Jonathan CameronU1457383

Comparative Case Study

TDF1129

Contents

Front Cover - Page 1Contents - Page 2

Introduction - Page 3Exploratory Research - H&M - Page 4

Exploratory Research - Timberland - Page 5Price -Page 6Place - Page 7

Promotion - Page 8Product - Page 9

H&M SWOT Analysis - Page 10Timberland SWOT Analysis - Page 11

References - Page 12

Introduction

Sustainability in FashionSustainabilty in fashion is becoming a bigger and much more complex issue. Black, S, (2011. p.14) writes that “Clothing sales have increased by 60 percent in the past decade. We now consume one third more clothig than even four years ago”. The rapid increase in the consumptin of clothing means that companies should now start to look at their business operations to see how far they are able to clean up their production and retail activi-ties in order for the clothing market to become gen-tler on the environment. Black, S, (2011. p.14) asks some pertinent ques-tions, such as:• “How can consumers make a differene?”• “What ecologically sound choices are available

in fabrics?”• “How can fashion become more environmental-

ly and ethically sound?”This report hopes to address these questions by looking at two currently sustainable fashion retail-ers and highlighting their practises through a com-parative case study.

H&MThe first Hennes store opened in 1947 in Vasteras, Sweden, exclusively selling Women’s clothing. In 1968, the founder; Eric Persson, bought Mauritz Widforss, a hunting and fishing equipment store. This kickstarted the sales in Men’s and Children’s apparel and also marks the time of the brand name changing into Hennes and Mauritz. In 1976, after expansion across Scandinavia, the first store outside of the home region opened in London and the first New York store opened in 2000. By 2004, H&M collaborated with Karl Lager-feld and has since held many other collaborations with various designers including Stella McCart-ney, Jimmy Choo and Versace. Expansion into the Middle-East via franchise commenced in 2006, ce-menting Hennes and Mauritz as a global presence. (Hennes and Mauritz, n.d.)H&M are an extremely environmentally conscious retailer and have outlined a number of conscious actions. These include, increasing the use of more sustainable materials, using cotton that is only pro-duced from sustainable sources and using wool from only certified sources, (Hennes and Mauritz, n.d.).

TimberlandTimberland was first brought to life in the 1950’s when Nathan Swartz bought Abingdon Shoe Com-pany. Swartz started by buying half the company in 1952 and the remainder in 1955. The compa-ny, under Swartz’s leadership developed injection moulding technology in 1965, which allows the manufacture of boots without the requirement of stitching the sole to the upper of the boot. This makes them completely waterproof and was rev-elutionary. The Timberland brand was introduced in 1973 and the company name was changed in 1978. Having been listed as on of the top 100 countries to work for by Fortitude magazine for 5 years run-ning by Fortitude magazine between 1997 and 2002, Timberland continued to grow their socially respobsible reputation by disclosing all the names and locatinos of their factories worldwide in their corporate social responsibility report. In 2006, Timberland introduced new environmentally friendlier packaging for all footwear and the brand was acquired by VF Corporation in 2011.(Timberland, 2013)

Aims and ObjectivesOne of the key areas that this case study will look at is how each company uses envonmentally conscious strategies and how they po-sition themselves within the four areas of the marketing mix. Their eco-friendly vision should infuence how the company operates on a day to day basis and how they communicate with their customers. A SWOT analysis will then be conducted to highlight the strengths and weaknesses between the two companies and also see how better they can market and operate going forward.

Exploratory Research - H&M

Financial InformationBetween December 2013 and November 2014, net sales in the H&M Group increased by 18% to SEK 151,419 (Swedish Currency). Profit after tax was SEK 19, 976 (Swedish currency). This is a 17% increase on the pre-vious year. The H&M Group saw strong expansion dur-ing the year with a total net addition of 379 new stores. The largest expansion markets were China and the US. At the end of the fi-nancial year the number of stores amounted to 3,511 stores in 55 markets.

