Chain Maille Projects

4 fun CHAIN MAIL

projects

2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

magazine

Half-Byzantine

Hoop EarringsGive hoop earrings a new grace by using a half-

Byzantine chain mail pattern to link them.

by John Fetvedt

beginner

chain mail

AN EASY TRIPLE LOOP

Funky, swinging hoop earrings have cycled in and out of fashion for as long as people have been wearing jewelry. This new take on the trend moves

toward a more subtle style, with three

larger hoops linked in a tapered shape by

half of a Byzantine chain pattern. Its the

gauge of the larger jump rings that allows

them to fit inside the connecting rings, so

if you want a bolder look, you can increase

the diameters of the larger rings as much

as you wish as long as you keep their

gauge the same.

Link three jump rings with half of a Byzantine chain pattern to make a new variation on graduated hoops. 212 in. (64 mm) long.

www.ArtJewelryMag.com 1

Close two 6.5 mm inside-diameter (ID) jump rings, two 9.5 mm ID jump rings, and two 13 mm ID jump rings (for tips on open-ing and closing jump rings, go to www.artjewelrymag.com and click on How To and then Wirework) [1]. To give your completed earrings a more finished look, permanently close the cuts in these jump rings by fusing or soldering them shut. (For instructions on fusing and soldering jump rings, see Fuse or Solder? right.)

Thread one 3 mm ID jump ring onto one of the 13 mm rings and close it; repeat with another 3 mm ring. Thread a 3 mm ring through the first pair of 3 mm rings and close it; repeat with a second 3 mm ring [2].

Flip the second pair of 3 mm rings back, one to each side of the first pair. Insert a needle tool or small pick above the 13 mm ring to hold the first pair of rings apart and expose the second pair of rings [3].

Insert a 3 mm ring alongside the needle

fuse or solder?You dont need a complex torch setup to fuse or solder jump rings a handheld butane torch and a soldering surface will do. Relatively inexpensive butane torches are available at most hardware stores. For basic information on working with torches, go to www.artjewelrymag.com, click on How To, and then Metals, and then Soldering.

If your jump rings are made of Argentium Sterling Silver or fine silver, you can either fuse or solder them. (I find that fusing the rings results in a smoother seam.) If your jump rings are made of sterling silver or gold they can only be soldered.

To fuse your jump rings, first close them, making sure that the ends are aligned and tightly abutting each other. (For tips on opening and closing jump rings, go to www.artjewelrymag.com and click on How To and then Wirework.) Lay the rings on a soldering pad or firebrick with the cuts facing toward you.

Working on one ring at a time, gently heat the whole ring by moving your torch in a circular motion, then concentrate the point of the flame on the cut. When the area on either side of the cut turns cloudy, the metal is almost hot enough to fuse, so get ready to move the torch away. As soon as the metal at the join becomes shiny and the join appears somewhat less defined, remove the torch.

The join may not disappear completely, but the ring will be fused. If youre using Argentium sterling, let the rings cool a bit before you quench them; Argentium sterling is somewhat fragile when its hot.

To solder your jump rings, first close them, making sure the ends are aligned and tightly abutting each other. Lay the rings on a soldering pad or firebrick, with the cuts facing away from you. Dab a small amount of paste solder to the inside of each cut. Turn the board or brick so that the cuts are facing you.

Working on one ring at a time, gently heat the whole ring; then concentrate the tip of the flame on the cut. The solder will melt and move toward the heat of the torch. Remove the torch as soon as the solder has flowed into the join.

materialsJump rings:

20-gauge (0.8 mm), 3 mm inside diameter (ID), 3216-gauge (1.3 mm), 6.5 mm ID, 216-gauge (1.3 mm), 9.5 mm ID, 216-gauge (1.3 mm), 13 mm ID, 2

Pair of ear wires

tools & suppliesPliers: 2 pairs of chainnose, bentnose, or flatnose Needle tool or pickTorch station (optional): torch, paste solder (medium), soldering pad or

firebrick, pickle pot with pickle, flux, copper tongs, pickTumbler, steel shot, burnishing compound (optional)

See Safety Basics by clicking on How To at www.artjewelrymag.com.

suppliersJump rings (Precious Maille, 206.973.7023, www.preciousmaille.com; Rio Grande, 800.545.6566, www.riogrande.com)Handheld butane torch (local hardware store)

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www.ArtJewelryMag.com

tool. Slide a 9.5 mm ring onto the 3 mm ring, and close the 3 mm ring. Remove the needle tool, and thread and close a second 3 mm ring alongside the first one [4].

