Bushmills Climbing Frame Instruction Manual

Parts List

Item Number

Description Image Quantity

1 Railings

4

2 3m post cut at 60° angle

2 (one with a 32mm hole pre-drilled)

3 3m post for swing bar

Holes pre-drilled depending on swing choices

1

4 1575mm post

2

5 8.5ft post

3

6 6ft post

1

7 2142mm post

2

8 1715mm post

2

9 8ft x 6ft base

1

10 1903mm x 3” x 1.5”

2

11 2142mm x 3” x 1.5”

2

12 Decking screws

Approx. 250

13 200mm index screws

24

14 120mm screws

20

15 Sides for playhouse

2

16 Front for playhouse

1

17 Rear for playhouse

1

18 Floor for playhouse

1

19 Roof Panels + felt for playhouse

2 of each

20 M10 swing hook

6 (as standard, depends on swing choices)

21 Rock wall

1 (10 rocks as standard for 8ft wall) (5ft wall has 5 rock holds)

22 9ft Slide

1

23 Swing (varies depending on customers choice)

3 as standard

24 Screw covers

18

25 Set of steps

1

26 1460mm x 3” x 1.5”

1

Other components included: Handgrips, telescope, steering wheel, fascia, side trims and bottom

trims for playhouse, 20mm roof nails

Tools needed:

• Cordless drill

• Handsaw

• Spirit Level

• Hammer

• Shovel

• Stepladder

• Pencil

• Measuring tape

• 10mm Hex bit

• PZ 2 Drill Bit

Ground Preparation

1. Lay out the base, slide and the 3m swing bar in the position that you intend the climbing

frame to be placed. Ensure the base is parallel of any buildings, fences etc. that you are

wishing to match in with. This will give you the size of the footprint the frame will take up in

the garden. Allow for at least 1.8m clearance beyond the end of the slide and 1.2m

clearance for the steps, rock module and swing module.

2. Once you are happy that the layout is correct, remove the swing bar and slide.

3. Mark out clearly the centre of all 4 cut outs the platform base. Once these are marked you

can lift the bases out of your way and then dig your holes.

4. If the climbing frame is on a level surface, then dig the holes at a diameter of 12” and depth

12”. The tricky part is when the surface is uneven; in this case you would have to

compensate for the slope by making some holes deeper or shallower than others (minimum

depth of 10”). The bottoms of all holes need to be level.

Assembly Instructions

All components needed during the assembly are numbered with reference to the parts list, please

refer back to the parts list to ensure you are assembling the correct components for each step.

Step 1: Platform H-Frame Assembly

• Lay out an 8.5ft post and the 6ft post with a 1715mm post between them. Secure using 2 x

200mm screws into each 32mm hole

Step 2:

• Make a mark 600mm from the bottom of both posts

• Using the 1903mm 3” x 1.5” timber and using the 65mm decking screws screw the timber to

the frame (this is to strengthen the H-frame structure, without this additional support at the

bottom the frame will twist once it is lifted up)

Step 3:

• Repeat steps 1 & 2 for the other side of the platform, except use two 8.5ft posts instead of

an 8.5ft post and a 6ft post

Step 4: Connecting the two sides of the platform

• Screw the two sides of the platform together using a 2142mm post at each side and 2 x

200mm screws into each of the 32mm holes

Step 5:

• Screw the two pieces of 2142mm 3” x 1.5” to the 1903mm x 3” x 1.5” timber supports using

decking screws

Step 6:

• Lift the platform and place it into the holes that have been dug

Step 7: Base Assembly

• Lift the base onto the platform and fit the corners tightly to the vertical posts. The base

corner with no cut out is for the corner with the small vertical post and should sit on top of

this post. The 3” x 1.5” base supports should sit onto the horizontal posts

• Secure the base to the posts using the 120mm screws provided. They should be screwed

directly into the base down into the 4” x 4” horizontal posts

Step 8: Railings Assembly

• The railings are now ready to be put into their respective slots

• The open ones are for the steps, slide, rope bridge and fireman’s pole and the closed ones

are for the 8ft rock module, 8ft cargo net and swing module. They should fit tightly into

place between the upright posts and on the base

• The ‘double’ timbers on the side-rails should be on top and the single timber should be at

the bottom

• Secure the bottom rail to the base using decking screws

• Using the 120mm screws, screw through the upright post so as to tighten the top railing to

the post

Step 9:

• Repeat for all railings

Step 10: Playhouse Assembly

• Once the railings are in place it’s time to build the playhouse. The playhouse comes in 7

parts: 1 floor, 4 walls and 2 roof pieces

• Place the floor on the appropriate corner of the base. At this stage you will need to fit the

T&G front and side trims to cover the edges of the base. These should fit tight between the

base and the railings

• Place the base on the platform and position it so that it is flush to edge of the platform

Step 11:

