repeat 10 times.

10. Star Jumps (Legs)

Timed-point: 14:27

From a standing position, crouch down then perform an explosive jump as high

as possible into the air. During the jump, extend and spread both your arms and

legs to form a 'star' at the top of the jump, before retracting the limbs to land in

the starting crouch position. Repeat 10 times.

And that is it for Phase 6 and the ton up. We can now head for our 7th and final

phase, The Warm Down.



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Phase 7 – The Warm Down

No timed-point for the introduction of the warm down. I decided not to do an

introduction video because quiet reflection is an important part of a warm

down, particularly if you've had a 'bad day at the office.' You'll find all the

background you need here without the accompaniment of my droning voice. The

timed-point is where it should be, on the demonstration section.

Introduction

Do not, whatever you do, underestimate the benefits of Phase 7 of the Boxing

Training Foundation, the warm down. In simple terms, the warm down is a set of

static stretching exercises working down from the top of your body through

the various muscle groups, to finish at the bottom of your body. But why do I

need a warm down I hear you ask? Well, here are some key reasons to ensure

that you do not overlook the warm down:

1. After a tough training session, it is important that the rate at which

your body returns to a natural operating state is a steady rate. This is

particularly important when you work out in a cooler environment, and is

a key reason why on the video you see that I add a layer of clothing in the

form of the tracksuit top.

2. The warm down gives you some 'down time' to reflect on the hard

work that you've done during the session. The 'feel good' hormones

are rushing around your body and it is important to take some time to

really enjoy them.

3. The warm down lets you massively improve the flexibility of your

body. Just as in Phase 6 we discussed the importance of developing core

strength and muscle endurance in order to develop and maintain



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punching power, likewise flexibility is a key aspect of the 'punch

power' formula. Flexibility (also described as suppleness) increases your

range of movement throughout your entire body. Increased range of

movement equals increased leverage. Increased leverage = increased

punching power potential. Remember this when patiently working

though your warm down!

4. Finally, but no less importantly, if you are flexible then you are much less

likely to pick up the kind of injuries that really get in the way of good

fitness. If you tear a muscle, depending upon the location and severity of

the tear you are looking at several weeks of inactivity. Lengthy spells of

inactivity and fitness are not two phrases that go hand in hand.

What I am going to do for the written accompaniment of the video is provide the

scientific names of the muscles that we are working. This does not mean that

you need to memorize those names (heaven knows I couldn't), but it does allow

you to undertake some further research if you are that way inclined. Better to

know the names of the muscles and not need to know than the other way

around; knowledge is power.

Some simple rules before we get into the demonstration:

If you are in a cooler environment, put on an extra layer of clothing.

Breathe slowly and steadily throughout the activity.

Do not over-stretch, go only to the point of tension then hold it there. As

time progresses you will notice improvements in when the point of

tension is hit.

Keep your movements smooth. Jerky movements are absolutely not

acceptable. This is intended to be a mellow, relaxed part of the session,

not a mission to damage the muscles that you have worked so hard to

develop.



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Have a drink to hand. Use the warm down to aid in the process of re-

hydrating your body after the 'toughing it out' of your session.

Check out Annex 13 for a complete list of the body areas that we stretch during

the completion of the warm down.


Punching Power – The 5 Building Blocks

http://www.myboxingcoach.com/punching-power-improve/



Page 125

Demonstration

Video Timed-point

6 14:47

Here's the complete list of the 14 static stretches that form our warm down. I

hope that you enjoy them and find them useful!

1. Body Area: Neck (Sides)

Timed-point: 14:51

Muscles: Scalene muscles (anterior and middle), sternocleidomastoid,

omohyoid, levator scapulae

From the standing position with your feet no more than shoulder width apart

and your back straight, place the palm and fingers of the right hand on the left

side of your head (hand coming over the top of your head.) Gently pull your head

towards your right side. To intensify the stretch a little, drop your left shoulder

at the same time. When you feel the stretch, hold for 8 to 10 seconds then repeat

for the other side.

