Cagliari In Your Pocket

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

CagliariSummer / Autumn 2015Summer / Autumn 2015

inyourpocket.com

ExperienceRich history, warm sunshine, sandy beaches

SavourEnjoy the best of Sardiniancuisine, treats and wine

ExploreWander the city’s colourful streets, markets and shops

Summer / Autumn 2015 3

Contents

Saint Remy Rampart © Julia Wohlers

Arriving & Basics 5

Restaurants 11

Cafés 15

Nightlife 16

Sightseeing 17

Shopping 25

Directory 31

Where to sleep 32

Maps & IndexPublic transport map 34

City centre map 36

Index 38

Metro map 39

VIA DANTE 92/A, CAGLIARITEL. (+39) 070 49 69 30

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4 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer / Autumn 2015 5

Arriving & BasicsForewordPublisherIYP Italia S.r.l.Via San Vincenzo 2 - XI piano16121 Genoa, Italy

Head offi ceVia Benigno Crespi 19 - MAC4 - IV piano20159 Milan, ItalyTel. +39 02 00 69 71 41Fax +39 02 00 69 71 [email protected]

Printed by Sainas Industrie Grafi che, Villaspeciosa, Italy

Editorial Editor-in-Chief: Lorenzo MarsanoContributors: Lorenzo Marsano, Julia WohlersLayout: Tomáš HamanMaps: © CityRailways for ARST, CTM S.p.A., OpenStreetMap contributorsCover photo © Marina di Portus Karalis

Sales & Circulation Roberta Greco, Silvia Melis

Special Thanks Antonina Gaspa, Alessandra Manca

Copyright Notice & Editor’s NoteText and photos (unless otherwise stated) © IYP Italia S.r.l. 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).We have made every eff ort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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TOUR BAIREBuses to a number of destinations south-west of Cagliari. Tickets are sold on board buses. Tour Baire also off ers coach, minibus and chauff eur driven cars hire, and provides transfer pick ups at Cagliari-Elmas Airport.QVia Cagliari 88, Capoterra, tel. (+39) 070 72 02 18, fax (+39) 070 72 07 67, [email protected], www.tourbaire.it. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

ARRIVING BY FERRYFerry terminals are just 100m west of via Roma, a few metres from the main bus and train stations. Tirrenia operates regular ferry services for passengers and vehicles to and from Civitavecchia and Naples in the mainland, Palermo in Sicily.

TIRRENIAQA-4, Agenave, via Riva di Ponente, tel. (+39) 070 66 60 65/(+39) 070 66 30 04, www.tirrenia.it. Ticket offi ce open 08:30 - 12:20, 16:15 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:20, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:00.

ARRIVING BY CRUISE SHIPCruise ships dock at the Rinascita and Sabaudo wharfs (A-4), conveniently located just a few minutes walk from the city centre.

COSTA CRUISESQtel. 848 50 50 50, www.costacruise.com.

MSC CRUISESQtel. 848 24 24 90, www.msccruises.com.

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINEQtel. (+39) 010 897 65 19, [email protected], www.ncl.com.

P&O CRUISESQwww.pocruises.com.

ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONALQtel. (+39) 010 421 82 02, www.royalcaribbean.com.

ARRIVING BY SAILING BOATMARINA DI PORTUS KARALISLocated in the section of the harbour facing via Roma, it’s a perfect spot for both small and large vessels. It is especially convenient if you want to remain close to the city’s shops, restaurants and bars, all of which are in a short walking distance.QC-4, Molo Dogana, tel. (+39) 070 65 35 35, fax (+39) 070 640 48 98, [email protected], www.portuskaralis.blogspot.it. Offi ce open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:30.

MARINA DI SANT’ELMOMarina di Sant’Elmo has 300 berths for boats up to 30 tons. It off ers a variety of services from general repairs and maintenance to toilets, showers and launderette.QCalata dei Mercedari, Su Siccu, tel. (+39) 070 34 41 69, [email protected], www.marinasantelmo.it. Offi ce open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

ARRIVING BY PLANECAGLIARI-ELMAS AIRPORTLocated about 7km from the city centre, it is the biggest and busiest airport in Sardinia, well connected to most major Italian and European destinations. It has car rental kiosks, ATMs, a tourist information desk, conference facilities, a pharmacy and a small selection of shops and food outlets. The cheapest and easiest way to the city is to take a train. To get to the train station go out of the arrival hall and follow the signs which lead to the travelator to the left of the car rental centre. Trains to Cagliari depart up to four times per hour between 06:00 and 22:20. The trip takes 5-6 minutes and costs €1.25. Alternatively, getting to the city centre takes between 10-15 minutes by taxi (€15 - 25), and add just a few more minutes if travelling by bus. Regional bus company ARST operates from the airport to the bus station between 05:20 and 22:30. Tickets are €4 when purchased in advance or €5 from the driver. A self-service ticket machine is available in the arrival hall. Have exact change ready when you buy the ticket on board.QVia dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 21 12 11, fax (+39) 070 24 10 13, [email protected], www.cagliariairport.it. PUGW

ARRIVING BY TRAINTrenitalia serves Cagliari-Elmas Airport (a c. 5 mins journey) and all major Sardinian destinations, such as Oristano (c. 1hr 15mins), Sassari (c. 3hrs), Olbia (c. 3hrs 30mins) and Porto Torres (c. 4hrs).

TRAIN STATION (STAZIONE FERROVIARIA)The station is just a few steps away from the city centre. It has an ATM, a bar and a newsagent’s shop. There are no left luggage facilities. Tickets must be clipped before boarding the train.QA-3, Via Roma 22, tel. 199 89 20 21/(+39) 06 30 00, www.trenitalia.it. Ticket offi ce open 06:15 - 13:10, 13:15 - 20:10.

ARRIVING BY BUSCagliari is linked to all major Sardinian destinations through the regional bus company ARST. Tickets are sold at the bus station and must be clipped once on board. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the bus, but expect a surcharge.

BUS STATION (AUTOSTAZIONE ARST)The bus station is very centrally located, adjacent to the train station and no more than a fi ve-minute walk to piazza Yenne. Facilities include left luggage (deposito bagagli , €1 per hour), a fast food restaurant and a Hertz car rental kiosk.QA/B-3/4, Piazza Matteotti 9, tel. (+39) 070 40 98 11/800 86 50 42, [email protected], www.arst.sardegna.it. Ticket offi ce and left luggage open 06:30 - 20:30. A self-service ticket machine is also available.

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Nestling in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea Sardinia is a jewel waiting to be discovered boasting breath-taking coastlines, clear waters and a rich historic background. However, for many years Cagliari, the chief town, remained slightly off the beaten track as a tourist destination. Indeed, it was more of an arrival or departure point for tourists travelling on to other destinations on the island.

Cagliari’s rich history can be traced in the beautiful architecture, which characterizes the heart of the city. It is in fact divided into four ancient districts (Castello, Marina, Stampace and Villanova) and each boasts unique character and its own wealth of gems. Rising up from the glistening waters of the port the highest point is Castello, which looks out majestically onto the Golfo degli Angeli (Gulf of Angels) below down over the narrow cobbled streets of Stampace and Marina districts. The panorama unfolds over the bobbing sailboats in the harbour, across the new residential areas and the salt lakes of the Molentargius Saline Park and out towards Poetto Beach as far as the towering headland of Sella del Diavolo (Devil’s Saddle).

Cagliari is a bustling, vibrant city, which has grown rapidly in recent years to combine places of great cultural interest with important sporting events, entertainment and nightlife. Visitors can spend their days strolling through the old town, visiting the numerous galleries and museums and browsing craft shops, or just sipping coff ee in a bar while watching the world go by.

However, the charm of Cagliari perhaps lies in the fact that in the transformation to a modern tourist destination the city has managed to preserve the quaint and quirky atmosphere of a sleepy, Mediterranean town steeped in ancient history and traditions. Therefore, when you come to Cagliari enjoy a journey back through time, savour the fragrances, sample the delicacies and discover the city’s secrets but all in comfort and style.


Arriving & BasicsArriving & BasicsMARINA PICCOLAMarina Piccola is located at the beginning of Poetto Beach. The marina has a café and a restaurant-pizzeria, and is also the perfect place for a stroll to admire the boats. It can be reached by bus (PF, PQ) from the city centre.QPorticciolo Marina Piccola, tel. (+39) 070 605 19 40, fax (+39) 070 37 14 85, [email protected]. Offi ce open 08:00 - 22:00.

ARRIVING BY CARCagliari is linked to major ferry ports Porto Torres (234km) and Olbia (274km) by dual carriageway roads SS131 and SS131dcn.Be sure to bring your driving licence, your car’s registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card, a refl ective vest and a warning triangle.The speed limit on dual carriageway roads is 110 km/h, on non-urban roads is 90 km/h, on Cagliari’s inner ring road (Asse Mediano) 70 km/h, in urban areas 50 km/h, unless otherwise indicated by road signs.It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. Headlights have to be always turned on when driving on non-urban roads. Drinking and driving is heavily fi ned. The legal limit is 0.5 g/l.Traffi c in the city is generally not too bad, even during rush hour. There are access restrictions for cars within city centre. Castello is off -limits during the night, while access to Marina, Stampace and Villanova is also restricted during the day.By far the easiest and most pleasant way to visit the city centre is on foot. If you do decide to use your car, white lines (very few of them left) indicate free parking. If the lines are blue look for a parking meter (parchimetro) and pay the price. Tickets should be displayed on your car windscreen. The cost depends on the parking zone you are in. Expect to pay €1/hr in the city centre. Be sure to have plenty of coins to hand as parking meters neither give change nor accept credit cards. Parking is free from 13:00 to 16:00, from 20:00 to 09:00, on Sundays and public holidays.

Many of the parking areas in the city centre are, unfortunately, presided over by unoffi cial ‘attendants’ wishing to receive a tip. Whilst these people can seem intimidating, they do not pose a real threat and the best you can do is ignore them.Disabled parking spaces are available at Metropark Cagliari and Regina Elena Parking Garage.

METROPARK CAGLIARILocated adjacent to the bus and railway stations, only a fi ve minute walk from piazza Yenne, the Metropark has 652 spaces including 13 bays for disabled drivers.QA-3/4, Piazza Matteotti, tel. 800 65 00 06, www.metropark.it. Open 24/7. Hourly rate €1, daily rate €10, monthly rate €80. AU

REGINA ELENA PARKING GARAGESituated a few minutes walk from the Saint Remy Rampart, the Regina Elena Parking Garage boasts 628 spaces and has a lift that can take you straight up the hill to Castello.QC-2, Viale Regina Elena, tel. (+39) 070 684 89 60/(+39) 348 211 03 88, [email protected], www.apcoa.it. Open 24/7. Hourly rate €1.20, daily rate €5. AU

BICYCLE RENTALBICINCITTÀA card is needed to rent a bicycle and can be purchased at the Town Hall. You must be 18 or older and have an ID card or passport. So far there are nine locations from where the bicycle can be picked up or dropped off (cicloposteggio), in via Sonnino, piazza della Repubblica, piazza Giovanni XXIII, piazza Matteotti, piazza Arsenale, via Is Mirrionis, largo Gennari, piazzale Cimitero Bonaria and at Marina Piccola.QB-3, Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale), piazza De Gasperi 2, 6th fl oor, tel. (+39) 070 677 83 81/800 45 63 00, [email protected], www.bicincitta.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Daily card €8, including €3 spending charge. Weekly card €8, including €3 spending charge. Monthly card €10, including €3 spending charge. Annual card €30, including €5 spending charge.

CAR RENTALAll you need to rent a car is a credit card, an ID card or passport and valid driving licence. Some companies do require a minimum age and minimum driving experience. If renting a car with children you must also rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their age and weight.

AVIS (AIRPORT)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 24 00 31, www.avisautonoleggio.it. Open 07:30 - 22:30.

AVIS (CITY)QC-4, Via Roma 16, tel. (+39) 070 67 49 03, www.avisautonoleggio.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

CTM POINT VIALE TRIESTEQViale Trieste 151, tel. 800 07 88 70/(+39) 070 209 12 10. Open 08:15 - 13:00, 14:30 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 08:15 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. U

METROCAGLIARIQE-3, Piazza della Repubblica, MRepubblica, tel. (+39) 070 474 12 11, [email protected], www.arst.sardegna.it/orari_e_autolinee/servizi_metroca.html. Ticket offi ce open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00. A self-service ticket machine is also available. U

TAXICagliari’s taxis are safe and generally reliable. Cheating is rare. Just make sure that the meter is running before you set off . The starting rate is €3 (€5 on Sundays and public holidays, €5.50 between 22:00 and 06:00) with a per kilometre rate of €0.90, which goes up to €1.30 at night time or when driving out of town. Few taxi drivers speak English, so it’s a good idea to write down the address, or to call someone who can explain.

RADIO TAXI 4 MORIQtel. (+39) 070 40 01 01, [email protected], www.cagliaritaxi.com. Operating 24/7.

RADIO TAXI ROSSOBLÙQtel. (+39) 070 66 55, fax (+39) 070 65 81 30, [email protected], www.radiotaxirossoblu.com. Operating 24/7.

DISABLED TRAVELLERSUnfortunately Italy is not yet very well-equipped in terms of facilities for the disabled, and Cagliari is no exception, especially given the unfavourable layout of the old town. Cobbled streets and steep steps certainly aren’t ideal for wheelchair users.There are disabled parking spaces for those who require them available at Metropark Cagliari and Regina Elena Parking Garage. Drivers with a disability sticker on their car can also use any of the city’s designated parking spaces for free.

HERTZ (AIRPORT)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 24 00 37, fax (+39) 070 24 08 55, www.hertz.it. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

HERTZ (CITY)QB-3, Piazza Matteotti 8, tel. (+39) 070 65 10 78, fax (+39) 070 66 34 57, www.hertz.it. Open 08:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30.

KARALISQCagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 754 21 07/(+39) 329 233 78 25, [email protected], www.karalisrent.it. Open 08:30 - 22:00.

LOCAUTOQCagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 24 20 42, fax (+39) 070 21 20 91, [email protected], www.locautorent.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

SARDINYAAlso off er scooter and motorbike rental.QCagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 24 04 44, [email protected], www.autonoleggiosardinya.it. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

VITEN GROUPQCagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 211 01 35, [email protected], www.vitengroup.it. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTPublic transportation network CTM provides a somewhat effi cient and fast service around the city and the suburbs. Buses run roughly from 04:00 to 00:50. Tickets can be bought from CTM Points, newspaper stands and tobacconists, marked with a big black and white T outside the shop. A 90-minute ticket (not valid on Metrocagliari) is €1.20 when purchased in advance or €1.70 on the bus. Have exact change ready when you buy the ticket on board. Other options include a 120-minute ticket (€2), a 1-day ticket (€3), a weekly ticket (€12) and a monthly ticket (€30, over 65 €14), all valid on Metrocagliari too. Tickets must be clipped once on board.Metrocagliari operates two surface lines from piazza della Repubblica to the Policlinico hospital and from San Gottardo to Settimo San Pietro. A further line from piazza della Repubblica to the train station is scheduled for completion in 2018. Trains run from 06:00 to 22:30. A 90-minute ticket is €1.20, a carnet of 12 90-minute tickets €12. Tickets must be stamped once inside the train. Metrocagliari tickets are not valid on buses.

CTM POINT PIAZZA MATTEOTTIQB-3, Piazza Matteotti, tel. 800 07 88 70, www.ctmcagliari.it. Open 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A self-service ticket machine operates 24/7. U

GUIDED TOURS

SARDINIA MAGIC EXPERIENCEA young and dynamic group of professionals organise guided tours of Cagliari and surrounding areas. You’ll set off on foot or on a small coach with one of the friendly tour guides, ready to go and explore the historical city centre or the beach or some of Cagliari’s underground sites. In fact, you can have your tailor-made tour and can venture out as far as Villasimius, Nora or Barumini, just to name a few. Tours in English, German, French and Spanish.QB-3, Piazza Yenne, tel. (+39) 328 276 11 64/(+39) 340 479 70 91, [email protected], www.sardiniamagicexperience.com. 15 Jun - 15 Oct open 09:30 - 13:00. 16 Oct - 14 Jun book in advance. Price on request. T

FACTS & FIGURES

A few things you might want to know about Sardinia.

Area: 24,090km2

Population: 1.664millionCapital city: Cagliari (pop. 154,000)Other cities: Sassari (pop. 128,700), Quartu Sant’Elena (70,700), Olbia (57,900), Alghero (43,500), Nuoro (37,100), Oristano (31,700)Highest point: Punta La Marmora, Gennargentu Massif (1,834m)Longest river: Tirso (150km)Largest lake: Omodeo Reservoir (29km2)


Arriving & BasicsArriving & Basics

ELECTRICITYElectricity in Italy is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins. If you are coming from the US, Canada, UK or Ireland you defi nitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries.

HEALTH & PHARMACIESCagliari has four public hospitals (ospedale in Italian) with emergency units. Although there can be long queues for minor problems, more serious cases are usually addressed professionally, swiftly and free of charge.Pharmacies (farmacia) are easily recognizable from the luminous red or green cross on the outside. Opening hours generally follow similar time patterns to shops. A few pharmacies are open at night, on Sundays and public holidays. These change on a weekly basis and the list with addresses and phone numbers is always on display on boards outside every single pharmacy in town as well as at www.ordfarma.it.

OSPEDALE BROTZUQPiazzale Ricchi 1, tel. (+39) 070 53 95 94.

OSPEDALE CIVILE SAN GIOVANNI DI DIOQB-1/2, Via Ospedale 46, tel. (+39) 070 66 32 37.

OSPEDALE MARINOQLungomare Poetto, tel. (+39) 070 609 43 05.

POLICLINICO UNIVERSITARIO DI MONSERRATOQSS554, 4.500km, Monserrato, MPoliclinico Università, tel. (+39) 070 51 09 65 50/(+39) 070 51 09 66 66, www.aoucagliari.it.

INTERNET & WI-FIFree WiFi Ca provides free Wi-Fi connectivity for the city of Cagliari. Start your device, connect, accept the terms of use and follow the instructions, which appear in both English and Italian.Inside of private establishments, free high-speed Wi-Fi is an increasingly common feature, particularly in hotels, restaurants, bars, and cafés. Simply request the network name and password from the waiter or the front desk.Cybercafés are less and less common on the ground, and likely to be pricey.

LANGUAGEEvery Sardinian speaks standard Italian. As it is a Romance language, speakers of Spanish and French will have a relatively easy time of understanding due to the frequency of cognates and similar grammatical structures. English is a mandatory part of school curriculum from elementary school up through high school. However, theoretical studies are a far cry from practical usage, and while most young Italians do have some English under their belts, they are often hesitant to use it. Do not count on middle-aged or older Italians being conversational in the language.Sardinia has a language of its own, Sardinian, which is categorised in many diff erent dialects and varieties. It is offi cially recognised as a Neo-Latin language. Nevertheless, in Cagliari speakers of the local version of Sardinian, known as Casteddaiu, are growing thinner. Younger generations normally understand it, but aren’t fl uent speakers, as opposed to their parents or grandparents.

LOCAL TIMEFrom March 29th to October 25th, Italy is in the Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. The rest of the year the clock ticks according to the Central European Time Zone, or GMT+1.

SYMBOL KEY

P Air conditioning T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities A Credit cards accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking R LAN connection

E Live music M Nearest Metro station

N No credit cards J Old town location

6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

D Sauna C Swimming pool

w Wellness W Wi-Fi

MOBILE PHONESThanks to the ongoing regulatory eff orts at the EU-level, mobile phone roaming rates are capped across all EU member states including Italy, which means that you can expect to pay only €0.24 per minute for outgoing calls, €0.07 per minute for incoming calls and €0.08 per SMS sent. Depending on your phone usage, it’s well worth considering buying a local SIM card that you simply use in your own phone. A prepaid account starts from around €20. To purchase one you need to show your ID card or passport.

MONEYItaly uses the euro (€) with banknotes in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, designed according to the country in which they were minted, come in denominations of €0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50, €1 and €2.ATMs, or bancomat, can be found all over the city, and while they may charge a small fee, they are the best way to take out cash - a crucial accessory in a country where many establishments and services do not accept credit cards. Despite this fondness for cash, credit cards are the most common method of payment in hotels and high-end shopping locations.You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks, open Mon - Fri 08:30 - 13:15 and 14:30 - 16:00.

POSTItaly’s posta prioritaria, the local equivalent of fi rst-class post, generally works well. It promises delivery within 24 hours domestically, three days for EU countries, and a week for the rest of the world.Stamps are sold at post offi ces and tobacconists (marked out front by a large T) only. Most post boxes are red with two slots, one marked per la città (for Cagliari), and the other marked per tutte le altre destinazioni (for all other destinations).For further postal information, phone the central information offi ce (80 31 60) or visit www.poste.it.

MAIN POST OFFICE (UFFICIO POSTALE CAGLIARI CENTRO)QA-3, Piazza del Carmine 27, tel. (+39) 070 605 41 64. Open 08:20 - 19:05, Sat 08:20 - 12:35. Closed Sun. U

RELIGIONLatin Rite Catholicism is by far the largest religious group in Italy. Cagliari is said to have been a diocese since as early as 70AD, although there are no written documents to prove it. There are a small mosque and an Evangelical Baptist church in the central Marina quarter. Other places of worship are to be found in greater Cagliari (Muslim, Christian Orthodox, Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-day Saints among others).

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Carabinieri 112

Police (Polizia) 113

Fire Brigade (Vigili del fuoco) 115

Emergency Medical Assistance(Emergenza sanitaria)

118

Coast Guard (Guardia costiera) 1530

Metropolitan Police (Polizia Municipale)

(+39) 070 53 35 33

HISTORY

6000-4000 BC Human activity begins in the area of Cagliari. Archaeological fi ndings suggest that the territory has been continuously inhabited ever since.

7th century BC Phoenician colonists found Karalis.

5th century BC Carthage takes control of Cagliari and Sardinia.

238 BC Following the fi rst Punic War, Sardinia becomes a Roman province. Cagliari soon becomes an important naval hub for fl eets engaged in wars in Northern Africa.

456 The Vandals occupy Cagliari. In 474 they take control of the whole of Sardinia.

534 Sardinia is annexed by the Byzantine Empire which, over the following centuries, loses control of the island, leaving it in a state of anarchy.

10th-11th century Sardinia is divided in four autonomous realms, called giudicati: Arborea, Gallura, Torres and Cagliari. The Genoese and Pisan maritime republics establish a military presence and commercial activities along the Sardinian coast.

1258 The Pisans defeat the giudicato of Cagliari, destroying the capital Santa Igia and occupying the hill of present-day Castello, founding Castel di Castro. They erect the fi rst ring of fortifi ed walls which also includes the area of Marina, facing the harbour.

1324 The arrival of the Aragonese marks the start of Spanish domination in Cagliari. Sardinia itself becomes a kingdom, governed by a viceroy, and its capital changes names to Càller.

1713 At the end of the War of the Spanish Succession, the Treaty of Utrecht assigns Sardinia to the Holy Roman Empire.

1720 Following the Treaty of The Hague, Victor Amadeus II, Duke of Savoy, is granted the title of King of Sardinia.

1793 The French fl eet lays siege to Cagliari, shelling the city and unsuccessfully attempting to land east of Poetto Beach.

1799-1814 During the Napoleonic Wars and the occupation of Piedmont, the Savoy family, who had been ousted from their court in Turin, resides in the Royal Palace in Cagliari.

1861 Sardinia becomes part of the unifi ed Italian state. Cagliari gradually opens up to industrial and commercial investments, its urban landscape begins to be modernized with new architectural styles and places such as via Roma, Saint Remy Rampart and the annexed Indoor Promenade.

1943 Cagliari suff ers heavy bombing by Allied air forces.

1948 Sardinia obtains the status of Autonomous Region and Cagliari is chosen as the seat of the local government and the regional assembly. In the following decades the city expands both inland and towards the sea, becoming what is now an urban continuum which includes Elmas, Assemini, Sestu, Monserrato, Selargius, Quartucciu and Quartu Sant’Elena, with a total population of around 350,000.

More info online atcagliari.inyourpocket.com


RestaurantsArriving & Basics

SAFETYIt is generally safe to walk around, both day and night, especially in the city centre and surrounding neighbourhoods. Although crime does exist in town, it is not gang-related and does not normally consist of mugging, assaults or random beatings. Having said all this, it is also worth pointing out that some precautions should be taken. It is common sense not to venture out too far away from the centre at night, on foot and in dodgy parts of town. If the situation gets particularly edgy, call 112 (Carabinieri) or 113 (Police) for help. If possible, fi nd someone who speaks Italian to help you make the call since there is no guarantee of fi nding an English speaker on the other end.

SMOKING & ALCOHOLSmoking is not allowed in public places, such as bars, pubs, clubs, restaurants, offi ces etc. There are however a few venues which have designated areas where smoking is permitted. Some hidden late-night pubs in the centre will turn a blind eye and bring an ashtray to your table in the early hours of the morning.According to Italian law, alcohol cannot be legally sold to people under 18.

TELEPHONE NUMBERSAll In Your Pocket guides in its European publishing empire list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Italian country code is (+39), but of course, you only have to use this if you’re dialing from abroad. If you’re already in Italy and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+39) prefi x and dial the number.

TIPPINGTipping is not usually expected, as most places include a service charge in the bill. However, tips are always welcome and can be left on the table or counter, or even handed over personally to the waiter/bartender.

TOURIST INFORMATIONINFOPOINT AEROPORTO ELMASQCagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 21 12 12 81. Open 09:00 - 21:00. U

INFOPOINT CAGLIARIQB-3, Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale), via Roma 145, tel. (+39) 338 649 84 98/(+39) 070 677 73 97, [email protected], www.cagliariturismo.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Oct - Mar 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. U

INFOPOINT MOLO SANITÀQB-4, Molo Sanità. Open for arrival of cruise ships.

X-MEMOn the ground fl oor of the high-tech MEM media library visitors will fi nd an Infopoint for all their cultural queries about the city and its surroundings.QVia Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 342 342 20 10, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30, 16:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. RUW

VISASSardinia is part of Italian national territory and therefore Schengen Agreement rules apply. However, all EU nationals need at least an ID card when boarding airplanes and ferries, while non-EU nationals will require a passport for a stay of up to three months. Depending on the country of origin, some foreigners might need a visa. Please enquire at Italian embassies or consulates for current bilateral agreements with your country.

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NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

There are a number of public holidays in Italy. On these days city councils, post offi ces and banks are closed. Some shops, restaurants, museums and attractions may also close or have reduced opening hours. When in doubt, call ahead!

Jan 1 New Year’s DayJan 6 EpiphanyApr 5 - 6, 2015 EasterApr 25 Liberation DayMay 1 Labour DayJun 2 Republic DayAug 15 AssumptionNov 1 All Souls’ DayDec 7 City Patron St Ambrose’s DayDec 8 Immaculate ConceptionDec 25 ChristmasDec 26 St Stephen’s Day

Sardinian cuisine lives up to the expectations that visitors may have when approaching an Italian restaurant. Despite its openness and general hospitality, the island remains tightly rooted to its social and cultural traditions and food is no exception. Sardinians are jealously bound to the old recipes, passed on generation after generation. Even if Sardinian cities are by all means modern and European, inland it remains essentially rural and represents a culinary goldmine. Restaurants in Cagliari have access to an official and unofficial market of fresh goods, coming from the countryside, the hills and mountains. Often city chefs rely on a thick network of small farmers, butchers, fishermen and hunters from whom they get the freshest vegetables, traditionally made cheeses, hams and sausages, but also game, such as wild boar, hare, deer and different types of birds.

Cagliari is also a port city and is therefore blessed by the constant infl ow of fresh seafood, both in markets and in restaurants. This tradition has been enhanced by top restaurants and chefs, which often blend the classic local dishes with more modern and sophisticated cooking techniques and tastes. The fi nal result is a mouth-watering, culinary experience which will both surprise and satisfy the even most demanding palates.