StrategyH&M’S main business concept is centred around offering fashionable clothing at the best possible price in every available market. The best price is achieved by in-house design, no middle man with regards to distribution to the customer, purchasing large volumes, buying the right products from the right markets, efficient logistics and cost consciousness throughout all parts of the organisation. H&M do not own any factories. Instead they create long term partnerships with suppliers with whom they purchase large orders from. By always being aware of costs at every stage, H&M can offer the best prices in the markets that they compete in. This allows them to create price-centred value for customers. Local CommunitiesH&M source from over 900 suppliers and 1900 factories. They have 19 production offices around the wrold which help maintain good long term relationships with their partners and are committed to improving the working lives of the factory staff. H&M conduct thousands of un-nannounced factory audits each year and hold interviews with the factory staff to ensure they know their working rights and how their wages are calculated. They also provide positive incentives for factories to ensure that continual improvements are always being done. H&M are also using their global influene to help abolish child labour. In 2004 they partnered up with UNICEF and provided funding and ad-ditional support for those affected by child labour. So far they have reached out to over 1 million children and adults that have been affected

Figure 1: Shows the closed loop production system that H&M are leading the way on. The idea is to col-lect old clothes and re use them and repurpose them into new garments. H&M run a garment collction service and are current-ly able to turn 20% of old materials into yarns that can be blended for new products without the loss of quality or longevity. H&M (n.d.) states that “It’s the quickest and easiest way for our industry to dramatically reduce how many resources we use, and how much material goes to landfill”.

“We want to make conscious choices in fashion desir-able and easily accessible for as many people as possi-ble. The right choice should be an easy and attractive one. Piece by piece this will reduce the impacts that fashion has on the planet”.Hennes and Mauritz (n.d.)

Organic Wool Organic Hemp

Exploratory Research - Timberland

Figure 2: Shows the breakdown of renewable energy consumption. From 2006 to 2013, Tim-berland have managed to increase their renewable energy consumption by 20.17% with a goal to increase this to 30% in 2015.

Figure 3: Shows a breakdown of Timberlands greenhouse gas emissions. By 2015 Timberland have a target of reducing their greenhouse gas emissions to 14,645 metric tons of carbon emis-sions. A target that has been very nearly hit in 2013.

StrategyTimberland is a well known retailer of sturdy outdoor clothing, and therefore they have adopted a strategy of both commerce and justice. Timberland realise that their core customer is conscious of the environmental impact that the production of clothes make, therefore they have become committed to reducing their carbon footprint and helping out local communities. By investing in renewable energy resources and socially responsible behaviour they hope to achieve their long term goal of turning over increasingly healthy profits. Investment into renewable energy should help them reduce production costs in the long term whilst customers should be attracted to Timberlands caring and socially responsible image, driving sales. Local CommunitiesTimberland currently has a sustainable living environment program which is committed to improving the lives of its factory workers that supply the products. They have employed a supplier sustainability team that go out into the factories and help them achieve a realistic and manageable work and home life balance. 60% of workday time is lost due to occupational stress and it is the supplier sustainability team’s responsibility to help manage this.Timberland is also committed to helping factory workers in India obtain good quality and reliable childcare. Timberland opened an early year’s community centre for its factory workers in Chennai, this focused on developing the children’s social and physical well being as well as supporting cognitive and emotional development. Timberland provided all initial funding and equipment.

Financial InformationRevenue has increased from 7.2 Billion Dol-lars on 2009 to 11.4 Billion Dollars in 2013. Net sales in 2013 were $11,302,350 this is a $1,936,873 increase from $9,365,477 in 2011 (VF Corpoation). Global Revenues for Timberland were up 5% in 2013, the sales in Europe had also sta-bilized folloiwing the uncertain economic climate. 60% of Timberland’s revenue was taken outside of the United States and they have an expected revenue income of 2.3 Bil-lion in 2017.

