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These late 15th-century noblewomen wear gowns of English wool with contrasting lining, except for the lady holding the chalice with a purple silk gown and a bodice who was exempt from a fine due to her rank. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.
The aristocratic English bride wears an ermine and red silk cape over her brocade dress and a small crown over a reticulated headdress while her groom wears a blue silk and ermine cloak over brocade. Another royal lady with a red silk gown and a cloak of gold cloth meets a gentleman wearing a blue figured tunic, red jeweled hat, and a hunting horn. None of these gentlefolk were concerned about being fined for their apparel. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.
British Clothing: Protectionism, Hierarchy, and Colonization
In medieval England, as in Italy, regulations
regarding how woolen cloth was cut and
trimmed were issued. English sumptuary laws
applicable to the King’s subjects throughout
the realm primarily regulated food and clothing. Fines
incurred for wearing offending garments were paid to
the Crown. These laws had a different purpose than
those issued by the Italian city-states. In addition too
enforcing social hierarchy, the English authorities were
trying to encourage local cloth weaving by prohibiting
the importation and use of cloth manufactured in other
countries. During the reign of Edward III (1330-1377),
merchants were prohibited from selling cloth made
in another country. The King’s authorities seized
foreign-manufactured cloth from offending
merchants.
Above:These Scottish highlanders wear clothes they made locally. The dairy maids all wear the banarch of striped or square-patterned wool as a multi-function coverall, but not always shoes, while the huntsman on his pony wears trouse, close-fitting leggings similar to hose made of square-patterned wool with a matching piece over his shoulder. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.
The Parliament convened during
the reign of Edward IV 1463-1464
issued a number of restrictive
regulations defining what types of
cloth could be worn, by which members of society,
and how said cloth could be cut. For instance,
any knight below the rank of lord (or his wife)
wearing cloth of gold would have to pay a fine of
£ 20. Only individuals with a substantial income
could afford this material since it sold for 80
shillings a yard during the years from 1401 to
1582. Any person below the rank of lord would
have to pay a fine of £ 10 if they wore purple
silk. Enforcement of these statues was carried
out by the sheriffs of every shire.
Although the citizens of England
were liable for punitive fines for
wearing the wrong clothes, after
the English conquered Scotland a
law was issued in 1746 that completely banned
the wearing of the native dress of the northern
highland regions—the plaid wool great kilt. This
was a six-yard length of wool cloth woven in
striped and square patterns of black and lighter-
colored yarn which was wrapped around the
waist with the end thrown over one shoulder
and worn over a shirt. This multi-purpose
attire of the men in the Scottish hills served as
clothing, cloak, and sleeping bag when necessary.
Following the uprisings of the Scottish Clans in
1745 in support of their claimant to the throne,
Prince Charlie, and their defeat at the Battle
In the 18th century the Scottish great kilt was worn with a coat cut in the style of those worn by gentlemen in England or the European continent. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.
Scots in pagan and medieval times wore solid color and square-patterned lengths of wool that could be wrapped only around the waist, or around the waist and over the shoulder, with a shirt, tunic, jacket or chain mail shirt, demonstrating the versatility of the great kilt. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.
of Culloden on April 16, 1746, King George II
issued the Disarming Act which included a ban
on the wearing of the kilt and the trouse effective
August 1, 1746. Except for those serving in the
King’s army, Scottish men found wearing the
offending garments were subject to six months
in prison for a first offense and deportation to
any of “His Majesty’s plantations beyond the
seas, there to remain for the period of seven
years.” – This was effectively a death sentence
because those who were sent as forced labor to
the any of the colonies did not usually survive.
Members of the English nobility in the 14th century wear a close-fitting thigh length tunic while the lady wears a cotehardie, a garment closely fitted to the body usually buttoned all the way down the front that was worn by both sexes. The gentlemen’s version is a close-fitting thigh length tunic with a belt, while the lady wears one that hugs her figure probably made of patterned silk. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.
WHAT NOT TO WEAR: rites, ranks and regulations