2. Body Area: Shoulders/Neck

Timed-point: 15:26

Muscles: Deltoids (posterior and middle), trapezius, levator scapulae,

sternocleidomastoid, splenius capitis.


and your back straight, place your right arm behind your back at a 45o angle.



Page 126

With your left hand, grasp your arm at the wrist and gently pull down and to the

left. To intensify the stretch a little, drop your right shoulder slightly as the

pulling action is taking place. When you feel the stretch, hold for 8 to 10 seconds

then repeat for the left arm.

3. Body Area: Chest/Shoulders/Arms

Timed-point: 16:07

Muscles: Pectoralis major, external intercostals, anterior deltoid, biceps

brachii, brachialis, brachioradialis.


and your back straight, place your arms behind your back (holding them

straight) and grasp one hand in the other. Gently push the hands back and raise

your arms, at the same time pushing out your chest and pulling back your chin.

When you feel the stretch, hold for 8 to 10 seconds.

4. Body Area: Shoulders

Timed-point: 16:34

Muscles: Posterior deltoids, infraspinatus, teres minor.


and your back straight, place your right arm across your chest. Place your left

wrist on the elbow of the right arm and and use it to gently pull your right arm

toward you. When you feel the stretch, hold for 8 to 10 seconds then repeat for

the left arm.



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5. Body Area: Triceps and Lats

Timed-point: 17:09

Muscles: Triceps brachii, teres major, latissimus dorsi.


and your back straight, lift your right arm so that the upper arm points directly

upwards at the side of your head. Allow the right forearm to either point to the

left forming an 'L' shape with the arm, or to drop behind your head forming an

upside down 'V' shape with the arm. Use the palm of the left arm to gently pull

the elbow of the right arm to the left. When you feel the stretch, hold for 8 to 10

seconds then repeat for the other arm.

6. Body Area: Forearms (Flexor Muscles)

Timed-point: 17:47

Muscles: Flexor carpi radialis, palmaris longus, supinator, flexor carpi

ulnaris.

Note: If you place your arm out directly in front of you and palm down, the flexor

muscles are those located on the bottom of your forearm. From the standing

position with your feet no more than shoulder width apart and your back

straight, put your right arm straight out in front at chest level with your hand at a

right angle to your forearm and your palm facing away from you. Place your left

hand into the palm of your right hand and use it to gently pull your right hand

toward you. When you feel the stretch, hold for 8 to 10 seconds then relax.

Repeat for the other arm.



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7. Body Area: Forearm (Extensor Muscles)

Timed-point: 18:22

Muscles: Extensor carpi radialis lingus, extensor digitorum, extensor carpi

radialis brevis, extensor digiti minimi, extensor carpi ulnaris.

Note: If you place your arm out directly in front of you and palm down, the

extensor muscles are those located on the top of your forearm. From the

standing position with your feet no more than shoulder width apart and your

back straight, put your right arm straight out in front of you at chest height with

your hand at a right angle to your forearm and your palm facing toward you.

Place the palm of your left hand onto the back of your right hand and use it to

gently pull your right hand towards you. When you feel the stretch, hold for 8 to

10 seconds then relax. Repeat for the other arm.

8. Body Area: Chest

Timed-point: 18:57

Muscles: Pectoralis major.


and your back straight, stand aside a solid object such as a wall. Put your left arm

out to your side at shoulder height and fixed against the wall. Rotate your upper

body slowly in a clockwise direction ensuring that your left hand remains fixed

against the wall. Rotate enough to feel the stretch across your chest, then hold

for 8 to 10 seconds. Repeat for the right side.



Page 129

9. Body Area: Torso

Timed-Point: 19:42

Muscles: External Obliques

Warning: If you suffer with lumbar problems (you have a bad back), it would be

wise to avoid this exercise. Also, if you find the first part of the exercise too

difficult, simply start from the prone position.

Stand with you feet no more than shoulder width apart and your back straight.

