BULGARIAWITHBIRDQUEST,MAY2010

byTimWilcox

AftertheanxiouswaitwithskiesemptiedbythevolcanoandpotentiallyfurtherbytheBAstriketheBirdquestgroupof13miraculouslygotourplanefromHeathrowtoSofiaonTuesday18Mayarrivingontimeforanaction-packedandabsolutelysuperb10daysbirdingaroundBulgariawithoursuperbandhumorousguides,DerekScottfromBirdquestandexpertlocalguide,LyubomirProfirov(Lyubo)andourgenialcoachdriver,Evghani.WeimmediatelyheadedstraightoutfromtheairportpastPlovdivandAsenovgradondowntotheout-of-seasonskiresortofPomporovaintheRhodopeMountainssoonleavingbehindthelasttraceofdecentroad!Thefirstbirdingwasatamotorwaypitstopforthealwaysexcellentcoffee.Iaddedmyfirstof60liferswithasingingBlack-HeadedBuntinginscrubbelowthepetrolstationandaRed-RumpedSwallow.ApartyofBee-Eatersflewlowoverinthestrongwind.CornBuntingssangtooandthiswastobeaconstantandmuchwelcomesoundtracktoourtripalongwiththeclamourofGreatReedWarblers,NightingaleswhichkeptupallnightintheArdaRivervalleyandabundantCuckoos.

Black-HeadedBuntingcourtesyRussTofts

Bee-EatercourtesyandRed-backedShrikecourtesyofRussTofts

SpottedNutcrackerthefirst‘lifer-before-breakfast’

Thefirstfullday’sbirdingstartedwithawalkinthespruceforestjustbehindthehotelandwewerenotdisappointedwithCrestedTit,Firecrest,Red-BackedShrikeandoneofmytargetbirdsforthetrip,SpottedNutcrackerperchedupsuperblyinatallsprucerightaboveourparkedcoachandallowingthishastyhand-helddigiscoperecord.AfterthatbrilliantstarttherewashardlyadaywhenIdidn’taddalifertothelistbeforetheinevitablebreakfastfareofcoldmeats,boiledeggandcheeseandloadsofcoffee.Theonlyhoped-forbirdwhichgotawaythatmorningwasaBlackWoodpeckersomewherenearbybutitfailedtorespondtotaping(Derek’smachine!)andwedidn’tgetanothertillthelastdaywhichalsofailedtoshow.Alwaysgoodtoleaveamajortargetbirdinstoreastheobjectofafuturetrip.AbonuswashadintheshapeofasuperbalpestriseasternracemaleRingOuzelrightatthesideoftheroadonourwaydownfromPomporovo.OurmainexpeditionofthedayfollowedtotheTrigradGorge.AspectacularlydeepgorgeintheRhodopeMountainswherethereisadeepcavewhichlegendhasitiswhereOrpheusenteredtheUnderworld.ThewholeareafromheretotheThracianplainswastheheartlandofthecultofOrpheus.Alongwaitatthesideoftheroadensued,wherewewereadvisednottouseourscopesincaseoneofustrippedoveralegandtumbledseveralhundredfeetintothegorge!AswemovedofftolookfurtherupIwaslaggingbehindastherestenteredtheroadtunnelandsuddenlytherewasaflashofgreyandscarletfrombehindmeandoneflewstraightaheadacrossthegorge.Iwasabletotrackitasitmovedquicklyalongtherockfaceflyingandresettlingbutcouldn’tgetanyoneelseontoit.AfewothershadabriefglimpselaterbutthatwasitbeforelunchatafishrestaurantfurtherupthegorgewhereIaddedanotherliferintheshapeofasplendidmaleSerin.ThenitwasbackdowntostakeouttheWallcreepernestandhopeforthebest.JustasDerekthoughtwereallyhadtomoveononeofuspoppedawayforapeeandthereitwasabovehimontherockface.Amazinglyitmovedrounduntilitwasrightaboveusandweenjoyedsplendidviewsofthemale.AbirdIhavewantedtoseesinceIlookedthroughmydad’sPetersonfieldguideasasmallboyandthemaintargetofthetripformanyincludingme.Hardlysurprisinglyitwasvotedbirdofthetrip.

