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CHAPTER-4
BUSINESS PROFILE OF LEATHER ARTISANS IN MUMBAI
Introduction: Based on primary data collected, it is observed that leather business has not only
flourished but got stabilized over the years in Mumbai, that toobutonly in selected areas.
It is comprised of a few registered big units and large unorganized small units run at the
individual level with particular type of leather work. The profile of these domestic
artisans is quite different from those of formal type. A lot of changes have come in their
structure which is more informal and has no documentary record. The exact number of
these artisans is also not available with the local or state body’s records. A few numbers
are associated with the bodies like LIGMA and LIDCOM. Over the years the
membership has declined expectedly after the reform period. Through the personal
survey conducted on selected samples, in this chapter the business profile of the artisans
in Mumbai has been explained to understandtheir structure of work, and business profile
in existence in Mumbai.
147
Religion of the artisans
The religion of the leather artisans has been shown in Table and Figure 4.1. In the
selected artisans, more focus is given on the caste workers. The number of Hindu
cobblers and other related communities are 198 (99%) in number selected and only 2 (1
percent) samples belong to the Muslim community. The purpose behind choosing caste
artisans is that these people have been carrying the leather business in the city till the
migration of Muslim, Telugu Mochi samaj in the city. Among Hindu, these workers fall
under weaker section of social strata. They are traditional workers having perfect
knowledge of leather mending and design. Most of the them are engaged in the
production of footwear products and accessories.
Table 4.1Religion of the artisans
Religion Frequency Percent
Hindu 198 99.0
Muslim 2 1.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
148
Figure 4.1 Religion of the artisans
Caste of the Artisans
Caste of the artisans engaged in the leather business is shown in Figure 4.2. During the
survey it was noticed that out of the samples chosen, majority belong to the chambhar
community of Maharashtra, they constitute almost 82 percent of of the total samples.
Following them is the Dhor community, engaged in the manufacturing of leather
products. This caste is actually known for cleaning row leather and engaged in the
tanneries. But after tanneries were closed down, some of them turned to the
manufacturing occupation of leather. They constitute 14 percent of the total samples.
Dhor people are also known as kakkaya in some places. They are the tanner caste and
outside of Hindu rituals like Chambhar. They fall under schedule caste and have been
found in more numbers in Maharasthra, Gujarat, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh. Apart
from these two major castes, Dhorara, Kakkaya, Machigar, Maratha, Mochi, OBC,
Rajasthani Regars castes are found in the leather business in Mumbai in the percent are
0.5 to 2 percent range. Among this the Regar caste people are form the MP, U.P, and
99%
1%
Religion
Hindu
Muslim
149
Rajasthan. They are economically marginal caste have and suffered from social disparity
in the Indian society. Majority of them migrated, have settled in the Chembur slums,
engaging themselves in the leather business. More than 99 percent samples selected for
the study belong to the lower strata of the society who are socially deprived.
Figure 4.2 Caste of artisans
Marital status
The marital status of the artisans is shown in the Table 4.2. It is found that 90.5 percent
are married where as 9.5 percent are reported to be unmarried. The advantage of the
married artisans is that they get the assistance from the family members in their work.
Larger the family the leather work carried is good in numbers what study has shown.
Axis
Titl
e
Chambhar Dhor Kakya Koli Machiga
r Maratha Mochi OBC Rajastan Regar
Percent 82 7.5 0.5 2 0.5 0.5 2 0.5 0.5 3.5
Castes of the Artisans
150
Table 4.2 Marital Status
Marital Status Frequency Percent
Married 181 90.5
Unmarried 19 9.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Numberof Children
The number of Children is shown in the Figure 4.3. The family size of the artisans is not
uniform. 21 percent artisans have more than three children. 27 percent have three
children. 24.5 percent have two children whereas only 19 percent have one child. 8.5
percent artisans do not have any child.
Figure 4.3 Number of Children
Type of Leather work carried
The types of leather work carried by artisans in Mumbai are shown in Table 4.3 and
Figure 4.4 .Leather work is not uniform in Mumbai. Many types of leather work are
8.519
24.5 2721
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
Zero One Two Three More than three
Number of Children
Frequency
Percent
151
carried by the leather artisans according to the practice. Almost 80 percent of the artisans
are engaged in the production of the footwear. Different types of footwear are produced
on large scale in different part of the city. 10 percent artisans produce Footwear along
with bags and purses. Only 5 percent artisans are engaged in the production of leather
garments. Whereas 2 percent artisans produce bags/ purses and the leather accessories.
Only 1 percent artisans produce the combination of footwear with Garments and the
leather accessories.
