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Bonjour Québec!A stroll along the lively streets of Montréal or
Québec City? A jaunt through the Laurentians, the Charlevoix region
or around Île d’Orléans? An excursion through the Gaspésie or
Saguenay regions? How about an expedition into the far-off lands of
Northern Québec? Wherever you go in Québec, this Ulysses Travel
Guide is one travelling companion you won’t want to go without.
Ulysses offers an in-depth look at Québec’s history and culture,
descriptions of scores of charming restaurants, hotels and
B&Bs, plus countless ideas for outdoor activities across this
unique province.
This guidebook featuresDescriptions of more than 1,000
attractions in every region of Québec, star-rated so you can spot
the must-sees at a glance;
Suggestions for over 1,000 places to eat, sleep, shop and live
it up, no matter what your budget or tastes;
Striking colour plates that bring the scenery to life;
Countless regional and city maps to help you find your way
around.
Written by Quebecers, the Ulysses Travel Guide Québec is the
most complete guide for your next vacation à la Québécoise!
•
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Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e
Québec
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The Seasons in QuébecQuébec folksinger Gilles Vigneault said it
best: "Mon pays ce n'est pas un pays, c'est l'hiver" (my country is
not a country, it is winter). Though this long, cold season is most
closely associated with Québec, all four seasons leave their mark
on the province: the cold freezes waterfalls into walls of ice in
winter, waters rise and plants come to life with the spring thaw,
bright sun and sometimes unbearable heat waves last through the
summer until Indian summer, the final hurrah before the brilliant
spectacle of the fall colours. Quebecers have learned to make the
most of the many incarnations of their home, heading to the
mountains, forests, lakes and mighty rivers no matter what the
season...
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Félix Leclerc, a beloved Québécois folksinger, honoured the
simple pleasures of spring in L'hymne au printemps: the calls of
frogs and robins herald the arrival of spring: tiny buds on trees
and bushes slowly grow into leaves and flowers, dandelions blanket
the fields and the fresh smell of the earth returns to the
air...
The St. Lawrence lowlands still bear the stamp of the old French
seigneurial system, which divided the land into long, narrow
rectangular plots in order to give the greatest possible number of
colonists access to the waterways. Beyond the farmhouses that line
the rangs (country roads), fields run on as far as the eye can
see.
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A fisher's life is a hard one, requiring backbreaking work,
endurance and patience. The bounty of those fishing in the Gulf of
St. Lawrence includes crab, shrimp, scallops, turbot, halibut,
herring and mackerel.
Québec is very rich in wildlife. Those who quietly explore the
country’s parks and other rural areas may be delighted to encounter
anything from racoons to moose, the latter often found near bodies
of water, as pictured here.
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The remote and mysterious Îles de la Madeleine (Magdalen
Islands) have been sculpted by the wind and the sea.
A land of lakes and rivers, Québec is a choice spot for a slew
of water sports: canoeing, kayaking, sailing, windsurfing, fishing,
rafting... and the list goes on.
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Country house, summer cottage or lakefront chalet...call it what
you will, it is the dream of many an urban dweller in this
province. What better way to pass the summer than out in the
country, far from the heat and humidity of the city?
When fall arrives, the forests of Québec ignite with colour.
This blaze of red, orange and gold transforms the countryside and
is best experienced during those last warm days of Indian
summer.
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These two huskies and their team members lead the way to
adventure across Québec's winter landscape. Several companies have
revived this traditional Inuit mode of transportation and today
make it available to the public.
As soon as the waterways and lakes freeze over, the shacks go
up, the hole in the ice is drilled and the ice fishing, or pêche
blanche, season begins.
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Québec ArchitectureQuébec architecture is at once the result of
a population adapting to a difficult climate and a synthesis of
French, British and American influences. The photos in this section
illustrate the evolution of Québec architecture, including both
simple buildings erected by farmers and elaborate works designed by
world-renowned architects.
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Marché Bonsecours, erected between 1845 and 1850, reflects
mid-19th-century British colonial ambitions in Montréal. Its
metallic dome, formidable portico, Tuscan pillars and sash windows
are typically neoclassical—a very popular style throughout the
British Empire during the first half of the 19th century.
