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3/10/2009
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THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, AND WORLD WAR II
C H A P T E R S I X T E E N
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1920 - 1947
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The decade of the twenties ushered in social changes, especially for women who now found it socially acceptable to wear makeup, cut
their hair short, smoke cigarettes, and drink alcohol.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
2C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
With these changes came radical style changes for fashionable young women called “Flappers.”
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3C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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W omen cut their hair short, with the most extreme, “ bobs” being
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4C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
the most extreme “ bobs” being almost identical to those of men. A nd wore rouge, lipstick, and
eyebrow pencil.
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Skirts gradually shortened with the shortest lengths, about 14 to 16 inches from the ground, coming in the second half of the decade.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
5C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Dress Lines were straight, curves were suppressed and when belts
were worn or skirts joined to bodices, at the hip.
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6C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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Undergarments maintained this straight line.
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7C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
An alternative silhouette available to women was the “Robe de Style” that was inspired by wide-skirted Spanish
styles of the early 1600’s and originated by designer Jeanne Lanvin.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
8C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
To see more details about this dress, visit theJeanne Lanvin Dress Page at Antique & Vintage Dress Gallery.
Designer Gabrielle Chanel was influential in developing the simple styles of the period.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
9C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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Typical 1920’s Styles
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10C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Daytime Dress Evening Dress
New fabrics came into use: Rayon and Acetate
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11C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Pants became acceptable for women for sports and leisure time.
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12C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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As women now went swimming, instead of merely “bathing,” swim suits became
more practical and less encumbering.
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13C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Over their short hair, many women wore close-fitting cloche hats.
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14C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Some Typical Footwear
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15C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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Some Important Accessories of the Period
Jewelry Hand Bags
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16C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Stockings
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17C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Tae Smhcd M[kdem Ck[la hf 1929 nlaeked bg mae Gke[m Deikellbhg,
Styles had begun to change, with longer skirts, defined waistlines, and more obvious curves. By the early 30’s, those changed had occurred.
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18C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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As before, undergarments developed to support the new line.
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19C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Among the outstanding designers of the 1930’s was Madeleine Vionnet whose bias cut designs inspired
imitations at all price levels.
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20C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Elsa Schiaparelli, another important designer, was know for her dramatic flair and her use of surrealist motifs.
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21C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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Women participated in sports and in retailing. The concept of sportswear
for leisure time and informal settings began to develop.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
22C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
In the 1930’s, hair lengthened and hat styles varied.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
23C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Some Typical Footwear
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24C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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Some Important Accessories of the Period
Sunglasses
Scarves
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25C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
HandbagsJewelry
Movies and movie stars became a fashion influence.
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26C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Styles gradually evolved until by the end of the decade, skirts were shorter and fuller, and shoulders were square.
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27C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Early 1930’s Late 1930’s
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As before, men’s suits maintained the basic elements (jacket, vest, trousers) that differed only in subtle ways at different time periods. In
the late 1930’s, a full cut called the English Drape Suit is often seen.
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28C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
One of the first styles that originated in the lower income groups and adopted by some ethnic groups was the Zoot Suit.
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29C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Men’s underwear added options such as boxer shorts,
jockey shorts and athletic shirts.
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30C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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The British heir to the throne, the Prince of Wales, was an important influence on men’s styles.
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31C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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For more casual occasions men wore sports jackets and for more formal occasions, tuxedos or dinner jackets.
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32C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Clothing for active sports and clothing for leisure activities were available for men.
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Among the popular garments for outdoors were polo coats and trench coats or warm wool jackets.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
34C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Men’s hair was short. Hats included straw boaters, derbies, and fedoras.
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35C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Examples of Typical Footwear
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Some Popular Accessories For Men
Bow Ties HandkerchiefsNeck Ties
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37C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Cuff LinksWrist Watches
Tie Clips
Clothes, now more suitable for children, often reflected styles for adults.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
38C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Young boys wore knickers. Older boys wore suits like
those of adult men.
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39C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
40C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
When World War II began, it limited supplies of silk. Shoes containing rubber and leather were rationed.
Governmental regulations restricted the amount of fabric used in men’s and women’s garments.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
41C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Click image to rotate dress 360°
Restrictions effectively froze the style lines for the duration of the war.
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42C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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Paris was cut off from America during the war. As a result the fashion press publicized American designers who continued to be an important
factor in fashion even after the war.
Norman Norell
Ch l J
Hattie Carnegie
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43C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Claire McCardell
Pauline TrigereCharles James
For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing
Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htmBata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.htmlBath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.ukhttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.htmlPictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and
accessories. http://www.camrax.comPhiladelphia Museum www.philamuseum.orgMetropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.aspCornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.htmlhttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/1930-1946/1930-1946.html
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
44C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
p // p / / / / / / 9 9 / 9 9Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
Fashion Designershttp://womenshistory.about.com/library/bio/blbio_chanel_coco.htmhttp://www.coololdstuff.com/coco.htmlhttp://www.exclusive-life.de/eng/Articles/Craft/fabrics_leather/Madeleine-Vionnet/Vionnet_eng.htmhttp://www.schiaparelli.com/http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/schiaparelli.htmlhttp://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html (Look up designers such as Adrian,
Chanel, Vionnet, Schiaparelli.)