TrigradGorgeandmaleWallcreepertherecourtesyofRussTofts

WethendroveontotheEasternRhodopestoournexthotelontheArdaRiverseeingasuperbRockBuntingfromabridgealongthewaytogetherwithgreatviewsofRed-RumpedSwallowsfromaboveastheyflewupanddowntheriverwithCragandHouseMartins.AnotherstopwastoviewoneofthemanyWhiteStorknestswhichcharacterisedthevillagesoftheRhodopeandalsogaveusgreatviewsofSpanishSparrowswhichcommonlynestinsidestork’snests.

WhiteStork’snestsupportingacolonyofSpanishSparrowsandTheArdaRiver

AmorningwalkfromourhotelproducedaveryobligingNightingalerespondingtoDerek’smachine,thefirstIhaveseensinceIwasakidgoingtoMinsmere.ThebestviewsofHoopoesweretobehadheretogetherwithanobligingHawfinchinalowtreeandanotherlifer-before-breakfast–SombreTit.

Red-RumpedSwallowsnearthehotelontheArdaandStudenKladenetsDam

ThefirstportofcallthatdaywasStudenKladenetsDamwhereanothercolourfulEuropeanspecialwasadded–BlueRockThrushalongwithverycloseviewsofapairofEasternBlack-earedWheatearsthemaleexhibitingalmostallblackandwhite,IsabellineWheatearsandthefirstofseveralLesserGreyShrikes.ThemaintargetofthedaywastobethefamousvulturefeedingstationofMadzharovo.Weenjoyed62GriffonVulturesfeedingonthecarcasseslaidoutdailyforthemalongwith4EgyptianVultures(thesymboloftheBulgarianequivalentoftheRSPB)andagiantBlackVulturewithawingtagbearingthenumber64whichhadcomeoverfromnorthernGreecewheretheybreed.BlackKites,3foxesandRavensjoinedthebanquet.

Above:EasternFestooncourtesyJeanThomas

OurpicniclunchgaveusexcellentviewsofSardinian,EasternOrpheanandBarredWarblers,aWoodchatShriketogetherwithlotsofEasternFestoonbutterfliesandBlack-veinedWhitesandawildTortoise.IntheKrumovitsaValleylateronwewaitedaverylongtimeforwhatturnedouttobeanalltobriefviewofanotherofthespecialitybirdsofthetrip,LevantSparrowhawkalongwithShort-toedEagle,amuchappreciatedRollerandseveralGoldenOrioleswhichwereindailysupplythereon.SomewherenearStudenKladenetsvillagewasour4thshrikeofthedayabeautifulmaleMaskedShrike.ThePallidSwiftcolonywasnolongerinthevillageduetobuildingworkhowever.Theveryendofthedayproducedoneofmanybonusbirdsforus–aCommonQuailwhichshotoutacrosstheroadinresponsetotape.

BlackVultureno.64fromNorthernGreece(left)andGriffonandEgyptianVultures(right)

ThefollowingdayLyuboguidedustoaspotinthemountainswherehehadfoundaRockThrush’snestanditdulyobligedarounditsstrangecone-shapednestontherockface.HeretoomosthadanexcellentviewofSubalpineWarbler,averycloseSyrianWoodpecker(thefirstofseveralonthetrip)andRussfoundmeanOrtolanBuntingaboutaquarterofamileawayinthescope!AnothertargetliferformewhichfortunatelyIwastoseemoresuccessfullylateron.WealsohadatourfeetthesightofanextraordinarytypeoflacewingcalledNemopteracoa.

Above:Nempoteracoa

AstopintheMadzharovoCraterproducedmoreBlueRockThrush,anobligingChukar,BootedEagle,Short-toedEagle,soaringEgyptianandGriffonVultures,twojuvenilePeregrinesandapairofLong-leggedBuzzards.Perhapsthebestbonusbirdofallwasthenspottedbyyoungeagle-eyedChrisfromthebackofthemovingcoach.ThereonadeadstumpoutintheopeninfullviewbythesideoftheroadwasaNightjar.