Table 4.3Typeof Leather work carried
Type of Leather work Frequency Percent
Footwear 160 80.0
Leather Garments 11 5.5
Bags/Purses 4 2.0
Leather Accessories and other articles 4 2.0
Footwear & Leather Garments 1 0.5
Footwear & Bag/Purses 19 9.5
Footwear & Leather accessories 1 0.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
152
Figure 4.4 Type of Leather Work
Brand name of the Business or Product produced
Brand name of the business or leather products produced by the artisans is shown in
Table 4.4 and Figure 4.5. Being unorganized nature of business carried out on a small
scale, 62 percent artisans do not have any brand name assigned to their leather business.
Whereas 38 percent artisans have their identity of the work in the form of some name
given to their leather products or entire unit. It is clear from the table and diagram that
still the awareness is needed to be generated among the domestic artisans to carry their
business with some identity or brand name.
80%
5%
2%
2% -1%10%
1%
Kind of leather work
Footwear
Leather Garments
Bags/Purses
Leather Accessories and other
Footwear & Leather Garments
Footwear & Bag/Purses
Footwear & Leather accessories
153
Table 4.4Brand name of the business or Products produced
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 76 38.0
No 124 62.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.5 Brand name of the Business or Products produced.
Number of Years in the Leather Business
Number of years spent by artisans in the leather business in shown is Table 4.5 and
Figure 4.6. Since years, the leather business is being carried out in Mumbai area. It is the
oldest traditional business where the records are found in the report of 1960 by Bombay
surveys. Among the samples selected, nearly 46.5 percent artisans informed that they
have been doing business since the last 40 years. 9 percent have agreed to that their
business had been set up since last 30 years. Nearly more than half the samples selected
have witnessed the changes that have taken place in the business over the years. 20
38%
62%
Brand Name
Yes
No
154
percent samples express that of their business had been set up between 20 to 30 years.
Whereas 24.5 percent samples express that their business has been in for the between last
10 to 20 years.
Table No. 4.5Number of Years in the Leather Business
Response Frequency Percent 10-20 Years 49 24.5 20-30 Years 40 20.0 30-40 Years 18 9.0
More than 40 Years 93 46.5 Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.6Numbers of Years in the Leather Business
Business of inheritance
The nature of Business inheritance is shown in table 4.6 and figure 4.7. It is understood
from interviews taken that almost 92 percent artisans have been carrying out leather work
as their traditional inherited business. They have been a part of the communities which
are involved in leather business. Only 8 percent of the samples selected revealed that they
did not get this business from the inheritance but they did acquire it over the period of
24.5 20 9
46.5
0
20
40
60
80
100
10-20 Years 20-30 Years 30-40 Years More than 40 Years
Number of years in Business
Frequency
Percent
155
time as means of earning.
Table 4.6Business of Inheritance
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 184 92.0
No 16 8.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.7 Business of Inheritance
Number of Hours spent daily in Leather work
Number of hours spent by the artisans is shown in Table 4.7 and Figure 4.8. It is observed
that to carry out the leather work almost 47.5 artisans spend average 10 to 12 hours daily.
Following by those 32 percent of the artisans who spend 8 to 10 hours to carry out their
work. 14 percent spend 6 to 8 hours and remaining artisans (6.5 percent) spend only an
average of 4 to 6 hours to carry out their business. It is obvious that the more time spent
by the artisans do not have labourers appointed for assisting them in the process.
Yes No
184
16
92
8
Business of Inheritance
Frequency Percent
156
Somewhere family members are involved in helping instead. Majority samples selected
were found spending their hours in blending leather into different type of the products.
That too at home places.
Table No. 4.7Number of hours spent daily
No. of hours Frequency Percent 4-6 Hours 13 6.5 6-8 Hours 28 14.0 8-10 Hours 64 32.0 10-12 Hours 95 47.5
Total 200 100.0 Source: Field survey
Figure 4.8Number of hours spent daily
Business Dependency
Business dependency of the artisans is shown in Table 4.8 and Figure 4.9.Almost 98
percent artisans expressed their independent business entity. They have been carrying out
business withself-finance, self-marketing and self-decision making. Mere 2 percent
artisans expressed their dependency on others. That too is less percent to assure that
almost all the samples have their private independent set up. They do carry it at domestic
level like tiny or cottage or household industries.