Thread two 3 mm rings onto the 9.5 mm ring and close them. Thread two more 3 mm rings through the previous pair and close them. Flip the second pair of rings back, one to each side of the first pair. Insert the needle tool above the 9.5 mm ring to hold the first pair apart and expose the second pair [5].

Insert a 3 mm ring alongside the needle tool. Slide a 6.5 mm ring onto the 3 mm ring, and close the 3 mm ring. Remove the needle tool, and thread and close a second 3 mm ring alongside the first one [6].

Thread two 3 mm rings onto the 6.5 mm ring and close them. Thread two more 3 mm rings through the previous pair and close them. Flip the second pair of rings back, one to each side of the first pair. Insert the needle tool to hold the first pair apart and expose the second pair. Open the loop of an ear wire and insert the loop alongside the needle tool. Close the loop and remove the needle tool [7].

Repeat to make a matching earring. It is important that you start each earring with the 13 mm rings so that the direction of the Byzantine pattern will be the same on both earrings.

Burnish your earrings in a tumbler with steel shot and burnishing compound, if

desired (for instructions on tumbling, go to www.artjewelrymag.com and click on How To and then Finishing).

colorcombinationsFor a silver-and-gold look, use gold-filled jump rings for either the 3 mm inside-diameter connecting rings or for the larger rings. If you plan to close the cuts in your gold-filled rings, youll need to solder them shut instead of fusing them. When youre soldering, use gold paste solder of the same karat as your gold-filled jump ring in order to avoid having a jump ring that sports two different colors of gold.

To add unexpected color to your earrings, try using ano-dized titanium, niobium, or aluminum for your 3 mm connecting rings.

John Fetvedt works primarily with silver, gold, and titanium in such techniques as anticlastic forming, casting, chain making, etching, fold-forming, forging, and stone setting. He teaches chain making and chain mail classes at The Crafts Center at North Carolina State University, the William Holland School of Lapidary Arts in Young Harris, Ga., The ArtsCenter in Carrboro, N.C., the Interweave Bead Fest shows, and for the Southeast Federation of Mineralogical Societies and the Eastern Federation of Mineralogical and Lapidary Societies. Three of his designs are projects in Chain Mail Jewelry: Contemporary Designs from Classic Techniques, by Terry Taylor and Dylon Whyte.

Pro

cess ph

oto

s by J

oh

n Fetved

t.

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6 7

For variety, try combining silver and gold-filled jump rings.



by Scott David Plumlee

I developed this chain in 2002 when I was seeking to create new, lightweight designs to appeal to buyers who might be put off by the weight of many chain mail patterns. Through trial and error, I struck on a design that balanced the simplicity of single, heavier rings with a more complex overlapping pattern

of finer rings. This design uses four gauges of wire, all balanced and in

harmony. Unlike many chain mail designs, this finished chain has a

definite front side and back side, because the interlocking infinity

pattern is added only on one side of the chain.

beginner

chain mail

2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

Infinity EASY CHAIN MAIL

onlineexclusive

Chain Mail Pattern

Link four different wire gauges in a simple, lightweight chain

design with endless appeal.


Make the base chain. Close all the 5.5 mm and 4.5 mm jump rings, making sure that theyre closed flush and that they lie flat. (For a quick video tutorial on opening and closing jump rings, go to www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.)

Use a flat file to remove any burs from the outside of the jump rings and a round file to remove any burs from the inside of the jump rings.

Assemble the base chain by using pairs of 3.5 mm jump rings to link all of the 4.5 mm and 5.5 mm jump rings in an alternating pattern [1].

Add the small infinity pattern. Thread a 3.0 mm jump ring through the pair of 3.5 mm rings on the left side of the first 4.5 mm ring [2].

Thread another 3.0 mm ring through the pair of 3.5 mm rings on the right side of the same 4.5 mm ring, and through the 3.0 mm ring you just added [3].

The two interlocking 3.0 mm rings create an overlapping infinity pattern. Repeat until youve added an interlocking infinity pattern over each of the 4.5 mm rings in the chain.

forge your own S-claspFor a quick video tutorial on forging an S-clasp, go to www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.

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2

1Scott David Plumlee has been creating silver chain jewelry for the past decade, originating

over 70 chain designs. He researched ancient chain designs while traveling through 32 countries on four continents. He is the author of Handcrafting Chain and Bead Jewelry, and has taught classes and workshops throughout the U.S.


4

5

6

Add the large infinity pattern. Thread a 3.5 mm ring through the pair of 3.5 mm jump rings on the left side of the second 5.5 mm jump ring [4].