• Add all 4 sides and screw into place using the 65mm decking screws supplied. Screw through

the 2” x 1.5” timber to secure the walls to each other and to the floor of the playhouse. You

will also need to apply a bead of silicone between each corner where the panels meet, to

ensure the playhouse remains watertight

Step 12:

• Now add the roof panels and screw down using the 40mm chipboard and 65mm decking

screws

• All that remains is nailing down the felt supplied onto the roof (with the 20mm roof nails

supplied)

Step 13: Securing the playhouse to the platform

• Once the playhouse is complete, screw decking screws up through the 8ft x 6ft base into the

supports of the playhouse base

• Also screw decking screws from the inside of the playhouse into the railings to make the

railings and playhouse secure

Step 14: Swing Module Assembly

• Lay the 2 x 3m posts (with the ends cut off at 60 degrees) on a flat surface

• Place the ends together so that it forms an A-shape

• Using the 200mm index screws, screw the ends together, so the two posts meet nice and

flush on all sides

Step 15:

• Measure down from the top of the ‘A’ post 900mm to both posts and place the 1460mm 3”

x 1.5” timber across both posts and secure these into place with decking screws

• Cut the 1460mm 3” x 1.5” timber so that it is flush on both sides of the A-frame

Step 16:

• Place each swing hook through the pre-drilled holes of the 3m post that is square on both

ends, secure using the appropriate spanner

Step 17:

• Now the tricky part. The ‘A’-frame is designed to be at an 80° angle (i.e it is not at 90 degrees

to the surface). This is best achieved by measuring 11 ft from the end of the climbing frame

to the base of the A-frame

• The ‘A’-frame should be then lined up to the centre of the frame

• The holes on the ground should then be marked and the ‘A’-frame should be sunk into its

place so that the swing bar is level. If your garden is level, holes about 250mm-300mm will

suffice. If your garden is running at a slope, you may need to dig the holes deeper or

shallower depending on which way the ground is falling. The aim is to level the swing bar as

well as the 3” x 1.5” support on the A frame

Step 18:

• Once this is achieved (no easy task), then secure both ends into place, screw 120mm screws

down into the railing, and 200mm index screws down into each leg of the A-frame

Step 19: Rock Wall Assembly

• The rock wall is typically made slightly longer than required to allow for a slope

• Place the rock wall against the top of a closed railing

• Measure the amount you may have to take off the bottom of the rock wall

• Cut the bottom of the rock wall to ensure that it fits flush onto the top of the top rail

• Screw the rock wall into its place using 2 x 65mm screw per board, ensuring you predrill the

holes to avoid splitting the timber

Step 20: Slide Assembly

• Using 2 decking screws, secure the slide to the bottom timber of an open railing through the

pre-drilled holes in the slide

Step 21: Steps Assembly

• The steps might have to be cut or dug into place (depending on the slope of your surface)

• They are secured using decking screws through the top and sides of the steps into the base

of the tower. Again, ensure these holes are well pre-drilled to avoid splitting. The holes and

screws will have to be angled to the surface of the steps

Step 22: Swing Attachment

• Hang your chosen swings from the swing hooks

Step 23: Concreting structure

• Using postcrete and following the manufacturer’s instructions, concrete all the posts into

the ground

• The frame should be left overnight before it is used to ensure the postcrete has dried.

Step 24: Removing the H-Frame supports

• Remove the lower H-Frame supports that were added during steps 2 and 5.

The final stage is to put on the accessories, press the screw covers into the 32mm holes and give

everything a good sand down to avoid the children getting splinters from any rough edges. All screws

should also be checked to ensure they are flush to the surface they are securing.

Maintaining Your Climbing Frame

My climbing frame has been installed, what do I do next? A: If your climbing frame was installed in a grassed area the installers have concreted the frame into the ground. They have left a small exposed hole, where the posts have been sunk into the ground. The reason this has been done is to allow the concrete to set overnight. Before allowing the children to play on the climbing frame, please ensure that the sods of grass have been replaced over the holes to leave the ground flush around the posts. Please do not allow your children to play on the climbing frame until the sods of grass have been put back. Q: How should I maintain my Climbing Frame? A: There are many customers whose Climbing frames last for years as a result of simple steps taken to ensure the wood's longevity. The timber used on your climbing frame has been pressure treated. This essentially means that it has been put into a pressurised vessel and has been impregnated with wood preserve. With time and due exposure to weather conditions the colour fades away. We suggest you treat the wood once every 2 years (completely optional). Not only will this keep it looking ‘lively’ but will also help it last as long as possible. Q: What kind of stain should I use? A: We used a water-based treatment when we made the products. You can use a water-based or oil-based stain at your discretion. However, once you switch to oil you will not be able to return to water-based from that point forward. Your local home improvement, hardware or DIY store will have plenty of options and suggestions for you. Q: What else should I do? A: We suggest you check bolt tightness and all hardware periodically to ensure everything is in proper order.

We hope you enjoyed the challenge of the build and hope the children get years of enjoyment out of

their new frame.

Team NICF.