4-6 Hours 6-8 Hours 8-10 Hours 10-12 Hours
1328
64
95
6.5 1432
47.5
No. of Hours spent on work
Frequency Percent
157
Table No. 4.8 Business Dependency
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 196 98.0
No 4 2.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.9 Business Dependency
Market Access for the products
Market access for the products of the artisans is shown in Table 4.9 and figure 4.10.Out
of 200 samples selected, 90 percent artisans said yes for the market access for their
leather material and finished products. They are able to produce and sell their products in
various scales suited to their financial and production capacity. Only 10 percent of the
artisans told that they face problems in the market access.
Yes No
196 4
98 2
Business dependency
Frequency Percent
158
Table No. 4.9Market Access for the products
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 180 90.0
No 20 10.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.10Market Access for the products
Selling of leather Products
Selling of the Leather products is shown in Figure 4.11. It is observed in the figure that
almost 44 percent artisans sell their products directly to the shops as they do not have
their own outlets. They are the suppliers of finished footwear and other leather products
to these shops. These shops are in more numbers on the Dharavi ninety foot road areas,
Category 1 Category 2
180
20
90
10
Market Access
Frequency Percent
159
Thakkarbappa colony and other selected areas. Nearly 39.5 artisans said that they sell
their products to the customers directly. It is order taken business. They prefer to produce
and sell as retailers to the customers directly. 2.5 percent artisans expressed that they sell
their products through the contractors whereas 0.5 percent artisans use combined way of
selling their products to the shops and contractors and to the customers directly and
through the contractors respectively. 12.5 percent artisans do sell their products to the
customers as well as through shops supplied.
Figure 4.11Selling of the Leather Products
Order based Leather Business
Order based leather business carried out by artisans is shown in table 4.10 and Figure
4.12. It is found that majority of the work carried on at domestic level in Dharavi, Kurla
and Thakkarbappa colony is of independent business type. Therefore the orders of leather
Direct to Customer
To the shops Through the Contractors
If any
Direct to customer & To the shops
To the shops & Through
the contractors
If any
Direct to customer, To
shops & Through the contractors
If any
7989
5
25
1 1
39.5 44.5
2.512.5
0.5 0.5
Selling of Leather Products
Frequency Percent
160
work are taken by these artisans independently. There is no other channel for it. Nearly
96 percent of the artisans said that they receive order on their own. They do have their
own source of marketing which is more informal and mouth to mouth publicity. They
produce the goods ordered in a required quantity as orders given by a person or firms.
Only 4 percent artisans get regular orders specified.
Table 4.10Order based Leather Business
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 192 96.0
No 8 4.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.12Order based Leather Business
If Leather work is Contractual
The Table 4.11 and Figure 4.13show if artisans carry contractual work if any. Out of 200
hundred artisans selected under the survey, 87.5 percent artisans told that they work on
contracts provided by the firms or big shopkeepers. They prepare a sample of leather
96%
4%
Order based leather busienss
Yes No
161
products they have specialized in or according to the order and samples shown to the
parties. On agreeing on those products a contract of large number of the units is received
by these artisans. It is common practice among maximum artisans to produce a sample
product and pass it among the parties. Thus they get orders in big numbers to produce the
units of that product selected in case of leather purses, bags, shoe pairs, chappals,
Garments and other accessories. Only 12.5 percent artisans expressed that they produce
leather products of their choice and sell in the markets. These are quite well settled
artisans in the business. Unable to carry business on self-orders. These artisans prefer
receiving orders on contractual basis.
Table 4.11 if leather work is contractual?
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 175 87.5
No 25 12.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.13if leather work is contractual?
175
25
87.5
12.5
Yes No
Contractual work if any
Frequency Percent
162
Hiring Labourers for the work
Whether artisans hire any labour is shown in Table 4.12and Figure 4.14. In order to carry
their business. 86.5 percent artisans need to hire labourers under them to work. Having
contractual work accepted contractual work; they need to supply the orders in the time. It
helps them to get more orders. Therefore they need to appoint labourers to hasten their
work. But these labourers are hired in two /three numbers only. Because appointing more
of these labours are not affordable to these artisans. 13.5 percent artisans do not hire any
labour.
Table 4.12Hiring labourers for the work
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 173 86.5
No 27 13.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.14Hiring labourers for the work
86%
14%
0% 0%
Hiring labour
Yes
No
163
Nature of employed Labourers
Nature of employed labour is shown in Table 4.13 and Figure 4.15. Labourers hired for
the leather work belongto different groups. It can be seen in the diagrams that out of the
labourers hired, nearly 49 percent labour belong to the local community artisans who
either do not have their own set up or they do prefer going and working for earnings. 38
percent of the hired labourers are from the non-community based artisans. They are
migrated community based labour. Many of them are from the Northern states that prefer
to work in this industry. Not Being so educated they are ready to work to make up their
earnings. 13 percent artisans do not hire any labour for their work. Instead they carry the
work with the help of their family members.