Bend over and allow the palms of your hands to reach the floor, gradually

allowing your body weight to transfer to your hands. Slowly "walk" forward on

your hands to the point where your legs and pelvis are in full contact with the

floor. Straighten your arms and tilt your head back slightly, gently arching your

back - be careful not to over-stretch. At the point of feeling your stretch, hold for

8 to 10 seconds, then make your way back to the starting position.

10. Body Area: Buttocks

Timed-Point: 20:16

Muscles: Gluteus Maximus

Sit upright on the floor with your legs straight and your toes pointing away from

you. Your hands can be placed on the floor in order to support your upper body.

Lift your right leg over your left leg and place your right foot flat on the floor on

the left side of your left knee. Place your left elbow on the right side of your

(bent) right knee and gently use the elbow to push to the left until you feel a

stretch in the right buttock. Hold for 8 to 10 seconds and repeat for the other

side.



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11. Body Area: Thighs (front)

Timed-Point: 21:07

Muscles: Quadriceps, tensor fasciae latae

A solid object such as a wall may be used to provide support during this stretch.

From a standing position with your legs no more than shoulder width apart,

bend your right leg and grasp the top of your right foot with your right hand.

Gently pull your foot into your buttocks until you feel the stretch on the front of

your right thigh, then hold for 8 to 10 seconds. Repeat for the left leg.

12. Body Area: Thighs (inner)

Timed-Point: 21:50

Muscles: Adductor longus, adductor longus, pectineus, gracilis.

From a standing position, spread each leg to an angle of about 45o to the ground.

Keep the soles of your feet flat on the floor at all times. Slowly and gently bend

your left leg, shifting your body weight to the left side. Continue this until you

feel the stretch in your inner thigh, then hold for 8 to 10 seconds. Repeat for the

left leg.

13. Body Area: Thighs (back)

Timed-Point: 22:30

Muscles: Biceps femoris, semitendinosus, semimembranosis



Page 131

From a standing position with your legs no more than shoulder width apart,

cross the right leg over the left leg. Both feet should be alongside each other.

Bend over aiming to touch your toes with your fingers. When you feel the stretch

at that back of your right thigh and knee, hold for 8 to 10 seconds then relax.

Repeat for the other leg.

14. Body Area: Calves

Timed-Point: 23:11

Muscles: Gastrocnemius, soleus, peroneus longus, peronius brevis

From a standing position with your legs no more than shoulder width apart and

your back straight and your feet flat on the floor, take a step forward with your

right leg. Both feet should be pointing ahead and both should be flat. Gently allow

your body weight to move forward, bending your front leg and keeping the feet

flat. Go to the point where you feel the stretch in your left calf and hold for 8 to

10 seconds. Repeat for the other leg.



Page 132

The Way Forward

Video Timed-point

6 23:55

Well done! I know that you've been exposed to lots of information with the

Boxing Training Foundation, but you should not think that this is all there is

to know...it isn't! One of my principles in creating the Foundation was that I did

not want to make over-inflated claims about this being the ultimate reference of

all you need to know about boxing. I don't believe that it's possible to

incorporate all there is to know about boxing into a single product or indeed a

range of products, it's a sport where there is always something else to learn

and understand. In fact, I'll go a step further here. The Boxing Training

Foundation is your road map to future learning, and boy is there a lot to learn.

So, the fact that you have built your training sessions around your lifestyle is

something to be very proud of, but you must not see that as the end game. There

never will be an end game. Use it as a launch pad to continued learning and

improvement, getting fitter, faster and stronger and developing that power to

weight ratio in line with your technical and physical development. Ensure

that you introduce variations into each phase of the Foundation, using the tips

located throughout the document to keep a varied and interesting training

regime. Some examples of how you can vary your approach:

As your fitness improves, consider increasing the number of rounds

completed or the duration of the rounds. During Phase 4 – Heavy Bag,

don't forget the tips on mimicking aspects of the style of your favourite

fighters.



