Cambridge News | cambridge-news.co.uk | August 3, 2013 | 21

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OH, it’s chic in the Cambridge BrewHouse. I’ve pottered in for drinksbefore and cooed over the vintage-

style lampshades and worn wood surfaces;had a swoon on the roof terrace when itwas so hot the pavements seemed to beslowly melting in the sun.

And, on said occasions, I’ve also had acider in one hand, and the other just aboutunder control as boards of crispy fish and“English tapas” whirled by.

It’s not polite to steal chips fromstrangers, you know.

So, my hopes were decidedly high as,starving and in need of a serious sugar hit,my mum and I snuck in for a mid-weekmeal. And I’ll tell you now: if you’re hungryit does just fine. If you want food thatmakes you dribble and sigh happily, not somuch.

But back to the décor: spruced up retrobus seats, antique ice skates with softleather straps, tea lights in china teacups,pots of herbs as table centrepieces (somewilting forlornly – but prettily all the same),odd cutlery (that’s a good thing) and comfycushions. It’s just lovely in there.

After mentally buying up half therestaurant, we got down to ordering froma rustic, brown paper menu (seriously, theattention to detail is brilliant).

I opted very quickly for the twice-cookedsticky beef in homemade BBQ saucewith handcut chips (£12.50), while mymum chose the steak burger with meltedcheddar on a sour dough bun with handcut

chips and smoked garlic mayo (£10),topping it up with a sliver of crispy bacon(£1.25).

To be honest I don’t really understandwhy places brag about having handcutchips – and these ones were clearlyconfused about whether or not they weremeant to be chips or wedges. And sadly,I reckon they plumped drily for a not-so-happy in between. Covered in salt andmayonnaise though, they did the job andsoaked up the sticky, slightly sweet BBQsauce.

The beef, three huge hunks of it, lookedamazing and fell – apparently tenderly – topieces with only a little nudge of a fork.

However, despite the promising start,it required a whole lot of chewing andthe sauce just wasn’t up to moistening it. Icould have done with a jug of the stuff onthe side. At least the salad dressing addedanother level of tanginess.

The burger (which, despite being a steakburger, you can’t get cooked to order), wasjust a burger. It wasn’t that special – sure,it came in a nice bun and ticked all yourusual burger boxes, but a McDonald’sdouble cheeseburger has more lip-smacking ‘mmm’ factor.

Still, you can’t fault the size of theportions – they are massive: we couldn’tfinish the chips and, even after a 20-minutewalk/waddle home, were still too full– or the presentation (giant choppingboards, crisp white plates, dinky jars ofcondiments), but the attention to detailseemed to just shimmer on the surface, itdidn’t delve into the actual food.

Who cares if it’s pretty when it tastesmediocre? Or is that too harsh?

We decided to persevere by orderingpudding (I know, we’re pigs).

The cheeseboards looked pretty amazing(the Brew House cures some of its cheese,fish and meats on site), but my stomachlining was aching so I went for a soothingbowl of ice cream (three scoops for £3.50).

Hoping for refreshing, I got sweet andtangy instead in the form of one scoopof pear and vanilla (impressively it tastedexactly like plunging your teeth into afrozen pear), and two scoops of gooseberryand elderflower. Tart, zesty and buzzingwith sugar, it was good but might haveworked better as a sorbet.

Mum’s chocolate and orange tort (£5),was suitably decadent though, served withcream and red berries. Densely chocolatey,it hit the high end notes of the choc-orangeworld (Terry would be proud), but was atad heavy . . .

I’m sorry, I really do wish I could bemore enthusiastic – and as pub grub itdoesn’t fare too badly – but the problemis, everything is presented so smartly, sobeautifully, that with every bite I willedthe meal to be as slick and detailed as thedécor.

Perhaps I expected too much.

Awards time for pub

Pick up a picnic�ELLA WALKER visitsCambridge Brew House andis wowed by the vibe, but thefood not so much . . .

THE Black Bullin Balshamis one ofsix regionalfinalists inthe 2013Great BritishPub Awards,representingthe EastMidlands andEast Anglia inthe categoryof BestFreehouse.

Organised bythe leading trade magazine,The Publican’s MorningAdvertiser, the annual awardsrecognise the industry’s toplicensees and best pubs. Thewinner will be announced

on September 12.You can find out more

about The Black Bull – sisterpub to the award-winningRed Lion at Hinxton – atblackbull-balsham.co.uk

IF you’re looking tosoak up the last of theBritish summer rays,why not do it in Italianal fresco style witha Carluccio’s picnichamper?

Whether you’rerelaxing with friendsand family or treatinga loved one, there isa delicious hamper totickle your fancy – all packedwith regional Italian flavours.

The Classic Grown-upsHamper boasts a sumptuousthree-course meal startingwith Antipasti Misti (olives,balsamic onions, juicyartichokes, caper berriesand speck), followed by afresh pearl barley salad withbroccoli, rocket and toastedhazelnuts, and goats cheeseand red pepper tarts.

Next it’s summery chickensupreme with a parsley,breadcrumb and tarragon

crust,served with pesto, redonion and a spicy salamisalad.

All this is rounded off bytwo indulgent strawberry andbalsamic tarts.

Each picnic hamper isfreshly made on the day toserve two and costs £45.

There are vegetarianoptions too, and individualhampers for kids can bepurchased for £10.

You can visit Carluccio’s inGrand Arcade, Cambridge.

If only dinnerwas as goodas the decor

taste testThe Cambridge Brew House1 King Street, Cambridge, CB11LHTelephone: (01223) 855185Email: info@thecambridgebrewhouse.comWebsite:thecambridgebrewhouse.comRestaurant opening hours:Food is served from noon until9.30pm, Monday-Saturday. Roastdinner: Sunday, noon-9pm.Breakfast: Saturday and Sunday,10-11.30am.Cost: Dinner for two, includingdrinks, came to £42.85.Food: ���Service: �����Atmosphere: �����Value: ����