For many years, Québec invested all of its creative energies in
the interior decors of its churches, which resulted in veritable
woodworking masterpieces. The choir of Église de la Visitation du
Sault-au-Récollet (Montréal), designed by Philippe Liébert and
David-Fleury David between 1764 and 1818, skillfully combines Louis
XV and Louis XVI styles. The traditional combination of white and
gold is embellished with bright colours.
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The inhabitants' sense of insecurity, along with the king's
desire to better protect his colony, resulted in the towns and
villages of New France being surrounded by wood or stone
fortresses. A number of forts designed to slow down the enemy were
also established. Indeed, the fortresses had to resist both the
surprise attacks of hostile Aboriginal peoples as well as the
British army, which would arrive by sea on war ships.
Throughout the 19th century, Quebecers endeavored to adapt to
the climatic extremes of the St. Lawrence Valley by developing what
was to become a traditional Québec architecture. For example, they
raised the masonry foundation and adorned their houses with long
verandas to prevent snow from piling on window sills. The decreased
pitch of the roof kept snow from falling off, so it could serve as
insulation.
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What makes Vieux Québec so charming is not only its great
monuments but also its houses, each of which has its own story to
tell. It is enjoyable to stroll through its narrow streets and
observe the minute details of this compact architecture, losing
oneself in an urban landscape that is quite unusual to most North
Americans.
Colourful Victorian homes such as these, with impossibly steep
or contorted exterior staircases, have become emblematic of
Montréal.
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In 1851, Father Joseph Déziel decided to build a large Catholic
church for his rapidly expanding city. It was Thomas Baillargé, the
architect who designed many of Québec City's churches, who drew up
the plans. The architecture featured at the Notre-Dame de Lévis
church is a beautiful example of the Québécois neoclassical
tendency, combining the French and English styles. The interior,
divided into three naves, features high galleries with columns, and
outside, a plaque marks the place where English cannons bombarded
Québec City in 1759.
The Château Frontenac, a magnificent hotel, symbolizes Québec
City. Designed by American architect Bruce Price, its style was
influenced both by the castles of Scotland and those of the Loire
region of France.
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The unique architecture of the Canadian Museum of Civilization
in Gatineau was designed by Douglas Cardinal, an Aboriginal
architect from Alberta. This museum is composed of two unusual,
organically shaped structures.
The unique architecture of Montréal's Habitat ‘67, designed by
Moshe Safdie, makes these posh condominiums resemble a pile of
blocks.
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QuébecEighth Edition
Eastward, the view down the St. Lawrence towards the Gulf is the
finest of all, scarcely surpassed by anything in the world. Your
eye follows the range of lofty mountains until their blue summits
are blended and lost in the blue of the sky.
Susanna Moodie, Roughing it in the Bush (1852)
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Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication
Main entry under title :
Québec
(Ulysses travel guide) Translation of: Le Québec. Includes
index.
ISSN 1486-3502 ISBN 2-89464-711-5
1. Québec (Province) - Guidebooks. I. Series.
FC2907.Q4913 917.1404’5 C99-301663-4
Guide UpdatePierre Ledoux
Research and WritingFrançois Rémillard (Exploring)Benoit Prieur
(Portrait)
Additional research and writing: Gabriel Audet, Caroline
Béliveau, Julie Brodeur, Alexandre Chouinard, Daniel Desjardins,
Alexandra Gilbert, Olivier Gougeon, Élodie Luquet, Stéphane G.
Marceau, Jacqueline Grekin, François Hénault, Judith Lefebvre,
Alain Legault, Claude Morneau, Yves Ouellet, Joël Pomerleau, Sylvie
Rivard, Yves Séguin, Marcel Verreault.
Previous ContributorsVirginie Bonneau, Nathalie Boucher,
Catherine Desforges, Simon Dubé, Claude Feuiltault, Annie Frenette,
Séverine Giroux, Isabel Gosselin, Alain Legault, Jennifer McMorran,
Francis Plourde, Marc Rigole, Steve Rioux, Christian Roy, Maxime
Soucy, Christopher Woodward.