Cagliari’s restaurants generally serve ample portions throughout all the courses. The typical meal is made of hors d’oeuvres, consisting of different small plates, designed to whet your appetite, but are often so generous that they represent a whole meal. The first course is mostly based on pasta or rice, in a virtually countless variety of shapes, sizes and condiments. Second courses are usually meat or fish, and maybe a vegetable-based side dish. Therefore the concept itself of a main course doesn’t really exist in Sardinia, so forget those large plates with a mixture of rice, meat and vegetables, which are typical of Northern European cuisine. Having said this, when ordering food in a Cagliari restaurant do not in any way feel obliged to go for the whole shebang. You can browse through the menu and carefully select your options, especially when you have company to share your meal with.

Sardinians eat quite late, even for continental Italian standards. Lunch won’t be much before 13:00 and can go on until 16:00, depending where you are and how much you’re prepared to eat. Dinner is not before 20:00, but is often much later. Most restaurants open for both lunch and dinner and therefore close until about 19:00 so kitchen staff can have a few hours break in the afternoon. There are no rigid closing times so restaurants usually stay open until customers leave, which can be around midnight or later.

GLUTEN FREE MAN.GIA. SENZA GLUTINEThe fi rst gluten free restaurant-pizzeria in Italy, Man.Gia. off ers a delicious, healthy menu which maintains fl avour while putting your wellbeing fi rst. Just fi ve minutes’ walk from the town centre this welcoming restaurant is well worth the stroll. Diners will appreciate the family atmosphere while enjoying excellent service and, for many, a new experience in Italian cuisine. Man.Gia. boasts only the freshest and fi nest ingredients which are lovingly transformed into appetising dishes which make up the rigorously gluten free menu. It is the perfect blend of tradition and innovation in the kitchen, specialising in home-made gluten free pasta dishes, but also tasty salads, vegetables and fi sh dishes, and of course gluten free beer. Book in advance on weekends.QVia Mameli 196, tel. (+39) 070 204 19 40/(+39) 334 770 64 97, [email protected], www.mangiasenzaglutine.it. Open 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PTAUGBS

PRICE GUIDE

€ expect to have more than enough to eat and notspend more than €12 - 15

€€ a two course-meal and some table wine could cost you between €20 - 25

€€€ a full three-course meal won’t cost you less than €35

€€€€ you’re in a top-end restaurant and be prepared to spend over €50

12 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

ITALIAN LORD NELSONThis charming restaurant, in rigorous sea-faring style is just out of the city centre, but well worth a visit. It has a small dining room, where wood prevails, as well as portraits of the Admiral himself, of course. The restaurant off ers traditional Italian cuisine and specialises in fi sh dishes. The chef uses only the fi nest, freshest ingredients in his delicious creations and the extensive menu will satisfy even the most demanding palates. Impeccable service and polite staff complete your gourmet experience.QVia Tevere 2, tel. (+39) 070 29 10 50/(+39) 349 870 22 15. Open 13:00 - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00, Mon 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PTA

MARTINELLI’SThis cosy restaurant is conveniently located in the Marina district. It specializes in fi sh dishes and boasts only the best, freshest ingredients. Martinelli’s prides itself on its rich menu which blends traditional Italian cuisine with original combinations. Diners are spoilt for choice before such mouth-watering delights, but the house pièce de résistance is the starters tasting menu which will satisfy even the most demanding palate. The menu changes depending on the season and fresh fi sh available, there is a good selection of Sardinian wines and delicious home-made desserts to complete your meal. Book in advance at weekends.QC-3, Via Principe Amedeo 18, tel./fax (+39) 070 65 42 20, [email protected], www.martinellis.it. Open 12:30 - 14:00, 20:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA6G

VEGAN UNIVERSO VEGANOLocated just steps from Piazza Yenne and staff ed with the friendliest of health-food gurus (all of whom are either vegetarian or vegan), even non-vegans have ample incentive to step in for a bite. The Universo Vegano chain is rapidly gaining a following across Italy, promoting a sustainable lifestyle while serving up truly mouth-watering alternatives to mainstream fare. Most popular is the classic soy and veggie-based Vegan Burger, with potato croquettes on the side. Promotional combo options also make for a meal that is friendly both to fauna and to wallet.QB-3, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 14, tel. (+39) 340 675 56 20, [email protected], www.universovegano.it. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €. PJAW

THE FOOD HALL AT LA RINASCENTEYou only need to go up to fl oor 6 of la Rinascente to understand that you are in a unique location. Just the spectacular view is a good enough reason for booking a table.The ambience captures the mood of modern times, the atmosphere is sophisticated, but at the same time welcoming, and the great attention to detail will surely conquer the hearts of those who have an eye for excellence.The design is a creation of the London-based studio Lifschutz Davidson Sandilands, one of the most renowned

and esteemed studios worldwide. The Food Hall of la Rinascente will amaze you with its high-tech interior design and the absolute uniqueness of its format. For the fi rst time in Cagliari diff erent but complementary types of cuisines can dwell under the same roof. All characterised by the same common denominator: high quality and superior service. Here you can choose from an excellent Italian restaurant, a refi ned pan-Asian restaurant, a lounge bar with a fl air for glamour, a food market for gourmets as well as an excellent traditional Italian bar on the ground fl oor overlooking the sea.

BAMBOOAs many big cities in the world, Cagliari can now lay claim to an exclusive, pan-Asian restaurant serving the best of both fusion and traditional oriental cuisine. The menu is a crescendo of ideas coming from Thailand, China, Laos, Vietnam and sections dedicated to Dim sum typical of Canton, diff erent types of curry, soups and fi nger food. The aromas, spices and exotic fruits will enchant your palate with their unexpected fl avours. A Noodle Bar serves this oriental speciality in all its glorious variations. A wide selection of fi ne sake and some of the best Asian beer provide the perfect complement to fi ne food. The ambience conveys that typically oriental sense of hospitality. Customers, right from the fi rst moment, are greeted and accompanied on a journey towards discovering unprecedented fl avours and sensations.QB-3/4, Via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 604 53 81, [email protected], www.rinascente.it. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PJAU

BARCAEnjoying amazing food and drinks at la Rinascente is not confi ned to fl oor 6 but starts right on the ground fl oor in the new café that goes from the inside of the store right out to the street, with tables under the arcades of via Roma. The new café is the ideal place to have breakfast, lunch and aperitif. A large display counter lets customers view a vast range of products, amongst others the pizza al padellino made from sourdough and stone ground fl oor, homemade tarts, doughnuts and traditional handmade ice cream. They also off er organic, gluten free products made from specifi c types of fl our to fulfi l the changing needs of contemporary everyday life. QB-3/4, Via Roma 143, tel. +39 070 604 53 83, www.rinascente.it. Open 09:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PJAU

FOOD MARKETThe Food Market boasts 55m² fi lled with gastronomic delicacies that will add fl avour to your day-to-day life. Here you will fi nd pasta made following traditional methods, refi ned types of rice and a delicious selection of products with truffl e. And naturally, you will fi nd the best condiments: diff erent types of oil, vinegar, sauces and mustard as well as every kind of spice. There is also room for confectionery: chocolate from the most renowned makers, jams and preserves, honey and biscuits. And then the best blends of coff ee and many types of tea, the purest bottled water and a wide assortment of juices, soft drinks and craft beers. The


CafésRestaurants

CAFÉS & BISTROS ANTICO CAFFÈ 1855Looking out onto the Saint Remy Rampart, this cafe, bistro-bar off ers some of the fi nest pastries in town along with handmade ice cream, crêpes, cocktails, wines and traditional Mediterranean food. It all began in 1838 when Lorenzo Canepa emigrated from a little village near Genoa and opened a small meeting place in Cagliari, named after himself. In 1855 it changed name to Caff é Genovese and became the meeting point for artists and town bourgeois. Refurbished in 1998, it once again changed its name becoming Antico Caff è. It serves an array of fresh pastries, Italian espresso and cappuccino for breakfast. Before lunch and dinner it changes into an elegant bar where aperitifs and wines are served along a variety of delicious fi nger foods. Lunch and dinner is a culinary experience where tradition meets haute cuisine in the rich à la carte menu. Beloved by locals, businessmen and tourists, it is the ideal stylish meeting place for visitors who want to treat themselves to something special.QC-3, Piazza Costituzione 10-11, tel. (+39) 070 65 82 06, [email protected], www.anticocaffe1855.it. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PTJA6GBXW

CAFFÈ DELLE ARTIRight next to the Cathedral Museum, this establishment truly is a hidden gem, built on the old city walls. Apart from a pleasant indoor room, customers will have their breath taken by the outstanding view of the city and the gulf of Cagliari from the outdoor terrace, which is not visible from the street. Elegant, quiet and very reserved, the service friendly and quick, it is the ideal place for a coff ee break during your sightseeing tour of the old town, or indeed a romantic pre-dinner aperitif, usually served with complimentary fi nger food. Also a good option for a light lunch or an informal dinner.QC-3, Via del Fossario 1, tel. (+39) 392 396 39 58, [email protected]. Open 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Jan. PJEBX

CAFFÈ SVIZZEROOne of the oldest cafes in town, located behind the Town Hall and just minutes’ walk from the port and the train station. It has a terrace, which in the winter acts more as a conservatory, catching the morning and early afternoon sun. The indoors has been restored and it is elegant and refi ned, to say the least. With its brick ceilings and art nouveau decors, the cafe is perfect for your morning breakfast with coff ees and fresh pastries, all on display behind the glass counter. Afternoon teas are served with biscuits or mignon pastries. They also provide a selection of sandwiches, as well as salads and fi rst courses at lunch time.QB-3, Largo Carlo Felice 6, tel. (+39) 070 65 37 84. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PJAB

MAJOR PREEPThis establishment has become a fashionable place to go to in the centre of town. The barman Enzo is well known in town for his cocktails and attention to details. You can also

have a good dinner, with a selection of traditional Sardinian and Italian recipes, all served with care. On Tuesdays and Thursdays they proudly organise a generous aperitif, with a large selection of complimentary savoury goodies. There are approximately 200 cocktails and long drinks to choose from, while the state-of-the-art draught system is eco-friendly as it doesn’t need to use CO2.QB-3, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 307, tel. (+39) 392 578 85 31. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. PJAG

ICE-CREAM PARLOURS

CREMERIA RITZMany Cagliaritani say that Cremeria Ritz, in the heart of Stampace, serves the creamiest, the freshest, and in a word, the fi nest ice-cream in town. You be the judge, but we happen to agree that most of the fl avours here, particularly hazelnut, pistachio and stracciatella (chocolate chip) are to die for. And the super sapori di Sardegna (dark chocolate with almond and orange) is so sinful it should be made illegal. Cremeria Ritz also off ers a variety of coeliac-friendly gluten-free fl avours and special low calorie options for those watching their waist line.QB-3, Via Sassari 70, tel. (+39) 329 540 96 01, [email protected]. Open 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Dec - Feb. PTJG

IL GELATO ARESUThis small business couldn’t enjoy the benefi ts of terraces and tables, so it decided to aim at making the best quality ice-cream in town. The result is excellent. All ingredients are natural, fresh and mostly Sardinian. No added preservatives or dodgy powders, little sugar and there’s always a selection of dairy-free ice-creams. Flavours change according to the season and that’s when the owners’ exuberant imagination comes in: ricotta cheese and saff ron, wild fennel, cinnamon or other spices, just to name a few of their delicious ice-creams.QA-2, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 244, tel. (+39) 070 68 46 46, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. PJG

SA CARAPIGNAThis ice-cream parlour has been making freshly made products, while keeping adults and children alike happy for over thirty-fi ve years. It’s probably the local’s favourite and one of the most traditional establishments in town. Located in an upmarket, residential part of town, they specialise in fresh seasonal and local fruit. Over the years they have invented ice-creams based on Mediterranean fl avours such as myrtle or arbutus berries and even basil. Lavish take-away cakes and elaborate ice-cream “cocktails” are also available. A few yards away, the roof of a WWII bunker has been made into a pleasant garden and could be a good place to go and eat your ice-cream treat!QVia Monte Mixi 10, tel. (+39) 070 30 84 43. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 16:30 - 22:00. Closed Wed. PGBX

Italian regions are prominent with their very best produce, showcasing only products of the highest quality. All these can be appreciated during themed food tasting events and are the ideal gift when packaged in the refi ned gift boxes available to customers.QB-3/4, Via Roma 143, [email protected], www.rinascente.it. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJAU

POMOD’OROA restaurant that celebrates traditional delicacies from Romagna, a region in the north of Italy, known around the world for its culinary tradition. Particular attention is

paid to the types of fl our, stone ground and organic, used to make fresh pasta that becomes the main ingredient of the most mouth-watering dishes. Special types of fl our and sourdough are used for pizzas and Italian fl atbread (piadina) served in endless diff erent ways, from the most traditional to the most exotic, to make up that special evening meal. The extensive wine list includes a selection of wines from Romagna and other Italian regions as well as exclusive ‘bubblies’. The food will be mainly served on large platters for 2, 4 or more people to share and enjoy together. The ideal restaurant to savour delicious food surrounded by a spectacular view of the Gulf of Cagliari.QB-3/4, Via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 604 53 80, [email protected], www.rinascente.it. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PJAU

SESTO LOUNGE BARAn open plan space that fuses together style and design; the perfect setting for indulging in some ‘me time’. The ideal place for you and your friends to savour a delicious aperitif and tasty nibbles prepared by the two restaurants or even enjoy after dinner drinks. But the Lounge Bar also welcomes guests that are waiting for their tables, inviting them to browse the labels on the many bottles of wine displayed along the spectacular wine wall. Already set to become the place to go and a real meeting point for the city.QB-3/4, Via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 604 53 82, [email protected], www.rinascente.it. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJAU

FAST FOOD

LE PATATE & CO.This charming innovative take away restaurant is located in the heart of the Marina district in a historic building on the side of the San Sepolcro church. There are some tables and chairs outside for those who want to eat their purchases while taking in the view but there is no table service. Le Patate & Co. off ers a vast menu specialising in fried fi sh and chips, but freshly prepared and fried in olive oil. You will be spoilt for choice! There are also international beers and Sardinian wines to accompany your feast.QC-3, Scalette San Sepolcro 1, tel. (+39) 347 137 78 68, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 24:00. €. JGB


