10Irish Independent

Winter 2010FOOD

Christmas

You could be forgiven for associating cocktails only with summer.

“There is a stigma attached to the word ‘cocktail’ in some ways,” says Micheál Griffiths, mixologist and bartender at the Maryborough Hotel in Cork. Micheál has won awards and represented Ireland in his craft.

“When you say ‘cocktail’ people think of flowery umbrellas and all

that.” But the cocktail’s influences and styles come from everywhere, says Micheál: even the Irish Coffee is a kind of cocktail, and a warming winter drink. “What a cocktail is, is open to interpretation.”

There is, however, a distinct difference between summery and wintery cocktails – in summer we want something refreshing, in winter something warming.

“Cocktails with Cuban influence – like the

at ChristmasAward-winning mixologist Micheál Griffiths gives James Cregan a crash course in winter cocktails

Cocktails

Daiquiri or Mojito – they would be more summery. A Christmassy cocktail would be something like a Brandy Alexander.

“Obviously because it’s cold outside people are ordering drinks with warmer flavours. Hot whiskeys and sidecars are popular at the moment.”

For Micheál, creating the perfect cocktail is “all about balancing flavour”. “And it’s about engaging three senses: sight, smell and taste.”

Ben Murnane talks to wine expert David Whelehan about picking the perfect wine for Christmas

Candy Apple MartiniFinlandia Vodka – 3.5clsFresh red appleGommeFresh half of limeHoney – 0.5cls

GarnishFlamed orange twist and a slice of fresh apple.Muddled, shaken and strained into an iced martini glass.

White StarFinlandia Vodka – 3.5clsFresh wild cherriesGomme – 0.5cls (dash)White cranberry juice – 1clFresh half of lime

GarnishFlamed orange twist and a fresh wild cherry.Muddled, shaken and strained into an iced martini glass.

Brandy AlexanderRemy Martin VSOP Brandy – 3.5clsBrown crème de cacao – 1clFresh cream – 0.5cls GarnishFresh grated nutmeg.Shaken and strained into an iced martini glass.

“The style of wine you pick will be down to the food you’re planning,” says David Whelehan.

“If it’s traditional fare – turkey is a relatively dry meat, so you’re looking for a wine with a good fruit component: the Grenache grape, a New World Shiraz or Syrah, or the tempranillo grape from Spain.

“You can absolutely serve turkey with either red or white wine. With the whites, again, you’d be looking for something with good fruit intensity and good aromatic intensity.”

Of course, people tend to serve several meats during the Christmas meal – turkey, ham, spiced beef. But, says David, “If you stick with that fruitier style of wine, it will cross the whole gamut.”

Other optionsWhat about if you’re skipping the turkey and going for goose? “Goose has a wonderful fat content, so it can take a more robust

A little sparkle

Charles Heidsieck Brut NV, Dunnes Stores, SuperValu and Centra nationwide, and O’Donovans Off-Licence in Cork, €37.99 If you want one of the ‘grande marque’ Champagnes, Charles Heidsieck make a wonderfully complex, intense style that doesn’t get all the attention that Bollinger or some others get. Works wonderfully as an aperitif and will work wonderfully all the way through the meal.

Marks & Spencer Prestige Brut Cava, €11.79This is a classic Cava, made from the traditional Spanish grapes. At this price point it’s a really good value sparkler.

Red & white

Viña Ulmo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Marks & Spencer, €5.99 This is exceptional value. An easy-drinking, fruity wine from Chile with a hint of spice. A great function wine.

style of red. You’d be looking for a wine that’s got good acidity, a good freshness on the palate to cut through the grease of the goose. It’s worthwhile looking at Pinot Noir.

“With something vegetarian like nut loaf, I’d look at the tempranillo grape from Spain; I’d look at the Touriga Nacional grape from Portugal, and I’d consider something like a Dolcetto from northern Italy.

“Another thing is – sparkling wine is often misunderstood. It’s not just for opening the festivities. A Champagne or even a good Cava can work wonderfully the whole way through the meal.”

David advises always trying to sample a wine before you buy.

“All too often, people buy a really expensive Bordeaux because they want to push the boat out, and they pop the cork and just don’t like the style of wine at all. Work with wines you enjoy.”

Protocolo 2008, on promotion at O’Briens Wines, €7.99 This is a fantastic juicy red. It’s the tempranillo grape with a little bit of oak; lovely fruit flavour with notes of vanilla. Definitely will not disappoint, and great value at this price.

Alamos Chardonnay 2009, on promotion at Dunnes Stores, €8A lovely oak Chardonnay from Argentina with great fruit intensity. It’s a delicious wine that works beautifully with Turkey.

Something sweet

Noé, half bottle €14.99This incredibly sweet, intense sherry is made from the Pedro Ximénez grape. You serve it lightly chilled; it’s really like Christmas pudding and raisins all mulched up and it’s just delicious. You can pour it on ice cream as well! It’s something quite special.

Royal Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos, O’Briens Wines, €33.45 Throughout history this has been one of the great sweet wines of the world, a terrific indulgence. It’s got a lovely honeyed character and is lower in alcohol so it’s very easy to enjoy. In my opinion, probably the ultimate sweet wine.

David’s Christmas Selection

The drinks are martini style but if you want to make a long drink just strain into a whiskey tumbler filled with ice.

Micheál’s Christmas Cocktails

Winter wines

Great