Price

H&MThe price for a pair of regular fit-ting jeans at H&M is £14.99. This is consistent with H&M’s business concept which aims to provide fashionable clothing at the lowest possible price. Mintel (2014) states that “The group’s retail proposition is based on delivering ‘fashion and quality at the best price’. Its retail stores are pitched as fashion destinations for consumers looking for both chic and basic clothing at affordable prices.The price links in well with its fast fashion positioning and is very competitive alongside the likes of similar fast fashion brands like Top-man, River Island and Forever 21.

TimberlandTimberland by comparison are much more expensive with the cheapest jeans being retailed at £70. This could be due to the fac that the brand has more of a focus on quali-ty rather than fast fashion. Timberland has a very strong brand positioning that goes beyond the outdoor wear that they sell. Their whole brand image is centred around strength and durablility and this is reflected in the strength and durability of thier products. The longevity of Timberland’s prod-ucts easily allow much more value for the customers, because they last longer and don’t have to be replaced. This justifues the higher price tag.

A Direct Price Comparison of a Pair of Jeans

H&M are price concsious throughout all apects of the comapny, which allows them to become competitive on price. Buying in large volumes will allow for economies of scale, meaning that orders become cheaper from suppliers when large orders are secured. By monitoring markets, they also ensure that they are buying the right products from the right markets which allows for cost savings.

Within its sports ranges, Timberland has been innovating in order to improve the quality of their products and provide differentiation. Mintel (2014) re-ports that Timberland has adopted P2i’s ion-mask technology, which allows thier range of golfing shoes to be completely water repellent. By adding value through innovation, Timberland are able to charge a highe price.

Place

H&MExpansionH&M operate in 48 countries around the globe and are extremely success-ful across Europe, more so in Germany than in their host country, Sweden. Hennes and Mauritz’s overall strategy is to increase the store portfolio across all brands by 10 to 15% each year, with sales growing in proportion with this. Instead of owning collateral, H&M choose to rent out retail space, which keeps them flexible to changing consumer shopping habits regarding location. How-ever, retail space in prime locations is known for being notoriously expensive and therefore this can be a risky strategy. H&M have had to operate in some countries under a franchise, such as India. Although this isn’t part of their strategy overall, its trhe only way to easily enter some market. In India, organic growth into the market and company acquisitons are severely restricted, Hennes and Mauritz. (n.d.). DistributionMost of H&M’s distributon is managed by decentalized logistics centres that support the stores within their geographical range. H&M stores do not have back up stock and are replenished as required by the logistics and distribution centres. This will help the stores keep less cluttered and more organised. Also, by senidng in the stock that is selling through, H&M can keep their product offering tailored to customer wants, driving sales. TransportIn 2012 around 90% of transport done by Hennes and Maritz was carried out by rail or sea. The company strives to avoid air travel at all costs, helping im-prove their carbon footprint. The company also strives to work with more environmentally friendly transport companies which helps develop their en-virnmentally brand image.

TimberlandExpansionTimberland have two expansion strategies that they use. They have invested in speciality stores across the world in order to expand their store portfo-lio. Organic growth into foriegn markets is both costly and time consuming, particularly when researching effective sites for setting up stores. Therefore Timberland have complimented their organic growth straegy with the imple-mentation of concessions in higher end department stores across the world. Concessions are a low cost entry strategy into foreign marlets, however it doesn’t provide Timberland woth much control over footfall, so choosing the right seites to set up concessions in is key, Vault. (2015).TransportWithin VF Corporation’s sustainability report, they mention that 70% of all products transported as sent via sea travel, 25% are taken via the VF Corpora-tions vehicle fleet and only 5% is taken through air travel. In order to make their vehicle fleet more sustainable. VF Corporation has in-vested heavily into finding fuel efficient alternatives for the lorries and have also invested into improving the aerodynamics of their vehicles, meaning that the fuel put into the fleet should last longer. in theory this should help reduce the corporation’s costs on transport in the longer term. VF Corporation. (2014)VF corporation have also imporved the space effiency of their shipping con-tainers. A statement taken from the VF Corporation’s sustainability report says “We have also introduced improvements to container utilization in sea freight – standardizing existing cartons and creating new cartons with optimized di-mensions – enabling us to maximize the use of container space and eliminate more than one million transit miles over the past four years”. VF Corporation. (2014)