SightseeingNightlife

BARS CAFFÈ LIBARIUMCaff è Libarium is composed of a bar area and two cosy internal rooms, each decorated in a style that maintains the old characteristics of the ancient building that hosts it, while the outside terrace is another story all together. During the hot summer nights you get to enjoy a spectacular panorama of the city, while sipping on your cocktail and chatting with your friends. With white sofas, chairs and pillows laid on the old stairs of one of the main squares of Castello, this enchanting terrace will defi nitely take your breath away. Famous for the Thursday nights happy-hour and abundant aperitifs, stop by for a drink but if you’re in no need for refreshments, do at least take a peek at the magnifi cent views from up top of the old town below and whole harbour.QC-2, Via Santa Croce 33-35, tel. (+39) 346 522 02 12, [email protected], www.caffelibarium.com. Open 07:30 - 02:00. Closed Mon. PJAGB

MOJITOThis lively bar has seating inside in a welcoming lounge and a pretty terrace outside. However, on busy nights the crowds mingle outside on the steps creating a vibrant atmosphere. Early in the evening you can enjoy an relaxing aperitif with fi nger food while later on try the house speciality Mojito, of course!QC-2, Scalette Santa Chiara 25, tel. (+39) 070 68 44 39, [email protected]. Open 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PJAGBX

VINVOGLIO WINE JAZZ CLUBOnce you’ve climbed all the way up to Castello, you’ll be surprised to come across this quite small two-room establishment. It’s a wine bar that mainly serves Sardinian wines, without being afraid to go international, with bottles from Chile, California or Australia, to name a few. Sardinian hams and cheeses are devised to go along with your goblet, but you should also try a slice of pecorino cheese with a spread of wine jelly (a sort of home-made grape jam). This said, the highlight of this venue is live jazz at least twice a week, but dates vary a lot, though the sessions start invariably around 21:00, defi nitely early for Cagliari standards. Anyhow, you’re better off giving Antonio, the manager, a call to double-check.QC-3, Via Lamarmora 45, tel. (+39) 328 359 28 77, [email protected]. Open 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. PJEGW

CLUBS RITUALOriginally a stable, then a powder factory for ammunition during the Pisan period and now a very lively nightlife disco that remains open till the wee hours of the morning. Walking into Ritual is like taking a journey back in time. This magnifi cent two level cave-like night bar has become the host to some of the best DJs around and to some

incredible parties. Open all year long, seven days a week from early mornings till early mornings! On Thursday, you can stop by and enjoy a glass of wine or a cocktail, nibble on some fi nger food and delight yourself with some live music in a candlelight atmosphere. On Fridays and Saturdays the party starts late at night, turning the venue into the centre of Cagliari’s underground nightlife, both literally and fi guratively, for those who want to enjoy a good DJ set and good quality house music.QC-3, Via Università 33, tel. (+39) 070 756 84 88. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. PJEGB

PUBS IL BIRRIFICIO DI CAGLIARIThis place is well worth the drive or the bus ride (by route 15) to get there. Somewhere in between a pub and a restaurant, its main feature are without a hint of a doubt its fantastic beers, which are all brewed in situ with as much care as a surgeon on a patient! The brewing machinery is visible from the main lounge, defi nitely setting an appropriate atmosphere. There’s a lager, a stout, a bitter and weiss beer which are named after Cagliari’s historical quarters. There are also seasonal beers, such as Poetto, which is a Belgian style blanche beer, light and breezy, perfect for the summer. Very good pub food, with classics such as beef stew, roast pork with bacon and potatoes or chicken curry. Vegetarian- and coeliac-friendly options are available, as well as a kids menu.QVia Newton 24, tel. (+39) 070 456 05 69, [email protected], www.ilbirrificiodicagliari.com. Open 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PTALG

GAY CAGLIARI

Cagliari is overall a tolerant city, its population is curious and welcomes changes. It can therefore be comfortably defi ned as gay tolerant. However, don’t imagine a Mediterranean version of London or San Francisco. It certainly isn’t. And although cagliaritani have grown accustomed to the presence of homosexuals as a reality of everyday professional and social life, it probably isn’t ready yet for the most open displays of aff ection or eccentricity.

Socially speaking, there is no proper gay area or gay club in Cagliari, as you might fi nd in many other cities. There are a number of gay-friendly bars, restaurants, hotels and B&Bs, especially around piazza Yenne.

The gay scene is nevertheless alive and kicking. There is a very active cultural organisation called ARC (Associazione Culturale Gay Lesbica Bisessuale Transgender Cagliari, www.associazionearc.eu), which is on the forefront of gay rights and anti-discrimination campaigns.

CATHEDRAL MUSEUM (MUSEO DEL DUOMO)The museum hosts the Treasure of the Cathedral, which had long remained under lock and key. Among the most interesting works on display, a 15th century triptych, known as the Triptych of Clement VII, allegedly by Flemish painter Rogier Van der Weyden. Rich 16th, 17th and 18th liturgical vestments can be seen, as well the much older ones which belonged to Saint Augustine. On the fi rst of the three fl oors of the museum there is a small but precious collection of silver chalices, crosses and shrines, some of which date back as far as the 14th century. At the moment, information in the museum is only in Italian and so are the guided tours.QC-2, Via del Fossario 5, tel. (+39) 070 68 02 44/(+39) 328 268 77 31, [email protected], www.museoduomodicagliari.it. Open 16:30 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission €4, 8-12 and over 65 €2.50. U8 free.

CATHEDRAL OF SAINT MARY OF THE ASSUMPTION (CATTEDRALE DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA)The church of St Mary became the city’s cathedral in the 13th century. Few traces of the medieval structure remain: the steeple, the two Romanesque side doors and the so-called Pisan Chapel, dedicated to the Sacred Heart. As it is today, the cathedral has a latin-cross plan, with a transept and three naves. During the 17th century, the building underwent its fi rst major reconstruction work. The inside and the façade were changed, following the Baroque fashion of the time. It was not until the 1930s that the façade was yet again restyled, according to a Neo-Romanesque pattern. The Sanctuary of the Martyrs hosted in the crypt is home to 179 niches containing relics of Cagliari’s martyrs.QC-2, Piazza Palazzo 4, tel. (+39) 070 66 38 37, [email protected], www.duomodicagliari.it. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30. Jun - Aug 08:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

ELEPHANT TOWER (TORRE DELL’ELEFANTE)This mighty tower was built by architect Giovanni Capula in 1307 on the Castello hill, facing the sea. Along with the St Pancras and Eagle towers, it was intended to guard one of the main entrances to Castello and to bolster the city walls, which were being built in the same period. Elephant Tower occupied the most south-western point of the castle. Its dominant position is nowadays less apparent due to a number of civilian and military buildings which surround it, built in the 17th and 18th centuries. Similarly to the St Pancras Tower, it is made from local limestone and its wooden fl oors divide it in four levels. During the Aragonese domination, a wall on the northern side was built, allowing the tower to be used for storage and as a prison. On the southern wall of the tower a small statue of an elephant is still visible, hence the name of the site, as well as the original Pisan families’ coats of arms.QC-3, Via Santa Croce ang. via Università, tel. (+39) 070 409 23 06, [email protected], www.beniculturalicagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission €3, conc. €2. U7 not allowed for safety reasons.

CASTELLOCastello in Sardinian is called Castedd’e susu, which means ‘upper castle’, because this is what it was and, from an architectural point of view, still is.Castello is perched on the top of a white rock which looks directly onto the gulf of Cagliari. The site was used in the remote past, though probably not urbanised: the Punic and Roman cisterns built to collect water and the Roman amphitheatre carved out of one of its slopes are just two examples.It wasn’t until the 13th century, when the Pisans began creating their commercial outposts in Sardinia, that the strategic importance of Castello became apparent. They decided to take control of the hill and soon blocked access to it, fortifying the rock with heavy walls and three large towers, two of which are still in pristine condition and are among the main attactions Cagliari has to off er. They also built the Cathedral.When the Aragonese and then the Spanish took over power in Sardinia (14th-18th century), they kept Cagliari as their capital. They improved and enlarged the walls of the castle, modernising the defensive system. Sardinians were eff ectively cut out from power and important positions, and were only allowed to have humble jobs during daytime. When the day drew to an end, a horn was the signal for the local population to leave the castle or else be even thrown down from the walls.The Savoy family took power at the beginning of the 18th century and also made many improvements, but the most radical changes occurred in the 19th century, when Cagliari, and therefore Castello, stopped being a military fortress. Instead of mighty defensive bastions, the new promenades and terraces (e.g. Saint Remy Rampart and Buon Cammino) became the places where the cagliaritani could mingle and socialise.Although the richer families have left, and the population has decreased over the years, Castello is living a new phase, buildings are being restored, there are new bars and restaurants; art galleries and shops are being opened and it is overall coming back to life, after generations of romantic but decadent neglect.

BASILICA OF THE HOLY CROSS (BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE)The basilica of the Holy Cross was built in the 16th century along a section of the city walls which was given the same name, Holy Cross Rampart (Bastione di Santa Croce). Prior to its construction, on the same ground was the synagogue. After the expulsion of the Jews from all territories under the Spanish Crown in 1492, the temple was demolished and replaced by the basilica. Santa Croce was assigned to the Jesuits, until 1773, when the Society of Jesus was suppressed. The basilica was then assigned to the knightly Order of Saints Maurice and Lazarus. On Sunday mornings it’s the weekly appointment for traditional Catholics, who attend Latin mass.QC-2, Via Corte d’Appello 44, tel. (+39) 070 235 52 84, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Admission free.


SightseeingSightseeing

INDOOR PROMENADE (PASSEGGIATA COPERTA)The Indoor Promenade is contemporary to the Saint Remy Rampart and it is in fact built within its structure. Featuring shiny marble fl oors, high ceilings, supported by grand arches and pillars, it has been used as a location for exhibitions since as early as the 1930s and it was then heavily damaged by WWII air-raids. It was brought back to its original aspect, further refurbished in the 1980s and again in the 2000s. It is enshrined within the old city fortifi ed walls, parts of which are currently visible inside. This fi ne venue is managed and used by the city authorities to host temporary exhibitions and installations, as well as meetings and conferences.QC-3, Piazza Costituzione, tel. (+39) 347 000 39 88, [email protected]. Closed for repairs.

OLD TOWN HALL (ANTICO PALAZZO DI CITTÀ)The Old Town Hall probably dates back to as early as the 14th century. It was destined to host the assemblies of the city representatives and then the Town Hall, before the new one was built. Its present-day aspect is an example of 18th century Piedmontese-Baroque. Above the entrance door, an inscription in memory of the visit by Emperor Charles V and above that, Cagliari’s coat of arms. It then became the city’s conservatoire and it’s now a cultural space used by the city council to host exhibitions.QC-2, Piazza Palazzo 6, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 82, [email protected], www.museicivicicagliari.it. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. 15 Jun - 14 Sep 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, conc. €2.50. Joint saver ticket for the Old Town Hall, the City Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Siamese Art €8, conc. €4. U6 and over 65 free. U

ROYAL PALACE (PALAZZO REGIO)The Royal Palace has existed since the 14th century as the residence of Aragonese, Spanish and then Savoy Viceroys. The present-day setting of the building is the result of major restoration works by Savoy military engineers in the 18th century. Between 1779 and 1815, it became the offi cial residence of the Savoy court, during their exile from Turin due to the French occupation of Piedmont. When Cagliari ceased to be the offi cial capital of the Kingdom, the Palace lost its institutional role and came under the Provincial authority, which it still is. The Palace can be visited and although there aren’t any guided tours as such,

with the aid of audio-visual equipment (for the moment only in Italian), it is possible to wonder through the 18th century halls, adorned with fi ne painting and frescoes.QC-2, Piazza Palazzo 1, tel. (+39) 070 409 20 00. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. U

SAINT REMY RAMPART (BASTIONE SAINT REMY)Probably the most noticeable monument in Cagliari. It was built in white limestone at the end of the 19th century, after Cagliari ceased to be a military fortress and gradually its defensive walls were pulled down. It is the result of three fortifi ed bastions which were then joined together. From piazza Costituzione, the fi rst thing you see is a mighty double staircase surmounted by a large arch. Once you reach the top, you are met by a vast terrace with benches and palm trees. The view is breath-taking. You don’t have to walk up all the steps and the lazy visitor can take the lift (open 24/7, free of charge), which is about 100m further up along viale Regina Elena. Don’t miss the romantic sunset, before you walk down to the Marina quarter for dinner.QC-3, Piazza Costituzione. Open 24/7. Terrace closed for repairs. Admission free.

ST PANCRAS TOWER (TORRE DI SAN PANCRAZIO)The tower was built in 1305 on the highest peak of what is now known as Castello. The construction was commissioned to Sardinian architect Giovanni Capula and it was intended to play a pivotal role in the city’s new defensive system, protecting the northern entrance of Castello. The tower is made of white limestone and is open on the side facing piazza Indipendenza. During the Aragonese and then Spanish domination, the fourth wall of the tower was completed, allowing it to be used as a fortifi ed warehouse and lodgings for civil servants. Until the end of the 19th century, the tower was used as a jail. At the beginning of the 20th century, the tower underwent major restoration work and was brought back to its original 3-wall shape.QC-2, Piazza Indipendenza, tel. (+39) 070 409 23 06, [email protected], www.beniculturalicagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission €3, conc. €2. U7 not allowed for safety reasons.