For Further Study
Wartime Restrictionshttp://home.cfl.rr.com/featherweight/board.htmhttp://www.fabrics.net/joan702.asphttp://www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe40s/life_08.html
Zoot Suitshttp://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7materials/cosgrove.html
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.
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45C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
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Image Credits
Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy www.rumbugger.co.uk
Photo of Flapper, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/crowdweb/pages/flapper.htm
Joan Crawford in Our Dancing Daughters 1928, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/film/index.html
Man seated at piano, surrounded by group of glamorous girls, Washington, D.C., October 1923, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-42063
Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, plate 16
Woman in undergarments, ca. 1921, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection
Photo of c. Winter 1926/27 Numbered Jeanne Lanvin, Paris, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
Photo of Gabrielle Chanel, Courtesy www.museudelperfum.com
L'Art da la Mode, 1927
Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 7
Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 11
Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981
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46C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981
Colorful lounging pajamas c. 1929, Courtesy, Blending Hemingway Company
Woman in Cloche Hat, Courtesy www.southernprints.co.uk
Beige Leather Pumps, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Aqua Marbled Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Vintage Patterned Stockings Item# FD-2319, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
Flapper Stockings Item# FD-4401, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
c. 1920 Stockings Item# FD-3540, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
Deco Diamond Platinum Watch Item# FD-940, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
Art Deco Necklace, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com
Antique 1920's Marcasite Earrings, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com
Image Credits Velvet and Steel Beaded Handbag, circa 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com
Art Deco Steel Beaded Handbag, France, 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com
Wall Street 1929, Courtesy, Bilan du Siècle - C'est arrivé en ce jour
High necks before and after dinner, Vogue, October 1, 1933, pg 51
The triumph of the eggshell in winter woolens, Vogue, August 1, 1931
Merry Widow Revival, Vogue, June 1, 1937
Illustrations of Sportswear, Vogue, November 15, 1937 pg 37
Doris Blumenfeld, c. early 1930s, Courtesy demode.tweedlebop.com
1940's Hairstyle, Courtesy www.hairrific.com
1930's Movie Star Dark Navy Felt Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
c. 1930's New York Creation Black Felt Cutwork Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
c. late 1930's/early 1940's Gray Felt Doll Top Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
47C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
c. 1930's Peck & Peck Wool Checked Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
Brown Satin Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Brown Suede And Leather Oxfords, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Brown Alligator Platforms, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Schiaparelli Festoon Necklace and Pendant Earrings, Courtesy, www.doylenewyork.com
1930's blue w/silver glitter plastic, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
1930's translucent amber/tort plastic frame, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
1940'S Brown Alligator Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Silk Scarf w/ Art Deco/Geometric Pattern, Courtesy, www.easystreetantiques.com
Betty Davis Film Poster, The Girl From 10th Avenue (1935), Courtesy, www.reelclassics.com
Image Credits The Basics of Dark Dress, Vogue, May 1, 1939 pg 103
Man in Grey Suit, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
MAN IN ZOOT-SUIT a. 1943, Courtesy, www.museum.state.il.us
Vee Line Shirts and Shorts Advertisement 1938, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties, As Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 111, Dover 1986
Edward, Prince of Wales, standing with a man wearing a uniform, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0784/n078441.jpg
The Prince of Wales visits TR's grave / [International Film Service Co.], Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recording Sound Division, at Library of Congress Motion Pictures
Sportcoat Advertisement 1931, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 35, Dover 1986
Man in Tuxedo, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
Man in Polo Overcoats, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
Man in Trench coat, "Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
Vintage Ties, Courtesy www.ballyhoovintage.com
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
48C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947
Adjustable Rust & Tan Bow Tie, Courtesy, www.vintagevoola.com
1930's Period Wristwatch, Used by permission through , www.boomertime.com
1930's Vintage Cufflinks, Courtesy, www.isadoras.com
Men's Monogrammed Cotton Handkerchiefs, Courtesy, www.jr-designs.com
1930's Sedan Tie Clip, Courtesy, www.arteauto.com
Children attend Houdini expose of fraudulent mediums, 1925, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-112425 DLC
Photo of Young Men, from the Authors collection.
"Chippers." Women war workers of Marinship Corp., 1942. 86-WWT-85-16, National Archives and Records Administration
Diagram of New L-85 Order Clarifies the Fundamental Changes, Women's Wear Daily, Monday, June 7, 1942
c. 1940's ADRIAN Perfect Gray Flannel Suit, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
New Tweeds, Vogue, December 1942, page 66.