Promotion

Timberland - Best then Better nowIn 2013, Timberland introduced a new advertising strategy - “Best then, Better now”. The strategy behind the “Best then, better now campaign is to attract the younger “millennial” audience. To do this the Timberland brand needs to move the brand image into something more contemporary whilst retaining the company’s strong green heritage. Focus will be put on buidling a Timberland lifestyle rather than just being con-centrated on becoming a strong footwear provider. Communication will be fo-cused on portraying the Timberland products as something that can be worn in towns and cities for a number of different occasions whist retaining strong outdoor credibility. Over the past couple of years Timberland have entered themselves on to a number of different social media platforms including; Facebook, Twitter, Pin-terest and Tumblr, allowing them greater scope for reaching out to the young-er, more digitally competent Millenials. In 2014 Timberland launched the “Ready for anything” campaign along its Fall 2014 collection, which see’s a number of young people engaging in all aspects of city life whilst wearing Timberland gear. This continues the activities of the “Best then Better Now” strategy, showing how Timberland can still be fash-ionable and relevant whilst retaining the brand’s heritage.

H&M - CoachellaFollowing last year, H&M has extended its partner-ship with Coachella Music Festival by offering a col-laborative collection for 2015. The collection will feature instore from late March and will be availa-ble to shop from a pop - up store at the festival. Prices will range from £2.99 to £29.99, Elle UK (2015).

The Coachella collection is suggestive that H&M knows that it’s target audience is primarily younger males and females, mainly of student age. By using a behav-ioural segmentation strategy, H&M have targeted their customer and brought out a collection that relflects their summer life style and modest budget. The pop -up store is a fun and engaging way for customers to interact with the col-lection and has the ability to create a tangible, memorable experience.

H&M-Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Benefit 2015H&M collaborated with Sarah Jessica Parker and creat-ed a custom designed outfit for her for the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Benefit. the theme was “China, through the Looking Glass” and the outfit was a one shouldered black dress in silk. The dress had a train embroidered with scarlett poppies and the outfit also in-cluded a fabric panel, containing a patchwork of sustaina-ble fabrics. The fabric panel was used to highlight H&M’s dedication to helping the environment and increasing the companies sustainability.

Product

H&M - Stance on Cotton UseH&M is the biggest user of organic cotton in the world. Organic Cotton is grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and contains no genetically modified organisms. On some of their products, H&M have started using recycled cotton. “Recy-cled cotton comes from old garments and textile leftovers, which are grinded into fibre, spun into new yarns and weaved into new fabrics” Hennes and Mauritz ,(n.d.). All recycled cotton that is used by H&M is stated on garment labels and has to be checked thoroughly by a third party before being allowed to be marketed as such. As a member of the BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) H&M are able to provide knowledge and support for farmers in order to grow more organic and sus-tainable cotton without the aid of foreign chemicals. “A BCI farmer uses less water and chemicals, cares for the soil and natural habitats, and promotes good working conditions on his land” Hennes and Mauritz ,(n.d.).

TimberlandTimberland - Product CustomizationTimberland has followed in the footsteps of other established footwear brands such as Converse and Nike and has enabled customers to customize their own boots to suit personal tastes. Titlow (2011), reports that “technology itself has become more advanced, allowing businesses to build sophisticated, yet easy-to-use interfaces (or “configurators”) from which consumers can co-create products”. As technology advances, customers will be able to interact more with products and this help build a relationship with the brand. Brand’s like timberland can be more flexible to the individual tastes of customrs, this wil help customers see more value in Timberland.