THE GHETTO (CENTRO COMUNALE D’ARTE E CULTURA IL GHETTO)This culture and arts centre takes its name from the area in which it’s located: the old Jewish quarter within the walls of Castello. The area only actually acquired the nickname ‘the Ghetto’ in the last century, when the castle’s fortifi cations ceased their military function and, in their dereliction, came to serve as makeshift living space for some of the city’s poorest citizens. Much of the area was restored in the 1990s and the arts centre was opened in 2000. It hosts various exhibitions throughout the year, so there is always something new and interesting to see.QC-2, Via Santa Croce 18, tel. (+39) 070 640 21 15, [email protected], www.camuweb.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special exhibitions may charge an admission fee. U

UNIVERSITY AND OLD COLLEGE (PALAZZO DELL’UNIVERSITÀ ED EX SEMINARIO)The University of Cagliari was offi cially founded at the beginning of the 17th century, but it had to wait until 1770 to have its own monumental building. Together with the annexed seminar, it was built on a part of the old walls, just yards away from the Elephant Tower and present-day Saint Remy Rampart. The two buildings are adjacent, structured on three levels and each has its own entrance: one leads to the administrative offi ces of the rectorate and the other to the University Library. Both have inner courtyards and it’s usually possible to reach the back and have a small walk on part of the old city walls, with inspiring views of the harbour and the gulf of Cagliari. The ground fl oor of the Old College also hosts the Luigi Piloni Collection (Collezione Sarda Luigi Piloni, book visit in advance), consisting of seven rooms where ancient maps and prints, Sardinian costumes and artefacts, as well as local religious art and jewellery, are on display.QC-3, Via Università 40, tel. (+39) 070 675 24 28/(+39) 070 675 24 24, [email protected], www.unica.it. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. U

CITADEL OF MUSEUMS (CITTADELLA DEI MUSEI)The Citadel of Museums is situated just north of Castello, and since the major works carried out by military architects Rocco Cappellino and the Palearo brothers in the 16th century, it is included within perimeter of the fortifi cation system of the city, subsequently extended and improved by the Savoys during the 18th century. It was principally used as an arsenal and foundry, as well as a jail and subsequently barracks. Heavily damaged in WWII, it was later abandoned and only in the 1960s it was destined to host a number of museums and areas for temporary exhibitions. Visitors can enjoy a cafe with a pleasant terrace and a somewhat limited selection of snacks. The area also has amazing views of the gulf of Cagliari.

MUSEUM OF SIAMESE ART (MUSEO D’ARTE SIAMESE STEFANO CARDU)The exhibits on display are part of Stefano Cardu’s collection of Siamese and Oriental art, which he gathered during the long period he spent in present-day Thailand. When he returned to Cagliari, he donated the collection to the city. It includes precious pottery; various objects made of ivory, among which some Japanese miniature statues representing social stereotypes and dragons; silver jewellery; weapons, such as daggers, swords and spears; paintings and furniture. Currently on display is also a private collection of Burmese art, especially wood statues.QC-1, Piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 65 18 88, [email protected], www.museicivicicagliari.it. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. 15 Jun - 14 Sep 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €2, conc. €1. Joint saver ticket for the Museum of Siamese Art, the Old Town Hall and the City Gallery of Modern Art €8, conc. €4. U6 and over 65 free. U

NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE)The museum is housed within the old walls of the Royal Arsenal (Regio Arsenale). The exhibits on display give a fascinating outlook on Sardinia’s ancient history. It displays archaeological fi nds dating as far back as the Pre-Nuragic era (6000 BC) and the Nuragic period, with a large number of small bronze statues representing, amongst others, warriors, divinities, animals, men and women. Also the later phases of the Phoenician and Punic colonization in Sardinia, between 8th and 3rd centuries BC are well represented. In 2014 the Giants of Mont’e Prama were moved here. These massive limestone sculptures (10th-8th century BC) originally discovered in 1974, were unearthed along the Sinis peninsula and will remain on display in Cagliari before fi nally being transferred to the City Museum of Cabras. Four of the statues will remain on permanent display in Cagliari.QC-1, Piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 60 51 82 45, [email protected], www.archeocaor.beniculturali.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8, 18-25 €4, U18 free. First Sunday of the month admission free. Joint saver ticket for the National Archaeological Museum and the National Gallery €10, conc. €5. U

NATIONAL GALLERY (PINACOTECA NAZIONALE)A contemporary building hosts the National Gallery. In its three fl oors, parts of the old Spanish and Savoy city walls have been integrated with the rooms where the pictures are on display. Most of the works of the museum were gathered during the 19th century, when the new-born Italian kingdom claimed ownership over Church property. Another important part of the collection is made of the pictures which used to be held at the no longer existing St Francis’s church, many dating as far back as the 14th century. Also on display, works by Sardinian artist Pietro Cavaro, active between 1508 and 1538.QC-1, Piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 60 51 82 45/(+39) 070 66 24 96, [email protected], www.pinacoteca.cagliari.beniculturali.it. Open 09:00 - 19:15. Closed Mon. Admission €5, 18-25 €2.50, U18 free. First Sunday of the month admission free. Joint saver ticket for the National Gallery and the National Archaeological Museum €10, conc. €5. U

WAX ANATOMICAL MODELS MUSEUM (MUSEO DELLE CERE ANATOMICHE CLEMENTE SUSINI)It was 1801 when Francesco Boi, professor of human anatomy at the University of Cagliari, was granted the permission to take a sabbatical period in mainland Italy in order to learn about the latest discoveries in surgery. Based on Boi’s dissections, artist Clemente Susini created his wax models, which are still today a very realistic representation of parts of the human body. The collection got to Cagliari after it was bought by King Carlo Felice, who wanted to have it on display in his palace as a marvel of those times.QC-1, Piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 675 76 27. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.50, conc. €0.50.

National Archaeological Museum © MIBACT


SightseeingSightseeing

MARINAMarina was already urbanised more than two thousand years ago and its life has always been centred around the harbour.It was abandoned for centuries during the Middle Ages, but in the the 13th century the Pisans set up their commercial activities in the area then called Lapola, between the waterfront and Castello, they built walls around it and the quarter has fl ourished ever since.When the defensive walls which surrounded the Marina were pulled down in the 19th century, the quarter opened up to the rest of the city and the wide streets that mark its borders are still important features: via Roma, that runs along the port, with its arcades, cafes and shops; viale Regina Margherita, and its exclusive restaurants, leading up to Saint Remy Rampart; largo Carlo Felice, with its banks and shops, is still one of the city’s main arteries.However, to get the feel of the Marina, you must venture into the narrow streets, just behind via Roma, and hear the voices of its multi-ethnic population talking from window to window, the delicious smells coming from the kitchens of its many restaurants and just walk around.

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE (CHIESA DI SAN SEPOLCRO)Although it is not possible to provide an exact date for its founding, the history of the church is intertwined with that of the knightly Order of the Holy Sepulchre, which established their headquarters here. The Order was active in Cagliari as early as the 16th century and its main mission was to provide burial to the poor. The main entrance to the church is on its right-hand side, which gives onto the square. The church has a single nave with side chapels. The altar in Our Lady of Mercy Chapel is actually one of the fi nest examples of the Baroque style in Cagliari. Thanks to restoration works in the 1980s, the sepulchral crypt is also open to visitors.QC-3, Piazza San Sepolcro, tel. (+39) 070 66 37 24. Open 09:30 - 12:00, 16:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

ST AUGUSTINE’S CHURCH (CHIESA DI SANT’AGOSTINO)The building of this church began in 1577 and the project is by Giorgio Palearo, famous at the time for being, along with his brother Jacopo, one of the most infl uential military architects in Europe. At the time the two were indeed in Cagliari, working at the new fortifi cations of the city and they were asked by Philip II of Spain himself to build a church dedicated to Saint Augustine. This was to partly compensate the demolition of the old Augustine convent, which had been necessary to allow the construction of the new city walls. It is one the very few Renaissance style buildings in Sardinia and has a Greek-cross plan, barrel vaults and a semi-spherical cupola. Entry to the church is both through the front portal as well as from the sacristy, along largo Carlo Felice.QB-3, Via Baylle, tel. (+39) 070 66 42 36. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Admission free. U

ST EULALIA’S CHURCH, ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE AND TREASURE MUSEUM (CHIESA DI SANT’EULALIA, AREA ARCHEOLOGICA E MUSEO DEL TESORO)The parish church of St Eulalia was built by the Aragonese towards the end of the 14th century and named after the patron saint of Barcelona. The building was severely damaged during WWII bombings. Restoration works have brought back the inside to its Aragonese-Gothic style.During the consolidation of the foundations of the building, archaeologists unveiled the remains of water cisterns dating back to the pre-Roman period, paved roads, a house and what was possibly a temple. The visit to the underground site gives an idea of how the various civilizations used the site for over 2,000 years, with the knowledgeable museum guides bringing the visitors deep down into the roots of the city. For those of you who don’t speak Italian, captions are available in English, Spanish and French. Upstairs is the Treasure Museum, with an interesting collection of church paraments, chalices and statues.QC-4, Vico del Collegio 2, tel. (+39) 070 66 37 24, [email protected]. Church open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:30. Nov - Mar 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:30. Museum open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Archaeological site closed for repairs. Admission to the church free. Admission to the museum €2, conc. €1. U

VIA ROMACagliari’s main street runs along the sea-front, opposite the harbour. After the demolition of the old walls which protected the Marina quarter from raids by enemy fl eets, via Roma gradually became an elegant promenade with cafés, shops and a high-end department store, under the arcades. At one end, the street features the contemporary building of the Regional Parliament, while at the other end, opposite the train and bus stations, is the Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale, B-3). The building was inaugurated in 1907 and severely damaged during the WWII. It is inspired by Catalan-Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. It follows the patterns of the arcades along via Roma and the limestone façade has seven arches and two central 38m high octagonal turrets. On the front gate, a bronze eagle holds the coat of arms of Cagliari. A walk along via Roma is a must if you want to get a general idea of what Cagliari can be as a whole. It’s not unusual to see old men in suits discussing the latest political scandal, teenagers strolling along and holding hands, sailors and dock workers sitting next to regional government functionaries, or even the mayor walking by on his way to his offi ce.QA-2/3/B-3/4/C-4.

STAMPACEThe name Stampace probably originates from the old greeting stai in pace (stay in peace). Stampace is, among the four historical quarters of Cagliari, probably the one which still bears the most testimonies of the ancient civilizations which lived in the area since the Punic and then Roman colonisations.

Yenne is also an important cross-roads, ideally placed between Marina and Stampace, just below the Elephant Tower, at the edge of Castello. Piazza Yenne is where the state road 131 from Cagliari to Sassari used to start from, and the statue at the center of the roundabout represents King Carlo Felice, who uses his left arm to point the way. Among Sardinians, the road 131 is still nowadays called la Carlo Felice!QB/C-3.

ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE (ANFITEATRO ROMANO)Probably the most important building of the Roman period still visible in Sardinia. It’s almost entirely carved in the sloping rock, using the natural valley that goes down from Buon Cammino. It was built between the 1st and 2nd century AD and it could originally seat up to 10,000 spectators. The terraces were divided into three diff erent orders, depending on the spectators’ social class. The shows included fi ghts between gladiators, or against wild beasts, which were kept in cages, at the sides of the arena, and still visible today. The walk along Buon Cammino to get there is magnifi cent and off ers beautiful views. A downhill stroll takes you back to piazza Yenne.QB-1, Via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 19, tel. (+39) 340 088 83 34/(+39) 070 65 29 56, [email protected], www.anfiteatroromano.it. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. May - Sep open Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Entrance only with guide. Admission €5, conc. €3.50. U6 free. U

After the Pisan conquest, in the 13th century, Stampace was a village mainly lived by artisans, wrapped inside its no-longer existing walls, of which the only remnant is the Buttress Gate (Porta dello Sperone, B-2), at the top of via Azuni. Although Stampace suff ered badly during the WWII bombings and has now become largely multi-ethnic, it still preserves its traditional character. A street festival called Cuccurus Cottus (the old nickname for the inhabitants of Stampace, which in Sardinian means ‘hot heads’) is held every August, when the quarter is brought back to life by the thousands of people that gather.Nightlife in Stampace is defi nitely Cagliari’s liveliest, with its dozens of bars and restaurants, both north and south of the main street, corso Vittorio Emanuele II (A-2/B-2/3). Don’t miss it!

BOTANICAL GARDEN (ORTO BOTANICO)If you’re in need of some shade after having walked about Cagliari’s city centre on a warm sunny morning, or indeed if you’re a lover of plants, in particular special Mediterranean varieties, tropical or succulent species, then it’s worth checking out the University of Cagliari’s Botanical Garden, inaugurated in 1866. It’s about 5 hectares big and features some 600 trees and 1,000 succulent plants. Located at the bottom of the Roman Amphitheatre (although there is no thoroughfare between these two places), the gardens also proudly include ancient Phoenician and Roman cisterns, now fertile breeding zones for water lilies and papyrus.QB-1/2, Via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 9-11, tel. (+39) 070 675 35 22, [email protected], www.ccb-sardegna.it/virtual/virtualorto.html. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Oct - Mar 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission €4. Guided tour €6. U6 and over 65 free.

HOUSE OF TIGELLIUS (VILLA DI TIGELLIO)This archaeological site was named after the famous poet and bard, Tigellius, a contemporary of emperor Augustus, well known for his wealthy and extravagant life style, who allegedly resided here in a luxurious villa. In fact, a more accurate study of the area has revealed a series of different houses in what probably used to be a residential area in ancient Karalis, existing as early as the 1st century BC. A visit to the site can give visitors the idea of what a Roman house used to be like. Visibile today are the impluvia, i.e. the area of the house where rainwater was harvested, the small bedrooms, as well as fragments of frescoes and mosaic floors.QA-2, Via Carbonazzi, tel. (+39) 070 409 23 06, [email protected], www.beniculturalicagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission €3, conc. €2. U

PIAZZA YENNEIt’s the main meeting point for locals, especially during the hot summer nights. People gather here to have a chat before moving up to Castello or to some club out of town; to sit in the terraces of the many cafes and bars, sipping cocktails or Sardinian beer; or simply, to have a walk while slurping a large homemade ice-cream. Piazza


SightseeingSightseeing ST ANNE’S CHURCH (CHIESA DI SANT’ANNA)The foundation stone of the parish church of St Anne, based on architect Giuseppe Viana’s initial project, was laid in 1785, but the building wasn’t inaugurated until 1818 and then fi nished in the 1930s. It was severely damaged during WWII and didn’t re-open until 1951. The structure of the church is a typical example of Baroque architecture, although the style’s characteristic decorations weren’t restored after the latest reparation works. Its twin steeples are a benchmark in Stampace’s skyline and the church is an important religious and social point of reference for Cagliari’s old town.QB-2, Via Azuni, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 63. Open 07:30 - 10:30, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

ST MICHAEL’S CHURCH (CHIESA DI SAN MICHELE)The church was consecrated in 1738, although it’s construction had begun much earlier, and had been possible thanks to a large donation by politician and lawyer Francesco Angelo Dessì, who died in 1674. He had been very close to the Society of Jesus, which used to have a novitiate building on the site of the present-day church, which still belongs to the Jesuits. The building is indeed the typical Jesuit church as regards architecture and is probably the fi nest example of Baroque art in Cagliari. It is ideally placed for a quick visit, just few minutes’ walk away from piazza Yenne. Guided tours also in English.QB-2, Via Ospedale, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 26. Open 08:00 - 11:00, 19:00 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Admission free.