Add a second 3.5 mm ring through the pair of 3.5 mm rings on the right side of the same 5.5 mm ring, and through the 3.5 mm ring you just added [5].

Repeat until youve added an interlock-ing infinity pattern over all but the end two 5.5 mm jump rings [6].

Add the clasp. Open the 5.5 mm ring at one end of the chain, thread an S-clasp on it, then close the ring [7]. The 5.5 mm ring at the other end of the chain will serve as the clasps catch-ring.

Pro

cess

ph

oto

s b

y S

cott

Dav

id P

lum

lee.

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materialsSterling silver jump rings:

12, 14-gauge (1.6 mm), round, 5.5 mm inside diameter (ID)11, 16-gauge (1.3 mm), round, 4.5 mm ID64, 18-gauge (1.0 mm), round, 3.5 mm ID22, 20-gauge (0.8 mm), round, 3.0 mm ID

S-clasp: hand forged or premade

tools & supplies2 pairs of pliers: chainnose or flatnoseFiles: flat, round

suppliersJump rings (www.spiderchain.com, www.urbanmaille.com)

6

CChainchainmail

beginner

Link a collection of jump rings in different sizes, shapes, and materials to create this delicate chainmail bracelet

by Amy Robleski

hainmail has a reputation for being hefty and masculine. If you were a medieval knight, youd want your chainmail to be beefy and businesslike. After all, the armor might be the only barrier

between your tender flesh and an enemys sword. Modern jewelry artists have discovered how to make chainmail that is far more delicate and decorative, by joining jump rings in different sizes, gauges, and materials. The design possibilities are virtually limitless, ranging from stout chokers and formidable cuffs to the airy mixed-metal bracelet featured here.

Time constraints often make it impossible to finish a project in just one sitting, but this piece wont leave you short on satisfaction, even if youre forced to put it down. Its meant to be created in three easy stages. In fact, if you like the way the bracelet looks after the first or second stage, you can simply stop and wear it as-is.

If youve never made chainmail before, see Basics, page 84, for tips on opening and closing jump rings.

Short on time? Create a

chainmail bracelet from copper and sterling-silver jump rings in three easy stages.

concoction


concoction

1 2 3 4

5 6

7

8 9

1110

8

Part 1 Make a three-strand braceletDetermine your bracelets length. To estimate the number of copper jump rings you will need, measure your wrist and subtract the length of your clasp. Multiply this length by 9. A perfect fit is not essential for this bracelet because the clasps extender makes it adjustable. For the number of oval, sterling-silver jump rings that your bracelet will require, multiply the length by 11. For the number of round, sterling-silver jump rings, multiply the length by 3.

These equations overestimate the quantities in case a jump ring becomes deformed or marred. (See Avoid marring your jump rings, right.) The chainmail portion of the bracelet shown measures 5 in. (14.61cm): 48 copper jump rings, 60 oval jump rings, and 16 round jump rings were used.

[1] Open the copper jump rings. Open all the copper jump rings using two pairs of chainnose or bentnose pliers. Do not open the jump rings more than halfway.

[2] Securely close the oval jump rings. Set aside three oval jump rings for every inch of your bracelets length. Securely close the rest of the oval jump rings by rotating the pliers back and forth until the ends of the jump rings are as aligned as possible. If desired, use jump-ringclosing pliers to further secure the join.

[34] Attach jump rings to the clasp. Slide a closed oval jump ring onto an open copper jump ring. Attach the copper jump ring to a loop on the three-strand clasp [3]. Close the copper jump ring. Repeat this for the remaining clasp loops [4].

[56] Continue the chain pattern. Attach a copper jump ring to the last oval jump ring from the previous row and to a new oval jump ring. Close the copper jump ring. Repeat this step for all three rows [5]. Continue alternating between copper and oval jump rings until you have reached your desired length. Its best to work on all the rows continually rather than

completing one row at a time. End the pattern with oval jump rings [6].

[7] Attach the remaining half of the clasp. Attach a copper jump ring to the last oval jump ring, then to the corresponding loop on the remaining half of the clasp. Make sure your bracelet lies flat and straight when you do this; otherwise, the chains could become twisted. This is the first stopping point in the bracelets construction.

Part 2 Add round jump rings Open the round jump rings. Open all the round jump rings.

[89] Attach the round jump rings. Using your dominant hand, carefully grasp one of the round jump rings with one pair of pliers. Holding the bracelet in your nondominant hand, align the first row of copper jump rings, and use the pliers to slide the round jump ring through all three copper jump rings [8]. Carefully close the jump ring. Working from the same side of the bracelet, continue to attach round jump rings to the rest of the copper rows until you have finished all the rows [9]. This is the second stopping point in the bracelets construction.