Timberland - EarthkeepersIn 2007, Timberland launched the “Earthkeepers” collection of shoes. These shoes are primarily made with recycled plastic bottles. Currently on the Tim-berland shopping site, there are 459 different pairs of shoes made from re-cyclyed plastic bottles. Timberland has gone even further into innovating by developing their own fabric for the shoes from the bottles called ReCanvas™, through partnership with a weaving specialist, Timberland (2015).

Figure 4: Shows the breakdown in material

types used in Timberland’s

Footwear range.

H&MH&M – David Beckham CollaborationDavid Beckham has just released a Modern Essentials collection for H&M. This involved Beckham picking out his favourite pieces from the H&M Spring Es-sentials 2015 collection. This created a modern capsule collection for H&M, which Beckham modelled for the campaign. By utilising a popular figure in the media, H&M can hope to achieve an upswing in the sales of their modern essentials collection due to the increased public relation pieces. Beckham’s presence will attract huge media attention and may drive sales.

SWOT Analysis - H&M

Strengths• H&M offer fast fashion at a competitive price within the market against

threats such as Topman and River Island. • Have gathered a strong celebrity portfolio helping them boost their brand

image.• They have worked with many designers in the past, including: Karl Lager-

feld, Stella McCartney and Jimmy Choo, this helps create more percieved value for the customer by having links to the luxury fashion market.

• They know their target audience (mainly 16-25’s) well and are well versed in knowing how to target them. For example setting up a pop-up store at the Coachella festival suggests that they know how their target market be-have and how they like to spend their time.

Opportunities• In order to increase awareness of H&M’s sustainabilty initiatives the com-

pany could potentially invest with a celebrity endorser who could help pro-mote the brands dedication to helping the environment and wider world, this could help H&M differerntiate themselves further within a saturated market.

• Create more of a sustainable image within their store environments. By us-ing sustainable materials to decorate the store, H&M can have a full retail portfolio that fully communicates to the customer the full business con-cept.

• Having more instore communications that communicate to the customer how many achievements have been made by the help of H&M worldwide.

Weaknesses• H&M have been criticized in the past for reportedly exploiting labour in

Bangladesha and Uzbekistan. A young 12 year old labour force was appar-ently made up to work up to 14 hour days, working with cotton. Bad press like the could severely hamper H&M’s sustainability reputation.

• Being so price competitive could mean that some consumers see H&M as offering a lower quality product offering.

• In comparison with the likes of Topshop, River Island and Zara, H&M’s store interiors can be quite plain, this doesn’t help make a customers shopping experience memorable.

Threats• Not having any collateral is a risky strategy when H&M operate in so

many markets with precarious economic structures. If costs were to rise or demand was to decline due to economic conditions. H&M could find themselves losing retail space.

• Zara offer’s strong copetiton to H&M. Zara have a well embedded, verti-cally intergrated supply chain that means they can stay extremely trend driven. They also have a boutique like layout that provides a unique fast -fashion shopping experience.

SWOT Analysis - Timberland

Strengths• Timberland have a strong brand positioning as a retailer that provides qual-

ity and durability in their products and have carved a niche for themselves within this as a solid working boot.

• Timberland have strong pricing power, the superior amount of durability within the products helps justify the high end retail prices.

• Allowing the customization of the boots helps customers interact with the Timberland brand, helping to drive sales and also helping the product to become more than a working boot.

• Unlike H&M, Timberland have a strong retail environment that communi-cates both the outdoor use for the products and the brand’s commitment to sustainability, providing a strong and individual positioning.

Weaknesses• Because Timberland have quite a strong brand heritage, it may become

more difficult for them to attract new audiences to their products. • The price points are quite high meaning that the mass market may prefer

to buy similar products from a fast fashion retailer. • Timberland were recently taken over by VF Corporations. The new acqui-

sition may mean that VF Corporation are still making changes to the brand which will make it more difficult to communicate brand image effectively.

• Timberland’s philosophy is at the very heart of what they do, meaning that it isn’t widely publicized. This could mean that their corporate, so-cial responsibility image could be somewhat lost among some consumers who are unfamiliar with the brand.