ST RESTITUTA’S CRYPT (CRIPTA DI SANTA RESTITUTA)This hypogeal space was believed to have been the site of Saint Restituta’s martyrdom. The crypt was long forgotten and, during the 17th century excavations, ancient relics were found, leading to a partial restoration of the site and its embellishment with altars and statues. During the WWII bombings, the relics were transferred to neighbouring St Anne’s Church, while the crypt was used as an air-raid shelter.QB-2, Via Sant’Efi sio 14, tel. (+39) 070 409 23 06, [email protected], www.beniculturalicagliari.it. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.

VILLANOVAVillanova (in Sardinian Bidda Noa, which means ‘New Town’) is probably the most recent of the four historical quarters in Cagliari, although 13th century documents prove its existence. Traditionally, its main activity was agriculture. For some centuries, it had walls built around it, which used to follow what is now one of Cagliari’s main shopping streets, via Garibaldi, and they are no longer visible. The old part of the quarter gives the visitor the impression of being in a small village. It mainly lives along via San Giovanni, the churches of St James and St Dominic, and the many narrow streets and alleyways.

Until only a decade ago, it was not unusual to see its inhabitants grilling fresh fi sh outdoors, especially on Sunday mornings.Even though in the recent years, Villanova has lost some of its more socially folkloristic aspects, the quarter has improved a lot and is living a new birth. The old buildings are being restored and via Sulis, the part of Villanova closer to Saint Remy Rampart, has now become a high-end shopping street, while carpenters and small shops are gradually opening up their activities, making a walk through Villanova a worthwhile experience.

BASILICA OF ST SATURNIN (BASILICA DI SAN SATURNINO)The basilica is probably the most ancient example of Romanesque architecture in Cagliari. A 6th century document mentions the site for the first time. It had probably already been built in the place where young Saturnin had been martyred in 304 AD. The church and the adjacent monastery were gradually abandoned during the Middle Ages, then restored during the Spanish domination, before part of its limestone bricks were used for restoration works in the Cathedral. The surrounding necropolis has given light to many Roman and Byzantine burials. Only the central part of what used to be the Greek cross plan is visible.QE-4, Piazza San Cosimo, tel. (+39) 070 65 98 69. Closed until further notice.

EXMÀExmà is a multi-functional space which regularly hosts temporary exhibitions, screening of movies, theatre and live music shows. It is located inside the closed walls of the old city slaughterhouse, which was renovated in 1993. Right beside a very busy road, Exmà is a quiet oasis of peace, with a hamlet-like feeling to it. It is defi nitely worth paying a visit after seeing the Basilica of St Saturnin, which is only a few minutes walk away.QD-4, Via San Lucifero 71, tel. (+39) 070 66 63 99, [email protected], www.camuweb.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Jun - Aug 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special exhibitions may charge an admission fee. U

ST JAMES’S CHURCH (CHIESA DI SAN GIACOMO)This is one of the oldest parish churches in Cagliari and documents date it back as early as the 14th century. It was built in the typical Catalan-Gothic style of the time. It underwent restoration works in the 18th and then the 19th century, which added the Neo-Classical façade, based on a project by architect Gaetano Cima. The main structure has preserved many Gothic elements, e.g. the steeple, the apse behind the main altar and four side chapels. It’s worth to walk in to have a look, while walking around the busy shopping streets of Villanova.QD-3, Piazza San Giacomo 3, tel. (+39) 070 66 28 71. Open 08:00 - 11:00. Admission free.

OTHER SIGHTS BASILICA OF OUR LADY OF BONARIA (BASILICA DI NOSTRA SIGNORA DI BONARIA)The basilica, the sanctuary and the convent are built on the hill south-east of the city centre and about a 15/20 minute walk from via Roma. The initial church, which maintains its original Gothic architecture, was built after 1323, on the site where the Aragonese decided to set up their camp and lay siege to the city. It was then donated to the Order of Our Lady of Mercy, who then built a convent. In 1370, during a terrible storm in the gulf of Cagliari, a ship wrecked and part of its load, a large case containing a very fi ne statue of Our Lady, was found on the shore in front of the church. Both the statue and the case are on public display. The building of the adjacent basilica started in the 18th century and it was then resumed, but not fi nished until 1926. The complex is surrounded by a small but pleasant park, with nice views over the port.QPiazza Bonaria, tel. (+39) 070 30 17 47, www.bonaria.eu. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 16:30 - 19:30. Admission free.

CAVE OF THE VIPER (GROTTA DELLA VIPERA)The Cave of the Viper is a burial monument which was erected between the 1st and 2nd century AD. Lucius Cassius Philippus, a Roman who had been exiled to Sardinia, dedicated it to his wife Atilia Pomptilla, who was buried there. The legend tells us that during a bad illness that Lucius had been suff ering from, his wife prayed so much that she ended up dying in his place. Though fairly small, the monument is important for the engraved poems in Latin and Ancient Greek at the sides of the grotto.QViale Sant’Avendrace 87, tel. (+39) 070 409 23 06, [email protected], www.beniculturalicagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission €1. U

CITY GALLERY OF ART (GALLERIA COMUNALE D’ARTE)In the beautiful setting of the Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici), the City Gallery of Modern Art is hosted in a fi ne Neo-Classical building. The museum displays its works on two fl oors and holds, as a permanent exhibition, the Ingrao Collection, with 19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures by Italian artists such as Umberto Boccioni, to whom an entire room is dedicated, Giorgio Morandi and Mino Maccari, among many others. On the ground fl oor is the Sardinian Collection (Collezione Sarda), displaying a

selection of works by Sardinian artists. The museum has a well-stocked shop, with a fairly large selection of books and souvenirs. Guided tours in English or French to be booked in advance.QGiardini Pubblici, largo Giuseppe Dessì, tel. (+39) 070 677 75 98, [email protected], www.museicivicicagliari.it. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. 15 Jun - 14 Sep 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission €6, conc. €2.50. Joint saver ticket for the City Gallery of Modern Art, the Museum of Siamese Art and the Old Town Hall €8, conc. €4. U6 and over 65 free. U

LAZARET (LAZZARETTO)This building used to be the lazaret of the city and it dates back to the 16th century. It was built in what was then a completely isolated area, far from the city and was intended to keep people and goods coming from the sea, which needed to be quarantined. This was a common practice of the time and the idea was to prevent the spreading of epidemics carried by ships and sailors. The structure is currently used for concerts, theatre performances, temporary exhibitions and festivals of diff erent kinds.QVia dei Navigatori, tel. (+39) 070 383 80 85, [email protected], www.lazzarettodicagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, conc. €3. U

MOLENTARGIUS SALINE NATURE PARK (PARCO NATURALE REGIONALE MOLENTARGIUS SALINE)Molentargius Saline Nature Park includes the ancient salt mines (saline), whose use is certifi ed by documents dating back to the Roman period, and the Molentargius pond itself, with its protected wildlife. Home to fl amingoes and other species of residential and migratory birds, the park is ideally placed between Urpinu Hill and Poetto Beach, giving visitors the possibility to trek, run or cycle. There are also spots for bird watching.QEdifi cio Sali Scelti, via La Palma, tel. (+39) 070 37 91 92 01, [email protected], www.parcomolentargius.it. Open 06:30 - 21:00. 16 Oct - 31 Mar 07:00 - 18:00. Visitor Centre open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 16 Oct - 31 Mar 08:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Bicycle rental fi rst hour €3, 2 hours €5, each additional hour €1, U11 fi rst hour €2, 2 hours €3, each additional hour €0.50. Guided tours by boat €10, U11 €5, U3 free (book in advance). TU


ShoppingSightseeing

FOOD DELIZIE DI SARDEGNAThis shop off ers a truly large selection of very good quality only-Sardinian products. Be tempted by traditional cakes, honey and jams, as well as other organic products of the island, such as olive oil, artichokes in oil, myrtle wine and fi l’e ferru (a type of local grappa), just to name a few. Also a good range of typical Sardinian linen and ceramics for sale. You can also order a cabinet or a chest, and the shop manager will arrange the shipping to your home address. Tailor-made Sardinian costumes can be created, though allow up to a few weeks for fi nal delivery. If you’re looking for a gift to bring back home, there’s also a large variety of souvenirs to choose from. A second shop is also open at via Baylle 10 (B-4, tel. (+39) 070 68 03 71, open 09:30 - 13:30, 15:30 - 20:30).QB-3, Via Sardegna 22, tel. (+39) 070 66 93 80/(+39) 349 059 89 88, [email protected], www.deliziedisardegna.it. Open 09:30 - 20:00. JA

HOME & DESIGN INTRECCIThis is a truly unique shop, ideally located along the hill that brings the visitor from the port up towards the Saint Remy Rampart. The very name of it is a clear reference to the act of weaving, at the core of traditional Sardinian craftsmanship. It’s beautifully renovated and full of light,

Via Sardegna 22 - Tel. (+39) 070 66 93 80 / 349 059 89 88Via Baylle 10 - Tel. (+39) 070 68 03 71

[email protected]

POETTO BEACH (SPIAGGIA DEL POETTO)Poetto beach is Cagliari’s pride and the main coastal resort for its citizens. It stretches for around 8km and part of it falls under the municipal territory of neighbouring Quartu Sant’Elena. During the summer months it’s busy almost 24/7. In winter it’s more of an up-market residential, suburban area, while still remaining a great place for long walks along the shore. It’s also a prime location for joggers and cyclists who puff and sweat up and down the road. Well worth the 20-minute bus ride from the city centre.QLungomare Poetto.

ST MICHAEL CASTLE (CASTELLO DI SAN MICHELE)The castle is in the north-western outskirts of the city and the hill where it was built is now a pleasant park for walks and relaxing views of Cagliari’s skyline, even though it’s surrounded by blocks of fl ats. It dates back to the 14th century and it was needed by the Aragonese conquerors to consolidate their power and to prevent attempts of invasion from the north. Despite the many transformations made to it over the centuries, the castle has preserved its three mighty

towers and a deep moat around it. St Michael Castle is used as a venue for temporary exhibitions and other events.QVia Sirai, tel. (+39) 070 50 06 56, [email protected], www.camuweb.it. Closed for repairs. U

TUVIXEDDU NECROPOLIS (NECROPOLI DI TUVIXEDDU)The Tuvixeddu Necropolis is a Punic burial ground, one of the largest in the Mediterranean, located on a hill inside the city. Between the 6th and 3rd centuries BC the Carthaginians chose this hill to bury their dead. Tuvixeddu means “The Hill of Small Holes”, from the Sardinian tuvu for “cavity”, due to the presence of the numerous tombs carved into the limestone. Many of the burial chambers were beautifully decorated and contained amphorae and ampoules. On the slopes of the Tuvixeddu Hill there is also a Roman necropolis with monumental tombs reserved for illustrious fi gures of the times.QVia Falzarego, [email protected]. Jan - Feb, Nov - Dec open 07:00 - 21:00, Mar 07:00 - 21:30, Apr 06:00 - 22:00, May 06:00 - 22:30, Jun 05:30 - 23:00, Jul 05:30 - 24:00, Aug 06:00 - 24:00, Sep 06:30 - 24:00, Oct 07:00 - 22:00. Admission free. U

GREEN CAGLIARI

There will be many of you who will need a break from the heat and the panting up and down Cagliari’s steep hills. There are some beautiful, breezy parks with lots of trees and shade, vital in the summer months! Make the most of them!

On the western side of Urpinu Hill (Monte Urpinu, via Leo, Jan, Dec open 07:00 - 18:00, Feb, Nov 06:30 - 19:00, Mar 06:00 - 19:30, Apr 05:30 - 20:00, May 05:00 - 21:00, Jun - Aug 05:00 - 22:00, Sep 05:30 - 21:00, Oct 06:00 - 20:00) there’s a pleasant pond with ducks and geese, while peacocks walk freely all over the gardens. They’re fairly shy animals, so you might need to be on the look-out if you hope to see some. If you get all the way up to the top, you’ll be gratifi ed by a splendid view of the gulf of Cagliari and of the city. It has easily the best children’s play area in the city, along with plenty of shady benches surrounding it for tired parents to relax on.

At the top of St Michael Hill (Colle San Michele, via Cinquini, Jan - Mar open 07:00 - 19:30, Apr, Oct 07:00 - 20:00, May, Sep 06:30 - 20:30, Jun - Aug 07:00 - 19:30) is the homonymous castle, which hosts exhibitions. Its children’s play area is a little smaller than the others, and its one toilet is a little hard to fi nd, but this really is the place to come if you want the best views in all Cagliari as from the top of the hill you can see for miles in all directions. In the grounds there is both a bar and a restaurant and there is even a lift for those who don’t fancy the, admittedly steep, climb to the top.

Monte Claro Park (Parco Monte Claro, via Cadello, open 06:00 - 24:00, Nov - Apr 07:00 - 21:00) is often chosen by joggers and undergraduates, thanks to its

gentle slopes and proximity to university and sport facilities. Its pond, although smaller than that at Urpinu Hill, is the habitat of some very amiable ducks and there is a café very close to the waters’ edge. There are clearly sign-posted toilets, as well as several very useful drinking water fountains dotted around the park.

The Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici, C-1, via Badas, Jan, Dec open 07:00 - 20:00, Feb - Mar, Nov 06:30 - 20:00, Apr 06:30 - 20:30, May 06:00 - 21:00, Jun 06:00 - 22:30, Jul - Aug 06:00 - 23:00, Sep 06:30 - 22:00, Oct 06:30 - 21:00) are a green oasis just under the towering walls of Buoncammino and between the ancient districts of Castello and Villanova, ideal for joggers, children or just a relaxing stroll.

The Garden below the Walls (Giardino sotto le mura, C-2/3, viale Regina Elena, open 07:00 - 24:00) opened in 2014 and is a pleasant green area in the heart of the city. Perfect for a refreshing break from shopping or sightseeing, this charming garden runs along the ancient city walls below the towering Saint Remy Rampart. The garden is enriched with seven sculptures by the local artist Pinuccio Sciola and is wheelchair friendly.

© Comune di Cagliari


Shoppinginside it’s organised more like an art gallery than a simple shop. Its main philosophy is to display and sell only locally produced handicraft. Elements and material of traditional Sardinian costumes are used to recreate modern clothes for both men and women. There are hand-made carpets, lace and linen with typical decorations, as well as pottery and ceramics which resemble works of art. There’s traditional Sardinian jewellery, such as the famous fi ligree. There are also lamps and boxes and so much more to see.QC-4, Viale Regina Margherita 63, tel. (+39) 070 332 87 08, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. JA

SOANNAEvery piece within this tasteful showroom is hand-curated by the owner to deliver interior decor with heart-felt local flare. The collection features typical Sardinian materials, from ceramics to tapestries, all of which are produced on the island. Particularly winsome are the cushions and casings constructed according to the traditional pibionis technique, elegantly integrated into a contemporary vision that is both authentic and timeless. A must-see for designers and architects, but certainly deserving of a visit as well by anyone who appreciates art or hopes to bring home a statement display piece.QC-2, Via Dante 19/B, tel. (+39) 070 753 37 50, www.soanna.com. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Mon 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PA

JEWELLERY FLORIS CORONEOCatering largely to the desires of refined international clientele, this flagship store, opened in 1971, houses an upscale, newly-renovated jewellery shop as well as a gemological laboratory. Illuminated glass cases hold brands such as Cartier, Bulgari, Rolex, and Breguet, to name a few, and Floris Coroneo is an exclusive distributor of many of the brands. Here you can peruse the most lavish baubles and timepieces, obtain repairs, or seek guidance from the technically informed staff. Delivery to your hotel or international shipping is available upon request.QC-2, Via Dante 92/A, tel. (+39) 070 49 69 30, www.floriscoroneo.it/floriscoroneo. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. PA

LOREDANA MANDASIn Loredana Mandas’s laboratory, one of the few fi ligree jewellery artisans in southern Sardinia, you can experience the thrill of art in progress as you watch her creating hand-made jewellery typical of the island’s rich craft traditions. Her shop window abounds in unique pieces of artwork from traditional ethnic jewellery to geometric motifs, pendants, earrings and rings embellished with precious and semiprecious stones. Loredana Mandas’s shop is a must for those who appreciate high quality handmade jewellery and want to see genuine Sardinian

VIA DANTE 92/A, CAGLIARI | TEL. (+39) 070 49 69 30 | WWW.FLORISCORONEO.IT

© PlayStyle © PlayStyle

Design ShowroomArtisanal Interior Decor

Via Dante 19/B, Cagliari(+39) 070 75 33 750

www.soanna.com | [email protected]

Discover the best of Italian design, curated and displayed in the heart of Cagliari.


ShoppingShopping

craftsmanship. If no one is in the shop ring the bell on the right, as Loredana lives just above the shop and will come down and assist you.QB-3, Via Sicilia 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 48, [email protected], www.loredanamandas.com. Open 09:30 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PJA

some others selling items such as clothes and furniture, or off ering services such as key cutting.Each market (mercato in Italian) has its unique selection and distinctive character, but what they all have in common is a wide variety of fruit, vegetables, meat and fi sh, some kind of café or bar facility for those looking for refreshment, and very friendly staff . The latter is important to mention as the market traders in Cagliari possess the unique gift of being amicable and knowledgeable about their products without being aggressive in their sales technique, which is so often the downfall of such places. Here you can feel at ease to browse at leisure without being bullied into making a hasty purchase. Some of the markets are a little too far out of the centre to be comfortably reached on foot, but they are very easily reachable by regular buses so it is

DEPARTMENT STORES

LA RINASCENTEla Rinascente store in Cagliari is the ideal place to fi nd the best when it comes down to fashion, accessories, beauty, home, design and gourmet foods. Here shoppers can browse a wide range of the best-known Italian and international brands with two storeys dedicated to

women’s fashion of the latest and most tempting trends. Special attention is also given to home interiors, with a Design Supermarket where shoppers will fi nd lighting, luggage and bags, small electronic appliances, stationery, gadgets and gifts. Visitors will also fi nd the most innovative cosmetics and the best-known brands in the Beauty department on the ground-fl oor. But the show piece is the brand new Food Hall on the sixth Floor: a unique location with a spectacular sea view. Here you can choose from an excellent Italian restaurant, a refi ned pan-Asian restaurant, a lounge bar with a fl air for glamour, a food market for gourmets as well as an excellent traditional Italian bar on the ground fl oor. The constant arrival of new brands, unique commodities and the latest products exclusive to la Rinascente make the store a focal point for your high-end shopping in the city.QB-3/4, Via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 60 451, fax (+39) 070 65 49 17, www.rinascente.it. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Oct - Mar 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PJAUK

© Julia Wohlers

OPTICIANS OTTICA MUSANTINestled in the heart of the historic Marina quarter, this shop is more than just an optometrist. While it does off er proper vision tests and eye-care services, also on display you will fi nd prescription eyeglasses and frames, trendy shades to protect your eyes from the rays (a defi nite must in sunny Sardinia!) and everything in between, including brands such as Fendi, Arias, Boss, and Rayban. Drop by as you wander down towards the waterfront to ensure you are fully equipped in style. Summer brings extended shop hours.QB-3, Via Dettori 10, tel. (+39) 070 66 47 80, www.otticamusanti.it. Open 09:00 - 13:30, 16:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJA

MARKETSCagliari is very well served in terms of municipal markets, boasting fi ve in total. These should not just be seen as somewhere useful to do your shopping, though naturally they serve this purpose very well, but as an excellent place to absorb a little of the local culture and its traditions.The markets in their current form are comparatively new, having opened in their present locations the late 1950s. However, as an institution they are much older than that, and you can really get a feel as you walk round them that this is a tradition that has been going on for centuries. Some of the older citizens of Cagliari will still fondly recall the city’s oldest market structure, that of largo Carlo Felice, which was unfortunately bombed during WWII. Its destruction meant that there was a need for a replacement, which came into being in the form of the markets that we see today. There are now over six hundred small businesses operating within the municipal markets. The vast majority of these are traders of food produce, but there are also

still worth making the trip as you will be rewarded with a very enriching experience. Outside the actual buildings in which the markets are housed are plenty of stalls selling clothes, household items and antique furniture. The stock is extremely variable both in quantity and quality, but the patient shopper could easily fi nd a diamond in the rough here and come out with a one-of-a-kind piece of jewellery or an antique desk lamp. In any case, the buzzing atmosphere around these stalls merits taking a minute or two to cast your eye over them.The main market, and one that should defi nitely not be missed, is the Mercato San Benedetto. This is the central market both in terms of location and size – they say it’s one of the largest covered markets in Italy. Spread over two fl oors and spilling out onto the streets outside, this place really has to be experienced to be truly appreciated. As you walk in you will be taken aback both by the sheer selection on off er and by the electric atmosphere of a buzzing city market. Most of the downstairs fl oor is devoted to fi sh, and such an abundance of the stuff you’d have diffi culty fi nding anywhere else. If you’re hungry (which, let’s face it, you will be when surrounded by all this food) then why not indulge in a paper cone of freshly fried seafood? This recent innovation has proved very popular and it’s obvious why: it’s tasty, good value and the portions are enormous! San Benedetto, like all the other municipal markets, is open every morning from Monday to Saturday, but it’s probably best visited from Tuesday to Friday if you want to fi nd the best stock and to avoid the crowds that descend on it from far and wide on Saturdays. © Comune di Cagliari


DirectoryShopping

DENTISTSCENTRO ODONTOIATRICO SARDO BAIREQA-3, Via Roma 52, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 00, [email protected], www.centroodontoiatricosardo.com. Open 08:30 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

STUDIO DENTISTICO ASSOCIATO CARUSOQB-3, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16, tel. (+39) 070 68 22 22, www.dentistacaruso.it. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

STUDIO ODONTOIATRICO ASSOCIATO FALCONIQVia Mameli 222, tel. (+39) 070 27 21 20, [email protected], www.studioodontoiatricofalconi.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

DRY CLEANERSDESOGUSQVia Satta 54, tel. (+39) 070 66 35 03. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

LAVASECCO PONYQC-4, Via del Collegio 11, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 28. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

LAVASECCO SAN GIORGIOQD-3, Via Iglesias 33, tel. (+39) 070 66 33 27. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:15 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

KEY CUTSCAPRAQB-3, Via Sassari 77/A, tel. (+39) 070 65 38 59. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

FRATELLI BINELLIQA-2, Via Pola 14, tel. (+39) 070 65 83 65, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

KINDERGARTENSBABY IN GIARDINOQD-4, Via Lanusei 27, tel. (+39) 070 66 43 46, [email protected], www.babyingiardino.it. Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

CHATTERBOXKindergarten and primary school. All classes held in English. Fully qualifi ed English-speaking staff .QA-4, Viale La Plaia 11, tel. (+39) 070 684 85 51/(+39) 345 387 86 47, [email protected], www.chatterboxenglishschool.co.uk. Open 07:45 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

HAPPY BABY ASILO NIDO IN INGLESEEnglish language kindergarten.QVia Rossini 13, tel. (+39) 328 859 37 83. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

LAUNDERETTESLE LAVANDERIE DEL CORSOQA-2, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 270, tel. (+39) 392 923 71 48, www.lelavanderiedelcorso.com. Open 07:30 - 22:30. W

LIBRARIESCAGLIARI UNIVERSITY LIBRARY (BIBLIOTECA UNIVERSITARIA)You must register to borrow books, but you can just walk in to consult their vast selection and while you are there why not visit the impressive 18th century chamber. There is also a small Internet point which is available for use from 08:30 to 13:30.QC-3, Via Università 32, tel. (+39) 070 66 10 21, fax (+39) 070 65 26 72, www.sba.unica.it. Open 08:15 - 19:15, Sat 08:15 - 13:00. Closed Sun. PR

MEM MEDIATECA DEL MEDITERRANEOThis avant-garde media library covers two fl oors of what was once the old town market hall. The cavernous building has been transformed into a luminous, modern gallery which hosts this important cultural reference point for children, students, adults and visitors alike. Reading rooms, general, children’s and reference library, MEM off ers a pleasant environment for study and research.QVia Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 070 677 38 65, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon and last Sun of the month. PTRUW

PROVINCIAL LIBRARY (BIBLIOTECA PROVINCIALE DI CAGLIARI EMILIO LUSSU)The library is located in a beautiful, luminous building off ering splendid views over the Monte Claro Park. Visitors can borrow e-books, consult the more than forty thousand books on the shelves, including reference books, daily newspapers and reviews, or just retire to the relaxing reading rooms available for quiet contemplation. For younger readers there is also a Children’s Library (Biblioteca Provinciale Ragazzi) in a nearby building (open 16:00 - 20:00, Thu, Sat 09:00-13:00, 16:00 - 20:00).QVia Cadello 9/B, tel. (+39) 070 409 29 01/(+39) 070 409 29 12, fax (+39) 070 409 29 02, [email protected], www.bibliotecaprovincialecagliari.wordpress.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. PTUW

SHOE REPAIRSCALZOLERIA DI FABRIZIO ATZENIQVia Tuveri 62, tel. (+39) 348 352 07 17. Open 07:30 - 13:00, 15:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

DAVIDE LECCAQVia Cimarosa 124, MGennari, tel. (+39) 347 348 30 57. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

A much smaller market, though no less interesting for it, is the Mercato di Santa Chiara, moments away from piazza Yenne. It is the oldest of the current municipal markets, having opened its doors in 1955, and has all the charm and personality befi tting such a title. It has only one fl oor and a handful of stalls, but this should at least make decision making easier! The usual gastronomic delights are on off er, perfect for picking up ingredients for an impromptu picnic lunch. Once you’re back outside, you can admire the excellent view it has over the city.For those heading to Poetto beach for the day, a pit-stop at the Mercato Sant’Elia is both a convenient way to stock up your picnic hamper and a chance to really get a fl avour of a neighbourhood market. Situated in what is eff ectively the car park of Cagliari’s football stadium, it is perhaps a little rough round the edges in aesthetic terms, but don’t let that put you off . Instead see it as all the more reason to get inside and see what’s on off er. As well as the usual sumptuous selection, there is an enoteca (a wine shop and bar) on the fi rst fl oor selling local wines either by the glass to drink there or in amusingly makeshift large plastic bottles to take away with you. Another small but perfectly formed market is the Mercato di Is Bingias, situated in the centre of the Pirri neighbourhood. It has the welcoming feel of a modest community market but a selection that could rival many twice its size. It has a spread of fruit and vegetables that would get even the most carnivorous customer salivating, along with the usual meat and fi sh, and bakeries selling plaited loaves and delightful little pastries that look almost too good to eat.Meat and fi sh lovers, meanwhile, will surely be delighted with the selection on off er at the Mercato di via Quirra. Like San Benedetto market, it is spread over two fl oors, with the ground fl oor mostly dedicated to fi sh, with everything from the most gigantic swordfi sh to the tiniest little live crabs on off er. You can also get freshly fried fi sh here if you’re feeling peckish. Upstairs, the butchers’ stalls boast the fi nest cuts of every kind. This is perhaps not a place for the faint hearted: whole suckling pigs hang next to rabbits and chickens, whilst pigs’ and sheep’s heads stare up at you from the counter. Still, if you’re someone who likes to know where their meat comes from, and not buy anonymous

pink slabs wrapped in plastic, this can only be a good thing! As well as the meat and vegetables, the fi rst fl oor also plays host to a number of stalls selling cheese, bread, cakes and homemade fresh pasta.A trip to the markets of Cagliari really is a shopping experience to rival no other, and a really easy, enjoyable way to play at being a local for a morning. This, along the outstanding quality of the produce itself, is the reason why at least one of these markets should defi nitely be part of your itinerary here in Cagliari.