Chukar

Above:NightjarcourtesyRussTofts

Thiswasonthewaytoseeanothertripspecial–Olive-treeWarblerwhichwesawbutnotterriblywell.OthersweretoseeonemuchbetteratanothersiteonthewaytoBurgasbutImisseditwatchingbutterflieswithRuss.Theafternoon’sstopwasacloselyguardedsitewhereImperialEagleswerenesting.Wehadviewsofthefemalecomingintolandandajuvenilethenthefemaleonthenestatsomerangeandpartlyobscuredbyfoliage.ApairofMontagu’sHarriersseenwelloverfieldsfromthemovingcoachbroughttheday’sraptortallyto13species.OurdrivethentookusontoBurgasandtheseasideresortofPomoriewhereouraimwastoexplorethecoastalsalinelagoons.Thefollowingmorning’spre-breakfastwalkwasnottodisappointintheliferdepartmentwithaTawnyPipit.ThefirstfulldayaroundthelagoonsaroundBurgasproducedasuperbselectionofwetlandandwaterbirdsalthoughwehadmissedmostofthepassagewaders.ThemaintripspecialitytargetwasonLakeVayahometobothGreatWhiteandDalmationPelicanswherewealsosawthefirstofmanyBlack-crownedNightHerons,PurpleHerons,LittleBitternandSquaccoHeronsandonalargeexpanseoffloodedfields,creatingexcitementforLyuboinparticular,wasaCattleEgret–aBulgarianvagrant.Itwasfuntotellhimwe’dhadoneinManchestertoo!HerewehadFerruginousDuckswhichcountsasaliferreallyastheseweretherealdealandnotyourdodgyEnglishvariety.AWhite-tailedEaglecamerightoverheadandtherewerePygmyCormorantsbuttheseweredistantandremainedsothroughoutthetrip.IhadmuchbetterviewsofthisspeciesinthePoDeltainItalyafewyearsback.

FerruginousDuckLakeDurankulakandfemaleRed-footedFalconcourtesyofRussTofts

LaterinthedayatastopnearLakeAtanasovosomeofourpartyenjoyedPendulineTitswhilstLyuboandIsplitoffandhefoundmetwoGull-billedTerns.Yetanotherlifer.Thissuperbdayendedwithmoremuchdesiredlifersforme:CollaredPratincoles,43Red-FootedFalconsand,atanareaofstonygroundnearPomporie,apairofStone-CurlewwhichIhaveneverseeninEnglandeitherhavingnevermadethepilgrimagetoWeetingHeath.ThenextdaysdrivewasnorthtoKavarnamakingalastexplorationofthelagoonsandturningupsomesmartbreedingplumageCurlewSandpipers,twoLittleStintandsomerealRuddyShelduck.TheprimetargetsitealongthewaywasformoretripspecialsandlifersinanareaofforestnearGoritsa.HearwehadgreatviewsofMiddleSpottedWoodpeckeroutintheopenonadeadtreeandaliferforall:Semi-collaredFlycatcherwhichbreedhere.

Middle-spottedwoodpeckerandSemi-collaredFlycatcher

ThelaststopofthedaywasagainahighlightformanywithavisittoanareaofcliffsnearKavarnawichhostbreedingEagleOwlandonewasobliginglysatoutintheopenforussunningitself.

Above:EagleOwl

ThefollowingdaystargetwasLakeDurankulakwherethewesternmostbreedingPaddyfieldWarbleraretobefound.Howeverbeforethatonthepre-breakfaststrollrightoutsidethehotelamaleLevantSparrowhawkflewbypracticallyrightinfrontofmyface.LakeDurankulakrightnexttothebeachisasuperblybeautifulplaceandwewishedwecouldhavestayedtherealldayreally.OurPaddyfieldWarblersshowedwellasdidSavi’sWarbler(bothlifersforme)andsomeobligingCuckoos.