Opportunities• Timberland could follow in H&M’s footsteps and take to monitoring the

prices of raw materials in all international markets, meaning that produc-tion becomes more cost effective, allowing Timberland to become more price flexible.

• Celebrity endorsement could provide some hype around the brand, some-one like Bear Gryll’s would be perfect as he represents the Timberland life-style completely and is perfectly marketable for the mass market.

Threats• Timberland faces extremely tough competition in the Outdoor wear sec-

tor from established International brands such as Nike. • The current economic uncertainty means that for many, Timberland’s

prices could be seen as unreachable.

Conclusion

Overall H&M have a strong brand offering within the fast fashion market. Their prices remain affordable for their target audience of young adults (16 – 25 age bracket) and this is one of the main drivers of their success. By keeping their strategy full cost conscious, H&M have managed to use their affordability in order to differentiate themselves within a saturated marketplace. However H&M must take care that their prices aren’t set too low. Easey, M, (2009. P.179) states that “Setting price levels too low may send confused messages and alienate some buyers who feel that the product may be poorly made”. Alienating buyers could lose H&M valuable custom and market share. Saying this H&M have managed to create extra value within their product offering by collaborating with luxury designer such as Karl Lagerfeld. This gives the product range a much-needed injection of prestige, which helps keep perceptions of quality high. Coupled with the affordability of the brand; H&M have a very strong product offering. The closed production loop is particularly innovative and is a realistic way of making sure that natural resources aren’t exploited, however the yarn recovery still only stands at 20%, highlighted that development on this idea is still needed. It is here that lies a possible opportunity for H&M. Investing further into the closed production loop and increasing the recyclable yield from old garments could be a prefect way for H&M to lead the way in sustainable fashion and truly differentiate themselves from their fast fashion competitors. However, H&M could also be missing an opportunity to promote their good practices within their retail environment. By investing in more recyclable materials and in store advertising to adorn their stores in, H&M could further develop their brand image into a solid eco-friendly retailer within the eyes of the customer. This would also help mitigate the effects of some bad publicity that may be lingering. Facing Finance (n.d.), writes that “A German TV program entitled “Your Cheap Fashion – Our Misery” has reportedly featured H&M’s links to child labour and labour exploitation in Uzbekistan and Bangladesh”. By promoting the good that they have done, H&M can help dissolve the bad publicity.

Timberland are known for excellent product quality and durability and they have a strong history of producing quality boots suitable for both work and leisure. The ability to customize boots to suit individual customer needs also shows flexibility to customer’s wants. Timberland also has a high level of innovation within their boots, their own developed fabric “ReCanvas” shows a solid commitment to improving the sustainability of the brand. However Timberland maybe capital-izing on their boots at the expense of their other product categories. Perhaps by investing more in the marketing and developing of other product categoroies, Timberland will be able to strengthen their overall prodeuct offering. The brand has a dedicated and ambitious sustainabilty plan which helps them maintain a strong, positive PR image. Easey, (2009. p226) says that, “Public Rela-tions is about reputation - the result of what you do, what you say and what others say about you”. Strategies such as Sustainable Living Environment program that Timberland run, continue to contribute to the overall caring reputation that Timberland hold. Unlike H&M, what Timberland do well is project their sustain-able image into their retail environment. Varley, R, (2014. p172) notes that, “the use of reclaimed wood, stone, metal and leather suggests a journey through the outdoors”. This shows how the store environment is constantly projecting what is at the heart of Timberland. On the other hand, what Timberland could do more of is publicise their ecologial achievements. Wider publication could entice in new buyers who are looking for quality and integrity within their clothing products. A celebrity endorsement could also help Timberland stimulate sales. Bear Gryll’s has been suggested as a solid choice because of his extreme outdoor lifestyle and commitment to preserving the world’s natural wonders. Bringing in a celebrity would create some much needed hype around the brand.

References

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VF Corporation. (2013). Timberland Brand Revenue, Investor Relations. Retrieved from http://reporting.vfc.com/2013/timberland/index.html.