How waves are formed, and what effects them

By Sally Bishop-Smith

Wind is the main reason waves are formed. Wind drags on the water’s surface, that

creates energy and friction. The stronger the wind is the bigger and

stronger the waves will be, that’s why storms create such big waves.

Wind

Waves start very far from the shore At first, when the wind drags on the water it

creates ripples, but soon those ripples become bigger until they become so big they reach their peak and the crest (top of the wave) forms, and comes down.

Wind (continued)

Waves can also be formed by earthquakes. The size of the wave depends on the size of

the earthquake. When the ground shakes, it upsets the

ocean causing big waves with different shapes because the shape of the ground has changed

Earthquakes

Tsunamis are huge waves that can crush buildings and towns.

These are not caused by everyday wind. They are most commonly caused by

earthquakes, like the one in Japan. They can also be formed in big storms.

Tsunamis

The shape of the of the ocean floor can have an effect on the shape of the wave.

The depth of the ocean effects the waves, they can’t be very big in shallow water

The topography and the wind also effect where the tides will be.

Topography of the Ocean Floor

People who study waves are called physical oceanographers.

One thing they do is take pictures and are able to study the depth, height, tides, formation and even reflected waves.

Pictures can also map the area and land formations by the water that effect the waves.

People also preform varius expiraments in the water to check tides and waves.

How Do We Know?

You can also float something in the water and time it or watch how fast it goes to check for tides.

Scientists also use simulations to find the direction of the wave energy.

If you measure the wind speed you will find the harder it blows, the bigger the waves are.

How We Know (continued)

It would help to know that rip tides can influence the waves.

In a wave, the water molecules don’t actually move forward, instead they move in a circular orbit.

Tsunamis don’t happen on any normal day, there has to be a VERRY big storm or, more commonly, an earthquake.

All waves start as swells, and get bigger as they move along.

To Better Understand Waves…

When I think of waves, I think of water moving forward, but like I said in the last slide, that is not true.

In deeper water the motion of the water molecules is circular, but as it gets shallow, the motion is an elliptical orbit.

Moving Forward

"Indian Ocean Tsunami's Puzzling Waves Explained." - Environment. N.p., n.d. Web.

28 Mar. 2013. "SIO 210." SIO 210. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Mar.

2013. "Waves." About.com Geography. N.p., n.d.

Web. 28 Mar. 2013. "Waves." Waves. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Mar.

2013.

Citations