MERCATO DI IS BINGIASQVia della Resistenza, tel. (+39) 070 50 02 55. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

MERCATO DI SANTA CHIARAQC-2, Scalette Santa Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 39. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

MERCATO DI VIA QUIRRAQVia Quirra, tel. (+39) 070 28 49 26. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

MERCATO SAN BENEDETTOQD/E-1, Via Cocco Ortu, tel. (+39) 070 40 33 96, www.mercatosanbenedetto.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

MERCATO SANT’ELIAQVia Carta Raspi, tel. (+39) 070 37 05 29. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

© Cocco & Saba - courtesy of Comune di Cagliari

Mercato di Santa Chiara © Cocco & Saba - courtesy of Comune di Cagliari


Where to sleepWhere to sleep

CREAM OF THE CROP FORTE VILLAGEQ SS195, 39.600km, Santa Margherita di Pula, tel. (+39) 070 921 88 18, fax (+39) 070 92 12 64, [email protected], www.fortevillageresort.com. Open May - mid-October. 750 rooms. P T H A U F L�B K C w W h h h h h

PULLMAN TIMI AMA SARDEGNAQ Viale dei Ginepri 3, Villasimius, tel. (+39) 070 79 791, fax (+39) 070 79 72 85, [email protected], www.pullmanhotels.com/gb/hotel-3040-pullman-timi-ama-sardegna/index.shtml. Open 24 Apr - 18 Oct. 275 rooms. P i T H A R U F L B K C w W h h h h h

T HOTELQ Via dei Giudicati 66, tel. (+39) 070 47 400, fax (+39) 070 47 40 16, [email protected], www.thotel.com. 207 rooms. P H A U F L K w W h h h h

UPMARKET CAESAR’SQ Via Darwin 2-4, tel. (+39) 070 34 07 50, fax (+39) 070 34 07 55, [email protected], www.caesarshotel.it. 48 rooms. P H A U L K W h h h h

HOLIDAY INN CAGLIARIQ Viale Ticca 23, tel. (+39) 070 53 79, fax (+39) 070 211 04 01, [email protected], www.holidayinn.com/cagliari. 92 rooms. P H A L K D C W h h h h

MIRAMAREQ B-4, Via Roma 59, tel./fax (+39) 070 66 40 21, [email protected], www.hotelmiramarecagliari.it. 18 rooms. P i J A 6 I W h h h h

PANORAMAQ Viale Diaz 231, tel. (+39) 070 30 76 91, fax (+39) 070 30 54 13, [email protected], www.hotelpanorama.it. 100 rooms. P H A U F L K C W h h h h

REGINA MARGHERITAQ C-4, Viale Regina Margherita 44, tel. (+39) 070 67 03 42, fax (+39) 070 66 83 25, [email protected], www.hotelreginamargherita.com. 100 rooms. P T J H A L G W h h h h

SARDEGNAQ Via Lunigiana 50, tel. (+39) 070 28 62 45, fax (+39) 070 29 04 69, [email protected], www.sardegnahotelcagliari.it. 84 rooms. P T A 6�L K W h h h h

MID-RANGE4 MORIQ B-3, Via Angioy 27, tel. (+39) 070 66 85 35, fax (+39) 070 66 60 87, [email protected], www.hotel4mori.it. 42 rooms. P J A U h h h

CALAMOSCAQ Viale Calamosca 50, tel. (+39) 070 37 16 28, fax (+39) 070 37 03 46, [email protected], www.hotelcalamosca.it. 47 rooms. P i A 6 L B K W h h h

DUE COLONNEQ B-3, Via Sardegna 4, tel. (+39) 070 65 87 10, fax (+39) 070 65 47 83, [email protected], www.hotel2colonne.it. 23 rooms. P T J A U W h h h

IDEA HOTEL CAGLIARI SANTA MARIAQ Circonvallazione di Pirri, angolo via Santa Maria Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 451 93 00, fax (+39) 02 49 52 23 11, [email protected], www.ideahotel.it. 129 rooms. P H A L G W h h h

ITALIAQ B-4, Via Sardegna 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 04 10, fax (+39) 070 65 02 40, [email protected], www.hotelitaliacagliari.com. 100 rooms. P i T J�H A 6 G W h h h

NAUTILUSQ Lungomare Poetto 158, tel. (+39) 070 37 00 91, fax (+39) 070 773 11 94, [email protected], www.hotelnautiluspoetto.com. 15 rooms. P i T A�U G W h h h

BUDGET A&R BUNDES JACKQ B-4, Via Roma 75, tel./fax (+39) 070 66 79 70, [email protected], www.hotelbjvittoria.it. 14 rooms. P J N W h h

CHENTU LUNASQ Piazza Archipelaghi 1, tel. (+39) 070 38 95 39/(+39) 328 762 20 69, fax (+39) 070 383 79 87, [email protected], www.chentulunas.it. Closed Oct - Feb. 7 rooms. P A K W h

LA TERRAZZAQ B-2, Via Santa Margherita 21, tel. (+39) 070 66 86 52, fax (+39) 070 66 08 63, [email protected], www.laterrazzahotel.com. 14 rooms. P J A 6 W h h

B&BS ALMEAQ Via Rockefeller 27, tel. (+39) 328 009 51 51, [email protected]. 3 rooms. P L N G X W

ANTICA RESIDENZA MARINA DI CASTELLOQ B-4, Via Roma 75, tel. (+39) 335 812 58 81/(+39) 070 289 04 77, [email protected], www.bedandbreakfastcagliaricity.it. 3 rooms. P i J�N G B X W

ART ROOMSQ B-2, Via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 26, tel. (+39) 070 68 09 53/(+39) 333 648 08 99, [email protected], www.bbartrooms.it. 3 rooms. P i J A G X W

AT FOURTHQ Via Isola Stromboli 3, tel. (+39) 388 320 93 94, [email protected], www.atfourthbb.com. 3 rooms. P i�G X W

BOAT & BREAKFAST CAGLIARIThis one-of-a-kind overnight experi-ence off ers guests the rare chance to stay in the city centre while completely on the water at the same time! Docked in the Marina di Portus Karalis, Boat and Breakfast is owned by a delightful couple seeking to share their passion for sailboats and the sea. On board the sloop you will fi nd a comfortable

living and dining area, kitchenette with refrigerator and coff ee maker, two bedrooms plus a spacious convert-ible couch, a small bathroom with shower, and even Wi-Fi. The breakfast part of the deal is served at the nautical cafe next door. With the owner serving as skipper, you can even take the boat out for excursions up and down the southern coast of Sardinia. A truly rare and memo-rable accommodation!QC-4, Molo Calata Darsena, tel. (+39) 340 639 69 45, [email protected], www.boatandbreakfastcagliari.it. 2 rooms. Pi�JAGW

ELIZABETHQ D-2, Via San Giovanni 60, tel. (+39) 328 283 31 15, [email protected], www.elizabethbb.com. 2 rooms. i J N G W

FIOR DI LOTOQ A-2, Viale Trieste 56, tel. (+39) 070 756 71 66/(+39) 335 785 01 99, [email protected], www.fiordilotocagliari.com. 3 rooms. P i T J A 6 W

IL CAGLIARESEQ C-4, Via Porcile 19, tel. (+39) 339 654 40 83, [email protected], www.ilcagliarese.it. 3 rooms. P i J G W

IL GIARDINO SEGRETOQ B-2, Via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 16, tel. (+39) 339 478 45 75/(+39) 070 65 98 32, [email protected], www.ilgiardinosegretocagliari.com. 4 rooms. P J G W

IL PERUGINOQ Via Il Perugino 2, tel. (+39) 349 393 16 34, [email protected], www.bbilperugino.com. 3 rooms. P G W

IL PROFUMO DEL MAREQ Viale Poetto 196, tel. (+39) 338 144 82 75, [email protected], www.profumodelmare.weebly.com. 2 rooms. P G X W

LA GHIRLANDAQ B-4, Via Baylle 7, tel. (+39) 070 204 06 10/(+39) 339 889 26 48, [email protected], www.bnblaghirlanda.com. 3 rooms. P J G W

LA PEONIAQ Via Riva Villasanta 77, tel. (+39) 070 51 31 64/(+39) 338 724 14 83, fax (+39) 070 796 20 32, [email protected], www.lapeonia.com. 3 rooms. P i A I G B W

LA TERRAZZA NELISSENQ Viale Sant’Avendrace 112, tel. (+39) 349 825 45 55, [email protected]. 1 room. P G X W

LIVINGSTONEQ A-2, Via XXIX Novembre 6, tel. (+39) 347 433 23 83, [email protected]. 3 rooms. P J N G X W

RESIDENZA KASTRUMQ C-2, Via Canelles 78, tel. (+39) 348 001 22 80, [email protected], www.kastrum.eu. 4 rooms. P i J G X�W

ROSSO E NEROQ B-3, Via Savoia 6, tel. (+39) 349 746 34 73/(+39) 070 65 66 73, [email protected], www.rossoenerobeb.it. 1 room. P J G X W

VILLA VAGHIQ Viale Poetto 4, tel. (+39) 334 234 93 60, [email protected], www.bbvillavaghi.com. 3 rooms. P G X�W

HOSTELS CAGLIARI HOSTEL MARINAQ C-3, Scalette San Sepolcro 2, tel. (+39) 070 67 08 18, [email protected], www.hostelmarinacagliari.com. 35 rooms. P J H A E G X W

© Pullman Timi Ama Sardegna, Saverio Lombardi Vallauri

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Index 4 Mori 32

Almea 33

Antica Residenza Marina di Castello 33

Antico Caffè 1855 15

A&R Bundes Jack 32

Art Rooms 33

At Fourth 33

Bamboo 12

Barca 12

Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria

(Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria) 23

Basilica of St Saturnin

(Basilica di San Saturnino) 22

Basilica of the Holy Cross

(Basilica di Santa Croce) 17

Boat & Breakfast Cagliari 33

Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico) 21

Caesar's 32

Caffè delle Arti 15

Caffè Libarium 16

Caffè Svizzero 15

Cagliari Hostel Marina 33

Calamosca 32

Cathedral Museum (Museo del Duomo) 17

Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption

(Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta) 17

Cave of the Viper (Grotta della Vipera) 23

Chentu Lunas 32

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

(Chiesa di San Sepolcro) 20

City Gallery of Art

(Galleria Comunale d'Arte) 23

Cremeria Ritz 15

Delizie di Sardegna 25

Due Colonne 32

Elephant Tower (Torre dell'Elefante) 17

Elizabeth 33

Exmà 22

Fior di Loto 33

Floris Coroneo 26

Food Market 12

Forte Village 32

Holiday Inn Cagliari 32

House of Tigellius (Villa di Tigellio) 21

Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa Maria 32

Il Birrificio di Cagliari 16

Il Cagliarese 33

Il Gelato Aresu 15

Il Giardino Segreto 33

Il Perugino 33

Il Profumo del Mare 33

Indoor Promenade

(Passeggiata Coperta) 18

Intrecci 25

Italia 32

La Ghirlanda 33

La Peonia 33

la Rinascente 28

La Terrazza 33

La Terrazza Nelissen 33

Lazaret (Lazzaretto) 23

Le Patate & Co. 14

Livingstone 33

Lord Nelson 12

Loredana Mandas 26

Major Preep 15

Man.Gia. Senza Glutine 11

Martinelli's 12

Mercato di Is Bingias 30

Mercato di Santa Chiara 30

Mercato di via Quirra 30

Mercato San Benedetto 30

Mercato Sant’Elia 30

Miramare 32

Mojito 16

Molentargius Saline Nature Park (Parco

Naturale Regionale Molentargius Saline) 23

Museum of Siamese Art

(Museo d’Arte Siamese Stefano Cardu) 19

National Archaeological Museum

(Museo Archeologico Nazionale) 19

National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale) 19

Nautilus 32

Old Town Hall (Antico Palazzo di Città) 18

Ottica Musanti 28

Panorama 32

Piazza Yenne 21

Poetto Beach (Spiaggia del Poetto) 24

Pomod'Oro 14

Pullman Timi Ama Sardegna 32

Regina Margherita 32

Residenza Kastrum 33

Ritual 16

Roman Amphitheatre

(Anfiteatro romano) 21

Rosso e Nero 33

Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) 18

Sa Carapigna 15

Saint Remy Rampart

(Bastione Saint Remy) 18

Sardegna 32

Sardinia Magic Experience 6

Sesto Lounge Bar 14

Soanna 26

St Anne's Church (Chiesa di Sant'Anna) 22

St Augustine’s Church

(Chiesa di Sant’Agostino) 20

St Eulalia’s Church, Archaeological Site

and Treasure Museum

(Chiesa di Sant’Eulalia, area archeologica e

Museo del Tesoro) 20

St James’s Church

(Chiesa di San Giacomo) 22

St Michael Castle

(Castello di San Michele) 24

St Michael’s Church

(Chiesa di San Michele) 22

St Pancras Tower

(Torre di San Pancrazio) 18

St Restituta's Crypt

(Cripta di Santa Restituta) 22

The Ghetto (Centro Comunale d’Arte e

Cultura Il Ghetto) 18

T Hotel 32

Tuvixeddu Necropolis

(Necropoli di Tuvixeddu) 24

University and Old College (Palazzo

dell’Università ed ex Seminario) 19

Universo Vegano 12

Via Roma 20

Villa Vaghi 33

Vinvoglio Wine Jazz Club 16

Wax Anatomical Models Museum

(Museo delle Cere Anatomiche Clemente

Susini) 19

Poetto Beach and the Sella del Diavolo © G. Alvito - Teravista, courtesy of Comune di Cagliari

2340000001323

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