Page 133

When undertaking your skipping (Phase 5), why not switch the 3 x 2

minutes for a 10-minute split? A 10-minute split is where you skip for 10

minutes, with the last 15 seconds of each minute being a flat-out

sprint, followed by 10 reps of an exercise of your choosing from the ton-

up (Phase 6). For the remainder of the minute before your next sprint

focus on recovery by breathing deeply, in through the nose and out

through the mouth.

For a speed-focused session (and only when you've reached a

reasonable level of fitness) drop your boxing drills and substitute the 3x2

minute framework for one of 6x1 minute rounds with 15 second rest

intervals. Aim for maximum speed and maximum number of shots. In the

15-second interval breathe deeply. This is a session that will improve

your anaerobic fitness, that is the body using it's reserves of energy

rather than a steady oxygen supply; all fighters need great anaerobic

fitness.)

Really, there are years worth of information here and there is real potential for

boxing training to play an important part of your life. Keep checking out the

site for more relevant videos, articles and products to improve further

your knowledge and options. And as importantly as anything, be sure to email

me with any questions, requests or observations about the Boxing Training

Foundation at [email protected].. I will do my absolute best to

respond personally and will absolutely include your input as the site develops.

Thank you and good luck!

mailto:[email protected]


Annex 1 – The Gym Session

The Warm Up

Boxing Drills

Shadow Boxing

Heavy Bag

Skipping

The Ton Up

The Warm Down

THE GYM SESSION


Annex 2 – The Warm Up

Bouncing on the spot

Leg Shuffles and Crosses

Heel Flicks

Hip twists

Alternating Windmills

Star Jumps

Spotty Dog

Chest Jumps

Alternated Jumps

Running on the Spot Punching (10 sprint)

10 Burpees


10 Crunches


10 Pike Jumps


THE WARM UP


Annex 3 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Stance

Do:

Stay on the balls of your feet

Feet = more than shoulder width

Body weight central/on back leg

Front foot = 450 angle

Don't:

Go 'square on'

Let your hands drop/your chin lift

Let your elbows lift

Allow your back foot to go directly

behind your front foot.

THE BOXING STANCE


Annex 4 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Jab

Do:

Rotate your body

Accelerate the shot

Take the same line out and back

Turn your fist on impact

Don't:

'Telegraph' the punch

Drop your back hand

Let back hand elbow to 'flare'

Throw your weight forward

THE JAB


Annex 5 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Straight Back Hand

Do:

Start the shot at the back foot

Allow the front leg to bend

Turn your fist on impact

Maximize rotation of your body

Don't:

“Spin” your back foot

Lean forward

Drop your lead hand

Try to hit too hard!

THE STRAIGHT BACK HAND


Annex 6 – Do’s and Don’ts of Moving In and Out

Do:

Back foot push = forward

Front foot push = backward

Movements = short and sharp

Distance between feet = same

Don't:

Go flat-footed

“Step and drag”

“Heal-and-toe” going forward

Lose your baseline

MOVING IN AND OUT


Annex 7 – Do’s and Don’ts of Sidestepping

Do:

Left foot push = go right

Right foot push = go left

Movements = short/sharp

Maintain your stance

Don't:

Step and drag

Cross over your legs

Go flat-footed

Lose your baseline

SIDESTEPPING



Annex 8 – Do’s and Don’ts of Ducking

Do:

Bend your knees

Keep your back straight

Perform it regularly!

Combine with straight

punches

Don't:

Bend at your waist

Duck too low

DUCKING


Annex 9 – Do’s and Don’ts of the Lay Back

Do:

Bend your back leg

Keep your back straight

Be economical

Fire a shot after the lay back!

Don't:

Bend at the waist

Drop the lead hand

THE LAY BACK


Annex 10 – Do’s and Don’ts of Pivoting

Do:

Spin on the front foot

Right leg push = pivot left

Left foot push = pivot right

Use the lead hand hook!