Part 3 Add oval jump rings Open the oval jump rings. Open all the remaining oval jump rings.

[1011] Attach the oval jump rings. Start on the same side of the bracelet as you did when you attached the round jump rings. As with the round jump rings, grasp one oval jump ring with one pair of pliers and slide it through the first row of oval jump rings [10]. Close the jump ring. Continue this pattern until you have finished all the rows [11]. Your bracelet is now complete.

avoid marring your jump rings

Beginners may notice that their pliers leave indentations and scratches on the sides of jump rings as they open and close them. why does this happen? The jaws of the pliers are made of metal that is harder than the metal that the jump rings are made of. When you squeeze the pliers tightly, you push the jaws of the pliers into the jump rings, leaving marks.

how can I avoid this?Keep your jump rings smooth by working with them gently. As you gain more experience opening and closing jump rings, youll become comfortable exerting the right amount of pressure without marring the metal.

You can also purchase pliers with softer jaws, such as nylon-jaw pliers. Many jewelry artists cushion their pliers by wrapping the jaws with masking tape. In the photos shown, the pliers are covered with Tool Magic rubber coating. (See Resources, page 92.)

materials Three-strand clasp with extender chain,

sterling-silver Jump rings:

Copper: 20-gauge, 5mm round, 5081 rings Sterling-silver: 16-gauge, 5.3 x 3.2mm oval, 6199 rings Sterling-silver: 18-gauge, 2.5mm round, 1727 rings

tools & supplies 2 pairs of chainnose or bentnose pliers Jump-ringclosing pliers (optional) Nylon-jaw pliers (optional) Tool Magic rubber coating (optional)

10www.ArtJewelryMag.com

Whip up

Start with a mandrel to master this chain mail pattern in four easy steps.

by Esther Lee

ProjectBeginner | Chain mail11

Getting started is the only tricky part about this chain; once youve established the pattern, its quick and easy to make.

an Open Round Chain mail Pattern

T his chain is pretty enough to wear alone, but its also great to use as a backdrop for large-bail pendants or large-hole beads. Once you start the open round pattern, its easy to execute; the jump rings you need to join are easy to spot and easy to thread, and your chain will grow quickly. The trick is getting started; round chains are difficult to handle in the early stages because they can collapse, and if you drop the chain, it can be difficult to determine the proper end rings. Luckily, I have a neat trick that simplifies the early stages of the process. So, you should have a finished chain long enough for a bracelet in a couple of hours; if youd rather have a necklace, just keep going!

ac

b

a

cba

c

b

materialsSterling silver jump rings: 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 45 mm (5 323 16-in.) inside diameter Sterling silver wire: 18- or 20-gauge (1.0 mm or 0.8 mm), 8 in. (20.3 cm)End caps: 2S-hook clasp

toolbox, page 76Chain mail

additional tools & supplies

Nylon-reinforced tapeMandrel: 8 mm (5 16-in.) diameterJump ring maker (optional)Wire cutters

Find out where to buy supplies, page 79See Safety Basics, page 77

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2 3

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Videos & BasicsCheck out these bonus tutorials for fundamental techniques used to make this project:

Opening and closing a jump ring B Using a jump ring maker Making a wrapped loop B Making an S-hook clasp (looped or hammered ends)

Videos, www.

artjewelrymag.com/videos


EDITORS NOTE : For this project, Esther Lee made her own jump rings, using half-hard wire wound around a 4 mm (532-in.) mandrel; due to the spring factor, the inside diameter (ID) of her finished jump rings is larger than the size of the mandrel she wound them on. If youre buying premade jump rings, get jump rings that have an ID of 4.5 mm or 5 mm.

Secure the starter jump rings. Cut a piece of -in. (6.5 mm) nylon-reinforced tape, approximately 1 in. (38 mm) long. Place the tape sticky-side up on your work surface. Close three jump rings B , and place them on the tape so that half of each ring extends above the tape [1]. Press the rings firmly to the tape so that they stick.

Wrap the tape around the end of an 8 mm (5 16-in.) mandrel [2] so that the exposed ends of the rings extend above the mandrel.

NOTE: If you have a jump ring maker , you can use one of the steel mandrels that came as part of the set. You can also use a ballpoint pen or a wooden dowel; I use a segment I cut from an 8 mm (U.S. size 11) aluminum knitting needle. The size of your mandrel is determined by the size of the rings youre using; three rings should fit evenly around the mandrels perimeter. If youre using larger rings, youll need a larger mandrel.