Birdingonthebeach,LakeDurankulakandPaddyfieldWarblerLakeDurankulakcourtesyofRussTofts

Above:CuckooLakeDurankulak

Above:ringedSavi’sWarbler

OurpicniclunchstopwasanareaofcliffsatVailatawithThracianburialtombscutintothecliffedgeandwideopenplaininlandalivewithCalandraLarks,acoupleofGreaterShort-toedLarksandPiedWheatearinthecarparkofthetinyvisitorcentre.Russcalledinagroupof15Rose-colouredStarlingsandIgotontothemastheyzoomedpastnorth.Luckilyforallwelatercaughtupwithabedraggled-lookingflockof40atCapeKaliakra

CalandraLarkVailataarchaeologicalsitecourtesyRusstoftsandRose-colouredStarlingsCapeKaliarkra

ThefinalmorningatKavarnastartedwithanotherlookforLevantSparrowhawkoutsidethehotellookingdownintothevalleyandRussfoundadistantmaleaddingittohislifelistatlast.Luckilythebirdcamecloserandwasseenwelldisplayingtoafemalewhichperchedupinatreeinthescopeallowingeveryonetogetontoit.LyuboexplainedacleardiagnosticfeatureofLevantSparrowhawkwhichwasclearlyvisibleinthescope:theblackeyeasopposedtotheyelloweyeofSparrowhawk.Wealsogottoobserveandnotewelltheblacktipstothewingsofthemaleinflight.ItwasthenontotheDanubeValleyandLakeSrebarnafamousforitsbreedingDalmationPelicanswhichwehadalreadyencounteredearlieronthetripbygoodfortune.Icountedoffanimpressive223WhiteStorks,61GreatWhitePelicans,12BlackStorks,12Spoonbillsandvariousotherheronsducksandwadersonsomefloodedfieldsalongtheway.LakeSrebarnagaveusexcellentviewsofWhiskeredTernandmoreFerruginous

Ducks,Black-neckedGrebeonthenestandGreatWhiteEgretswhicharesurprisinglyrareinBulgariaasabreedingbird.PerhapsthehighlightwaswatchingamalePendulineTitworkingonitsnest.ThePelicanBirdingLodgewherewestayedthenightinthevillageofVetrenwasadelightandtheeveningwasrounded-offwithaLong-EaredOwlflyingoverthehotel,aScopsOwlhooting(notseenonthetripthough)andNightjarchurringfromthelane.ThefinalfulldaywastakenupwithaverylongdrivetoSofiabringingourtotaltravelforthetripto2060km(over1,300miles).AlongthewaythehighpointwastheabandonedfishpondsofNovaChernawhereIaddedMarshWarblertomylifelistandweallhadsplendidviewsofanestingWryneckandanobligingmaleLittleBittern.

Above:MarshWarblerNovaChernafishpondscourtesyRussTofts

ThelongdriveinvolvedanumberofspeculativestopsalongthewaywhichyieldedamalemauraStonechat,Whinchat,moreBlack-headedWagtailswhichfeaturedprominentlyonthetripandaCorncrakewhichrefusedtoshow.OurfinalnightwasspentonMountVitoshahighaboveSofiawhereoureveningmealgaveusPallidSwiftsatlastrightoutsidethepanoramawindows.Liferswerebeginningtorunoutandtherewerenonebeforebreakfast!Butthepost-breakfastmorningwalkthroughthetreesanduptothesnowlinegaveusapairofWaterPipitseatinginsectsoffthesnowmeltandafinalcherry-on-the-cakeliferofasuperbtripaswecaughtupwithRockThrushandIwasamongstanadvancepartytoenjoythebestviewsbeforetherestofthepartywereallabletoscopeitoff.

Above:digiscopedRockThrush!

Thepartyturnedaveryimpressive210speciesofwhich4wereheardonly.Imissedafewbutstillhit200andsaw60lifers.ManythankstoBirdquest,ourguidesDerekScottandLyuboProfirov,thegreatcompanyofallourpartyandspecialthankstoRussToftsandJeanThomasforlettingmeusetheirbrilliantphotos.Alltheotherhand-heldfuzzyaffairsdigiscopedbymyself.Seeourtourleader,DerekScott’stripreportandfullspecieslistatwww.birdquest.co.uk

TimWilcox,July2010

www.manchesterbirding.com