Don't:

Lean forward!

THE PIVOT


Annex 11 – The Foundation Drills

FD#1 – Jab with Movement

FD#2 – Multiple Jabs with Movement

FD#3 – Jab and Straight Back Hand

FD#4 – Add the Duck and Lay Back

FD#5 – Add the Pivot

FOUNDATION DRILLS


Annex 12 – The Ton Up

Burpees 10

Trunk Curls 10

Press Ups 10

Squat Jumps 10

V Sit Ups 10

Heart Press Ups 10

Pike Jumps 10

Scissor Leg Raises 10

Snake Press Ups 10

Start Jumps 10

THE TON UP


Annex 13 – The Warm Down

Neck (side pulls)

Shoulders/Neck (arm pull behind)

Chest/Shoulders (arms behind)

Shoulders (arm across chest)

Triceps (elbow up behind head)

Forearm (arm front palm out)

Forearm (arm front palm in)

Chest (rotate against support)

Torso (face down arch back)

Buttocks (sat down legs crossed)

Front thighs (pull on foot behind)

Inner thighs (legs apart feet flat)

Back thighs (touch toes cross legs)

Calves (feet flat step forward)

THE WARM DOWN


Annex 14 – Video Contents

Title Video Timed-point

Boxing Training Foundation – A Coaching Experience! 1 00:00

Boxing Training Foundation – The Objectives 1 04:57

Boxing Training Foundation – How It Works 1 13:55

Boxing Training Foundation – The Structure and Timetable 1 17:25

What Equipment You Need 1 24:29

The Golden Rules 1 33:51

Phase 1 – The Warm Up Introduction 2 00:00

Phase 1 - The Warm Up Routine 2 02:41

Phase 2 – Boxing Drills Introduction 2 10:52

Core Skill #1 - The Boxing Stance 2 16:38

Core Skill #2 - The Jab 2 21:36

Core Skill #3 - The Straight Back Hand 2 26:58

Core Skill #4 - Moving In and Out 2 31:42

Core Skill #5 - Moving Side to Side 2 36:05

Core Skill #6 – Ducking 2 39:55

Core Skill #7 - The Lay Back 3 00:00

Core Skill #8 - The Pivot 3 02:33

Foundation Drill #1 – Single Jab with Movement 3 06:06

Foundation Drill #2 – Multiple Jabs with Movement 3 13:33

Foundation Drill #3 – Jab/Straight Back Hand with Movement 3 19:20

Foundation Drill #4 – Incorporating the Duck and Lay Back 3 27:11

Foundation Drill #5 – Incorporating the Pivot 4 00:00

Mobility Drill #1 – Movement In and Out 4 08:31

Mobility Drill #2 – In and Out Combined With Ducking 4 12:49

Mobility Drill #3 – In and Out Slipping Inside 4 16:10

Mobility Drill #4 – In and Out Slipping Outside 4 19:20

Mobility Drill #5 – In and Out Rolling Inside 4 22:21

Mobility Drill #6 – In and Out Rolling Outside 4 25:36

Mobility Drill #7 – Diagonal Movement Combined/Ducking 4 29:04

Mobility Drill #8 – Moving In Roll Outside with a Side Step 5 00:00

Mobility Drill #9 – Moving In Roll Inside with a Side Step 5 02:53

Mobility Drill #10 – Moving In and Out with Pivots 5 06:17

Phase 3 – Shadow Boxing Introduction 5 12:00

Phase 3 - Shadow Boxing Demonstration 5 16:18

Phase 4 – The Heavy Bag Introduction 5 22:51

Phase 4 - Heavy Bag Demonstration 5 28:30

Phase 5 – Jumping Rope 6 00:00

Phase 6 – The Ton Up Introduction 6 09:02

Phase 6 – Ton Up Demonstration 6 10:58

Phase 7 – The Warm Down 6 14:47

The Way Forward 6 23:55

VIDEO CONTENTS

Documents

Boxing Training Foundation