When youre buying wire for making jump rings, the choice between dead-soft and half-hard temper can be confusing. I always use half-hard wire to make my jump rings. Because the wire is harder to begin with, I dont need to tumble-polish the finished chain to work-harden it. Also, because the jump rings made from half-hard wire are a little stiffer, theyre less likely to bend out of shape when Im opening and closing them.

I use dead-soft wire to make my jump rings only if Im braiding or weaving multiple strands of wire. In that case, I use Argentium sterling silver exclu-sively; this is still .925 sterling, but its a new alloy that resists tarnishing.

To add your own personal touch to prefabricated S-hook clasps, try using a planishing hammer and a bench block to flatten the center part of the S-hook. Or, slide a bead to the center of the S, and then flatten the hooks.

you may also likeFor more information about Argentium sterling silver, see Road Testing Argentium Sterling (September 2006). If you dont have that issue, you can buy a downloadable PDF of the article at www.artjewelrymag.com/projects.

online extraTo watch a video tutorial on how to use a jump ring maker, visit www.artjewelrymag.com/videos.

which temper?

prefab

doesnt equal dull

you may also likeCheck out our review of a jump ring maker, page 18.

Weave the chain. Open nine jump rings. Use a ring to connect rings a and b, another ring to connect rings b and c, and a third ring to connect rings c and a [3].

Repeat, using a ring to connect the new rings a and b, another ring to connect rings b and c, and another ring to connect rings c and a [4].

Continue adding rings in sets of three until your chain is the desired length.

Taper the chain ends. One of my favorite ways to end this chain is with end caps and an S-hook clasp. To taper the ends from three to two rings, open four rings. Thread a ring through rings a and b at the end of the chain, and close it. Thread another ring through rings b and c, and close it [5]. If desired, thread a ring through the two end rings, and close it; repeat with a second ring. Repeat to taper the other end of the chain.

Add the end caps. Cut a 4-in. (10.2 cm) piece of 18- or 20-gauge (1.0 mm or 0.8 mm) wire. Use roundnose pliers to make a plain loop at one end of the wire. Thread the loop through the two jump rings at the end of your chain, and close the loop. Slide an end cap onto the wire [6], and make a wrapped loop B [7]. Repeat to add an end cap to the opposite end of the chain.

Close the bracelet. Use an S-hook clasp to connect the two wrapped loops.

26 Art Jewel

ry O September

2006

As soon as I hea

rd of the existence of a firesca

le-free sterling silver alloy

that was being made in shee

t form, I couldnt wait to get

my hands on

it and start playing.

Invented in 1996 by Peter Jo

hns, a professor of silversmith

ing at

Englands Middlesex Univers

ity, Argentium Sterling Silve

r, like traditional

sterling silver, is at least 92.5

percent pure silver. But unli

ke traditional

sterling, which is 7.5 percent

copper, Argentium sterling h

as a small amount of german

ium

instead of some of the coppe

r. So how does that change t

hings?

Argentium sterling has other

wonderful qualities beyond

its freedom from firescale. I

ts

highly tarnish resistant, its m

ore malleable and ductile th

an traditional sterling, it can

be

precipitation-hardened using

a kitchen oven or toaster ov

en, and it can be easily fused

and

welded. Argentium sterling f

indings can be fired into met

al clay, and many people who

are

allergic to traditional sterling

silver are able to wear Argen

tium sterling.

Overall, working with Argen

tium sterling isnt much diffe

rent from working with

traditional sterling silver. Bu

t there are some real differen

ces, so its best to go in know

ing

what to expect. The followin

g is a basic guide to working

with Argentium sterling in b

asic

metalworking processes.

reference

metals

thenew

silver

s Working with the new

Argentium

Sterling Silver

is similar to

working with

traditional

sterling, but

dont assume

theyre the

same, or some

key differences

may trip you up.

by Cynthia Eid

Photos by the author u

nless

otherwise noted.

art jewelrymag.

com 27

This guide to Argentium Ster

ling Silver is a further adapta

tion and update of

a technical article that was fi

rst published in SNAG News,

the newsletter of

the Society of North American

Goldsmiths, and later updat

ed for Rio Grande.

Argentium Sterling Silver is

a registered trademark.

Jack Gohn of Lee-

Joyce Designs made

this hand-engraved

cuff bracelet of

Argentium sterling.

53 4 x 11 4 in.

(146 x 32mm).

14www.ArtJewelryMag.com

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Chain Maille Projects