PublisherOlivier Gougeon
Production DirectorAndré Duchesne
Copy EditingCindy Garayt
Computer GraphicsMarie-France DenisIsabelle Lalonde
CartographersPascal BietBradley Fenton
PhotographyCover pageFrançois Rivard / ATR CharlevoixInside
pagesPatrick EscuderoPhilippe Renault
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by
any means, including photocopying, without the written permission
of the publisher.
© June 2006, Ulysses Travel GuidesAll rights reserved Printed in
CanadaISBN 2-89464-711-5
Acknowledgements We acknowledge the financial support of the
Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry
Development Program (BPIDP) for our publishing activities. We would
also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book
publishing – Administered by SODEC.
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Île auxAllumettes
Île du GrandCalumet
Rivière
des
Outaouais
RéservoirBaskatong
LacSimard
La Pêche
Arnprior
Buckingham
Gatineau
Bouchette
Kazabazua
Notre-Dame-du-Laus
Maniwaki
Otter Lake
Ladysmith
Shawville
Renfrew
Watham
Rapide-des-Joachims
Petawawa
PembrokeThornby
Grand-Remous
Ferme-Neuve
Louvicourt
Senneterre
St-Mathieu-d'HarricanaSt-Marc
Sullivan
Rivière-Héva
Amos
Val-d'Or
Malartic
D'Alembert
St-Gérard-de-Berry
Duparquet
Évain Rouyn-Noranda
Ville-Marie BelleterreLatulipe
Rollet
Virginiatown
Rouliers
Nédélec
Notre-Dame-du-Nord
Rémigny
Mattawa
Témiscaming
Wakefield
Aylmer
RéserveFaunique
La Vérendrye
Parc Nationald'Aiguebelle
GatineauPark
Ottawa
ABITIBI-TÉMISCAMINGUE
OUTAOUAIS
O N TAR I O
Cratère duNouveau-Québec
Îled'Anticosti
AménagementRobert Bourassa
HudsonBay
JamesBay
UngavaBay
Hudson Strait
Kawawachikamach
Killiniq
Kuujjuaq
Aupaluk
Kangirsuk
Quaqtaq
KangiqsujuaqSalluit
Ivujivik
Puvirnituq(Povungnituk)
Inukjuak
Umiujaq
WuapmagoostuiSchefferville
Nemiscau
Laforge
Fontanges Brisay
NitchequonWemindjiEastmain
Chisasibi
Waskaganish
Radisson
Kuujjuarapik
Kangiqsualujjuaq
Rimouski
MataneGaspé
Fermont
MatagamiWaswanipi
Oujé-Bougoumou
Val-d'Or
Amos
Rouyn-Noranda
Chibougamau
Mistissini
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Sept-Îles
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DUPLESSIS
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MA
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Northern Québec (James Bay and Nunavik)
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Travel better, enjoy more
w w w . u l y s s e s g u i d e s . c o m
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£14.99$27.95 USD$29.95 CAD
Bonjour Québec!A stroll along the lively streets of Montréal or
Québec City? A jaunt through the Laurentians, the Charlevoix region
or around Île d’Orléans? An excursion through the Gaspésie or
Saguenay regions? How about an expedition into the far-off lands of
Northern Québec? Wherever you go in Québec, this Ulysses Travel
Guide is one travelling companion you won’t want to go without.
Ulysses offers an in-depth look at Québec’s history and culture,
descriptions of scores of charming restaurants, hotels and
B&Bs, plus countless ideas for outdoor activities across this
unique province.
This guidebook featuresDescriptions of more than 1,000
attractions in every region of Québec, star-rated so you can spot
the must-sees at a glance;
Suggestions for over 1,000 places to eat, sleep, shop and live
it up, no matter what your budget or tastes;
Striking colour plates that bring the scenery to life;
Countless regional and city maps to help you find your way
around.
Written by Quebecers, the Ulysses Travel Guide Québec is the
most complete guide for your next vacation à la Québécoise!
•
•
•
•
Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e
Québec
www.ulyssesguides.com
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