Table 4.13 Natureof employed Labourers
Nature of Labours Frequency Percent
Local community Artisans 98 49.0
Migrated non-community based labour 76 38.0
Not Applicable 26 13.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
164
Figure 4.15 Nature of employed Labourers
Number of Labourers hired
Number of labourers hired by artisans is shown in table 4.14. It is true that labourers are
needed to be hired to carry leather work by the artisans. But these labourers are not hired
in large numbers. 38 percent artisans do hire only two labourers in average to assist them
in their work. 20 percent artisans hire three labourers average with them.25.5 percent
artisans do hire four labours whereas only 3.5 percent hire more than four labours. 13
percent artisans do not hire any kind of labourers to assist them in the leather business
carried out.
Local community Artisans
Migrated non-community based
labour
Not Applicable
98
76
26
4938
13
Nature of Labourers
Frequency Percent
165
Table 4.14Number of labourers hired?
No. of Labours hired Frequency Percent
Two 76 38.0
Three 40 20.0
Four 51 25.5
More than Four 7 3.5
Not Applicable 26 13.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Reaching Customers
How artisans reach their customers to sell leather products is shown in the Figure 4.16.
To market their products, 53 percent artisans reach their customers through orders taken.
Whereas 33 percent of them use outlets to reach their customers. Rest of the artisans in
different percentage use mixed methods for selling their products along with outlets set
up and orders accepted. They use advertising too to reach to their customers. But the
most common practice of reaching to customers observed among artisan is to produce
and approach with samples to the showrooms. It helps them get regular and bulk orders.
166
Figure 4.16 Reaching Customers
Training Received
Training received by the artisans is shown in Table 4.15 and Figure 4.17. It is observed
from the table that out of 200 artisans, 81.5 are trained in the work they do carry out.
They are experienced artisans in their work. Only 18.5 percent artisans said that they did
not get any kind of training for their work. They are able to carry leather work over the
years due to their practice of work.
Table No. 4.15Trainingreceived
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 163 81.5
No 37 18.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
53
33
0.5 16.5 2 0.5 0.5 2.5 0.5
Reaching Customers
Percent
167
Figure 4.17 Training received
Source of Training
Source of training received by the artisans is shown in Table 4.16 and Figure 4.18.
Artisans were asked if formal training they received for their work or not. Majority of
them answered that they received informal kind of training. They got trained in the
leather work by traditional practices of the business. 78.5 percent artisans received
training from their generations it being the community business. Whereas 4 percent
mentioned formal training received in the training institutions. Nearly 17.5 percent
artisans mentioned of no training received so far either formal or informal nature
Table 4.16 Source of Training
Training source Frequency Percent
Traditional Practice 157 78.5
Training Institutions 8 4.0
Not Applicable 35 17.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
81%
19%
0% 0%
Training Received
Yes No
168
Figure 4.18 Source of Training
Name of the institution if formal training revived
Name of the training institute is shown in Table 4.17 and Figure 4.19. On training
received question only 4 percent artisans answered that they received training in
Charmarkar sansthas. But almost 96 percent artisan showed no response to this question.
It is a surprising fact that when the government has been insisting on training provided to
the artisans under their policies and schemes, 96 percent of artisans are out of its purview.
So it is clear if the business is still being run, it is because of the traditional practices
carried out so far in the business. In the post reform period when there are changes in the
customer tastes and demand for new styles and designs. These artisans are facing
problems of market access, lacking the formal training provided.
0
50
100
150
200
Traditional Practice Training Institutions Not Applicable
157
835
78.5
417.5
Frequency Percent
169
Table 4.17 Name of institution if formal training received
Training Institution Frequency Percent
Charmakar Sanshtha 8.0 4.0
No Response 129 64.5
Not Applicable 63 31.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.19 Name of the institution of formal training
Problem of Labour Access
Problem of Labour Access is shown in Table 4.18 and Figure 4.20. Paid labour
availability in the domestic leather industry is a matter of concern as this segment of the
leather industry is highly unorganized and the labourers are not trained enough to work.
They simply are trained on hiring to work on the leather products. These labourers are the
surplus labour force in the city that chose the work due to the non-availability of jobs.
4%
64%
32%
Training Institute
Charmakar Sanshtha No Response Not Applicable
170
They are more casual and sometimes hard to keep in continuous employment. Nearly 71
percent artisans mentioned that they faced problem of labour access. They do not get
people to work in their domestic set up. Whereas 29 percent of the artisans are able to
manage to hire labourers for the work.
