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Camagüey Province %32 / pop 780,600 Why Go? Neither Occidente nor Oriente, Camagüey is Cuba’s provin- cial contrarian, a region that likes to go its own way in politi- cal and cultural matters – and usually does – much to the chagrin of folks in Havana and Santiago. Seeds were sown in the colonial era, when Camagüey’s preference for cattle ranching over sugarcane meant less reliance on slave labor and more enthusiasm to get rid of a system that bred misery. Today Cuba’s largest province is a mostly pancake-flat pastoral mix of grazing cattle, lazy old sugar mill towns and, in the south, a few low-but-lovely hill ranges. It’s flanked by Cuba’s two largest archipelagos: the Sabana-Camagüey in the north and the Jardines de la Reina in the south, both underdeveloped and almost virgin in places. Staunchly Catholic capital Camagüey is, with its alluring architecture and cosmopolitan charm surpassed in Cuba only by Havana, pin-up for the province. It’s a fiercely in- dependent city that nurtured revolutionary poet Nicolás Guillén, groundbreaking scientist Carlos J Finlay and an internationally famous ballet company. When to Go ¨ There’s debate about the actual year of Camagüey’s founding (the 500th anniversary is being celebrated in 2014 with innumerable parties) – everyone, however, hits the streets in February to celebrate Jornada de la Cultura Camagüeyana (Days of Camagüeyan Culture). ¨ For outdoor enthusiasts, March is prime time for viewing migratory birds on the northern keys. ¨ In playa Santa Lucía, the amazing underwater shark- feeding show is held when sharks are in the area between June and January. ¨ In September, Camagüey showcases some more of its cultural prowess with the Festival Nacional de Teatro (National Theater Festival). Best Places to Eat ¨ Café Ciudad (p332) ¨ Restaurante 1800 (p332) ¨ El Bucanero (p341) ¨ Restaurante Italiano Santa Teresa (p332) Best Places to Stay ¨ Gran Hotel (p332) ¨ Casa de Magalis (p337) ¨ Los Vitrales (p330) ¨ Motel la Belén (p336) Camagüey ................. 325 Florida ....................... 336 Sierra del Chorrillo.... 336 Guáimaro................... 337 Nuevitas .................... 337 Brasil & Around ......... 338 Cayo Sabinal ............. 338 Playa Santa Lucía...... 339 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Camagüey Province - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/cuba-7-camaguey-preview.pdf · 2013. 11. 22. · Esmeralda La Tomatera Contramaestre Najasa La Jagua Altagracia

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Page 1: Camagüey Province - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/cuba-7-camaguey-preview.pdf · 2013. 11. 22. · Esmeralda La Tomatera Contramaestre Najasa La Jagua Altagracia

Camagüey Province%32 / pop 780,600

Why Go?Neither Occidente nor Oriente, Camagüey is Cuba’s provin-cial contrarian, a region that likes to go its own way in politi-cal and cultural matters – and usually does – much to the chagrin of folks in Havana and Santiago.

Seeds were sown in the colonial era, when Camagüey’s preference for cattle ranching over sugarcane meant less reliance on slave labor and more enthusiasm to get rid of a system that bred misery.

Today Cuba’s largest province is a mostly pancake-flat pastoral mix of grazing cattle, lazy old sugar mill towns and, in the south, a few low-but-lovely hill ranges. It’s flanked by Cuba’s two largest archipelagos: the Sabana-Camagüey in the north and the Jardines de la Reina in the south, both underdeveloped and almost virgin in places.

Staunchly Catholic capital Camagüey is, with its alluring architecture and cosmopolitan charm surpassed in Cuba only by Havana, pin-up for the province. It’s a fiercely in-dependent city that nurtured revolutionary poet Nicolás Guillén, groundbreaking scientist Carlos J Finlay and an internationally famous ballet company.

When to Go¨¨ There’s debate about the actual year of Camagüey’s

founding (the 500th anniversary is being celebrated in 2014 with innumerable parties) – everyone, however, hits the streets in February to celebrate Jornada de la Cultura Camagüeyana (Days of Camagüeyan Culture).

¨¨ For outdoor enthusiasts, March is prime time for viewing migratory birds on the northern keys.

¨¨ In playa Santa Lucía, the amazing underwater shark-feeding show is held when sharks are in the area between June and January.

¨¨ In September, Camagüey showcases some more of its cultural prowess with the Festival Nacional de Teatro (National Theater Festival).

Best Places to Eat¨¨ Café Ciudad (p332)

¨¨ Restaurante 1800 (p332)

¨¨ El Bucanero (p341)

¨¨ Restaurante Italiano Santa Teresa (p332)

Best Places to Stay¨¨ Gran Hotel (p332)

¨¨ Casa de Magalis (p337)

¨¨ Los Vitrales (p330)

¨¨ Motel la Belén (p336)

Camagüey.................. 325Florida........................336Sierra.del.Chorrillo.....336Guáimaro.................... 337Nuevitas..................... 337Brasil.&.Around..........338Cayo.Sabinal..............338Playa.Santa.Lucía.......339

©Lonely¨Planet¨Publications¨Pty¨Ltd

Page 2: Camagüey Province - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/cuba-7-camaguey-preview.pdf · 2013. 11. 22. · Esmeralda La Tomatera Contramaestre Najasa La Jagua Altagracia

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FloridaMinas

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La Tomatera

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La Jagua

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La Gloria

Cubitas

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la BelénLa Hacienda

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Sierra del Chorrillo

LucíaPlaya Santa

0 40 km0 20 miles

1.retreat.into.the.Sierra del Chorrillo,.harboring.rare.birds.and.petrified.forests.(p336).

2.Watch.dive.instructors.fearlessly.feed.sharks.off.Playa Santa Lucía (p339).3.Discover.huge.flamingo.nesting.sites.on.the.Refugio de Fauna Silvestre Río Máximo (p339).

4.Say.your.penance.in.Camagüey.and.find.Cuba’s.Catholic.soul.in.a.stash.of.colonial.churches.(p328).5.Stop.in.Guáimaro,.where.Cuba’s.first.constitution.was.signed.(p337).

6.Go.fly-fishing.for.tarpon.and.bonefish.in.the.shallow.flats.off.Cayo Cruz (p338).

7.explore.the.most.sophisticated.restaurant.scene.at.one.of.Camagüey’s.delectable.eateries,.like.Restaurante 1800.(p332)..8.Go.shopping.for.fresh.produce.with.the.locals.at.Camagüey’s.Mercado Agropecuario Hatibonico.(p330).

Camagüey Province Highlights