Table 4.18 Problem of labour access
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 142 71.0
No 58 29.0
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.20 Problem of labour access
YesNo
142
58
71
29
Labour AccessFrequency Percent
171
Nature of Technology used for Leather work
Nature of technology used by artisans is shown in Table 4.19 and Figure 4.21. Out of 200
populations selected, 79 percent artisans still carry labour intensive business where they
manually have to mend leather and prepare finished leather products. It obviously
demands very skilled experience from their side. They are not able to use any capital
machine for their work. Only 10 percent artisans told that carry capital intensive leather
work. They are quite well settled artisans with market access and coverage. Remaining
10.5 percent artisans use combination of capital as well as labour intensive leather work.
Table 4.19 Technology used for the leather work
Nature of Technology Frequency Percent
Capital Intensive 21 10.5
Labour Intensive 158 79.0
Capital & Labour Intensive 21 10.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.21 Technology used for Leather work
10%
79%
11%
Nature of Technology
Capital Intensive
Labour Intensive
Capital & Labour Intensive
172
Assistance from the Family members
Assistance from the family members to the artisans is shown in Table 4.20. It is observed
that in carrying out leather work at household level, it is observed that family members
also contribute their labour. 79 percent artisans revealed that they are assisted by their
family members in the leather work. As the labour access is less and it is unaffordable to
pay them regular wages, many artisans prefer to involve their family members in the
leather work. It was observed in the many families of the Dharavi that the housewives
assisted their husbands in applying gum to the leather, cutting and stitching leather after
finishing their household work. So here it should be noted that still the contribution of the
family members is there in the production process that are unpaid and invisible in the
process of working on leather work.
Table 4.20Assistance from the family members
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 159 79.5
No 41 20.5
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Specified assistance by Family members
Specified assistance by family members is shown in Figure 4.22. It was remarkable to
know that the family members involvement is assistance is in various ways. 21 percent
artisans informed that they are assisted by their parents. 11 percent artisans mentioned
that they take help form their wives in the work. About 2 percent artisans involve their
sibling in the work. Nearly 44 percent artisans ask their children to assist them in their
173
work. It is notable that even children are engaged in the domestic business. 22 percent
artisans do not engage anyone from the family but carry work independently.
Figure 4.22Specified assistance by Family members.
Association with any Sangthhan
Association of the artisans with any Sangatthan or Trust is shown in Table 4.21 and
Figure 4.23. Looking into the table it is understood that only 33.5 percent of the self-
employed artisans are engaged with the Leather associations and community groups. 89
percent of the artisans are not associated with any such groups. The reason behind it is
the lack of knowledge of such an institutions or charity trust or either they do not want
willingly to be a part of it but to carry the business independently. It was understood from
the interview that many artisans prefer to carry out their work individually and develop
their business. From the records of the cluster formation in Dharavi by the LIDCOM
clearly mentions that there were more than 800 members registered with them engaged in
the leather work. But the leather cluster could not be formed due to the occurrence of
many socio and economic problems. The membership has come down to a few hundreds.
05
1015202530354045
Mother Father Wife Children Brother Not Applicable
Percent 3 18 11 44 2 22
Axis
Titl
eAssistance specified
174
It is a matter of concern after Economic reforms. Where the industry is showing the
increasing trends in exports, Leather institutions are claiming about training provided to
the people working in leather units, reality is very different when the members express
their non-membership with any such formal or informal groups. Nearly 22 percent of the
artisans even were not able to even tell about such association with any group. It shows
the lack of unity and social formal network among these self-employed artisans.
Table 4.21 Association with any Sangathhan
Response Frequency Percent
Yes 67 33.5
No 89 44.5
Can't tell 44 22
Total 200 100.0
Source: Field survey
Figure 4.23Associations with any Sangathhan
Yes No Can't tell
67
89
44
33.5
44.5
22
Association with Sangathhan
Frequency Percent
175
Conclusion:
The leather work carried out in Mumbai is more informal in nature and the
artisans engaged in it work as self-employed/ own account workers. They either prepare
leather products of their tradition and sell in the market or receive orders from the big
commercial entrepreneurs on some remuneration. The labour problem is observed in
Mumbai today as thisunorganizedsegment of the industry does not guarantee regularity of
the job and other kind of social securities. Family members assist in the home business to
add more units in the production and get profit. The marketing is almost nonprofessional
in case of the leather products produced by these artisans. The labour in this industry is
migrated labour. The structure of this business in not proper and formal in nature.
In next chapter socio-economic conditions of the leather artisans is discussed in
the post reform period.
176
